Kolkata biryani descends from the Awadhi kitchen of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, who was exiled from Lucknow to Metiabruz in Kolkata in 1856 and brought his cooks with him. The famous potato is said to have entered the pot there, and today it is non-negotiable: Kolkatans will judge a biryani by its aloo as much as by its meat.
Compared with Hyderabadi or Malabar biryanis, the Kolkata style is subtle. There is little chilli, the rice is long-grain and separate, and the aroma comes from mace, nutmeg, kewra water, rose water, saffron and ghee. A boiled egg is tucked inside each serving. Arsalan, Aminia and Royal Indian Hotel are the names locals argue over.
At a glance
| Region | West Bengal |
|---|---|
| Cuisine | Bengali |
| Diet | Non-vegetarian |
| Course | Rice |
| Prep time | 45 minutes |
| Cook time | 75 minutes |
| Total time | 120 minutes |
| Serves | 5 |
| Spice level | Mild |
| Difficulty | Hard |
| Gluten-free | Yes |
| Key ingredients | basmati rice / chicken / potato / egg / yogurt |
Ingredients
For the chicken
- 750 g chicken, cut into 8 large pieces with bone
- 1 cup thick curd
- 1 tbsp ginger paste
- 1 tbsp garlic paste
- 1 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
- 1/2 tsp white pepper powder
- 1/2 tsp mace powder
- 1/4 tsp nutmeg powder
- 1 tsp salt
- 1/2 cup fried onions (birista)
For the rice
- 500 g aged basmati rice, soaked 30 minutes
- 2 bay leaves
- 4 green cardamoms
- 4 cloves
- 1 inch cinnamon
- 1 star anise
- 1 tbsp salt
- Juice of 1/2 lemon
For layering
- 4 medium potatoes, peeled and halved
- 4 boiled eggs, peeled
- 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
- 4 tbsp ghee
- 3 tbsp oil
- 1/2 cup warm milk with a pinch of saffron
- 1 tsp kewra water
- 1 tsp rose water
- 1/2 tsp biryani masala or garam masala
- 1/4 cup fried onions
- 1 tbsp sugar (optional, traditional)
Method
- Marinate the chicken with all the marinade ingredients for at least 2 hours.
- Rub potatoes and eggs with turmeric and salt. Prick the potatoes with a fork and fry both in the oil on medium heat until golden, about 8 minutes for the potatoes and 2 minutes for the eggs. Set aside.
- In the same pan add 2 tbsp ghee, then the chicken with its marinade. Cook on medium-high heat for 5 minutes, then cover and cook on low for 15-20 minutes until the chicken is about 80 percent done and the gravy is thick. Add the fried potatoes for the last 10 minutes.
- Bring 3 litres of water to a rolling boil with the whole spices, salt and lemon juice. Add the drained rice and cook for 5-6 minutes until about 70 percent done – a grain should break with a firm white core. Drain immediately.
- In a heavy pot, spread half the chicken, potatoes and gravy. Layer half the rice over it. Add the remaining chicken, potatoes and eggs, then the rest of the rice.
- Drizzle the saffron milk, kewra water, rose water, remaining ghee and sprinkle the biryani masala, sugar and fried onions over the top.
- Seal the pot with a tight lid and atta dough, or a layer of foil under the lid. Cook on high heat for 3 minutes, then place on a hot tawa and cook on the lowest heat for 25 minutes (dum).
- Turn off the heat and leave sealed for 10 minutes. Open, gently fold from the sides with a flat spoon, and serve each plate with a piece of chicken, a potato and an egg.
Tips
- Prick and pre-fry the potatoes; raw potatoes will not cook through during dum.
- Use a light hand with kewra and rose water – more than a teaspoon each makes the biryani taste soapy.
- Aged basmati absorbs less water and stays separate; new-crop rice tends to break.
Serve with
Chicken chaap or mutton rezala, with a cool raita and sliced onions.