Tag: Braj

  • Rabri

    Rabri is the slow-cooked milk sweet of Varanasi, Mathura and the Braj region, where halwais reduce huge iron kadais of milk over wood fires and gently fan the surface so cream forms in layers. Those layers, or lachhas, are lifted onto the sides of the pan and folded back in at the end, giving rabri its distinctive flaky, lacy texture.

    The taste is pure milk, deepened by long cooking, sweetened lightly and perfumed with cardamom, saffron and sometimes rose water. Rabri is thick but spoonable, with soft shreds of malai throughout. It is served chilled in kulhads, clay cups that add their own earthy aroma. The flavour is gentle and milky.

    It is eaten on its own after a meal, or poured over jalebi, malpua or gulab jamun. It is a festive offering on Janmashtami and Holi in Braj, and a winter-evening treat across Uttar Pradesh. Making it at home takes time but little skill; the trick is a wide pan and patience. Buffalo milk, with its higher fat, gives the thickest rabri and the most generous layers.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineUttar Pradesh
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time5 minutes
    Cook time90 minutes
    Total time95 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsfull-cream milk / sugar / cardamom / saffron

    Ingredients

    • 1.5 litres full-cream milk (buffalo milk is best)
    • 1/3 cup sugar
    • 1/2 tsp green cardamom powder
    • A pinch of saffron soaked in 1 tbsp warm milk
    • 1 tbsp pistachios, slivered
    • 1 tbsp almonds, slivered
    • 1/2 tsp rose water (optional)

    Method

    1. Pour the milk into a wide, heavy kadai and bring to a boil on medium heat, stirring so it does not catch.
    2. Lower to a gentle simmer. Do not stir the surface; let a layer of cream form, 2 to 3 minutes.
    3. With a flat spatula, gently push the cream layer to the side of the kadai so it sticks there. Repeat each time a new layer forms, occasionally fanning the surface to speed up the skin.
    4. Every few minutes, scrape the bottom gently to prevent scorching, without breaking the floating cream.
    5. Continue for 70 to 80 minutes until the milk reduces to about a quarter of its volume and the sides are thick with cream layers.
    6. Add sugar and stir gently until dissolved, about 2 minutes. Scrape the cream from the sides into the milk with the spatula, keeping the layers in pieces.
    7. Stir in cardamom, saffron and rose water, cook 2 more minutes and switch off.
    8. Cool, then chill for at least 3 hours. Serve in kulhads garnished with pistachios and almonds.

    Tips

    • A wide pan gives more surface area for cream layers to form.
    • Add sugar only at the end – added early it prevents good malai formation.
    • If time is short, a little khoya or milk powder thickens rabri faster, though the lachhas will be fewer.

    Serve with

    Chilled in kulhads, or poured over hot jalebi or malpua.

  • Bedmi Puri with Aloo Sabzi

    Bedmi puri is the breakfast of Agra, Mathura and Old Delhi, where halwais fry them by the hundred from early morning and serve them in leaf bowls with a thin, peppery aloo sabzi and sometimes a side of halwa or jalebi. In Braj, the region around Mathura, bedmi aloo is also a staple of temple festivals and weddings.

    The puris are made from wheat flour kneaded with a paste of soaked urad dal, fennel, coriander, ginger and chilli, which makes them crisp, slightly coarse and full of flavour. The aloo sabzi that goes with them is runny and spicy, with tomatoes, crushed potatoes, fennel, kasuri methi and hing, made to be scooped up.

    It is weekend and festival food, especially in winter. A bedmi aloo breakfast is heavy and is often followed by a glass of lassi or a cup of strong chai. The dough can be prepared the night before and kept in the fridge, and the sabzi made while it rests. It is a meal for an unhurried Sunday, eaten slowly with plenty of conversation and tea.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineUttar Pradesh
    DietVegan
    CourseBreakfast
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time40 minutes
    Total time80 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientswhole wheat flour / urad dal / potato / tomato

    Ingredients

    For the bedmi dough

    • 2 cups whole wheat atta
    • 1/4 cup fine sooji
    • 1/2 cup skinless urad dal, soaked 4 hours
    • 1 inch ginger, 2 green chillies
    • 1 tsp saunf, coarsely crushed
    • 1 tsp coriander seeds, crushed
    • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • Water as needed
    • Oil for deep frying

    For the aloo sabzi

    • 5 potatoes, boiled and roughly broken by hand
    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp saunf
    • 1/2 tsp methi seeds
    • 1 inch ginger, grated
    • 2 green chillies, chopped
    • 3 tomatoes, finely chopped
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 1/2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp amchur
    • 1 tsp kasuri methi
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 3 cups hot water
    • Salt to taste
    • Chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Drain the urad dal and grind with ginger and green chillies to a coarse paste without water.
    2. Mix atta, sooji, saunf, coriander, chilli powder, hing, salt and oil. Add the dal paste and knead with a little water into a stiff dough. Rest 20 minutes.
    3. For the sabzi, heat oil in a pot on medium. Add hing, cumin, saunf and methi seeds; when the methi turns golden, add ginger and green chillies.
    4. Add tomatoes, turmeric, coriander powder, chilli powder and salt. Cook 6 to 8 minutes until the tomatoes are completely mushy.
    5. Add the broken potatoes and mash a few against the pan. Pour in hot water, bring to a boil and simmer 12 to 15 minutes until the gravy thickens slightly but stays runny.
    6. Stir in amchur, crushed kasuri methi and garam masala. Garnish with coriander.
    7. Divide the dough into 20 balls and roll each into a 10 cm puri, slightly thicker than a regular puri.
    8. Fry in hot oil, pressing gently so they puff, for about 1 minute per side until golden brown and crisp. Serve hot with the sabzi.

    Tips

    • Keep the dough stiff; soft dough makes oily puris.
    • The sabzi should be thin, so the puri can be dipped. Add hot water if it thickens on standing.
    • Halwais add a little sooji to the dough for extra crispness – do not skip it.

    Serve with

    Pickle, a glass of lassi, or jalebi for a full halwai breakfast.