Tag: Cooling

  • Dahi Bhalla

    Dahi bhalla, the North Indian name for dahi vada, is a dish of festivals and summer afternoons. In Delhi it is sold in large trays at chaat shops, the bhallas swimming in curd, and at home it is a fixture of Holi, Diwali and family functions. It has ancient roots; dishes of lentil fritters in curd appear in early Indian texts.

    The bhallas are made from soaked urad dal ground to a light, airy batter, fried and then soaked in water so they become soft and sponge-like. Squeezed and submerged in sweetened, lightly salted curd, they turn melt-in-the-mouth. Tamarind chutney, green chutney, roasted cumin and red chilli add contrast. Everything is served well chilled.

    It is served cold, as a snack or as part of a festive meal, and is especially welcome on hot days. Bhallas can be fried a day ahead and soaked shortly before serving. A well-beaten batter is the secret to soft bhallas, and it is worth taking the time to whisk it by hand. The finished dish keeps well for a day in the fridge, though the toppings are best added just before serving.

    At a glance

    RegionDelhi
    CuisineDelhi street food
    DietVegetarian
    CourseStreet food
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsurad dal / curd / tamarind chutney / cumin

    Ingredients

    For the bhallas

    • 1 cup skinless urad dal, soaked 5 to 6 hours
    • 1/2 inch ginger
    • 1 green chilli
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • A pinch of hing
    • 1 tbsp chopped raisins and cashews (optional)
    • Oil for deep frying

    For the curd

    • 3 cups thick curd, chilled
    • 3 tbsp powdered sugar
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp black salt
    • 1/4 cup chilled milk

    To serve

    • 1/2 cup tamarind-date chutney
    • 1/4 cup green chutney
    • Roasted cumin powder
    • Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • Chaat masala
    • Chopped coriander and pomegranate seeds

    Method

    1. Drain the urad dal well and grind with ginger and green chilli using as little water as possible, 2 to 3 tbsp, to a smooth, thick batter.
    2. Add salt and hing and beat the batter vigorously with your hand in one direction for 5 minutes until it turns light and fluffy. A small drop should float in water.
    3. Stir in the raisins and cashews. Heat oil on medium. Drop spoonfuls of batter, or shape round bhallas with wet hands, into the oil.
    4. Fry on medium heat for 5 to 6 minutes, turning, until light golden and cooked through. Too hot and they stay raw inside.
    5. Transfer the hot bhallas straight into a bowl of lukewarm water with a pinch of salt. Soak 20 to 30 minutes until they are soft and swollen.
    6. Whisk the curd with sugar, salt, black salt and milk until smooth and creamy.
    7. Press each bhalla gently between your palms to squeeze out the water, place on a serving dish and pour the curd over to cover completely. Chill 30 minutes.
    8. Before serving, drizzle with both chutneys and sprinkle cumin, chilli powder, chaat masala, coriander and pomegranate.

    Tips

    • Beating the batter well is what makes the bhallas soft; no soda is needed.
    • Do not let the batter turn runny while grinding – add water a spoon at a time.
    • Fried, unsoaked bhallas freeze well; thaw and soak in warm water before using.

    Serve with

    Served chilled on its own, or alongside papdi chaat and aloo tikki.

  • Sweet Punjabi Lassi

    Lassi is the drink of the Punjab countryside, once churned in tall clay matkas with a wooden madhani and drunk by the brass glass after a morning in the fields. Amritsar's lassi shops serve it in steel tumblers so thick a spoon nearly stands up, crowned with a layer of fresh malai and sometimes a dab of white butter.

    Sweet lassi is creamy, cold and gently tangy, with sugar balancing the sourness of the curd. Full-fat curd is non-negotiable; it gives the drink its body. A pinch of cardamom or a few drops of rose water is common, but the purest versions keep it to curd, sugar, ice and malai, churned until frothy.

    It is drunk with heavy breakfasts like chole bhature or aloo paratha, or on its own on a hot afternoon as a cooling drink. In summer, a glass of lassi after lunch is followed, inevitably, by an afternoon nap. At Amritsar stalls it is churned to order in big steel pots and handed over with the malai piled high.

    At a glance

    RegionPunjab
    CuisinePunjabi
    DietVegetarian
    CourseBeverage
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time0 minutes
    Total time10 minutes
    Serves2
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientscurd / sugar / malai

    Ingredients

    • 2 cups thick full-fat curd, chilled
    • 4 tbsp sugar (or to taste)
    • 1/2 cup chilled milk or cold water
    • 1/4 tsp green cardamom powder (optional)
    • A few drops of rose water (optional)
    • 6 to 8 ice cubes
    • 4 tbsp fresh malai (cream skimmed from boiled milk)
    • A few chopped pistachios to garnish

    Method

    1. Make sure the curd is well chilled and not too sour; a day-old homemade curd is ideal.
    2. Put the curd and sugar in a deep jug or bowl. Churn with a wooden mathani, or a hand whisk, for 2 to 3 minutes until the sugar dissolves and the curd turns smooth and frothy.
    3. Add the milk or water, cardamom and rose water, and churn another minute. The lassi should be thick but pourable.
    4. Add the ice cubes and churn briefly once more so the lassi gets very cold and develops a foamy top.
    5. Taste and adjust sugar.
    6. Pour into tall glasses. Spoon 2 tbsp of malai on top of each and sprinkle with pistachios. Serve immediately.

    Tips

    • A blender works but over-blending makes the lassi thin; pulse in short bursts.
    • For a quick malai substitute, lightly whip a little fresh cream.
    • Hanging the curd for 30 minutes first gives an extra-thick, Amritsari-style lassi.

    Serve with

    Aloo paratha, chole bhature or a hot summer afternoon.

  • Pakhala Bhata

    Pakhala bhata is cooked rice soaked in water, sometimes left overnight to ferment lightly, and it is the food Odisha turns to in the blistering summer. The state even celebrates Pakhala Dibasa on 20 March. Farm workers ate it for centuries because it keeps the body hydrated and cool, and it is offered at the Jagannath temple too.

    There are several styles: jeera pakhala with roasted cumin, dahi pakhala with curd and a tempering, and basi pakhala that has fermented overnight and turned pleasantly sour. The rice itself is bland, so it is eaten with strongly flavoured sides – fried fish, badi chura (crushed lentil dumplings with onion and mustard oil), aloo bharta and saga bhaja.

    At a glance

    RegionOdisha
    CuisineOdia
    DietVegetarian
    CourseRice
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time5 minutes
    Total time15 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientscooked rice / curd / curry leaves / ginger

    Ingredients

    For the rice

    • 2 cups cooked rice, cooled
    • 3 cups water, at room temperature or chilled
    • 1/2 cup plain curd, whisked
    • 1 tsp grated ginger
    • 1 green chilli, finely chopped
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp chopped coriander
    • A few mint leaves (optional)

    For the tempering

    • 1 tsp mustard oil
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 dry red chilli
    • 8-10 curry leaves

    Method

    1. For basi pakhala, put the cooked rice in a clay or steel pot, cover with water and leave overnight at room temperature. For instant pakhala, simply soak the cooled rice in water for 1-2 hours.
    2. Gently break up any lumps of rice with your fingers so the grains float loosely in the water.
    3. Whisk the curd with salt, ginger and green chilli and stir it into the rice and water.
    4. Heat the mustard oil in a small pan until it smokes, then lower the heat. Add mustard seeds and let them pop, then cumin, red chilli and curry leaves. Fry for 10 seconds.
    5. Pour the tempering over the rice and stir. Add coriander and torn mint leaves.
    6. Rest for 10 minutes so the flavours mingle, then serve in bowls with plenty of the water.

    Tips

    • Overnight fermentation in hot weather can go too sour; in peak summer 6-8 hours is enough.
    • Use a starchy local rice rather than basmati – the grains soften and give the water body.
    • Serve with a squeeze of lime and raw onion if you skip the curd.

    Serve with

    Fried fish or badi chura, aloo bharta and a slice of raw onion.

  • Curd Rice

    No Tamil meal is complete without thayir sadam at the end. After the heat of sambar and rasam, curd rice settles the stomach and cools the body, which matters in a state where summer temperatures stay high for months. It is also served at temples, packed for journeys, and given to children and anyone with an upset stomach.

    Good curd rice is creamy and loose, never stiff. The rice is cooked soft and mashed while warm, then mixed with fresh curd and a little milk so that it does not turn too sour as it sits. The tempering adds crunch and a gentle heat, and grated carrot, cucumber, grapes or pomegranate are common additions in homes and restaurants.

    At a glance

    RegionTamil Nadu
    CuisineTamil
    DietVegetarian
    CourseRice
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time30 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / curd / milk / ginger / curry leaves

    Ingredients

    For the rice

    • 1 cup raw ponni or sona masoori rice
    • 3.5 cups water
    • 1.5 cups fresh thick curd
    • 1/2 cup boiled and cooled milk
    • 1 tsp salt, or to taste
    • 1 small carrot, grated
    • 2 tbsp pomegranate arils (optional)

    For the tempering

    • 1 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp urad dal
    • 1 inch ginger, finely chopped
    • 1-2 green chillies, finely chopped
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • pinch of asafoetida
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Wash the rice and pressure cook with 3.5 cups water for 4-5 whistles on medium heat so it is very soft. Let the pressure drop naturally.
    2. While still warm, mash the rice well with a ladle until it is creamy, with only a few whole grains left. Spread it out to cool until just lukewarm.
    3. Add the milk first and mix; this stops the curd from turning sour quickly. Then add the curd and salt and stir until smooth and loose. Add a few spoons of water if it feels thick.
    4. Heat oil in a small pan on medium heat, add mustard seeds and let them splutter. Add urad dal and fry until light golden.
    5. Add ginger, green chillies, curry leaves and asafoetida and fry for 20-30 seconds.
    6. Pour the tempering over the rice, add the grated carrot and coriander and mix well.
    7. Top with pomegranate if using. Serve at room temperature or chill for 30 minutes on a hot day.

    Tips

    • Never mix curd into hot rice; it splits and turns grainy.
    • Curd rice thickens as it rests, so keep it looser than you want to eat it, especially for lunchboxes.
    • For temple style, add a few chopped cashews to the tempering and a little cream instead of milk.

    Serve with

    Mango or lime pickle, mor milagai (sun-dried curd chillies) or a spoon of vatha kuzhambu.