RAG Demo

Tag: Festive

  • Chana Madra

    Madra is a cornerstone of Himachali dham, the traditional festive meal served on leaf plates at weddings and temple fairs in Chamba, Kangra and Mandi. It is cooked by botis, hereditary Brahmin cooks, in large brass vessels over wood fires, and the dham menu would be incomplete without it. Cooking it is a matter of pride.

    The dish is defined by yogurt slowly cooked in plenty of ghee with whole spices: cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, bay leaf and sometimes a pinch of nutmeg. There is no onion, garlic or tomato. The gravy is pale, creamy and mildly tangy, coating soft chickpeas, and the aroma of ghee and cardamom fills the kitchen. Kidney beans or a mix of vegetables can be used instead of chana.

    It is eaten with steamed rice as part of the dham, alongside dishes like rajmah, kadhi and meetha bhat. At home it is made for festivals and special lunches. It is rich, so a small helping is enough. The key is slow, patient cooking of the curd in ghee, stirring constantly so it does not split. Leftovers keep well for a day in the fridge and can be loosened with a splash of warm water when reheated.

    At a glance

    RegionHimachal Pradesh
    CuisineHimachali
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time45 minutes
    Total time60 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschickpeas / yogurt / ghee / cardamom

    Ingredients

    • 1 cup kabuli chana, soaked overnight
    • 1 1/2 cups thick curd
    • 1 tbsp besan
    • 4 tbsp ghee
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 4 green cardamom, 1 black cardamom, 4 cloves, 1 small cinnamon stick, 2 bay leaves
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp black pepper powder
    • 1/4 tsp green cardamom powder
    • A pinch of nutmeg
    • 1 tbsp chopped raisins (optional)
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the chana with 3 cups water and salt for 1 whistle on high and 15 minutes on low until soft but holding shape. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water.
    2. Whisk the curd with besan, turmeric, coriander powder and chilli powder until completely smooth.
    3. Heat ghee in a heavy kadai on medium. Add hing, cumin, cardamoms, cloves, cinnamon and bay leaves and let them sizzle 30 seconds.
    4. Add the drained chana and fry in the ghee for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring gently, until lightly coated and fragrant.
    5. Lower the heat to the minimum. Pour in the curd mixture slowly, stirring constantly in one direction.
    6. Keep stirring on low for 8 to 10 minutes until the curd comes to a boil and thickens without splitting.
    7. Add the reserved chana water a little at a time to reach a medium-thick gravy. Simmer 10 to 12 minutes until ghee shows on the surface.
    8. Finish with black pepper, cardamom powder, nutmeg and raisins. Rest 5 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Besan stabilises the curd; constant stirring until it boils does the rest.
    • Do not skimp on ghee – it is central to the flavour of madra.
    • Try rajma madra or a mixed-vegetable madra with the same method.

    Serve with

    Steamed rice, as part of a Himachali dham.

  • Rogan Josh

    Rogan josh is the best-known dish of the Kashmiri wazwan and of Kashmiri Pandit home cooking. Rogan refers to the fat or red oil, and josh to heat or intensity. The Persian-influenced dish took two directions in the valley: Muslim cooks use onions, garlic and maval (cockscomb flower) for colour, while Pandit kitchens skip onion and garlic entirely and rely on asafoetida, yogurt and spice.

    This Pandit version gets its brilliant red from Kashmiri chillies, which are mild and fragrant, and its distinctive character from fennel powder and sonth (dry ginger), the two pillars of Kashmiri spicing. Mutton is browned in mustard oil, simmered in whisked yogurt, and cooked until tender with a thin layer of red oil floating on top.

    It is served on festive days like Shivratri (Herath) and at family feasts, always with plain steamed rice. A good rogan josh is never thick or creamy; the gravy should be thin and intensely flavoured. In Pandit homes it is cooked in large quantities for Herath and eaten over several days. The flavour deepens overnight, so it is a good dish to make ahead. Kashmiri households also serve it alongside haak and a simple radish chutney to cut through the richness of the meat.

    At a glance

    RegionJammu and Kashmir
    CuisineKashmiri
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time90 minutes
    Total time105 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / yogurt / Kashmiri red chilli / fennel powder / dry ginger

    Ingredients

    • 750 g bone-in mutton (shoulder and leg), 5 cm pieces
    • 5 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1/4 tsp hing (asafoetida), dissolved in 2 tbsp water
    • 4 green cardamom, 2 black cardamom, 4 cloves, 1 cinnamon stick, 2 bay leaves
    • 1 cup thick curd, whisked smooth
    • 3 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder mixed with 3 tbsp water
    • 2 tsp saunf (fennel) powder
    • 1 tsp sonth (dry ginger) powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 1 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 cups hot water

    Method

    1. Heat mustard oil in a heavy pot until it smokes, then let it cool for 30 seconds and set the heat to medium.
    2. Add the whole spices and let them sizzle for 20 seconds. Add the mutton and salt and fry on medium-high for 10 to 12 minutes, turning, until the meat is browned and the juices have dried.
    3. Add the hing water; it will splutter. Stir for a minute.
    4. Add the Kashmiri chilli paste and stir-fry 2 minutes until the oil turns deep red.
    5. Lower the heat. Add the whisked curd a few spoons at a time, stirring constantly, so it does not curdle. Cook 8 to 10 minutes until the curd is absorbed and oil separates.
    6. Add fennel powder, dry ginger and turmeric and stir 1 minute. Pour in the hot water and bring to a boil.
    7. Cover and simmer on low for 60 to 70 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the mutton is very tender and the gravy has reduced to a thin, red sauce with oil on top. (Or pressure cook 4 to 5 whistles.)
    8. Sprinkle garam masala, rest 10 minutes and serve.

    Tips

    • Kashmiri chillies give colour without much heat; do not substitute regular chilli powder one to one.
    • Whisk the curd until completely smooth and add it slowly on low heat.
    • Bone-in meat is essential for body in the gravy, since there is no onion base.

    Serve with

    Plain steamed rice.

  • Kashmiri Dum Aloo

    Dum aloo is one of the most loved vegetarian dishes of Kashmir, served at Pandit weddings and festivals and eaten through the cold winters. Kashmiri cooking traditionally uses no tomatoes and, in Pandit kitchens, no onion or garlic, so the colour comes from Kashmiri chillies and the depth from yogurt, fennel and dry ginger.

    Small potatoes are boiled, pricked all over and deep fried until a crust forms, then cooked slowly in a red, yogurt-based gravy until they soak it up. The potatoes look fiery but taste aromatic rather than very hot, with a warm, slightly sweet fennel flavour and a sheen of red oil on the surface.

    It is eaten with plain rice or with roti, often alongside other Kashmiri dishes like haak (collard greens) and nadru yakhni. It is the vegetarian star of a Kashmiri feast. The potatoes can be boiled and fried a few hours ahead, leaving only the short simmer before serving. Choose small potatoes of even size so that they cook evenly and absorb the gravy at the same rate. A spoon of the red oil from the top makes a perfect drizzle over rice.

    At a glance

    RegionJammu and Kashmir
    CuisineKashmiri
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time40 minutes
    Total time60 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbaby potatoes / yogurt / Kashmiri red chilli / fennel powder

    Ingredients

    • 500 g baby potatoes, similar size
    • Mustard oil for deep frying
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 2 green cardamom, 2 cloves, 1 small cinnamon stick, 1 black cardamom
    • 2 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 3/4 cup thick curd, whisked
    • 1 1/2 tsp saunf powder
    • 1 tsp sonth (dry ginger) powder
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 1 cup water
    • 1 tsp salt

    Method

    1. Boil the potatoes in salted water for 8 to 10 minutes until just tender. Peel while warm and prick each one all over with a fork or toothpick.
    2. Heat mustard oil in a kadai until it smokes, then lower to medium. Deep fry the potatoes for 6 to 8 minutes until golden and slightly crusty. Drain.
    3. Remove all but 3 tbsp oil from the kadai. On medium heat, add hing and the whole spices and let them sizzle for 20 seconds.
    4. Take the pan off the heat. Mix the chilli powder with 2 tbsp water and add it, then return to low heat and stir 30 seconds until the oil turns red.
    5. Add the curd gradually, stirring constantly on low heat, and cook for 4 to 5 minutes until it thickens and loses its raw smell.
    6. Add fennel powder, dry ginger, turmeric, salt and water. Bring to a simmer.
    7. Add the fried potatoes, cover and cook on low (dum) for 15 to 20 minutes, until the potatoes have absorbed the gravy and red oil floats on top.
    8. Sprinkle garam masala and serve hot.

    Tips

    • Pricking the potatoes lets the gravy seep in; do not skip it.
    • Adding chilli powder off the heat keeps it from burning and keeps the colour bright.
    • Some families add a pinch of ratan jot to the oil for an even deeper red.

    Serve with

    Plain steamed rice or phulkas.

  • Malai Kofta

    Malai kofta is a vegetarian take on the meat koftas of Mughlai cooking, developed in the kitchens of Awadh and later popularised by North Indian restaurants. The name refers to cream, both in the gravy and, in many old recipes, in the kofta mixture itself, which makes the dumplings exceptionally soft.

    The koftas are made from grated paneer and boiled potato, bound with a little cornflour and stuffed with chopped cashews and raisins before being fried golden. They should be crisp outside and soft enough inside to break with a spoon. The gravy is a mild, silky blend of tomatoes, onions and cashews, finished with cream and a touch of sugar.

    It is a special-occasion dish for weddings, Diwali and dinner parties. To keep the koftas from turning soggy, the gravy is poured over them just before serving rather than simmered together. The koftas can be fried a day ahead and the gravy kept in the fridge, so the final assembly takes only minutes. Serve it with plain naan or a light peas pulao, since the dish itself is already very rich.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineMughlai
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time40 minutes
    Total time70 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspaneer / potato / cashew / cream / tomato

    Ingredients

    For the koftas

    • 200 g paneer, finely grated
    • 2 medium potatoes, boiled, cooled and grated
    • 2 tbsp cornflour, plus extra for coating
    • 1 green chilli, finely chopped
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1/4 tsp garam masala
    • 1 tbsp chopped cashews
    • 1 tbsp raisins
    • Oil for deep frying

    For the gravy

    • 2 tbsp butter
    • 1 tbsp oil
    • 1 bay leaf, 3 green cardamom, 3 cloves
    • 1 large onion, chopped
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 3 tomatoes, chopped
    • 15 cashews, soaked
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1/2 tsp kasuri methi
    • 1/4 cup fresh cream
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Mix paneer, potato, cornflour, green chilli, salt and garam masala and knead lightly into a smooth, crack-free dough. Divide into 12 portions.
    2. Flatten each portion, place a few pieces of cashew and a raisin in the centre, close and roll into a smooth ball or oval. Roll lightly in cornflour.
    3. Heat oil to medium-hot, about 170 C. Fry one test kofta first; if it breaks, add a little more cornflour to the mixture. Fry 3 to 4 at a time, turning gently, for 3 to 4 minutes until evenly golden. Drain on paper.
    4. For the gravy, heat butter and oil on medium, add the whole spices, then onion. Cook 4 minutes until soft and translucent.
    5. Add ginger-garlic paste for a minute, then tomatoes, cashews and a splash of water. Cover and cook 10 minutes until very soft. Cool and blend smooth, then strain.
    6. Return the puree to the pan with chilli powder, coriander powder, salt and 3/4 cup water. Simmer 10 minutes on low until creamy and glossy.
    7. Add sugar, garam masala and crushed kasuri methi, then stir in the cream and heat through.
    8. Arrange the koftas in a serving dish and pour the hot gravy over just before serving. Garnish with a swirl of cream.

    Tips

    • Squeeze excess moisture from the paneer and use potatoes boiled a few hours ahead; wet mixture causes koftas to split in oil.
    • Do not overcrowd the kadai – the oil temperature drops and koftas absorb oil.
    • Koftas can be fried up to a day ahead and reheated in a warm oven.

    Serve with

    Butter naan, kulcha or peas pulao.

  • Shahi Paneer

    Shahi means royal, and shahi paneer belongs to the Mughlai tradition of Awadh and Delhi, where court cooks favoured rich, nut-thickened gravies perfumed with cardamom, mace and flower waters. The vegetarian version became a staple of North Indian weddings, where it often sits beside dal makhani on the buffet. It still holds a place of honour on festive menus.

    Compared with paneer butter masala, it is paler, nuttier and more aromatic. Onions are boiled or gently cooked without browning, blended with cashews and melon seeds, then simmered with curd, cream and whole spices. The taste is mild, slightly sweet and creamy, with a floral finish from kewra or rose water and a pinch of saffron.

    It is a celebration dish for Diwali dinners, family functions and guests, served with naan, sheermal or a fragrant pulao. A small portion goes a long way because it is rich. Because the gravy is mild and nutty, it also balances a spicier dish such as kadai paneer or chole on the same table. The onion-cashew paste can be prepared a day ahead and refrigerated, leaving only a short simmer before serving.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineMughlai
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspaneer / cashew / onion / curd / cream

    Ingredients

    For the white paste

    • 2 medium onions, roughly chopped
    • 15 cashews
    • 1 tbsp magaz (melon seeds), optional
    • 2 green chillies
    • 1 inch ginger
    • 4 garlic cloves
    • 1 cup water

    For the gravy

    • 300 g paneer, cubed
    • 3 tbsp ghee
    • 1 bay leaf, 4 green cardamom, 4 cloves, 1 small cinnamon stick
    • 1/2 cup thick curd, whisked
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/4 tsp green cardamom powder
    • A pinch of mace powder
    • A pinch of saffron soaked in 2 tbsp warm milk
    • 1/4 cup fresh cream
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 3 to 4 drops kewra water
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Simmer onions, cashews, melon seeds, green chillies, ginger and garlic in 1 cup water for 10 minutes until the onions are soft and translucent. Cool and blend to a fine, smooth paste.
    2. Heat ghee in a heavy pan on medium-low. Add bay leaf, cardamom, cloves and cinnamon and let them sizzle for 30 seconds.
    3. Add the onion-cashew paste and cook on low, stirring constantly, for 8 to 10 minutes until it thickens and ghee starts to separate. Do not let it brown.
    4. Take the pan off the heat and stir in the whisked curd, so it does not split. Return to low heat and cook 4 to 5 minutes.
    5. Add chilli powder, coriander powder, salt and sugar with 1/2 cup water. Simmer 5 minutes.
    6. Add the paneer, saffron milk, cardamom and mace powders. Simmer 2 to 3 minutes.
    7. Stir in the cream and kewra water, heat through without boiling, and serve garnished with a few slivered almonds or pistachios.

    Tips

    • Keep the heat low throughout; browning the onion paste turns the gravy beige and changes the flavour.
    • Whisk the curd until completely smooth and add it off the heat to prevent curdling.
    • Kewra is strong – a few drops is plenty.

    Serve with

    Butter naan, sheermal or saffron pulao.

  • Chole Bhature

    Chole bhature is the breakfast of Punjabi weekends and the street food of Delhi, where stalls in Paharganj and Kamla Nagar have served it for generations. The combination travelled with Punjabi families after 1947 and quickly became a staple of North Indian food culture, sold from dawn by vendors who fry bhature to order.

    The chole are dark brown, sour and spicy, cooked with a bag of tea leaves or dried amla for colour and spiced with roasted anardana, amchur and a generous hand of chole masala. The bhature are large, puffed and chewy-soft inside, slightly tangy from yogurt-fermented dough, with crisp edges that tear apart easily.

    It is heavy food meant for a lazy late morning or a festive lunch. A plate usually comes with sliced onions, pickled green chillies, a wedge of lemon and often a glass of sweet or salted lassi, after which most people need a nap. At home the dough is usually set the night before, so the whole family can sit down to hot bhature by late morning.

    At a glance

    RegionPunjab
    CuisinePunjabi
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time60 minutes
    Total time90 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientschickpeas / maida / yogurt / onion / tomato

    Ingredients

    For the chole

    • 1 1/2 cups kabuli chana, soaked overnight
    • 2 black tea bags or 1 tbsp loose tea tied in muslin
    • 2 dried amla pieces (optional)
    • 1 bay leaf, 2 black cardamom
    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 2 onions, finely chopped
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 2 tomatoes, pureed
    • 2 tbsp chole masala
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp anardana powder
    • 1/2 tsp amchur
    • Salt to taste
    • 1 inch ginger, julienned, and coriander to garnish

    For the bhature

    • 2 cups maida
    • 2 tbsp fine sooji (semolina)
    • 1/2 cup sour curd
    • 1/2 tsp baking soda
    • 1/2 tsp baking powder
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp oil, plus oil for deep frying
    • Warm water as needed

    Method

    1. Make the bhatura dough first: mix maida, sooji, sugar, salt, baking soda and baking powder. Add curd and 2 tbsp oil and rub in, then knead with warm water to a soft, slightly sticky dough. Coat with oil, cover and rest 2 to 3 hours in a warm place.
    2. Drain the chana and pressure cook with 4 cups water, salt, tea bags, amla, bay leaf and black cardamom for 1 whistle on high, then 15 minutes on low. The chana should be very soft and dark. Discard the tea bags.
    3. Heat oil in a kadai on medium, add cumin, then onions. Fry 10 to 12 minutes, stirring, until deep brown – this colour drives the look of the chole.
    4. Add ginger-garlic paste and green chillies for a minute, then the tomato puree, chole masala, chilli powder and anardana. Cook 8 to 10 minutes until oil separates.
    5. Add the chana with its cooking water, mash a few chickpeas, and simmer uncovered on low for 15 to 20 minutes until the gravy is thick and clings to the chana. Stir in amchur and garnish with ginger julienne and coriander.
    6. For the bhature, heat oil in a deep kadai to about 190 C – a pinch of dough should rise immediately with vigorous bubbles.
    7. Divide the dough into 8 balls. Oil the rolling surface and roll each into an oval about 5 mm thick; avoid flour, which burns in the oil.
    8. Slide one bhatura into the oil and gently press it down with a slotted spoon so it puffs fully, about 20 seconds. Flip and fry until light golden on both sides. Drain and serve immediately.

    Tips

    • If the oil is not hot enough, bhature absorb oil and stay flat; if too hot, they brown before puffing.
    • Rested dough should look slightly risen with a few bubbles; overnight in the fridge also works.
    • The chole improve after resting for an hour, so cook them first.

    Serve with

    Sliced onions, pickled green chillies, lemon wedges and a tall glass of lassi.

  • Bharli Vangi

    Bharli vangi, literally stuffed brinjal, is a Maharashtrian classic made for weddings, festivals and Sunday lunches. Small round purple or green-striped brinjals are slit and filled with a nutty, sweet-sour masala of roasted peanuts, sesame, dry coconut, jaggery, tamarind and goda masala, then cooked slowly in oil until they collapse.

    Goda masala, the dark, aromatic spice blend of Maharashtra with stone flower and dagad phool, is what gives the dish its character. The brinjals turn creamy inside, while the stuffing that falls out thickens the small amount of gravy into a rich coating. The balance of sweet jaggery, sour tamarind and chilli is typical of Desh cooking around Pune and Satara.

    It is served with jowar or bajra bhakri, or with chapati and varan bhaat in a festive meal. In Vidarbha and Khandesh, a spicier version with more chilli and garlic is common. Leftovers taste even better the next day, once the brinjals have soaked up all the masala, so many cooks make it a few hours ahead.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMaharashtrian
    DietVegan
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientssmall brinjal / peanuts / sesame seeds / goda masala

    Ingredients

    For the stuffing

    • 1/4 cup roasted peanuts
    • 2 tbsp sesame seeds
    • 1/4 cup dry coconut, grated
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 6 garlic cloves
    • 2 tbsp goda masala
    • 1 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tbsp grated jaggery
    • 1 tsp tamarind paste
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    For cooking

    • 8-10 small round brinjals (about 400 g)
    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 8 curry leaves
    • 1 small onion, finely chopped (optional)
    • 3/4 cup hot water

    Method

    1. Dry roast the sesame seeds on low heat for 1-2 minutes until they pop and turn golden. Remove, then roast the coconut for 2-3 minutes until light brown, and the coriander and cumin seeds for 1 minute.
    2. Grind the peanuts, sesame, coconut, coriander, cumin and garlic to a coarse powder. Mix with goda masala, chilli powder, turmeric, jaggery, tamarind, salt and coriander, adding 1-2 tbsp water to make a moist, crumbly paste.
    3. Wash the brinjals, keep the stems and make two deep cuts in a cross from the bottom, stopping just short of the stem. Soak in salted water for 10 minutes and drain.
    4. Stuff each brinjal generously with the masala, pressing it into the cuts. Reserve the leftover masala.
    5. Heat oil in a wide heavy pan on medium. Crackle mustard seeds, add asafoetida, curry leaves and onion and cook for 3 minutes until soft.
    6. Arrange the brinjals in one layer and fry for 4-5 minutes, turning gently, until the skins are glossy and slightly wrinkled.
    7. Mix the leftover masala with the hot water and pour around the brinjals. Cover and cook on low for 15-18 minutes, turning once halfway, until a knife slides through easily and the gravy thickens and leaves oil at the edges.

    Tips

    • Choose small, tender brinjals that feel light and have shiny skin; heavy ones are seedy.
    • Do not stir with a spoon; turn the brinjals with tongs or by shaking the pan so they stay whole.
    • If you do not have goda masala, garam masala works but the flavour will be less authentically Maharashtrian.

    Serve with

    Jowar bhakri, thecha and a bowl of varan bhaat.

  • Khandvi

    Khandvi, also called patuli or suralichi vadi in Maharashtra, is the most delicate of Gujarati farsan. Gram flour and sour buttermilk are cooked together into a glossy paste, spread paper-thin on a counter or the back of a thali, cut into strips and rolled. Done well, the rolls are soft enough to collapse on the tongue.

    The flavour is mild and tangy from the buttermilk, with a little ginger and green chilli, and the tempering of mustard seeds, sesame and curry leaves adds crunch and aroma. Coconut and coriander on top bring freshness. It is never heavy, which is why it appears at weddings and festive meals alongside richer sweets.

    Khandvi has a reputation for being tricky, and the difficulty lies in judging when the batter is cooked. Undercooked, it will not set; overcooked, it turns lumpy and refuses to spread. The plate test in step five takes the guesswork away. Once you have the knack, a whole batch takes under half an hour from bowl to plate.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time30 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbesan / buttermilk / sesame seeds / coconut

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1/2 cup (50 g) besan
    • 1/2 cup sour curd whisked with 1 cup water (1 1/2 cups buttermilk)
    • 1 tsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • A pinch of asafoetida

    For the tempering

    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp white sesame seeds
    • 8 curry leaves
    • 1 green chilli, finely chopped
    • 2 tbsp grated fresh coconut
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Lightly grease the back of two large steel thalis or a clean kitchen counter, and keep a spatula ready.
    2. Whisk the besan, buttermilk, ginger-chilli paste, turmeric, salt and asafoetida in a heavy non-stick pan until completely smooth with no lumps.
    3. Place the pan on medium-low heat and stir continuously with a whisk. After 4-5 minutes it will start thickening; switch to a spatula and keep stirring, scraping the sides.
    4. Continue for another 6-8 minutes. The mixture will turn thick, glossy and leave the sides of the pan as one mass.
    5. Test: spread a spoonful thinly on a greased plate and wait 30 seconds. If it peels and rolls cleanly, it is ready. If it sticks, cook 1-2 minutes more and test again.
    6. Working fast while hot, pour a portion onto the greased surface and spread it thin and even with the spatula in long strokes. Repeat with the rest.
    7. Let it set for 5 minutes. Cut into strips 2 inches wide and roll each strip tightly from one end. Arrange on a plate seam side down.
    8. Heat oil, crackle mustard seeds, add sesame, curry leaves and chilli for 20 seconds. Pour over the rolls and garnish with coconut and coriander.

    Tips

    • Use a 1:3 ratio of besan to buttermilk by volume; this is the proportion that sets reliably.
    • Spreading must be done the moment it comes off the heat. As it cools it thickens and tears.
    • Pressure-cooker method: cook the batter in a bowl for 3 whistles, then whisk smooth and spread.

    Serve with

    Eaten as is, or with a thin green chutney as part of a farsan plate.

  • Sel Roti

    Sel roti is the festive bread of Nepali-speaking communities in Sikkim, Darjeeling and Nepal, made in large quantities for Tihar and Dashain and for weddings. Families gather early in the morning to make them, and they are shared with neighbours and relatives and kept for days as a snack. Many households still keep the batter recipe by feel rather than measure.

    Rice soaked overnight is ground with sugar, ghee and mashed banana into a thick batter, then poured into hot oil in a large ring by hand. The roti puffs and browns, crisp at the edges and soft, spongy and chewy within, faintly sweet with the aroma of ghee and cardamom. It is eaten with tea, with aloo dum or with yogurt.

    At a glance

    RegionSikkim
    CuisineSikkimese
    DietVegetarian
    CourseBread
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time60 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / sugar / ghee / banana

    Ingredients

    • 2 cups raw rice (sona masoori or local rice), soaked overnight
    • 1/2 cup sugar
    • 1 ripe banana, mashed
    • 3 tbsp ghee, melted
    • 1/2 tsp green cardamom powder
    • 1/2 cup milk or water, as needed
    • A pinch of baking soda (optional)
    • Oil for deep frying

    Method

    1. Drain the soaked rice well and spread it on a cloth for 15 minutes to remove excess water.
    2. Grind the rice with sugar and banana, adding milk a little at a time, to a fine, thick batter that flows slowly like thick pancake batter. It should not feel gritty when rubbed between fingers.
    3. Stir in the melted ghee and cardamom. Cover and rest for 1-2 hours at room temperature. Add the baking soda just before frying if using.
    4. Heat the oil in a deep kadhai on medium heat until a drop of batter rises immediately with steady bubbles.
    5. Take a handful of batter in your fist, or fill a squeeze bottle, and pour it into the oil in a large ring about 12 cm across, closing the circle where you started.
    6. Fry for about 1 minute until the underside is golden, then flip with a long stick or skewer and fry another minute until both sides are reddish-golden.
    7. Lift out with the skewer through the centre and drain on a rack. Fry the rest, stirring the batter between batches.

    Tips

    • If the ring breaks up in the oil, the batter is too thin – add a spoon of rice flour.
    • Practise the ring shape on a plate with a squeeze bottle before trying it in the oil.
    • Keep the oil at a steady medium; too hot and the outside browns while the inside stays raw.

    Serve with

    Milky tea, aloo dum or thick yogurt.

  • Chingri Malai Curry

    Chingri malai curry is the Bengali dish of choice for a son-in-law on jamai sasthi or for any guest worth impressing. The 'malai' refers to coconut cream rather than dairy, and some food historians link the name to Malay traders who brought coconut-based cooking to the eastern coast. Golda chingri, the big freshwater scampi with blue-orange heads, are the traditional prawn.

    The curry is mild, rich and faintly sweet. The prawn heads are left on because the fat inside them colours and flavours the gravy, and whole garam masala in ghee gives the warm aroma Bengalis expect. Unlike southern coconut curries it uses no curry leaves or tamarind; the balance is between sweetness, gentle heat from green chillies and the richness of coconut milk.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsprawns / coconut milk / onion / ghee

    Ingredients

    For the prawns

    • 8 large golda prawns or 500 g tiger prawns, shelled, deveined, heads and tails on
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp mustard oil

    For the gravy

    • 1 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1 tbsp ghee
    • 2 bay leaves
    • 3 green cardamoms, lightly crushed
    • 3 cloves
    • 1 inch cinnamon stick
    • 1 large onion, ground to a paste
    • 1 tsp ginger paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 1 1/2 cups thick coconut milk
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1/4 tsp garam masala powder
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Rub the cleaned prawns with turmeric and salt and keep aside for 10 minutes.
    2. Heat 2 tbsp mustard oil in a kadhai until smoking, then lower to medium. Fry the prawns for 1 minute per side until they just turn pink and curl. Remove; they will finish cooking in the gravy.
    3. In the same pan add the remaining mustard oil and ghee. Add bay leaves, cardamom, cloves and cinnamon and let them sizzle for 20 seconds.
    4. Add the onion paste and cook on medium heat for 6-8 minutes, stirring, until the raw smell is gone and it turns light golden.
    5. Add ginger paste, turmeric and chilli powder with a splash of water. Cook for 2 minutes until the oil starts separating.
    6. Lower the heat and pour in the coconut milk, stirring continuously so it does not split. Add salt, sugar and the slit green chillies and simmer gently for 4-5 minutes.
    7. Return the prawns to the pan. Simmer on low heat for 4-5 minutes, spooning gravy over them, until the prawns are cooked through and the gravy coats the back of a spoon.
    8. Sprinkle garam masala and add a final teaspoon of ghee. Cover and rest for 5 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Keep the heads on and press them gently while cooking – the orange fat inside is what gives the gravy its colour.
    • Never boil hard once the coconut milk is in, or it will curdle and turn grainy.
    • Overcooked prawns turn rubbery; take them off the heat as soon as they are opaque in the centre.

    Serve with

    Plain steamed rice or ghee bhaat, with a slice of lime.