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Tag: Gujarat

  • Patra ni Machhi

    Patra ni machhi is a celebratory Parsi dish of fish steamed in banana leaves, served at weddings, navjotes and other festive occasions. Fillets of pomfret are coated thickly with a green chutney of fresh coconut, coriander, mint, green chillies and lime, then wrapped in banana leaf parcels and steamed. It is a Parsi classic.

    The flavour is fresh, bright and herby, with sweetness from coconut and a sharp edge of lime and chilli. Steaming keeps the fish moist and tender, while the banana leaf adds a delicate fragrance. Unwrapping the parcel at the table is part of the pleasure. It feels light and elegant on the plate.

    It is served as part of a lagan nu bhonu, the Parsi wedding feast, often eaten on banana leaves. At home, it makes an impressive yet simple dish for guests. The chutney can be made a day ahead, and the parcels assembled in the morning and steamed just before serving, which takes the pressure off.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineParsi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspomfret / coconut / coriander / banana leaf

    Ingredients

    For the fish

    • 2 medium pomfrets, cut into 8 fillets or thick slices
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tbsp lime juice

    For the green chutney

    • 1 cup freshly grated coconut
    • 1 cup chopped coriander
    • 1/4 cup mint leaves
    • 4 green chillies
    • 6 garlic cloves
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp lime juice

    For wrapping

    • 4 banana leaves, cut into 8 squares
    • Kitchen string

    Method

    1. Rub the fish with salt, turmeric and lime juice and set aside for 15 minutes.
    2. Grind all the chutney ingredients to a thick, smooth paste with very little water.
    3. Soften the banana leaves by passing them over a flame for a few seconds until glossy.
    4. Coat each fish piece generously with chutney on both sides.
    5. Place each piece in the centre of a banana leaf square, fold the sides over to make a parcel, and tie with string.
    6. Steam the parcels in a steamer on medium-high for 15-20 minutes until the fish is cooked through and flakes easily.
    7. Serve the parcels hot, letting each person unwrap their own.

    Tips

    • Make the chutney thick so it stays on the fish while steaming.
    • If banana leaves are not available, use parchment paper.
    • Pomfret is traditional, but any firm white fish works.

    Serve with

    Steamed rice or as part of a Parsi lagan nu bhonu feast.

  • Gujarati Kadhi

    Gujarati kadhi is the light, pale yellow counterpart of the thicker, pakora-laden Punjabi version. It is made from sour curd whisked with a small amount of besan, sweetened with jaggery or sugar and tempered in ghee with whole spices. Most Gujarati thalis include it beside dal-bhaat or khichdi, and many people drink it straight from the katori.

    The taste is sweet first, then gently sour, with warmth from ginger and green chilli and a fragrance from cloves, cinnamon, methi seeds and curry leaves. It should be smooth and pourable, about the thickness of single cream. Because the besan quantity is low, it must be stirred continuously until it boils or the curd will split.

    Kadhi-khichdi is the comfort dinner of Gujarat, eaten when someone is unwell or when the cook wants a simple meal. It is also served with rotli and shaak on weekdays and alongside undhiyu in winter. Some families add a few pieces of bhindi or pakodi to make it more substantial, but the plain version is the everyday standard and the one most Gujaratis grew up drinking.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time5 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time25 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientscurd / besan / jaggery / curry leaves

    Ingredients

    For the kadhi

    • 1 cup sour curd
    • 3 tbsp besan
    • 3 cups water
    • 1 tsp grated ginger
    • 1-2 green chillies, slit
    • 2 tbsp grated jaggery or sugar
    • 1 tsp salt

    For the tempering

    • 1 tbsp ghee
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/4 tsp methi seeds
    • 3 cloves
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 1 dried red chilli
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 10 curry leaves
    • 1 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Whisk the curd and besan together in a deep pan until there are no lumps at all. Gradually whisk in the water to a smooth, thin mixture.
    2. Add ginger, green chillies, jaggery and salt and place on medium heat.
    3. Stir continuously as it heats, scraping the bottom. This is the critical stage; after 6-8 minutes it will come to a boil. Do not stop stirring before it boils or the curd will curdle.
    4. Once it boils, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 8-10 minutes, stirring now and then, until slightly thickened and the raw besan smell is gone.
    5. In a small pan, heat ghee on medium. Add mustard seeds and let them pop, then cumin, methi seeds, cloves, cinnamon and red chilli for 20 seconds. Add asafoetida and curry leaves.
    6. Pour the tempering into the kadhi, stir, and simmer for 2 more minutes. Taste and adjust sugar and salt; it should be clearly sweet-sour. Garnish with coriander.

    Tips

    • Curd that is 2-3 days old gives the right sourness. With fresh curd, add a squeeze of lemon at the end, off the heat.
    • Kadhi thickens as it cools; thin it with a little hot water before reheating.
    • Use hing that is certified gluten-free if you need the dish strictly gluten-free, as many brands contain wheat flour.

    Serve with

    Plain khichdi or steamed rice, with papad and pickle.

  • Handvo

    Handvo is a savoury cake from Gujarat made with a fermented batter of rice and mixed lentils, folded with grated bottle gourd and baked until the outside turns into a crunchy, sesame-studded crust. Traditionally it was cooked in a special handva cooker, an aluminium pot with a central chimney that sat over a sand base, but a heavy pan on the stove or an ordinary oven works well.

    The inside is soft, moist and slightly tangy from fermentation, flecked with vegetables, while the top and bottom are dark golden and crisp. A little sugar balances the sourness, and the tempering of mustard, sesame and curry leaves poured into the pan becomes part of the crust. Edges darken almost to brown, and that is how it should look.

    Handvo is eaten for breakfast, tea or a light dinner, cut into wedges and served with green chutney and tea. Leftovers are excellent the next day, toasted on a tawa, which makes it a sensible weekend dish to cook in a large quantity. Vegetables can be changed with the season: grated cabbage, corn or methi all work well alongside the lauki.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time40 minutes
    Total time65 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / toor dal / bottle gourd / sesame seeds

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1 cup rice
    • 1/4 cup toor dal
    • 2 tbsp chana dal
    • 2 tbsp urad dal
    • 2 tbsp moong dal
    • 1/2 cup sour curd
    • 1 cup grated bottle gourd (lauki), lightly squeezed
    • 1/4 cup grated carrot
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 1 tbsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1 1/4 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp baking soda or 1 tsp Eno

    For the tempering

    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tbsp white sesame seeds
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 10 curry leaves
    • 1 dried red chilli

    Method

    1. Wash the rice and dals and soak for 5-6 hours. Drain and grind with the curd and minimal water to a coarse, thick batter. Cover and ferment overnight in a warm place.
    2. Mix the bottle gourd, carrot, coriander, ginger-chilli paste, turmeric, chilli powder, sugar and salt into the fermented batter. It should be thick and drop off the spoon in clumps.
    3. Just before cooking, sprinkle the soda over the batter, add 1 tbsp water on it and fold in well.
    4. Heat the oil in a heavy 8-9 inch non-stick or cast iron pan on medium. Add mustard seeds, and when they pop add sesame, ajwain, asafoetida, curry leaves and red chilli. Let the sesame turn light gold, about 30 seconds.
    5. Pour the batter over the tempering and spread it evenly about 1 inch thick. Cover and cook on low heat for 15-18 minutes, until the top looks set and the bottom is deep golden and crisp.
    6. Slide the handvo onto a plate, flip it back into the pan and cook the other side, uncovered, on low for 10-12 minutes until crisp. A skewer should come out clean.
    7. Rest for 5 minutes, then cut into wedges. Oven method: pour batter into a greased tin, top with tempering and bake at 180 C for 40-45 minutes.

    Tips

    • Squeeze only some water out of the lauki; the rest keeps the inside moist.
    • The low flame is essential. On high the crust burns before the thick centre cooks.
    • Ready-made handvo flour from Gujarati stores can replace the soaked grains; mix with curd and ferment 6-8 hours.

    Serve with

    Green coriander chutney and a cup of masala chai.

  • Sev Tameta nu Shaak

    Sev tameta nu shaak is a dhaba and home favourite from Kathiawad and Saurashtra, a region where fresh green vegetables were once scarce in the dry months. Tomatoes and the crunchy besan sev that every Gujarati kitchen keeps in a tin were combined into a curry that could be cooked in fifteen minutes. Highway dhabas around Rajkot serve it in large bowls with bajra rotla.

    The base is a thick, tangy tomato gravy with garlic, red chilli and a touch of jaggery that rounds off the acidity. The sev goes in at the very last moment, so part of it stays crunchy while the rest softens and thickens the gravy. Thick ratlami or gathiya sev holds up better than fine nylon sev.

    It is eaten with rotli, thepla or bajra rotla, often with raw onion, buttermilk and a green chilli on the side. Because it relies on pantry items, it is a frequent weeknight dish when the vegetable basket is low. Restaurants in Gujarat often finish it with a spoon of butter and a sprinkle of extra sev on top for crunch.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegan
    CourseMain course
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time15 minutes
    Total time25 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientstomato / besan sev / garlic / jaggery

    Ingredients

    • 4 large ripe tomatoes (about 400 g), chopped
    • 1 cup thick sev (ratlami or gathiya sev)
    • 2 tbsp groundnut oil
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 6 garlic cloves, crushed
    • 1 tsp grated ginger
    • 1 green chilli, chopped
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1 1/2 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander-cumin powder
    • 1 tbsp grated jaggery
    • 3/4 tsp salt
    • 1/2 cup water
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Heat the oil in a kadhai on medium. Add mustard seeds and let them crackle, then cumin and asafoetida.
    2. Add garlic, ginger and green chilli and saute for 1 minute until the garlic smells cooked and turns pale gold.
    3. Add the tomatoes with turmeric and salt. Cover and cook on medium for 5-6 minutes until they collapse completely.
    4. Mash the tomatoes with the back of the spoon. Add chilli powder, coriander-cumin powder and jaggery and cook uncovered for 2-3 minutes until oil starts to separate at the edges.
    5. Pour in the water, bring to a boil and simmer for 2 minutes. The gravy should be fairly loose, since the sev will absorb a lot.
    6. Turn off the heat. Just before serving, stir in the sev and coriander and serve within a minute or two.

    Tips

    • Add the sev at the table if you are not eating immediately; it turns mushy within ten minutes.
    • Use fully ripe, deep red tomatoes. With pale tomatoes add a spoon more jaggery and a little tomato puree.
    • Groundnut oil gives the authentic Kathiawadi flavour.

    Serve with

    Bajra rotla or rotli, chaas, sliced onion and green chillies.

  • Dal Dhokli

    Dal dhokli is Gujarat's one-pot comfort meal, made by cooking strips of spiced wheat dough directly in thin toor dal. Rajasthan has a similar dish called dal ki dulhan, and Maharashtra makes varan phal, but the Gujarati version is distinctly sweet-sour, with jaggery, kokum or lemon, and peanuts that soften in the dal. Sunday lunch and rainy evenings are its usual occasions.

    The dhokli are rolled from wheat flour seasoned with ajwain, turmeric and chilli, cut into diamonds and dropped into the bubbling dal. They swell, turn tender and release a little starch that thickens the broth. The dal itself is light, fragrant with cloves, cinnamon and curry leaves, and finished with a spoon of ghee.

    It needs nothing else, though most families serve it with a squeeze of lemon, chopped onion and papad. The dish thickens a lot as it stands, so serve it hot and freshly made. Adding a handful of chopped peanuts, a few cashews or drumstick pieces is common in some homes, and leftovers are reheated with a generous splash of hot water.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientstoor dal / whole wheat flour / peanuts / jaggery

    Ingredients

    For the dal

    • 3/4 cup toor dal, washed
    • 3 cups water, plus 2 cups more later
    • 1/4 cup raw peanuts
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tomato, chopped
    • 1 tsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 1 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 2 tbsp grated jaggery
    • 3-4 kokum petals or 1 1/2 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 1/2 tsp salt

    For the dhokli

    • 1 cup (120 g) whole wheat flour
    • 2 tbsp besan
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/4 tsp ajwain
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp oil
    • Water to knead

    For the tempering

    • 2 tbsp ghee
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp methi seeds
    • 3 cloves
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 2 dried red chillies
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 10 curry leaves
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the toor dal and peanuts with 3 cups water and turmeric for 4-5 whistles on medium heat until the dal is very soft. Let the pressure drop naturally.
    2. Meanwhile, mix all dhokli ingredients and knead into a firm, smooth dough, slightly stiffer than chapati dough. Rest for 10 minutes.
    3. Whisk the cooked dal smooth, leaving the peanuts whole. Add 2 cups water, tomato, ginger-chilli paste, chilli powder, jaggery, kokum and salt. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes.
    4. Divide the dough into 3 balls and roll each into a thin round about 8 inches wide. Cut into 1 1/2 inch diamonds with a knife.
    5. With the dal at a rolling boil on medium-high, drop the dhokli in a few at a time, stirring gently so they do not stick together.
    6. Lower the heat to medium and simmer for 12-15 minutes, stirring now and then, until the dhokli are cooked through and no longer taste of raw flour when bitten. Add hot water if it gets too thick.
    7. Heat ghee in a small pan, crackle mustard seeds, then add methi seeds, cloves, cinnamon, red chillies, asafoetida and curry leaves. Pour over the dal dhokli, garnish with coriander and serve hot.

    Tips

    • Keep the dal boiling when adding the dhokli; if it is merely warm, the pieces turn gummy and clump.
    • Roll the dough thin. Thick dhokli stay doughy in the centre.
    • The dish keeps thickening; thin it with boiling water before serving leftovers.

    Serve with

    A squeeze of lemon, chopped onion, roasted papad and a spoon of ghee.

  • Khatta Dhokla

    Khatta dhokla is the original dhokla of Gujarat, older and plainer than the yellow besan khaman that outsiders usually picture. It is made from rice and a little urad or chana dal, ground coarse with sour curd and left to ferment overnight. The name means sour dhokla, and that gentle tang from fermentation is the whole point.

    The texture is soft, slightly grainy and moist, closer to a thick idli than to a sponge cake. The pieces are pale white, dusted with crushed black pepper or red chilli on top before steaming, and finished with oil tempered with mustard and sesame seeds. There is no sugar syrup poured over, which keeps the flavour savoury and clean.

    Gujarati homes make it for breakfast, as a tea-time snack, or as part of a Sunday farsan spread. It is often eaten with a drizzle of raw groundnut oil and a spoon of garlic chutney, a combination common in Kathiawad. Leftover pieces are tossed in a pan with tadka the next day.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time45 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / urad dal / curd / ginger

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1 cup rice (regular or idli rice)
    • 1/4 cup urad dal
    • 2 tbsp chana dal
    • 1/2 cup sour curd
    • About 1/2 cup water
    • 1 tbsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp oil
    • 1/2 tsp Eno fruit salt or 1/4 tsp baking soda

    For topping and tadka

    • 1/2 tsp crushed black pepper
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp white sesame seeds
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 8-10 curry leaves
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Wash the rice and dals together and soak in plenty of water for 5-6 hours.
    2. Drain and grind with the sour curd and just enough water to a slightly coarse, thick batter, like fine semolina. Transfer to a large bowl, cover and ferment in a warm place for 8-10 hours, until bubbly and pleasantly sour.
    3. Set up a steamer with 2 inches of water on high heat. Grease a 7-8 inch thali or cake tin with oil.
    4. Stir the ginger-chilli paste, salt and 1 tbsp oil into the batter. Just before steaming, add Eno with a splash of water on top of it and fold gently in one direction until the batter turns frothy.
    5. Pour into the greased thali to about 1/2 inch deep. Sprinkle crushed pepper over the surface.
    6. Steam on high for 12-15 minutes until a knife inserted in the centre comes out clean. Rest for 5 minutes, then cut into squares or diamonds.
    7. Heat 2 tbsp oil, add mustard seeds and let them pop, then add sesame, asafoetida and curry leaves. Pour evenly over the dhokla and garnish with coriander.

    Tips

    • In winter, ferment in an oven with just the light on, or add the salt before fermenting to speed it up.
    • Do not add Eno until the steamer is boiling; it loses its lift within a couple of minutes.
    • The batter should be thicker than idli batter; thin batter gives flat, dense dhokla.

    Serve with

    Garlic-red chilli chutney or green chutney, with raw groundnut oil drizzled on top.

  • Khaman

    Khaman is the bright yellow, sponge-soft gram flour cake that most people outside Gujarat call dhokla. In Ahmedabad and Surat the distinction is clear: dhokla is fermented rice batter, khaman is besan raised with citric acid and soda. Farsan shops sell it by weight every morning, along with nylon khaman, an even lighter version.

    Good khaman is airy and moist, with an open crumb that drinks up the tempering. That final pour of water, sugar, lemon and tempered mustard seeds is what makes it sweet, sour and juicy rather than dry. It should spring back when pressed and leave the plate slightly wet. Lemon and sugar should both be clearly present.

    It is eaten at breakfast, packed in tiffins and served to guests at any hour, usually with a sweet-hot green chutney and fried green chillies. Because it takes so little time, it is a common answer when visitors arrive unannounced in a Gujarati home. Leftover pieces stay soft for a day if kept covered at room temperature, and they are often packed for school lunch boxes.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegan
    CourseSnack
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time35 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbesan / lemon / sugar / mustard seeds

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1 1/2 cups (150 g) fine besan
    • 1 tbsp semolina (optional, for structure)
    • 1 tbsp sugar
    • 1 tsp citric acid or 2 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 tsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 3/4 tsp salt
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tbsp oil
    • About 3/4 cup water
    • 1 1/2 tsp Eno fruit salt

    For the tempering

    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp sesame seeds
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 10 curry leaves
    • 1/2 cup water
    • 2 tbsp sugar
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 2 tbsp grated fresh coconut and chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Put 2 inches of water in a steamer or large pan with a stand and bring it to a rolling boil on high heat. Grease an 8-inch tin.
    2. Sift the besan into a bowl. Add semolina, sugar, citric acid, ginger-chilli paste, salt, turmeric and oil. Whisk in water gradually to a smooth batter that flows like pancake batter, then whisk for 2 minutes more.
    3. Add Eno, pour 1 tsp water over it and whisk briskly in one direction for 10 seconds. The batter will double and turn pale. Pour immediately into the tin.
    4. Steam covered on high for 15-18 minutes without opening the lid for the first 12. A skewer in the centre should come out clean.
    5. Rest the khaman for 5 minutes, then run a knife round the edge and cut into squares while still in the tin.
    6. For the tempering, heat oil, crackle mustard seeds, add sesame, asafoetida, chillies and curry leaves for 20 seconds. Carefully add the water and sugar and boil for 1 minute until the sugar dissolves. Turn off and add lemon juice.
    7. Spoon the hot tempering evenly over the warm khaman so it soaks in. Garnish with coconut and coriander.

    Tips

    • Old besan or a batter left standing after adding Eno gives dense khaman. Work quickly once the Eno goes in.
    • If the top turns reddish, there is too much soda for the acid; add a little more lemon next time.
    • Pour the tempering while the khaman is still warm so it absorbs fully.

    Serve with

    Green chutney, fried salted green chillies and a cup of tea.

  • Khandvi

    Khandvi, also called patuli or suralichi vadi in Maharashtra, is the most delicate of Gujarati farsan. Gram flour and sour buttermilk are cooked together into a glossy paste, spread paper-thin on a counter or the back of a thali, cut into strips and rolled. Done well, the rolls are soft enough to collapse on the tongue.

    The flavour is mild and tangy from the buttermilk, with a little ginger and green chilli, and the tempering of mustard seeds, sesame and curry leaves adds crunch and aroma. Coconut and coriander on top bring freshness. It is never heavy, which is why it appears at weddings and festive meals alongside richer sweets.

    Khandvi has a reputation for being tricky, and the difficulty lies in judging when the batter is cooked. Undercooked, it will not set; overcooked, it turns lumpy and refuses to spread. The plate test in step five takes the guesswork away. Once you have the knack, a whole batch takes under half an hour from bowl to plate.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time30 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbesan / buttermilk / sesame seeds / coconut

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1/2 cup (50 g) besan
    • 1/2 cup sour curd whisked with 1 cup water (1 1/2 cups buttermilk)
    • 1 tsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • A pinch of asafoetida

    For the tempering

    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp white sesame seeds
    • 8 curry leaves
    • 1 green chilli, finely chopped
    • 2 tbsp grated fresh coconut
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Lightly grease the back of two large steel thalis or a clean kitchen counter, and keep a spatula ready.
    2. Whisk the besan, buttermilk, ginger-chilli paste, turmeric, salt and asafoetida in a heavy non-stick pan until completely smooth with no lumps.
    3. Place the pan on medium-low heat and stir continuously with a whisk. After 4-5 minutes it will start thickening; switch to a spatula and keep stirring, scraping the sides.
    4. Continue for another 6-8 minutes. The mixture will turn thick, glossy and leave the sides of the pan as one mass.
    5. Test: spread a spoonful thinly on a greased plate and wait 30 seconds. If it peels and rolls cleanly, it is ready. If it sticks, cook 1-2 minutes more and test again.
    6. Working fast while hot, pour a portion onto the greased surface and spread it thin and even with the spatula in long strokes. Repeat with the rest.
    7. Let it set for 5 minutes. Cut into strips 2 inches wide and roll each strip tightly from one end. Arrange on a plate seam side down.
    8. Heat oil, crackle mustard seeds, add sesame, curry leaves and chilli for 20 seconds. Pour over the rolls and garnish with coconut and coriander.

    Tips

    • Use a 1:3 ratio of besan to buttermilk by volume; this is the proportion that sets reliably.
    • Spreading must be done the moment it comes off the heat. As it cools it thickens and tears.
    • Pressure-cooker method: cook the batter in a bowl for 3 whistles, then whisk smooth and spread.

    Serve with

    Eaten as is, or with a thin green chutney as part of a farsan plate.

  • Methi Thepla

    Every Gujarati family that travels carries theplas. These thin, spiced flatbreads made with whole wheat flour and fresh fenugreek stay soft for three to four days without refrigeration, so they fill tiffins on train journeys, foreign trips and pilgrimages. The curd and oil in the dough are what keep them supple long after cooking.

    Methi gives a pleasant bitterness that is balanced by a little jaggery or sugar, turmeric, chilli and sesame seeds. Some cooks add a spoon of besan for a nuttier taste. The thepla is rolled thinner than a paratha and cooked with a light brush of oil, so it is soft and flexible rather than flaky.

    At home it is a breakfast or dinner bread, eaten with chhundo (grated sweet mango pickle), plain curd or a dry potato shaak. Many families make theplas in bulk on Sunday and use them through the week. Dudhi, spinach or leftover dal can replace the methi, and each variation has its loyal fans within the same household.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseBread
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientswhole wheat flour / fenugreek leaves / curd / sesame seeds

    Ingredients

    • 2 cups (240 g) whole wheat flour
    • 2 tbsp besan
    • 1 cup fresh methi leaves, washed and finely chopped (packed)
    • 1/3 cup curd
    • 1 tsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander-cumin powder
    • 1 tsp white sesame seeds
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • 1 tsp grated jaggery or sugar
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp oil, plus more for cooking
    • Water as needed

    Method

    1. Combine the flour, besan, methi, all spices, sesame, ajwain, jaggery and salt in a wide bowl. Rub in 2 tbsp oil.
    2. Add the curd and mix. Add water a tablespoon at a time and knead into a soft, smooth dough, a little softer than chapati dough. Methi releases moisture, so go slowly.
    3. Rub a few drops of oil over the dough, cover and rest for 15-20 minutes.
    4. Divide into 12 balls. Dust one with flour and roll into a thin circle about 7 inches across, turning to keep it round.
    5. Heat a tawa on medium-high. Place the thepla on it and cook for about 30 seconds until small bubbles appear, then flip.
    6. Brush 1/2 tsp oil on top, flip again and press gently with a spatula. Brush the other side and cook until golden-brown spots appear on both sides, about 1 minute total.
    7. Stack the cooked theplas on a plate lined with a cloth and keep covered so they stay soft. Cool completely before packing.

    Tips

    • Do not add salt to the chopped methi and leave it standing; it will turn watery and make the dough sticky.
    • For travel, cool theplas fully before stacking in a container lined with paper so condensation does not make them soggy.
    • Cook on medium-high; too low a flame dries them out and they turn stiff.

    Serve with

    Chhundo or sweet mango pickle, plain curd and masala chai.

  • Undhiyu

    Undhiyu takes its name from undhu, meaning upside down. In villages around Surat the vegetables were packed into an earthen pot, sealed, turned upside down and buried in a pit with a fire on top. Today it is cooked on a stove, but it remains a winter dish, made when surti papdi, tuvar lilva, purple yam and small brinjals are in season, and especially on Uttarayan, the kite festival in January.

    The flavour comes from a fresh green masala of coriander, green garlic, coconut, ginger, chilli and sesame that is stuffed into the brinjals and potatoes and coats everything else. Methi muthia, fried fenugreek dumplings, go in towards the end and soak up the oil and masala. The result is rich, slightly sweet and full of contrasting textures.

    It is a feast dish, made in large quantities and eaten with puris, shrikhand or jalebi, and kadhi on the side. Many families prepare the muthia a day ahead to break up the work. The recipe below is the Surti style, which is green rather than red. Red, spicier versions are cooked around Bharuch and Ahmedabad.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time60 minutes
    Cook time60 minutes
    Total time120 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientssurti papdi / purple yam / baby brinjal / methi muthia

    Ingredients

    For the methi muthia

    • 1 cup chopped fresh methi
    • 1/2 cup coarse whole wheat flour
    • 1/4 cup besan
    • 1 tsp ginger-chilli paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • Oil for frying

    For the green masala

    • 1 1/2 cups chopped coriander
    • 1 cup chopped green garlic (or 10 garlic cloves)
    • 1/2 cup grated fresh coconut
    • 2 tbsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 2 tbsp white sesame seeds
    • 2 tbsp roasted peanuts, crushed
    • 1 tbsp sugar
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 tsp turmeric
    • 2 tsp coriander-cumin powder
    • 1 1/2 tsp salt

    For the vegetables

    • 250 g surti papdi, stringed
    • 1/2 cup fresh tuvar lilva (pigeon peas)
    • 8 small round brinjals
    • 8 baby potatoes, peeled
    • 200 g purple yam (kand), peeled and cubed
    • 2 small sweet potatoes, cubed
    • 1 raw banana, cut into thick rounds
    • 1/2 cup oil
    • 1 tsp ajwain
    • 1/4 tsp asafoetida
    • 1/2 cup water

    Method

    1. Mix all muthia ingredients except frying oil into a stiff dough without adding water. Shape into 20 small finger-sized logs and deep fry on medium heat for 4-5 minutes until golden and cooked through. Drain.
    2. Combine all the green masala ingredients in a bowl and mix with your hands. Set aside about one-third for stuffing.
    3. Make a deep cross cut in each brinjal and potato, keeping the base intact, and stuff with the reserved masala. Fry the cubes of yam, sweet potato and raw banana lightly in hot oil for 3-4 minutes until the edges are golden; this keeps them from turning mushy.
    4. Heat 1/2 cup oil in a wide heavy pot on medium. Add ajwain and asafoetida, then the papdi and tuvar lilva with half the remaining masala. Stir for 2 minutes.
    5. Layer the stuffed potatoes and brinjals over the beans, then the fried yam, sweet potato and banana. Spread the rest of the masala on top and sprinkle 1/2 cup water around the edges.
    6. Cover tightly and cook on low heat for 30-35 minutes without stirring. Shake the pot gently every 10 minutes to stop sticking.
    7. Check that a knife slides easily through the potato and yam. Add the fried muthia, cover again and cook 5-7 minutes more until they soften slightly. Fold very gently and rest for 10 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Undhiyu should be oily; the oil carries the masala and stops the vegetables from catching. Reduce it only slightly.
    • Do not stir with a spoon once layered; shaking the pot keeps the vegetables whole.
    • If green garlic is out of season, use regular garlic and a handful of spring onion greens.

    Serve with

    Hot puris, shrikhand or jalebi, and a bowl of Gujarati kadhi.