Tag: Indore street food

  • Indori Poha

    Poha is a breakfast across western and central India, but Indore has made it a civic identity. Street stalls near Sarafa and Chappan Dukan serve it from huge steaming pans from early morning, usually with jalebi on the side. Indore's version is steamed rather than stir-fried, so the flakes stay soft and separate.

    Indori poha is sweeter and more aromatic than Maharashtrian kanda poha. Fennel seeds and a little sugar go into it, and the finishing touches are crucial: a sprinkle of jeeravan masala, a local blend of cumin, black salt, dried mango and other spices, plus thin ratlami sev, chopped onion, pomegranate and coriander. A squeeze of lemon brings it together.

    At a glance

    RegionMadhya Pradesh
    CuisineMalwa
    DietVegan
    CourseBreakfast
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time15 minutes
    Total time25 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientspoha (flattened rice) / onion / fennel seeds / sev

    Ingredients

    For the poha

    • 2 cups thick poha
    • 1 1/2 tbsp sugar
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp fennel seeds (saunf)
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 8 curry leaves
    • 2 green chillies, chopped
    • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
    • 2 tbsp roasted peanuts

    For the topping

    • 1 tsp jeeravan masala
    • 1/2 cup ratlami or nylon sev
    • 1 small onion, finely chopped
    • 3 tbsp pomegranate seeds
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • Lemon wedges

    Method

    1. Rinse the poha in a colander under running water for 20-30 seconds, tossing gently, until just softened. Drain well and leave for 5 minutes.
    2. Sprinkle sugar, salt and turmeric over the damp poha and fluff with your fingers so it is evenly coloured.
    3. Heat oil in a kadhai on medium heat. Add mustard seeds and let them splutter, then fennel, cumin, asafoetida, curry leaves and green chillies. Fry for 20 seconds.
    4. Add the onion and cook for 2 minutes until translucent but not browned, then add the peanuts.
    5. Add the poha and toss gently to combine. Sprinkle 2 tbsp water over it.
    6. Cover and cook on the lowest heat for 4-5 minutes so the poha steams and turns soft and fluffy. Traditional stalls steam it in a pan set over boiling water.
    7. Serve on plates, topped generously with jeeravan masala, sev, raw onion, pomegranate and coriander, with lemon on the side.

    Tips

    • Do not soak the poha in a bowl – rinsing in a colander keeps the flakes from turning mushy.
    • No jeeravan masala? Mix roasted cumin powder, black salt, amchur, a pinch of black pepper and a little chaat masala.
    • Poha itself is gluten free, but most packaged sev contains wheat or is fried alongside it; check if needed.

    Serve with

    Hot jalebi and a cup of cutting chai.

  • Bhutte ka Kees

    Bhutte ka kees is a speciality of Indore and the Malwa region, where monsoon brings piles of fresh, milky corn cobs to the markets. At the Sarafa night market it is served in leaf bowls alongside garadu, sabudana khichdi and malpua, and at home it is a quick snack when the corn is at its best.

    Kees means grated. Tender corn is grated on a box grater, cooked in ghee with mustard seeds and green chillies, then simmered in milk until it thickens into a creamy, almost custard-like mass. Sugar, lemon, coconut and coriander balance it, so each spoonful is sweet, spicy, tangy and buttery all at once.

    At a glance

    RegionMadhya Pradesh
    CuisineMalwa
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time35 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientscorn / milk / ghee / green chilli

    Ingredients

    • 4 tender corn cobs (desi or sweet corn)
    • 2 tbsp ghee
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 2 green chillies, finely chopped
    • 1/2 tsp grated ginger
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 cup milk
    • 1 1/2 tsp sugar
    • Salt to taste
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 2 tbsp freshly grated coconut
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 1/2 tsp jeeravan or chaat masala (optional)

    Method

    1. Remove the husk and silk and grate the corn cobs on the coarse side of a box grater, collecting the pulp and juice in a bowl. You should get about 2 cups.
    2. Heat the ghee in a heavy kadhai on medium heat. Add mustard seeds and let them pop, then cumin, asafoetida, green chillies and ginger. Fry for 20 seconds.
    3. Add the grated corn and turmeric. Cook on medium-low heat for 6-8 minutes, stirring constantly, until the raw smell goes and the corn turns slightly translucent. It will stick if you stop stirring.
    4. Pour in the milk, add salt and sugar, and cook on low heat for 8-10 minutes, stirring, until the milk is absorbed and the mixture is thick and creamy.
    5. Turn off the heat and stir in the lemon juice.
    6. Serve warm, topped with grated coconut, coriander and a sprinkle of jeeravan masala.

    Tips

    • Desi corn gives the traditional starchy, thick texture; sweet corn works but needs less sugar and slightly less milk.
    • Use a heavy pan – grated corn catches easily at the bottom.
    • Add a few spoons of extra milk if it thickens too much while standing.

    Serve with

    Eaten on its own as an evening snack, with a cup of tea.