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Tag: Mild spice

  • Chana Madra

    Madra is a cornerstone of Himachali dham, the traditional festive meal served on leaf plates at weddings and temple fairs in Chamba, Kangra and Mandi. It is cooked by botis, hereditary Brahmin cooks, in large brass vessels over wood fires, and the dham menu would be incomplete without it. Cooking it is a matter of pride.

    The dish is defined by yogurt slowly cooked in plenty of ghee with whole spices: cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, bay leaf and sometimes a pinch of nutmeg. There is no onion, garlic or tomato. The gravy is pale, creamy and mildly tangy, coating soft chickpeas, and the aroma of ghee and cardamom fills the kitchen. Kidney beans or a mix of vegetables can be used instead of chana.

    It is eaten with steamed rice as part of the dham, alongside dishes like rajmah, kadhi and meetha bhat. At home it is made for festivals and special lunches. It is rich, so a small helping is enough. The key is slow, patient cooking of the curd in ghee, stirring constantly so it does not split. Leftovers keep well for a day in the fridge and can be loosened with a splash of warm water when reheated.

    At a glance

    RegionHimachal Pradesh
    CuisineHimachali
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time45 minutes
    Total time60 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschickpeas / yogurt / ghee / cardamom

    Ingredients

    • 1 cup kabuli chana, soaked overnight
    • 1 1/2 cups thick curd
    • 1 tbsp besan
    • 4 tbsp ghee
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 4 green cardamom, 1 black cardamom, 4 cloves, 1 small cinnamon stick, 2 bay leaves
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp black pepper powder
    • 1/4 tsp green cardamom powder
    • A pinch of nutmeg
    • 1 tbsp chopped raisins (optional)
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the chana with 3 cups water and salt for 1 whistle on high and 15 minutes on low until soft but holding shape. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water.
    2. Whisk the curd with besan, turmeric, coriander powder and chilli powder until completely smooth.
    3. Heat ghee in a heavy kadai on medium. Add hing, cumin, cardamoms, cloves, cinnamon and bay leaves and let them sizzle 30 seconds.
    4. Add the drained chana and fry in the ghee for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring gently, until lightly coated and fragrant.
    5. Lower the heat to the minimum. Pour in the curd mixture slowly, stirring constantly in one direction.
    6. Keep stirring on low for 8 to 10 minutes until the curd comes to a boil and thickens without splitting.
    7. Add the reserved chana water a little at a time to reach a medium-thick gravy. Simmer 10 to 12 minutes until ghee shows on the surface.
    8. Finish with black pepper, cardamom powder, nutmeg and raisins. Rest 5 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Besan stabilises the curd; constant stirring until it boils does the rest.
    • Do not skimp on ghee – it is central to the flavour of madra.
    • Try rajma madra or a mixed-vegetable madra with the same method.

    Serve with

    Steamed rice, as part of a Himachali dham.

  • Siddu

    Siddu is the comfort food of the Himachal hills, particularly the Kullu, Mandi and Shimla regions, where long, cold winters call for warm, filling food. Families make it on snowy days and festivals, and in recent years roadside stalls on the Manali highway have made it popular with tourists as well.

    The dough is wheat flour leavened with yeast and left to rise in a warm corner, then filled and steamed. Fillings vary from village to village: crushed walnuts and poppy seeds with green chilli and coriander, soaked urad dal ground with spices, or sweet versions with jaggery. Steamed siddu is soft, fluffy and slightly chewy, with a nutty, savoury centre.

    It is torn open and served with a generous pour of ghee, along with green chutney or dal. Leftovers are often pan-fried the next morning for breakfast. Siddu can be made a day ahead and re-steamed, and the walnut filling keeps in the fridge for several days. The steaming takes about twenty minutes, so plan for the dough to rise before you start, ideally in a warm kitchen.

    At a glance

    RegionHimachal Pradesh
    CuisineHimachali
    DietVegetarian
    CourseBread
    Prep time120 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time145 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientswhole wheat flour / walnuts / poppy seeds / ghee / yeast

    Ingredients

    For the dough

    • 2 cups whole wheat atta
    • 1 tsp instant dry yeast
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp oil
    • About 3/4 cup lukewarm water

    For the filling

    • 1/2 cup walnuts
    • 3 tbsp khus khus (poppy seeds), soaked 1 hour
    • 2 green chillies
    • 3 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 1/2 inch ginger
    • 1 tsp roasted cumin powder
    • 1/2 tsp amchur or anardana powder
    • 1/2 tsp salt

    To serve

    • 4 tbsp ghee, melted
    • Green chutney

    Method

    1. Dissolve sugar and yeast in 1/4 cup lukewarm water and leave 10 minutes until frothy.
    2. Mix atta and salt, add the yeast mixture and oil, and knead with the remaining water into a soft, smooth dough, about 8 minutes. Cover and leave in a warm place for 1 1/2 hours until doubled.
    3. For the filling, drain the poppy seeds and grind with walnuts, green chillies, coriander, ginger, cumin, amchur and salt to a coarse, thick paste with no added water.
    4. Punch the dough down and divide into 6 balls. Roll each into a thick oval about 12 cm long.
    5. Spread a heaped tablespoon of filling on one half, fold over, and seal the edges by pinching firmly. Shape into a slightly flattened oval bun.
    6. Cover and rest the filled siddus 15 minutes so they rise again.
    7. Steam in a greased steamer or idli-stand over boiling water on medium-high for 18 to 20 minutes, until puffed and firm. A skewer inserted into the dough should come out clean.
    8. Cut each siddu open across the top, pour in ghee and serve hot.

    Tips

    • Keep the dough soft; stiff dough makes dense siddus.
    • A urad dal filling (soaked dal ground with ginger, garlic and spices) is the other traditional option.
    • Brush the steamer plate with oil or line it with a banana leaf so they do not stick.

    Serve with

    Plenty of ghee, green chutney or a bowl of dal.

  • Jalebi

    Jalebi likely arrived in India from West Asia, where a similar sweet called zalabiya is described in medieval Arabic cookbooks. By the fifteenth century it was well established in Indian kitchens, and today it is the quintessential halwai sweet of North India, fried in great spirals in front of the shop every morning.

    Proper jalebi is crisp on the outside, with hollow tubes filled with warm syrup that bursts when bitten. The batter is fermented, traditionally overnight, which gives a slight tang that balances the sweetness. A little saffron or food colour gives the bright orange tint, and the syrup is scented with cardamom and a touch of lemon to stop it crystallising.

    It is eaten hot for breakfast with rabri or milk in Uttar Pradesh, with poha in Indore, and as a festival sweet on Dussehra and Independence Day. It is best within minutes of frying. At home, a squeeze bottle makes piping easy, and the batter can be fermented overnight so the jalebis are ready for breakfast. The syrup should be warm but not boiling, and the jalebis should be crisp before they go in.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineUttar Pradesh
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientsmaida / curd / sugar / ghee / saffron

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1 cup maida
    • 1 tbsp fine sooji or 1 tbsp cornflour
    • 2 tbsp sour curd
    • 1/4 tsp baking soda (only for the quick method)
    • About 3/4 cup lukewarm water
    • A pinch of turmeric or a few saffron strands for colour

    For the syrup

    • 1 1/2 cups sugar
    • 3/4 cup water
    • 1/2 tsp green cardamom powder
    • A pinch of saffron
    • 1 tsp lemon juice

    For frying

    • Ghee or oil for shallow frying (about 3 cm deep)
    • A squeeze bottle or a thick cloth with a small hole

    Method

    1. Whisk maida, sooji, curd, colour and water into a smooth, thick batter, about the consistency of pancake batter that flows in a steady ribbon. Cover and leave in a warm place for 10 to 12 hours to ferment; it should be bubbly and slightly sour.
    2. For the syrup, boil sugar and water on medium until it reaches one-string consistency, about 6 to 7 minutes – a drop pressed between thumb and finger forms a single thread. Add cardamom, saffron and lemon juice. Keep it warm.
    3. Beat the fermented batter well for 2 minutes. If it has thinned, add a spoon of maida. (Quick method: add the soda now and use immediately.)
    4. Heat ghee in a wide, flat pan on medium, around 170 C. A drop of batter should rise steadily without browning instantly.
    5. Fill the squeeze bottle. Holding it just above the ghee, pipe 6 to 8 cm spirals from the centre outward, finishing with a cross stroke to hold them together.
    6. Fry 1 to 2 minutes per side, turning once, until crisp and light golden. They should feel firm, not soft.
    7. Lift out, drain for a second, and drop into the warm syrup. Soak 30 to 60 seconds, turning once, then lift out. Serve hot.

    Tips

    • Fry in small batches so the ghee temperature stays steady and every jalebi crisps evenly.
    • Too thin a batter spreads flat; too thick and it will not pipe smoothly.
    • Ghee gives the classic halwai flavour, but a neutral oil makes them crisper for longer.

    Serve with

    Hot with rabri or a glass of warm milk.

  • Rabri

    Rabri is the slow-cooked milk sweet of Varanasi, Mathura and the Braj region, where halwais reduce huge iron kadais of milk over wood fires and gently fan the surface so cream forms in layers. Those layers, or lachhas, are lifted onto the sides of the pan and folded back in at the end, giving rabri its distinctive flaky, lacy texture.

    The taste is pure milk, deepened by long cooking, sweetened lightly and perfumed with cardamom, saffron and sometimes rose water. Rabri is thick but spoonable, with soft shreds of malai throughout. It is served chilled in kulhads, clay cups that add their own earthy aroma. The flavour is gentle and milky.

    It is eaten on its own after a meal, or poured over jalebi, malpua or gulab jamun. It is a festive offering on Janmashtami and Holi in Braj, and a winter-evening treat across Uttar Pradesh. Making it at home takes time but little skill; the trick is a wide pan and patience. Buffalo milk, with its higher fat, gives the thickest rabri and the most generous layers.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineUttar Pradesh
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time5 minutes
    Cook time90 minutes
    Total time95 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsfull-cream milk / sugar / cardamom / saffron

    Ingredients

    • 1.5 litres full-cream milk (buffalo milk is best)
    • 1/3 cup sugar
    • 1/2 tsp green cardamom powder
    • A pinch of saffron soaked in 1 tbsp warm milk
    • 1 tbsp pistachios, slivered
    • 1 tbsp almonds, slivered
    • 1/2 tsp rose water (optional)

    Method

    1. Pour the milk into a wide, heavy kadai and bring to a boil on medium heat, stirring so it does not catch.
    2. Lower to a gentle simmer. Do not stir the surface; let a layer of cream form, 2 to 3 minutes.
    3. With a flat spatula, gently push the cream layer to the side of the kadai so it sticks there. Repeat each time a new layer forms, occasionally fanning the surface to speed up the skin.
    4. Every few minutes, scrape the bottom gently to prevent scorching, without breaking the floating cream.
    5. Continue for 70 to 80 minutes until the milk reduces to about a quarter of its volume and the sides are thick with cream layers.
    6. Add sugar and stir gently until dissolved, about 2 minutes. Scrape the cream from the sides into the milk with the spatula, keeping the layers in pieces.
    7. Stir in cardamom, saffron and rose water, cook 2 more minutes and switch off.
    8. Cool, then chill for at least 3 hours. Serve in kulhads garnished with pistachios and almonds.

    Tips

    • A wide pan gives more surface area for cream layers to form.
    • Add sugar only at the end – added early it prevents good malai formation.
    • If time is short, a little khoya or milk powder thickens rabri faster, though the lachhas will be fewer.

    Serve with

    Chilled in kulhads, or poured over hot jalebi or malpua.

  • Malai Kulfi

    Kulfi dates to the Mughal era, when milk thickened with sugar and nuts was packed into metal cones and frozen in pots of ice and saltpetre brought down from the Himalayas. Lucknow, Delhi and Agra still have old kulfi shops, and in summer the kulfiwala with his red cloth-covered matka is a fixture of North Indian evenings.

    Unlike ice cream, kulfi is never churned or whipped. Milk is reduced for a long time until it is thick and slightly caramelised, giving a dense, chewy texture and a deep cooked-milk flavour. Cardamom, saffron and pistachio are classic, and malai kulfi celebrates the cream itself with little else added.

    It is served on a stick, sliced into rounds on a leaf plate, or with falooda and rose syrup. Making it at home takes patience at the stove but no special equipment. The secret is patience: slowly reduced milk gives the dense, caramelised texture that sets kulfi apart. Clay matkas give the most traditional look and a faint earthy aroma, but small steel cups or even paper cups work perfectly well.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineMughlai
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time75 minutes
    Total time90 minutes
    Serves8
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsfull-cream milk / sugar / cardamom / saffron / pistachio

    Ingredients

    • 1.5 litres full-cream milk
    • 1/2 cup sugar
    • 1/2 tsp green cardamom powder
    • A generous pinch of saffron soaked in 1 tbsp warm milk
    • 2 tbsp pistachios, finely chopped
    • 1 tbsp almonds, finely chopped
    • 1/4 cup khoya, crumbled (optional, for richness)

    Method

    1. Pour the milk into a wide, heavy-bottomed kadai and bring to a boil on medium-high, stirring.
    2. Lower the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring every few minutes and scraping the sides and bottom. Pull the malai that forms on top and on the sides back into the milk.
    3. Continue for 60 to 70 minutes until the milk reduces to about one-third (500 ml), turns pale cream in colour and coats the back of a spoon thickly.
    4. Add sugar and khoya and cook 5 to 7 more minutes until dissolved and the mixture thickens again.
    5. Stir in cardamom, saffron milk, pistachios and almonds. Switch off and cool completely, stirring now and then so no skin forms.
    6. Pour into kulfi moulds, small clay matkas or steel cups. Cover with foil and freeze 8 hours or overnight.
    7. To unmould, roll the mould between your palms or dip it briefly in warm water, then slide the kulfi out. Slice or serve on sticks.

    Tips

    • A wide pan reduces milk faster; a heavy base prevents scorching.
    • For a quicker version, add a tin of condensed milk to 1 litre milk and reduce for 25 minutes.
    • Kulfi keeps for 2 weeks in the freezer, well covered.

    Serve with

    On its own, or with falooda and rose syrup.

  • Dahi Bhalla

    Dahi bhalla, the North Indian name for dahi vada, is a dish of festivals and summer afternoons. In Delhi it is sold in large trays at chaat shops, the bhallas swimming in curd, and at home it is a fixture of Holi, Diwali and family functions. It has ancient roots; dishes of lentil fritters in curd appear in early Indian texts.

    The bhallas are made from soaked urad dal ground to a light, airy batter, fried and then soaked in water so they become soft and sponge-like. Squeezed and submerged in sweetened, lightly salted curd, they turn melt-in-the-mouth. Tamarind chutney, green chutney, roasted cumin and red chilli add contrast. Everything is served well chilled.

    It is served cold, as a snack or as part of a festive meal, and is especially welcome on hot days. Bhallas can be fried a day ahead and soaked shortly before serving. A well-beaten batter is the secret to soft bhallas, and it is worth taking the time to whisk it by hand. The finished dish keeps well for a day in the fridge, though the toppings are best added just before serving.

    At a glance

    RegionDelhi
    CuisineDelhi street food
    DietVegetarian
    CourseStreet food
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsurad dal / curd / tamarind chutney / cumin

    Ingredients

    For the bhallas

    • 1 cup skinless urad dal, soaked 5 to 6 hours
    • 1/2 inch ginger
    • 1 green chilli
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • A pinch of hing
    • 1 tbsp chopped raisins and cashews (optional)
    • Oil for deep frying

    For the curd

    • 3 cups thick curd, chilled
    • 3 tbsp powdered sugar
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp black salt
    • 1/4 cup chilled milk

    To serve

    • 1/2 cup tamarind-date chutney
    • 1/4 cup green chutney
    • Roasted cumin powder
    • Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • Chaat masala
    • Chopped coriander and pomegranate seeds

    Method

    1. Drain the urad dal well and grind with ginger and green chilli using as little water as possible, 2 to 3 tbsp, to a smooth, thick batter.
    2. Add salt and hing and beat the batter vigorously with your hand in one direction for 5 minutes until it turns light and fluffy. A small drop should float in water.
    3. Stir in the raisins and cashews. Heat oil on medium. Drop spoonfuls of batter, or shape round bhallas with wet hands, into the oil.
    4. Fry on medium heat for 5 to 6 minutes, turning, until light golden and cooked through. Too hot and they stay raw inside.
    5. Transfer the hot bhallas straight into a bowl of lukewarm water with a pinch of salt. Soak 20 to 30 minutes until they are soft and swollen.
    6. Whisk the curd with sugar, salt, black salt and milk until smooth and creamy.
    7. Press each bhalla gently between your palms to squeeze out the water, place on a serving dish and pour the curd over to cover completely. Chill 30 minutes.
    8. Before serving, drizzle with both chutneys and sprinkle cumin, chilli powder, chaat masala, coriander and pomegranate.

    Tips

    • Beating the batter well is what makes the bhallas soft; no soda is needed.
    • Do not let the batter turn runny while grinding – add water a spoon at a time.
    • Fried, unsoaked bhallas freeze well; thaw and soak in warm water before using.

    Serve with

    Served chilled on its own, or alongside papdi chaat and aloo tikki.

  • Modur Pulav

    Modur pulav, literally sweet pulao, is the celebratory rice of Kashmir. It is cooked at weddings, births and festivals, in both Pandit and Muslim homes, and its golden colour and perfume of saffron make it a centrepiece. The valley's own saffron from Pampore is traditionally used, along with walnuts and almonds grown in Kashmiri orchards.

    The rice is long-grain basmati cooked with ghee, sugar, cinnamon, cardamom and cloves, so every grain is glossy and lightly sweet. Saffron soaked in milk is drizzled in at the end, leaving streaks of gold, and the pulao is studded with fried almonds, cashews, walnuts, raisins and sometimes dried apricots and dates.

    Though sweet, it is served as part of the main meal alongside savoury dishes like yakhni or rogan josh, so the contrast of sweet and spiced is part of the experience. It is also offered at shrines and religious gatherings. Because it is sweet and rich, a small serving is enough, and leftovers can be warmed with a sprinkle of water and a spoon of ghee.

    At a glance

    RegionJammu and Kashmir
    CuisineKashmiri
    DietVegetarian
    CourseRice
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time60 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbasmati rice / saffron / ghee / sugar / dry fruits

    Ingredients

    • 1 1/2 cups aged basmati rice
    • 4 tbsp ghee
    • 1/2 cup sugar
    • 1 cinnamon stick, 4 green cardamom, 4 cloves, 1 bay leaf
    • A generous pinch of saffron soaked in 3 tbsp warm milk
    • 10 almonds, halved
    • 10 cashews
    • 8 walnut halves
    • 2 tbsp raisins
    • 4 dried apricots or dates, chopped (optional)
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 1/2 cups water

    Method

    1. Wash the rice gently until the water runs clear and soak for 30 minutes. Drain.
    2. Bring a large pot of water to a boil with the salt, add the rice and cook 6 to 7 minutes until about three-quarters done. Drain in a colander.
    3. Heat 2 tbsp ghee in a heavy pan on medium. Fry almonds, cashews and walnuts for 2 minutes until golden, add raisins and apricots for 30 seconds until the raisins puff. Remove.
    4. Add the remaining ghee to the pan with cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and bay leaf. Let them sizzle for 30 seconds.
    5. Add the sugar with 1/2 cup water and stir until it dissolves into a light syrup, about 2 minutes.
    6. Add the parboiled rice and fold very gently. Drizzle the saffron milk over the top and scatter most of the fried dry fruits.
    7. Cover tightly and cook on the lowest heat for 12 to 15 minutes (on a tawa placed under the pan, if your burner runs hot), until the rice is fully cooked and the syrup absorbed.
    8. Rest 5 minutes, fluff gently and garnish with the remaining dry fruits.

    Tips

    • Parboiling first keeps the grains separate; cooking raw rice in syrup makes it sticky.
    • Adjust sugar to taste – traditional versions are quite sweet.
    • A few drops of rose water at the end add another layer of perfume.

    Serve with

    Kashmiri yakhni or rogan josh as part of a festive meal.

  • Kashmiri Yakhni

    Yakhni is the gentle counterpart to rogan josh in Kashmiri cooking. The name comes from a Persian word for stock or broth, and the dish is a yogurt-based curry so pale and mild that visitors are often surprised it belongs to the same cuisine. It is a fixture of the wazwan and of everyday Kashmiri homes, both Muslim and Pandit.

    There is no chilli and no turmeric. Instead the flavour comes from mutton stock, fennel, dry ginger, green and black cardamom and a final scattering of dried mint. Yogurt is cooked slowly until it becomes silky and stable. The taste is soothing and fragrant, with a gentle tang and plenty of meaty depth.

    Yakhni is served with plain steamed rice, often on the same table as rogan josh so diners can balance mild with spicy. Vegetarian versions use lotus stem (nadru yakhni) or bottle gourd. Because it is mild, yakhni is also a favourite with children and older family members, and it is a comforting dish in the cold Kashmiri winter. Dried mint and fennel are the flavours that make it unmistakably Kashmiri, so do not leave them out.

    At a glance

    RegionJammu and Kashmir
    CuisineKashmiri
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time80 minutes
    Total time95 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / yogurt / fennel / cardamom / dried mint

    Ingredients

    For the mutton

    • 750 g bone-in mutton pieces
    • 4 cups water
    • 4 green cardamom, 2 black cardamom
    • 1 cinnamon stick, 4 cloves, 2 bay leaves
    • 1 tsp salt

    For the yogurt gravy

    • 2 cups thick curd
    • 1 tsp cornflour or 1 tbsp besan (to stabilise)
    • 3 tbsp ghee or mustard oil
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp shahi jeera (caraway)
    • 2 tsp saunf powder
    • 1 1/2 tsp sonth (dry ginger) powder
    • 1/2 tsp green cardamom powder
    • 1 tsp dried mint, crushed
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Put mutton, water, whole spices and salt in a pot. Bring to a boil, skim the scum, then cover and simmer on low for 50 to 60 minutes until tender (or pressure cook 4 whistles). Strain and reserve the stock.
    2. Whisk the curd with the cornflour until completely smooth.
    3. Heat ghee in a heavy pot on medium. Add hing and shahi jeera and let them sizzle for 20 seconds.
    4. Lower the heat, add the curd and stir continuously in one direction for 6 to 8 minutes until it comes to a boil and thickens slightly. This prevents curdling.
    5. Add fennel powder and dry ginger, then gradually pour in about 1 1/2 cups of the reserved stock, stirring all the time.
    6. Add the cooked mutton pieces and simmer uncovered on low for 15 to 20 minutes, until the gravy is creamy and coats the meat.
    7. Stir in cardamom powder and dried mint, check salt and rest 5 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Keep stirring until the yogurt boils; once it has boiled it will not split.
    • Full-fat curd gives the best texture; low-fat curd tends to separate.
    • Leftover stock makes an excellent base for pulao.

    Serve with

    Plain steamed rice, with rogan josh or haak on the side.

  • Gajar ka Halwa

    Gajar ka halwa arrives with the long, deep-red Delhi carrots that appear in North Indian markets from December to February. Punjabi families grate kilos of them at a time, often on the terrace in the winter sun, and cook the halwa in large heavy kadais for weddings, Lohri and everyday winter evenings.

    The carrots are simmered in milk until the milk is completely absorbed, then roasted in ghee with sugar until glossy and deep orange. The result is sweet, rich and slightly grainy, with the carrot flavour still distinct. Khoya adds a creamy, fudgy texture and cardamom gives the familiar aroma. Nuts are fried in ghee for crunch.

    It is served warm, sometimes with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or a spoon of rabri, after dinner or with tea. It keeps for a week in the fridge and reheats well with a spoon of ghee. The orange carrots available year round work too, though they need extra sugar and give a paler halwa. A pressure cooker can shorten the first stage, but slow cooking in a wide kadai gives the best texture.

    At a glance

    RegionPunjab
    CuisinePunjabi
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time75 minutes
    Total time105 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientscarrots / milk / ghee / sugar / khoya

    Ingredients

    • 1 kg red Delhi carrots, peeled and finely grated
    • 1 litre full-cream milk
    • 4 tbsp ghee
    • 3/4 cup sugar (adjust to the carrots' sweetness)
    • 100 g khoya (mawa), crumbled
    • 1/2 tsp green cardamom powder
    • 12 cashews, chopped
    • 12 almonds, slivered
    • 1 tbsp raisins
    • 1 tbsp pistachios, chopped

    Method

    1. Put the grated carrots and milk in a wide heavy-bottomed kadai and bring to a boil on high, stirring.
    2. Lower the heat to medium and cook uncovered for 40 to 50 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes and scraping the sides, until the milk has evaporated completely and the mixture is thick.
    3. Add the ghee and cook on medium for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring often, until the carrots look glossy and turn a deeper red.
    4. Add sugar. It will melt and make the halwa runny again; keep cooking 10 to 12 minutes until it thickens and the ghee starts to show at the edges.
    5. Stir in the crumbled khoya and cardamom powder and cook 3 to 4 minutes until it blends in.
    6. Meanwhile, fry the cashews, almonds and raisins in 1 tsp ghee until the nuts are golden and raisins puff.
    7. Mix most of the nuts into the halwa and use the rest with the pistachios to garnish. Serve warm.

    Tips

    • Use the finest side of the grater; coarse shreds stay chewy.
    • Add sugar only after the milk has reduced – adding it early slows evaporation and can make the carrots tough.
    • No khoya? Add 1/2 cup milk powder with a little milk at the same stage.

    Serve with

    Warm, on its own or with vanilla ice cream or rabri.

  • Sweet Punjabi Lassi

    Lassi is the drink of the Punjab countryside, once churned in tall clay matkas with a wooden madhani and drunk by the brass glass after a morning in the fields. Amritsar's lassi shops serve it in steel tumblers so thick a spoon nearly stands up, crowned with a layer of fresh malai and sometimes a dab of white butter.

    Sweet lassi is creamy, cold and gently tangy, with sugar balancing the sourness of the curd. Full-fat curd is non-negotiable; it gives the drink its body. A pinch of cardamom or a few drops of rose water is common, but the purest versions keep it to curd, sugar, ice and malai, churned until frothy.

    It is drunk with heavy breakfasts like chole bhature or aloo paratha, or on its own on a hot afternoon as a cooling drink. In summer, a glass of lassi after lunch is followed, inevitably, by an afternoon nap. At Amritsar stalls it is churned to order in big steel pots and handed over with the malai piled high.

    At a glance

    RegionPunjab
    CuisinePunjabi
    DietVegetarian
    CourseBeverage
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time0 minutes
    Total time10 minutes
    Serves2
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientscurd / sugar / malai

    Ingredients

    • 2 cups thick full-fat curd, chilled
    • 4 tbsp sugar (or to taste)
    • 1/2 cup chilled milk or cold water
    • 1/4 tsp green cardamom powder (optional)
    • A few drops of rose water (optional)
    • 6 to 8 ice cubes
    • 4 tbsp fresh malai (cream skimmed from boiled milk)
    • A few chopped pistachios to garnish

    Method

    1. Make sure the curd is well chilled and not too sour; a day-old homemade curd is ideal.
    2. Put the curd and sugar in a deep jug or bowl. Churn with a wooden mathani, or a hand whisk, for 2 to 3 minutes until the sugar dissolves and the curd turns smooth and frothy.
    3. Add the milk or water, cardamom and rose water, and churn another minute. The lassi should be thick but pourable.
    4. Add the ice cubes and churn briefly once more so the lassi gets very cold and develops a foamy top.
    5. Taste and adjust sugar.
    6. Pour into tall glasses. Spoon 2 tbsp of malai on top of each and sprinkle with pistachios. Serve immediately.

    Tips

    • A blender works but over-blending makes the lassi thin; pulse in short bursts.
    • For a quick malai substitute, lightly whip a little fresh cream.
    • Hanging the curd for 30 minutes first gives an extra-thick, Amritsari-style lassi.

    Serve with

    Aloo paratha, chole bhature or a hot summer afternoon.