Tag: Mumbai street food

  • Pav Bhaji

    Pav bhaji began in the 1850s as a quick, cheap lunch for textile mill workers and cotton traders in Mumbai, who needed something hot and filling during long shifts. Vendors mashed leftover vegetables with tomatoes and spices on a large flat tawa and served them with bread rolls. Juhu beach and Girgaum Chowpatty stalls made it famous across the country.

    The bhaji is a thick, spicy mash of potatoes, cauliflower, peas, capsicum, onion and tomato, cooked down in butter with pav bhaji masala until everything melts together. It is bright red from Kashmiri chilli and rich from the butter. The pav is split and toasted on the same tawa with butter and a pinch of masala until crisp at the edges.

    It is evening food, eaten at the beach, at fairs and at family get-togethers. Serve it with raw onion, lemon wedges and another knob of butter on top. Leftover bhaji becomes a filling for toasted sandwiches. Juhu stalls also offer cheese pav bhaji and khada pav bhaji, where the vegetables are left in chunks rather than mashed, but the classic smooth version remains the favourite.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMaharashtrian
    DietVegetarian
    CourseStreet food
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientspotato / tomato / butter / pav

    Ingredients

    For the bhaji

    • 3 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed
    • 1 cup cauliflower florets
    • 1/2 cup green peas
    • 1 small carrot, chopped (optional)
    • 4 tbsp butter, plus more to finish
    • 1 large onion, finely chopped
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1 green capsicum, finely chopped
    • 4 large tomatoes, finely chopped
    • 2 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 2 1/2 tbsp pav bhaji masala
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 3 tbsp chopped coriander

    For the pav

    • 8 pav
    • 3 tbsp butter
    • 1/2 tsp pav bhaji masala
    • 1 tbsp chopped coriander

    To serve

    • 1 onion, finely chopped
    • Lemon wedges

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the potatoes, cauliflower, peas and carrot with 1 cup water for 3 whistles until very soft. Mash coarsely with a potato masher, keeping the cooking water.
    2. Heat 4 tbsp butter in a wide, heavy pan or tawa on medium. Add the onion and cook for 4-5 minutes until soft and pale gold. Add ginger-garlic paste and stir for 1 minute.
    3. Add the capsicum and cook for 3 minutes until it softens. Add the tomatoes and cook for 6-8 minutes, mashing, until they break down into a pulp.
    4. Stir in chilli powder, pav bhaji masala, turmeric and salt and cook for 2 minutes until the butter starts to separate and the masala smells fragrant.
    5. Add the mashed vegetables with their water. Mash everything together vigorously with the masher for 4-5 minutes, adding hot water to keep it at a thick, spoonable consistency.
    6. Simmer on low for 10 minutes, stirring and mashing occasionally, until the colour deepens and it tastes cohesive. Finish with lemon juice, coriander and a spoon of butter.
    7. For the pav, melt butter on a tawa with pav bhaji masala and coriander. Slit the pav, press them cut side down into the butter and toast for 1 minute, then flip and toast the outside until crisp.

    Tips

    • Kashmiri chilli gives the signature red colour without too much heat. A teaspoon of beetroot is the vendor trick for deeper colour.
    • Keep mashing as it cooks; the smooth, homogeneous texture is what distinguishes good pav bhaji.
    • Do not skimp on butter at the end; it carries the masala flavour.

    Serve with

    Butter-toasted pav, chopped onion, lemon wedges and a cube of butter on top.

  • Vada Pav

    Vada pav was born in the 1960s near Dadar station in Mumbai, when Ashok Vaidya started selling batata vadas inside pav to mill workers who needed something cheap, filling and quick. It became the city's signature street food and an emblem of Mumbai itself, sold at thousands of stalls from early morning to late night.

    The vada is a ball of mashed potato tempered with mustard seeds, curry leaves, plenty of garlic, ginger and green chilli, dipped in a thin besan batter and fried until crisp. It goes into a soft, split pav smeared with red dry garlic chutney and a tangy green chutney. Bits of fried batter, called chura, are often sprinkled inside for extra crunch.

    It is eaten on the go, standing at the stall, with a fried green chilli sprinkled with salt. At home it makes a good monsoon evening snack. The vadas can be made ahead and fried just before eating. The garlic chutney is the soul of the dish, so make a good batch with dry coconut, garlic and red chilli and store it in a jar for weeks.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMaharashtrian
    DietVegan
    CourseStreet food
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientspotato / besan / pav / garlic

    Ingredients

    For the potato filling

    • 4 medium potatoes (about 500 g), boiled, peeled and coarsely mashed
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 10 curry leaves
    • 8 garlic cloves, 1 inch ginger and 3 green chillies, pounded coarsely
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 1 tsp lemon juice

    For the batter

    • 1 cup (100 g) besan
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1/4 tsp red chilli powder
    • A pinch of baking soda
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • About 3/4 cup water

    To assemble

    • 8 ladi pav
    • Dry garlic chutney (lasun chutney)
    • Green coriander chutney
    • 8 green chillies, slit
    • Oil for deep frying

    Method

    1. Heat oil on medium, crackle the mustard seeds, then add asafoetida, curry leaves and the pounded garlic-ginger-chilli. Saute for 1 minute until the raw garlic smell fades.
    2. Add turmeric, then the mashed potatoes and salt. Mix well for 2 minutes, turn off the heat and stir in coriander and lemon juice. Cool, then shape into 8 balls slightly flattened.
    3. Whisk the besan, turmeric, chilli powder, soda and salt with water into a smooth batter, thinner than pakora batter, that coats a spoon in a thin layer.
    4. Heat oil to medium-hot, about 175 C. Dip each vada in the batter, coat fully and slide into the oil.
    5. Fry 3-4 at a time for 3-4 minutes, turning, until the coating is crisp and light golden. Drain. Drizzle a little leftover batter into the oil to make crunchy chura and drain that too.
    6. Fry the slit green chillies in the same oil for 30 seconds until blistered, then toss with salt.
    7. Slit each pav horizontally without cutting through. Spread green chutney on one side and sprinkle dry garlic chutney generously on the other. Add some chura, place a hot vada inside and press lightly.

    Tips

    • Mash the potatoes by hand, not in a mixer, so the filling has texture and does not turn gluey.
    • A thinner batter gives the thin, crisp shell of the street version; thick batter makes it doughy.
    • Warm the pav on a tawa for a few seconds if it is a day old.

    Serve with

    Fried salted green chillies and cutting chai.