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Tag: Old delhi

  • Bedmi Puri with Aloo Sabzi

    Bedmi puri is the breakfast of Agra, Mathura and Old Delhi, where halwais fry them by the hundred from early morning and serve them in leaf bowls with a thin, peppery aloo sabzi and sometimes a side of halwa or jalebi. In Braj, the region around Mathura, bedmi aloo is also a staple of temple festivals and weddings.

    The puris are made from wheat flour kneaded with a paste of soaked urad dal, fennel, coriander, ginger and chilli, which makes them crisp, slightly coarse and full of flavour. The aloo sabzi that goes with them is runny and spicy, with tomatoes, crushed potatoes, fennel, kasuri methi and hing, made to be scooped up.

    It is weekend and festival food, especially in winter. A bedmi aloo breakfast is heavy and is often followed by a glass of lassi or a cup of strong chai. The dough can be prepared the night before and kept in the fridge, and the sabzi made while it rests. It is a meal for an unhurried Sunday, eaten slowly with plenty of conversation and tea.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineUttar Pradesh
    DietVegan
    CourseBreakfast
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time40 minutes
    Total time80 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientswhole wheat flour / urad dal / potato / tomato

    Ingredients

    For the bedmi dough

    • 2 cups whole wheat atta
    • 1/4 cup fine sooji
    • 1/2 cup skinless urad dal, soaked 4 hours
    • 1 inch ginger, 2 green chillies
    • 1 tsp saunf, coarsely crushed
    • 1 tsp coriander seeds, crushed
    • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • Water as needed
    • Oil for deep frying

    For the aloo sabzi

    • 5 potatoes, boiled and roughly broken by hand
    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp saunf
    • 1/2 tsp methi seeds
    • 1 inch ginger, grated
    • 2 green chillies, chopped
    • 3 tomatoes, finely chopped
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 1/2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp amchur
    • 1 tsp kasuri methi
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 3 cups hot water
    • Salt to taste
    • Chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Drain the urad dal and grind with ginger and green chillies to a coarse paste without water.
    2. Mix atta, sooji, saunf, coriander, chilli powder, hing, salt and oil. Add the dal paste and knead with a little water into a stiff dough. Rest 20 minutes.
    3. For the sabzi, heat oil in a pot on medium. Add hing, cumin, saunf and methi seeds; when the methi turns golden, add ginger and green chillies.
    4. Add tomatoes, turmeric, coriander powder, chilli powder and salt. Cook 6 to 8 minutes until the tomatoes are completely mushy.
    5. Add the broken potatoes and mash a few against the pan. Pour in hot water, bring to a boil and simmer 12 to 15 minutes until the gravy thickens slightly but stays runny.
    6. Stir in amchur, crushed kasuri methi and garam masala. Garnish with coriander.
    7. Divide the dough into 20 balls and roll each into a 10 cm puri, slightly thicker than a regular puri.
    8. Fry in hot oil, pressing gently so they puff, for about 1 minute per side until golden brown and crisp. Serve hot with the sabzi.

    Tips

    • Keep the dough stiff; soft dough makes oily puris.
    • The sabzi should be thin, so the puri can be dipped. Add hot water if it thickens on standing.
    • Halwais add a little sooji to the dough for extra crispness – do not skip it.

    Serve with

    Pickle, a glass of lassi, or jalebi for a full halwai breakfast.

  • Chicken Changezi

    Chicken changezi is a dish of Old Delhi's Mughlai eateries around Jama Masjid and Matia Mahal. The name nods to Changez Khan, but the dish is a modern restaurant creation, a cousin of butter chicken with a heavier hand of browned onions, cashews and cream. Places like Karim's and the smaller dhabas of the area made it a late-night favourite.

    The chicken is marinated and grilled or fried until charred, then finished in a thick, buttery gravy that is richer and spicier than makhani. Fried onions and cashews give body and sweetness, tomatoes add tang, and green chillies, garam masala and a whisper of kewra provide the Old Delhi character.

    It is eaten with rumali roti, khamiri roti or naan, usually as part of a meat-heavy feast. A small portion is plenty; this is not an everyday curry. It reheats well, and the flavours deepen overnight, so it can be made a day ahead for a party. The charred chicken is the key, so do not skip the searing step. A squeeze of lemon and a few rings of raw onion on the side cut through the richness.

    At a glance

    RegionDelhi
    CuisineMughlai
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time80 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / cashew / cream / onion / tomato

    Ingredients

    For the chicken

    • 800 g bone-in chicken, curry cut
    • 1/2 cup hung curd
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1 1/2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp oil

    For the gravy

    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 2 tbsp butter
    • 2 large onions, sliced
    • 20 cashews
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 3 tomatoes, pureed
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 1/3 cup cream
    • 1/2 tsp kewra water
    • Salt to taste
    • Chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Marinate the chicken with curd, ginger-garlic paste, chilli powder, garam masala, lemon and salt for at least 2 hours.
    2. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a heavy pan or tawa on high. Sear the chicken in batches, 4 to 5 minutes per side, until charred in places. Set aside. (Or grill at 230 C for 20 minutes.)
    3. In a pan, heat 3 tbsp oil and fry the onions on medium for 12 minutes until golden. Add cashews for the last 2 minutes. Cool and grind to a smooth paste with a little water.
    4. Heat butter in a heavy pot on medium. Add ginger-garlic paste and cook 1 minute, then the tomato puree with chilli powder, coriander, turmeric and salt. Cook 8 minutes until thick.
    5. Add the onion-cashew paste and cook on low, stirring, for 6 to 8 minutes until the gravy turns glossy and fat separates.
    6. Add 1 cup hot water and the seared chicken. Cover and simmer on low for 15 to 20 minutes until the chicken is cooked through.
    7. Add green chillies, garam masala and cream, simmer 3 minutes, then sprinkle kewra and coriander.

    Tips

    • Charring the chicken first gives the dish its smoky Old Delhi flavour.
    • Stir the onion-cashew paste constantly; it catches easily.
    • For extra richness, finish with a tablespoon of butter just before serving.

    Serve with

    Rumali roti, khamiri roti or butter naan.

  • Nihari

    Nihari comes from the Arabic word nahar, meaning morning, and in Old Delhi it was traditionally eaten after the dawn prayer. The dish is said to have been cooked in the Mughal kitchens of the late eighteenth century, and the shops around Jama Masjid and Ballimaran still cook it overnight in sealed degs and sell out within hours of opening.

    Bone-in shanks and marrow bones simmer for many hours in a broth spiced with a dedicated nihari masala of fennel, dried ginger, long pepper, mace and nutmeg. Roasted wheat flour thickens it into a silky, glossy gravy, and a slick of spiced ghee floats on top. The meat should fall off the bone at a touch.

    It is eaten with khamiri roti or kulcha, garnished at the table with julienned ginger, green chillies, coriander, fried onions and lemon. In homes it is a weekend or Eid breakfast, often cooked the night before. The bone marrow is a prized part, sucked out straight from the bone. It is very rich, so most people eat it slowly, with long breaks for tea.

    At a glance

    RegionDelhi
    CuisineMughlai
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time240 minutes
    Total time260 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientsmutton shanks / atta / ghee / nihari masala

    Ingredients

    For the nihari masala

    • 1 tbsp saunf (fennel)
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 2 pippali (long pepper)
    • 4 cloves
    • 2 black cardamom
    • 4 green cardamom
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 1 blade mace
    • 1/4 nutmeg
    • 1 tsp sonth (dry ginger) powder

    For the nihari

    • 1 kg mutton shanks (nalli) and bone-in pieces
    • 2 marrow bones (optional)
    • 1/2 cup ghee
    • 2 large onions, thinly sliced
    • 2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 2 tsp salt
    • 8 cups hot water
    • 1/3 cup whole wheat atta mixed with 1 cup water

    To garnish

    • 2 inch ginger, julienned
    • 4 green chillies, sliced
    • Chopped coriander
    • Fried onions
    • Lemon wedges

    Method

    1. Dry-roast the whole spices for the nihari masala on low for 2 minutes until fragrant. Cool and grind fine with the sonth.
    2. Heat ghee in a large heavy pot on medium. Fry the onions for 12 to 15 minutes until deep golden. Lift out half and keep for garnish.
    3. Add the mutton and marrow bones and sear on medium-high for 8 minutes. Add ginger-garlic paste and fry 2 minutes.
    4. Add chilli powders, coriander, turmeric, salt and 2 tbsp of the nihari masala. Stir-fry 3 minutes, adding a splash of water if the spices stick.
    5. Pour in the hot water and bring to a boil. Cover tightly (seal the lid with dough if you like) and cook on the lowest heat for 3 to 3 1/2 hours, until the meat comes away from the bone easily.
    6. Meanwhile, dry-roast the atta in a small pan on low for 5 minutes until it smells nutty and turns light brown, then whisk it into 1 cup water until smooth.
    7. Skim off some of the fat from the top of the pot and reserve it. Stir the atta mixture into the nihari and simmer, stirring, for 20 to 25 minutes until silky and thick.
    8. Heat the reserved fat with 1 tsp chilli powder and 1 tsp nihari masala and pour over the top before serving. Garnish at the table.

    Tips

    • Shanks give the gelatinous body nihari is known for; boneless meat will not.
    • A pressure cooker cuts the cooking to about 50 minutes, but the slow-cooked version is noticeably silkier.
    • Nihari reheats well; it thickens on cooling, so loosen with hot water.

    Serve with

    Khamiri roti or kulcha, with ginger, green chillies, fried onions and lemon.

  • Clear Light of Day

    Tara, married to a diplomat and living abroad, returns with her family for a summer visit to the house in Old Delhi where she grew up. Her elder sister Bim still lives there, teaching history at a college and caring for their brother Baba, who has an intellectual disability and spends his days listening to old records.

    The novel moves back to the 1940s, when the siblings' parents were distant, an aunt raised them, and their brother Raja, a lover of Urdu poetry, fell ill and later left for Hyderabad to marry into a Muslim family. Bim has never quite forgiven him, and the story slowly uncovers how each sibling remembers those years differently.

    Anita Desai's prose is precise and luminous, alive to heat, gardens and the slow decay of a house. Shortlisted for the Booker Prize in 1980, it is often regarded as her finest novel, a study of time, family loyalty and forgiveness set against the upheaval of 1947.

    Book details

    AuthorAnita Desai
    First published1980
    Original languageEnglish
    GenreLiterary fiction
    TypeFiction
    Pages (approx.)183
    SettingOld Delhi, the 1940s and the 1970s

    Themes

    • Sisterhood
    • Memory and time
    • Forgiveness
    • Partition
    • Duty

    Who should read it

    Readers who appreciate introspective family novels with exquisite, atmospheric prose.

    If you liked this, try

    • The God of Small Things
    • Fire on the Mountain
    • The Shadow Lines