Modur pulav, literally sweet pulao, is the celebratory rice of Kashmir. It is cooked at weddings, births and festivals, in both Pandit and Muslim homes, and its golden colour and perfume of saffron make it a centrepiece. The valley's own saffron from Pampore is traditionally used, along with walnuts and almonds grown in Kashmiri orchards.
The rice is long-grain basmati cooked with ghee, sugar, cinnamon, cardamom and cloves, so every grain is glossy and lightly sweet. Saffron soaked in milk is drizzled in at the end, leaving streaks of gold, and the pulao is studded with fried almonds, cashews, walnuts, raisins and sometimes dried apricots and dates.
Though sweet, it is served as part of the main meal alongside savoury dishes like yakhni or rogan josh, so the contrast of sweet and spiced is part of the experience. It is also offered at shrines and religious gatherings. Because it is sweet and rich, a small serving is enough, and leftovers can be warmed with a sprinkle of water and a spoon of ghee.
At a glance
| Region | Jammu and Kashmir |
|---|---|
| Cuisine | Kashmiri |
| Diet | Vegetarian |
| Course | Rice |
| Prep time | 30 minutes |
| Cook time | 30 minutes |
| Total time | 60 minutes |
| Serves | 4 |
| Spice level | Mild |
| Difficulty | Medium |
| Gluten-free | Yes |
| Key ingredients | basmati rice / saffron / ghee / sugar / dry fruits |
Ingredients
- 1 1/2 cups aged basmati rice
- 4 tbsp ghee
- 1/2 cup sugar
- 1 cinnamon stick, 4 green cardamom, 4 cloves, 1 bay leaf
- A generous pinch of saffron soaked in 3 tbsp warm milk
- 10 almonds, halved
- 10 cashews
- 8 walnut halves
- 2 tbsp raisins
- 4 dried apricots or dates, chopped (optional)
- 1/2 tsp salt
- 2 1/2 cups water
Method
- Wash the rice gently until the water runs clear and soak for 30 minutes. Drain.
- Bring a large pot of water to a boil with the salt, add the rice and cook 6 to 7 minutes until about three-quarters done. Drain in a colander.
- Heat 2 tbsp ghee in a heavy pan on medium. Fry almonds, cashews and walnuts for 2 minutes until golden, add raisins and apricots for 30 seconds until the raisins puff. Remove.
- Add the remaining ghee to the pan with cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and bay leaf. Let them sizzle for 30 seconds.
- Add the sugar with 1/2 cup water and stir until it dissolves into a light syrup, about 2 minutes.
- Add the parboiled rice and fold very gently. Drizzle the saffron milk over the top and scatter most of the fried dry fruits.
- Cover tightly and cook on the lowest heat for 12 to 15 minutes (on a tawa placed under the pan, if your burner runs hot), until the rice is fully cooked and the syrup absorbed.
- Rest 5 minutes, fluff gently and garnish with the remaining dry fruits.
Tips
- Parboiling first keeps the grains separate; cooking raw rice in syrup makes it sticky.
- Adjust sugar to taste – traditional versions are quite sweet.
- A few drops of rose water at the end add another layer of perfume.
Serve with
Kashmiri yakhni or rogan josh as part of a festive meal.