Handvo is a savoury cake from Gujarat made with a fermented batter of rice and mixed lentils, folded with grated bottle gourd and baked until the outside turns into a crunchy, sesame-studded crust. Traditionally it was cooked in a special handva cooker, an aluminium pot with a central chimney that sat over a sand base, but a heavy pan on the stove or an ordinary oven works well.
The inside is soft, moist and slightly tangy from fermentation, flecked with vegetables, while the top and bottom are dark golden and crisp. A little sugar balances the sourness, and the tempering of mustard, sesame and curry leaves poured into the pan becomes part of the crust. Edges darken almost to brown, and that is how it should look.
Handvo is eaten for breakfast, tea or a light dinner, cut into wedges and served with green chutney and tea. Leftovers are excellent the next day, toasted on a tawa, which makes it a sensible weekend dish to cook in a large quantity. Vegetables can be changed with the season: grated cabbage, corn or methi all work well alongside the lauki.
At a glance
| Region | Gujarat |
|---|---|
| Cuisine | Gujarati |
| Diet | Vegetarian |
| Course | Snack |
| Prep time | 25 minutes |
| Cook time | 40 minutes |
| Total time | 65 minutes |
| Serves | 4 |
| Spice level | Mild |
| Difficulty | Medium |
| Gluten-free | Yes |
| Key ingredients | rice / toor dal / bottle gourd / sesame seeds |
Ingredients
For the batter
- 1 cup rice
- 1/4 cup toor dal
- 2 tbsp chana dal
- 2 tbsp urad dal
- 2 tbsp moong dal
- 1/2 cup sour curd
- 1 cup grated bottle gourd (lauki), lightly squeezed
- 1/4 cup grated carrot
- 2 tbsp chopped coriander
- 1 tbsp ginger-green chilli paste
- 1/2 tsp turmeric
- 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
- 1 tsp sugar
- 1 1/4 tsp salt
- 1/2 tsp baking soda or 1 tsp Eno
For the tempering
- 3 tbsp oil
- 1 tsp mustard seeds
- 1 tbsp white sesame seeds
- 1/2 tsp ajwain
- A pinch of asafoetida
- 10 curry leaves
- 1 dried red chilli
Method
- Wash the rice and dals and soak for 5-6 hours. Drain and grind with the curd and minimal water to a coarse, thick batter. Cover and ferment overnight in a warm place.
- Mix the bottle gourd, carrot, coriander, ginger-chilli paste, turmeric, chilli powder, sugar and salt into the fermented batter. It should be thick and drop off the spoon in clumps.
- Just before cooking, sprinkle the soda over the batter, add 1 tbsp water on it and fold in well.
- Heat the oil in a heavy 8-9 inch non-stick or cast iron pan on medium. Add mustard seeds, and when they pop add sesame, ajwain, asafoetida, curry leaves and red chilli. Let the sesame turn light gold, about 30 seconds.
- Pour the batter over the tempering and spread it evenly about 1 inch thick. Cover and cook on low heat for 15-18 minutes, until the top looks set and the bottom is deep golden and crisp.
- Slide the handvo onto a plate, flip it back into the pan and cook the other side, uncovered, on low for 10-12 minutes until crisp. A skewer should come out clean.
- Rest for 5 minutes, then cut into wedges. Oven method: pour batter into a greased tin, top with tempering and bake at 180 C for 40-45 minutes.
Tips
- Squeeze only some water out of the lauki; the rest keeps the inside moist.
- The low flame is essential. On high the crust burns before the thick centre cooks.
- Ready-made handvo flour from Gujarati stores can replace the soaked grains; mix with curd and ferment 6-8 hours.
Serve with
Green coriander chutney and a cup of masala chai.