Tag: Snack

  • Seekh Kebab

    Seekh means skewer, and seekh kebabs reached North India with Central Asian and Persian cooks who roasted minced meat over open fires. In the bazaars of Lucknow, Delhi and Rampur they are cooked on long iron skewers over charcoal, the smoke drifting across the lanes in the evening, especially during Ramzan.

    The mince is kneaded with grated onion, ginger, garlic, green chilli, mint, coriander and a warm spice blend, then pressed onto skewers into long, even cylinders. Over charcoal the outside chars and crackles while the inside stays juicy. A little fat in the mince and a brush of butter while grilling keep them moist.

    They are served as a starter or a meal, with rumali roti or ulte tawe ka paratha, sliced onions, lemon and green chutney. Leftover seekh kebabs make an excellent kathi roll the next day. At home, a charcoal grill gives the best result, but a hot oven or even a heavy tawa works well. The mixture can be made in advance and kept chilled for up to a day before shaping.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineAwadhi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton mince / onion / green chilli / mint

    Ingredients

    • 500 g mutton mince (with some fat), minced twice
    • 1 medium onion, grated and squeezed dry
    • 1 tbsp ginger paste
    • 1 tbsp garlic paste
    • 3 green chillies, very finely chopped
    • 2 tbsp finely chopped mint
    • 3 tbsp finely chopped coriander
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp roasted cumin powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • 1/2 tsp black pepper powder
    • 2 tbsp roasted besan
    • 1 tbsp ghee
    • 1 tsp salt
    • Melted butter for basting
    • Chaat masala and lemon to finish

    Method

    1. Squeeze every bit of water from the grated onion in a cloth; wet onion makes the kebabs slide off the skewer.
    2. Combine the mince with all the ingredients except the butter and chaat masala. Knead vigorously for 5 minutes until the mixture is sticky and holds together.
    3. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour; cold mince binds better on skewers.
    4. Divide into 10 portions. With wet hands, wrap each portion around a flat metal skewer and press it into an even sausage about 12 cm long. Seal the ends well.
    5. Grill over medium-hot charcoal, or in an oven preheated to 240 C on a rack, for 10 to 12 minutes, turning every 3 minutes and basting with butter, until browned with charred spots.
    6. Without skewers, shape into logs and cook on a lightly greased tawa on medium heat for 8 to 10 minutes, rolling them so all sides brown.
    7. Slide the kebabs off, sprinkle with chaat masala and squeeze lemon over.

    Tips

    • Mincing twice gives the fine texture that clings to the skewer.
    • Do not over-grill; the kebabs are done when firm but still springy to the touch.
    • Chicken mince works too – add a beaten egg white to help it bind.

    Serve with

    Rumali roti or paratha, onion rings, lemon and mint chutney.

  • Shami Kebab

    Shami kebabs are found across North India and Pakistan, but Lucknow and Hyderabad claim them most strongly. Unlike galouti, they are made from boneless meat boiled with chana dal and whole spices, then ground together. The dal binds the mixture and gives the kebabs their characteristic soft, slightly grainy texture.

    A well-made shami is crisp on the outside and tender within, with a filling of chopped onion, mint and green chilli that adds freshness and crunch. The spicing is warm rather than hot: cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, black pepper and dried red chillies cooked into the meat itself. An egg helps the kebabs hold together in the pan.

    They are made in large batches before Eid and Ramzan iftars, frozen and fried as needed. Shamis are also served at tea time, tucked into bread rolls, or as part of a dinner spread with paratha and chutney. A tray of frozen shamis means a hot snack is always minutes away when guests drop by.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineAwadhi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time80 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsboneless mutton / chana dal / egg / onion / mint

    Ingredients

    For cooking

    • 500 g boneless mutton, cut into small pieces
    • 1/3 cup chana dal, soaked 1 hour
    • 1 onion, sliced
    • 1 1/2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 6 dried red chillies
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 4 green cardamom, 1 black cardamom
    • 6 cloves, 1 cinnamon stick, 1 bay leaf
    • 1 tsp shahi jeera
    • 1 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 cups water

    For binding and stuffing

    • 1 egg
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 1 small onion, finely chopped
    • 2 tbsp chopped mint
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 2 green chillies, finely chopped
    • 1 tsp lemon juice

    To fry

    • Oil or ghee for shallow frying
    • 1 beaten egg for dipping (optional)

    Method

    1. Put mutton, drained chana dal, sliced onion, ginger-garlic paste, whole spices, salt and water in a pressure cooker. Cook 5 to 6 whistles until the mutton is very soft and the dal is mushy.
    2. Open and cook uncovered on medium heat, stirring, until all the liquid evaporates and the mixture is completely dry, 8 to 10 minutes. This step is crucial; any moisture makes the kebabs break.
    3. Cool, remove the bay leaf and cinnamon, and grind the mixture to a fine, smooth dough without water.
    4. Add the egg and garam masala and knead well. Mix the chopped onion, mint, coriander, green chillies and lemon juice separately for the stuffing.
    5. Take a lemon-sized ball, flatten it, place a teaspoon of stuffing in the centre, close and flatten into a 6 cm patty. Repeat.
    6. Heat a little oil on a tawa on medium. Dip each kebab in beaten egg if using, and shallow fry 2 to 3 minutes per side until deep golden and crisp.
    7. Drain on paper and serve hot.

    Tips

    • If the mixture feels soft, add a tablespoon of roasted besan or breadcrumbs.
    • Shaped kebabs freeze well for 2 months – freeze on a tray, then bag them, and fry from frozen on low heat.
    • Grind in short bursts so the motor does not heat the mixture and make it pasty.

    Serve with

    Mint-coriander chutney, onion rings and lemon, or tucked into a paratha.

  • Galouti Kebab

    Galouti kebab is the pride of Lucknow. Legend says it was created for Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula, who had lost his teeth but not his love of meat, so his cooks devised a kebab soft enough to melt in the mouth. Galouti itself means soft. Tunday Kababi in Aminabad, famous for a secret spice mix said to run to over a hundred ingredients, made it known well beyond the city.

    The secret is texture. Mutton mince is ground to a paste, tenderised with raw papaya, bound with roasted gram flour and perfumed with cardamom, mace, saffron, rose and kewra. The patties are shallow fried in ghee until a thin crust forms while the inside stays almost creamy. A puff of clove smoke adds the finishing touch.

    Galoutis are served as a starter at Awadhi feasts and weddings, traditionally with ulte tawe ka paratha, a thin, flaky bread cooked on an upturned griddle, and sliced onions with mint chutney. Making them at home takes time, especially the grinding, but the mixture can be prepared a day ahead and kept chilled. A pinch of the spice blend sprinkled over the cooked kebabs adds a final burst of fragrance.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineAwadhi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time65 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton mince / raw papaya / besan / ghee / saffron

    Ingredients

    For the kebab mixture

    • 500 g mutton mince, with about 15 percent fat
    • 2 tbsp raw papaya paste (skin on)
    • 1 1/2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 tbsp roasted besan
    • 3 tbsp fried onions, crushed to a paste
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • A pinch of saffron in 1 tbsp warm milk
    • 1/2 tsp kewra water
    • 1/2 tsp rose water
    • 1 tbsp ghee

    For the galouti masala

    • 6 green cardamom
    • 1 black cardamom
    • 4 cloves
    • 1 small blade mace
    • 1/4 nutmeg
    • 1/2 tsp shahi jeera
    • 1/2 tsp black peppercorns
    • 1 tsp dried rose petals

    To cook

    • 4 tbsp ghee
    • 1 piece charcoal and 2 cloves for smoking (optional)

    Method

    1. Grind the galouti masala ingredients to a fine powder.
    2. Pass the mince through the fine plate of a mincer twice, or blitz it in a food processor in batches until it becomes a smooth, sticky paste with no visible fibres.
    3. Mix the mince with papaya paste, ginger-garlic paste, roasted besan, fried onion paste, chilli powder, salt and 1 1/2 tsp of the galouti masala. Add saffron milk, kewra, rose water and 1 tbsp ghee and knead 2 to 3 minutes.
    4. Cover and refrigerate for 4 hours, no longer – papaya will turn the meat mushy if left overnight.
    5. For smoke, heat the charcoal on a flame until glowing, place it in a small steel bowl set in the meat, add cloves and a few drops of ghee, cover for 5 minutes, then remove.
    6. With oiled hands, shape the mixture into thin patties about 6 cm across and 1 cm thick. They will be soft; chill them for 15 minutes if hard to handle.
    7. Heat ghee in a flat non-stick pan on medium. Fry 4 to 5 patties at a time for 2 to 3 minutes per side, turning once very gently with a flat spatula, until a deep brown crust forms.
    8. Drain briefly and serve immediately.

    Tips

    • Fat in the mince is essential for softness; very lean mince makes dry, crumbly kebabs.
    • Roast the besan on low until nutty and slightly darker before adding.
    • Flip only once; the patties are fragile until the crust sets.

    Serve with

    Ulte tawe ka paratha or sheermal, with onion rings and mint chutney.

  • Amritsari Fish

    Amritsar's fish shops, especially around Lawrence Road, have been frying fish in roadside kadais for decades, and the winter queues are part of the city's identity. Traditionally the fish was singhara or sole caught in the rivers of Punjab, cut into boneless pieces and fried in a seasoned gram flour coating.

    What sets Amritsari fish apart is ajwain. Carom seeds in both the marinade and the besan batter add a sharp, thyme-like note and help with digestion of the fried food. The coating is thin and crisp, reddish from chilli, while the fish inside stays moist and flaky. A dusting of chaat masala and a squeeze of lemon finishes it.

    It is eaten as an evening snack or a starter, wrapped in newspaper on the street or served on a platter at home with mint chutney and sliced onions. It is at its best eaten within minutes of frying. In winter many Punjabi families make it at home for guests, frying batches while everyone gathers in the kitchen.

    At a glance

    RegionPunjab
    CuisinePunjabi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time60 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsfish / besan / ajwain / lemon

    Ingredients

    For the first marinade

    • 500 g boneless firm white fish (sole, basa, singhara or surmai), cut into 5 cm pieces
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 tsp salt

    For the batter

    • 1/2 cup besan (gram flour)
    • 2 tbsp rice flour
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1 1/2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp ajwain, crushed lightly
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 egg (optional)
    • Salt to taste
    • 3 to 4 tbsp water

    To finish

    • Mustard oil or any oil for deep frying
    • Chaat masala
    • Lemon wedges

    Method

    1. Rub the fish pieces with lemon juice and salt and set aside 15 minutes. Rinse lightly and pat completely dry with kitchen towel – this removes the fishy smell.
    2. In a bowl mix besan, rice flour, ginger-garlic paste, chilli powder, turmeric, ajwain, garam masala, lemon juice and salt. Add the egg if using and enough water to make a thick batter that coats a spoon.
    3. Add the fish pieces and coat each one well. Rest 20 minutes in the fridge.
    4. Heat oil in a kadai to about 175 C. If using mustard oil, heat it to smoking first and then let it cool slightly.
    5. Fry 5 to 6 pieces at a time on medium-high for 3 to 4 minutes, turning once, until deep golden and crisp. Avoid moving them too much in the first minute so the coating sets.
    6. Drain on a wire rack or paper. For extra crunch, fry again for 30 seconds in hotter oil just before serving.
    7. Sprinkle generously with chaat masala and serve with lemon wedges.

    Tips

    • The batter should be thick; a runny batter slides off and gives an oily finish.
    • Rice flour is not traditional in every shop but makes the coating stay crisp longer.
    • Use a firm fish that will not flake apart in the hot oil.

    Serve with

    Mint-coriander chutney, sliced onion rings and lemon wedges.

  • Sabudana Vada

    Sabudana vada is a fasting-day favourite from Maharashtra, made for Navratri, Ekadashi and Mahashivratri, though most people eat it far more often than that. Soaked tapioca pearls are mixed with boiled potato and coarsely crushed roasted peanuts, seasoned with green chilli and cumin, and fried into flat, round patties. Every bite is crunchy.

    A good sabudana vada is crunchy outside and soft, chewy and slightly springy within, with the peanuts giving a nutty crunch. The pearls turn translucent and form little crisp bubbles on the surface while frying. Because the ingredients are fasting-friendly, the vada uses rock salt and avoids onion and garlic.

    It is served hot with a sweet curd dip or a green chutney made without onion. Pune eateries sell it all day with a cup of tea, and it is one of the dishes that make people look forward to fasts. Leftover sabudana khichdi can also be mashed and shaped into vadas.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMaharashtrian
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time40 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientssabudana / potato / peanuts / green chilli

    Ingredients

    • 1 cup (160 g) sabudana, soaked 5-6 hours
    • 2 medium potatoes, boiled and mashed
    • 1/2 cup roasted peanuts, coarsely crushed
    • 2 green chillies, finely chopped
    • 1 tsp grated ginger
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 1 tsp lemon juice
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1 tsp sendha namak (rock salt)
    • Oil for deep frying
    • 1 cup curd whisked with 1 tsp sugar, to serve

    Method

    1. Soak the sabudana as for khichdi: rinse, then cover with water just to the level of the pearls and leave for 5-6 hours. Drain completely and check that the pearls squash easily.
    2. In a bowl, combine the sabudana, mashed potato, peanuts, chillies, ginger, cumin, coriander, lemon juice, sugar and salt.
    3. Mix well with your hands until the mixture holds together. If it is too soft, add a little more crushed peanut.
    4. Divide into 12 portions. Wet your palms and shape each into a ball, then flatten into a patty about 1/2 inch thick.
    5. Heat oil to medium-hot, about 170 C. Test with a small piece; it should rise steadily without browning instantly.
    6. Fry 4 vadas at a time for 4-5 minutes, turning, until crisp and golden brown all over. Drain on paper.
    7. Serve hot with the sweetened curd.

    Tips

    • Too much moisture in the sabudana causes the vadas to burst. Drain well and let it dry.
    • Fry in medium-hot oil; very hot oil makes them dark outside and raw inside.
    • For a lower-oil version, cook them in an appe pan with a little oil.

    Serve with

    Sweet curd or a green chutney with peanuts.

  • Kothimbir Vadi

    Kothimbir vadi is a Maharashtrian snack made with a generous amount of fresh coriander, bound with gram flour and spices into a thick dough, steamed into a log, cut into squares and fried. It is made especially in winter, when big bunches of coriander are cheap in the markets. Puneri households often serve it as part of a festive meal or with tea on a rainy afternoon.

    The finished vadi is crisp and golden on the outside and soft, herby and slightly crumbly inside, with crunch from sesame seeds and a hint of sweetness from sugar. It is fragrant with coriander, cumin and green chilli, and the steaming step keeps it from absorbing too much oil. Each piece is crisp and fresh.

    Steamed logs can be refrigerated for two days and fried as needed. Some families skip frying altogether and simply temper the steamed pieces with mustard seeds and sesame for a lighter version. It is also a good way to use up an oversized bunch of coriander before it wilts, and the steamed log freezes well for up to a month.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMaharashtrian
    DietVegan
    CourseSnack
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientscoriander / besan / sesame seeds / green chilli

    Ingredients

    • 2 packed cups finely chopped coriander (leaves and tender stems)
    • 1 cup (100 g) besan
    • 2 tbsp rice flour
    • 1 tbsp ginger-green chilli-garlic paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander-cumin powder
    • 1 tbsp white sesame seeds
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 2 tbsp hot oil
    • About 1/4 cup water
    • Oil for shallow frying

    Method

    1. Wash the coriander, drain and pat completely dry before chopping fine.
    2. Mix the coriander with besan, rice flour, the paste, spices, sesame, sugar, salt and lemon juice. Pour the hot oil over and mix.
    3. Add water a little at a time to make a thick, firm dough that holds together. Do not make it sticky.
    4. Shape into two logs about 2 inches thick, or press into a greased tin about 1 inch deep.
    5. Steam in a steamer on medium-high for 15-20 minutes until a knife inserted comes out clean.
    6. Cool the logs completely, at least 30 minutes, then cut into 1/2 inch thick slices.
    7. Heat oil 1/4 inch deep in a pan on medium. Shallow fry the slices for 2-3 minutes on each side until crisp and golden brown. Drain on paper.

    Tips

    • Cool the steamed logs fully before slicing or they will crumble.
    • Wet coriander makes the dough soggy; dry the leaves well.
    • For extra crunch, dip slices in a mix of rice flour and sesame before frying.

    Serve with

    Green chutney or tomato ketchup with masala chai.

  • Handvo

    Handvo is a savoury cake from Gujarat made with a fermented batter of rice and mixed lentils, folded with grated bottle gourd and baked until the outside turns into a crunchy, sesame-studded crust. Traditionally it was cooked in a special handva cooker, an aluminium pot with a central chimney that sat over a sand base, but a heavy pan on the stove or an ordinary oven works well.

    The inside is soft, moist and slightly tangy from fermentation, flecked with vegetables, while the top and bottom are dark golden and crisp. A little sugar balances the sourness, and the tempering of mustard, sesame and curry leaves poured into the pan becomes part of the crust. Edges darken almost to brown, and that is how it should look.

    Handvo is eaten for breakfast, tea or a light dinner, cut into wedges and served with green chutney and tea. Leftovers are excellent the next day, toasted on a tawa, which makes it a sensible weekend dish to cook in a large quantity. Vegetables can be changed with the season: grated cabbage, corn or methi all work well alongside the lauki.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time40 minutes
    Total time65 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / toor dal / bottle gourd / sesame seeds

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1 cup rice
    • 1/4 cup toor dal
    • 2 tbsp chana dal
    • 2 tbsp urad dal
    • 2 tbsp moong dal
    • 1/2 cup sour curd
    • 1 cup grated bottle gourd (lauki), lightly squeezed
    • 1/4 cup grated carrot
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 1 tbsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1 1/4 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp baking soda or 1 tsp Eno

    For the tempering

    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tbsp white sesame seeds
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 10 curry leaves
    • 1 dried red chilli

    Method

    1. Wash the rice and dals and soak for 5-6 hours. Drain and grind with the curd and minimal water to a coarse, thick batter. Cover and ferment overnight in a warm place.
    2. Mix the bottle gourd, carrot, coriander, ginger-chilli paste, turmeric, chilli powder, sugar and salt into the fermented batter. It should be thick and drop off the spoon in clumps.
    3. Just before cooking, sprinkle the soda over the batter, add 1 tbsp water on it and fold in well.
    4. Heat the oil in a heavy 8-9 inch non-stick or cast iron pan on medium. Add mustard seeds, and when they pop add sesame, ajwain, asafoetida, curry leaves and red chilli. Let the sesame turn light gold, about 30 seconds.
    5. Pour the batter over the tempering and spread it evenly about 1 inch thick. Cover and cook on low heat for 15-18 minutes, until the top looks set and the bottom is deep golden and crisp.
    6. Slide the handvo onto a plate, flip it back into the pan and cook the other side, uncovered, on low for 10-12 minutes until crisp. A skewer should come out clean.
    7. Rest for 5 minutes, then cut into wedges. Oven method: pour batter into a greased tin, top with tempering and bake at 180 C for 40-45 minutes.

    Tips

    • Squeeze only some water out of the lauki; the rest keeps the inside moist.
    • The low flame is essential. On high the crust burns before the thick centre cooks.
    • Ready-made handvo flour from Gujarati stores can replace the soaked grains; mix with curd and ferment 6-8 hours.

    Serve with

    Green coriander chutney and a cup of masala chai.

  • Khandvi

    Khandvi, also called patuli or suralichi vadi in Maharashtra, is the most delicate of Gujarati farsan. Gram flour and sour buttermilk are cooked together into a glossy paste, spread paper-thin on a counter or the back of a thali, cut into strips and rolled. Done well, the rolls are soft enough to collapse on the tongue.

    The flavour is mild and tangy from the buttermilk, with a little ginger and green chilli, and the tempering of mustard seeds, sesame and curry leaves adds crunch and aroma. Coconut and coriander on top bring freshness. It is never heavy, which is why it appears at weddings and festive meals alongside richer sweets.

    Khandvi has a reputation for being tricky, and the difficulty lies in judging when the batter is cooked. Undercooked, it will not set; overcooked, it turns lumpy and refuses to spread. The plate test in step five takes the guesswork away. Once you have the knack, a whole batch takes under half an hour from bowl to plate.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time30 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbesan / buttermilk / sesame seeds / coconut

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1/2 cup (50 g) besan
    • 1/2 cup sour curd whisked with 1 cup water (1 1/2 cups buttermilk)
    • 1 tsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • A pinch of asafoetida

    For the tempering

    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp white sesame seeds
    • 8 curry leaves
    • 1 green chilli, finely chopped
    • 2 tbsp grated fresh coconut
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Lightly grease the back of two large steel thalis or a clean kitchen counter, and keep a spatula ready.
    2. Whisk the besan, buttermilk, ginger-chilli paste, turmeric, salt and asafoetida in a heavy non-stick pan until completely smooth with no lumps.
    3. Place the pan on medium-low heat and stir continuously with a whisk. After 4-5 minutes it will start thickening; switch to a spatula and keep stirring, scraping the sides.
    4. Continue for another 6-8 minutes. The mixture will turn thick, glossy and leave the sides of the pan as one mass.
    5. Test: spread a spoonful thinly on a greased plate and wait 30 seconds. If it peels and rolls cleanly, it is ready. If it sticks, cook 1-2 minutes more and test again.
    6. Working fast while hot, pour a portion onto the greased surface and spread it thin and even with the spatula in long strokes. Repeat with the rest.
    7. Let it set for 5 minutes. Cut into strips 2 inches wide and roll each strip tightly from one end. Arrange on a plate seam side down.
    8. Heat oil, crackle mustard seeds, add sesame, curry leaves and chilli for 20 seconds. Pour over the rolls and garnish with coconut and coriander.

    Tips

    • Use a 1:3 ratio of besan to buttermilk by volume; this is the proportion that sets reliably.
    • Spreading must be done the moment it comes off the heat. As it cools it thickens and tears.
    • Pressure-cooker method: cook the batter in a bowl for 3 whistles, then whisk smooth and spread.

    Serve with

    Eaten as is, or with a thin green chutney as part of a farsan plate.

  • Khaman

    Khaman is the bright yellow, sponge-soft gram flour cake that most people outside Gujarat call dhokla. In Ahmedabad and Surat the distinction is clear: dhokla is fermented rice batter, khaman is besan raised with citric acid and soda. Farsan shops sell it by weight every morning, along with nylon khaman, an even lighter version.

    Good khaman is airy and moist, with an open crumb that drinks up the tempering. That final pour of water, sugar, lemon and tempered mustard seeds is what makes it sweet, sour and juicy rather than dry. It should spring back when pressed and leave the plate slightly wet. Lemon and sugar should both be clearly present.

    It is eaten at breakfast, packed in tiffins and served to guests at any hour, usually with a sweet-hot green chutney and fried green chillies. Because it takes so little time, it is a common answer when visitors arrive unannounced in a Gujarati home. Leftover pieces stay soft for a day if kept covered at room temperature, and they are often packed for school lunch boxes.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegan
    CourseSnack
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time35 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbesan / lemon / sugar / mustard seeds

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1 1/2 cups (150 g) fine besan
    • 1 tbsp semolina (optional, for structure)
    • 1 tbsp sugar
    • 1 tsp citric acid or 2 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 tsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 3/4 tsp salt
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tbsp oil
    • About 3/4 cup water
    • 1 1/2 tsp Eno fruit salt

    For the tempering

    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp sesame seeds
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 10 curry leaves
    • 1/2 cup water
    • 2 tbsp sugar
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 2 tbsp grated fresh coconut and chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Put 2 inches of water in a steamer or large pan with a stand and bring it to a rolling boil on high heat. Grease an 8-inch tin.
    2. Sift the besan into a bowl. Add semolina, sugar, citric acid, ginger-chilli paste, salt, turmeric and oil. Whisk in water gradually to a smooth batter that flows like pancake batter, then whisk for 2 minutes more.
    3. Add Eno, pour 1 tsp water over it and whisk briskly in one direction for 10 seconds. The batter will double and turn pale. Pour immediately into the tin.
    4. Steam covered on high for 15-18 minutes without opening the lid for the first 12. A skewer in the centre should come out clean.
    5. Rest the khaman for 5 minutes, then run a knife round the edge and cut into squares while still in the tin.
    6. For the tempering, heat oil, crackle mustard seeds, add sesame, asafoetida, chillies and curry leaves for 20 seconds. Carefully add the water and sugar and boil for 1 minute until the sugar dissolves. Turn off and add lemon juice.
    7. Spoon the hot tempering evenly over the warm khaman so it soaks in. Garnish with coconut and coriander.

    Tips

    • Old besan or a batter left standing after adding Eno gives dense khaman. Work quickly once the Eno goes in.
    • If the top turns reddish, there is too much soda for the acid; add a little more lemon next time.
    • Pour the tempering while the khaman is still warm so it absorbs fully.

    Serve with

    Green chutney, fried salted green chillies and a cup of tea.

  • Khatta Dhokla

    Khatta dhokla is the original dhokla of Gujarat, older and plainer than the yellow besan khaman that outsiders usually picture. It is made from rice and a little urad or chana dal, ground coarse with sour curd and left to ferment overnight. The name means sour dhokla, and that gentle tang from fermentation is the whole point.

    The texture is soft, slightly grainy and moist, closer to a thick idli than to a sponge cake. The pieces are pale white, dusted with crushed black pepper or red chilli on top before steaming, and finished with oil tempered with mustard and sesame seeds. There is no sugar syrup poured over, which keeps the flavour savoury and clean.

    Gujarati homes make it for breakfast, as a tea-time snack, or as part of a Sunday farsan spread. It is often eaten with a drizzle of raw groundnut oil and a spoon of garlic chutney, a combination common in Kathiawad. Leftover pieces are tossed in a pan with tadka the next day.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time45 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / urad dal / curd / ginger

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1 cup rice (regular or idli rice)
    • 1/4 cup urad dal
    • 2 tbsp chana dal
    • 1/2 cup sour curd
    • About 1/2 cup water
    • 1 tbsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp oil
    • 1/2 tsp Eno fruit salt or 1/4 tsp baking soda

    For topping and tadka

    • 1/2 tsp crushed black pepper
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp white sesame seeds
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 8-10 curry leaves
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Wash the rice and dals together and soak in plenty of water for 5-6 hours.
    2. Drain and grind with the sour curd and just enough water to a slightly coarse, thick batter, like fine semolina. Transfer to a large bowl, cover and ferment in a warm place for 8-10 hours, until bubbly and pleasantly sour.
    3. Set up a steamer with 2 inches of water on high heat. Grease a 7-8 inch thali or cake tin with oil.
    4. Stir the ginger-chilli paste, salt and 1 tbsp oil into the batter. Just before steaming, add Eno with a splash of water on top of it and fold gently in one direction until the batter turns frothy.
    5. Pour into the greased thali to about 1/2 inch deep. Sprinkle crushed pepper over the surface.
    6. Steam on high for 12-15 minutes until a knife inserted in the centre comes out clean. Rest for 5 minutes, then cut into squares or diamonds.
    7. Heat 2 tbsp oil, add mustard seeds and let them pop, then add sesame, asafoetida and curry leaves. Pour evenly over the dhokla and garnish with coriander.

    Tips

    • In winter, ferment in an oven with just the light on, or add the salt before fermenting to speed it up.
    • Do not add Eno until the steamer is boiling; it loses its lift within a couple of minutes.
    • The batter should be thicker than idli batter; thin batter gives flat, dense dhokla.

    Serve with

    Garlic-red chilli chutney or green chutney, with raw groundnut oil drizzled on top.