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Tag: Soup

  • Kolhapuri Tambda Rassa

    Tambda rassa, meaning red gravy, is one half of Kolhapur's famous mutton thali. It is a thin, intensely spiced broth made from the stock of mutton bones and pieces, coloured deep red with local chillies, and served in a bowl beside a white counterpart, pandhra rassa, which is mild and milky with coconut. Diners drink the two alternately, cooling the fire of one with the other.

    The rassa should be thin enough to sip, with a glossy red oil layer floating on top. Roasted dry coconut and onion give it body and a smoky depth, while whole spices and Kolhapuri masala provide the heat. The mutton pieces simmered in it become tender and are eaten with bhakri.

    Every mutton khanaval in Kolhapur serves tambda rassa with refills, and locals judge a place by it. At home it is a Sunday dish, often made in the same session as pandhra rassa from a single pot of mutton stock. Rassa is drunk from a small bowl like soup, and refills are expected.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMaharashtrian
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseSoup
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time75 minutes
    Total time105 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / dry coconut / onion / kolhapuri masala

    Ingredients

    For the mutton stock

    • 500 g mutton on the bone (shoulder and ribs), cut small
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 5 cups water

    For the masala

    • 1 tbsp oil
    • 2 onions, sliced
    • 1/2 cup dry coconut, grated
    • 8 garlic cloves
    • 1 inch ginger
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 4 cloves
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 1/2 tsp black peppercorns
    • 1 tsp white sesame seeds

    For the rassa

    • 5 tbsp oil
    • 2 bay leaves
    • 1 small onion, finely chopped
    • 1 tbsp Kolhapuri masala
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • Salt to taste
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Rub the mutton with ginger-garlic paste, turmeric and salt. Pressure cook with 5 cups water for 6-7 whistles on medium until tender. Strain, keeping the stock and the pieces separately.
    2. Dry roast the coriander, cumin, cloves, cinnamon, peppercorns and sesame on low for 1-2 minutes until fragrant.
    3. Heat 1 tbsp oil and fry the sliced onions on medium for 8-10 minutes until deep brown. Add coconut and roast for 4-5 minutes until dark brown. Add garlic and ginger and cook for 1 minute.
    4. Grind the roasted spices, onion and coconut with 1/2 cup stock to a very fine paste.
    5. Heat 5 tbsp oil in a pot on medium. Add bay leaves and the chopped onion and cook for 4 minutes until golden.
    6. Add the ground paste and fry for 5-6 minutes until it darkens. Lower the heat, add Kolhapuri masala and chilli powder and stir for 30 seconds.
    7. Add the mutton pieces and toss for 2 minutes. Pour in all the stock, adding water to make about 5 cups.
    8. Bring to a boil and simmer uncovered on medium-low for 15-20 minutes until a deep red oil layer collects on top. Adjust salt, garnish with coriander and serve hot.

    Tips

    • Use bony pieces; the gelatin in the bones gives the rassa body without thickeners.
    • Kolhapuri masala varies widely in heat. Start with less and add more after tasting.
    • Serve with pandhra rassa if you want the full Kolhapuri experience.

    Serve with

    Jowar bhakri, steamed rice, sliced onion and pandhra rassa.

  • Thukpa

    Thukpa is a Tibetan noodle soup that became everyday food across Sikkim, Darjeeling, Ladakh and Arunachal Pradesh. In Gangtok's small eateries it arrives in a deep bowl with a side of fiery chilli paste, and on a cold, wet evening few things are more welcome. Thenthuk, with hand-pulled flat noodles, is a close cousin.

    The broth is light but deeply savoury, built from garlic, ginger, onion and tomato with a touch of soy sauce, and the noodles and vegetables are cooked in it just before serving. Chicken, pork or egg are common additions; this version uses vegetables. Each person adjusts their bowl with chilli sauce, lime and spring onion.

    At a glance

    RegionSikkim
    CuisineSikkimese
    DietVegan
    CourseSoup
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time40 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientswheat noodles / cabbage / carrot / tomato / garlic

    Ingredients

    • 150 g flat wheat noodles or egg-free hakka noodles
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 onion, thinly sliced
    • 1 tbsp chopped garlic
    • 1 tbsp chopped ginger
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tomato, chopped
    • 1 carrot, cut into thin strips
    • 1 cup cabbage, shredded
    • 1/2 cup french beans, sliced
    • 1/2 cup spinach leaves
    • 1 tbsp soy sauce
    • 1/2 tsp black pepper
    • 1/4 tsp cumin powder
    • 5 cups vegetable stock or water
    • Salt to taste
    • 2 spring onions, chopped
    • Lime wedges
    • Chilli paste to serve

    Method

    1. Cook the noodles in boiling salted water until just tender, 3-4 minutes. Drain, rinse in cold water and divide between bowls.
    2. Heat oil in a deep pan on medium heat. Fry the onion for 3-4 minutes until soft and lightly golden.
    3. Add garlic, ginger and green chillies and fry for 1 minute until fragrant.
    4. Add the tomato and cook for 3 minutes until soft, then add cumin powder and black pepper.
    5. Pour in the stock, add soy sauce and salt, and bring to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes.
    6. Add the carrot and beans and simmer for 3 minutes, then the cabbage for 2 minutes and the spinach for 30 seconds. The vegetables should stay bright and slightly crisp.
    7. Ladle the hot soup and vegetables over the noodles. Top with spring onion and serve with lime and chilli paste.

    Tips

    • Cook noodles separately and add the soup at the table – noodles left in the broth turn soft and starchy.
    • For chicken thukpa, simmer 250 g chicken on the bone in the stock for 25 minutes, shred and return.
    • A few Sichuan peppercorns (timur) crushed into the broth give the authentic tingling note.

    Serve with

    Veg momos and a spoon of red chilli paste.

  • Ulava Charu

    Ulava charu is an old, rustic dish from the Krishna and Guntur districts of Andhra Pradesh, made from horse gram, a hardy lentil grown in dry areas. Traditionally the horse gram was boiled for hours and the cooking liquid strained off, then simmered down with tamarind and spices. It is believed to warm the body and was popular in winter, and it has since become a speciality of upscale Andhra restaurants.

    The charu is dark brown, thick and glossy, with an earthy, nutty, slightly smoky flavour balanced by the sourness of tamarind. It is mixed with hot rice and finished with a spoon of fresh cream or butter, which mellows the tang. Some people eat it like a soup. It is also sold in jars at some Andhra sweet and pickle shops.

    At a glance

    RegionAndhra Pradesh
    CuisineAndhra
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSoup
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time90 minutes
    Total time105 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientshorse gram / tamarind / onion / garlic / cream

    Ingredients

    For the horse gram stock

    • 1 cup horse gram (ulavalu), soaked overnight
    • 6 cups water
    • 1/2 tsp salt

    For the charu

    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 2 dry red chillies
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
    • 6 garlic cloves, crushed
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp cumin powder
    • lemon-sized tamarind, soaked in 1 cup water
    • 1 tsp grated jaggery
    • salt to taste

    To serve

    • fresh cream or white butter
    • finely chopped onion

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the soaked horse gram with salt and 6 cups water for 10-12 whistles on medium heat, or simmer in an open pot for 2-3 hours, until very soft.
    2. Strain the cooking liquid into a bowl, pressing the beans lightly. Keep the cooked horse gram for a sundal or salad. Grind 2-3 tbsp of the cooked beans with a little stock and add to the liquid for body.
    3. Squeeze and strain the tamarind to get thick extract.
    4. Heat oil in a heavy pan. Splutter mustard seeds, then add cumin, fenugreek and red chillies. Add curry leaves, onion, garlic and green chillies and fry on medium heat for 5 minutes until golden.
    5. Add turmeric, chilli powder, coriander and cumin powder and fry for 30 seconds.
    6. Pour in the horse gram stock and tamarind extract, add jaggery and salt, and bring to a boil.
    7. Simmer uncovered on low heat for 30-40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it reduces to a thick, dark, glossy consistency that coats the back of a spoon.
    8. Serve hot over rice, topped with a spoon of cream or butter and chopped onion.

    Tips

    • Long, slow reduction is what develops the deep colour and flavour; do not rush it.
    • The charu keeps well for 3-4 days in the fridge and thickens further.
    • Horse gram must be well soaked and fully cooked; it is a very hard lentil.

    Serve with

    Hot rice with fresh cream and onions, or as a soup with a dollop of butter.

  • Tomato Rasam

    Rasam sits at the centre of a Tamil meal, served after sambar and before curd rice. Tomato rasam is the everyday version made in most Tamil homes several times a week, and every family has its own balance of tamarind, tomato and pepper. It needs no rasam powder; freshly crushed pepper, cumin and garlic do the work.

    The texture should be thin and clear, almost like a broth, with the solids settled at the bottom. It tastes sour, peppery and warm, with the fragrance of coriander and curry leaves. Many people drink it from a tumbler when they have a cold, and it is often the first food given to someone recovering from fever.

    At a glance

    RegionTamil Nadu
    CuisineTamil
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSoup
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time30 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientstomato / tamarind / black pepper / cumin / garlic

    Ingredients

    For the rasam

    • 3 ripe tomatoes
    • small lemon-sized ball of tamarind, soaked in 1 cup warm water
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 5 garlic cloves, unpeeled
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1/4 tsp asafoetida
    • 1 tsp salt, or to taste
    • 2.5 cups water
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 3 tbsp chopped coriander leaves with stems

    For the tadka

    • 1 tbsp ghee
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 dry red chilli, broken
    • 1/4 tsp cumin seeds
    • a few curry leaves

    Method

    1. Squeeze the soaked tamarind well and strain to get about 1 cup of thin tamarind water. Discard the pulp.
    2. Coarsely crush the peppercorns and cumin in a mortar, then add the garlic and pound a few times until bruised but not pasty.
    3. Chop one tomato finely. Crush the other two by hand straight into a pot, skins and all.
    4. Add the tamarind water, chopped tomato, turmeric, salt, asafoetida and curry leaves to the pot. Boil on medium heat for 8-10 minutes until the raw tamarind smell is gone and the tomatoes are soft.
    5. Add the crushed pepper-cumin-garlic and 2.5 cups water. Bring it up slowly on medium-low heat.
    6. Watch closely: when a layer of froth rises to the top and the rasam is just about to boil, switch off the heat. Do not let it boil hard, or it turns flat and bitter.
    7. Heat ghee in a small pan, splutter mustard seeds, then add red chilli, cumin and curry leaves for a few seconds. Pour over the rasam.
    8. Add the coriander, cover with a lid and leave for 5 minutes for the aroma to infuse before serving.

    Tips

    • The froth stage is the most important cue in rasam making; boiling past it dulls the flavour.
    • If your tomatoes are very sour, reduce the tamarind by half.
    • A teaspoon of cooked toor dal water added with the plain water gives a slightly fuller body without making it a dal.

    Serve with

    Hot rice with ghee and a potato or raw banana fry, or simply in a tumbler as a soup.