Golgappe in Delhi, pani puri in Mumbai, puchka in Kolkata: the snack has as many names as cities. North Indian vendors carry a large earthen pot of spiced water and a basket of puris, and customers stand in a semicircle as the vendor fills and hands out one puri at a time until they say stop. Delhi's version usually has two waters, spicy and sweet.
The puri must be paper-thin and crisp so it shatters in the mouth. The filling is boiled potato and kala chana or boondi, and the pani is a sharp, cold blend of mint, coriander, green chilli, tamarind, black salt and roasted cumin. The pleasure is the burst of cold, tangy, spicy water with the crunch of the shell.
It is street food eaten in the evening, and at home it is a party favourite, with a counter set up for everyone to fill their own. Bought puris are common, but homemade ones are well worth trying. Good puris and well-chilled pani make all the difference, so plan ahead and chill the water for a few hours.
At a glance
| Region | Delhi |
|---|---|
| Cuisine | Delhi street food |
| Diet | Vegan |
| Course | Street food |
| Prep time | 45 minutes |
| Cook time | 30 minutes |
| Total time | 75 minutes |
| Serves | 4 |
| Spice level | Hot |
| Difficulty | Medium |
| Gluten-free | No |
| Key ingredients | sooji / potato / mint / tamarind / black chickpeas |
Ingredients
For the puris (about 50)
- 1 cup fine sooji (semolina)
- 2 tbsp maida
- A pinch of baking soda
- 1/4 tsp salt
- About 1/3 cup water
- Oil for deep frying
For the teekha pani
- 1 cup mint leaves
- 1/2 cup coriander leaves
- 3 to 4 green chillies
- 1 inch ginger
- 3 tbsp thick tamarind pulp
- 2 tsp roasted cumin powder
- 1 1/2 tsp black salt
- 1 tsp chaat masala
- 1/2 tsp regular salt
- 5 cups chilled water
- 2 tbsp boondi (optional)
For the meetha pani
- 1/2 cup tamarind-date chutney
- 1 cup water
- 1/2 tsp roasted cumin powder
- A pinch of black salt
For the filling
- 3 potatoes, boiled and diced small
- 1/2 cup kala chana, soaked and boiled
- 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
- 1/2 tsp roasted cumin powder
- 1/2 tsp chaat masala
- Salt to taste
- 2 tbsp chopped coriander
Method
- For the puris, mix sooji, maida, soda and salt. Add water little by little and knead into a stiff dough. Cover with a damp cloth and rest 30 minutes, then knead again for 2 minutes until smooth.
- Roll a portion of dough very thin, about 1 mm, and cut out 5 cm discs. Keep the cut discs under a damp cloth so they do not dry.
- Heat oil to hot, around 180 C. Slide in 5 to 6 discs and press each gently with a slotted spoon so it puffs. Fry 1 to 2 minutes, turning, until crisp and light golden. Drain and cool completely.
- For the teekha pani, blend mint, coriander, chillies and ginger with 1/2 cup water to a smooth paste. Mix with tamarind pulp, spices and chilled water. Strain if you prefer clear pani, and chill for at least 1 hour. Add boondi just before serving.
- For the meetha pani, whisk the tamarind-date chutney with water, cumin and black salt.
- Toss the potatoes and chana with chilli powder, cumin, chaat masala, salt and coriander.
- To serve, crack a hole in the top of a puri with your thumb, add a teaspoon of filling, dip it in teekha or meetha pani and eat in one bite.
Tips
- Puris that do not puff were either rolled too thick or the oil was not hot enough.
- Store cooled puris in an airtight tin; re-crisp in a warm oven for 5 minutes if they soften.
- The pani tastes best ice-cold and made a few hours ahead, so the spices infuse.
Serve with
Extra chilled pani and a final sukha puri sprinkled with chaat masala.