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Tag: Travel food

  • Ker Sangri

    Ker sangri is the true taste of the Thar. Sangri are the long, thin pods of the khejri tree, and ker are small, sour wild berries from a thorny desert shrub. Both grow without irrigation in the harshest parts of western Rajasthan, and they are harvested, sun-dried and stored, so families had a vegetable dish available even in the dry months.

    Once soaked and boiled, sangri has a chewy, earthy texture and ker a sharp, slightly bitter tang. Cooked with mustard oil, red chilli, amchur, cumin and fennel, the dish is dry, sour and spicy, and keeps for several days without refrigeration, which is why it was a favourite for long journeys and festivals. Dried kumatiya seeds and raisins are sometimes added in the panchkuta version.

    It is eaten with bajra roti, puri or as part of a royal Rajasthani thali, and is often served at weddings. A little goes a long way alongside dal and roti. Dried ker and sangri are sold in Rajasthani grocery shops and online, and keep for a year in an airtight jar. Soaking overnight is essential, so plan this dish a day ahead.

    At a glance

    RegionRajasthan
    CuisineRajasthani
    DietVegan
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time480 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time510 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientssangri / ker / mustard oil / amchur / red chilli

    Ingredients

    • 1 cup dried sangri
    • 1/3 cup dried ker
    • 4 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp saunf
    • 3 dried red chillies
    • 1 tbsp coriander powder
    • 1 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 2 tsp amchur
    • 1 tbsp raisins (optional)
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Wash the sangri and ker separately in several changes of water and soak them in plenty of water for 8 hours or overnight.
    2. Drain and rinse again. Boil both together in fresh salted water for 15 to 20 minutes, or pressure cook for 2 whistles, until the sangri is soft but still has a little bite.
    3. Drain well, discarding the water. Break any long sangri pods into 5 cm pieces.
    4. Heat mustard oil in a kadai until it smokes, then lower the heat to medium. Add hing, cumin, saunf and dried red chillies.
    5. Mix the coriander powder, chilli powder and turmeric with 2 tbsp water to a paste and add it to the oil. Fry 1 minute until the oil separates.
    6. Add the ker and sangri, raisins and salt. Toss well and cook on medium for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring often, until everything is coated and slightly dry.
    7. Sprinkle the amchur, toss for a final minute so it coats the pods evenly, and switch off.

    Tips

    • Soak well; under-soaked sangri stays tough and woody.
    • Making the spice paste with water stops the powdered spices from burning in the hot oil.
    • Ker sangri keeps for 3 to 4 days at room temperature in cool weather, making it good travel food.

    Serve with

    Bajra roti or puris, with dal and buttermilk.

  • Methi Thepla

    Every Gujarati family that travels carries theplas. These thin, spiced flatbreads made with whole wheat flour and fresh fenugreek stay soft for three to four days without refrigeration, so they fill tiffins on train journeys, foreign trips and pilgrimages. The curd and oil in the dough are what keep them supple long after cooking.

    Methi gives a pleasant bitterness that is balanced by a little jaggery or sugar, turmeric, chilli and sesame seeds. Some cooks add a spoon of besan for a nuttier taste. The thepla is rolled thinner than a paratha and cooked with a light brush of oil, so it is soft and flexible rather than flaky.

    At home it is a breakfast or dinner bread, eaten with chhundo (grated sweet mango pickle), plain curd or a dry potato shaak. Many families make theplas in bulk on Sunday and use them through the week. Dudhi, spinach or leftover dal can replace the methi, and each variation has its loyal fans within the same household.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseBread
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientswhole wheat flour / fenugreek leaves / curd / sesame seeds

    Ingredients

    • 2 cups (240 g) whole wheat flour
    • 2 tbsp besan
    • 1 cup fresh methi leaves, washed and finely chopped (packed)
    • 1/3 cup curd
    • 1 tsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander-cumin powder
    • 1 tsp white sesame seeds
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • 1 tsp grated jaggery or sugar
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp oil, plus more for cooking
    • Water as needed

    Method

    1. Combine the flour, besan, methi, all spices, sesame, ajwain, jaggery and salt in a wide bowl. Rub in 2 tbsp oil.
    2. Add the curd and mix. Add water a tablespoon at a time and knead into a soft, smooth dough, a little softer than chapati dough. Methi releases moisture, so go slowly.
    3. Rub a few drops of oil over the dough, cover and rest for 15-20 minutes.
    4. Divide into 12 balls. Dust one with flour and roll into a thin circle about 7 inches across, turning to keep it round.
    5. Heat a tawa on medium-high. Place the thepla on it and cook for about 30 seconds until small bubbles appear, then flip.
    6. Brush 1/2 tsp oil on top, flip again and press gently with a spatula. Brush the other side and cook until golden-brown spots appear on both sides, about 1 minute total.
    7. Stack the cooked theplas on a plate lined with a cloth and keep covered so they stay soft. Cool completely before packing.

    Tips

    • Do not add salt to the chopped methi and leave it standing; it will turn watery and make the dough sticky.
    • For travel, cool theplas fully before stacking in a container lined with paper so condensation does not make them soggy.
    • Cook on medium-high; too low a flame dries them out and they turn stiff.

    Serve with

    Chhundo or sweet mango pickle, plain curd and masala chai.

  • Sattu Paratha

    Sattu, flour made from roasted chickpeas, is the protein staple of Bihar and eastern Uttar Pradesh. Farmers and labourers carry it to the fields mixed with water and salt, and in homes it becomes litti, sharbat and these stuffed parathas. Cheap, filling and shelf-stable, it is one of the oldest convenience foods in India.

    The filling is dry, savoury and sharp: sattu mixed with raw onion, garlic, green chilli, ajwain, kalonji, lemon and mustard oil, often with a spoon of masala from the mango pickle jar. Once rolled inside a wheat dough and cooked on a tawa with ghee, it gives a nutty, smoky paratha that keeps you going until lunch.

    At a glance

    RegionBihar
    CuisineBihari
    DietVegetarian
    CourseBreakfast
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientssattu / whole wheat flour / onion / mustard oil

    Ingredients

    For the dough

    • 2 cups whole wheat flour (atta)
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1 tsp oil
    • About 3/4 cup water

    For the filling

    • 1 cup sattu (roasted gram flour)
    • 1 small onion, very finely chopped
    • 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
    • 1 inch ginger, grated
    • 2 green chillies, finely chopped
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • 1/2 tsp kalonji
    • 1 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 tbsp mango pickle masala (optional)
    • Salt to taste
    • 2-3 tbsp water if needed

    For cooking

    • Ghee or oil, as needed

    Method

    1. Knead the atta with salt, oil and water into a soft, smooth dough. Cover and rest for 20 minutes.
    2. Mix all the filling ingredients in a bowl. Squeeze with your hand – the filling should hold together when pressed but crumble when poked. Sprinkle 1-2 tbsp water if it is too dry.
    3. Divide the dough into 8 balls and the filling into 8 portions.
    4. Roll a ball into a 10 cm disc, place a portion of filling in the centre, bring the edges together and pinch to seal. Flatten gently.
    5. Dust with flour and roll carefully into an 18 cm paratha, applying light, even pressure so the filling does not break through.
    6. Cook on a hot tawa over medium heat for 1 minute until small bubbles appear, flip and cook another minute.
    7. Spread ghee on both sides and cook, pressing with a spatula, until both sides have golden-brown spots, about 1 minute per side. Repeat with the rest.

    Tips

    • Chop the onion very finely; large pieces tear the paratha while rolling.
    • If the filling is too dry the paratha tastes powdery, too wet and it leaks – aim for damp sand.
    • Wrap cooked parathas in a cloth to keep them soft if packing for travel.

    Serve with

    Curd, mango pickle and aloo chokha or a hot cup of tea.

  • Puliyodarai

    Puliyodarai, also called puli sadam or tamarind rice, is the most famous prasadam of Vaishnava temples in Tamil Nadu, and Iyengar families have kept the recipe as a point of pride. The heart of it is pulikachal, a tamarind paste cooked slowly in gingelly oil until thick and dark. Made in bulk, the paste keeps for weeks and turns leftover rice into a meal in minutes.

    The flavour is sour, spicy and slightly sweet, with a nutty depth from roasted sesame and fenugreek. Good puliyodarai is glossy and well coated, each grain brown and separate. It tastes better a few hours after mixing, which is why it is the standard food for train journeys and pilgrimages.

    At a glance

    RegionTamil Nadu
    CuisineIyengar
    DietVegan
    CourseRice
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / tamarind / sesame seeds / peanuts / gingelly oil

    Ingredients

    For the spice powder

    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp chana dal
    • 1 tsp urad dal
    • 1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 1/2 tsp black peppercorns
    • 4 dry red chillies
    • 1 tbsp white sesame seeds

    For the pulikachal

    • large lemon-sized ball of tamarind (about 60 g), soaked in 1.5 cups hot water
    • 1/3 cup gingelly oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tbsp chana dal
    • 1 tsp urad dal
    • 3 tbsp raw peanuts
    • 3 dry red chillies, broken
    • 2 sprigs curry leaves
    • 1/2 tsp asafoetida
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1.5 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp grated jaggery

    For the rice

    • 4 cups cooked rice (from 1.25 cups raw), cooled
    • 1 tbsp gingelly oil

    Method

    1. Dry roast the coriander, chana dal, urad dal, fenugreek, pepper and red chillies on low heat for 4-5 minutes until golden and fragrant. Add sesame in the last minute and roast until it pops. Cool and grind to a fine powder.
    2. Extract about 1.5 cups of thick tamarind extract and strain.
    3. Heat the gingelly oil in a heavy kadai on medium heat. Fry the peanuts for 2 minutes until crunchy, then add mustard seeds and let them splutter.
    4. Add chana dal, urad dal and red chillies and fry until the dals are golden. Add curry leaves and asafoetida.
    5. Pour in the tamarind extract with turmeric and salt. Bring to a boil, then simmer on low-medium heat for 20-25 minutes, stirring now and then, until it reduces to a thick paste and oil separates at the edges.
    6. Stir in jaggery and 3 tbsp of the spice powder and cook for 2 more minutes. This is the pulikachal.
    7. Spread the cooled rice in a wide bowl, drizzle with 1 tbsp gingelly oil and add about 4-5 tbsp of pulikachal and 1 tbsp more spice powder.
    8. Mix gently with your fingers or a flat spoon until every grain is coated. Taste and adjust. Rest for at least an hour before serving.

    Tips

    • Leftover pulikachal keeps in a clean dry jar in the fridge for a month, provided it is covered with oil.
    • Cooking the rice slightly firm with a few drops of oil keeps the grains separate.
    • Do not hurry the reduction; undercooked pulikachal tastes raw and sharp.

    Serve with

    Appalam, vadam and a cup of curd or curd rice.

  • Lemon Rice

    Elumichai sadam is one of the variety rices of Tamil Nadu, packed in tiffin boxes, carried on train journeys and offered at temples. It was designed to travel: the lemon and turmeric keep it fresh for hours at room temperature, and it tastes best when it has rested a while and the rice has soaked up the tempering.

    Each grain should be separate, bright yellow and glossy, with crunch from roasted peanuts and dals and a clean sourness from the lemon. It is never mushy. Families make it on busy mornings with leftover rice, and it is standard fare for festival days like Aadi Perukku, when several flavoured rices are cooked together.

    At a glance

    RegionTamil Nadu
    CuisineTamil
    DietVegan
    CourseRice
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time10 minutes
    Total time20 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / lemon / peanuts / green chillies / curry leaves

    Ingredients

    • 3 cups cooked rice (from 1 cup raw sona masoori or ponni), cooled
    • 3 tbsp gingelly or groundnut oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp chana dal
    • 1 tsp urad dal
    • 3 tbsp raw peanuts
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 1 dry red chilli, broken
    • 1 inch ginger, finely chopped
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 1/4 tsp asafoetida
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp salt, or to taste
    • juice of 2 lemons (about 4 tbsp)
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Spread the cooked rice on a plate so it cools completely and the grains separate. Freshly cooked hot rice breaks and turns pasty.
    2. Heat oil in a wide kadai on medium heat. Fry the peanuts for 2-3 minutes until they crackle and the skins darken in spots; lift them out and keep aside.
    3. In the same oil add mustard seeds. When they splutter, add chana dal and urad dal and fry for about 1 minute until golden.
    4. Add green chillies, red chilli, ginger and curry leaves and fry for 30 seconds until the leaves are crisp.
    5. Lower the heat, add asafoetida and turmeric, stir for 5 seconds and immediately switch off the heat so the turmeric does not burn.
    6. Add the salt and lemon juice to the tempering off the heat and stir. Cooking lemon juice makes it bitter.
    7. Add the rice and peanuts and gently fold with a flat spatula until every grain is evenly yellow. Taste and adjust salt and lemon.
    8. Mix in coriander and let the rice rest for 15-20 minutes before serving for the flavours to settle.

    Tips

    • Always add lemon juice off the heat.
    • Day-old refrigerated rice works very well; bring it to room temperature first.
    • For temple style, skip ginger and add a pinch of fenugreek powder to the tempering.

    Serve with

    Potato fry, appalam and a cup of curd, or coconut chutney for a lunchbox.