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  • Ker Sangri

    Ker sangri is the true taste of the Thar. Sangri are the long, thin pods of the khejri tree, and ker are small, sour wild berries from a thorny desert shrub. Both grow without irrigation in the harshest parts of western Rajasthan, and they are harvested, sun-dried and stored, so families had a vegetable dish available even in the dry months.

    Once soaked and boiled, sangri has a chewy, earthy texture and ker a sharp, slightly bitter tang. Cooked with mustard oil, red chilli, amchur, cumin and fennel, the dish is dry, sour and spicy, and keeps for several days without refrigeration, which is why it was a favourite for long journeys and festivals. Dried kumatiya seeds and raisins are sometimes added in the panchkuta version.

    It is eaten with bajra roti, puri or as part of a royal Rajasthani thali, and is often served at weddings. A little goes a long way alongside dal and roti. Dried ker and sangri are sold in Rajasthani grocery shops and online, and keep for a year in an airtight jar. Soaking overnight is essential, so plan this dish a day ahead.

    At a glance

    RegionRajasthan
    CuisineRajasthani
    DietVegan
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time480 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time510 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientssangri / ker / mustard oil / amchur / red chilli

    Ingredients

    • 1 cup dried sangri
    • 1/3 cup dried ker
    • 4 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp saunf
    • 3 dried red chillies
    • 1 tbsp coriander powder
    • 1 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 2 tsp amchur
    • 1 tbsp raisins (optional)
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Wash the sangri and ker separately in several changes of water and soak them in plenty of water for 8 hours or overnight.
    2. Drain and rinse again. Boil both together in fresh salted water for 15 to 20 minutes, or pressure cook for 2 whistles, until the sangri is soft but still has a little bite.
    3. Drain well, discarding the water. Break any long sangri pods into 5 cm pieces.
    4. Heat mustard oil in a kadai until it smokes, then lower the heat to medium. Add hing, cumin, saunf and dried red chillies.
    5. Mix the coriander powder, chilli powder and turmeric with 2 tbsp water to a paste and add it to the oil. Fry 1 minute until the oil separates.
    6. Add the ker and sangri, raisins and salt. Toss well and cook on medium for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring often, until everything is coated and slightly dry.
    7. Sprinkle the amchur, toss for a final minute so it coats the pods evenly, and switch off.

    Tips

    • Soak well; under-soaked sangri stays tough and woody.
    • Making the spice paste with water stops the powdered spices from burning in the hot oil.
    • Ker sangri keeps for 3 to 4 days at room temperature in cool weather, making it good travel food.

    Serve with

    Bajra roti or puris, with dal and buttermilk.

  • Gatte ki Sabzi

    Gatte ki sabzi is one of the cleverest dishes of Rajasthan. In a desert where fresh vegetables were scarce, cooks turned gram flour into dumplings and simmered them in curd, both pantry staples that kept well in the heat. It is now a regular in Marwari homes and on Rajasthani thalis everywhere.

    The gatte are made from besan seasoned with ajwain, chilli and a little curd and oil, shaped into logs, boiled until firm and sliced into rounds. They are then simmered in a curd-based gravy tempered with cumin, hing, fennel and red chilli. The gatte are soft yet firm, absorbing the tangy, spicy gravy, which is thin enough to soak into rice or roti.

    It is eaten with phulkas, bajra roti or rice, often as part of a thali with dal and kadhi. It is also a popular dish during Jain and fasting-adjacent meals when cooked without onion and garlic. The gatte can be boiled a few hours ahead and kept covered, so the final cooking takes just fifteen minutes. Keep the gravy thin; it thickens as it stands.

    At a glance

    RegionRajasthan
    CuisineRajasthani
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time60 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbesan / curd / ajwain / red chilli

    Ingredients

    For the gatte

    • 1 cup besan
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1/2 tsp coriander powder
    • A pinch of hing
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 2 tbsp curd
    • 1 to 2 tbsp water

    For the gravy

    • 1 cup curd
    • 1 tsp besan
    • 1 1/2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 3 tbsp oil or ghee
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/2 tsp saunf
    • 2 dried red chillies
    • 1 tsp ginger paste
    • 1 green chilli, chopped
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 1/2 tsp kasuri methi
    • Salt to taste
    • Chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Mix besan with all the gatte spices and salt. Add oil and curd and knead with a spoon of water into a firm, smooth dough.
    2. Divide into 4 portions and roll each into a log about 1.5 cm thick.
    3. Bring 4 cups water to a boil, slide in the logs and cook on medium for 12 to 15 minutes. They are done when they float and look slightly glossy, with small bubbles on the surface.
    4. Lift out, reserve the cooking water, cool the logs for 5 minutes and slice into 1.5 cm rounds.
    5. Whisk curd with besan, coriander powder, chilli powder and turmeric until smooth.
    6. Heat oil in a kadai on medium. Add hing, cumin, saunf and dried red chillies; when they crackle, add ginger paste and green chilli for 30 seconds.
    7. Lower the heat and add the curd mixture, stirring constantly until it comes to a boil, about 4 minutes. Add 1 1/2 cups of the reserved gatte water and salt.
    8. Add the gatte and simmer 10 minutes until they swell slightly and the gravy thickens. Finish with garam masala, kasuri methi and coriander.

    Tips

    • The gatte dough should be firm; soft dough breaks while boiling.
    • The besan-flavoured cooking water gives the gravy body – do not discard it.
    • Shallow-fry the sliced gatte until golden before adding for a richer version.

    Serve with

    Phulkas, bajra roti or steamed rice.

  • Laal Maas

    Laal maas, or red meat, comes from the Rajput royal kitchens, where it was originally made with wild boar or venison brought back from hunts. The strong chilli and garlic masked the gamey flavour of the meat, and the dish became a symbol of Rajasthani bravado. Today it is made with goat, and Jodhpur and Jaisalmer are famous for their versions.

    Its fiery red colour comes from Mathania chillies, a variety grown near Jodhpur that is deep red, aromatic and genuinely hot. The mutton is cooked slowly in ghee with yogurt, whole spices and plenty of garlic, until the gravy is thin, intensely red and topped with a layer of chilli-tinted ghee. A smoky finish from a hot coal is traditional.

    It is served with bajra roti, plain rice or makki ki roti, and a glass of buttermilk to cool the heat. It is a dish for winter feasts and gatherings rather than everyday meals. Mathania chillies can be hard to find outside Rajasthan; a blend of Kashmiri chillies for colour and Byadgi or a few hotter chillies for heat works well. Deseeding them controls the heat without losing the colour.

    At a glance

    RegionRajasthan
    CuisineRajasthani
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time90 minutes
    Total time110 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / Mathania red chillies / yogurt / garlic / ghee

    Ingredients

    For the chilli paste

    • 15 to 20 dried Mathania red chillies (or 10 Kashmiri + 6 Byadgi), deseeded and soaked in hot water 30 minutes
    • 15 garlic cloves

    For the curry

    • 750 g bone-in mutton, curry cut
    • 1 cup curd, whisked
    • 1/2 cup ghee
    • 2 large onions, thinly sliced
    • 4 green cardamom, 2 black cardamom, 6 cloves, 2 bay leaves
    • 2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 cups hot water
    • Chopped coriander

    For the dhungar

    • 1 piece charcoal
    • 1 tsp ghee
    • 2 cloves

    Method

    1. Grind the soaked chillies with garlic and 2 tbsp of the soaking water to a smooth paste.
    2. Marinate the mutton with curd, half the chilli paste, coriander powder, turmeric and salt for at least 1 hour.
    3. Heat ghee in a heavy pot on medium. Add the whole spices and let them sizzle, then add onions and fry 10 to 12 minutes until golden brown.
    4. Add the remaining chilli paste and fry on low for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring, until the raw garlic smell goes and the ghee turns deep red.
    5. Add the marinated mutton and cook on medium-high for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring often, until the meat is seared and the marinade has thickened and starts to leave ghee.
    6. Pour in the hot water, bring to a boil, then cover and simmer on low for 60 to 70 minutes until the mutton is tender and the gravy is thin and red with ghee floating on top.
    7. For the dhungar, heat the charcoal on a flame until glowing. Place it in a small steel bowl set in the curry, add cloves and ghee on top, and cover the pot tightly for 5 minutes. Remove the bowl.
    8. Garnish with coriander and serve.

    Tips

    • Taste the chilli paste before using it; Mathania heat varies from batch to batch, so adjust the quantity.
    • Fry the chilli paste patiently on low heat; rushing it makes the curry bitter.
    • Laal maas tastes better after resting for a few hours.

    Serve with

    Bajra roti or steamed rice, with chaas and sliced onion.

  • Dal Baati Churma

    Dal baati churma is the defining meal of Rajasthan. Baati, a hard, round wheat bread, was ideal for the desert: it could be buried in hot sand or embers to bake and kept for days without spoiling, which made it useful for travelling traders and Rajput soldiers. Churma is said to have been discovered when a baati fell into jaggery and ghee and was crushed into sweet crumbs.

    The baatis are crisp outside and dense and crumbly within, made with coarse atta, semolina and generous ghee, then soaked in more melted ghee after baking. Panchmel dal combines five lentils, cooked thick and tempered with ghee, cumin, hing and dried red chillies. Churma is crushed fried baati mixed with ghee, sugar or jaggery, cardamom and nuts.

    It is the centrepiece of weddings, festivals and family gatherings, and is eaten by breaking the baati, pouring dal and ghee over it, and eating a bite of churma between mouthfuls. The baatis can be baked a few hours ahead and warmed before serving, while the dal and churma keep well. It is a filling meal, best followed by a nap. Garlic chutney and a glass of buttermilk are the customary sides.

    At a glance

    RegionRajasthan
    CuisineRajasthani
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time45 minutes
    Cook time75 minutes
    Total time120 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientswhole wheat flour / mixed lentils / ghee / sugar

    Ingredients

    For the baati (12)

    • 3 cups coarse whole wheat atta
    • 1/2 cup sooji
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp baking soda
    • 1/2 cup ghee, plus 1 cup melted ghee for dipping
    • About 3/4 cup warm milk or water

    For the panchmel dal

    • 1/4 cup each: toor dal, chana dal, moong dal, urad dal, masoor dal, soaked 1 hour
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 3 tbsp ghee
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 3 dried red chillies
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 green chillies, chopped
    • 2 tomatoes, chopped
    • 1 1/2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • Chopped coriander

    For the churma

    • 3 baatis, set aside after baking
    • 4 tbsp ghee
    • 1/2 cup powdered sugar or grated jaggery
    • 1/2 tsp green cardamom powder
    • 2 tbsp chopped almonds and cashews

    Method

    1. Mix atta, sooji, ajwain, salt and soda. Rub in 1/2 cup ghee until the mixture holds together when pressed. Add milk gradually and knead into a stiff dough. Rest 15 minutes.
    2. Divide into 12 balls, flatten slightly and press a thumb in the centre of each. Bake on a tray in an oven preheated to 200 C for 35 to 40 minutes, turning halfway, until golden-brown with cracks on the surface and hard when tapped.
    3. While baking, pressure cook the dals with 4 cups water, turmeric and salt for 3 whistles. Whisk lightly; the dal should be thick but not completely smooth.
    4. Heat ghee in a pan on medium, add hing, cumin and dried red chillies, then ginger-garlic paste and green chillies for a minute.
    5. Add tomatoes, coriander and chilli powder and cook 5 minutes until soft. Pour in the dal, simmer 10 minutes and finish with garam masala and coriander.
    6. Crack 9 hot baatis gently and immerse them in the melted ghee for a few minutes, then lift out.
    7. For churma, break the remaining 3 baatis and grind to coarse crumbs. Warm 4 tbsp ghee, add the crumbs and roast on low 3 to 4 minutes until fragrant. Cool slightly and mix in sugar, cardamom and nuts.
    8. Serve the ghee-soaked baatis with hot dal poured over and churma on the side.

    Tips

    • Coarse atta and ghee rubbed in well give the baati its crumbly interior.
    • Bafla baati is a variation: boil the baatis for 10 minutes before baking for a softer result.
    • Store leftover churma in an airtight jar for up to a week.

    Serve with

    Garlic chutney, kachumber salad and buttermilk.

  • Litti Chokha

    Litti chokha is the signature dish of Bihar and eastern Uttar Pradesh, once a travellers' meal because it keeps well and needs no utensils to cook. It is said that soldiers and farmers baked littis in the embers of cow-dung fires, and today the street vendors of Patna still roast them over coal in wide clay ovens.

    The litti is a ball of whole wheat dough stuffed with sattu, roasted gram flour, mixed with mustard oil, garlic, ginger, ajwain, lemon, green chillies and the sour tang of pickle masala. Roasted until the crust is firm and slightly charred, it is cracked and dipped in ghee. Chokha is the smoky accompaniment: fire-roasted brinjal, tomato and boiled potato mashed with raw mustard oil, garlic and onion.

    It is eaten for lunch or dinner, at festivals and picnics, and has become popular across North India. The pungency of raw mustard oil is essential to both parts. An oven gives good results at home, though nothing quite matches the smoky flavour of coal-roasted littis. The chokha can be made while the littis bake, so both are ready together and can be served piping hot.

    At a glance

    RegionBihar
    CuisineBihari
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time45 minutes
    Total time85 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientswhole wheat flour / sattu / brinjal / tomato / mustard oil

    Ingredients

    For the litti dough

    • 2 cups whole wheat atta
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp ghee
    • About 3/4 cup water

    For the sattu filling

    • 1 1/2 cups chana sattu
    • 1 small onion, finely chopped
    • 4 garlic cloves, minced
    • 1 inch ginger, grated
    • 2 green chillies, chopped
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • 1/2 tsp kalonji (nigella)
    • 2 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 tbsp achar masala from mango pickle
    • 3 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 3/4 tsp salt
    • 2 to 3 tbsp water

    For the chokha

    • 1 large brinjal (about 400 g)
    • 3 tomatoes
    • 2 potatoes, boiled and peeled
    • 1 small onion, finely chopped
    • 4 garlic cloves, minced
    • 2 green chillies, chopped
    • 2 tbsp raw mustard oil
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • Salt to taste

    To serve

    • 1/2 cup melted ghee

    Method

    1. Knead atta, ajwain, salt, ghee and water into a stiff, smooth dough. Rest 20 minutes.
    2. Mix all filling ingredients, adding water a spoon at a time until the sattu holds together when pressed but is still crumbly.
    3. Divide the dough into 10 balls. Flatten each into a cup, fill with 2 tbsp sattu, seal and roll into a smooth ball.
    4. Bake on coals or in an oven preheated to 200 C for 30 to 35 minutes, turning every 10 minutes, until the littis are firm, golden-brown and sound hollow when tapped. A gas tandoor or appe pan on low heat also works.
    5. For the chokha, rub the brinjal and tomatoes with a little oil and roast directly on a gas flame, turning often, until charred all over – about 12 minutes for the brinjal, 5 for the tomatoes. Cover to steam, then peel.
    6. Mash the brinjal, tomatoes and potatoes together. Mix in onion, garlic, green chillies, raw mustard oil, coriander and salt.
    7. Crack each hot litti slightly with your fingers and dip it in or brush generously with melted ghee. Serve with chokha.

    Tips

    • Raw mustard oil in both the filling and the chokha gives the authentic pungency; do not cook it.
    • If the sattu filling is too dry, the litti will taste dusty; it should clump when squeezed.
    • Achar masala from the pickle jar adds the characteristic tang – use a little oil from the pickle too.

    Serve with

    Baingan-tomato chokha, green chutney and ghee.

  • Aloo ke Gutke

    Aloo ke gutke is the signature potato dish of Kumaon, the eastern hill region of Uttarakhand. Potatoes grow well in the mountains, and every home has a version of this quick stir-fry, served as a snack with tea, at festivals and in the street stalls of Almora, Nainital and Haldwani.

    What makes it distinctly Kumaoni is jakhya, the tiny seeds of a wild mustard-like plant that crackle in hot oil and give a nutty crunch. Mustard oil, dried red chillies and generous amounts of red chilli powder make it hot and pungent, while fresh coriander and a pinch of turmeric balance it. The potatoes should be soft inside with crisp, spiced edges.

    Gutke are eaten with puri or bhang ki chutney (made from hemp seeds), alongside raita, or simply as a snack with tea. They are a common offering at Kumaoni gatherings. Because the potatoes are boiled ahead, it is one of the quickest pahadi dishes to make, ready within fifteen minutes on the stove. If jakhya is unavailable, cumin is the usual substitute, though the flavour will be milder and less distinctive.

    At a glance

    RegionUttarakhand
    CuisineKumaoni
    DietVegan
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time15 minutes
    Total time35 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspotato / jakhya seeds / mustard oil / red chilli

    Ingredients

    • 600 g potatoes, boiled, peeled and cut into 2.5 cm cubes
    • 3 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1 tsp jakhya seeds (or 1 tsp cumin seeds if unavailable)
    • 3 dried red chillies, broken
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp amchur (optional)
    • 1/2 cup finely chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Boil the potatoes until just tender, about 12 minutes; they should hold their shape. Cool completely, peel and cut into cubes.
    2. Heat mustard oil in a heavy kadai until it smokes, then let it cool for 30 seconds and set the heat to medium.
    3. Add jakhya seeds and dried red chillies. Let them crackle and darken for 15 to 20 seconds without burning.
    4. Add hing, then immediately the turmeric, chilli powder and coriander powder. Stir for 10 seconds.
    5. Add the potato cubes and salt. Toss gently to coat every piece with the spiced oil.
    6. Cook on medium for 8 to 10 minutes, turning occasionally with a flat spatula, until the edges turn golden and slightly crisp.
    7. Add amchur if using and toss in most of the coriander. Garnish with the rest and serve.

    Tips

    • Cooled, day-old boiled potatoes give the best texture and do not break.
    • Jakhya burns quickly; have the spices ready before you add it.
    • Pahadi potatoes, if you can find them, are firm and slightly sweet.

    Serve with

    Puri or roti, with bhang ki chutney and raita.

  • Kafuli

    Kafuli is the green curry of Garhwal, the western half of Uttarakhand, made in hill homes with whatever leafy greens grow nearby: spinach, fenugreek and sometimes mustard or lai. It was traditionally cooked in a heavy iron kadai, which deepens the colour and adds iron to the dish, a real benefit in mountain diets.

    It is thicker and more rustic than palak paneer, closer to a thick gravy. The greens are boiled, ground and simmered with a paste of soaked rice (or besan), which gives body and a slightly creamy texture. Mustard oil, garlic, ginger, cumin and a pinch of hing give it a pungent, earthy flavour, with a little curd sometimes added for tang.

    Kafuli is eaten with steamed rice or with mandua (finger millet) roti, a classic Garhwali pairing. It is home food, simple, nourishing and quick once the greens are cleaned. Choose young, tender spinach and fresh methi with small leaves; they cook faster and taste less bitter. A spoon of the hot kafuli over plain rice with a little pickle is one of the simplest and most satisfying pahadi meals.

    At a glance

    RegionUttarakhand
    CuisineGarhwali
    DietVegan
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsspinach / fenugreek leaves / rice / mustard oil

    Ingredients

    • 400 g spinach, chopped
    • 100 g fresh methi (fenugreek) leaves, chopped
    • 2 tbsp raw rice, soaked 1 hour
    • 3 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 2 dried red chillies
    • 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
    • 1 inch ginger, finely chopped
    • 2 green chillies, chopped
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 cup water
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Wash the spinach and methi several times. Boil 2 cups water, add the greens and cook 4 to 5 minutes until soft. Drain, reserving the water.
    2. Grind the cooled greens to a coarse puree. Separately grind the soaked rice with 3 tbsp water to a smooth paste.
    3. Heat mustard oil in an iron kadai until it smokes, then lower to medium. Add hing, cumin and dried red chillies.
    4. Add garlic, ginger and green chillies and fry 1 to 2 minutes until the garlic turns light golden.
    5. Add turmeric, coriander powder and the greens puree. Cook 5 minutes, stirring.
    6. Mix the rice paste with 1 cup of the reserved water and pour it in, stirring constantly to avoid lumps. Add salt.
    7. Simmer on low for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring often, until the kafuli thickens to a smooth, pourable consistency and the raw rice taste is gone. Add more reserved water if it gets too thick.
    8. Taste for salt and serve hot, straight from the kadai.

    Tips

    • Besan can replace the rice paste – whisk 2 tbsp with water before adding.
    • An iron kadai gives the authentic dark colour, but do not leave the cooked kafuli sitting in it for long.
    • Use less methi if you prefer a less bitter taste.

    Serve with

    Steamed rice or mandua (finger millet) roti.

  • Chana Madra

    Madra is a cornerstone of Himachali dham, the traditional festive meal served on leaf plates at weddings and temple fairs in Chamba, Kangra and Mandi. It is cooked by botis, hereditary Brahmin cooks, in large brass vessels over wood fires, and the dham menu would be incomplete without it. Cooking it is a matter of pride.

    The dish is defined by yogurt slowly cooked in plenty of ghee with whole spices: cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, bay leaf and sometimes a pinch of nutmeg. There is no onion, garlic or tomato. The gravy is pale, creamy and mildly tangy, coating soft chickpeas, and the aroma of ghee and cardamom fills the kitchen. Kidney beans or a mix of vegetables can be used instead of chana.

    It is eaten with steamed rice as part of the dham, alongside dishes like rajmah, kadhi and meetha bhat. At home it is made for festivals and special lunches. It is rich, so a small helping is enough. The key is slow, patient cooking of the curd in ghee, stirring constantly so it does not split. Leftovers keep well for a day in the fridge and can be loosened with a splash of warm water when reheated.

    At a glance

    RegionHimachal Pradesh
    CuisineHimachali
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time45 minutes
    Total time60 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschickpeas / yogurt / ghee / cardamom

    Ingredients

    • 1 cup kabuli chana, soaked overnight
    • 1 1/2 cups thick curd
    • 1 tbsp besan
    • 4 tbsp ghee
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 4 green cardamom, 1 black cardamom, 4 cloves, 1 small cinnamon stick, 2 bay leaves
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp black pepper powder
    • 1/4 tsp green cardamom powder
    • A pinch of nutmeg
    • 1 tbsp chopped raisins (optional)
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the chana with 3 cups water and salt for 1 whistle on high and 15 minutes on low until soft but holding shape. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water.
    2. Whisk the curd with besan, turmeric, coriander powder and chilli powder until completely smooth.
    3. Heat ghee in a heavy kadai on medium. Add hing, cumin, cardamoms, cloves, cinnamon and bay leaves and let them sizzle 30 seconds.
    4. Add the drained chana and fry in the ghee for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring gently, until lightly coated and fragrant.
    5. Lower the heat to the minimum. Pour in the curd mixture slowly, stirring constantly in one direction.
    6. Keep stirring on low for 8 to 10 minutes until the curd comes to a boil and thickens without splitting.
    7. Add the reserved chana water a little at a time to reach a medium-thick gravy. Simmer 10 to 12 minutes until ghee shows on the surface.
    8. Finish with black pepper, cardamom powder, nutmeg and raisins. Rest 5 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Besan stabilises the curd; constant stirring until it boils does the rest.
    • Do not skimp on ghee – it is central to the flavour of madra.
    • Try rajma madra or a mixed-vegetable madra with the same method.

    Serve with

    Steamed rice, as part of a Himachali dham.

  • Siddu

    Siddu is the comfort food of the Himachal hills, particularly the Kullu, Mandi and Shimla regions, where long, cold winters call for warm, filling food. Families make it on snowy days and festivals, and in recent years roadside stalls on the Manali highway have made it popular with tourists as well.

    The dough is wheat flour leavened with yeast and left to rise in a warm corner, then filled and steamed. Fillings vary from village to village: crushed walnuts and poppy seeds with green chilli and coriander, soaked urad dal ground with spices, or sweet versions with jaggery. Steamed siddu is soft, fluffy and slightly chewy, with a nutty, savoury centre.

    It is torn open and served with a generous pour of ghee, along with green chutney or dal. Leftovers are often pan-fried the next morning for breakfast. Siddu can be made a day ahead and re-steamed, and the walnut filling keeps in the fridge for several days. The steaming takes about twenty minutes, so plan for the dough to rise before you start, ideally in a warm kitchen.

    At a glance

    RegionHimachal Pradesh
    CuisineHimachali
    DietVegetarian
    CourseBread
    Prep time120 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time145 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientswhole wheat flour / walnuts / poppy seeds / ghee / yeast

    Ingredients

    For the dough

    • 2 cups whole wheat atta
    • 1 tsp instant dry yeast
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp oil
    • About 3/4 cup lukewarm water

    For the filling

    • 1/2 cup walnuts
    • 3 tbsp khus khus (poppy seeds), soaked 1 hour
    • 2 green chillies
    • 3 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 1/2 inch ginger
    • 1 tsp roasted cumin powder
    • 1/2 tsp amchur or anardana powder
    • 1/2 tsp salt

    To serve

    • 4 tbsp ghee, melted
    • Green chutney

    Method

    1. Dissolve sugar and yeast in 1/4 cup lukewarm water and leave 10 minutes until frothy.
    2. Mix atta and salt, add the yeast mixture and oil, and knead with the remaining water into a soft, smooth dough, about 8 minutes. Cover and leave in a warm place for 1 1/2 hours until doubled.
    3. For the filling, drain the poppy seeds and grind with walnuts, green chillies, coriander, ginger, cumin, amchur and salt to a coarse, thick paste with no added water.
    4. Punch the dough down and divide into 6 balls. Roll each into a thick oval about 12 cm long.
    5. Spread a heaped tablespoon of filling on one half, fold over, and seal the edges by pinching firmly. Shape into a slightly flattened oval bun.
    6. Cover and rest the filled siddus 15 minutes so they rise again.
    7. Steam in a greased steamer or idli-stand over boiling water on medium-high for 18 to 20 minutes, until puffed and firm. A skewer inserted into the dough should come out clean.
    8. Cut each siddu open across the top, pour in ghee and serve hot.

    Tips

    • Keep the dough soft; stiff dough makes dense siddus.
    • A urad dal filling (soaked dal ground with ginger, garlic and spices) is the other traditional option.
    • Brush the steamer plate with oil or line it with a banana leaf so they do not stick.

    Serve with

    Plenty of ghee, green chutney or a bowl of dal.

  • Jalebi

    Jalebi likely arrived in India from West Asia, where a similar sweet called zalabiya is described in medieval Arabic cookbooks. By the fifteenth century it was well established in Indian kitchens, and today it is the quintessential halwai sweet of North India, fried in great spirals in front of the shop every morning.

    Proper jalebi is crisp on the outside, with hollow tubes filled with warm syrup that bursts when bitten. The batter is fermented, traditionally overnight, which gives a slight tang that balances the sweetness. A little saffron or food colour gives the bright orange tint, and the syrup is scented with cardamom and a touch of lemon to stop it crystallising.

    It is eaten hot for breakfast with rabri or milk in Uttar Pradesh, with poha in Indore, and as a festival sweet on Dussehra and Independence Day. It is best within minutes of frying. At home, a squeeze bottle makes piping easy, and the batter can be fermented overnight so the jalebis are ready for breakfast. The syrup should be warm but not boiling, and the jalebis should be crisp before they go in.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineUttar Pradesh
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientsmaida / curd / sugar / ghee / saffron

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1 cup maida
    • 1 tbsp fine sooji or 1 tbsp cornflour
    • 2 tbsp sour curd
    • 1/4 tsp baking soda (only for the quick method)
    • About 3/4 cup lukewarm water
    • A pinch of turmeric or a few saffron strands for colour

    For the syrup

    • 1 1/2 cups sugar
    • 3/4 cup water
    • 1/2 tsp green cardamom powder
    • A pinch of saffron
    • 1 tsp lemon juice

    For frying

    • Ghee or oil for shallow frying (about 3 cm deep)
    • A squeeze bottle or a thick cloth with a small hole

    Method

    1. Whisk maida, sooji, curd, colour and water into a smooth, thick batter, about the consistency of pancake batter that flows in a steady ribbon. Cover and leave in a warm place for 10 to 12 hours to ferment; it should be bubbly and slightly sour.
    2. For the syrup, boil sugar and water on medium until it reaches one-string consistency, about 6 to 7 minutes – a drop pressed between thumb and finger forms a single thread. Add cardamom, saffron and lemon juice. Keep it warm.
    3. Beat the fermented batter well for 2 minutes. If it has thinned, add a spoon of maida. (Quick method: add the soda now and use immediately.)
    4. Heat ghee in a wide, flat pan on medium, around 170 C. A drop of batter should rise steadily without browning instantly.
    5. Fill the squeeze bottle. Holding it just above the ghee, pipe 6 to 8 cm spirals from the centre outward, finishing with a cross stroke to hold them together.
    6. Fry 1 to 2 minutes per side, turning once, until crisp and light golden. They should feel firm, not soft.
    7. Lift out, drain for a second, and drop into the warm syrup. Soak 30 to 60 seconds, turning once, then lift out. Serve hot.

    Tips

    • Fry in small batches so the ghee temperature stays steady and every jalebi crisps evenly.
    • Too thin a batter spreads flat; too thick and it will not pipe smoothly.
    • Ghee gives the classic halwai flavour, but a neutral oil makes them crisper for longer.

    Serve with

    Hot with rabri or a glass of warm milk.