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  • Rabri

    Rabri is the slow-cooked milk sweet of Varanasi, Mathura and the Braj region, where halwais reduce huge iron kadais of milk over wood fires and gently fan the surface so cream forms in layers. Those layers, or lachhas, are lifted onto the sides of the pan and folded back in at the end, giving rabri its distinctive flaky, lacy texture.

    The taste is pure milk, deepened by long cooking, sweetened lightly and perfumed with cardamom, saffron and sometimes rose water. Rabri is thick but spoonable, with soft shreds of malai throughout. It is served chilled in kulhads, clay cups that add their own earthy aroma. The flavour is gentle and milky.

    It is eaten on its own after a meal, or poured over jalebi, malpua or gulab jamun. It is a festive offering on Janmashtami and Holi in Braj, and a winter-evening treat across Uttar Pradesh. Making it at home takes time but little skill; the trick is a wide pan and patience. Buffalo milk, with its higher fat, gives the thickest rabri and the most generous layers.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineUttar Pradesh
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time5 minutes
    Cook time90 minutes
    Total time95 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsfull-cream milk / sugar / cardamom / saffron

    Ingredients

    • 1.5 litres full-cream milk (buffalo milk is best)
    • 1/3 cup sugar
    • 1/2 tsp green cardamom powder
    • A pinch of saffron soaked in 1 tbsp warm milk
    • 1 tbsp pistachios, slivered
    • 1 tbsp almonds, slivered
    • 1/2 tsp rose water (optional)

    Method

    1. Pour the milk into a wide, heavy kadai and bring to a boil on medium heat, stirring so it does not catch.
    2. Lower to a gentle simmer. Do not stir the surface; let a layer of cream form, 2 to 3 minutes.
    3. With a flat spatula, gently push the cream layer to the side of the kadai so it sticks there. Repeat each time a new layer forms, occasionally fanning the surface to speed up the skin.
    4. Every few minutes, scrape the bottom gently to prevent scorching, without breaking the floating cream.
    5. Continue for 70 to 80 minutes until the milk reduces to about a quarter of its volume and the sides are thick with cream layers.
    6. Add sugar and stir gently until dissolved, about 2 minutes. Scrape the cream from the sides into the milk with the spatula, keeping the layers in pieces.
    7. Stir in cardamom, saffron and rose water, cook 2 more minutes and switch off.
    8. Cool, then chill for at least 3 hours. Serve in kulhads garnished with pistachios and almonds.

    Tips

    • A wide pan gives more surface area for cream layers to form.
    • Add sugar only at the end – added early it prevents good malai formation.
    • If time is short, a little khoya or milk powder thickens rabri faster, though the lachhas will be fewer.

    Serve with

    Chilled in kulhads, or poured over hot jalebi or malpua.

  • Malai Kulfi

    Kulfi dates to the Mughal era, when milk thickened with sugar and nuts was packed into metal cones and frozen in pots of ice and saltpetre brought down from the Himalayas. Lucknow, Delhi and Agra still have old kulfi shops, and in summer the kulfiwala with his red cloth-covered matka is a fixture of North Indian evenings.

    Unlike ice cream, kulfi is never churned or whipped. Milk is reduced for a long time until it is thick and slightly caramelised, giving a dense, chewy texture and a deep cooked-milk flavour. Cardamom, saffron and pistachio are classic, and malai kulfi celebrates the cream itself with little else added.

    It is served on a stick, sliced into rounds on a leaf plate, or with falooda and rose syrup. Making it at home takes patience at the stove but no special equipment. The secret is patience: slowly reduced milk gives the dense, caramelised texture that sets kulfi apart. Clay matkas give the most traditional look and a faint earthy aroma, but small steel cups or even paper cups work perfectly well.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineMughlai
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time75 minutes
    Total time90 minutes
    Serves8
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsfull-cream milk / sugar / cardamom / saffron / pistachio

    Ingredients

    • 1.5 litres full-cream milk
    • 1/2 cup sugar
    • 1/2 tsp green cardamom powder
    • A generous pinch of saffron soaked in 1 tbsp warm milk
    • 2 tbsp pistachios, finely chopped
    • 1 tbsp almonds, finely chopped
    • 1/4 cup khoya, crumbled (optional, for richness)

    Method

    1. Pour the milk into a wide, heavy-bottomed kadai and bring to a boil on medium-high, stirring.
    2. Lower the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring every few minutes and scraping the sides and bottom. Pull the malai that forms on top and on the sides back into the milk.
    3. Continue for 60 to 70 minutes until the milk reduces to about one-third (500 ml), turns pale cream in colour and coats the back of a spoon thickly.
    4. Add sugar and khoya and cook 5 to 7 more minutes until dissolved and the mixture thickens again.
    5. Stir in cardamom, saffron milk, pistachios and almonds. Switch off and cool completely, stirring now and then so no skin forms.
    6. Pour into kulfi moulds, small clay matkas or steel cups. Cover with foil and freeze 8 hours or overnight.
    7. To unmould, roll the mould between your palms or dip it briefly in warm water, then slide the kulfi out. Slice or serve on sticks.

    Tips

    • A wide pan reduces milk faster; a heavy base prevents scorching.
    • For a quicker version, add a tin of condensed milk to 1 litre milk and reduce for 25 minutes.
    • Kulfi keeps for 2 weeks in the freezer, well covered.

    Serve with

    On its own, or with falooda and rose syrup.

  • Chicken Changezi

    Chicken changezi is a dish of Old Delhi's Mughlai eateries around Jama Masjid and Matia Mahal. The name nods to Changez Khan, but the dish is a modern restaurant creation, a cousin of butter chicken with a heavier hand of browned onions, cashews and cream. Places like Karim's and the smaller dhabas of the area made it a late-night favourite.

    The chicken is marinated and grilled or fried until charred, then finished in a thick, buttery gravy that is richer and spicier than makhani. Fried onions and cashews give body and sweetness, tomatoes add tang, and green chillies, garam masala and a whisper of kewra provide the Old Delhi character.

    It is eaten with rumali roti, khamiri roti or naan, usually as part of a meat-heavy feast. A small portion is plenty; this is not an everyday curry. It reheats well, and the flavours deepen overnight, so it can be made a day ahead for a party. The charred chicken is the key, so do not skip the searing step. A squeeze of lemon and a few rings of raw onion on the side cut through the richness.

    At a glance

    RegionDelhi
    CuisineMughlai
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time80 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / cashew / cream / onion / tomato

    Ingredients

    For the chicken

    • 800 g bone-in chicken, curry cut
    • 1/2 cup hung curd
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1 1/2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp oil

    For the gravy

    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 2 tbsp butter
    • 2 large onions, sliced
    • 20 cashews
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 3 tomatoes, pureed
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 1/3 cup cream
    • 1/2 tsp kewra water
    • Salt to taste
    • Chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Marinate the chicken with curd, ginger-garlic paste, chilli powder, garam masala, lemon and salt for at least 2 hours.
    2. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a heavy pan or tawa on high. Sear the chicken in batches, 4 to 5 minutes per side, until charred in places. Set aside. (Or grill at 230 C for 20 minutes.)
    3. In a pan, heat 3 tbsp oil and fry the onions on medium for 12 minutes until golden. Add cashews for the last 2 minutes. Cool and grind to a smooth paste with a little water.
    4. Heat butter in a heavy pot on medium. Add ginger-garlic paste and cook 1 minute, then the tomato puree with chilli powder, coriander, turmeric and salt. Cook 8 minutes until thick.
    5. Add the onion-cashew paste and cook on low, stirring, for 6 to 8 minutes until the gravy turns glossy and fat separates.
    6. Add 1 cup hot water and the seared chicken. Cover and simmer on low for 15 to 20 minutes until the chicken is cooked through.
    7. Add green chillies, garam masala and cream, simmer 3 minutes, then sprinkle kewra and coriander.

    Tips

    • Charring the chicken first gives the dish its smoky Old Delhi flavour.
    • Stir the onion-cashew paste constantly; it catches easily.
    • For extra richness, finish with a tablespoon of butter just before serving.

    Serve with

    Rumali roti, khamiri roti or butter naan.

  • Bedmi Puri with Aloo Sabzi

    Bedmi puri is the breakfast of Agra, Mathura and Old Delhi, where halwais fry them by the hundred from early morning and serve them in leaf bowls with a thin, peppery aloo sabzi and sometimes a side of halwa or jalebi. In Braj, the region around Mathura, bedmi aloo is also a staple of temple festivals and weddings.

    The puris are made from wheat flour kneaded with a paste of soaked urad dal, fennel, coriander, ginger and chilli, which makes them crisp, slightly coarse and full of flavour. The aloo sabzi that goes with them is runny and spicy, with tomatoes, crushed potatoes, fennel, kasuri methi and hing, made to be scooped up.

    It is weekend and festival food, especially in winter. A bedmi aloo breakfast is heavy and is often followed by a glass of lassi or a cup of strong chai. The dough can be prepared the night before and kept in the fridge, and the sabzi made while it rests. It is a meal for an unhurried Sunday, eaten slowly with plenty of conversation and tea.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineUttar Pradesh
    DietVegan
    CourseBreakfast
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time40 minutes
    Total time80 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientswhole wheat flour / urad dal / potato / tomato

    Ingredients

    For the bedmi dough

    • 2 cups whole wheat atta
    • 1/4 cup fine sooji
    • 1/2 cup skinless urad dal, soaked 4 hours
    • 1 inch ginger, 2 green chillies
    • 1 tsp saunf, coarsely crushed
    • 1 tsp coriander seeds, crushed
    • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • Water as needed
    • Oil for deep frying

    For the aloo sabzi

    • 5 potatoes, boiled and roughly broken by hand
    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp saunf
    • 1/2 tsp methi seeds
    • 1 inch ginger, grated
    • 2 green chillies, chopped
    • 3 tomatoes, finely chopped
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 1/2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp amchur
    • 1 tsp kasuri methi
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 3 cups hot water
    • Salt to taste
    • Chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Drain the urad dal and grind with ginger and green chillies to a coarse paste without water.
    2. Mix atta, sooji, saunf, coriander, chilli powder, hing, salt and oil. Add the dal paste and knead with a little water into a stiff dough. Rest 20 minutes.
    3. For the sabzi, heat oil in a pot on medium. Add hing, cumin, saunf and methi seeds; when the methi turns golden, add ginger and green chillies.
    4. Add tomatoes, turmeric, coriander powder, chilli powder and salt. Cook 6 to 8 minutes until the tomatoes are completely mushy.
    5. Add the broken potatoes and mash a few against the pan. Pour in hot water, bring to a boil and simmer 12 to 15 minutes until the gravy thickens slightly but stays runny.
    6. Stir in amchur, crushed kasuri methi and garam masala. Garnish with coriander.
    7. Divide the dough into 20 balls and roll each into a 10 cm puri, slightly thicker than a regular puri.
    8. Fry in hot oil, pressing gently so they puff, for about 1 minute per side until golden brown and crisp. Serve hot with the sabzi.

    Tips

    • Keep the dough stiff; soft dough makes oily puris.
    • The sabzi should be thin, so the puri can be dipped. Add hot water if it thickens on standing.
    • Halwais add a little sooji to the dough for extra crispness – do not skip it.

    Serve with

    Pickle, a glass of lassi, or jalebi for a full halwai breakfast.

  • Dahi Bhalla

    Dahi bhalla, the North Indian name for dahi vada, is a dish of festivals and summer afternoons. In Delhi it is sold in large trays at chaat shops, the bhallas swimming in curd, and at home it is a fixture of Holi, Diwali and family functions. It has ancient roots; dishes of lentil fritters in curd appear in early Indian texts.

    The bhallas are made from soaked urad dal ground to a light, airy batter, fried and then soaked in water so they become soft and sponge-like. Squeezed and submerged in sweetened, lightly salted curd, they turn melt-in-the-mouth. Tamarind chutney, green chutney, roasted cumin and red chilli add contrast. Everything is served well chilled.

    It is served cold, as a snack or as part of a festive meal, and is especially welcome on hot days. Bhallas can be fried a day ahead and soaked shortly before serving. A well-beaten batter is the secret to soft bhallas, and it is worth taking the time to whisk it by hand. The finished dish keeps well for a day in the fridge, though the toppings are best added just before serving.

    At a glance

    RegionDelhi
    CuisineDelhi street food
    DietVegetarian
    CourseStreet food
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsurad dal / curd / tamarind chutney / cumin

    Ingredients

    For the bhallas

    • 1 cup skinless urad dal, soaked 5 to 6 hours
    • 1/2 inch ginger
    • 1 green chilli
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • A pinch of hing
    • 1 tbsp chopped raisins and cashews (optional)
    • Oil for deep frying

    For the curd

    • 3 cups thick curd, chilled
    • 3 tbsp powdered sugar
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp black salt
    • 1/4 cup chilled milk

    To serve

    • 1/2 cup tamarind-date chutney
    • 1/4 cup green chutney
    • Roasted cumin powder
    • Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • Chaat masala
    • Chopped coriander and pomegranate seeds

    Method

    1. Drain the urad dal well and grind with ginger and green chilli using as little water as possible, 2 to 3 tbsp, to a smooth, thick batter.
    2. Add salt and hing and beat the batter vigorously with your hand in one direction for 5 minutes until it turns light and fluffy. A small drop should float in water.
    3. Stir in the raisins and cashews. Heat oil on medium. Drop spoonfuls of batter, or shape round bhallas with wet hands, into the oil.
    4. Fry on medium heat for 5 to 6 minutes, turning, until light golden and cooked through. Too hot and they stay raw inside.
    5. Transfer the hot bhallas straight into a bowl of lukewarm water with a pinch of salt. Soak 20 to 30 minutes until they are soft and swollen.
    6. Whisk the curd with sugar, salt, black salt and milk until smooth and creamy.
    7. Press each bhalla gently between your palms to squeeze out the water, place on a serving dish and pour the curd over to cover completely. Chill 30 minutes.
    8. Before serving, drizzle with both chutneys and sprinkle cumin, chilli powder, chaat masala, coriander and pomegranate.

    Tips

    • Beating the batter well is what makes the bhallas soft; no soda is needed.
    • Do not let the batter turn runny while grinding – add water a spoon at a time.
    • Fried, unsoaked bhallas freeze well; thaw and soak in warm water before using.

    Serve with

    Served chilled on its own, or alongside papdi chaat and aloo tikki.

  • Papdi Chaat

    Papdi chaat is one of the oldest and most loved chaats of Delhi, sold from carts and halwai shops all over the city. Its origins are often linked to Mughal-era Delhi, where chaat (from chatna, to lick) was believed to be a tasty remedy for the city's heavy food. Today it is the standard order alongside dahi bhalla and aloo tikki.

    The base is papdi, thin flaky crackers of maida flavoured with ajwain and fried crisp. They are topped with diced potato, boiled chickpeas, whisked sweetened curd and two chutneys, then showered with sev, onion, pomegranate, coriander and chaat masala. The magic is the contrast of crisp and soft, cold and spicy, sweet and sour.

    It is eaten as an afternoon or evening snack and is a fixture at weddings and parties. Assemble just before eating; papdi softens quickly under the curd. The papdis, chutneys and boiled potatoes and chickpeas can all be prepared in advance, so the final plate comes together in two minutes. Adjust the balance of sweet and green chutney to suit your taste, and do not forget the final shower of chaat masala.

    At a glance

    RegionDelhi
    CuisineDelhi street food
    DietVegetarian
    CourseStreet food
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientsmaida / curd / potato / chickpeas / tamarind chutney

    Ingredients

    For the papdi

    • 1 cup maida
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp oil or ghee
    • About 1/4 cup water
    • Oil for deep frying

    For the topping

    • 2 potatoes, boiled and diced
    • 1 cup boiled kabuli chana
    • 1 1/2 cups thick curd, whisked with 2 tbsp sugar and a pinch of salt
    • 1/2 cup tamarind-date chutney
    • 1/3 cup green chutney
    • 1 onion, finely chopped
    • 1/2 cup fine sev
    • 3 tbsp pomegranate seeds
    • Chaat masala, roasted cumin powder, red chilli powder
    • Chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Mix maida, ajwain and salt. Rub in the oil until the flour looks like breadcrumbs and holds when pressed.
    2. Add water gradually and knead into a stiff dough. Rest 15 minutes.
    3. Roll the dough thin, about 2 mm, and cut into 5 cm discs. Prick each disc several times with a fork so it does not puff.
    4. Heat oil on medium-low, around 150 C. Fry the papdis in batches for 4 to 5 minutes, turning, until crisp and pale golden. Low heat keeps them flaky. Drain and cool completely.
    5. Season the potatoes and chickpeas with a little salt, chaat masala and cumin.
    6. To assemble, arrange 6 to 8 papdis on a plate. Top with potato and chickpeas, then pour over generous spoonfuls of curd.
    7. Drizzle with tamarind and green chutneys, scatter onion, sev, pomegranate and coriander, and finish with chaat masala, cumin and chilli powder. Serve immediately.

    Tips

    • Papdi keeps for 2 weeks in an airtight jar; make a big batch.
    • Whisk the curd until completely smooth and chill it – cold curd over crisp papdi is the point.
    • Add boiled moong sprouts for extra crunch and protein.

    Serve with

    A cup of masala chai or chilled nimbu pani.

  • Pani Puri

    Golgappe in Delhi, pani puri in Mumbai, puchka in Kolkata: the snack has as many names as cities. North Indian vendors carry a large earthen pot of spiced water and a basket of puris, and customers stand in a semicircle as the vendor fills and hands out one puri at a time until they say stop. Delhi's version usually has two waters, spicy and sweet.

    The puri must be paper-thin and crisp so it shatters in the mouth. The filling is boiled potato and kala chana or boondi, and the pani is a sharp, cold blend of mint, coriander, green chilli, tamarind, black salt and roasted cumin. The pleasure is the burst of cold, tangy, spicy water with the crunch of the shell.

    It is street food eaten in the evening, and at home it is a party favourite, with a counter set up for everyone to fill their own. Bought puris are common, but homemade ones are well worth trying. Good puris and well-chilled pani make all the difference, so plan ahead and chill the water for a few hours.

    At a glance

    RegionDelhi
    CuisineDelhi street food
    DietVegan
    CourseStreet food
    Prep time45 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time75 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientssooji / potato / mint / tamarind / black chickpeas

    Ingredients

    For the puris (about 50)

    • 1 cup fine sooji (semolina)
    • 2 tbsp maida
    • A pinch of baking soda
    • 1/4 tsp salt
    • About 1/3 cup water
    • Oil for deep frying

    For the teekha pani

    • 1 cup mint leaves
    • 1/2 cup coriander leaves
    • 3 to 4 green chillies
    • 1 inch ginger
    • 3 tbsp thick tamarind pulp
    • 2 tsp roasted cumin powder
    • 1 1/2 tsp black salt
    • 1 tsp chaat masala
    • 1/2 tsp regular salt
    • 5 cups chilled water
    • 2 tbsp boondi (optional)

    For the meetha pani

    • 1/2 cup tamarind-date chutney
    • 1 cup water
    • 1/2 tsp roasted cumin powder
    • A pinch of black salt

    For the filling

    • 3 potatoes, boiled and diced small
    • 1/2 cup kala chana, soaked and boiled
    • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp roasted cumin powder
    • 1/2 tsp chaat masala
    • Salt to taste
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. For the puris, mix sooji, maida, soda and salt. Add water little by little and knead into a stiff dough. Cover with a damp cloth and rest 30 minutes, then knead again for 2 minutes until smooth.
    2. Roll a portion of dough very thin, about 1 mm, and cut out 5 cm discs. Keep the cut discs under a damp cloth so they do not dry.
    3. Heat oil to hot, around 180 C. Slide in 5 to 6 discs and press each gently with a slotted spoon so it puffs. Fry 1 to 2 minutes, turning, until crisp and light golden. Drain and cool completely.
    4. For the teekha pani, blend mint, coriander, chillies and ginger with 1/2 cup water to a smooth paste. Mix with tamarind pulp, spices and chilled water. Strain if you prefer clear pani, and chill for at least 1 hour. Add boondi just before serving.
    5. For the meetha pani, whisk the tamarind-date chutney with water, cumin and black salt.
    6. Toss the potatoes and chana with chilli powder, cumin, chaat masala, salt and coriander.
    7. To serve, crack a hole in the top of a puri with your thumb, add a teaspoon of filling, dip it in teekha or meetha pani and eat in one bite.

    Tips

    • Puris that do not puff were either rolled too thick or the oil was not hot enough.
    • Store cooled puris in an airtight tin; re-crisp in a warm oven for 5 minutes if they soften.
    • The pani tastes best ice-cold and made a few hours ahead, so the spices infuse.

    Serve with

    Extra chilled pani and a final sukha puri sprinkled with chaat masala.

  • Aloo Tikki Chaat

    Aloo tikki is the heart of Delhi chaat. Vendors in Chandni Chowk, Lajpat Nagar and every neighbourhood market cook big potato patties slowly on wide, shallow iron tawas, pressing them flat until a thick crust forms. They are then broken open on a leaf plate and loaded with toppings in a rapid, practised sequence.

    The tikki should be crisp and golden outside and soft inside, with a lightly spiced potato filling. The toppings bring every taste at once: sweet tamarind chutney, spicy green chutney, cool sweetened curd, warm chickpea ragda, crunchy onion, sev and pomegranate. Chaat masala and roasted cumin tie it together. Nothing is subtle about it.

    It is an evening snack, eaten standing at a stall or made at home for parties. Some versions stuff the tikki with spiced chana dal or peas for extra texture. The tikkis and ragda can be made in advance, and the toppings laid out so everyone can build their own plate. A wide, heavy tawa and a little patience are the only secrets to a crust as good as a street vendor's.

    At a glance

    RegionDelhi
    CuisineDelhi street food
    DietVegetarian
    CourseStreet food
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time60 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspotato / white peas / curd / tamarind chutney

    Ingredients

    For the tikki

    • 5 medium potatoes, boiled, peeled and grated
    • 3 tbsp cornflour or arrowroot
    • 1 green chilli, finely chopped
    • 1/2 inch ginger, grated
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 1/2 tsp roasted cumin powder
    • 1/2 tsp chaat masala
    • 3/4 tsp salt
    • Oil or ghee for shallow frying

    For the ragda

    • 1 cup dried white peas (safed matar), soaked overnight
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp roasted cumin powder
    • 1/2 tsp chaat masala

    For topping

    • 1 cup thick curd, whisked with 1 tbsp sugar
    • 1/2 cup tamarind-date chutney
    • 1/2 cup green chutney
    • 1 onion, finely chopped
    • 1/2 cup fine sev
    • 1/4 cup pomegranate seeds
    • Chaat masala, roasted cumin powder and red chilli powder
    • Chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the soaked white peas with turmeric, salt and 2 1/2 cups water for 3 whistles until soft. Mash a few peas, add cumin and chaat masala, and simmer 5 minutes to thicken.
    2. Mix the grated potatoes with cornflour, green chilli, ginger, coriander, cumin, chaat masala and salt. Knead into a smooth dough.
    3. Divide into 8 portions and shape into patties 1.5 cm thick with smooth edges.
    4. Heat a heavy tawa on medium and add 3 tbsp oil or ghee. Place the tikkis on it and cook without moving for 6 to 8 minutes until a deep golden crust forms.
    5. Flip carefully, add a little more oil around them and cook the other side for 6 to 7 minutes, pressing gently with the spatula. They should sound crisp when tapped.
    6. To assemble, place 2 tikkis on a plate and press them open slightly. Spoon ragda over them, then curd, tamarind chutney and green chutney.
    7. Top with onion, sev, pomegranate and coriander, and finish with a sprinkle of chaat masala, cumin and chilli powder. Serve at once.

    Tips

    • Use floury, older potatoes boiled a few hours ahead; fresh waxy potatoes make sticky tikkis.
    • Low, steady heat builds the crust; high heat burns the outside before it crisps.
    • Assemble only when ready to eat, or the tikkis lose their crunch.

    Serve with

    Extra chutneys on the side and a cup of masala chai.

  • Mutton Korma

    Korma means braising, and the Awadhi mutton korma is one of the foundation dishes of Lucknowi cooking. Unlike the creamy, nut-heavy restaurant kormas, the classic version is built on yogurt and a paste of deeply fried onions, cooked slowly so the meat absorbs the spices and the fat rises to the surface.

    The gravy is a rich brown, thick and glossy, with a warm aroma of cardamom, cloves, mace and a few drops of kewra. Heat is moderate, and the flavour comes from properly browned onions and slow cooking rather than heavy spice. The mutton should be tender enough to pull from the bone easily.

    Korma is a dish for Eid, weddings and Sunday lunches, eaten with sheermal, tandoori roti or plain rice. Lucknow's famous Idrees and Wahid shops serve it alongside biryani. Like most braised dishes, it tastes even better the next day, so it is a good choice when cooking for a gathering. Leftover gravy is delicious mopped up with a crisp paratha at breakfast.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineAwadhi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time80 minutes
    Total time105 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / yogurt / fried onions / ghee

    Ingredients

    • 750 g bone-in mutton, curry cut
    • 1 cup thick curd, whisked
    • 1/2 cup ghee or oil
    • 3 large onions, thinly sliced
    • 2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 4 green cardamom, 2 black cardamom, 6 cloves, 1 cinnamon stick, 2 bay leaves
    • 1 1/2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • 1/4 tsp mace and green cardamom powder
    • 10 almonds, soaked and peeled (optional)
    • 1/2 tsp kewra water
    • 1 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1 1/2 cups hot water

    Method

    1. Heat ghee in a heavy pot on medium. Fry the sliced onions for 15 minutes, stirring, until evenly deep golden brown. Lift them out, leaving the ghee behind.
    2. Grind the fried onions with 3 tbsp curd (and the almonds, if using) to a smooth paste.
    3. In the same ghee, add the whole spices and let them crackle for 30 seconds. Add the mutton and salt and sear on high for 8 to 10 minutes until browned.
    4. Add ginger-garlic paste and cook 2 minutes. Lower the heat and add chilli powder, coriander powder and turmeric with a splash of water; stir 1 minute.
    5. Add the remaining curd gradually, stirring constantly, then the onion paste. Cook on medium-low for 10 minutes until the masala thickens and ghee separates.
    6. Pour in the hot water, cover and cook on low for 50 to 60 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the mutton is tender and the gravy thick with ghee floating on top.
    7. Add garam masala, mace-cardamom powder and kewra. Cover and leave on the lowest heat for 5 minutes, then rest before serving.

    Tips

    • The colour and flavour of the korma come from the fried onions; uneven or burnt onions make it bitter.
    • Use goat meat from the shoulder for the best balance of fat and tenderness.
    • Pressure cooking (4 to 5 whistles) speeds things up; reduce the water to 1 cup.

    Serve with

    Sheermal, tandoori roti or plain basmati rice.

  • Seekh Kebab

    Seekh means skewer, and seekh kebabs reached North India with Central Asian and Persian cooks who roasted minced meat over open fires. In the bazaars of Lucknow, Delhi and Rampur they are cooked on long iron skewers over charcoal, the smoke drifting across the lanes in the evening, especially during Ramzan.

    The mince is kneaded with grated onion, ginger, garlic, green chilli, mint, coriander and a warm spice blend, then pressed onto skewers into long, even cylinders. Over charcoal the outside chars and crackles while the inside stays juicy. A little fat in the mince and a brush of butter while grilling keep them moist.

    They are served as a starter or a meal, with rumali roti or ulte tawe ka paratha, sliced onions, lemon and green chutney. Leftover seekh kebabs make an excellent kathi roll the next day. At home, a charcoal grill gives the best result, but a hot oven or even a heavy tawa works well. The mixture can be made in advance and kept chilled for up to a day before shaping.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineAwadhi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton mince / onion / green chilli / mint

    Ingredients

    • 500 g mutton mince (with some fat), minced twice
    • 1 medium onion, grated and squeezed dry
    • 1 tbsp ginger paste
    • 1 tbsp garlic paste
    • 3 green chillies, very finely chopped
    • 2 tbsp finely chopped mint
    • 3 tbsp finely chopped coriander
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp roasted cumin powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • 1/2 tsp black pepper powder
    • 2 tbsp roasted besan
    • 1 tbsp ghee
    • 1 tsp salt
    • Melted butter for basting
    • Chaat masala and lemon to finish

    Method

    1. Squeeze every bit of water from the grated onion in a cloth; wet onion makes the kebabs slide off the skewer.
    2. Combine the mince with all the ingredients except the butter and chaat masala. Knead vigorously for 5 minutes until the mixture is sticky and holds together.
    3. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour; cold mince binds better on skewers.
    4. Divide into 10 portions. With wet hands, wrap each portion around a flat metal skewer and press it into an even sausage about 12 cm long. Seal the ends well.
    5. Grill over medium-hot charcoal, or in an oven preheated to 240 C on a rack, for 10 to 12 minutes, turning every 3 minutes and basting with butter, until browned with charred spots.
    6. Without skewers, shape into logs and cook on a lightly greased tawa on medium heat for 8 to 10 minutes, rolling them so all sides brown.
    7. Slide the kebabs off, sprinkle with chaat masala and squeeze lemon over.

    Tips

    • Mincing twice gives the fine texture that clings to the skewer.
    • Do not over-grill; the kebabs are done when firm but still springy to the touch.
    • Chicken mince works too – add a beaten egg white to help it bind.

    Serve with

    Rumali roti or paratha, onion rings, lemon and mint chutney.