Author: Abhishek

  • Naga Smoked Pork with Bamboo Shoot

    Smoked pork with bamboo shoot is the dish most associated with Nagaland. Naga households traditionally hang strips of pork over the kitchen hearth for days or weeks, where the smoke dries and preserves the meat. Fermented bamboo shoot, prepared at home in every village, is the other pillar of the cuisine.

    The cooking is simple and the flavours bold. Pork is boiled with ginger, garlic and raja mircha, the king chilli, and the sour, pungent bamboo shoot is added to cut through the fat. There are no masala powders, and often no oil, since the pork releases its own. The result is smoky, sour and very hot, with tender meat and a little thick gravy.

    At a glance

    RegionNagaland
    CuisineNaga
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time70 minutes
    Total time90 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientssmoked pork / fermented bamboo shoot / king chilli / ginger

    Ingredients

    • 750 g smoked pork with fat, cut into 4 cm pieces
    • 1 cup fermented bamboo shoot, shredded
    • 2 tbsp ginger, crushed
    • 8 garlic cloves, crushed
    • 1 raja mircha (king chilli), slit, or 4-5 dried red chillies
    • 4 green chillies, slit
    • 2 tomatoes, chopped (optional)
    • 2 tbsp axone (fermented soybean) paste (optional)
    • 3 cups water
    • Salt to taste
    • 2 spring onions, chopped

    Method

    1. Wash the smoked pork in warm water to remove soot and excess salt.
    2. Put the pork in a heavy pot with ginger, garlic, the king chilli and 3 cups water. Bring to a boil, then cover and simmer on low heat for 40 minutes (or pressure cook for 4 whistles) until the pork is almost tender.
    3. Add the fermented bamboo shoot, green chillies, tomatoes and axone if using. Add salt carefully – smoked pork can already be salty.
    4. Simmer uncovered on medium-low heat for 20-25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the pork is very tender and the fat has rendered into the gravy.
    5. Keep cooking until most of the water evaporates and the gravy is thick and glossy, clinging to the meat.
    6. Taste, adjust salt, scatter spring onion and serve hot.

    Tips

    • Raja mircha is among the hottest chillies in the world – use half of one first and remove it once the dish is hot enough.
    • Without smoked pork, use pork belly and add a little smoked paprika, though it will not be the same.
    • Fermented bamboo shoot is sour and strong; rinse it once if you want a milder flavour.

    Serve with

    Sticky or plain steamed rice and boiled greens.

  • Eromba

    Eromba is one of the defining dishes of Meitei cooking in Manipur. Boiled vegetables – potato, beans, bamboo shoot, yongchak (stink beans) or pumpkin – are mashed with roasted chillies and ngari, the pungent fermented fish that Manipuris treasure. It is eaten with rice at lunch and dinner, a spoonful at a time.

    The taste is intense: smoky and very hot from roasted chillies, deeply savoury and funky from ngari, and freshened with herbs such as maroi (Chinese chives), coriander or the local mint-like toningkhok. It uses no oil at all, which is typical of Manipuri home cooking. The texture is rough, with soft vegetables and bits of fish crushed together by hand.

    At a glance

    RegionManipur
    CuisineManipuri
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time35 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspotato / ngari (fermented fish) / dried red chilli / french beans

    Ingredients

    • 2 medium potatoes, peeled and quartered
    • 1 cup french beans, cut into 5 cm pieces
    • 1/2 cup fermented bamboo shoot (optional)
    • 2-3 pieces ngari (fermented dried fish)
    • 4-6 dried red chillies (or 1 king chilli for real heat)
    • 2 tbsp chopped maroi (Chinese chives) or spring onion
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • Salt to taste
    • 2 cups water

    Method

    1. Boil the potatoes, beans and bamboo shoot in 2 cups salted water for 12-15 minutes until soft. Drain, keeping a few tablespoons of the water.
    2. Wrap the ngari in a small piece of banana leaf or foil and roast directly over a low flame for 1-2 minutes until fragrant. Alternatively, drop it into the vegetable water for the last 2 minutes of boiling.
    3. Roast the dried red chillies over a low flame or in a dry pan until they darken and smell smoky, 30-40 seconds. Do not let them turn black.
    4. In a large bowl, crush the roasted chillies and ngari together with a pinch of salt, using your fingers or a pestle, until coarse.
    5. Add the boiled vegetables and mash everything together by hand, adding a spoon or two of the cooking water to bind it into a rough paste.
    6. Mix in the maroi and coriander, adjust salt and serve at room temperature.

    Tips

    • Ngari is very pungent; open the window while roasting and start with less if you are new to it.
    • Wear gloves when mashing if using king chilli (umorok) – it burns the skin.
    • For a vegetarian version, leave out the ngari, though the dish loses its signature depth.

    Serve with

    Plain steamed rice with a light dal or ooti.

  • Thukpa

    Thukpa is a Tibetan noodle soup that became everyday food across Sikkim, Darjeeling, Ladakh and Arunachal Pradesh. In Gangtok's small eateries it arrives in a deep bowl with a side of fiery chilli paste, and on a cold, wet evening few things are more welcome. Thenthuk, with hand-pulled flat noodles, is a close cousin.

    The broth is light but deeply savoury, built from garlic, ginger, onion and tomato with a touch of soy sauce, and the noodles and vegetables are cooked in it just before serving. Chicken, pork or egg are common additions; this version uses vegetables. Each person adjusts their bowl with chilli sauce, lime and spring onion.

    At a glance

    RegionSikkim
    CuisineSikkimese
    DietVegan
    CourseSoup
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time40 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientswheat noodles / cabbage / carrot / tomato / garlic

    Ingredients

    • 150 g flat wheat noodles or egg-free hakka noodles
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 onion, thinly sliced
    • 1 tbsp chopped garlic
    • 1 tbsp chopped ginger
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tomato, chopped
    • 1 carrot, cut into thin strips
    • 1 cup cabbage, shredded
    • 1/2 cup french beans, sliced
    • 1/2 cup spinach leaves
    • 1 tbsp soy sauce
    • 1/2 tsp black pepper
    • 1/4 tsp cumin powder
    • 5 cups vegetable stock or water
    • Salt to taste
    • 2 spring onions, chopped
    • Lime wedges
    • Chilli paste to serve

    Method

    1. Cook the noodles in boiling salted water until just tender, 3-4 minutes. Drain, rinse in cold water and divide between bowls.
    2. Heat oil in a deep pan on medium heat. Fry the onion for 3-4 minutes until soft and lightly golden.
    3. Add garlic, ginger and green chillies and fry for 1 minute until fragrant.
    4. Add the tomato and cook for 3 minutes until soft, then add cumin powder and black pepper.
    5. Pour in the stock, add soy sauce and salt, and bring to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes.
    6. Add the carrot and beans and simmer for 3 minutes, then the cabbage for 2 minutes and the spinach for 30 seconds. The vegetables should stay bright and slightly crisp.
    7. Ladle the hot soup and vegetables over the noodles. Top with spring onion and serve with lime and chilli paste.

    Tips

    • Cook noodles separately and add the soup at the table – noodles left in the broth turn soft and starchy.
    • For chicken thukpa, simmer 250 g chicken on the bone in the stock for 25 minutes, shred and return.
    • A few Sichuan peppercorns (timur) crushed into the broth give the authentic tingling note.

    Serve with

    Veg momos and a spoon of red chilli paste.

  • Veg Steamed Momos

    Momos came to Sikkim, Darjeeling and the Himalayan belt with Tibetan and Newar traditions, and in Gangtok they are the default snack, sold from tiny shops and street steamers on every corner. The original filling is usually pork or beef, but vegetable momos with cabbage and onion are just as popular in the hills and across the rest of India.

    A good momo has a thin, soft wrapper that is slightly chewy, with a juicy filling seasoned simply with garlic, ginger, spring onion and a little soy sauce or salt. The real kick comes from the dipping sauce: a fiery red achar of tomatoes and dried chillies, sometimes with timur, the Himalayan Sichuan pepper.

    At a glance

    RegionSikkim
    CuisineSikkimese
    DietVegan
    CourseSnack
    Prep time45 minutes
    Cook time15 minutes
    Total time60 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientsmaida / cabbage / carrot / onion

    Ingredients

    For the dough

    • 2 cups maida (about 250 g)
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1 tsp oil
    • About 1/2 cup water

    For the filling

    • 2 cups cabbage, very finely chopped
    • 1 carrot, grated
    • 1 onion, finely chopped
    • 4 spring onions, chopped
    • 1 tbsp finely chopped garlic
    • 1 tbsp finely chopped ginger
    • 1 green chilli, finely chopped
    • 1 tsp soy sauce
    • 1/2 tsp black pepper
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • Salt to taste

    For the tomato achar

    • 3 tomatoes
    • 6 dry red chillies, soaked in hot water
    • 4 garlic cloves
    • 1/4 tsp timur or Sichuan pepper (optional)
    • 1 tbsp oil
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Knead the maida with salt, oil and water into a firm but smooth dough. Cover and rest for 30 minutes.
    2. Mix the cabbage with 1/2 tsp salt, leave for 10 minutes, then squeeze out as much water as possible. This keeps the filling from going soggy.
    3. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a wok on high heat. Stir-fry garlic, ginger and chilli for 30 seconds, then add the onion, cabbage, carrot and spring onions. Toss for 2 minutes only, add soy sauce, pepper and salt, and let the filling cool completely.
    4. For the achar, char the tomatoes directly over a flame until blackened, peel, and blend with the soaked chillies, garlic, timur and salt. Heat the oil, add the purée and cook for 3 minutes.
    5. Roll the dough into a log, cut into 24 pieces, and roll each into a thin 8 cm circle with thinner edges and a slightly thicker centre.
    6. Place a heaped teaspoon of filling in the centre and pleat the edges round, pinching them together at the top to form a pouch.
    7. Oil the steamer plates and arrange the momos with space between them. Steam over rapidly boiling water for 10-12 minutes until the wrappers look translucent and are no longer sticky to touch.
    8. Serve hot with the tomato achar.

    Tips

    • Roll the edges thinner than the centre so the pleated top does not end up thick and doughy.
    • Keep the dough covered with a damp cloth while you work; dry dough cracks when pleated.
    • Brush the steamer with oil or line it with cabbage leaves so the momos do not stick.

    Serve with

    Spicy tomato achar and a bowl of clear vegetable soup.

  • Assamese Khar

    Khar is both an ingredient and a dish, and it is so central to Assamese identity that the community sometimes calls itself 'khar khowa', the khar eaters. The ingredient is an alkaline liquid made by burning dried peel of the bhim kol banana, mixing the ash with water and filtering it. Traditionally khar is the first dish eaten at a meal.

    The most common version is papaya khar: raw papaya, often with a little masoor dal or rice, cooked in mustard oil with garlic and green chilli and then simmered with a spoon of khar. The alkali softens the vegetables and gives a distinctive smooth, slightly soapy-earthy taste that is hard to compare to anything else. Baking soda is the usual substitute outside Assam.

    At a glance

    RegionAssam
    CuisineAssamese
    DietVegan
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time40 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsraw papaya / masoor dal / khar (banana ash water) / garlic

    Ingredients

    • 2 cups raw papaya, peeled and cut into 2 cm cubes
    • 1/4 cup masoor dal, soaked 20 minutes
    • 2 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds or panch phoron
    • 4 garlic cloves, crushed
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 1 1/2 tbsp khar (or 1/4 tsp baking soda dissolved in 2 tbsp water)
    • 1 1/2 cups water
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Heat the mustard oil in a pan until it smokes, then lower the heat to medium.
    2. Add the fenugreek seeds and let them turn light brown, then add the crushed garlic and green chillies and fry for 30 seconds until fragrant.
    3. Add the papaya cubes and drained masoor dal. Stir-fry on medium heat for 3-4 minutes.
    4. Add salt and 1 1/2 cups water and bring to a boil.
    5. Stir in the khar. Cover and simmer on low heat for 15-18 minutes until the papaya is soft and the dal has broken down.
    6. Mash a few papaya pieces lightly to thicken the gravy. It should be a loose, soupy consistency. Serve hot.

    Tips

    • Be careful with the quantity – too much khar or baking soda makes the dish taste soapy and bitter.
    • Some families add a handful of soaked rice with the dal to give the khar more body, or a few pieces of fish head for a non-vegetarian version.
    • Khar is eaten in small portions as the first course, mixed with a little rice.

    Serve with

    The first few mouthfuls of plain rice at an Assamese meal.

  • Hanh Kumura (Duck with Ash Gourd)

    Duck is festive meat in Assam, especially during Magh Bihu in January and among the state's many communities who rear ducks in paddy fields and ponds. Hanh kumura pairs the rich, gamey bird with kumura, ash gourd, which soaks up the fat and spices and softens the strong flavour of the meat.

    The curry is hearty rather than fiery. Duck pieces are browned well in mustard oil with onion, ginger, garlic and whole spices, then simmered slowly until tender; the ash gourd goes in towards the end and turns soft and translucent. Black pepper and a little garam masala give warmth. It is a long, slow cook, ideal for a winter lunch.

    At a glance

    RegionAssam
    CuisineAssamese
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time90 minutes
    Total time120 minutes
    Serves5
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsduck / ash gourd / onion / ginger / garlic

    Ingredients

    For the duck

    • 1.2 kg duck, skin on, cut into medium pieces
    • 1 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp salt

    For the curry

    • 500 g ash gourd (kumura), peeled, deseeded and cut into 4 cm pieces
    • 4 tbsp mustard oil
    • 2 bay leaves
    • 3 green cardamoms
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 3 medium onions, finely chopped
    • 2 tbsp ginger paste
    • 2 tbsp garlic paste
    • 2 tomatoes, chopped
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp cumin powder
    • 1 tsp freshly crushed black pepper
    • 4 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • 3 cups hot water
    • Salt to taste
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Singe off any remaining feathers over a flame, wash the duck well and rub with turmeric and salt. Rest for 20 minutes.
    2. Heat a dry heavy pot and add the duck pieces skin-side down. Cook on medium heat for 10 minutes, turning, until the fat renders and the skin browns. Pour off excess fat, keeping 1 tbsp.
    3. Add the mustard oil to the pot and heat until it smokes, then lower to medium. Add bay leaves, cardamom and cinnamon, then the onions. Fry for 10-12 minutes until golden brown.
    4. Add ginger and garlic pastes and fry for 2 minutes until the raw smell is gone. Add the tomatoes and powdered spices and cook for 5 minutes until the oil separates.
    5. Return the duck to the pot and bhuno on medium heat for 10 minutes, stirring, until the masala darkens and coats the meat.
    6. Pour in 3 cups hot water, add green chillies, cover and simmer on low heat for 45-50 minutes (or pressure cook for 6-7 whistles) until the duck is tender.
    7. Add the ash gourd and black pepper and simmer uncovered for 12-15 minutes until the gourd turns translucent and soft.
    8. Finish with garam masala and coriander, and rest 10 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Duck is fatty – rendering the skin first gives better flavour and a less greasy curry.
    • Do not add the ash gourd early; it releases water and turns to pulp if overcooked.
    • If you can find it, a pinch of crushed Assamese bhut jolokia gives the curry its fiery local version.

    Serve with

    Steamed joha rice or plain rice.

  • Aloo Pitika

    Pitika means mash, and Assamese cooks make it from almost anything: potato, brinjal, tomato, dried fish or masoor dal. Aloo pitika is the most common and often the first dish served on a plate of rice, alongside dal and a tenga. It is also a favourite comfort dish on rainy days with khichdi.

    The secret is pungent raw mustard oil, which gives the mash a sharp, nose-tickling edge that sets it apart from other potato dishes in India. Finely chopped raw onion and green chilli add crunch and heat, and coriander adds freshness. Some families mash in a boiled egg or a roasted dry red chilli for extra smokiness.

    At a glance

    RegionAssam
    CuisineAssamese
    DietVegan
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time15 minutes
    Total time25 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspotato / mustard oil / onion / green chilli

    Ingredients

    • 4 medium potatoes (about 500 g)
    • 1 small onion, very finely chopped
    • 2 green chillies, finely chopped
    • 2 tbsp finely chopped coriander
    • 1 1/2 tbsp raw mustard oil
    • 3/4 tsp salt
    • 1 dry red chilli, roasted (optional)

    Method

    1. Boil the potatoes in salted water or pressure cook for 3 whistles until completely soft. Drain and peel while still warm.
    2. If using the dry red chilli, roast it directly over a low flame for 10-15 seconds until it darkens and smells smoky, then crumble it.
    3. Mash the potatoes with your hands or a fork until smooth, leaving no lumps.
    4. Add the onion, green chillies, coriander, salt and roasted chilli.
    5. Pour in the raw mustard oil and mix well with your fingers so the oil is evenly absorbed.
    6. Taste and adjust salt, then shape into a mound or small balls and serve at room temperature.

    Tips

    • Mash the potatoes while warm; cold potatoes turn gluey and do not absorb the oil as well.
    • Use kachi ghani mustard oil and do not heat it – the raw pungency is the whole point.
    • Add a boiled egg mashed in for 'kani aloo pitika', a popular home variation.

    Serve with

    Rice, dal and masor tenga, or with khichdi.

  • Masor Tenga

    Masor tenga means sour fish, and it is the curry Assamese families eat most often, especially in the hot, humid months. Sour food is believed to cool the body, and the souring agent changes with the season: ripe tomato, outenga (elephant apple), thekera (dried mangosteen), lemon, or kaji nemu, the long fragrant Assamese lemon.

    Compared with most Indian fish curries it is thin, bright and simple. Rohu or another freshwater fish is fried lightly in mustard oil, then simmered in a tomato broth tempered with fenugreek seeds. There is no coconut, no heavy masala, only turmeric, green chillies and coriander. The soup is meant to be poured over rice.

    At a glance

    RegionAssam
    CuisineAssamese
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time40 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrohu fish / tomato / lemon / mustard oil

    Ingredients

    • 500 g rohu steaks
    • 1 tsp turmeric powder, divided
    • 1 1/2 tsp salt, divided
    • 4 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds (methi)
    • 4 ripe tomatoes, chopped
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 2 cups water
    • Juice of 1 lemon (or 1/2 Assamese kaji nemu)
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Rub the fish steaks with 1/2 tsp turmeric and 1 tsp salt and set aside for 10 minutes.
    2. Heat the mustard oil in a kadhai until smoking, then lower to medium. Fry the fish for 2 minutes per side until lightly golden; they need not be fully cooked. Remove.
    3. In the same oil add the fenugreek seeds and fry for 10-15 seconds until they turn reddish brown; do not let them blacken.
    4. Add the tomatoes, remaining turmeric and salt. Cook on medium heat for 6-7 minutes, mashing with the spatula, until the tomatoes turn soft and pulpy.
    5. Pour in 2 cups water and add the green chillies. Bring to a boil and simmer for 3 minutes.
    6. Slide in the fried fish and simmer on low heat for 6-7 minutes until the fish is cooked through.
    7. Turn off the heat, stir in the lemon juice and coriander, and serve hot.

    Tips

    • Add the lemon only after switching off the heat; boiling makes it bitter.
    • For outengar tenga, add a few pieces of elephant apple with the tomatoes and skip the lemon.
    • Fried fenugreek should smell nutty – burnt seeds make the whole curry bitter.

    Serve with

    Plain steamed rice, with aloo pitika on the side.

  • Dhuska

    Dhuska is the signature breakfast of Jharkhand, sold hot from roadside kadhais in Ranchi, Jamshedpur and Dhanbad, and made at home for festivals and Sunday mornings. It belongs to the Adivasi and Sadan food traditions of the Chota Nagpur plateau, where rice and pulses are the everyday staples. A plate of two costs very little at a street stall.

    Rice and chana dal, sometimes with a little urad dal, are soaked and ground into a thick, slightly coarse batter, then ladled into hot oil where they puff into golden, thick discs. The outside is crisp, the centre soft and spongy. Dhuska is almost always eaten with a spicy aloo or kala chana curry, or with ghugni and green chutney.

    At a glance

    RegionJharkhand
    CuisineJharkhandi
    DietVegan
    CourseBreakfast
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / chana dal / urad dal / green chilli

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1 cup rice (any short or medium grain)
    • 1/2 cup chana dal
    • 2 tbsp urad dal
    • 1 inch ginger
    • 3 green chillies
    • 4 garlic cloves
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • A pinch of baking soda (optional)
    • Oil for deep frying

    For the aloo curry

    • 3 potatoes, boiled and cubed
    • 2 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 onion, chopped
    • 1 tomato, chopped
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 1 1/2 cups water
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Rinse the rice, chana dal and urad dal and soak them together in water for 6 hours or overnight.
    2. Drain and grind with ginger, green chillies and garlic, adding as little water as possible, to a thick, slightly coarse batter like idli batter.
    3. Stir in cumin, turmeric, salt and coriander. The batter should drop thickly from a spoon. Rest for 15 minutes; add baking soda just before frying if you want them fluffier.
    4. For the curry, heat mustard oil, splutter cumin, then fry the onion for 5 minutes until golden. Add tomato and the powdered spices and cook for 4 minutes until soft.
    5. Add potatoes, salt and water, lightly mash a few pieces, and simmer for 8-10 minutes until thick. Finish with garam masala.
    6. Heat oil for deep frying on medium-high. Pour a ladleful of batter gently into the oil; it should sink and rise immediately.
    7. Spoon hot oil over the top so it puffs, fry for 2 minutes, flip and fry another 1-2 minutes until golden brown and crisp. Drain and serve hot with the curry.

    Tips

    • A batter that is too thin spreads and absorbs oil; add a spoon of rice flour to thicken it.
    • Fry one at a time until you get the hang of the ladle movement – pour from close to the oil to avoid splashes.
    • Ghugni (spiced dried peas) is the other classic accompaniment.

    Serve with

    Spicy aloo curry or ghugni with coriander chutney.

  • Champaran Mutton

    Champaran mutton, also called ahuna or handi meat, comes from the Champaran region of north-west Bihar, near the Nepal border. It was cooked by farmers and at roadside dhabas in clay pots sealed with dough and set over wood or charcoal, and in the last decade it has become a craze, with 'Champaran meat house' signboards appearing far from Bihar.

    Everything goes into the pot raw: mutton, whole garlic bulbs, sliced onions, mustard oil and a generous amount of whole and ground spices. The handi is sealed and gently shaken now and then instead of stirred. The meat cooks in its own juices, absorbing the smoky, earthy flavour of the clay, and the whole garlic turns soft and sweet.

    At a glance

    RegionBihar
    CuisineBihari
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time90 minutes
    Total time120 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / garlic / onion / mustard oil

    Ingredients

    For the mutton

    • 1 kg mutton, curry cut with bone and some fat
    • 4 whole garlic bulbs, top sliced off, outer papery skin removed
    • 4 medium onions, thickly sliced
    • 2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1/2 cup mustard oil
    • 1/4 cup curd (optional)
    • Salt to taste

    Whole spices

    • 2 bay leaves
    • 6 green cardamoms
    • 2 black cardamoms
    • 6 cloves
    • 2 inch cinnamon
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 4 dry red chillies
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds

    Ground spices

    • 1 tsp turmeric powder
    • 2 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp cumin powder
    • 1 1/2 tsp meat masala or garam masala

    For sealing

    • 1 cup atta kneaded into a stiff dough

    Method

    1. Put the mutton, onions, ginger-garlic paste, all the whole and ground spices, salt, curd and half the mustard oil in a large bowl. Mix thoroughly with your hands and marinate for at least 1 hour.
    2. Heat the remaining mustard oil in a small pan until it smokes, then let it cool slightly. This removes its raw pungency.
    3. Put the marinated mutton in a clay handi (or a heavy-bottomed pot), push the garlic bulbs into the meat and pour the cooked oil over the top.
    4. Cover with the lid and seal the edges all round with the atta dough so no steam escapes.
    5. Place the handi on a low charcoal fire or on the lowest gas flame over a tawa. Cook for 75-90 minutes.
    6. Every 15 minutes, lift the handi with a cloth and shake it in a circular motion to move the meat around. Do not open it.
    7. Break the seal after 75 minutes and check: the mutton should come off the bone easily and the oil should float on a thick, dark masala. If not, reseal and cook another 15 minutes.
    8. Serve straight from the handi, with a whole garlic bulb on each plate to squeeze over the meat.

    Tips

    • Season a new clay handi by soaking it in water overnight and rubbing it with mustard oil before use.
    • In a pressure cooker, cook on medium for 1 whistle then on lowest heat for 30 minutes; it lacks the smokiness but is close.
    • Choose meat with fat and bone – the dish depends on the meat's own juices.

    Serve with

    Plain rice or thick rotis, with sliced onion and green chillies.