Duck is festive meat in Assam, especially during Magh Bihu in January and among the state's many communities who rear ducks in paddy fields and ponds. Hanh kumura pairs the rich, gamey bird with kumura, ash gourd, which soaks up the fat and spices and softens the strong flavour of the meat.
The curry is hearty rather than fiery. Duck pieces are browned well in mustard oil with onion, ginger, garlic and whole spices, then simmered slowly until tender; the ash gourd goes in towards the end and turns soft and translucent. Black pepper and a little garam masala give warmth. It is a long, slow cook, ideal for a winter lunch.
At a glance
| Region | Assam |
|---|---|
| Cuisine | Assamese |
| Diet | Non-vegetarian |
| Course | Main course |
| Prep time | 30 minutes |
| Cook time | 90 minutes |
| Total time | 120 minutes |
| Serves | 5 |
| Spice level | Medium |
| Difficulty | Medium |
| Gluten-free | Yes |
| Key ingredients | duck / ash gourd / onion / ginger / garlic |
Ingredients
For the duck
- 1.2 kg duck, skin on, cut into medium pieces
- 1 tsp turmeric powder
- 1 tsp salt
For the curry
- 500 g ash gourd (kumura), peeled, deseeded and cut into 4 cm pieces
- 4 tbsp mustard oil
- 2 bay leaves
- 3 green cardamoms
- 1 inch cinnamon
- 3 medium onions, finely chopped
- 2 tbsp ginger paste
- 2 tbsp garlic paste
- 2 tomatoes, chopped
- 1 tsp red chilli powder
- 2 tsp coriander powder
- 1 tsp cumin powder
- 1 tsp freshly crushed black pepper
- 4 green chillies, slit
- 1 tsp garam masala
- 3 cups hot water
- Salt to taste
- 2 tbsp chopped coriander
Method
- Singe off any remaining feathers over a flame, wash the duck well and rub with turmeric and salt. Rest for 20 minutes.
- Heat a dry heavy pot and add the duck pieces skin-side down. Cook on medium heat for 10 minutes, turning, until the fat renders and the skin browns. Pour off excess fat, keeping 1 tbsp.
- Add the mustard oil to the pot and heat until it smokes, then lower to medium. Add bay leaves, cardamom and cinnamon, then the onions. Fry for 10-12 minutes until golden brown.
- Add ginger and garlic pastes and fry for 2 minutes until the raw smell is gone. Add the tomatoes and powdered spices and cook for 5 minutes until the oil separates.
- Return the duck to the pot and bhuno on medium heat for 10 minutes, stirring, until the masala darkens and coats the meat.
- Pour in 3 cups hot water, add green chillies, cover and simmer on low heat for 45-50 minutes (or pressure cook for 6-7 whistles) until the duck is tender.
- Add the ash gourd and black pepper and simmer uncovered for 12-15 minutes until the gourd turns translucent and soft.
- Finish with garam masala and coriander, and rest 10 minutes before serving.
Tips
- Duck is fatty – rendering the skin first gives better flavour and a less greasy curry.
- Do not add the ash gourd early; it releases water and turns to pulp if overcooked.
- If you can find it, a pinch of crushed Assamese bhut jolokia gives the curry its fiery local version.
Serve with
Steamed joha rice or plain rice.