RAG Demo

Tag: Main Course

  • Gatte ki Sabzi

    Gatte ki sabzi is one of the cleverest dishes of Rajasthan. In a desert where fresh vegetables were scarce, cooks turned gram flour into dumplings and simmered them in curd, both pantry staples that kept well in the heat. It is now a regular in Marwari homes and on Rajasthani thalis everywhere.

    The gatte are made from besan seasoned with ajwain, chilli and a little curd and oil, shaped into logs, boiled until firm and sliced into rounds. They are then simmered in a curd-based gravy tempered with cumin, hing, fennel and red chilli. The gatte are soft yet firm, absorbing the tangy, spicy gravy, which is thin enough to soak into rice or roti.

    It is eaten with phulkas, bajra roti or rice, often as part of a thali with dal and kadhi. It is also a popular dish during Jain and fasting-adjacent meals when cooked without onion and garlic. The gatte can be boiled a few hours ahead and kept covered, so the final cooking takes just fifteen minutes. Keep the gravy thin; it thickens as it stands.

    At a glance

    RegionRajasthan
    CuisineRajasthani
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time60 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbesan / curd / ajwain / red chilli

    Ingredients

    For the gatte

    • 1 cup besan
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1/2 tsp coriander powder
    • A pinch of hing
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 2 tbsp curd
    • 1 to 2 tbsp water

    For the gravy

    • 1 cup curd
    • 1 tsp besan
    • 1 1/2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 3 tbsp oil or ghee
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/2 tsp saunf
    • 2 dried red chillies
    • 1 tsp ginger paste
    • 1 green chilli, chopped
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 1/2 tsp kasuri methi
    • Salt to taste
    • Chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Mix besan with all the gatte spices and salt. Add oil and curd and knead with a spoon of water into a firm, smooth dough.
    2. Divide into 4 portions and roll each into a log about 1.5 cm thick.
    3. Bring 4 cups water to a boil, slide in the logs and cook on medium for 12 to 15 minutes. They are done when they float and look slightly glossy, with small bubbles on the surface.
    4. Lift out, reserve the cooking water, cool the logs for 5 minutes and slice into 1.5 cm rounds.
    5. Whisk curd with besan, coriander powder, chilli powder and turmeric until smooth.
    6. Heat oil in a kadai on medium. Add hing, cumin, saunf and dried red chillies; when they crackle, add ginger paste and green chilli for 30 seconds.
    7. Lower the heat and add the curd mixture, stirring constantly until it comes to a boil, about 4 minutes. Add 1 1/2 cups of the reserved gatte water and salt.
    8. Add the gatte and simmer 10 minutes until they swell slightly and the gravy thickens. Finish with garam masala, kasuri methi and coriander.

    Tips

    • The gatte dough should be firm; soft dough breaks while boiling.
    • The besan-flavoured cooking water gives the gravy body – do not discard it.
    • Shallow-fry the sliced gatte until golden before adding for a richer version.

    Serve with

    Phulkas, bajra roti or steamed rice.

  • Laal Maas

    Laal maas, or red meat, comes from the Rajput royal kitchens, where it was originally made with wild boar or venison brought back from hunts. The strong chilli and garlic masked the gamey flavour of the meat, and the dish became a symbol of Rajasthani bravado. Today it is made with goat, and Jodhpur and Jaisalmer are famous for their versions.

    Its fiery red colour comes from Mathania chillies, a variety grown near Jodhpur that is deep red, aromatic and genuinely hot. The mutton is cooked slowly in ghee with yogurt, whole spices and plenty of garlic, until the gravy is thin, intensely red and topped with a layer of chilli-tinted ghee. A smoky finish from a hot coal is traditional.

    It is served with bajra roti, plain rice or makki ki roti, and a glass of buttermilk to cool the heat. It is a dish for winter feasts and gatherings rather than everyday meals. Mathania chillies can be hard to find outside Rajasthan; a blend of Kashmiri chillies for colour and Byadgi or a few hotter chillies for heat works well. Deseeding them controls the heat without losing the colour.

    At a glance

    RegionRajasthan
    CuisineRajasthani
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time90 minutes
    Total time110 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / Mathania red chillies / yogurt / garlic / ghee

    Ingredients

    For the chilli paste

    • 15 to 20 dried Mathania red chillies (or 10 Kashmiri + 6 Byadgi), deseeded and soaked in hot water 30 minutes
    • 15 garlic cloves

    For the curry

    • 750 g bone-in mutton, curry cut
    • 1 cup curd, whisked
    • 1/2 cup ghee
    • 2 large onions, thinly sliced
    • 4 green cardamom, 2 black cardamom, 6 cloves, 2 bay leaves
    • 2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 cups hot water
    • Chopped coriander

    For the dhungar

    • 1 piece charcoal
    • 1 tsp ghee
    • 2 cloves

    Method

    1. Grind the soaked chillies with garlic and 2 tbsp of the soaking water to a smooth paste.
    2. Marinate the mutton with curd, half the chilli paste, coriander powder, turmeric and salt for at least 1 hour.
    3. Heat ghee in a heavy pot on medium. Add the whole spices and let them sizzle, then add onions and fry 10 to 12 minutes until golden brown.
    4. Add the remaining chilli paste and fry on low for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring, until the raw garlic smell goes and the ghee turns deep red.
    5. Add the marinated mutton and cook on medium-high for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring often, until the meat is seared and the marinade has thickened and starts to leave ghee.
    6. Pour in the hot water, bring to a boil, then cover and simmer on low for 60 to 70 minutes until the mutton is tender and the gravy is thin and red with ghee floating on top.
    7. For the dhungar, heat the charcoal on a flame until glowing. Place it in a small steel bowl set in the curry, add cloves and ghee on top, and cover the pot tightly for 5 minutes. Remove the bowl.
    8. Garnish with coriander and serve.

    Tips

    • Taste the chilli paste before using it; Mathania heat varies from batch to batch, so adjust the quantity.
    • Fry the chilli paste patiently on low heat; rushing it makes the curry bitter.
    • Laal maas tastes better after resting for a few hours.

    Serve with

    Bajra roti or steamed rice, with chaas and sliced onion.

  • Dal Baati Churma

    Dal baati churma is the defining meal of Rajasthan. Baati, a hard, round wheat bread, was ideal for the desert: it could be buried in hot sand or embers to bake and kept for days without spoiling, which made it useful for travelling traders and Rajput soldiers. Churma is said to have been discovered when a baati fell into jaggery and ghee and was crushed into sweet crumbs.

    The baatis are crisp outside and dense and crumbly within, made with coarse atta, semolina and generous ghee, then soaked in more melted ghee after baking. Panchmel dal combines five lentils, cooked thick and tempered with ghee, cumin, hing and dried red chillies. Churma is crushed fried baati mixed with ghee, sugar or jaggery, cardamom and nuts.

    It is the centrepiece of weddings, festivals and family gatherings, and is eaten by breaking the baati, pouring dal and ghee over it, and eating a bite of churma between mouthfuls. The baatis can be baked a few hours ahead and warmed before serving, while the dal and churma keep well. It is a filling meal, best followed by a nap. Garlic chutney and a glass of buttermilk are the customary sides.

    At a glance

    RegionRajasthan
    CuisineRajasthani
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time45 minutes
    Cook time75 minutes
    Total time120 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientswhole wheat flour / mixed lentils / ghee / sugar

    Ingredients

    For the baati (12)

    • 3 cups coarse whole wheat atta
    • 1/2 cup sooji
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp baking soda
    • 1/2 cup ghee, plus 1 cup melted ghee for dipping
    • About 3/4 cup warm milk or water

    For the panchmel dal

    • 1/4 cup each: toor dal, chana dal, moong dal, urad dal, masoor dal, soaked 1 hour
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 3 tbsp ghee
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 3 dried red chillies
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 green chillies, chopped
    • 2 tomatoes, chopped
    • 1 1/2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • Chopped coriander

    For the churma

    • 3 baatis, set aside after baking
    • 4 tbsp ghee
    • 1/2 cup powdered sugar or grated jaggery
    • 1/2 tsp green cardamom powder
    • 2 tbsp chopped almonds and cashews

    Method

    1. Mix atta, sooji, ajwain, salt and soda. Rub in 1/2 cup ghee until the mixture holds together when pressed. Add milk gradually and knead into a stiff dough. Rest 15 minutes.
    2. Divide into 12 balls, flatten slightly and press a thumb in the centre of each. Bake on a tray in an oven preheated to 200 C for 35 to 40 minutes, turning halfway, until golden-brown with cracks on the surface and hard when tapped.
    3. While baking, pressure cook the dals with 4 cups water, turmeric and salt for 3 whistles. Whisk lightly; the dal should be thick but not completely smooth.
    4. Heat ghee in a pan on medium, add hing, cumin and dried red chillies, then ginger-garlic paste and green chillies for a minute.
    5. Add tomatoes, coriander and chilli powder and cook 5 minutes until soft. Pour in the dal, simmer 10 minutes and finish with garam masala and coriander.
    6. Crack 9 hot baatis gently and immerse them in the melted ghee for a few minutes, then lift out.
    7. For churma, break the remaining 3 baatis and grind to coarse crumbs. Warm 4 tbsp ghee, add the crumbs and roast on low 3 to 4 minutes until fragrant. Cool slightly and mix in sugar, cardamom and nuts.
    8. Serve the ghee-soaked baatis with hot dal poured over and churma on the side.

    Tips

    • Coarse atta and ghee rubbed in well give the baati its crumbly interior.
    • Bafla baati is a variation: boil the baatis for 10 minutes before baking for a softer result.
    • Store leftover churma in an airtight jar for up to a week.

    Serve with

    Garlic chutney, kachumber salad and buttermilk.

  • Litti Chokha

    Litti chokha is the signature dish of Bihar and eastern Uttar Pradesh, once a travellers' meal because it keeps well and needs no utensils to cook. It is said that soldiers and farmers baked littis in the embers of cow-dung fires, and today the street vendors of Patna still roast them over coal in wide clay ovens.

    The litti is a ball of whole wheat dough stuffed with sattu, roasted gram flour, mixed with mustard oil, garlic, ginger, ajwain, lemon, green chillies and the sour tang of pickle masala. Roasted until the crust is firm and slightly charred, it is cracked and dipped in ghee. Chokha is the smoky accompaniment: fire-roasted brinjal, tomato and boiled potato mashed with raw mustard oil, garlic and onion.

    It is eaten for lunch or dinner, at festivals and picnics, and has become popular across North India. The pungency of raw mustard oil is essential to both parts. An oven gives good results at home, though nothing quite matches the smoky flavour of coal-roasted littis. The chokha can be made while the littis bake, so both are ready together and can be served piping hot.

    At a glance

    RegionBihar
    CuisineBihari
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time45 minutes
    Total time85 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientswhole wheat flour / sattu / brinjal / tomato / mustard oil

    Ingredients

    For the litti dough

    • 2 cups whole wheat atta
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp ghee
    • About 3/4 cup water

    For the sattu filling

    • 1 1/2 cups chana sattu
    • 1 small onion, finely chopped
    • 4 garlic cloves, minced
    • 1 inch ginger, grated
    • 2 green chillies, chopped
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • 1/2 tsp kalonji (nigella)
    • 2 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 tbsp achar masala from mango pickle
    • 3 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 3/4 tsp salt
    • 2 to 3 tbsp water

    For the chokha

    • 1 large brinjal (about 400 g)
    • 3 tomatoes
    • 2 potatoes, boiled and peeled
    • 1 small onion, finely chopped
    • 4 garlic cloves, minced
    • 2 green chillies, chopped
    • 2 tbsp raw mustard oil
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • Salt to taste

    To serve

    • 1/2 cup melted ghee

    Method

    1. Knead atta, ajwain, salt, ghee and water into a stiff, smooth dough. Rest 20 minutes.
    2. Mix all filling ingredients, adding water a spoon at a time until the sattu holds together when pressed but is still crumbly.
    3. Divide the dough into 10 balls. Flatten each into a cup, fill with 2 tbsp sattu, seal and roll into a smooth ball.
    4. Bake on coals or in an oven preheated to 200 C for 30 to 35 minutes, turning every 10 minutes, until the littis are firm, golden-brown and sound hollow when tapped. A gas tandoor or appe pan on low heat also works.
    5. For the chokha, rub the brinjal and tomatoes with a little oil and roast directly on a gas flame, turning often, until charred all over – about 12 minutes for the brinjal, 5 for the tomatoes. Cover to steam, then peel.
    6. Mash the brinjal, tomatoes and potatoes together. Mix in onion, garlic, green chillies, raw mustard oil, coriander and salt.
    7. Crack each hot litti slightly with your fingers and dip it in or brush generously with melted ghee. Serve with chokha.

    Tips

    • Raw mustard oil in both the filling and the chokha gives the authentic pungency; do not cook it.
    • If the sattu filling is too dry, the litti will taste dusty; it should clump when squeezed.
    • Achar masala from the pickle jar adds the characteristic tang – use a little oil from the pickle too.

    Serve with

    Baingan-tomato chokha, green chutney and ghee.

  • Kafuli

    Kafuli is the green curry of Garhwal, the western half of Uttarakhand, made in hill homes with whatever leafy greens grow nearby: spinach, fenugreek and sometimes mustard or lai. It was traditionally cooked in a heavy iron kadai, which deepens the colour and adds iron to the dish, a real benefit in mountain diets.

    It is thicker and more rustic than palak paneer, closer to a thick gravy. The greens are boiled, ground and simmered with a paste of soaked rice (or besan), which gives body and a slightly creamy texture. Mustard oil, garlic, ginger, cumin and a pinch of hing give it a pungent, earthy flavour, with a little curd sometimes added for tang.

    Kafuli is eaten with steamed rice or with mandua (finger millet) roti, a classic Garhwali pairing. It is home food, simple, nourishing and quick once the greens are cleaned. Choose young, tender spinach and fresh methi with small leaves; they cook faster and taste less bitter. A spoon of the hot kafuli over plain rice with a little pickle is one of the simplest and most satisfying pahadi meals.

    At a glance

    RegionUttarakhand
    CuisineGarhwali
    DietVegan
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsspinach / fenugreek leaves / rice / mustard oil

    Ingredients

    • 400 g spinach, chopped
    • 100 g fresh methi (fenugreek) leaves, chopped
    • 2 tbsp raw rice, soaked 1 hour
    • 3 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 2 dried red chillies
    • 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
    • 1 inch ginger, finely chopped
    • 2 green chillies, chopped
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 cup water
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Wash the spinach and methi several times. Boil 2 cups water, add the greens and cook 4 to 5 minutes until soft. Drain, reserving the water.
    2. Grind the cooled greens to a coarse puree. Separately grind the soaked rice with 3 tbsp water to a smooth paste.
    3. Heat mustard oil in an iron kadai until it smokes, then lower to medium. Add hing, cumin and dried red chillies.
    4. Add garlic, ginger and green chillies and fry 1 to 2 minutes until the garlic turns light golden.
    5. Add turmeric, coriander powder and the greens puree. Cook 5 minutes, stirring.
    6. Mix the rice paste with 1 cup of the reserved water and pour it in, stirring constantly to avoid lumps. Add salt.
    7. Simmer on low for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring often, until the kafuli thickens to a smooth, pourable consistency and the raw rice taste is gone. Add more reserved water if it gets too thick.
    8. Taste for salt and serve hot, straight from the kadai.

    Tips

    • Besan can replace the rice paste – whisk 2 tbsp with water before adding.
    • An iron kadai gives the authentic dark colour, but do not leave the cooked kafuli sitting in it for long.
    • Use less methi if you prefer a less bitter taste.

    Serve with

    Steamed rice or mandua (finger millet) roti.

  • Chana Madra

    Madra is a cornerstone of Himachali dham, the traditional festive meal served on leaf plates at weddings and temple fairs in Chamba, Kangra and Mandi. It is cooked by botis, hereditary Brahmin cooks, in large brass vessels over wood fires, and the dham menu would be incomplete without it. Cooking it is a matter of pride.

    The dish is defined by yogurt slowly cooked in plenty of ghee with whole spices: cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, bay leaf and sometimes a pinch of nutmeg. There is no onion, garlic or tomato. The gravy is pale, creamy and mildly tangy, coating soft chickpeas, and the aroma of ghee and cardamom fills the kitchen. Kidney beans or a mix of vegetables can be used instead of chana.

    It is eaten with steamed rice as part of the dham, alongside dishes like rajmah, kadhi and meetha bhat. At home it is made for festivals and special lunches. It is rich, so a small helping is enough. The key is slow, patient cooking of the curd in ghee, stirring constantly so it does not split. Leftovers keep well for a day in the fridge and can be loosened with a splash of warm water when reheated.

    At a glance

    RegionHimachal Pradesh
    CuisineHimachali
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time45 minutes
    Total time60 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschickpeas / yogurt / ghee / cardamom

    Ingredients

    • 1 cup kabuli chana, soaked overnight
    • 1 1/2 cups thick curd
    • 1 tbsp besan
    • 4 tbsp ghee
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 4 green cardamom, 1 black cardamom, 4 cloves, 1 small cinnamon stick, 2 bay leaves
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp black pepper powder
    • 1/4 tsp green cardamom powder
    • A pinch of nutmeg
    • 1 tbsp chopped raisins (optional)
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the chana with 3 cups water and salt for 1 whistle on high and 15 minutes on low until soft but holding shape. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water.
    2. Whisk the curd with besan, turmeric, coriander powder and chilli powder until completely smooth.
    3. Heat ghee in a heavy kadai on medium. Add hing, cumin, cardamoms, cloves, cinnamon and bay leaves and let them sizzle 30 seconds.
    4. Add the drained chana and fry in the ghee for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring gently, until lightly coated and fragrant.
    5. Lower the heat to the minimum. Pour in the curd mixture slowly, stirring constantly in one direction.
    6. Keep stirring on low for 8 to 10 minutes until the curd comes to a boil and thickens without splitting.
    7. Add the reserved chana water a little at a time to reach a medium-thick gravy. Simmer 10 to 12 minutes until ghee shows on the surface.
    8. Finish with black pepper, cardamom powder, nutmeg and raisins. Rest 5 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Besan stabilises the curd; constant stirring until it boils does the rest.
    • Do not skimp on ghee – it is central to the flavour of madra.
    • Try rajma madra or a mixed-vegetable madra with the same method.

    Serve with

    Steamed rice, as part of a Himachali dham.

  • Chicken Changezi

    Chicken changezi is a dish of Old Delhi's Mughlai eateries around Jama Masjid and Matia Mahal. The name nods to Changez Khan, but the dish is a modern restaurant creation, a cousin of butter chicken with a heavier hand of browned onions, cashews and cream. Places like Karim's and the smaller dhabas of the area made it a late-night favourite.

    The chicken is marinated and grilled or fried until charred, then finished in a thick, buttery gravy that is richer and spicier than makhani. Fried onions and cashews give body and sweetness, tomatoes add tang, and green chillies, garam masala and a whisper of kewra provide the Old Delhi character.

    It is eaten with rumali roti, khamiri roti or naan, usually as part of a meat-heavy feast. A small portion is plenty; this is not an everyday curry. It reheats well, and the flavours deepen overnight, so it can be made a day ahead for a party. The charred chicken is the key, so do not skip the searing step. A squeeze of lemon and a few rings of raw onion on the side cut through the richness.

    At a glance

    RegionDelhi
    CuisineMughlai
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time80 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / cashew / cream / onion / tomato

    Ingredients

    For the chicken

    • 800 g bone-in chicken, curry cut
    • 1/2 cup hung curd
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1 1/2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp oil

    For the gravy

    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 2 tbsp butter
    • 2 large onions, sliced
    • 20 cashews
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 3 tomatoes, pureed
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 1/3 cup cream
    • 1/2 tsp kewra water
    • Salt to taste
    • Chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Marinate the chicken with curd, ginger-garlic paste, chilli powder, garam masala, lemon and salt for at least 2 hours.
    2. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a heavy pan or tawa on high. Sear the chicken in batches, 4 to 5 minutes per side, until charred in places. Set aside. (Or grill at 230 C for 20 minutes.)
    3. In a pan, heat 3 tbsp oil and fry the onions on medium for 12 minutes until golden. Add cashews for the last 2 minutes. Cool and grind to a smooth paste with a little water.
    4. Heat butter in a heavy pot on medium. Add ginger-garlic paste and cook 1 minute, then the tomato puree with chilli powder, coriander, turmeric and salt. Cook 8 minutes until thick.
    5. Add the onion-cashew paste and cook on low, stirring, for 6 to 8 minutes until the gravy turns glossy and fat separates.
    6. Add 1 cup hot water and the seared chicken. Cover and simmer on low for 15 to 20 minutes until the chicken is cooked through.
    7. Add green chillies, garam masala and cream, simmer 3 minutes, then sprinkle kewra and coriander.

    Tips

    • Charring the chicken first gives the dish its smoky Old Delhi flavour.
    • Stir the onion-cashew paste constantly; it catches easily.
    • For extra richness, finish with a tablespoon of butter just before serving.

    Serve with

    Rumali roti, khamiri roti or butter naan.

  • Mutton Korma

    Korma means braising, and the Awadhi mutton korma is one of the foundation dishes of Lucknowi cooking. Unlike the creamy, nut-heavy restaurant kormas, the classic version is built on yogurt and a paste of deeply fried onions, cooked slowly so the meat absorbs the spices and the fat rises to the surface.

    The gravy is a rich brown, thick and glossy, with a warm aroma of cardamom, cloves, mace and a few drops of kewra. Heat is moderate, and the flavour comes from properly browned onions and slow cooking rather than heavy spice. The mutton should be tender enough to pull from the bone easily.

    Korma is a dish for Eid, weddings and Sunday lunches, eaten with sheermal, tandoori roti or plain rice. Lucknow's famous Idrees and Wahid shops serve it alongside biryani. Like most braised dishes, it tastes even better the next day, so it is a good choice when cooking for a gathering. Leftover gravy is delicious mopped up with a crisp paratha at breakfast.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineAwadhi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time80 minutes
    Total time105 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / yogurt / fried onions / ghee

    Ingredients

    • 750 g bone-in mutton, curry cut
    • 1 cup thick curd, whisked
    • 1/2 cup ghee or oil
    • 3 large onions, thinly sliced
    • 2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 4 green cardamom, 2 black cardamom, 6 cloves, 1 cinnamon stick, 2 bay leaves
    • 1 1/2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • 1/4 tsp mace and green cardamom powder
    • 10 almonds, soaked and peeled (optional)
    • 1/2 tsp kewra water
    • 1 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1 1/2 cups hot water

    Method

    1. Heat ghee in a heavy pot on medium. Fry the sliced onions for 15 minutes, stirring, until evenly deep golden brown. Lift them out, leaving the ghee behind.
    2. Grind the fried onions with 3 tbsp curd (and the almonds, if using) to a smooth paste.
    3. In the same ghee, add the whole spices and let them crackle for 30 seconds. Add the mutton and salt and sear on high for 8 to 10 minutes until browned.
    4. Add ginger-garlic paste and cook 2 minutes. Lower the heat and add chilli powder, coriander powder and turmeric with a splash of water; stir 1 minute.
    5. Add the remaining curd gradually, stirring constantly, then the onion paste. Cook on medium-low for 10 minutes until the masala thickens and ghee separates.
    6. Pour in the hot water, cover and cook on low for 50 to 60 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the mutton is tender and the gravy thick with ghee floating on top.
    7. Add garam masala, mace-cardamom powder and kewra. Cover and leave on the lowest heat for 5 minutes, then rest before serving.

    Tips

    • The colour and flavour of the korma come from the fried onions; uneven or burnt onions make it bitter.
    • Use goat meat from the shoulder for the best balance of fat and tenderness.
    • Pressure cooking (4 to 5 whistles) speeds things up; reduce the water to 1 cup.

    Serve with

    Sheermal, tandoori roti or plain basmati rice.

  • Nihari

    Nihari comes from the Arabic word nahar, meaning morning, and in Old Delhi it was traditionally eaten after the dawn prayer. The dish is said to have been cooked in the Mughal kitchens of the late eighteenth century, and the shops around Jama Masjid and Ballimaran still cook it overnight in sealed degs and sell out within hours of opening.

    Bone-in shanks and marrow bones simmer for many hours in a broth spiced with a dedicated nihari masala of fennel, dried ginger, long pepper, mace and nutmeg. Roasted wheat flour thickens it into a silky, glossy gravy, and a slick of spiced ghee floats on top. The meat should fall off the bone at a touch.

    It is eaten with khamiri roti or kulcha, garnished at the table with julienned ginger, green chillies, coriander, fried onions and lemon. In homes it is a weekend or Eid breakfast, often cooked the night before. The bone marrow is a prized part, sucked out straight from the bone. It is very rich, so most people eat it slowly, with long breaks for tea.

    At a glance

    RegionDelhi
    CuisineMughlai
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time240 minutes
    Total time260 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientsmutton shanks / atta / ghee / nihari masala

    Ingredients

    For the nihari masala

    • 1 tbsp saunf (fennel)
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 2 pippali (long pepper)
    • 4 cloves
    • 2 black cardamom
    • 4 green cardamom
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 1 blade mace
    • 1/4 nutmeg
    • 1 tsp sonth (dry ginger) powder

    For the nihari

    • 1 kg mutton shanks (nalli) and bone-in pieces
    • 2 marrow bones (optional)
    • 1/2 cup ghee
    • 2 large onions, thinly sliced
    • 2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 2 tsp salt
    • 8 cups hot water
    • 1/3 cup whole wheat atta mixed with 1 cup water

    To garnish

    • 2 inch ginger, julienned
    • 4 green chillies, sliced
    • Chopped coriander
    • Fried onions
    • Lemon wedges

    Method

    1. Dry-roast the whole spices for the nihari masala on low for 2 minutes until fragrant. Cool and grind fine with the sonth.
    2. Heat ghee in a large heavy pot on medium. Fry the onions for 12 to 15 minutes until deep golden. Lift out half and keep for garnish.
    3. Add the mutton and marrow bones and sear on medium-high for 8 minutes. Add ginger-garlic paste and fry 2 minutes.
    4. Add chilli powders, coriander, turmeric, salt and 2 tbsp of the nihari masala. Stir-fry 3 minutes, adding a splash of water if the spices stick.
    5. Pour in the hot water and bring to a boil. Cover tightly (seal the lid with dough if you like) and cook on the lowest heat for 3 to 3 1/2 hours, until the meat comes away from the bone easily.
    6. Meanwhile, dry-roast the atta in a small pan on low for 5 minutes until it smells nutty and turns light brown, then whisk it into 1 cup water until smooth.
    7. Skim off some of the fat from the top of the pot and reserve it. Stir the atta mixture into the nihari and simmer, stirring, for 20 to 25 minutes until silky and thick.
    8. Heat the reserved fat with 1 tsp chilli powder and 1 tsp nihari masala and pour over the top before serving. Garnish at the table.

    Tips

    • Shanks give the gelatinous body nihari is known for; boneless meat will not.
    • A pressure cooker cuts the cooking to about 50 minutes, but the slow-cooked version is noticeably silkier.
    • Nihari reheats well; it thickens on cooling, so loosen with hot water.

    Serve with

    Khamiri roti or kulcha, with ginger, green chillies, fried onions and lemon.

  • Kashmiri Yakhni

    Yakhni is the gentle counterpart to rogan josh in Kashmiri cooking. The name comes from a Persian word for stock or broth, and the dish is a yogurt-based curry so pale and mild that visitors are often surprised it belongs to the same cuisine. It is a fixture of the wazwan and of everyday Kashmiri homes, both Muslim and Pandit.

    There is no chilli and no turmeric. Instead the flavour comes from mutton stock, fennel, dry ginger, green and black cardamom and a final scattering of dried mint. Yogurt is cooked slowly until it becomes silky and stable. The taste is soothing and fragrant, with a gentle tang and plenty of meaty depth.

    Yakhni is served with plain steamed rice, often on the same table as rogan josh so diners can balance mild with spicy. Vegetarian versions use lotus stem (nadru yakhni) or bottle gourd. Because it is mild, yakhni is also a favourite with children and older family members, and it is a comforting dish in the cold Kashmiri winter. Dried mint and fennel are the flavours that make it unmistakably Kashmiri, so do not leave them out.

    At a glance

    RegionJammu and Kashmir
    CuisineKashmiri
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time80 minutes
    Total time95 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / yogurt / fennel / cardamom / dried mint

    Ingredients

    For the mutton

    • 750 g bone-in mutton pieces
    • 4 cups water
    • 4 green cardamom, 2 black cardamom
    • 1 cinnamon stick, 4 cloves, 2 bay leaves
    • 1 tsp salt

    For the yogurt gravy

    • 2 cups thick curd
    • 1 tsp cornflour or 1 tbsp besan (to stabilise)
    • 3 tbsp ghee or mustard oil
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp shahi jeera (caraway)
    • 2 tsp saunf powder
    • 1 1/2 tsp sonth (dry ginger) powder
    • 1/2 tsp green cardamom powder
    • 1 tsp dried mint, crushed
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Put mutton, water, whole spices and salt in a pot. Bring to a boil, skim the scum, then cover and simmer on low for 50 to 60 minutes until tender (or pressure cook 4 whistles). Strain and reserve the stock.
    2. Whisk the curd with the cornflour until completely smooth.
    3. Heat ghee in a heavy pot on medium. Add hing and shahi jeera and let them sizzle for 20 seconds.
    4. Lower the heat, add the curd and stir continuously in one direction for 6 to 8 minutes until it comes to a boil and thickens slightly. This prevents curdling.
    5. Add fennel powder and dry ginger, then gradually pour in about 1 1/2 cups of the reserved stock, stirring all the time.
    6. Add the cooked mutton pieces and simmer uncovered on low for 15 to 20 minutes, until the gravy is creamy and coats the meat.
    7. Stir in cardamom powder and dried mint, check salt and rest 5 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Keep stirring until the yogurt boils; once it has boiled it will not split.
    • Full-fat curd gives the best texture; low-fat curd tends to separate.
    • Leftover stock makes an excellent base for pulao.

    Serve with

    Plain steamed rice, with rogan josh or haak on the side.