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Tag: Medium spice

  • Gatte ki Sabzi

    Gatte ki sabzi is one of the cleverest dishes of Rajasthan. In a desert where fresh vegetables were scarce, cooks turned gram flour into dumplings and simmered them in curd, both pantry staples that kept well in the heat. It is now a regular in Marwari homes and on Rajasthani thalis everywhere.

    The gatte are made from besan seasoned with ajwain, chilli and a little curd and oil, shaped into logs, boiled until firm and sliced into rounds. They are then simmered in a curd-based gravy tempered with cumin, hing, fennel and red chilli. The gatte are soft yet firm, absorbing the tangy, spicy gravy, which is thin enough to soak into rice or roti.

    It is eaten with phulkas, bajra roti or rice, often as part of a thali with dal and kadhi. It is also a popular dish during Jain and fasting-adjacent meals when cooked without onion and garlic. The gatte can be boiled a few hours ahead and kept covered, so the final cooking takes just fifteen minutes. Keep the gravy thin; it thickens as it stands.

    At a glance

    RegionRajasthan
    CuisineRajasthani
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time60 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbesan / curd / ajwain / red chilli

    Ingredients

    For the gatte

    • 1 cup besan
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1/2 tsp coriander powder
    • A pinch of hing
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 2 tbsp curd
    • 1 to 2 tbsp water

    For the gravy

    • 1 cup curd
    • 1 tsp besan
    • 1 1/2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 3 tbsp oil or ghee
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/2 tsp saunf
    • 2 dried red chillies
    • 1 tsp ginger paste
    • 1 green chilli, chopped
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 1/2 tsp kasuri methi
    • Salt to taste
    • Chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Mix besan with all the gatte spices and salt. Add oil and curd and knead with a spoon of water into a firm, smooth dough.
    2. Divide into 4 portions and roll each into a log about 1.5 cm thick.
    3. Bring 4 cups water to a boil, slide in the logs and cook on medium for 12 to 15 minutes. They are done when they float and look slightly glossy, with small bubbles on the surface.
    4. Lift out, reserve the cooking water, cool the logs for 5 minutes and slice into 1.5 cm rounds.
    5. Whisk curd with besan, coriander powder, chilli powder and turmeric until smooth.
    6. Heat oil in a kadai on medium. Add hing, cumin, saunf and dried red chillies; when they crackle, add ginger paste and green chilli for 30 seconds.
    7. Lower the heat and add the curd mixture, stirring constantly until it comes to a boil, about 4 minutes. Add 1 1/2 cups of the reserved gatte water and salt.
    8. Add the gatte and simmer 10 minutes until they swell slightly and the gravy thickens. Finish with garam masala, kasuri methi and coriander.

    Tips

    • The gatte dough should be firm; soft dough breaks while boiling.
    • The besan-flavoured cooking water gives the gravy body – do not discard it.
    • Shallow-fry the sliced gatte until golden before adding for a richer version.

    Serve with

    Phulkas, bajra roti or steamed rice.

  • Dal Baati Churma

    Dal baati churma is the defining meal of Rajasthan. Baati, a hard, round wheat bread, was ideal for the desert: it could be buried in hot sand or embers to bake and kept for days without spoiling, which made it useful for travelling traders and Rajput soldiers. Churma is said to have been discovered when a baati fell into jaggery and ghee and was crushed into sweet crumbs.

    The baatis are crisp outside and dense and crumbly within, made with coarse atta, semolina and generous ghee, then soaked in more melted ghee after baking. Panchmel dal combines five lentils, cooked thick and tempered with ghee, cumin, hing and dried red chillies. Churma is crushed fried baati mixed with ghee, sugar or jaggery, cardamom and nuts.

    It is the centrepiece of weddings, festivals and family gatherings, and is eaten by breaking the baati, pouring dal and ghee over it, and eating a bite of churma between mouthfuls. The baatis can be baked a few hours ahead and warmed before serving, while the dal and churma keep well. It is a filling meal, best followed by a nap. Garlic chutney and a glass of buttermilk are the customary sides.

    At a glance

    RegionRajasthan
    CuisineRajasthani
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time45 minutes
    Cook time75 minutes
    Total time120 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientswhole wheat flour / mixed lentils / ghee / sugar

    Ingredients

    For the baati (12)

    • 3 cups coarse whole wheat atta
    • 1/2 cup sooji
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp baking soda
    • 1/2 cup ghee, plus 1 cup melted ghee for dipping
    • About 3/4 cup warm milk or water

    For the panchmel dal

    • 1/4 cup each: toor dal, chana dal, moong dal, urad dal, masoor dal, soaked 1 hour
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 3 tbsp ghee
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 3 dried red chillies
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 green chillies, chopped
    • 2 tomatoes, chopped
    • 1 1/2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • Chopped coriander

    For the churma

    • 3 baatis, set aside after baking
    • 4 tbsp ghee
    • 1/2 cup powdered sugar or grated jaggery
    • 1/2 tsp green cardamom powder
    • 2 tbsp chopped almonds and cashews

    Method

    1. Mix atta, sooji, ajwain, salt and soda. Rub in 1/2 cup ghee until the mixture holds together when pressed. Add milk gradually and knead into a stiff dough. Rest 15 minutes.
    2. Divide into 12 balls, flatten slightly and press a thumb in the centre of each. Bake on a tray in an oven preheated to 200 C for 35 to 40 minutes, turning halfway, until golden-brown with cracks on the surface and hard when tapped.
    3. While baking, pressure cook the dals with 4 cups water, turmeric and salt for 3 whistles. Whisk lightly; the dal should be thick but not completely smooth.
    4. Heat ghee in a pan on medium, add hing, cumin and dried red chillies, then ginger-garlic paste and green chillies for a minute.
    5. Add tomatoes, coriander and chilli powder and cook 5 minutes until soft. Pour in the dal, simmer 10 minutes and finish with garam masala and coriander.
    6. Crack 9 hot baatis gently and immerse them in the melted ghee for a few minutes, then lift out.
    7. For churma, break the remaining 3 baatis and grind to coarse crumbs. Warm 4 tbsp ghee, add the crumbs and roast on low 3 to 4 minutes until fragrant. Cool slightly and mix in sugar, cardamom and nuts.
    8. Serve the ghee-soaked baatis with hot dal poured over and churma on the side.

    Tips

    • Coarse atta and ghee rubbed in well give the baati its crumbly interior.
    • Bafla baati is a variation: boil the baatis for 10 minutes before baking for a softer result.
    • Store leftover churma in an airtight jar for up to a week.

    Serve with

    Garlic chutney, kachumber salad and buttermilk.

  • Kafuli

    Kafuli is the green curry of Garhwal, the western half of Uttarakhand, made in hill homes with whatever leafy greens grow nearby: spinach, fenugreek and sometimes mustard or lai. It was traditionally cooked in a heavy iron kadai, which deepens the colour and adds iron to the dish, a real benefit in mountain diets.

    It is thicker and more rustic than palak paneer, closer to a thick gravy. The greens are boiled, ground and simmered with a paste of soaked rice (or besan), which gives body and a slightly creamy texture. Mustard oil, garlic, ginger, cumin and a pinch of hing give it a pungent, earthy flavour, with a little curd sometimes added for tang.

    Kafuli is eaten with steamed rice or with mandua (finger millet) roti, a classic Garhwali pairing. It is home food, simple, nourishing and quick once the greens are cleaned. Choose young, tender spinach and fresh methi with small leaves; they cook faster and taste less bitter. A spoon of the hot kafuli over plain rice with a little pickle is one of the simplest and most satisfying pahadi meals.

    At a glance

    RegionUttarakhand
    CuisineGarhwali
    DietVegan
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsspinach / fenugreek leaves / rice / mustard oil

    Ingredients

    • 400 g spinach, chopped
    • 100 g fresh methi (fenugreek) leaves, chopped
    • 2 tbsp raw rice, soaked 1 hour
    • 3 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 2 dried red chillies
    • 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
    • 1 inch ginger, finely chopped
    • 2 green chillies, chopped
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 cup water
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Wash the spinach and methi several times. Boil 2 cups water, add the greens and cook 4 to 5 minutes until soft. Drain, reserving the water.
    2. Grind the cooled greens to a coarse puree. Separately grind the soaked rice with 3 tbsp water to a smooth paste.
    3. Heat mustard oil in an iron kadai until it smokes, then lower to medium. Add hing, cumin and dried red chillies.
    4. Add garlic, ginger and green chillies and fry 1 to 2 minutes until the garlic turns light golden.
    5. Add turmeric, coriander powder and the greens puree. Cook 5 minutes, stirring.
    6. Mix the rice paste with 1 cup of the reserved water and pour it in, stirring constantly to avoid lumps. Add salt.
    7. Simmer on low for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring often, until the kafuli thickens to a smooth, pourable consistency and the raw rice taste is gone. Add more reserved water if it gets too thick.
    8. Taste for salt and serve hot, straight from the kadai.

    Tips

    • Besan can replace the rice paste – whisk 2 tbsp with water before adding.
    • An iron kadai gives the authentic dark colour, but do not leave the cooked kafuli sitting in it for long.
    • Use less methi if you prefer a less bitter taste.

    Serve with

    Steamed rice or mandua (finger millet) roti.

  • Chicken Changezi

    Chicken changezi is a dish of Old Delhi's Mughlai eateries around Jama Masjid and Matia Mahal. The name nods to Changez Khan, but the dish is a modern restaurant creation, a cousin of butter chicken with a heavier hand of browned onions, cashews and cream. Places like Karim's and the smaller dhabas of the area made it a late-night favourite.

    The chicken is marinated and grilled or fried until charred, then finished in a thick, buttery gravy that is richer and spicier than makhani. Fried onions and cashews give body and sweetness, tomatoes add tang, and green chillies, garam masala and a whisper of kewra provide the Old Delhi character.

    It is eaten with rumali roti, khamiri roti or naan, usually as part of a meat-heavy feast. A small portion is plenty; this is not an everyday curry. It reheats well, and the flavours deepen overnight, so it can be made a day ahead for a party. The charred chicken is the key, so do not skip the searing step. A squeeze of lemon and a few rings of raw onion on the side cut through the richness.

    At a glance

    RegionDelhi
    CuisineMughlai
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time80 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / cashew / cream / onion / tomato

    Ingredients

    For the chicken

    • 800 g bone-in chicken, curry cut
    • 1/2 cup hung curd
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1 1/2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp oil

    For the gravy

    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 2 tbsp butter
    • 2 large onions, sliced
    • 20 cashews
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 3 tomatoes, pureed
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 1/3 cup cream
    • 1/2 tsp kewra water
    • Salt to taste
    • Chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Marinate the chicken with curd, ginger-garlic paste, chilli powder, garam masala, lemon and salt for at least 2 hours.
    2. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a heavy pan or tawa on high. Sear the chicken in batches, 4 to 5 minutes per side, until charred in places. Set aside. (Or grill at 230 C for 20 minutes.)
    3. In a pan, heat 3 tbsp oil and fry the onions on medium for 12 minutes until golden. Add cashews for the last 2 minutes. Cool and grind to a smooth paste with a little water.
    4. Heat butter in a heavy pot on medium. Add ginger-garlic paste and cook 1 minute, then the tomato puree with chilli powder, coriander, turmeric and salt. Cook 8 minutes until thick.
    5. Add the onion-cashew paste and cook on low, stirring, for 6 to 8 minutes until the gravy turns glossy and fat separates.
    6. Add 1 cup hot water and the seared chicken. Cover and simmer on low for 15 to 20 minutes until the chicken is cooked through.
    7. Add green chillies, garam masala and cream, simmer 3 minutes, then sprinkle kewra and coriander.

    Tips

    • Charring the chicken first gives the dish its smoky Old Delhi flavour.
    • Stir the onion-cashew paste constantly; it catches easily.
    • For extra richness, finish with a tablespoon of butter just before serving.

    Serve with

    Rumali roti, khamiri roti or butter naan.

  • Papdi Chaat

    Papdi chaat is one of the oldest and most loved chaats of Delhi, sold from carts and halwai shops all over the city. Its origins are often linked to Mughal-era Delhi, where chaat (from chatna, to lick) was believed to be a tasty remedy for the city's heavy food. Today it is the standard order alongside dahi bhalla and aloo tikki.

    The base is papdi, thin flaky crackers of maida flavoured with ajwain and fried crisp. They are topped with diced potato, boiled chickpeas, whisked sweetened curd and two chutneys, then showered with sev, onion, pomegranate, coriander and chaat masala. The magic is the contrast of crisp and soft, cold and spicy, sweet and sour.

    It is eaten as an afternoon or evening snack and is a fixture at weddings and parties. Assemble just before eating; papdi softens quickly under the curd. The papdis, chutneys and boiled potatoes and chickpeas can all be prepared in advance, so the final plate comes together in two minutes. Adjust the balance of sweet and green chutney to suit your taste, and do not forget the final shower of chaat masala.

    At a glance

    RegionDelhi
    CuisineDelhi street food
    DietVegetarian
    CourseStreet food
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientsmaida / curd / potato / chickpeas / tamarind chutney

    Ingredients

    For the papdi

    • 1 cup maida
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp oil or ghee
    • About 1/4 cup water
    • Oil for deep frying

    For the topping

    • 2 potatoes, boiled and diced
    • 1 cup boiled kabuli chana
    • 1 1/2 cups thick curd, whisked with 2 tbsp sugar and a pinch of salt
    • 1/2 cup tamarind-date chutney
    • 1/3 cup green chutney
    • 1 onion, finely chopped
    • 1/2 cup fine sev
    • 3 tbsp pomegranate seeds
    • Chaat masala, roasted cumin powder, red chilli powder
    • Chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Mix maida, ajwain and salt. Rub in the oil until the flour looks like breadcrumbs and holds when pressed.
    2. Add water gradually and knead into a stiff dough. Rest 15 minutes.
    3. Roll the dough thin, about 2 mm, and cut into 5 cm discs. Prick each disc several times with a fork so it does not puff.
    4. Heat oil on medium-low, around 150 C. Fry the papdis in batches for 4 to 5 minutes, turning, until crisp and pale golden. Low heat keeps them flaky. Drain and cool completely.
    5. Season the potatoes and chickpeas with a little salt, chaat masala and cumin.
    6. To assemble, arrange 6 to 8 papdis on a plate. Top with potato and chickpeas, then pour over generous spoonfuls of curd.
    7. Drizzle with tamarind and green chutneys, scatter onion, sev, pomegranate and coriander, and finish with chaat masala, cumin and chilli powder. Serve immediately.

    Tips

    • Papdi keeps for 2 weeks in an airtight jar; make a big batch.
    • Whisk the curd until completely smooth and chill it – cold curd over crisp papdi is the point.
    • Add boiled moong sprouts for extra crunch and protein.

    Serve with

    A cup of masala chai or chilled nimbu pani.

  • Aloo Tikki Chaat

    Aloo tikki is the heart of Delhi chaat. Vendors in Chandni Chowk, Lajpat Nagar and every neighbourhood market cook big potato patties slowly on wide, shallow iron tawas, pressing them flat until a thick crust forms. They are then broken open on a leaf plate and loaded with toppings in a rapid, practised sequence.

    The tikki should be crisp and golden outside and soft inside, with a lightly spiced potato filling. The toppings bring every taste at once: sweet tamarind chutney, spicy green chutney, cool sweetened curd, warm chickpea ragda, crunchy onion, sev and pomegranate. Chaat masala and roasted cumin tie it together. Nothing is subtle about it.

    It is an evening snack, eaten standing at a stall or made at home for parties. Some versions stuff the tikki with spiced chana dal or peas for extra texture. The tikkis and ragda can be made in advance, and the toppings laid out so everyone can build their own plate. A wide, heavy tawa and a little patience are the only secrets to a crust as good as a street vendor's.

    At a glance

    RegionDelhi
    CuisineDelhi street food
    DietVegetarian
    CourseStreet food
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time60 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspotato / white peas / curd / tamarind chutney

    Ingredients

    For the tikki

    • 5 medium potatoes, boiled, peeled and grated
    • 3 tbsp cornflour or arrowroot
    • 1 green chilli, finely chopped
    • 1/2 inch ginger, grated
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 1/2 tsp roasted cumin powder
    • 1/2 tsp chaat masala
    • 3/4 tsp salt
    • Oil or ghee for shallow frying

    For the ragda

    • 1 cup dried white peas (safed matar), soaked overnight
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp roasted cumin powder
    • 1/2 tsp chaat masala

    For topping

    • 1 cup thick curd, whisked with 1 tbsp sugar
    • 1/2 cup tamarind-date chutney
    • 1/2 cup green chutney
    • 1 onion, finely chopped
    • 1/2 cup fine sev
    • 1/4 cup pomegranate seeds
    • Chaat masala, roasted cumin powder and red chilli powder
    • Chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the soaked white peas with turmeric, salt and 2 1/2 cups water for 3 whistles until soft. Mash a few peas, add cumin and chaat masala, and simmer 5 minutes to thicken.
    2. Mix the grated potatoes with cornflour, green chilli, ginger, coriander, cumin, chaat masala and salt. Knead into a smooth dough.
    3. Divide into 8 portions and shape into patties 1.5 cm thick with smooth edges.
    4. Heat a heavy tawa on medium and add 3 tbsp oil or ghee. Place the tikkis on it and cook without moving for 6 to 8 minutes until a deep golden crust forms.
    5. Flip carefully, add a little more oil around them and cook the other side for 6 to 7 minutes, pressing gently with the spatula. They should sound crisp when tapped.
    6. To assemble, place 2 tikkis on a plate and press them open slightly. Spoon ragda over them, then curd, tamarind chutney and green chutney.
    7. Top with onion, sev, pomegranate and coriander, and finish with a sprinkle of chaat masala, cumin and chilli powder. Serve at once.

    Tips

    • Use floury, older potatoes boiled a few hours ahead; fresh waxy potatoes make sticky tikkis.
    • Low, steady heat builds the crust; high heat burns the outside before it crisps.
    • Assemble only when ready to eat, or the tikkis lose their crunch.

    Serve with

    Extra chutneys on the side and a cup of masala chai.

  • Mutton Korma

    Korma means braising, and the Awadhi mutton korma is one of the foundation dishes of Lucknowi cooking. Unlike the creamy, nut-heavy restaurant kormas, the classic version is built on yogurt and a paste of deeply fried onions, cooked slowly so the meat absorbs the spices and the fat rises to the surface.

    The gravy is a rich brown, thick and glossy, with a warm aroma of cardamom, cloves, mace and a few drops of kewra. Heat is moderate, and the flavour comes from properly browned onions and slow cooking rather than heavy spice. The mutton should be tender enough to pull from the bone easily.

    Korma is a dish for Eid, weddings and Sunday lunches, eaten with sheermal, tandoori roti or plain rice. Lucknow's famous Idrees and Wahid shops serve it alongside biryani. Like most braised dishes, it tastes even better the next day, so it is a good choice when cooking for a gathering. Leftover gravy is delicious mopped up with a crisp paratha at breakfast.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineAwadhi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time80 minutes
    Total time105 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / yogurt / fried onions / ghee

    Ingredients

    • 750 g bone-in mutton, curry cut
    • 1 cup thick curd, whisked
    • 1/2 cup ghee or oil
    • 3 large onions, thinly sliced
    • 2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 4 green cardamom, 2 black cardamom, 6 cloves, 1 cinnamon stick, 2 bay leaves
    • 1 1/2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • 1/4 tsp mace and green cardamom powder
    • 10 almonds, soaked and peeled (optional)
    • 1/2 tsp kewra water
    • 1 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1 1/2 cups hot water

    Method

    1. Heat ghee in a heavy pot on medium. Fry the sliced onions for 15 minutes, stirring, until evenly deep golden brown. Lift them out, leaving the ghee behind.
    2. Grind the fried onions with 3 tbsp curd (and the almonds, if using) to a smooth paste.
    3. In the same ghee, add the whole spices and let them crackle for 30 seconds. Add the mutton and salt and sear on high for 8 to 10 minutes until browned.
    4. Add ginger-garlic paste and cook 2 minutes. Lower the heat and add chilli powder, coriander powder and turmeric with a splash of water; stir 1 minute.
    5. Add the remaining curd gradually, stirring constantly, then the onion paste. Cook on medium-low for 10 minutes until the masala thickens and ghee separates.
    6. Pour in the hot water, cover and cook on low for 50 to 60 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the mutton is tender and the gravy thick with ghee floating on top.
    7. Add garam masala, mace-cardamom powder and kewra. Cover and leave on the lowest heat for 5 minutes, then rest before serving.

    Tips

    • The colour and flavour of the korma come from the fried onions; uneven or burnt onions make it bitter.
    • Use goat meat from the shoulder for the best balance of fat and tenderness.
    • Pressure cooking (4 to 5 whistles) speeds things up; reduce the water to 1 cup.

    Serve with

    Sheermal, tandoori roti or plain basmati rice.

  • Shami Kebab

    Shami kebabs are found across North India and Pakistan, but Lucknow and Hyderabad claim them most strongly. Unlike galouti, they are made from boneless meat boiled with chana dal and whole spices, then ground together. The dal binds the mixture and gives the kebabs their characteristic soft, slightly grainy texture.

    A well-made shami is crisp on the outside and tender within, with a filling of chopped onion, mint and green chilli that adds freshness and crunch. The spicing is warm rather than hot: cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, black pepper and dried red chillies cooked into the meat itself. An egg helps the kebabs hold together in the pan.

    They are made in large batches before Eid and Ramzan iftars, frozen and fried as needed. Shamis are also served at tea time, tucked into bread rolls, or as part of a dinner spread with paratha and chutney. A tray of frozen shamis means a hot snack is always minutes away when guests drop by.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineAwadhi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time80 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsboneless mutton / chana dal / egg / onion / mint

    Ingredients

    For cooking

    • 500 g boneless mutton, cut into small pieces
    • 1/3 cup chana dal, soaked 1 hour
    • 1 onion, sliced
    • 1 1/2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 6 dried red chillies
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 4 green cardamom, 1 black cardamom
    • 6 cloves, 1 cinnamon stick, 1 bay leaf
    • 1 tsp shahi jeera
    • 1 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 cups water

    For binding and stuffing

    • 1 egg
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 1 small onion, finely chopped
    • 2 tbsp chopped mint
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 2 green chillies, finely chopped
    • 1 tsp lemon juice

    To fry

    • Oil or ghee for shallow frying
    • 1 beaten egg for dipping (optional)

    Method

    1. Put mutton, drained chana dal, sliced onion, ginger-garlic paste, whole spices, salt and water in a pressure cooker. Cook 5 to 6 whistles until the mutton is very soft and the dal is mushy.
    2. Open and cook uncovered on medium heat, stirring, until all the liquid evaporates and the mixture is completely dry, 8 to 10 minutes. This step is crucial; any moisture makes the kebabs break.
    3. Cool, remove the bay leaf and cinnamon, and grind the mixture to a fine, smooth dough without water.
    4. Add the egg and garam masala and knead well. Mix the chopped onion, mint, coriander, green chillies and lemon juice separately for the stuffing.
    5. Take a lemon-sized ball, flatten it, place a teaspoon of stuffing in the centre, close and flatten into a 6 cm patty. Repeat.
    6. Heat a little oil on a tawa on medium. Dip each kebab in beaten egg if using, and shallow fry 2 to 3 minutes per side until deep golden and crisp.
    7. Drain on paper and serve hot.

    Tips

    • If the mixture feels soft, add a tablespoon of roasted besan or breadcrumbs.
    • Shaped kebabs freeze well for 2 months – freeze on a tray, then bag them, and fry from frozen on low heat.
    • Grind in short bursts so the motor does not heat the mixture and make it pasty.

    Serve with

    Mint-coriander chutney, onion rings and lemon, or tucked into a paratha.

  • Lucknowi Chicken Biryani

    Lucknowi or Awadhi biryani comes from the nawabi kitchens of Lucknow, where cooks perfected the pukki style: meat and rice cooked separately and then layered and finished on dum. It is the opposite of the fiery Hyderabadi kacchi biryani, prized instead for restraint, perfume and the separate, delicately flavoured grains.

    The chicken is first cooked in yogurt and whole spices to make a light, aromatic korma-like base with its own stock. Parboiled basmati is layered over it with saffron milk, kewra, rose water, fried onions and ghee, and the pot is sealed with dough. The result is subtle and fragrant, with gentle heat and moist, tender meat.

    Biryani is the centrepiece of Eid, weddings and Sunday feasts, served with burani raita or a simple onion salad. In Lucknow, it would be followed by phirni or shahi tukda. The chicken base can be made a few hours ahead, and the rice parboiled just before layering, so the pot can go on dum while guests arrive. Opening the seal at the table, with the burst of saffron and kewra aroma, is part of the ritual.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineAwadhi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseRice
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time75 minutes
    Total time115 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / basmati rice / yogurt / saffron / fried onions

    Ingredients

    For the chicken

    • 1 kg chicken, curry cut
    • 1 cup thick curd
    • 1 1/2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp white pepper powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 4 tbsp ghee
    • 4 green cardamom, 2 black cardamom, 6 cloves, 1 cinnamon stick, 1 blade mace, 2 bay leaves
    • 1 cup fried onions (birista), crushed
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 1 cup water

    For the rice

    • 2 1/2 cups aged basmati rice, soaked 30 minutes
    • 1 tbsp salt
    • 2 green cardamom, 4 cloves, 1 bay leaf, 1 tsp shahi jeera

    For layering

    • A generous pinch of saffron in 1/4 cup warm milk
    • 1 tsp kewra water
    • 1/2 tsp rose water
    • 3 tbsp ghee
    • 1/2 cup fried onions
    • 2 tbsp chopped mint
    • Atta dough to seal the lid

    Method

    1. Marinate chicken with curd, ginger-garlic paste, chilli powder, white pepper and salt for at least 1 hour.
    2. Heat ghee in a heavy biryani pot on medium. Add the whole spices and let them crackle for 30 seconds.
    3. Add the chicken with its marinade and the crushed fried onions. Cook on medium-high for 10 minutes, stirring, then add water, cover and simmer 15 minutes until the chicken is almost cooked and the gravy reduced to about 1 cup. Stir in garam masala.
    4. Meanwhile bring 3 litres of water to a rolling boil with salt and the rice spices. Add the drained rice and cook 6 to 7 minutes until 70 percent done – the grain should break with a firm white centre. Drain.
    5. Spread the rice over the chicken in an even layer. Drizzle with saffron milk, kewra, rose water and melted ghee, and scatter fried onions and mint.
    6. Cover with the lid and seal the edge with a rope of atta dough.
    7. Place the pot on a tawa over high heat for 5 minutes, then lower to the minimum and cook on dum for 25 minutes.
    8. Rest 10 minutes off the heat before breaking the seal. Serve by scooping from the side so each portion has rice and chicken.

    Tips

    • Parboiling the rice correctly is the crucial step; overcooked rice turns mushy on dum.
    • Fry your own onions thin and slowly until deep golden; they flavour both the chicken and the rice.
    • The salt in the boiling water should taste like sea water – the rice gets no other seasoning.

    Serve with

    Burani raita, onion-cucumber salad and mirchi ka salan or a light korma.

  • Galouti Kebab

    Galouti kebab is the pride of Lucknow. Legend says it was created for Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula, who had lost his teeth but not his love of meat, so his cooks devised a kebab soft enough to melt in the mouth. Galouti itself means soft. Tunday Kababi in Aminabad, famous for a secret spice mix said to run to over a hundred ingredients, made it known well beyond the city.

    The secret is texture. Mutton mince is ground to a paste, tenderised with raw papaya, bound with roasted gram flour and perfumed with cardamom, mace, saffron, rose and kewra. The patties are shallow fried in ghee until a thin crust forms while the inside stays almost creamy. A puff of clove smoke adds the finishing touch.

    Galoutis are served as a starter at Awadhi feasts and weddings, traditionally with ulte tawe ka paratha, a thin, flaky bread cooked on an upturned griddle, and sliced onions with mint chutney. Making them at home takes time, especially the grinding, but the mixture can be prepared a day ahead and kept chilled. A pinch of the spice blend sprinkled over the cooked kebabs adds a final burst of fragrance.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineAwadhi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time65 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton mince / raw papaya / besan / ghee / saffron

    Ingredients

    For the kebab mixture

    • 500 g mutton mince, with about 15 percent fat
    • 2 tbsp raw papaya paste (skin on)
    • 1 1/2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 tbsp roasted besan
    • 3 tbsp fried onions, crushed to a paste
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • A pinch of saffron in 1 tbsp warm milk
    • 1/2 tsp kewra water
    • 1/2 tsp rose water
    • 1 tbsp ghee

    For the galouti masala

    • 6 green cardamom
    • 1 black cardamom
    • 4 cloves
    • 1 small blade mace
    • 1/4 nutmeg
    • 1/2 tsp shahi jeera
    • 1/2 tsp black peppercorns
    • 1 tsp dried rose petals

    To cook

    • 4 tbsp ghee
    • 1 piece charcoal and 2 cloves for smoking (optional)

    Method

    1. Grind the galouti masala ingredients to a fine powder.
    2. Pass the mince through the fine plate of a mincer twice, or blitz it in a food processor in batches until it becomes a smooth, sticky paste with no visible fibres.
    3. Mix the mince with papaya paste, ginger-garlic paste, roasted besan, fried onion paste, chilli powder, salt and 1 1/2 tsp of the galouti masala. Add saffron milk, kewra, rose water and 1 tbsp ghee and knead 2 to 3 minutes.
    4. Cover and refrigerate for 4 hours, no longer – papaya will turn the meat mushy if left overnight.
    5. For smoke, heat the charcoal on a flame until glowing, place it in a small steel bowl set in the meat, add cloves and a few drops of ghee, cover for 5 minutes, then remove.
    6. With oiled hands, shape the mixture into thin patties about 6 cm across and 1 cm thick. They will be soft; chill them for 15 minutes if hard to handle.
    7. Heat ghee in a flat non-stick pan on medium. Fry 4 to 5 patties at a time for 2 to 3 minutes per side, turning once very gently with a flat spatula, until a deep brown crust forms.
    8. Drain briefly and serve immediately.

    Tips

    • Fat in the mince is essential for softness; very lean mince makes dry, crumbly kebabs.
    • Roast the besan on low until nutty and slightly darker before adding.
    • Flip only once; the patties are fragile until the crust sets.

    Serve with

    Ulte tawe ka paratha or sheermal, with onion rings and mint chutney.