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Tag: Medium spice

  • Sarson da Saag

    Sarson da saag is the taste of a Punjabi winter. When the fields turn yellow with mustard flowers between November and February, the tender leaves are picked by the bundle and cooked for hours in clay pots over slow fires. It is a peasant dish that has become a symbol of rural Punjab, often mentioned in the same breath as makki di roti.

    The flavour is earthy, slightly bitter and peppery from the mustard, softened by spinach and bathua (chenopodium). Nothing about it is smooth like a puree; good saag is coarsely churned with a wooden mathani so it keeps some texture. A generous tadka of ghee, garlic, ginger and green chillies brings it alive.

    It is eaten for lunch with makki di roti topped with white butter, a piece of jaggery, raw onion and a glass of lassi. Families often cook a big batch and reheat it over several days, since the flavour deepens with time. In village homes the leftover saag is also eaten cold with a fresh roti and a spoon of butter for breakfast.

    At a glance

    RegionPunjab
    CuisinePunjabi
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time75 minutes
    Total time115 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmustard greens / spinach / bathua / makki atta / ghee

    Ingredients

    For the saag

    • 1 kg sarson (mustard greens), tender leaves and stems
    • 300 g palak (spinach)
    • 150 g bathua (or extra spinach)
    • 2 inch ginger, chopped
    • 8 garlic cloves
    • 3 to 4 green chillies
    • 1 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1 1/2 cups water
    • 3 tbsp makki atta (maize flour)

    For the tadka

    • 3 tbsp ghee
    • 1 large onion, finely chopped
    • 6 garlic cloves, chopped
    • 1 inch ginger, finely chopped
    • 1 tomato, chopped (optional)
    • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • White butter to serve

    Method

    1. Strip the mustard leaves, peel the thick lower stems and chop everything finely. Chop spinach and bathua. Wash in several changes of water, lifting the greens out so grit stays behind.
    2. Put the greens in a large pressure cooker or heavy pot with ginger, garlic, green chillies, salt and water. Pressure cook 3 whistles on medium, or simmer covered in a pot for 45 minutes, until the stems are completely soft.
    3. Mash the greens with a wooden churner or pulse briefly with a hand blender to a coarse texture – not a smooth puree.
    4. Return the pot to low heat. Whisk the makki atta with 1/4 cup water and stir it in gradually. Cook uncovered on low for 20 to 30 minutes, stirring every few minutes, until the saag thickens and loses its raw flour taste.
    5. For the tadka, heat ghee in a pan on medium. Fry the onion until golden, about 6 minutes, then add garlic and ginger and cook until the garlic turns light brown.
    6. Add tomato if using and cook 3 minutes until soft, then the chilli powder. Pour the tadka over the saag, stir and simmer 5 more minutes.
    7. Serve hot with a generous dollop of white butter on top.

    Tips

    • If the mustard is very bitter, increase the spinach share or add a small piece of jaggery.
    • Saag freezes well in portions; make the tadka fresh when reheating.
    • Choose bunches with thin stems and no yellowing – older mustard is fibrous and pungent.

    Serve with

    Makki di roti with white butter, jaggery, raw onion and lassi.

  • Rajma Chawal

    Few dishes carry as much nostalgia in North India as rajma chawal. Kidney beans came to India from the Americas via Europe, but Punjabi, Himachali and Jammu kitchens adopted them so completely that the small red Jammu rajma and the speckled chitra variety are now prized regional produce in their own right.

    Well-made rajma is creamy without being mushy, each bean soft enough to crush on the tongue, sitting in a thick, spiced gravy that clings to rice. The masala is built on slowly browned onions, ginger, garlic and tomatoes, with a little garam masala and kasuri methi at the end for warmth.

    It is the classic Sunday lunch, cooked in a pressure cooker while the family wakes up, and the dish many North Indians crave most when they live away from home. A plate of rajma chawal with sliced onion, a green chilli and a spoon of ghee on top needs nothing else.

    At a glance

    RegionPunjab
    CuisinePunjabi
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time65 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrajma / onion / tomato / basmati rice

    Ingredients

    For the rajma

    • 1 cup rajma (Jammu or chitra), soaked 10 hours
    • 4 cups water
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 3 tbsp mustard oil or any oil
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 bay leaf, 1 black cardamom
    • 2 medium onions, grated or finely chopped
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 green chillies, chopped
    • 3 tomatoes, pureed
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 1 tsp kasuri methi
    • Chopped coriander

    For the rice

    • 1 1/2 cups basmati rice, soaked 20 minutes
    • 1 tsp salt
    • Plenty of water for boiling

    Method

    1. Drain the soaked rajma, rinse and pressure cook with 4 cups fresh water and salt: 1 whistle on high, then 20 to 25 minutes on low. Let the pressure drop naturally. A bean should mash easily between two fingers; if not, cook another 10 minutes.
    2. Heat oil in a heavy pan until it just smokes (if using mustard oil), then lower to medium. Add cumin, bay leaf and black cardamom.
    3. Add onions and cook 10 to 12 minutes, stirring often, until deep golden brown. Add ginger-garlic paste and green chillies and saute 1 minute.
    4. Add tomato puree with the powdered spices and a pinch of salt. Cook on medium-low for 8 to 10 minutes until the masala darkens and oil floats at the edges.
    5. Add the rajma with all its cooking liquid. Mash about a quarter cup of beans against the pan to thicken the gravy.
    6. Simmer uncovered on low for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the gravy is thick and creamy. Finish with garam masala, crushed kasuri methi and coriander.
    7. Meanwhile boil the rice in 8 cups salted water for 9 to 10 minutes until just done, drain in a colander and leave covered for 5 minutes.

    Tips

    • Never add salt-free tomatoes to undercooked rajma and expect it to soften – the acid stops the beans from cooking further. Cook beans fully first.
    • Jammu rajma cooks faster and creamier than large red kidney beans.
    • Discard the soaking water; it helps reduce the bloating rajma is known for.

    Serve with

    Steamed basmati rice, sliced onion, a green chilli and a spoon of ghee on top.

  • Chole Bhature

    Chole bhature is the breakfast of Punjabi weekends and the street food of Delhi, where stalls in Paharganj and Kamla Nagar have served it for generations. The combination travelled with Punjabi families after 1947 and quickly became a staple of North Indian food culture, sold from dawn by vendors who fry bhature to order.

    The chole are dark brown, sour and spicy, cooked with a bag of tea leaves or dried amla for colour and spiced with roasted anardana, amchur and a generous hand of chole masala. The bhature are large, puffed and chewy-soft inside, slightly tangy from yogurt-fermented dough, with crisp edges that tear apart easily.

    It is heavy food meant for a lazy late morning or a festive lunch. A plate usually comes with sliced onions, pickled green chillies, a wedge of lemon and often a glass of sweet or salted lassi, after which most people need a nap. At home the dough is usually set the night before, so the whole family can sit down to hot bhature by late morning.

    At a glance

    RegionPunjab
    CuisinePunjabi
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time60 minutes
    Total time90 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientschickpeas / maida / yogurt / onion / tomato

    Ingredients

    For the chole

    • 1 1/2 cups kabuli chana, soaked overnight
    • 2 black tea bags or 1 tbsp loose tea tied in muslin
    • 2 dried amla pieces (optional)
    • 1 bay leaf, 2 black cardamom
    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 2 onions, finely chopped
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 2 tomatoes, pureed
    • 2 tbsp chole masala
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp anardana powder
    • 1/2 tsp amchur
    • Salt to taste
    • 1 inch ginger, julienned, and coriander to garnish

    For the bhature

    • 2 cups maida
    • 2 tbsp fine sooji (semolina)
    • 1/2 cup sour curd
    • 1/2 tsp baking soda
    • 1/2 tsp baking powder
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp oil, plus oil for deep frying
    • Warm water as needed

    Method

    1. Make the bhatura dough first: mix maida, sooji, sugar, salt, baking soda and baking powder. Add curd and 2 tbsp oil and rub in, then knead with warm water to a soft, slightly sticky dough. Coat with oil, cover and rest 2 to 3 hours in a warm place.
    2. Drain the chana and pressure cook with 4 cups water, salt, tea bags, amla, bay leaf and black cardamom for 1 whistle on high, then 15 minutes on low. The chana should be very soft and dark. Discard the tea bags.
    3. Heat oil in a kadai on medium, add cumin, then onions. Fry 10 to 12 minutes, stirring, until deep brown – this colour drives the look of the chole.
    4. Add ginger-garlic paste and green chillies for a minute, then the tomato puree, chole masala, chilli powder and anardana. Cook 8 to 10 minutes until oil separates.
    5. Add the chana with its cooking water, mash a few chickpeas, and simmer uncovered on low for 15 to 20 minutes until the gravy is thick and clings to the chana. Stir in amchur and garnish with ginger julienne and coriander.
    6. For the bhature, heat oil in a deep kadai to about 190 C – a pinch of dough should rise immediately with vigorous bubbles.
    7. Divide the dough into 8 balls. Oil the rolling surface and roll each into an oval about 5 mm thick; avoid flour, which burns in the oil.
    8. Slide one bhatura into the oil and gently press it down with a slotted spoon so it puffs fully, about 20 seconds. Flip and fry until light golden on both sides. Drain and serve immediately.

    Tips

    • If the oil is not hot enough, bhature absorb oil and stay flat; if too hot, they brown before puffing.
    • Rested dough should look slightly risen with a few bubbles; overnight in the fridge also works.
    • The chole improve after resting for an hour, so cook them first.

    Serve with

    Sliced onions, pickled green chillies, lemon wedges and a tall glass of lassi.

  • Idli Sambar

    Idli sambar is the quintessential Tamil breakfast. Idlis are soft, spongy steamed cakes made from a fermented batter of parboiled rice and urad dal, while sambar is a tangy lentil stew made with toor dal, tamarind, vegetables and sambar powder. Together with coconut chutney, they make a light, wholesome and filling meal.

    A good idli is white, soft and fluffy, with a slightly tangy flavour from fermentation. The sambar is sour, slightly sweet and spiced, with vegetables such as drumstick, shallots, brinjal and tomatoes. Tamil homes often make sambar with small onions, called vengaya sambar. It is tangy and comforting. Each spoonful is satisfying and warm.

    Idli sambar is eaten for breakfast across South India and in Udupi restaurants everywhere. Idlis are easy to digest, making them a favourite for children and people recovering from illness. Leftover idlis can be fried with spices to make idli upma or fried idli. Fresh batter keeps in the refrigerator for 3-4 days, ready for quick breakfasts.

    At a glance

    RegionTamil Nadu
    CuisineTamil
    DietVegan
    CourseBreakfast
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time40 minutes
    Total time70 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsidli rice / urad dal / toor dal / tamarind

    Ingredients

    For the idli

    • 2 cups idli rice (parboiled)
    • 1/2 cup whole urad dal
    • 1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 1 1/2 tsp salt
    • Water as needed

    For the sambar

    • 1/2 cup toor dal
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tbsp tamarind pulp soaked in 1 cup water
    • 10 shallots, peeled
    • 1 drumstick, cut into pieces
    • 1 tomato, chopped
    • 2 tbsp sambar powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 tsp jaggery
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 1 dried red chilli
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 10 curry leaves
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Soak the rice in water for 5-6 hours. Separately soak the urad dal and fenugreek seeds for 5-6 hours.
    2. Grind the urad dal with cold water to a smooth, fluffy batter. Grind the rice to a slightly coarse batter. Mix both with salt, cover and ferment for 8-12 hours until doubled.
    3. For the sambar, pressure cook the toor dal with turmeric and 2 cups water for 4 whistles. Mash.
    4. Heat 1 tbsp oil, saute the shallots for 3 minutes, then add drumstick and tomato. Add tamarind water, sambar powder, salt and jaggery and simmer for 10 minutes until the vegetables are tender.
    5. Add the mashed dal and simmer for 5 minutes. Temper with mustard seeds, fenugreek, red chilli, asafoetida and curry leaves in the remaining oil and pour over. Garnish with coriander.
    6. Grease idli plates, pour batter into each mould and steam for 10-12 minutes on medium-high until a toothpick comes out clean.
    7. Rest for 2 minutes, then scoop out the idlis with a wet spoon.

    Tips

    • Use parboiled idli rice for the softest idlis.
    • Do not overmix the fermented batter; it releases air and makes idlis dense.
    • Sambar thickens on standing; adjust with hot water.

    Serve with

    Coconut chutney, sambar and a dollop of ghee.

  • Parsi Akuri

    Akuri is the Parsi version of scrambled eggs, a breakfast staple in Parsi homes and the Irani cafes of Mumbai and Pune. Eggs are cooked slowly with onion, tomato, green chilli, ginger, turmeric and coriander until just set but still creamy and slightly runny. The texture should be soft and loose, never dry.

    The flavour is savoury, spiced and fresh, with the sweetness of slowly cooked onions and heat from green chilli. Parsis are famously fond of eggs, and akuri is one of many egg dishes in their cuisine. A richer version, Bharuchi akuri, adds cashews, raisins and cream. The base version is everyday food.

    Akuri is served on toast or with soft pav, along with a cup of sweet chai. It also makes a quick weeknight dinner. Kyani and Britannia in Mumbai are among the old Irani cafes that serve it. The trick is to take the pan off the heat while the eggs still look wet, so they finish cooking gently on the plate.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineParsi
    DietEggetarian
    CourseBreakfast
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time10 minutes
    Total time20 minutes
    Serves2
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientseggs / onion / tomato / green chilli

    Ingredients

    • 4 eggs
    • 2 tbsp milk
    • 1 1/2 tbsp butter
    • 1 small onion, finely chopped
    • 1 tsp grated ginger
    • 1-2 green chillies, finely chopped
    • 1 small tomato, finely chopped
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1/4 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Whisk the eggs with milk and salt until frothy.
    2. Melt butter in a non-stick pan on medium-low heat. Add onion and cook for 4-5 minutes until soft and pale golden.
    3. Add ginger and green chillies and cook for 1 minute.
    4. Add tomato, turmeric and chilli powder and cook for 2 minutes until the tomato softens.
    5. Lower the heat to the minimum and pour in the eggs. Stir slowly and continuously with a spatula, pushing from the edges to the centre.
    6. Cook for 2-3 minutes until the eggs are softly set but still creamy and slightly runny. Turn off the heat; they will continue cooking.
    7. Stir in coriander and serve immediately.

    Tips

    • Low heat is key; high heat makes the eggs dry and rubbery.
    • Take the pan off the heat while the eggs still look slightly wet.
    • Add a few drops of cream for extra richness.

    Serve with

    Buttered toast or soft pav and Irani chai.

  • Parsi Mutton Dhansak

    Dhansak is the best-known Parsi dish, a hearty meal of mutton cooked with lentils and vegetables, eaten traditionally on Sundays. In Parsi households, dhansak is not served at festivals or celebrations, because it was eaten on the fourth day after a death, when the mourning meat fast ends. On ordinary Sundays, however, it is beloved comfort food.

    The dish combines several lentils with pumpkin, brinjal, fenugreek leaves and tomato, all cooked until soft and pureed into a thick, smooth gravy. Mutton pieces simmer in this gravy with dhansak masala, a warm blend of spices. The flavour is earthy, slightly sweet and sour, and gently spiced. It is hearty and filling.

    Dhansak is served with brown rice, which is basmati cooked with caramelised sugar and whole spices, and kachumber salad and small mutton kebabs. Lemon wedges and fried onions complete the plate. Chicken dhansak is a popular alternative. Many Parsi restaurants in Mumbai serve dhansak only on Sundays, which keeps the tradition alive.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineParsi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time90 minutes
    Total time120 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / toor dal / pumpkin / brinjal

    Ingredients

    For the dal and vegetables

    • 1/2 cup toor dal
    • 2 tbsp masoor dal
    • 2 tbsp moong dal
    • 2 tbsp chana dal
    • 1 cup red pumpkin, cubed
    • 1 small brinjal, cubed
    • 1 potato, cubed
    • 1 cup fresh methi leaves
    • 2 tomatoes, chopped
    • 1 onion, chopped
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 4 cups water

    For the mutton

    • 750 g mutton, curry cut
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 3 tbsp ghee
    • 2 onions, finely sliced
    • 2 tbsp dhansak masala
    • 1 tsp sambhar masala
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tbsp tamarind pulp
    • 1 tbsp jaggery
    • 2 tbsp chopped mint and coriander

    Method

    1. Wash and soak the dals together for 30 minutes.
    2. Marinate the mutton with ginger-garlic paste and salt and pressure cook with 1 cup water for 6-7 whistles until tender.
    3. Pressure cook the dals with the vegetables, methi, tomatoes, onion, turmeric and water for 4-5 whistles until everything is very soft.
    4. Blend the dal and vegetables to a smooth puree.
    5. Heat ghee in a heavy pot on medium. Fry the sliced onions for 10-12 minutes until golden brown.
    6. Add dhansak masala, sambhar masala and chilli powder and stir for 30 seconds. Add the mutton with its stock and fry for 3 minutes.
    7. Pour in the dal puree, add tamarind and jaggery, and simmer for 15-20 minutes, stirring often, until thick and well blended. Adjust salt and garnish with mint and coriander.

    Tips

    • The consistency should be thick but pourable; adjust with hot water.
    • Parsi dhansak masala is available in Mumbai stores and gives the authentic flavour.
    • Make the caramelised brown rice by cooking basmati with sugar browned in oil and whole spices.

    Serve with

    Caramelised brown rice, kachumber salad and mutton kebabs.

  • Patra ni Machhi

    Patra ni machhi is a celebratory Parsi dish of fish steamed in banana leaves, served at weddings, navjotes and other festive occasions. Fillets of pomfret are coated thickly with a green chutney of fresh coconut, coriander, mint, green chillies and lime, then wrapped in banana leaf parcels and steamed. It is a Parsi classic.

    The flavour is fresh, bright and herby, with sweetness from coconut and a sharp edge of lime and chilli. Steaming keeps the fish moist and tender, while the banana leaf adds a delicate fragrance. Unwrapping the parcel at the table is part of the pleasure. It feels light and elegant on the plate.

    It is served as part of a lagan nu bhonu, the Parsi wedding feast, often eaten on banana leaves. At home, it makes an impressive yet simple dish for guests. The chutney can be made a day ahead, and the parcels assembled in the morning and steamed just before serving, which takes the pressure off.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineParsi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspomfret / coconut / coriander / banana leaf

    Ingredients

    For the fish

    • 2 medium pomfrets, cut into 8 fillets or thick slices
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tbsp lime juice

    For the green chutney

    • 1 cup freshly grated coconut
    • 1 cup chopped coriander
    • 1/4 cup mint leaves
    • 4 green chillies
    • 6 garlic cloves
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp lime juice

    For wrapping

    • 4 banana leaves, cut into 8 squares
    • Kitchen string

    Method

    1. Rub the fish with salt, turmeric and lime juice and set aside for 15 minutes.
    2. Grind all the chutney ingredients to a thick, smooth paste with very little water.
    3. Soften the banana leaves by passing them over a flame for a few seconds until glossy.
    4. Coat each fish piece generously with chutney on both sides.
    5. Place each piece in the centre of a banana leaf square, fold the sides over to make a parcel, and tie with string.
    6. Steam the parcels in a steamer on medium-high for 15-20 minutes until the fish is cooked through and flakes easily.
    7. Serve the parcels hot, letting each person unwrap their own.

    Tips

    • Make the chutney thick so it stays on the fish while steaming.
    • If banana leaves are not available, use parchment paper.
    • Pomfret is traditional, but any firm white fish works.

    Serve with

    Steamed rice or as part of a Parsi lagan nu bhonu feast.

  • Sindhi Kadhi

    Sindhi kadhi is completely different from the yoghurt-based kadhis of Gujarat, Rajasthan and Punjab. It uses no curd at all; instead, gram flour is roasted in oil until deep golden and simmered with tomatoes, tamarind and an assortment of vegetables. It is the traditional Sunday lunch in Sindhi homes, eaten with rice and fried potatoes.

    The gravy is thin, tangy and gently spiced, with a nutty depth from the roasted besan and a sharp sourness from tamarind and tomato. The vegetables, typically drumsticks, okra, potatoes, carrots, cluster beans and sometimes colocasia, give it substance and texture. Each vegetable adds its own flavour. Nothing is wasted in the pot.

    Sindhi kadhi chawal is served with aloo tuk, double-fried smashed potatoes, and papad. The kadhi is light enough to have generous servings and is especially popular in summer. Leftovers taste better the next day. Many Sindhi families also add a few pieces of fried colocasia (arbi) to the kadhi for extra flavour and texture.

    At a glance

    RegionSindhi
    CuisineSindhi
    DietVegan
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time40 minutes
    Total time60 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbesan / tomato / drumstick / tamarind

    Ingredients

    • 1/3 cup (35 g) besan
    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 1/4 tsp asafoetida
    • 10 curry leaves
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tsp grated ginger
    • 3 tomatoes, pureed
    • 5 cups water
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1 drumstick, cut into 3 inch pieces
    • 6 okra (bhindi), trimmed and halved
    • 1 potato, cubed
    • 1 carrot, cut into batons
    • 8-10 cluster beans (gavar), cut in half
    • 2 tbsp tamarind pulp
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Heat oil in a heavy pot on medium. Add cumin, fenugreek seeds, asafoetida, curry leaves and green chillies and cook for 20 seconds.
    2. Add the besan and roast on low heat, stirring continuously, for 6-8 minutes until it turns golden brown and smells nutty.
    3. Add ginger, then the tomato puree, and cook for 3-4 minutes, stirring to avoid lumps.
    4. Gradually add the water, whisking to keep it smooth. Add turmeric, chilli powder and salt.
    5. Bring to a boil, then add the drumstick, potato, carrot and cluster beans. Simmer on medium-low for 15 minutes.
    6. Lightly fry the okra in a little oil for 3-4 minutes so it does not turn slimy, and add it to the kadhi.
    7. Add tamarind pulp and simmer for 8-10 minutes until all vegetables are tender. Garnish with coriander.

    Tips

    • Roasting the besan well is crucial; underdone besan tastes raw.
    • Fry the okra separately to keep it from making the kadhi slimy.
    • Adjust the sourness with more tamarind or a squeeze of lemon.

    Serve with

    Steamed rice, aloo tuk and papad.

  • Chicken Xacuti

    Xacuti, pronounced sha-coo-tee, is one of Goa's most complex curries, made by both Hindu and Catholic communities. Its name comes from the Portuguese chacuti, and the dish is famous for its gravy of grated coconut roasted until dark with a large number of whole spices, including poppy seeds, star anise, nutmeg, mace and cloves.

    The flavour is deep, nutty and aromatic, with a warm spiciness rather than sharp heat. The roasted coconut gives a dark brown colour and a slightly smoky richness, while the spices layer sweetness and fragrance. Chicken on the bone is most common, though mutton xacuti is equally popular. Prawn versions exist too.

    Xacuti is a feast dish, served at weddings and festivals and made at home on Sundays. It is eaten with pao, sannas or rice, and like most Goan curries it tastes better the next day. Leftover xacuti is often eaten with bread for breakfast the next morning. Mutton takes longer but is worth it.

    At a glance

    RegionGoa
    CuisineGoan
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time80 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / coconut / poppy seeds / star anise

    Ingredients

    For the marinade

    • 750 g chicken on the bone, curry cut
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp salt

    For the xacuti masala

    • 1 1/2 cups freshly grated coconut
    • 8 dried Kashmiri chillies
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp fennel seeds
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 1 tbsp poppy seeds
    • 6 cloves
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 2 star anise
    • 4 green cardamoms
    • 1/4 nutmeg, grated
    • 2 blades mace
    • 1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds

    For the curry

    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 2 onions, finely chopped
    • 1 tomato, chopped
    • 1 tbsp tamarind pulp
    • 2 cups hot water
    • Salt to taste
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Marinate the chicken with ginger-garlic paste, turmeric and salt for 30 minutes.
    2. Dry roast the whole spices and chillies on low heat for 3-4 minutes until fragrant and slightly darker. Remove.
    3. Roast the coconut in the same pan on medium-low for 8-10 minutes, stirring constantly, until evenly dark golden brown.
    4. Grind the roasted spices and coconut with about 1 cup water to a fine, smooth paste.
    5. Heat oil in a heavy pot on medium. Cook the onions for 8-10 minutes until golden brown. Add tomato and cook for 3 minutes until soft.
    6. Add the chicken and fry on medium-high for 5 minutes until lightly browned.
    7. Add the ground masala and fry for 5 minutes, stirring often, until it darkens and the oil separates.
    8. Pour in hot water, add tamarind and salt, and simmer covered on low for 25 minutes until the chicken is tender and the gravy is thick. Garnish with coriander.

    Tips

    • Roast the coconut slowly and evenly; it gives xacuti its colour and depth.
    • Poppy seeds should be roasted lightly; they burn very fast.
    • If the gravy is too thick, add hot water to adjust.

    Serve with

    Goan pao, sannas or steamed rice.

  • Goan Fish Curry

    Xitti kodi, rice and curry, is the everyday meal of Goa, and the fish curry at its heart is cooked in almost every Goan home. Fresh coconut is ground with Kashmiri chillies, coriander seeds, turmeric, garlic and tamarind into a smooth paste, then simmered with fish such as kingfish, pomfret or mackerel. The result is a vibrant orange curry.

    The taste is sour first from tamarind or kokum, followed by the gentle heat of Kashmiri chilli and the creamy sweetness of coconut. Some cooks add a little tirphal, a Sichuan-pepper-like spice, for a citrusy aroma, and others add slit green chillies and onion. The gravy is thin enough to soak into rice.

    Goans eat fish curry for lunch nearly every day, usually with red parboiled rice and a fried fish on the side. The curry tastes better reheated. Many Goan families keep a jar of ground masala ready to make the curry quickly on busy days. Mackerel, sardines and prawns are equally popular, depending on what the market offers that morning.

    At a glance

    RegionGoa
    CuisineGoan
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time40 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientskingfish / coconut / kashmiri chillies / tamarind

    Ingredients

    For the fish

    • 500 g kingfish (surmai), cut into steaks
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric

    For the masala

    • 1 1/2 cups freshly grated coconut
    • 8 dried Kashmiri chillies, soaked 15 minutes
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/2 tsp black peppercorns
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 5 garlic cloves
    • 1 inch ginger
    • 1 tbsp tamarind pulp

    For the curry

    • 2 tbsp coconut oil
    • 1 small onion, finely sliced
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tomato, chopped (optional)
    • 1 1/2 cups water
    • Salt to taste
    • 3-4 tirphal (optional)

    Method

    1. Rub the fish with salt and turmeric and set aside for 15 minutes.
    2. Grind the coconut, soaked chillies, coriander, cumin, peppercorns, turmeric, garlic, ginger and tamarind with about 3/4 cup water to a very smooth paste.
    3. Heat coconut oil in a wide pan on medium. Add the onion and green chillies and cook for 3-4 minutes until soft and translucent.
    4. Add the tomato if using and cook for 2 minutes. Add the ground masala and fry for 3-4 minutes until fragrant.
    5. Pour in the water, add salt and tirphal and bring to a gentle boil. Simmer for 5 minutes.
    6. Slide in the fish pieces and cook on low for 6-8 minutes without stirring, until the fish is just cooked through. Rest for 10 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Grind the masala very smooth; a grainy paste gives a coarse curry.
    • Kashmiri chillies give colour without too much heat; add one spicy Goan chilli if you want more bite.
    • Do not boil hard after adding coconut; it can split.

    Serve with

    Goan red rice, fried fish and a pickle.