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Category: Food

  • Kombdi Vade

    Kombdi vade is a celebratory meal from the Malvan coast of Maharashtra, made for festivals, family gatherings and Sunday lunch. Kombdi means chicken and vade are soft, puffed breads made from a flour of roasted rice, urad dal and spices, deep fried like puris. The combination is especially popular around Gauri-Ganpati and Shimga, the Konkan Holi.

    The chicken curry is rich and spicy, cooked in a gravy of roasted coconut, onion and Malvani masala, with plenty of oil and whole spices. The vade are crisp outside and soft inside, with a slightly grainy texture and a nutty flavour from the roasted flour, perfect for scooping up the gravy.

    The meal is completed with sliced onions, lemon and sol kadhi. Ready vade flour is sold in Konkan stores, but making it at home is simple if you have time to roast and mill the grains. In Malvan, the meal is served at small family-run restaurants, and visitors to the Konkan coast rarely leave without trying it.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMalvani
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time60 minutes
    Total time100 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientschicken / rice flour / urad dal / coconut

    Ingredients

    For the vade

    • 2 cups vade flour (or 1 1/2 cups rice flour + 1/4 cup urad dal flour + 2 tbsp wheat flour)
    • 1 tsp fennel seeds, crushed
    • 1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds, roasted and crushed
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 cup hot water
    • Oil for deep frying

    For the chicken curry

    • 750 g chicken on the bone, curry cut
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 cup freshly grated coconut
    • 2 onions, sliced
    • 6 garlic cloves
    • 2 tbsp Malvani masala
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • 1/4 cup oil
    • 2 cups hot water
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Marinate the chicken with ginger-garlic paste, turmeric and salt for 30 minutes.
    2. Roast the coconut in a dry pan on medium for 4-5 minutes until golden brown. In 1 tbsp oil, fry the sliced onions until dark brown. Grind both with garlic and a little water to a smooth paste.
    3. Heat the remaining oil in a pot on medium. Add the paste and fry for 6-8 minutes until oil separates.
    4. Add Malvani masala and garam masala and stir for 30 seconds. Add the chicken and fry on medium-high for 5 minutes until coated and lightly browned.
    5. Pour in hot water, bring to a boil, cover and simmer on low for 25 minutes until the chicken is tender and the gravy is medium-thick. Garnish with coriander.
    6. For the vade, mix the flour with fennel, fenugreek, turmeric and salt. Pour hot water over it, mix with a spoon, cover and rest for 15 minutes. Knead into a soft, smooth dough.
    7. Divide into lime-sized balls. Pat each on an oiled plastic sheet into a 4-inch disc about 1/4 inch thick, with a small hole in the centre.
    8. Heat oil to medium-hot and fry the vade one at a time, pressing gently so they puff, for 1-2 minutes per side until golden. Drain and serve hot with the curry.

    Tips

    • Vade dough should be soft; stiff dough gives hard, dense vade.
    • The hole in the centre helps the vade cook evenly and puff.
    • Make the curry first; vade are best fried just before serving.

    Serve with

    Sliced onion, lemon wedges and sol kadhi.

  • Goan Fish Curry

    Xitti kodi, rice and curry, is the everyday meal of Goa, and the fish curry at its heart is cooked in almost every Goan home. Fresh coconut is ground with Kashmiri chillies, coriander seeds, turmeric, garlic and tamarind into a smooth paste, then simmered with fish such as kingfish, pomfret or mackerel. The result is a vibrant orange curry.

    The taste is sour first from tamarind or kokum, followed by the gentle heat of Kashmiri chilli and the creamy sweetness of coconut. Some cooks add a little tirphal, a Sichuan-pepper-like spice, for a citrusy aroma, and others add slit green chillies and onion. The gravy is thin enough to soak into rice.

    Goans eat fish curry for lunch nearly every day, usually with red parboiled rice and a fried fish on the side. The curry tastes better reheated. Many Goan families keep a jar of ground masala ready to make the curry quickly on busy days. Mackerel, sardines and prawns are equally popular, depending on what the market offers that morning.

    At a glance

    RegionGoa
    CuisineGoan
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time40 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientskingfish / coconut / kashmiri chillies / tamarind

    Ingredients

    For the fish

    • 500 g kingfish (surmai), cut into steaks
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric

    For the masala

    • 1 1/2 cups freshly grated coconut
    • 8 dried Kashmiri chillies, soaked 15 minutes
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/2 tsp black peppercorns
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 5 garlic cloves
    • 1 inch ginger
    • 1 tbsp tamarind pulp

    For the curry

    • 2 tbsp coconut oil
    • 1 small onion, finely sliced
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tomato, chopped (optional)
    • 1 1/2 cups water
    • Salt to taste
    • 3-4 tirphal (optional)

    Method

    1. Rub the fish with salt and turmeric and set aside for 15 minutes.
    2. Grind the coconut, soaked chillies, coriander, cumin, peppercorns, turmeric, garlic, ginger and tamarind with about 3/4 cup water to a very smooth paste.
    3. Heat coconut oil in a wide pan on medium. Add the onion and green chillies and cook for 3-4 minutes until soft and translucent.
    4. Add the tomato if using and cook for 2 minutes. Add the ground masala and fry for 3-4 minutes until fragrant.
    5. Pour in the water, add salt and tirphal and bring to a gentle boil. Simmer for 5 minutes.
    6. Slide in the fish pieces and cook on low for 6-8 minutes without stirring, until the fish is just cooked through. Rest for 10 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Grind the masala very smooth; a grainy paste gives a coarse curry.
    • Kashmiri chillies give colour without too much heat; add one spicy Goan chilli if you want more bite.
    • Do not boil hard after adding coconut; it can split.

    Serve with

    Goan red rice, fried fish and a pickle.

  • Pork Vindaloo

    Vindaloo descends from the Portuguese carne de vinha d'alhos, meat marinated in wine and garlic, which Goan cooks adapted using local palm vinegar and plenty of red chillies. Over centuries it became the signature Goan Catholic dish, made for Christmas, weddings and feasts. It has little in common with the potato-filled, fiercely hot versions found in British curry houses.

    A true vindaloo is tangy, garlicky and spicy rather than simply hot. The pork, ideally shoulder with some fat, is marinated overnight in a paste of Kashmiri chillies, garlic, ginger, cumin, peppercorns, cloves, cinnamon and vinegar, then cooked slowly until meltingly tender. The gravy is deep red, rich and slightly sweet from the onions.

    Vindaloo keeps well and improves over several days, which made it popular for feasts and travel. It is eaten with sannas, pao or steamed rice. In Goan homes, a large pot of vindaloo is made before Christmas and eaten over several days. The vinegar acts as a preservative, and the flavours deepen with every reheat.

    At a glance

    RegionGoa
    CuisineGoan
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time90 minutes
    Total time120 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspork / kashmiri chillies / garlic / vinegar

    Ingredients

    For the vindaloo paste

    • 15 dried Kashmiri chillies
    • 4 dried spicy chillies
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 8 cloves
    • 2 inch cinnamon
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 15 garlic cloves
    • 2 inch ginger
    • 1/2 cup coconut or palm vinegar

    For the curry

    • 1 kg pork shoulder, cut into 1 1/2 inch pieces with some fat
    • 1 1/2 tsp salt
    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 3 onions, finely chopped
    • 1 tbsp sugar or grated jaggery
    • 1 cup hot water

    Method

    1. Soak the chillies in the vinegar for 1 hour. Grind them with the vinegar and all other paste ingredients to a fine paste.
    2. Mix the pork with the paste and salt. Cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hours, preferably overnight.
    3. Heat oil in a heavy pot on medium. Add onions and cook for 10-12 minutes until deep golden brown.
    4. Add the marinated pork with all its marinade. Fry on medium-high for 8-10 minutes, stirring, until the meat is sealed and the paste starts to darken.
    5. Add sugar and hot water, stir and bring to a boil.
    6. Cover and simmer on low for 60-75 minutes, stirring every 15 minutes, until the pork is very tender and the gravy is thick and deep red with fat on top.
    7. Taste and adjust salt, vinegar and sugar. Rest for at least an hour, or better, overnight, before serving.

    Tips

    • Use pork with some fat; lean meat dries out during the long cook.
    • Palm or coconut vinegar gives the authentic flavour; malt vinegar can be harsh.
    • Vindaloo tastes best on the second or third day.

    Serve with

    Goan pao, sannas or steamed rice.

  • Chicken Xacuti

    Xacuti, pronounced sha-coo-tee, is one of Goa's most complex curries, made by both Hindu and Catholic communities. Its name comes from the Portuguese chacuti, and the dish is famous for its gravy of grated coconut roasted until dark with a large number of whole spices, including poppy seeds, star anise, nutmeg, mace and cloves.

    The flavour is deep, nutty and aromatic, with a warm spiciness rather than sharp heat. The roasted coconut gives a dark brown colour and a slightly smoky richness, while the spices layer sweetness and fragrance. Chicken on the bone is most common, though mutton xacuti is equally popular. Prawn versions exist too.

    Xacuti is a feast dish, served at weddings and festivals and made at home on Sundays. It is eaten with pao, sannas or rice, and like most Goan curries it tastes better the next day. Leftover xacuti is often eaten with bread for breakfast the next morning. Mutton takes longer but is worth it.

    At a glance

    RegionGoa
    CuisineGoan
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time80 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / coconut / poppy seeds / star anise

    Ingredients

    For the marinade

    • 750 g chicken on the bone, curry cut
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp salt

    For the xacuti masala

    • 1 1/2 cups freshly grated coconut
    • 8 dried Kashmiri chillies
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp fennel seeds
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 1 tbsp poppy seeds
    • 6 cloves
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 2 star anise
    • 4 green cardamoms
    • 1/4 nutmeg, grated
    • 2 blades mace
    • 1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds

    For the curry

    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 2 onions, finely chopped
    • 1 tomato, chopped
    • 1 tbsp tamarind pulp
    • 2 cups hot water
    • Salt to taste
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Marinate the chicken with ginger-garlic paste, turmeric and salt for 30 minutes.
    2. Dry roast the whole spices and chillies on low heat for 3-4 minutes until fragrant and slightly darker. Remove.
    3. Roast the coconut in the same pan on medium-low for 8-10 minutes, stirring constantly, until evenly dark golden brown.
    4. Grind the roasted spices and coconut with about 1 cup water to a fine, smooth paste.
    5. Heat oil in a heavy pot on medium. Cook the onions for 8-10 minutes until golden brown. Add tomato and cook for 3 minutes until soft.
    6. Add the chicken and fry on medium-high for 5 minutes until lightly browned.
    7. Add the ground masala and fry for 5 minutes, stirring often, until it darkens and the oil separates.
    8. Pour in hot water, add tamarind and salt, and simmer covered on low for 25 minutes until the chicken is tender and the gravy is thick. Garnish with coriander.

    Tips

    • Roast the coconut slowly and evenly; it gives xacuti its colour and depth.
    • Poppy seeds should be roasted lightly; they burn very fast.
    • If the gravy is too thick, add hot water to adjust.

    Serve with

    Goan pao, sannas or steamed rice.

  • Bebinca

    Bebinca is the most celebrated Goan dessert, made for Christmas, Easter, weddings and other feasts. Legend says it was created by a nun in Old Goa who wanted to make a dessert with seven layers, representing the seven hills of Lisbon and Old Goa. Traditional bebinca has many more, often sixteen layers, built up one at a time.

    Each layer is a thin pour of a batter of coconut milk, egg yolks, sugar and a little flour, flavoured with nutmeg and cardamom. It is cooked under a top heat until golden, then brushed with ghee before the next layer is added. The result is a dense, rich, caramelised cake with distinct brown and pale stripes.

    Bebinca is served in thin slices, sometimes warm with vanilla ice cream. It keeps well for a week, making it a good dessert to prepare ahead for a feast. Goan households often take pride in their own bebinca, and many families still bake it in a clay oven with coconut husk embers on top, as their grandmothers did.

    At a glance

    RegionGoa
    CuisineGoan
    DietEggetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time120 minutes
    Total time150 minutes
    Serves10
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientscoconut milk / egg yolks / sugar / ghee

    Ingredients

    • 10 egg yolks
    • 2 cups (400 ml) thick coconut milk
    • 1 1/4 cups (250 g) sugar
    • 1 cup (125 g) maida
    • 1/2 tsp grated nutmeg
    • 1/2 tsp cardamom powder
    • A pinch of salt
    • 1/2 cup (100 g) ghee, melted, plus more for greasing

    Method

    1. Stir the sugar into the coconut milk until it dissolves completely, warming gently if needed. Cool.
    2. Whisk the egg yolks until smooth and pale. Add the coconut milk gradually, whisking.
    3. Sift in the maida with nutmeg, cardamom and salt, whisking until there are no lumps. Strain the batter.
    4. Preheat the oven grill to high (around 220 C) with the rack in the upper third. Grease a 7-inch round tin with ghee.
    5. Pour 1 tbsp melted ghee into the tin and heat under the grill for 2 minutes. Pour in about 1/2 cup batter to form a thin layer. Grill for 8-10 minutes until the top is set and golden brown.
    6. Remove, brush with 1 tsp ghee, pour in another 1/2 cup batter and grill again until golden. Repeat until all the batter is used, about 12-14 layers.
    7. After the final layer, bake for 5 more minutes. Cool completely in the tin, then invert onto a plate and slice thinly.

    Tips

    • Patience is key; each layer must be golden before adding the next.
    • Use thick, fresh coconut milk for the richest flavour.
    • Rotate the tin halfway through each layer for even browning.

    Serve with

    Thin slices on their own or warm with vanilla ice cream.

  • Prawn Balchao

    Balchao is a Goan preparation of prawns or fish in a fiery, sweet-sour paste of red chillies, garlic, spices and vinegar. It is thought to have come to Goa from Macau, where balichao was a fermented shrimp sauce, and Goan cooks transformed it into a pickle-like curry. Prawn balchao is made by Catholic families for Christmas and festive meals.

    The flavour is intense: tangy from vinegar, hot from red chillies, sweet from sugar or jaggery and deeply savoury from the prawns. The gravy is thick and clings to the prawns. Because of the vinegar, balchao keeps for weeks in the refrigerator, and many families make it in large batches to last through the monsoon.

    A small spoon of balchao is served with rice and dal or eaten with pao. It also makes a good accompaniment to drinks. It is a popular gift for Goans living abroad. Fish and dried prawn versions are made the same way, and some families prepare balchao with pork too.

    At a glance

    RegionGoa
    CuisineGoan
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time60 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsprawns / red chillies / vinegar / garlic

    Ingredients

    For the prawns

    • 500 g small prawns, cleaned and deveined
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric

    For the balchao paste

    • 15 dried Kashmiri chillies
    • 5 dried spicy chillies
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 6 cloves
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 15 garlic cloves
    • 2 inch ginger
    • 1/2 cup coconut or palm vinegar

    For cooking

    • 1/2 cup oil
    • 2 onions, finely chopped
    • 2 tomatoes, finely chopped
    • 2 tbsp sugar or jaggery
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Rub the prawns with salt and turmeric and set aside for 15 minutes. Pat dry.
    2. Soak the chillies in the vinegar for 30 minutes and grind with the remaining paste ingredients to a smooth paste.
    3. Heat 2 tbsp oil and fry the prawns on high for 2-3 minutes until pink. Remove.
    4. Heat the remaining oil on medium and cook the onions for 10-12 minutes until deep golden. Add tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes until they break down.
    5. Add the balchao paste and fry for 8-10 minutes, stirring often, until it darkens and oil separates.
    6. Add sugar and salt, then the prawns. Cook on low for 5-6 minutes until the prawns are coated and the gravy is thick.
    7. Cool completely and store in a clean glass jar in the refrigerator. Rest for at least a day before eating.

    Tips

    • Fry the prawns lightly first to remove moisture; this helps the balchao keep longer.
    • Use a clean, dry spoon when serving to prevent spoilage.
    • Increase the oil if you want to store it for longer.

    Serve with

    Steamed rice and dal, or Goan pao.

  • Sorpotel

    Sorpotel is a rich, spicy Goan pork dish made for Christmas, weddings and feasts. It came from Portuguese sarapatel, a stew of offal, and Goan cooks made it their own with local chillies, spices and toddy vinegar. Traditional sorpotel uses pork meat, fat and liver, and sometimes heart and blood, boiled, diced small and cooked in a vinegar masala.

    The flavour is deeply savoury, tangy and spicy, with a rich, slightly gamey depth from the liver. The gravy is thick, dark red and coats every small piece of meat. Like vindaloo, sorpotel is cooked ahead, and families reheat it daily for several days, which concentrates the flavour. The texture is soft and rich.

    It is served with sannas, the soft steamed rice cakes of Goa, or with pao. A plate of sorpotel and sannas is the centrepiece of many Goan Christmas lunches. Many Goans believe sorpotel is best on the third day, and families plan their festive cooking around that. It also freezes well for later meals.

    At a glance

    RegionGoa
    CuisineGoan
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time90 minutes
    Total time130 minutes
    Serves8
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspork / pork liver / kashmiri chillies / vinegar

    Ingredients

    For boiling

    • 1 kg pork with fat (shoulder or belly)
    • 250 g pork liver
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • Water to cover

    For the masala

    • 20 dried Kashmiri chillies
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 8 cloves
    • 2 inch cinnamon
    • 1 tsp turmeric
    • 20 garlic cloves
    • 2 inch ginger
    • 3/4 cup coconut or palm vinegar

    For cooking

    • 3 tbsp oil or pork fat
    • 3 onions, finely chopped
    • 4 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tbsp sugar
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Put the pork and liver in a pot with salt, turmeric and water to cover. Bring to a boil and simmer for 20-25 minutes until just cooked.
    2. Remove the meat, cool and dice into very small, 1/2 inch cubes. Keep the stock.
    3. Soak the chillies in the vinegar for 30 minutes and grind with the other masala ingredients to a smooth paste.
    4. Heat oil in a heavy pot on medium. Fry the diced pork fat pieces first for 5 minutes to render fat, then add the onions and green chillies and cook for 10 minutes until golden.
    5. Add the masala paste and fry for 8-10 minutes until it darkens and oil separates.
    6. Add the diced meat and liver and fry for 5 minutes. Pour in 2 cups of the reserved stock and add sugar and salt.
    7. Simmer on low for 30-40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the gravy is thick and the meat is tender. Cool and refrigerate.
    8. Reheat once a day for 2-3 days before serving, adding a splash of vinegar or stock if it gets too thick.

    Tips

    • Dice the meat very small; this is characteristic of sorpotel.
    • Reheating daily is traditional and essential for the best flavour.
    • Keep the stock; it adds depth to the gravy.

    Serve with

    Sannas or Goan pao.

  • Kothimbir Vadi

    Kothimbir vadi is a Maharashtrian snack made with a generous amount of fresh coriander, bound with gram flour and spices into a thick dough, steamed into a log, cut into squares and fried. It is made especially in winter, when big bunches of coriander are cheap in the markets. Puneri households often serve it as part of a festive meal or with tea on a rainy afternoon.

    The finished vadi is crisp and golden on the outside and soft, herby and slightly crumbly inside, with crunch from sesame seeds and a hint of sweetness from sugar. It is fragrant with coriander, cumin and green chilli, and the steaming step keeps it from absorbing too much oil. Each piece is crisp and fresh.

    Steamed logs can be refrigerated for two days and fried as needed. Some families skip frying altogether and simply temper the steamed pieces with mustard seeds and sesame for a lighter version. It is also a good way to use up an oversized bunch of coriander before it wilts, and the steamed log freezes well for up to a month.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMaharashtrian
    DietVegan
    CourseSnack
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientscoriander / besan / sesame seeds / green chilli

    Ingredients

    • 2 packed cups finely chopped coriander (leaves and tender stems)
    • 1 cup (100 g) besan
    • 2 tbsp rice flour
    • 1 tbsp ginger-green chilli-garlic paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander-cumin powder
    • 1 tbsp white sesame seeds
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 2 tbsp hot oil
    • About 1/4 cup water
    • Oil for shallow frying

    Method

    1. Wash the coriander, drain and pat completely dry before chopping fine.
    2. Mix the coriander with besan, rice flour, the paste, spices, sesame, sugar, salt and lemon juice. Pour the hot oil over and mix.
    3. Add water a little at a time to make a thick, firm dough that holds together. Do not make it sticky.
    4. Shape into two logs about 2 inches thick, or press into a greased tin about 1 inch deep.
    5. Steam in a steamer on medium-high for 15-20 minutes until a knife inserted comes out clean.
    6. Cool the logs completely, at least 30 minutes, then cut into 1/2 inch thick slices.
    7. Heat oil 1/4 inch deep in a pan on medium. Shallow fry the slices for 2-3 minutes on each side until crisp and golden brown. Drain on paper.

    Tips

    • Cool the steamed logs fully before slicing or they will crumble.
    • Wet coriander makes the dough soggy; dry the leaves well.
    • For extra crunch, dip slices in a mix of rice flour and sesame before frying.

    Serve with

    Green chutney or tomato ketchup with masala chai.

  • Saoji Chicken

    Saoji cuisine comes from Nagpur and Vidarbha, developed by the Saoji community of weavers, who are known for intensely spicy mutton and chicken curries. Saoji bhojnalayas line the streets of Nagpur, and their curries are famous for a deep black-brown colour, a thick layer of red oil and heat that builds with every mouthful.

    The flavour comes from Saoji masala, a mix of whole spices such as dagad phool, nagkesar, maratha moggu, star anise and black cardamom, roasted dark with dry coconut, onion and plenty of dried red chilli. The gravy is thin and oily rather than thick, meant to be soaked up with roti or bhakri, and the chicken is tender and coated in spice.

    It is eaten with chapati, jowar roti, rice and raw onion, often with a glass of buttermilk to cope with the heat. In Nagpur, a Saoji meal is a weekend ritual. Mutton Saoji is just as famous, and many families cook it on Sundays. The dish is unapologetically hot, so serve it with plenty of cooling sides.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineVidarbha
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time45 minutes
    Total time75 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / dry coconut / red chillies / saoji masala

    Ingredients

    For the Saoji masala

    • 8-10 dried red chillies (spicy variety)
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 1 tsp fennel seeds
    • 1 tsp poppy seeds
    • 4 cloves
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 1 black cardamom
    • 1 star anise
    • 1 dagad phool
    • 2 nagkesar (dried cassia buds)
    • 1 maratha moggu
    • 1/2 cup dry coconut, grated

    For the curry

    • 750 g chicken on the bone, curry cut
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp salt plus more to taste
    • 1/2 cup oil
    • 2 large onions, finely sliced
    • 1 1/2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1 tbsp red chilli powder
    • 3 cups hot water
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Rub the chicken with turmeric and 1 tsp salt and set aside.
    2. Dry roast the whole spices and chillies on low heat for 3-4 minutes, stirring, until they darken and smell intensely aromatic. Remove and roast the coconut for 4-5 minutes until dark brown.
    3. Heat 2 tbsp oil and fry the sliced onions on medium for 10-12 minutes until very dark brown, almost black at the edges. Grind them with the roasted spices and coconut and a little water to a smooth, dark paste.
    4. Heat the remaining oil in a heavy pot on medium until hot. Add ginger-garlic paste and fry for 1 minute.
    5. Add the ground paste and fry for 8-10 minutes, stirring often, until it turns very dark and oil floats out clearly.
    6. Add red chilli powder and the chicken. Fry on medium-high for 6-8 minutes until the chicken is browned and coated.
    7. Pour in the hot water, add salt to taste and bring to a boil. Simmer covered on low for 20-25 minutes until the chicken is tender and a thick layer of red oil floats on top. Garnish with coriander.

    Tips

    • Saoji curry is meant to be oily; the oil carries the spice and is scooped up with roti.
    • Roast the masala to a deep colour but stop before it smells burnt.
    • Ready Saoji masala from Nagpur shops is a good shortcut.

    Serve with

    Chapati or jowar roti, steamed rice, raw onion and buttermilk.

  • Tarri Poha

    Tarri poha is Nagpur's own breakfast, sold from carts outside railway stations, colleges and offices from dawn. Plain, lightly spiced poha is topped with tarri, a thin, fiery gravy of black chana floating with red oil. The combination of soft, mild poha and spicy chana curry is unique to Vidarbha.

    The poha is cooked simply with onions, turmeric and mustard seeds and kept soft and slightly sweet. The tarri is sharp, garlicky and spicy, with a thick red oil layer from slow-cooked onion and dry coconut masala. Raw onion, fine sev, coriander and a squeeze of lemon on top add crunch and freshness.

    It is eaten for breakfast or as an evening snack, with a cup of hot tea. At home, the chana tarri can be made the night before and reheated in the morning. Stalls near Nagpur railway station and Sitabuldi are known for it, and a plate costs very little, making it a filling and cheap start to the day.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineVidarbha
    DietVegan
    CourseStreet food
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time40 minutes
    Total time60 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspoha / black chana / onion / dry coconut

    Ingredients

    For the chana tarri

    • 1 cup black chana, soaked overnight
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/2 cup oil
    • 2 onions, sliced
    • 1/4 cup dry coconut, grated
    • 8 garlic cloves
    • 1 inch ginger
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 4 cups hot water

    For the poha

    • 3 cups thick poha
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 8 curry leaves
    • 2 green chillies, chopped
    • 1 onion, chopped
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 3/4 tsp salt

    To serve

    • 1 onion, finely chopped
    • 1 cup fine sev
    • 1/4 cup chopped coriander
    • Lemon wedges

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the soaked chana with salt and 3 cups water for 5-6 whistles until soft.
    2. Heat 1 tbsp oil and fry the sliced onions until dark brown, about 10 minutes. Add coconut, garlic, ginger, cumin and coriander seeds and roast for 3 minutes. Grind to a paste with a little water.
    3. Heat the remaining oil in a pot on medium. Add the paste and fry for 6-8 minutes until oil separates.
    4. Add turmeric, red chilli powder and garam masala and stir for 30 seconds. Add the chana with its water and 4 cups hot water.
    5. Bring to a boil and simmer for 15 minutes until a thick layer of red oil collects on top. The gravy should be thin and soupy.
    6. For the poha, rinse in a colander, drain and toss with sugar and salt. Heat oil, crackle mustard seeds, add curry leaves, chillies and onion and cook until soft. Add turmeric and the poha, toss, cover and cook on low for 2 minutes.
    7. To serve, place poha in a bowl, pour tarri generously over it with some chana, and top with raw onion, sev, coriander and a lemon wedge.

    Tips

    • The tarri should be thin and oily, not thick like chole.
    • Skim the red oil from the top and drizzle it over the poha for the classic look.
    • Add sev only when serving so it stays crunchy.

    Serve with

    Hot tea and an extra lemon wedge.