RAG Demo

Category: Food

  • Bombil Fry

    Bombil, known in English as Bombay duck, is a soft, translucent fish found in the Arabian Sea off Mumbai and the Konkan coast. Koli fishing communities in Mumbai have long dried it on bamboo racks along the shore, but fresh bombil fry is the dish most associated with Mumbai's coastal restaurants and home kitchens.

    Fresh bombil is very delicate, with a high water content, so it is split, pressed and drained before cooking. Coated in a spice marinade and a crisp layer of semolina and rice flour, it fries up with a crunchy exterior and a soft, almost melting interior. The flavour is mild and sweet, with heat from red chilli and tang from lemon.

    It is served hot as a starter or alongside dal, rice and sol kadhi in a Malvani or Koli meal. Bombil is at its best during the cooler months; it is not caught during the monsoon ban on fishing. Dried bombil is also popular, cooked into spicy curries or fried crisp.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMaharashtrian
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time15 minutes
    Total time45 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientsbombil / semolina / rice flour / red chilli

    Ingredients

    For the fish

    • 8 fresh bombil (about 400 g)
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice

    For the marinade

    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1 1/2 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp hot red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1 tsp lemon juice

    For the coating

    • 1/2 cup fine rava (semolina)
    • 2 tbsp rice flour
    • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • A pinch of salt
    • Oil for shallow frying

    Method

    1. Clean the bombil: cut off the head and fins, slit along the belly and open it flat like a book. Remove the central bone if you like.
    2. Rub with salt and lemon juice and place between kitchen towels or in a colander with a weight on top for 20 minutes to drain excess water.
    3. Press each fish firmly with your palm to flatten it further. Mix the marinade ingredients and coat the fish evenly. Rest for 10 minutes.
    4. Mix the rava, rice flour, chilli powder and salt on a plate.
    5. Heat oil about 1/4 inch deep in a pan on medium-high. Press each fish into the coating on both sides.
    6. Fry 3-4 pieces at a time for 3-4 minutes per side, until golden brown and crisp. Press gently with a spatula to help it flatten.
    7. Drain on paper and serve immediately with lemon wedges.

    Tips

    • Draining water from the bombil is essential; otherwise the coating gets soggy and the oil splatters.
    • Fry immediately after coating so the rava stays crisp.
    • Use a non-stick pan as bombil is fragile.

    Serve with

    Lemon wedges, onion rings, sol kadhi and steamed rice.

  • Malvani Fish Curry

    Malvani cuisine comes from the Sindhudurg coast of southern Maharashtra, where fish curry and rice are eaten almost every day. The curry gets its flavour from Malvani masala, a powder of more than a dozen dried spices and red chillies, and from fresh coconut ground with a little roasted onion. Kokum provides sourness instead of tamarind.

    The gravy is orange-red, medium-thick and coconut-rich, with a sharp tang from kokum and a deep spicy warmth from the masala. Firm fish such as surmai (kingfish), pomfret or bangda (mackerel) holds its shape and absorbs the flavours. Unlike Goan curries, it is not sour-sweet; the balance leans to heat and tang.

    It is eaten with steamed rice or tandlachi bhakri, a soft rice-flour flatbread, with a glass of sol kadhi to finish. The curry tastes better a few hours after cooking, once the fish has soaked up the gravy. Mackerel and prawns are common, inexpensive alternatives to surmai in everyday cooking.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMalvani
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientssurmai / coconut / kokum / malvani masala

    Ingredients

    For the fish

    • 500 g surmai or pomfret, cut into thick steaks
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice

    For the masala paste

    • 1 tbsp oil
    • 1 small onion, sliced
    • 1 1/2 cups freshly grated coconut
    • 6 garlic cloves
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1/2 tsp black peppercorns
    • 2 tbsp Malvani masala
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric

    For the curry

    • 2 tbsp coconut oil
    • 1 small onion, finely chopped
    • 4-5 kokum petals soaked in 1/4 cup water
    • 1 1/2 cups water
    • Salt to taste
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Marinate the fish in turmeric, salt and lemon juice for 15 minutes.
    2. Heat 1 tbsp oil and fry the sliced onion on medium for 5-6 minutes until brown. Add coconut and roast for 3-4 minutes until light golden. Add garlic, coriander seeds and peppercorns and roast 1 minute more.
    3. Cool, then grind with Malvani masala, chilli powder, turmeric and about 1/2 cup water to a smooth paste.
    4. Heat coconut oil in a wide pan on medium. Cook the chopped onion for 3-4 minutes until soft.
    5. Add the ground paste and fry for 4-5 minutes until oil starts separating. Add 1 1/2 cups water and salt and bring to a boil.
    6. Simmer for 5 minutes, then slide in the fish pieces in a single layer. Cook on low for 6-8 minutes without stirring, gently shaking the pan, until the fish is opaque and flakes at the thickest part.
    7. Add the kokum with its soaking water and simmer for 2 minutes. Turn off the heat, garnish with coriander and rest for 10 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Add kokum at the end; boiling it for long can make the curry bitter.
    • Do not stir after adding fish; shake the pan to avoid breaking the pieces.
    • If Malvani masala is unavailable, use a mix of 1 tbsp Kashmiri chilli, 1 tsp garam masala and 1/2 tsp roasted coriander powder.

    Serve with

    Steamed rice or tandlachi bhakri, with sol kadhi.

  • Sabudana Vada

    Sabudana vada is a fasting-day favourite from Maharashtra, made for Navratri, Ekadashi and Mahashivratri, though most people eat it far more often than that. Soaked tapioca pearls are mixed with boiled potato and coarsely crushed roasted peanuts, seasoned with green chilli and cumin, and fried into flat, round patties. Every bite is crunchy.

    A good sabudana vada is crunchy outside and soft, chewy and slightly springy within, with the peanuts giving a nutty crunch. The pearls turn translucent and form little crisp bubbles on the surface while frying. Because the ingredients are fasting-friendly, the vada uses rock salt and avoids onion and garlic.

    It is served hot with a sweet curd dip or a green chutney made without onion. Pune eateries sell it all day with a cup of tea, and it is one of the dishes that make people look forward to fasts. Leftover sabudana khichdi can also be mashed and shaped into vadas.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMaharashtrian
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time40 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientssabudana / potato / peanuts / green chilli

    Ingredients

    • 1 cup (160 g) sabudana, soaked 5-6 hours
    • 2 medium potatoes, boiled and mashed
    • 1/2 cup roasted peanuts, coarsely crushed
    • 2 green chillies, finely chopped
    • 1 tsp grated ginger
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 1 tsp lemon juice
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1 tsp sendha namak (rock salt)
    • Oil for deep frying
    • 1 cup curd whisked with 1 tsp sugar, to serve

    Method

    1. Soak the sabudana as for khichdi: rinse, then cover with water just to the level of the pearls and leave for 5-6 hours. Drain completely and check that the pearls squash easily.
    2. In a bowl, combine the sabudana, mashed potato, peanuts, chillies, ginger, cumin, coriander, lemon juice, sugar and salt.
    3. Mix well with your hands until the mixture holds together. If it is too soft, add a little more crushed peanut.
    4. Divide into 12 portions. Wet your palms and shape each into a ball, then flatten into a patty about 1/2 inch thick.
    5. Heat oil to medium-hot, about 170 C. Test with a small piece; it should rise steadily without browning instantly.
    6. Fry 4 vadas at a time for 4-5 minutes, turning, until crisp and golden brown all over. Drain on paper.
    7. Serve hot with the sweetened curd.

    Tips

    • Too much moisture in the sabudana causes the vadas to burst. Drain well and let it dry.
    • Fry in medium-hot oil; very hot oil makes them dark outside and raw inside.
    • For a lower-oil version, cook them in an appe pan with a little oil.

    Serve with

    Sweet curd or a green chutney with peanuts.

  • Maharashtrian Amti

    Amti is the everyday dal of Maharashtra, distinguished from plain varan by its sweet, sour and spicy balance. Toor dal is cooked soft, then simmered with goda masala, tamarind or kokum and a little jaggery. It is the dal that fills Maharashtrian thalis, eaten with rice, chapati or bhakri. It is a daily essential.

    The flavour is tangy and gently sweet, with warmth from goda masala and red chilli, and aroma from a tempering of mustard seeds, cumin, curry leaves and asafoetida. Grated coconut and coriander are often added at the end. The consistency is thinner than North Indian dals, perfect for mixing into rice.

    Variations are endless: katachi amti uses the drained water from puran poli dal, while Kolhapuri versions add more chilli. Each household has its own preferred proportions of sweet and sour. Konkani homes add coconut and kokum, while Desh homes rely on goda masala and tamarind, and every cook believes theirs is the correct one.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMaharashtrian
    DietVegan
    CourseMain course
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time35 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientstoor dal / tamarind / jaggery / goda masala

    Ingredients

    For the dal

    • 3/4 cup toor dal, washed
    • 2 1/2 cups water
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric

    For the amti

    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 10 curry leaves
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 1/2 tsp goda masala
    • 1 tbsp tamarind pulp
    • 1 1/2 tbsp grated jaggery
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 cup water
    • 2 tbsp grated fresh coconut
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the toor dal with water and turmeric for 3-4 whistles until completely soft. Whisk until smooth.
    2. Heat oil in a pan on medium. Crackle mustard seeds, add cumin, asafoetida, curry leaves and green chillies and cook for 20 seconds.
    3. Add red chilli powder and goda masala and stir for 10 seconds without burning.
    4. Pour in the whisked dal and the water. Add tamarind pulp, jaggery and salt.
    5. Bring to a boil and simmer for 8-10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the flavours meld and it reaches a pourable consistency.
    6. Add coconut and coriander and simmer for 1 minute more. Taste and adjust sweet-sour balance.

    Tips

    • Goda masala is essential; garam masala gives a different, more North Indian flavour.
    • Kokum can replace tamarind; add 3-4 petals and remove before serving.
    • The amti thickens on standing; thin with hot water when reheating.

    Serve with

    Steamed rice with ghee, papad and a dry vegetable.

  • Thalipeeth

    Thalipeeth is a rustic, savoury multigrain pancake from Maharashtra, made from bhajani, a flour of roasted grains and lentils such as jowar, bajra, rice, wheat, chana dal, urad dal and coriander seeds. Families roast and mill a batch of bhajani every few months, so thalipeeth can be made at short notice for breakfast or a light dinner.

    The dough is mixed with chopped onion, coriander, chilli and spices, then patted thin directly onto the tawa or onto a wet cloth, with a few holes poked in it so oil can seep through. It cooks slowly under a lid until the base is crisp and dark golden and the top is cooked through. The flavour is nutty and earthy, with a toasty aroma from the roasted grains.

    It is eaten hot with a dollop of white butter or ghee, fresh curd and a spicy thecha or lime pickle. During fasts a version is made with sabudana and rajgira flour instead. Leftover vegetables or grated cucumber can also be added to the dough, and many homes make thalipeeth with whatever is in the fridge.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMaharashtrian
    DietVegetarian
    CourseBreakfast
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time40 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientsbhajani flour / onion / jowar / coriander

    Ingredients

    • 2 cups (240 g) thalipeeth bhajani flour
    • 1 large onion, finely chopped
    • 1/2 cup chopped coriander
    • 2 green chillies, finely chopped
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tbsp white sesame seeds
    • 1/4 tsp ajwain
    • 1 tsp salt
    • About 3/4 cup water
    • Oil for cooking
    • White butter or ghee to serve

    Method

    1. Combine the bhajani, onion, coriander, chillies, spices, sesame, ajwain and salt in a bowl and mix well. The onion will release some moisture.
    2. Add water gradually and knead into a soft, slightly sticky dough. Divide into 6 portions.
    3. Grease a cold, heavy tawa or wet a clean cotton cloth or a sheet of plastic. Place a portion of dough on it and pat with wet fingers into a round about 6 inches across and 1/4 inch thick.
    4. Make 4-5 holes in the thalipeeth with your finger, one in the centre and the rest around it.
    5. If patted on cloth, flip it onto a hot tawa and peel the cloth away. Place the tawa on medium heat and drizzle 1/2 tsp oil into each hole and around the edges.
    6. Cover and cook on medium-low for 4-5 minutes until the underside is crisp and dark golden.
    7. Flip, drizzle a little more oil and cook uncovered for 2-3 minutes until spotted brown. If patting directly on the tawa, let it cool slightly with a splash of water before making the next one.

    Tips

    • Patting on a cool tawa is easier; heat it after shaping. Cool the tawa with water between batches.
    • No bhajani? Mix equal parts jowar, bajra and besan with a little rice flour and roasted coriander-cumin powder.
    • Bhajani contains wheat; leave it out of your mix for a gluten-free version.

    Serve with

    White butter, thick curd and shengdana or green chilli thecha.

  • Zunka Bhakri

    Zunka bhakri is the food of Maharashtra's farmers and labourers, and the pairing is so deeply associated with rural life that the state government once ran a subsidised zunka bhakar kendra scheme. Zunka, also called pithla when made wetter, is gram flour cooked with onion, garlic and chilli until dry and crumbly. Bhakri is an unleavened flatbread of jowar or bajra patted by hand.

    The zunka is savoury, garlicky and pleasantly coarse, with toasted bits stuck to the pan that everyone fights over. The bhakri is thick, slightly smoky and wholesome, with a puffed, papery top layer. Together with raw onion, a green chilli and a dab of thecha, it makes a complete, sustaining meal.

    Zunka takes about fifteen minutes and needs only pantry staples, so it is a common quick lunch. Making bhakri by hand takes practice, since jowar has no gluten and cracks easily, but a few attempts are usually enough. Pithla bhakri is also a popular trekking meal at forts around Pune, sold by villagers at the top.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMaharashtrian
    DietVegan
    CourseMain course
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbesan / onion / jowar flour / garlic

    Ingredients

    For the zunka

    • 1 cup (100 g) besan
    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 8 curry leaves
    • 8 garlic cloves, crushed
    • 3 green chillies, chopped
    • 2 medium onions, finely chopped
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 3/4 tsp salt
    • About 1/2 cup water
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    For the jowar bhakri

    • 2 cups (240 g) jowar flour
    • 1/4 tsp salt
    • About 1 cup hot water
    • Extra jowar flour for patting

    Method

    1. For the bhakri, mix jowar flour and salt, add hot water and mix with a spoon. When cool enough to touch, knead hard with the heel of your palm for 4-5 minutes into a smooth, crack-free dough. Knead each portion again just before shaping.
    2. Take an orange-sized ball, place it on a floured board and pat with your palm, rotating it, into a 7-inch round. Lift onto a hot tawa on medium-high, top side down.
    3. Brush the upper surface with water. When the water dries, after about 1 minute, flip. Cook for 1 minute more, then hold it directly over a flame or press with a cloth so it puffs. Keep warm in a cloth.
    4. For the zunka, heat oil in a kadhai on medium. Crackle mustard seeds, add cumin, asafoetida, curry leaves, garlic and chillies and cook for 1 minute until the garlic turns golden.
    5. Add onions and cook for 4-5 minutes until soft and lightly coloured. Add turmeric, chilli powder and salt.
    6. Lower the heat and sprinkle in the besan, stirring constantly. Roast for 3-4 minutes until it smells nutty and coats the onions.
    7. Sprinkle water a little at a time, stirring and breaking up lumps, until the besan is moist and crumbly. Cover and cook on low for 5-6 minutes, stirring twice, until it is cooked and slightly crisp at the bottom. Garnish with coriander.

    Tips

    • Fresh jowar flour binds better; old flour cracks while patting.
    • Let the zunka catch slightly at the bottom; those crisp bits are the best part.
    • For pithla, use more water so it cooks into a soft, spoonable consistency.

    Serve with

    Raw onion, green chilli thecha and a glass of buttermilk.

  • Kolhapuri Chicken

    Kolhapur, in southern Maharashtra, is famous for its love of heat, and its chicken curry is one of the boldest in the country. The flavour comes from Kolhapuri masala, a blend of local red chillies called lavangi and sankeshwari with a long list of whole spices, and from a paste of dry coconut and onion roasted until nearly black.

    The gravy is dark reddish-brown, thick and oily, with layers of smoky coconut, sesame, poppy seeds and spices beneath the chilli. It is hot but not just hot: the roasting gives a deep, almost bitter-sweet richness. Chicken on the bone is preferred, since it adds body to the gravy. Expect it to be fiery.

    In Kolhapur it is served with bhakri or chapati, rice and a bowl of the thin tambda and pandhra rassa. The recipe can be made less fiery by using more Kashmiri chilli, but true Kolhapuri food is meant to make your eyes water. A cold glass of buttermilk on the side helps, and so does a squeeze of lemon.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMaharashtrian
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time45 minutes
    Total time75 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / dry coconut / onion / kolhapuri masala

    Ingredients

    For the marinade

    • 750 g chicken, curry cut on the bone
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp curd

    For the roasted masala

    • 1 tbsp oil
    • 2 large onions, sliced
    • 1/2 cup dry coconut, grated
    • 1 tbsp white sesame seeds
    • 1 tsp poppy seeds
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 4 cloves
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 1 black cardamom
    • 2 bay leaves
    • 1 dagad phool (stone flower)
    • 6 dried red chillies (mix of Kashmiri and spicy)
    • 8 garlic cloves
    • 1 inch ginger

    For the curry

    • 4 tbsp oil
    • 1 onion, finely chopped
    • 1 tomato, chopped
    • 2 tsp Kolhapuri masala or 1 1/2 tsp hot red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 cups hot water
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Marinate the chicken with ginger-garlic paste, turmeric, salt and curd for at least 30 minutes.
    2. In a dry pan on low heat, roast the coriander, cumin, peppercorns, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, bay leaves, stone flower and red chillies for 2 minutes until fragrant. Remove, then roast sesame and poppy seeds for 1 minute.
    3. Heat 1 tbsp oil, add sliced onions and fry on medium for 8-10 minutes until deep brown. Add the coconut and roast for 4-5 minutes, stirring constantly, until dark brown but not burnt. Add garlic and ginger for 1 minute.
    4. Cool everything and grind together with about 1/2 cup water to a smooth, thick paste.
    5. Heat 4 tbsp oil in a heavy pot on medium. Add the chopped onion and cook for 5 minutes until golden. Add the tomato and cook for 3-4 minutes until soft.
    6. Add the ground masala and fry for 6-8 minutes, stirring often, until it darkens and oil separates at the edges. Add Kolhapuri masala and stir for 30 seconds.
    7. Add the chicken and sear in the masala on medium-high for 5 minutes until the pieces are coated and firm.
    8. Pour in hot water and salt, bring to a boil, cover and simmer on low for 20-25 minutes until the chicken is tender and the gravy is thick with a layer of red oil on top. Garnish with coriander.

    Tips

    • Roast the coconut patiently on medium-low; it should be evenly dark brown. Burnt coconut makes the curry bitter.
    • Stone flower (dagad phool) gives the authentic Kolhapuri aroma; find it at spice shops or online.
    • Rest the curry for 30 minutes before serving; the flavours deepen considerably.

    Serve with

    Jowar bhakri or chapati, steamed rice, sliced onion and lemon.

  • Kolhapuri Tambda Rassa

    Tambda rassa, meaning red gravy, is one half of Kolhapur's famous mutton thali. It is a thin, intensely spiced broth made from the stock of mutton bones and pieces, coloured deep red with local chillies, and served in a bowl beside a white counterpart, pandhra rassa, which is mild and milky with coconut. Diners drink the two alternately, cooling the fire of one with the other.

    The rassa should be thin enough to sip, with a glossy red oil layer floating on top. Roasted dry coconut and onion give it body and a smoky depth, while whole spices and Kolhapuri masala provide the heat. The mutton pieces simmered in it become tender and are eaten with bhakri.

    Every mutton khanaval in Kolhapur serves tambda rassa with refills, and locals judge a place by it. At home it is a Sunday dish, often made in the same session as pandhra rassa from a single pot of mutton stock. Rassa is drunk from a small bowl like soup, and refills are expected.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMaharashtrian
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseSoup
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time75 minutes
    Total time105 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / dry coconut / onion / kolhapuri masala

    Ingredients

    For the mutton stock

    • 500 g mutton on the bone (shoulder and ribs), cut small
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 5 cups water

    For the masala

    • 1 tbsp oil
    • 2 onions, sliced
    • 1/2 cup dry coconut, grated
    • 8 garlic cloves
    • 1 inch ginger
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 4 cloves
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 1/2 tsp black peppercorns
    • 1 tsp white sesame seeds

    For the rassa

    • 5 tbsp oil
    • 2 bay leaves
    • 1 small onion, finely chopped
    • 1 tbsp Kolhapuri masala
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • Salt to taste
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Rub the mutton with ginger-garlic paste, turmeric and salt. Pressure cook with 5 cups water for 6-7 whistles on medium until tender. Strain, keeping the stock and the pieces separately.
    2. Dry roast the coriander, cumin, cloves, cinnamon, peppercorns and sesame on low for 1-2 minutes until fragrant.
    3. Heat 1 tbsp oil and fry the sliced onions on medium for 8-10 minutes until deep brown. Add coconut and roast for 4-5 minutes until dark brown. Add garlic and ginger and cook for 1 minute.
    4. Grind the roasted spices, onion and coconut with 1/2 cup stock to a very fine paste.
    5. Heat 5 tbsp oil in a pot on medium. Add bay leaves and the chopped onion and cook for 4 minutes until golden.
    6. Add the ground paste and fry for 5-6 minutes until it darkens. Lower the heat, add Kolhapuri masala and chilli powder and stir for 30 seconds.
    7. Add the mutton pieces and toss for 2 minutes. Pour in all the stock, adding water to make about 5 cups.
    8. Bring to a boil and simmer uncovered on medium-low for 15-20 minutes until a deep red oil layer collects on top. Adjust salt, garnish with coriander and serve hot.

    Tips

    • Use bony pieces; the gelatin in the bones gives the rassa body without thickeners.
    • Kolhapuri masala varies widely in heat. Start with less and add more after tasting.
    • Serve with pandhra rassa if you want the full Kolhapuri experience.

    Serve with

    Jowar bhakri, steamed rice, sliced onion and pandhra rassa.

  • Ukadiche Modak

    Ukadiche modak are the steamed sweet dumplings offered to Lord Ganesha, said to be his favourite food. During Ganesh Chaturthi, Maharashtrian and Konkani homes make them by the dozen, traditionally twenty-one as the first offering. The name comes from ukad, the cooked rice flour dough that forms the delicate shell.

    Inside is saran, a filling of freshly grated coconut cooked with jaggery, cardamom, nutmeg and sometimes poppy seeds, until sticky and fragrant. The shell is thin, soft and slightly translucent after steaming, pleated into a peak that looks like a closed lotus bud. A spoon of ghee is poured over each modak before eating.

    Shaping takes practice, but moulds are widely available for beginners. Modak are best eaten warm on the day they are made, as the rice shell firms up when it cools. Steaming them on turmeric or banana leaves adds a gentle aroma. Fried modak, made with a wheat flour shell, are a popular alternative in some homes.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMaharashtrian
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time45 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time75 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice flour / fresh coconut / jaggery / ghee

    Ingredients

    For the filling (saran)

    • 2 cups freshly grated coconut
    • 1 cup (180 g) grated jaggery
    • 1 tsp ghee
    • 1/2 tsp cardamom powder
    • A pinch of grated nutmeg
    • 1 tsp poppy seeds, lightly roasted (optional)

    For the dough (ukad)

    • 1 cup fine rice flour (preferably ambemohar or basmati)
    • 1 cup water
    • 1/4 tsp salt
    • 1 tsp ghee
    • Turmeric or banana leaves for steaming (optional)
    • Ghee to serve

    Method

    1. Heat ghee in a heavy pan on medium-low, add coconut and jaggery and stir. The jaggery will melt and the mixture will turn wet.
    2. Cook for 8-10 minutes, stirring often, until the moisture evaporates and the filling looks glossy and comes together. Add cardamom, nutmeg and poppy seeds. Cool.
    3. Bring the water, salt and ghee to a rolling boil in a pan. Lower the heat and add the rice flour all at once, stirring quickly to combine.
    4. Cover and leave on the lowest heat for 2 minutes, then turn off and keep covered for 5 minutes to steam.
    5. Transfer to a plate and, while still hot, knead with a bowl of cold water beside you for dipping your hands. Knead for 4-5 minutes until perfectly smooth and soft. Keep covered with a damp cloth.
    6. Take a lime-sized ball, oil your fingers and press it into a thin cup about 3 inches across, keeping the centre slightly thicker. Pinch the edge into 9-11 small pleats.
    7. Place a spoonful of filling inside, gather the pleats together and press them to a point at the top. Place each finished modak on a damp cloth.
    8. Line a steamer plate with leaves or a damp cloth, arrange the modak, and steam on medium-high for 12-15 minutes until the shells turn slightly glossy and translucent. Serve warm with ghee.

    Tips

    • Knead the dough while it is hot; cold dough cracks when shaped.
    • Use fresh coconut, not desiccated; the moisture keeps the filling soft.
    • Dip modak briefly in cold water before steaming to prevent cracking.

    Serve with

    A spoon of warm ghee poured over each modak.

  • Sol Kadhi

    Sol kadhi is the signature drink of the Konkan coast, served at the end of a Malvani or Goan meal to cool the palate after spicy fish curries. It combines thin coconut milk with an extract of kokum, the dried rind of a coastal fruit, which turns the mixture a pretty pale pink. It is never cooked, so it keeps the fresh flavour of coconut.

    The taste is gently tart, creamy and savoury, with a sharp note from raw garlic and green chilli and freshness from coriander. Kokum is believed to aid digestion and cool the body, which is why coastal families drink it in summer and after heavy meals. The colour comes entirely from kokum.

    In Malvan and Ratnagiri restaurants it is served in glasses alongside the thali or poured over steamed rice. It keeps for a day in the refrigerator, though the coconut milk may separate; stir before serving. Some versions temper it with cumin and curry leaves, though the raw version is most common in Malvan.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMalvani
    DietVegan
    CourseBeverage
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time0 minutes
    Total time20 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientscoconut / kokum / garlic / green chilli

    Ingredients

    • 10-12 dried kokum petals
    • 1 cup warm water for soaking kokum
    • 2 cups freshly grated coconut
    • 2 cups warm water for coconut milk
    • 2 garlic cloves
    • 1 green chilli
    • 3/4 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp sugar (optional)
    • 1 tbsp finely chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Soak the kokum petals in 1 cup warm water for 30 minutes. Squeeze them well in the water to release colour and sourness, then strain and discard the petals.
    2. Grind the coconut with garlic, green chilli and 1 cup warm water to a fine paste.
    3. Strain through a muslin cloth or fine sieve, squeezing hard to extract the first coconut milk.
    4. Return the coconut residue to the blender with the remaining 1 cup warm water, blend again and squeeze out a second, thinner extract. Combine both.
    5. Stir the kokum extract into the coconut milk gradually; it will turn pale pink. Add salt and sugar and taste for a balance of sour and creamy.
    6. Garnish with coriander and chill for 30 minutes. Stir before pouring into glasses.

    Tips

    • Do not heat sol kadhi; boiling makes the coconut milk split and lose its fresh taste.
    • Kokum agal (concentrate) works in a pinch: use about 2 tbsp and adjust to taste.
    • Canned coconut milk diluted with water can substitute, but fresh coconut gives far better flavour.

    Serve with

    Steamed rice and a Malvani fish thali, or as a digestive after the meal.