RAG Demo

Category: Food

  • Shrikhand

    Shrikhand is the strained-yogurt dessert of Maharashtra and Gujarat, made by hanging curd until it becomes chakka, a dense, cream-cheese-like mass, then beating it with sugar and flavourings. It is the centrepiece of Gudi Padwa lunches in Maharashtra and appears at weddings and festivals across both states. Amrakhand, with mango pulp, is the summer variation.

    The texture is smooth, thick and spoonable, cool on the tongue and gently tangy beneath the sweetness. Saffron gives a pale gold colour, cardamom and a little nutmeg add warmth, and chopped pistachios or charoli bring crunch. Good shrikhand is never grainy; passing it through a sieve after sweetening is what gives that silky finish.

    Shrikhand-puri is the classic pairing, with the hot, puffed puris used to scoop up the cold dessert. It is also served as a side in the festive thali next to batata bhaji and masale bhaat. Made at home it keeps well chilled for four days. Elaichi, kesar and mango versions are also sold in tubs across Maharashtra.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMaharashtrian
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time0 minutes
    Total time20 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientscurd / sugar / saffron / cardamom

    Ingredients

    • 1 kg fresh full-fat curd (yields about 450 g chakka)
    • 3/4 to 1 cup powdered sugar, to taste
    • A generous pinch of saffron soaked in 2 tbsp warm milk
    • 1/2 tsp cardamom powder
    • A small pinch of grated nutmeg
    • 1 tbsp chopped pistachios
    • 1 tbsp charoli (chironji) or sliced almonds

    Method

    1. Line a large sieve with a clean muslin cloth and set it over a bowl. Pour in the curd, gather the corners and tie into a bundle.
    2. Hang the bundle from a tap or place the sieve with a weight on top in the refrigerator for 8-10 hours, or overnight, until the curd is thick and no longer drips. It should hold its shape like soft paneer.
    3. Scrape the chakka into a bowl. Add the powdered sugar and mix with a spatula until the sugar dissolves completely; the mixture will loosen at first.
    4. Push the mixture through a fine sieve or a puran yantra with the back of a spoon. This step removes any lumps and makes it silky.
    5. Stir in the saffron milk, cardamom and nutmeg. Taste and add a little more sugar if needed.
    6. Fold in half the nuts, transfer to a serving bowl and top with the remaining nuts. Chill for at least 2 hours before serving.

    Tips

    • Hang the curd in the fridge, not on the counter, or it will turn too sour in warm weather.
    • Use powdered sugar rather than granulated so it dissolves without leaving grains.
    • Keep the drained whey; it is excellent for kneading chapati dough or in kadhi.

    Serve with

    Hot puris and batata bhaji, as part of a Gudi Padwa thali.

  • Vada Pav

    Vada pav was born in the 1960s near Dadar station in Mumbai, when Ashok Vaidya started selling batata vadas inside pav to mill workers who needed something cheap, filling and quick. It became the city's signature street food and an emblem of Mumbai itself, sold at thousands of stalls from early morning to late night.

    The vada is a ball of mashed potato tempered with mustard seeds, curry leaves, plenty of garlic, ginger and green chilli, dipped in a thin besan batter and fried until crisp. It goes into a soft, split pav smeared with red dry garlic chutney and a tangy green chutney. Bits of fried batter, called chura, are often sprinkled inside for extra crunch.

    It is eaten on the go, standing at the stall, with a fried green chilli sprinkled with salt. At home it makes a good monsoon evening snack. The vadas can be made ahead and fried just before eating. The garlic chutney is the soul of the dish, so make a good batch with dry coconut, garlic and red chilli and store it in a jar for weeks.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMaharashtrian
    DietVegan
    CourseStreet food
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientspotato / besan / pav / garlic

    Ingredients

    For the potato filling

    • 4 medium potatoes (about 500 g), boiled, peeled and coarsely mashed
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 10 curry leaves
    • 8 garlic cloves, 1 inch ginger and 3 green chillies, pounded coarsely
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 1 tsp lemon juice

    For the batter

    • 1 cup (100 g) besan
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1/4 tsp red chilli powder
    • A pinch of baking soda
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • About 3/4 cup water

    To assemble

    • 8 ladi pav
    • Dry garlic chutney (lasun chutney)
    • Green coriander chutney
    • 8 green chillies, slit
    • Oil for deep frying

    Method

    1. Heat oil on medium, crackle the mustard seeds, then add asafoetida, curry leaves and the pounded garlic-ginger-chilli. Saute for 1 minute until the raw garlic smell fades.
    2. Add turmeric, then the mashed potatoes and salt. Mix well for 2 minutes, turn off the heat and stir in coriander and lemon juice. Cool, then shape into 8 balls slightly flattened.
    3. Whisk the besan, turmeric, chilli powder, soda and salt with water into a smooth batter, thinner than pakora batter, that coats a spoon in a thin layer.
    4. Heat oil to medium-hot, about 175 C. Dip each vada in the batter, coat fully and slide into the oil.
    5. Fry 3-4 at a time for 3-4 minutes, turning, until the coating is crisp and light golden. Drain. Drizzle a little leftover batter into the oil to make crunchy chura and drain that too.
    6. Fry the slit green chillies in the same oil for 30 seconds until blistered, then toss with salt.
    7. Slit each pav horizontally without cutting through. Spread green chutney on one side and sprinkle dry garlic chutney generously on the other. Add some chura, place a hot vada inside and press lightly.

    Tips

    • Mash the potatoes by hand, not in a mixer, so the filling has texture and does not turn gluey.
    • A thinner batter gives the thin, crisp shell of the street version; thick batter makes it doughy.
    • Warm the pav on a tawa for a few seconds if it is a day old.

    Serve with

    Fried salted green chillies and cutting chai.

  • Mirchi Vada

    Mirchi vada is Jodhpur's other famous fried snack, sold alongside pyaaz kachori at stalls across the old city. Large, thick-walled green chillies, locally called bhavnagri or simply vada mirchi, are slit, stuffed with spiced potato, coated in gram flour batter and fried. The chillies are fleshy and fairly mild, so the heat is a warm background rather than a punch.

    Vendors fry them twice: once to cook the chilli and set the batter, and again just before serving so the crust is shatteringly crisp. The potato filling is sharp with amchur and fennel, which balances the green, slightly bitter flavour of the pepper. Each bite gives crunch, then soft chilli, then the tangy mash.

    They are best eaten hot, during the monsoon, with a cup of strong chai. In Jodhpur the vada is often sliced and stuffed into a pav or served with a sweet tamarind chutney and a sprinkle of chaat masala. Two make a filling snack. Leftovers can be revived in a hot oven for five minutes, though nothing beats one straight from the kadhai.

    At a glance

    RegionRajasthan
    CuisineRajasthani
    DietVegan
    CourseStreet food
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientslarge green chillies / potato / besan / amchur

    Ingredients

    For the chillies and filling

    • 8 large, thick bhavnagri chillies
    • 3 medium potatoes (about 350 g), boiled and mashed
    • 1 tsp fennel seeds, crushed
    • 1 tsp coriander seeds, crushed
    • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp amchur
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 1 tbsp oil

    For the batter

    • 1 cup (100 g) besan
    • 1 tbsp rice flour
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • A pinch of baking soda
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • About 1/2 cup water

    To fry and finish

    • Oil for deep frying
    • Chaat masala to sprinkle

    Method

    1. Wash and dry the chillies. Make a lengthwise slit in each, leaving the stem and tip intact, and scrape out the seeds with a small spoon.
    2. Heat 1 tbsp oil on medium, add the crushed fennel and coriander for 20 seconds, then add the mashed potato, powdered spices and salt. Mix for 2 minutes and stir in coriander. Cool.
    3. Pack each chilli firmly with filling so it bulges slightly and the slit closes over it.
    4. Whisk besan, rice flour, turmeric, ajwain, soda and salt with water into a thick batter that coats the back of a spoon heavily. Beat for 2 minutes to aerate.
    5. Heat oil to medium-hot, around 170 C. Hold a chilli by the stem, dip it in the batter to coat fully, and lower it into the oil.
    6. Fry 3-4 at a time for 4-5 minutes, turning, until the batter is set and pale gold. Drain and rest for at least 10 minutes.
    7. To serve, heat the oil to hot, about 185 C, and fry the vadas again for 1-2 minutes until deep golden and crisp. Drain and sprinkle chaat masala.

    Tips

    • Choose straight, fat chillies with thick walls; thin chillies blister and split in the oil.
    • The double fry is what keeps the crust crisp for longer. The first fry can be done an hour ahead.
    • If your chillies are hot, soak them in salted water for 15 minutes after deseeding to tame them.

    Serve with

    Sweet tamarind chutney, green chutney and hot masala chai.

  • Khatta Dhokla

    Khatta dhokla is the original dhokla of Gujarat, older and plainer than the yellow besan khaman that outsiders usually picture. It is made from rice and a little urad or chana dal, ground coarse with sour curd and left to ferment overnight. The name means sour dhokla, and that gentle tang from fermentation is the whole point.

    The texture is soft, slightly grainy and moist, closer to a thick idli than to a sponge cake. The pieces are pale white, dusted with crushed black pepper or red chilli on top before steaming, and finished with oil tempered with mustard and sesame seeds. There is no sugar syrup poured over, which keeps the flavour savoury and clean.

    Gujarati homes make it for breakfast, as a tea-time snack, or as part of a Sunday farsan spread. It is often eaten with a drizzle of raw groundnut oil and a spoon of garlic chutney, a combination common in Kathiawad. Leftover pieces are tossed in a pan with tadka the next day.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time45 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / urad dal / curd / ginger

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1 cup rice (regular or idli rice)
    • 1/4 cup urad dal
    • 2 tbsp chana dal
    • 1/2 cup sour curd
    • About 1/2 cup water
    • 1 tbsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp oil
    • 1/2 tsp Eno fruit salt or 1/4 tsp baking soda

    For topping and tadka

    • 1/2 tsp crushed black pepper
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp white sesame seeds
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 8-10 curry leaves
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Wash the rice and dals together and soak in plenty of water for 5-6 hours.
    2. Drain and grind with the sour curd and just enough water to a slightly coarse, thick batter, like fine semolina. Transfer to a large bowl, cover and ferment in a warm place for 8-10 hours, until bubbly and pleasantly sour.
    3. Set up a steamer with 2 inches of water on high heat. Grease a 7-8 inch thali or cake tin with oil.
    4. Stir the ginger-chilli paste, salt and 1 tbsp oil into the batter. Just before steaming, add Eno with a splash of water on top of it and fold gently in one direction until the batter turns frothy.
    5. Pour into the greased thali to about 1/2 inch deep. Sprinkle crushed pepper over the surface.
    6. Steam on high for 12-15 minutes until a knife inserted in the centre comes out clean. Rest for 5 minutes, then cut into squares or diamonds.
    7. Heat 2 tbsp oil, add mustard seeds and let them pop, then add sesame, asafoetida and curry leaves. Pour evenly over the dhokla and garnish with coriander.

    Tips

    • In winter, ferment in an oven with just the light on, or add the salt before fermenting to speed it up.
    • Do not add Eno until the steamer is boiling; it loses its lift within a couple of minutes.
    • The batter should be thicker than idli batter; thin batter gives flat, dense dhokla.

    Serve with

    Garlic-red chilli chutney or green chutney, with raw groundnut oil drizzled on top.

  • Khaman

    Khaman is the bright yellow, sponge-soft gram flour cake that most people outside Gujarat call dhokla. In Ahmedabad and Surat the distinction is clear: dhokla is fermented rice batter, khaman is besan raised with citric acid and soda. Farsan shops sell it by weight every morning, along with nylon khaman, an even lighter version.

    Good khaman is airy and moist, with an open crumb that drinks up the tempering. That final pour of water, sugar, lemon and tempered mustard seeds is what makes it sweet, sour and juicy rather than dry. It should spring back when pressed and leave the plate slightly wet. Lemon and sugar should both be clearly present.

    It is eaten at breakfast, packed in tiffins and served to guests at any hour, usually with a sweet-hot green chutney and fried green chillies. Because it takes so little time, it is a common answer when visitors arrive unannounced in a Gujarati home. Leftover pieces stay soft for a day if kept covered at room temperature, and they are often packed for school lunch boxes.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegan
    CourseSnack
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time35 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbesan / lemon / sugar / mustard seeds

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1 1/2 cups (150 g) fine besan
    • 1 tbsp semolina (optional, for structure)
    • 1 tbsp sugar
    • 1 tsp citric acid or 2 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 tsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 3/4 tsp salt
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tbsp oil
    • About 3/4 cup water
    • 1 1/2 tsp Eno fruit salt

    For the tempering

    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp sesame seeds
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 10 curry leaves
    • 1/2 cup water
    • 2 tbsp sugar
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 2 tbsp grated fresh coconut and chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Put 2 inches of water in a steamer or large pan with a stand and bring it to a rolling boil on high heat. Grease an 8-inch tin.
    2. Sift the besan into a bowl. Add semolina, sugar, citric acid, ginger-chilli paste, salt, turmeric and oil. Whisk in water gradually to a smooth batter that flows like pancake batter, then whisk for 2 minutes more.
    3. Add Eno, pour 1 tsp water over it and whisk briskly in one direction for 10 seconds. The batter will double and turn pale. Pour immediately into the tin.
    4. Steam covered on high for 15-18 minutes without opening the lid for the first 12. A skewer in the centre should come out clean.
    5. Rest the khaman for 5 minutes, then run a knife round the edge and cut into squares while still in the tin.
    6. For the tempering, heat oil, crackle mustard seeds, add sesame, asafoetida, chillies and curry leaves for 20 seconds. Carefully add the water and sugar and boil for 1 minute until the sugar dissolves. Turn off and add lemon juice.
    7. Spoon the hot tempering evenly over the warm khaman so it soaks in. Garnish with coconut and coriander.

    Tips

    • Old besan or a batter left standing after adding Eno gives dense khaman. Work quickly once the Eno goes in.
    • If the top turns reddish, there is too much soda for the acid; add a little more lemon next time.
    • Pour the tempering while the khaman is still warm so it absorbs fully.

    Serve with

    Green chutney, fried salted green chillies and a cup of tea.

  • Khandvi

    Khandvi, also called patuli or suralichi vadi in Maharashtra, is the most delicate of Gujarati farsan. Gram flour and sour buttermilk are cooked together into a glossy paste, spread paper-thin on a counter or the back of a thali, cut into strips and rolled. Done well, the rolls are soft enough to collapse on the tongue.

    The flavour is mild and tangy from the buttermilk, with a little ginger and green chilli, and the tempering of mustard seeds, sesame and curry leaves adds crunch and aroma. Coconut and coriander on top bring freshness. It is never heavy, which is why it appears at weddings and festive meals alongside richer sweets.

    Khandvi has a reputation for being tricky, and the difficulty lies in judging when the batter is cooked. Undercooked, it will not set; overcooked, it turns lumpy and refuses to spread. The plate test in step five takes the guesswork away. Once you have the knack, a whole batch takes under half an hour from bowl to plate.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time30 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbesan / buttermilk / sesame seeds / coconut

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1/2 cup (50 g) besan
    • 1/2 cup sour curd whisked with 1 cup water (1 1/2 cups buttermilk)
    • 1 tsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • A pinch of asafoetida

    For the tempering

    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp white sesame seeds
    • 8 curry leaves
    • 1 green chilli, finely chopped
    • 2 tbsp grated fresh coconut
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Lightly grease the back of two large steel thalis or a clean kitchen counter, and keep a spatula ready.
    2. Whisk the besan, buttermilk, ginger-chilli paste, turmeric, salt and asafoetida in a heavy non-stick pan until completely smooth with no lumps.
    3. Place the pan on medium-low heat and stir continuously with a whisk. After 4-5 minutes it will start thickening; switch to a spatula and keep stirring, scraping the sides.
    4. Continue for another 6-8 minutes. The mixture will turn thick, glossy and leave the sides of the pan as one mass.
    5. Test: spread a spoonful thinly on a greased plate and wait 30 seconds. If it peels and rolls cleanly, it is ready. If it sticks, cook 1-2 minutes more and test again.
    6. Working fast while hot, pour a portion onto the greased surface and spread it thin and even with the spatula in long strokes. Repeat with the rest.
    7. Let it set for 5 minutes. Cut into strips 2 inches wide and roll each strip tightly from one end. Arrange on a plate seam side down.
    8. Heat oil, crackle mustard seeds, add sesame, curry leaves and chilli for 20 seconds. Pour over the rolls and garnish with coconut and coriander.

    Tips

    • Use a 1:3 ratio of besan to buttermilk by volume; this is the proportion that sets reliably.
    • Spreading must be done the moment it comes off the heat. As it cools it thickens and tears.
    • Pressure-cooker method: cook the batter in a bowl for 3 whistles, then whisk smooth and spread.

    Serve with

    Eaten as is, or with a thin green chutney as part of a farsan plate.

  • Methi Thepla

    Every Gujarati family that travels carries theplas. These thin, spiced flatbreads made with whole wheat flour and fresh fenugreek stay soft for three to four days without refrigeration, so they fill tiffins on train journeys, foreign trips and pilgrimages. The curd and oil in the dough are what keep them supple long after cooking.

    Methi gives a pleasant bitterness that is balanced by a little jaggery or sugar, turmeric, chilli and sesame seeds. Some cooks add a spoon of besan for a nuttier taste. The thepla is rolled thinner than a paratha and cooked with a light brush of oil, so it is soft and flexible rather than flaky.

    At home it is a breakfast or dinner bread, eaten with chhundo (grated sweet mango pickle), plain curd or a dry potato shaak. Many families make theplas in bulk on Sunday and use them through the week. Dudhi, spinach or leftover dal can replace the methi, and each variation has its loyal fans within the same household.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseBread
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientswhole wheat flour / fenugreek leaves / curd / sesame seeds

    Ingredients

    • 2 cups (240 g) whole wheat flour
    • 2 tbsp besan
    • 1 cup fresh methi leaves, washed and finely chopped (packed)
    • 1/3 cup curd
    • 1 tsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander-cumin powder
    • 1 tsp white sesame seeds
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • 1 tsp grated jaggery or sugar
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp oil, plus more for cooking
    • Water as needed

    Method

    1. Combine the flour, besan, methi, all spices, sesame, ajwain, jaggery and salt in a wide bowl. Rub in 2 tbsp oil.
    2. Add the curd and mix. Add water a tablespoon at a time and knead into a soft, smooth dough, a little softer than chapati dough. Methi releases moisture, so go slowly.
    3. Rub a few drops of oil over the dough, cover and rest for 15-20 minutes.
    4. Divide into 12 balls. Dust one with flour and roll into a thin circle about 7 inches across, turning to keep it round.
    5. Heat a tawa on medium-high. Place the thepla on it and cook for about 30 seconds until small bubbles appear, then flip.
    6. Brush 1/2 tsp oil on top, flip again and press gently with a spatula. Brush the other side and cook until golden-brown spots appear on both sides, about 1 minute total.
    7. Stack the cooked theplas on a plate lined with a cloth and keep covered so they stay soft. Cool completely before packing.

    Tips

    • Do not add salt to the chopped methi and leave it standing; it will turn watery and make the dough sticky.
    • For travel, cool theplas fully before stacking in a container lined with paper so condensation does not make them soggy.
    • Cook on medium-high; too low a flame dries them out and they turn stiff.

    Serve with

    Chhundo or sweet mango pickle, plain curd and masala chai.

  • Undhiyu

    Undhiyu takes its name from undhu, meaning upside down. In villages around Surat the vegetables were packed into an earthen pot, sealed, turned upside down and buried in a pit with a fire on top. Today it is cooked on a stove, but it remains a winter dish, made when surti papdi, tuvar lilva, purple yam and small brinjals are in season, and especially on Uttarayan, the kite festival in January.

    The flavour comes from a fresh green masala of coriander, green garlic, coconut, ginger, chilli and sesame that is stuffed into the brinjals and potatoes and coats everything else. Methi muthia, fried fenugreek dumplings, go in towards the end and soak up the oil and masala. The result is rich, slightly sweet and full of contrasting textures.

    It is a feast dish, made in large quantities and eaten with puris, shrikhand or jalebi, and kadhi on the side. Many families prepare the muthia a day ahead to break up the work. The recipe below is the Surti style, which is green rather than red. Red, spicier versions are cooked around Bharuch and Ahmedabad.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time60 minutes
    Cook time60 minutes
    Total time120 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientssurti papdi / purple yam / baby brinjal / methi muthia

    Ingredients

    For the methi muthia

    • 1 cup chopped fresh methi
    • 1/2 cup coarse whole wheat flour
    • 1/4 cup besan
    • 1 tsp ginger-chilli paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • Oil for frying

    For the green masala

    • 1 1/2 cups chopped coriander
    • 1 cup chopped green garlic (or 10 garlic cloves)
    • 1/2 cup grated fresh coconut
    • 2 tbsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 2 tbsp white sesame seeds
    • 2 tbsp roasted peanuts, crushed
    • 1 tbsp sugar
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 tsp turmeric
    • 2 tsp coriander-cumin powder
    • 1 1/2 tsp salt

    For the vegetables

    • 250 g surti papdi, stringed
    • 1/2 cup fresh tuvar lilva (pigeon peas)
    • 8 small round brinjals
    • 8 baby potatoes, peeled
    • 200 g purple yam (kand), peeled and cubed
    • 2 small sweet potatoes, cubed
    • 1 raw banana, cut into thick rounds
    • 1/2 cup oil
    • 1 tsp ajwain
    • 1/4 tsp asafoetida
    • 1/2 cup water

    Method

    1. Mix all muthia ingredients except frying oil into a stiff dough without adding water. Shape into 20 small finger-sized logs and deep fry on medium heat for 4-5 minutes until golden and cooked through. Drain.
    2. Combine all the green masala ingredients in a bowl and mix with your hands. Set aside about one-third for stuffing.
    3. Make a deep cross cut in each brinjal and potato, keeping the base intact, and stuff with the reserved masala. Fry the cubes of yam, sweet potato and raw banana lightly in hot oil for 3-4 minutes until the edges are golden; this keeps them from turning mushy.
    4. Heat 1/2 cup oil in a wide heavy pot on medium. Add ajwain and asafoetida, then the papdi and tuvar lilva with half the remaining masala. Stir for 2 minutes.
    5. Layer the stuffed potatoes and brinjals over the beans, then the fried yam, sweet potato and banana. Spread the rest of the masala on top and sprinkle 1/2 cup water around the edges.
    6. Cover tightly and cook on low heat for 30-35 minutes without stirring. Shake the pot gently every 10 minutes to stop sticking.
    7. Check that a knife slides easily through the potato and yam. Add the fried muthia, cover again and cook 5-7 minutes more until they soften slightly. Fold very gently and rest for 10 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Undhiyu should be oily; the oil carries the masala and stops the vegetables from catching. Reduce it only slightly.
    • Do not stir with a spoon once layered; shaking the pot keeps the vegetables whole.
    • If green garlic is out of season, use regular garlic and a handful of spring onion greens.

    Serve with

    Hot puris, shrikhand or jalebi, and a bowl of Gujarati kadhi.

  • Pyaaz Kachori

    Pyaaz kachori belongs to Jodhpur, where sweet shops near the clock tower fry them from early morning and sell out before lunch. Unlike the dal kachori of Kota or the hing kachori of Delhi, the filling here is onion cooked down with besan, fennel and crushed coriander until it turns jammy. It is a snack built for travel and for heat, keeping well for a day because the fat in the dough and the dry filling resist going soggy.

    A good one is round, puffed and blistered, with a shell that shatters in thin layers rather than chewing like a puri. Inside, the onions are soft, sweet and sharp with green chilli and dried mango powder. The secret is patience at the stove: the kachoris go into barely warm oil and cook for twenty minutes or more, which is what builds that crackling, layered crust.

    In Rajasthan they are eaten as breakfast or tea-time food, slit open and spooned with saunth (sweet tamarind chutney) and a thin green chutney. At weddings they appear on the snack counter, and many families fry a batch for train journeys. They reheat well in an oven, which makes them practical for guests.

    At a glance

    RegionRajasthan
    CuisineRajasthani
    DietVegan
    CourseSnack
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time90 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientsmaida / onion / besan / fennel seeds

    Ingredients

    For the dough

    • 2 cups (250 g) maida
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1/3 cup (70 ml) oil or melted ghee, for moyan
    • About 1/2 cup cold water

    For the filling

    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tbsp fennel seeds, coarsely crushed
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds, coarsely crushed
    • 1/4 tsp asafoetida
    • 3 large onions (about 400 g), finely chopped
    • 2 green chillies and 1 inch ginger, finely chopped
    • 1 boiled potato, mashed
    • 4 tbsp besan
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp amchur
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    To fry

    • Oil for deep frying

    Method

    1. Rub the oil into the maida and salt with your fingertips for 3-4 minutes, until a fistful pressed together holds its shape like wet sand. This moyan is what makes the shell flaky.
    2. Add cold water a little at a time and bring together into a soft but not sticky dough without kneading hard. Cover with a damp cloth and rest for 30 minutes.
    3. For the filling, heat oil on medium, add cumin, fennel and coriander and let them sizzle for 20 seconds. Add asafoetida, then the onions, ginger and chillies.
    4. Cook the onions on medium for 6-8 minutes until translucent and just turning light gold at the edges, not brown. Lower the heat and add the besan; roast, stirring, for 3-4 minutes until it smells nutty.
    5. Add the powdered spices, salt and mashed potato and mix until the filling holds together in a dry lump. Stir in coriander and cool completely before using.
    6. Divide the dough into 12 balls and the filling into 12 portions. Flatten a ball into a 3-inch disc with thinner edges, place filling in the centre, pleat the edges up and pinch closed. Press gently into a 3-inch round, seam side down.
    7. Heat oil until just warm: a pinch of dough should rise slowly after 3-4 seconds. Slide in 4-5 kachoris and keep the flame at its lowest.
    8. After 8-10 minutes they will float and puff. Flip and keep frying on low, turning occasionally, for another 12-15 minutes until deep golden and crisp all over. Raise the heat for the last minute, then drain on a rack.

    Tips

    • If the oil is too hot, the shell browns fast and stays raw and chewy inside. Low heat for the full time is non-negotiable.
    • The filling must be dry and cold; wet filling steams the dough from inside and causes the kachori to burst in oil.
    • Leave one side slightly thicker when sealing and keep the sealed side down while flattening so it does not open.

    Serve with

    Sweet saunth chutney and green coriander-mint chutney, with masala chai.

  • Ghevar

    Ghevar is the monsoon sweet of Rajasthan, made in the weeks around Teej and Raksha Bandhan and rarely seen the rest of the year. Halwais in Jaipur and Ajmer pour a thin ghee-and-flour batter in streams into a deep ring mould set in hot ghee, building up a lacy, porous disc. Brides traditionally receive ghevar from their parents during Sawan, which keeps the sweet tied to the season.

    The plain disc is crisp, airy and nearly flavourless, a sponge for what comes next. Dipped in sugar syrup it becomes sweet and crunchy; topped with thickened rabri it turns rich and soft at the centre while keeping crunch at the edges. Malai ghevar, the most popular version, carries a thick layer of rabri, saffron and slivered nuts.

    Making it at home is about technique rather than fancy equipment. A small heavy pan, a steel ring or a narrow tall vessel, ice-cold batter and very hot ghee are enough. The first disc is usually a practice run, so make extra batter. Sweet shops sell it by the kilo in August, and a plain disc bought from them can be finished at home with fresh rabri.

    At a glance

    RegionRajasthan
    CuisineRajasthani
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time45 minutes
    Total time65 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientsmaida / ghee / sugar / milk

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1/4 cup (50 g) ghee, solid but soft
    • 4-5 ice cubes
    • 1 cup (125 g) maida
    • 1/4 cup cold milk
    • About 1 1/2 cups ice-cold water
    • 1 tsp lemon juice

    For the syrup

    • 1 cup sugar
    • 1/2 cup water
    • 4 green cardamoms, crushed

    For the topping

    • 1 litre full-fat milk, reduced to rabri with 3 tbsp sugar
    • A pinch of saffron soaked in 1 tbsp warm milk
    • 2 tbsp slivered almonds and pistachios

    To fry

    • About 500 g ghee

    Method

    1. Put the ghee and ice cubes in a bowl and rub together with your palm for 4-5 minutes until the ghee turns white and creamy. Remove any remaining ice.
    2. Add the maida in two parts with the cold milk, whisking until smooth. Gradually whisk in ice-cold water until the batter is very thin, like buttermilk. Add the lemon juice. Keep the bowl over ice.
    3. Make the syrup: boil sugar, water and cardamom for 6-7 minutes to a one-string consistency. Keep warm.
    4. Heat ghee in a deep, narrow pan or in a pan holding a 6-inch steel ring until it is very hot, filling it to about 3 inches deep. A drop of batter should sizzle hard and rise instantly.
    5. Pour 2 tbsp batter in a thin stream from a height of about a foot into the centre. It will froth violently. Wait until the froth settles, about 15-20 seconds, then pour the next stream into the centre again.
    6. Repeat 6-8 times, always into the centre, so a hole forms in the middle and the disc builds up in lacy layers. Cook on medium-high for 2-3 more minutes, ladling hot ghee over the centre, until golden and firm.
    7. Lift out the disc with a skewer through the centre hole and drain upright for a few minutes. Make the remaining discs the same way.
    8. Just before serving, dip each ghevar in warm syrup for a few seconds or pour syrup over it. Spread rabri on top, drizzle saffron milk and scatter nuts.

    Tips

    • The batter must stay ice-cold and the ghee very hot; that temperature shock is what produces the honeycomb.
    • If the batter stops forming lace and just sinks, it has become thick. Whisk in a little more cold water.
    • Plain fried discs keep for a week in an airtight tin; add syrup and rabri only on the day.

    Serve with

    Served on its own, cut into wedges, ideally with chilled rabri on the side.