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  • Onion Uttapam

    Uttapam, or oothappam in Tamil, is the thicker cousin of the dosa. In many homes it is made on the last day of a batch of batter, when it has turned sour and thick and will no longer spread thin. Onion uttapam is the classic version found on every darshini and tiffin centre menu across South India.

    It is about the thickness of a pancake, soft and spongy inside with a golden, crisp base and a topping of onions that turn sweet and slightly charred where they touch the pan. The slight sourness of well-fermented batter is part of the appeal. It is eaten for breakfast or dinner with sambar and chutney.

    At a glance

    RegionTamil Nadu
    CuisineTamil
    DietVegan
    CourseBreakfast
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time40 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsdosa batter / onion / green chillies / coriander

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 3 cups thick fermented dosa batter
    • salt to taste

    For the topping

    • 2 medium onions, finely chopped
    • 2 green chillies, finely chopped
    • 1 inch ginger, finely chopped
    • 3 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
    • few curry leaves, chopped
    • 1/4 tsp salt
    • oil or ghee for cooking

    Method

    1. Mix the onions, chillies, ginger, coriander, curry leaves and 1/4 tsp salt in a bowl. Keep aside.
    2. Check the batter: it should be thick and pourable, thicker than for plain dosa. Add salt if needed.
    3. Heat a cast-iron tawa on medium heat. Sprinkle a few drops of water; when they sizzle away immediately, wipe the tawa with an oiled onion half or cloth.
    4. Pour a ladle of batter in the centre and spread it gently in a circle about 15 cm wide and 1 cm thick. Do not spread thin.
    5. Immediately sprinkle 2-3 tbsp of the onion mix on top and press it lightly into the batter with the back of the ladle.
    6. Drizzle 1 tsp oil around the edges and over the top. Cover and cook on medium-low heat for 3-4 minutes until the top looks set and the base is golden brown.
    7. Flip carefully and cook the onion side for 2 minutes, pressing lightly, until the onions are browned in spots.
    8. Flip back, transfer to a plate and repeat. Lower the heat slightly between uttapams so the tawa does not overheat.

    Tips

    • Sour, 2-3 day old batter makes the softest and tastiest uttapam.
    • Covering while cooking helps the thick centre cook through without burning the base.
    • Grated carrot, chopped tomato or podi sprinkled on top are popular variations.

    Serve with

    Sambar, coconut chutney and tomato chutney, or a sprinkle of idli podi with gingelly oil.

  • Mutton Chukka

    Chukka means dry, and mutton chukka or chukka varuval is a fixture of Madurai and Chettinad military hotels, the old non-vegetarian eateries of Tamil Nadu. Unlike a kuzhambu it has no gravy; the meat is cooked until tender and then roasted in a kadai with shallots and spices until everything clings to the pieces.

    The flavour leans on black pepper and fennel rather than chilli powder, with gingelly oil and curry leaves giving it its southern character. The mutton should be tender inside and slightly caramelised outside, dark brown and coated in a thick masala. It is usually served as a side with rice and rasam, or as a starter.

    At a glance

    RegionTamil Nadu
    CuisineTamil
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time70 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / shallots / black pepper / fennel / curry leaves

    Ingredients

    For pressure cooking

    • 500 g mutton (goat), small bone-in pieces
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 tsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1/2 cup water

    For the roast

    • 3 tbsp gingelly oil
    • 1 tsp fennel seeds
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 2 cloves
    • 2 sprigs curry leaves
    • 20 shallots, sliced
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1.5 tsp coriander powder
    • 1.5 tsp freshly crushed black pepper
    • 1/2 tsp fennel powder
    • salt to taste
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the mutton with turmeric, salt, ginger-garlic paste and 1/2 cup water for 5-6 whistles on medium heat, until tender. Let the pressure release naturally. Do not discard the stock.
    2. Heat gingelly oil in a heavy kadai on medium heat. Add fennel seeds, cinnamon and cloves and fry for a few seconds until fragrant.
    3. Add one sprig of curry leaves and the shallots and fry for 8-10 minutes until deep golden brown. This browning gives the chukka its colour.
    4. Add ginger-garlic paste and green chillies and fry for 2 minutes.
    5. Lower the heat and add chilli powder and coriander powder. Stir for 30 seconds, adding a splash of the mutton stock if the masala starts to stick.
    6. Add the cooked mutton with its stock. Cook on medium-high heat, stirring, for 10-12 minutes until the liquid evaporates.
    7. Add crushed pepper, fennel powder and the second sprig of curry leaves. Keep roasting on medium heat for another 5-8 minutes, scraping the pan, until the mutton turns dark brown, the masala coats each piece and oil separates.
    8. Check salt, finish with coriander leaves and serve hot.

    Tips

    • Use mutton from the shoulder or leg with some fat; very lean meat turns dry when roasted.
    • Crush the pepper fresh just before adding; pre-ground pepper lacks the punch this dish needs.
    • Patience in the final roasting stage is what separates chukka from a semi-dry curry.

    Serve with

    Rice with rasam or a light dal, or as a starter with sliced onions and lemon.

  • Rava Kesari

    Rava kesari is the sweet Tamil households make when guests arrive without notice or when a small offering is needed for a pooja. It takes under half an hour, uses only pantry staples, and it is the sweet served at almost every South Indian wedding breakfast alongside ven pongal and vada. The name comes from kesar, the saffron that gives it its traditional orange-gold colour.

    Well-made kesari is soft, glossy and melt-in-the-mouth, with each grain of semolina distinct and coated in ghee. It should not be gluey or dry. The flavour is buttery and sweet with cardamom, and the fried cashews add crunch. Pineapple or banana kesari are popular variations using the same base. A spoonful is often the first thing served at a South Indian wedding.

    At a glance

    RegionTamil Nadu
    CuisineTamil
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time5 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time25 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientssemolina / ghee / sugar / saffron / cashews

    Ingredients

    • 1 cup fine rava (Bombay rava / semolina)
    • 1/2 cup ghee, divided
    • 12 cashews, halved
    • 1 tbsp raisins
    • 2.5 cups water
    • 1 cup sugar (up to 1.25 cups if you like it sweeter)
    • a generous pinch of saffron, soaked in 2 tbsp warm milk
    • pinch of orange food colour (optional)
    • 1/2 tsp cardamom powder
    • pinch of salt

    Method

    1. Heat 2 tbsp ghee in a heavy kadai on medium-low heat. Fry the cashews until golden, then the raisins until they puff. Remove and keep aside.
    2. In the same ghee, add the rava and roast on low heat for 6-8 minutes, stirring continuously, until aromatic and each grain looks dry and separate. It should not change colour much.
    3. Meanwhile bring 2.5 cups water to a rolling boil in another pan with the saffron milk and food colour if using.
    4. Reduce the heat under the rava to the lowest setting and pour in the boiling water slowly, stirring all the time. It will splutter, so stand back.
    5. Keep stirring for 2-3 minutes until the rava absorbs all the water and turns thick. Cover and cook on low heat for 2 minutes so it cooks through.
    6. Add the sugar and a pinch of salt. The mixture will loosen and turn liquid again; keep stirring on low heat for 4-5 minutes until it thickens.
    7. Add the remaining ghee a spoon at a time, stirring after each addition, until the kesari is glossy and starts to leave the sides of the pan.
    8. Stir in cardamom powder, fried cashews and raisins. Serve warm, or press into a greased plate and cut into pieces once set.

    Tips

    • Add sugar only after the rava is fully cooked; sugar added earlier stops the semolina from softening.
    • The water must be boiling when added, or the kesari turns lumpy.
    • Use 1:2.5 rava to water for soft kesari, 1:2 if you want firm pieces that can be cut.

    Serve with

    Ven pongal and medu vada for a classic South Indian festive breakfast.

  • Kuzhi Paniyaram

    Kuzhi paniyaram is closely associated with Chettinad and the Madurai region, where it is a standard evening tiffin. The name refers to the kuzhi, the round pits of the cast-iron pan in which the batter is cooked. Most homes make it with idli or dosa batter that has turned a little too sour, which makes it a clever way to use up leftovers.

    Each paniyaram is golden and crunchy on the outside and soft and spongy within, flecked with onion, green chilli, ginger and coconut. It is eaten hot as a snack or light dinner with chutneys. A sweet version made with jaggery and banana is equally popular, but the savoury kara paniyaram described here is the everyday one.

    At a glance

    RegionTamil Nadu
    CuisineChettinad
    DietVegan
    CourseBreakfast
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time40 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsidli batter / onion / green chillies / coconut

    Ingredients

    • 2 cups thick idli or dosa batter (slightly sour is fine)
    • 2 tsp oil, plus about 4 tbsp for the pan
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp urad dal
    • 1 tsp chana dal
    • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
    • 2 green chillies, finely chopped
    • 1 inch ginger, finely chopped
    • 1 sprig curry leaves, chopped
    • 2 tbsp grated coconut
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
    • 1/4 tsp salt, if the batter needs it
    • 1/4 tsp baking soda (optional)

    Method

    1. Bring the batter to room temperature. It should be thick, like idli batter; if it is runny, stir in 1-2 tbsp rice flour.
    2. Heat 2 tsp oil in a small pan, splutter mustard seeds, then fry urad dal and chana dal until golden. Add onion, chillies, ginger and curry leaves and saute for 2-3 minutes until the onion is translucent.
    3. Add this tempering, coconut and coriander to the batter. Check salt, add baking soda if the batter is not very fermented, and mix gently.
    4. Heat the paniyaram pan on medium heat and pour about 1/2 tsp oil into each pit. The pan is ready when a drop of batter sizzles immediately.
    5. Fill each pit about three-quarters full with batter. Cover and cook on medium-low heat for 3-4 minutes until the edges are golden and the top looks set.
    6. Using a skewer or spoon handle, turn each paniyaram over, drizzle a few drops of oil around it and cook uncovered for another 2-3 minutes until the second side is golden and crisp.
    7. Lift them out onto a plate and repeat with the remaining batter, re-oiling the pits each time.

    Tips

    • A well-seasoned cast-iron paniyaram pan gives the crispest crust; nonstick works but browns less.
    • Keep the heat at medium-low, or the outside browns before the inside cooks through.
    • Batter that is 2-3 days old and slightly sour gives the best flavour.

    Serve with

    Coconut chutney, tomato kara chutney or Chettinad kara chutney with shallots.

  • Kara Kuzhambu

    Kara kuzhambu means spicy gravy, and it is the dish Tamil homes make when they want something bold without dal. It is built on tamarind, gingelly oil and a generous amount of chilli, and is cooked down until the oil floats on top. Because of the tamarind and oil it keeps for two or three days without refrigeration, so it was a practical dish in villages.

    Small onions and whole garlic cloves are the classic vegetables, often with brinjal, drumstick or ladies finger. The gravy is thick, glossy and sharply sour-hot, with sweetness from the shallots and a touch of jaggery. A small amount goes a long way, mixed into hot rice with a spoon of gingelly oil.

    At a glance

    RegionTamil Nadu
    CuisineTamil
    DietVegan
    CourseMain course
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time45 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientstamarind / shallots / garlic / brinjal / gingelly oil

    Ingredients

    • lemon-sized ball of tamarind, soaked in 2 cups warm water
    • 4 tbsp gingelly oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 1 tsp chana dal
    • 2 dry red chillies
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 15 shallots, peeled
    • 12 garlic cloves, peeled
    • 3 small brinjals, quartered
    • 1 tomato, chopped
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 2 tbsp sambar powder
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp salt, or to taste
    • 1 tsp grated jaggery
    • 1 tsp rice flour mixed in 2 tbsp water (optional)

    Method

    1. Extract thick tamarind water from the soaked tamarind, about 2 cups, and strain.
    2. Heat gingelly oil in a clay pot or heavy kadai on medium heat. Add mustard seeds, and when they splutter add fenugreek, chana dal and red chillies. Fry until the fenugreek turns reddish brown, about 30 seconds, but not black.
    3. Add curry leaves, shallots and garlic and fry for 5-6 minutes until the shallots are soft and golden.
    4. Add the brinjal and fry for 3 minutes, then add tomato and cook until mushy.
    5. Lower the heat, add turmeric, sambar powder and chilli powder and stir for 1 minute so the spices roast in the oil without burning.
    6. Pour in the tamarind water, add salt and bring to a boil. Simmer on low-medium heat uncovered for 15-20 minutes, until the brinjal is soft, the gravy thickens and oil separates and floats on top.
    7. Stir in jaggery. If the gravy is still thin, add the rice flour slurry and simmer 2 minutes more.
    8. Rest for at least 30 minutes before serving; kara kuzhambu tastes better a few hours later.

    Tips

    • Gingelly oil is essential for the authentic taste; groundnut oil is the only reasonable substitute.
    • Do not rush the simmering; the raw tamarind taste must cook out completely.
    • Sun-dried sundakkai or manathakkali vathal fried in the oil at the start turns this into vatha kuzhambu.

    Serve with

    Hot rice with a spoon of gingelly oil, appalam and keerai poriyal or a mild kootu.

  • Beans Poriyal

    Poriyal is the generic Tamil word for a dry vegetable stir-fry, and beans poriyal is one of the most common on a weekday lunch plate. It is light, not oily, and relies on the freshness of the beans and a handful of grated coconut rather than spice powders. The same method works for cabbage, carrot or cluster beans.

    The beans are chopped very fine so they cook quickly and stay bright green with a slight bite. The tempering of urad dal adds a nutty crunch, and coconut gives sweetness. It is a side dish rather than a main, served alongside sambar or rasam with rice, and it travels well in a lunchbox.

    At a glance

    RegionTamil Nadu
    CuisineTamil
    DietVegan
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time12 minutes
    Total time27 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsfrench beans / coconut / urad dal / curry leaves

    Ingredients

    • 250 g French beans, strings removed, chopped into 5 mm pieces
    • 1 tbsp coconut oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp urad dal
    • 1 dry red chilli, broken
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • pinch of asafoetida
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1/2 tsp salt, or to taste
    • 3 tbsp water
    • 1/3 cup freshly grated coconut

    Method

    1. Wash the beans before chopping, not after, so they do not get waterlogged. Chop them finely and evenly.
    2. Heat coconut oil in a kadai on medium heat. Add mustard seeds and let them splutter fully.
    3. Add urad dal and red chilli and fry until the dal turns golden, about 40 seconds. Add curry leaves and asafoetida.
    4. Add the beans, turmeric and salt and toss for 1 minute to coat in the oil.
    5. Sprinkle 3 tbsp water, cover and cook on low heat for 6-8 minutes, stirring once, until the beans are tender but still green with a slight crunch.
    6. Uncover and cook for another minute on medium heat to dry off any remaining water.
    7. Switch off the heat, add the grated coconut and toss well. Serve warm.

    Tips

    • Add coconut only after switching off the heat, otherwise it dries out and loses its sweetness.
    • Do not add too much water; the beans should steam, not boil.
    • A tablespoon of soaked moong dal cooked along with the beans makes a more filling version.

    Serve with

    Rice with sambar, rasam or mor kuzhambu.

  • Curd Rice

    No Tamil meal is complete without thayir sadam at the end. After the heat of sambar and rasam, curd rice settles the stomach and cools the body, which matters in a state where summer temperatures stay high for months. It is also served at temples, packed for journeys, and given to children and anyone with an upset stomach.

    Good curd rice is creamy and loose, never stiff. The rice is cooked soft and mashed while warm, then mixed with fresh curd and a little milk so that it does not turn too sour as it sits. The tempering adds crunch and a gentle heat, and grated carrot, cucumber, grapes or pomegranate are common additions in homes and restaurants.

    At a glance

    RegionTamil Nadu
    CuisineTamil
    DietVegetarian
    CourseRice
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time30 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / curd / milk / ginger / curry leaves

    Ingredients

    For the rice

    • 1 cup raw ponni or sona masoori rice
    • 3.5 cups water
    • 1.5 cups fresh thick curd
    • 1/2 cup boiled and cooled milk
    • 1 tsp salt, or to taste
    • 1 small carrot, grated
    • 2 tbsp pomegranate arils (optional)

    For the tempering

    • 1 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp urad dal
    • 1 inch ginger, finely chopped
    • 1-2 green chillies, finely chopped
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • pinch of asafoetida
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Wash the rice and pressure cook with 3.5 cups water for 4-5 whistles on medium heat so it is very soft. Let the pressure drop naturally.
    2. While still warm, mash the rice well with a ladle until it is creamy, with only a few whole grains left. Spread it out to cool until just lukewarm.
    3. Add the milk first and mix; this stops the curd from turning sour quickly. Then add the curd and salt and stir until smooth and loose. Add a few spoons of water if it feels thick.
    4. Heat oil in a small pan on medium heat, add mustard seeds and let them splutter. Add urad dal and fry until light golden.
    5. Add ginger, green chillies, curry leaves and asafoetida and fry for 20-30 seconds.
    6. Pour the tempering over the rice, add the grated carrot and coriander and mix well.
    7. Top with pomegranate if using. Serve at room temperature or chill for 30 minutes on a hot day.

    Tips

    • Never mix curd into hot rice; it splits and turns grainy.
    • Curd rice thickens as it rests, so keep it looser than you want to eat it, especially for lunchboxes.
    • For temple style, add a few chopped cashews to the tempering and a little cream instead of milk.

    Serve with

    Mango or lime pickle, mor milagai (sun-dried curd chillies) or a spoon of vatha kuzhambu.

  • Lemon Rice

    Elumichai sadam is one of the variety rices of Tamil Nadu, packed in tiffin boxes, carried on train journeys and offered at temples. It was designed to travel: the lemon and turmeric keep it fresh for hours at room temperature, and it tastes best when it has rested a while and the rice has soaked up the tempering.

    Each grain should be separate, bright yellow and glossy, with crunch from roasted peanuts and dals and a clean sourness from the lemon. It is never mushy. Families make it on busy mornings with leftover rice, and it is standard fare for festival days like Aadi Perukku, when several flavoured rices are cooked together.

    At a glance

    RegionTamil Nadu
    CuisineTamil
    DietVegan
    CourseRice
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time10 minutes
    Total time20 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / lemon / peanuts / green chillies / curry leaves

    Ingredients

    • 3 cups cooked rice (from 1 cup raw sona masoori or ponni), cooled
    • 3 tbsp gingelly or groundnut oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp chana dal
    • 1 tsp urad dal
    • 3 tbsp raw peanuts
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 1 dry red chilli, broken
    • 1 inch ginger, finely chopped
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 1/4 tsp asafoetida
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp salt, or to taste
    • juice of 2 lemons (about 4 tbsp)
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Spread the cooked rice on a plate so it cools completely and the grains separate. Freshly cooked hot rice breaks and turns pasty.
    2. Heat oil in a wide kadai on medium heat. Fry the peanuts for 2-3 minutes until they crackle and the skins darken in spots; lift them out and keep aside.
    3. In the same oil add mustard seeds. When they splutter, add chana dal and urad dal and fry for about 1 minute until golden.
    4. Add green chillies, red chilli, ginger and curry leaves and fry for 30 seconds until the leaves are crisp.
    5. Lower the heat, add asafoetida and turmeric, stir for 5 seconds and immediately switch off the heat so the turmeric does not burn.
    6. Add the salt and lemon juice to the tempering off the heat and stir. Cooking lemon juice makes it bitter.
    7. Add the rice and peanuts and gently fold with a flat spatula until every grain is evenly yellow. Taste and adjust salt and lemon.
    8. Mix in coriander and let the rice rest for 15-20 minutes before serving for the flavours to settle.

    Tips

    • Always add lemon juice off the heat.
    • Day-old refrigerated rice works very well; bring it to room temperature first.
    • For temple style, skip ginger and add a pinch of fenugreek powder to the tempering.

    Serve with

    Potato fry, appalam and a cup of curd, or coconut chutney for a lunchbox.

  • Tomato Rasam

    Rasam sits at the centre of a Tamil meal, served after sambar and before curd rice. Tomato rasam is the everyday version made in most Tamil homes several times a week, and every family has its own balance of tamarind, tomato and pepper. It needs no rasam powder; freshly crushed pepper, cumin and garlic do the work.

    The texture should be thin and clear, almost like a broth, with the solids settled at the bottom. It tastes sour, peppery and warm, with the fragrance of coriander and curry leaves. Many people drink it from a tumbler when they have a cold, and it is often the first food given to someone recovering from fever.

    At a glance

    RegionTamil Nadu
    CuisineTamil
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSoup
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time30 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientstomato / tamarind / black pepper / cumin / garlic

    Ingredients

    For the rasam

    • 3 ripe tomatoes
    • small lemon-sized ball of tamarind, soaked in 1 cup warm water
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 5 garlic cloves, unpeeled
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1/4 tsp asafoetida
    • 1 tsp salt, or to taste
    • 2.5 cups water
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 3 tbsp chopped coriander leaves with stems

    For the tadka

    • 1 tbsp ghee
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 dry red chilli, broken
    • 1/4 tsp cumin seeds
    • a few curry leaves

    Method

    1. Squeeze the soaked tamarind well and strain to get about 1 cup of thin tamarind water. Discard the pulp.
    2. Coarsely crush the peppercorns and cumin in a mortar, then add the garlic and pound a few times until bruised but not pasty.
    3. Chop one tomato finely. Crush the other two by hand straight into a pot, skins and all.
    4. Add the tamarind water, chopped tomato, turmeric, salt, asafoetida and curry leaves to the pot. Boil on medium heat for 8-10 minutes until the raw tamarind smell is gone and the tomatoes are soft.
    5. Add the crushed pepper-cumin-garlic and 2.5 cups water. Bring it up slowly on medium-low heat.
    6. Watch closely: when a layer of froth rises to the top and the rasam is just about to boil, switch off the heat. Do not let it boil hard, or it turns flat and bitter.
    7. Heat ghee in a small pan, splutter mustard seeds, then add red chilli, cumin and curry leaves for a few seconds. Pour over the rasam.
    8. Add the coriander, cover with a lid and leave for 5 minutes for the aroma to infuse before serving.

    Tips

    • The froth stage is the most important cue in rasam making; boiling past it dulls the flavour.
    • If your tomatoes are very sour, reduce the tamarind by half.
    • A teaspoon of cooked toor dal water added with the plain water gives a slightly fuller body without making it a dal.

    Serve with

    Hot rice with ghee and a potato or raw banana fry, or simply in a tumbler as a soup.

  • Chettinad Chicken

    The Nattukottai Chettiars of the Karaikudi belt were merchants who traded across Burma, Ceylon and Malaya, and their kitchens show it. Spices that were luxuries elsewhere were everyday stock in Chettinad homes, and dishes like this chicken kuzhambu are built on a masala roasted and ground fresh for each pot, never taken from a jar.

    The flavour is deep, peppery and smoky rather than simply hot. Kalpasi (stone flower) adds an earthy, almost mossy note, marathi mokku gives a mild mustardy bitterness, and roasted coconut thickens the gravy. In Chettinad homes it is a Sunday dish, eaten with plain rice first and then with idli or dosa the next morning, when the gravy has settled and tastes even better.

    At a glance

    RegionTamil Nadu
    CuisineChettinad
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time45 minutes
    Total time75 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / dry red chillies / coconut / black pepper / shallots

    Ingredients

    For the marinade

    • 750 g bone-in chicken, curry cut
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 3 tbsp thick curd

    For the Chettinad masala

    • 6-8 dry red chillies (mix of Guntur and Kashmiri)
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 1 tsp fennel seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 4 cloves
    • 2 green cardamoms
    • 2 inch cinnamon
    • 1 piece kalpasi (stone flower)
    • 1 marathi mokku
    • 1 star anise
    • 1/3 cup grated coconut

    For the gravy

    • 3 tbsp gingelly (sesame) oil
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 15 shallots, sliced
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 medium tomatoes, chopped
    • 1 tsp salt, or to taste
    • 1.5 cups water
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Mix the chicken with turmeric, salt and curd and keep aside for at least 30 minutes.
    2. In a dry pan on low heat, roast the red chillies, coriander, pepper, fennel, cumin, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, kalpasi, marathi mokku and star anise for 4-5 minutes, stirring constantly, until fragrant and the coriander turns a shade darker. Tip onto a plate.
    3. In the same pan roast the coconut on low heat for 3-4 minutes until golden brown and dry. Grind the spices to a powder first, then add the coconut and about 1/2 cup water and grind to a smooth paste.
    4. Heat the gingelly oil in a heavy kadai on medium heat. Add curry leaves and the sliced shallots and fry for 6-7 minutes until soft and golden at the edges.
    5. Add ginger-garlic paste and saute for 1 minute until the raw smell goes. Add tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes, mashing, until they collapse and oil appears at the sides.
    6. Add the marinated chicken, raise heat to medium-high and toss for 5-6 minutes until the pieces turn opaque on the outside.
    7. Stir in the ground masala and salt, and fry with the chicken for 3-4 minutes so the masala loses its raw taste and coats every piece.
    8. Pour in 1.5 cups water, bring to a boil, then cover and simmer on low heat for 20-25 minutes, stirring once or twice, until the chicken is tender and the gravy is thick with a film of red oil on top.
    9. Finish with chopped coriander, rest covered for 10 minutes and serve.

    Tips

    • Roast spices on low heat only; burnt fennel or chillies turn the whole gravy bitter.
    • Kalpasi and marathi mokku are available at any Tamil grocery; skip them if you must, but the dish loses its signature aroma.
    • For a drier pepper fry version, reduce the water to 1/2 cup and cook uncovered at the end until the masala clings.

    Serve with

    Steamed ponni rice, idli or flaky parotta, with a raw onion and curd salad on the side.