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Tag: Hard to make

  • Dal Baati Churma

    Dal baati churma is the defining meal of Rajasthan. Baati, a hard, round wheat bread, was ideal for the desert: it could be buried in hot sand or embers to bake and kept for days without spoiling, which made it useful for travelling traders and Rajput soldiers. Churma is said to have been discovered when a baati fell into jaggery and ghee and was crushed into sweet crumbs.

    The baatis are crisp outside and dense and crumbly within, made with coarse atta, semolina and generous ghee, then soaked in more melted ghee after baking. Panchmel dal combines five lentils, cooked thick and tempered with ghee, cumin, hing and dried red chillies. Churma is crushed fried baati mixed with ghee, sugar or jaggery, cardamom and nuts.

    It is the centrepiece of weddings, festivals and family gatherings, and is eaten by breaking the baati, pouring dal and ghee over it, and eating a bite of churma between mouthfuls. The baatis can be baked a few hours ahead and warmed before serving, while the dal and churma keep well. It is a filling meal, best followed by a nap. Garlic chutney and a glass of buttermilk are the customary sides.

    At a glance

    RegionRajasthan
    CuisineRajasthani
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time45 minutes
    Cook time75 minutes
    Total time120 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientswhole wheat flour / mixed lentils / ghee / sugar

    Ingredients

    For the baati (12)

    • 3 cups coarse whole wheat atta
    • 1/2 cup sooji
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp baking soda
    • 1/2 cup ghee, plus 1 cup melted ghee for dipping
    • About 3/4 cup warm milk or water

    For the panchmel dal

    • 1/4 cup each: toor dal, chana dal, moong dal, urad dal, masoor dal, soaked 1 hour
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 3 tbsp ghee
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 3 dried red chillies
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 green chillies, chopped
    • 2 tomatoes, chopped
    • 1 1/2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • Chopped coriander

    For the churma

    • 3 baatis, set aside after baking
    • 4 tbsp ghee
    • 1/2 cup powdered sugar or grated jaggery
    • 1/2 tsp green cardamom powder
    • 2 tbsp chopped almonds and cashews

    Method

    1. Mix atta, sooji, ajwain, salt and soda. Rub in 1/2 cup ghee until the mixture holds together when pressed. Add milk gradually and knead into a stiff dough. Rest 15 minutes.
    2. Divide into 12 balls, flatten slightly and press a thumb in the centre of each. Bake on a tray in an oven preheated to 200 C for 35 to 40 minutes, turning halfway, until golden-brown with cracks on the surface and hard when tapped.
    3. While baking, pressure cook the dals with 4 cups water, turmeric and salt for 3 whistles. Whisk lightly; the dal should be thick but not completely smooth.
    4. Heat ghee in a pan on medium, add hing, cumin and dried red chillies, then ginger-garlic paste and green chillies for a minute.
    5. Add tomatoes, coriander and chilli powder and cook 5 minutes until soft. Pour in the dal, simmer 10 minutes and finish with garam masala and coriander.
    6. Crack 9 hot baatis gently and immerse them in the melted ghee for a few minutes, then lift out.
    7. For churma, break the remaining 3 baatis and grind to coarse crumbs. Warm 4 tbsp ghee, add the crumbs and roast on low 3 to 4 minutes until fragrant. Cool slightly and mix in sugar, cardamom and nuts.
    8. Serve the ghee-soaked baatis with hot dal poured over and churma on the side.

    Tips

    • Coarse atta and ghee rubbed in well give the baati its crumbly interior.
    • Bafla baati is a variation: boil the baatis for 10 minutes before baking for a softer result.
    • Store leftover churma in an airtight jar for up to a week.

    Serve with

    Garlic chutney, kachumber salad and buttermilk.

  • Jalebi

    Jalebi likely arrived in India from West Asia, where a similar sweet called zalabiya is described in medieval Arabic cookbooks. By the fifteenth century it was well established in Indian kitchens, and today it is the quintessential halwai sweet of North India, fried in great spirals in front of the shop every morning.

    Proper jalebi is crisp on the outside, with hollow tubes filled with warm syrup that bursts when bitten. The batter is fermented, traditionally overnight, which gives a slight tang that balances the sweetness. A little saffron or food colour gives the bright orange tint, and the syrup is scented with cardamom and a touch of lemon to stop it crystallising.

    It is eaten hot for breakfast with rabri or milk in Uttar Pradesh, with poha in Indore, and as a festival sweet on Dussehra and Independence Day. It is best within minutes of frying. At home, a squeeze bottle makes piping easy, and the batter can be fermented overnight so the jalebis are ready for breakfast. The syrup should be warm but not boiling, and the jalebis should be crisp before they go in.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineUttar Pradesh
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientsmaida / curd / sugar / ghee / saffron

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1 cup maida
    • 1 tbsp fine sooji or 1 tbsp cornflour
    • 2 tbsp sour curd
    • 1/4 tsp baking soda (only for the quick method)
    • About 3/4 cup lukewarm water
    • A pinch of turmeric or a few saffron strands for colour

    For the syrup

    • 1 1/2 cups sugar
    • 3/4 cup water
    • 1/2 tsp green cardamom powder
    • A pinch of saffron
    • 1 tsp lemon juice

    For frying

    • Ghee or oil for shallow frying (about 3 cm deep)
    • A squeeze bottle or a thick cloth with a small hole

    Method

    1. Whisk maida, sooji, curd, colour and water into a smooth, thick batter, about the consistency of pancake batter that flows in a steady ribbon. Cover and leave in a warm place for 10 to 12 hours to ferment; it should be bubbly and slightly sour.
    2. For the syrup, boil sugar and water on medium until it reaches one-string consistency, about 6 to 7 minutes – a drop pressed between thumb and finger forms a single thread. Add cardamom, saffron and lemon juice. Keep it warm.
    3. Beat the fermented batter well for 2 minutes. If it has thinned, add a spoon of maida. (Quick method: add the soda now and use immediately.)
    4. Heat ghee in a wide, flat pan on medium, around 170 C. A drop of batter should rise steadily without browning instantly.
    5. Fill the squeeze bottle. Holding it just above the ghee, pipe 6 to 8 cm spirals from the centre outward, finishing with a cross stroke to hold them together.
    6. Fry 1 to 2 minutes per side, turning once, until crisp and light golden. They should feel firm, not soft.
    7. Lift out, drain for a second, and drop into the warm syrup. Soak 30 to 60 seconds, turning once, then lift out. Serve hot.

    Tips

    • Fry in small batches so the ghee temperature stays steady and every jalebi crisps evenly.
    • Too thin a batter spreads flat; too thick and it will not pipe smoothly.
    • Ghee gives the classic halwai flavour, but a neutral oil makes them crisper for longer.

    Serve with

    Hot with rabri or a glass of warm milk.

  • Galouti Kebab

    Galouti kebab is the pride of Lucknow. Legend says it was created for Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula, who had lost his teeth but not his love of meat, so his cooks devised a kebab soft enough to melt in the mouth. Galouti itself means soft. Tunday Kababi in Aminabad, famous for a secret spice mix said to run to over a hundred ingredients, made it known well beyond the city.

    The secret is texture. Mutton mince is ground to a paste, tenderised with raw papaya, bound with roasted gram flour and perfumed with cardamom, mace, saffron, rose and kewra. The patties are shallow fried in ghee until a thin crust forms while the inside stays almost creamy. A puff of clove smoke adds the finishing touch.

    Galoutis are served as a starter at Awadhi feasts and weddings, traditionally with ulte tawe ka paratha, a thin, flaky bread cooked on an upturned griddle, and sliced onions with mint chutney. Making them at home takes time, especially the grinding, but the mixture can be prepared a day ahead and kept chilled. A pinch of the spice blend sprinkled over the cooked kebabs adds a final burst of fragrance.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineAwadhi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time65 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton mince / raw papaya / besan / ghee / saffron

    Ingredients

    For the kebab mixture

    • 500 g mutton mince, with about 15 percent fat
    • 2 tbsp raw papaya paste (skin on)
    • 1 1/2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 tbsp roasted besan
    • 3 tbsp fried onions, crushed to a paste
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • A pinch of saffron in 1 tbsp warm milk
    • 1/2 tsp kewra water
    • 1/2 tsp rose water
    • 1 tbsp ghee

    For the galouti masala

    • 6 green cardamom
    • 1 black cardamom
    • 4 cloves
    • 1 small blade mace
    • 1/4 nutmeg
    • 1/2 tsp shahi jeera
    • 1/2 tsp black peppercorns
    • 1 tsp dried rose petals

    To cook

    • 4 tbsp ghee
    • 1 piece charcoal and 2 cloves for smoking (optional)

    Method

    1. Grind the galouti masala ingredients to a fine powder.
    2. Pass the mince through the fine plate of a mincer twice, or blitz it in a food processor in batches until it becomes a smooth, sticky paste with no visible fibres.
    3. Mix the mince with papaya paste, ginger-garlic paste, roasted besan, fried onion paste, chilli powder, salt and 1 1/2 tsp of the galouti masala. Add saffron milk, kewra, rose water and 1 tbsp ghee and knead 2 to 3 minutes.
    4. Cover and refrigerate for 4 hours, no longer – papaya will turn the meat mushy if left overnight.
    5. For smoke, heat the charcoal on a flame until glowing, place it in a small steel bowl set in the meat, add cloves and a few drops of ghee, cover for 5 minutes, then remove.
    6. With oiled hands, shape the mixture into thin patties about 6 cm across and 1 cm thick. They will be soft; chill them for 15 minutes if hard to handle.
    7. Heat ghee in a flat non-stick pan on medium. Fry 4 to 5 patties at a time for 2 to 3 minutes per side, turning once very gently with a flat spatula, until a deep brown crust forms.
    8. Drain briefly and serve immediately.

    Tips

    • Fat in the mince is essential for softness; very lean mince makes dry, crumbly kebabs.
    • Roast the besan on low until nutty and slightly darker before adding.
    • Flip only once; the patties are fragile until the crust sets.

    Serve with

    Ulte tawe ka paratha or sheermal, with onion rings and mint chutney.

  • Lucknowi Chicken Biryani

    Lucknowi or Awadhi biryani comes from the nawabi kitchens of Lucknow, where cooks perfected the pukki style: meat and rice cooked separately and then layered and finished on dum. It is the opposite of the fiery Hyderabadi kacchi biryani, prized instead for restraint, perfume and the separate, delicately flavoured grains.

    The chicken is first cooked in yogurt and whole spices to make a light, aromatic korma-like base with its own stock. Parboiled basmati is layered over it with saffron milk, kewra, rose water, fried onions and ghee, and the pot is sealed with dough. The result is subtle and fragrant, with gentle heat and moist, tender meat.

    Biryani is the centrepiece of Eid, weddings and Sunday feasts, served with burani raita or a simple onion salad. In Lucknow, it would be followed by phirni or shahi tukda. The chicken base can be made a few hours ahead, and the rice parboiled just before layering, so the pot can go on dum while guests arrive. Opening the seal at the table, with the burst of saffron and kewra aroma, is part of the ritual.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineAwadhi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseRice
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time75 minutes
    Total time115 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / basmati rice / yogurt / saffron / fried onions

    Ingredients

    For the chicken

    • 1 kg chicken, curry cut
    • 1 cup thick curd
    • 1 1/2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp white pepper powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 4 tbsp ghee
    • 4 green cardamom, 2 black cardamom, 6 cloves, 1 cinnamon stick, 1 blade mace, 2 bay leaves
    • 1 cup fried onions (birista), crushed
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 1 cup water

    For the rice

    • 2 1/2 cups aged basmati rice, soaked 30 minutes
    • 1 tbsp salt
    • 2 green cardamom, 4 cloves, 1 bay leaf, 1 tsp shahi jeera

    For layering

    • A generous pinch of saffron in 1/4 cup warm milk
    • 1 tsp kewra water
    • 1/2 tsp rose water
    • 3 tbsp ghee
    • 1/2 cup fried onions
    • 2 tbsp chopped mint
    • Atta dough to seal the lid

    Method

    1. Marinate chicken with curd, ginger-garlic paste, chilli powder, white pepper and salt for at least 1 hour.
    2. Heat ghee in a heavy biryani pot on medium. Add the whole spices and let them crackle for 30 seconds.
    3. Add the chicken with its marinade and the crushed fried onions. Cook on medium-high for 10 minutes, stirring, then add water, cover and simmer 15 minutes until the chicken is almost cooked and the gravy reduced to about 1 cup. Stir in garam masala.
    4. Meanwhile bring 3 litres of water to a rolling boil with salt and the rice spices. Add the drained rice and cook 6 to 7 minutes until 70 percent done – the grain should break with a firm white centre. Drain.
    5. Spread the rice over the chicken in an even layer. Drizzle with saffron milk, kewra, rose water and melted ghee, and scatter fried onions and mint.
    6. Cover with the lid and seal the edge with a rope of atta dough.
    7. Place the pot on a tawa over high heat for 5 minutes, then lower to the minimum and cook on dum for 25 minutes.
    8. Rest 10 minutes off the heat before breaking the seal. Serve by scooping from the side so each portion has rice and chicken.

    Tips

    • Parboiling the rice correctly is the crucial step; overcooked rice turns mushy on dum.
    • Fry your own onions thin and slowly until deep golden; they flavour both the chicken and the rice.
    • The salt in the boiling water should taste like sea water – the rice gets no other seasoning.

    Serve with

    Burani raita, onion-cucumber salad and mirchi ka salan or a light korma.

  • Nihari

    Nihari comes from the Arabic word nahar, meaning morning, and in Old Delhi it was traditionally eaten after the dawn prayer. The dish is said to have been cooked in the Mughal kitchens of the late eighteenth century, and the shops around Jama Masjid and Ballimaran still cook it overnight in sealed degs and sell out within hours of opening.

    Bone-in shanks and marrow bones simmer for many hours in a broth spiced with a dedicated nihari masala of fennel, dried ginger, long pepper, mace and nutmeg. Roasted wheat flour thickens it into a silky, glossy gravy, and a slick of spiced ghee floats on top. The meat should fall off the bone at a touch.

    It is eaten with khamiri roti or kulcha, garnished at the table with julienned ginger, green chillies, coriander, fried onions and lemon. In homes it is a weekend or Eid breakfast, often cooked the night before. The bone marrow is a prized part, sucked out straight from the bone. It is very rich, so most people eat it slowly, with long breaks for tea.

    At a glance

    RegionDelhi
    CuisineMughlai
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time240 minutes
    Total time260 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientsmutton shanks / atta / ghee / nihari masala

    Ingredients

    For the nihari masala

    • 1 tbsp saunf (fennel)
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 2 pippali (long pepper)
    • 4 cloves
    • 2 black cardamom
    • 4 green cardamom
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 1 blade mace
    • 1/4 nutmeg
    • 1 tsp sonth (dry ginger) powder

    For the nihari

    • 1 kg mutton shanks (nalli) and bone-in pieces
    • 2 marrow bones (optional)
    • 1/2 cup ghee
    • 2 large onions, thinly sliced
    • 2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 2 tsp salt
    • 8 cups hot water
    • 1/3 cup whole wheat atta mixed with 1 cup water

    To garnish

    • 2 inch ginger, julienned
    • 4 green chillies, sliced
    • Chopped coriander
    • Fried onions
    • Lemon wedges

    Method

    1. Dry-roast the whole spices for the nihari masala on low for 2 minutes until fragrant. Cool and grind fine with the sonth.
    2. Heat ghee in a large heavy pot on medium. Fry the onions for 12 to 15 minutes until deep golden. Lift out half and keep for garnish.
    3. Add the mutton and marrow bones and sear on medium-high for 8 minutes. Add ginger-garlic paste and fry 2 minutes.
    4. Add chilli powders, coriander, turmeric, salt and 2 tbsp of the nihari masala. Stir-fry 3 minutes, adding a splash of water if the spices stick.
    5. Pour in the hot water and bring to a boil. Cover tightly (seal the lid with dough if you like) and cook on the lowest heat for 3 to 3 1/2 hours, until the meat comes away from the bone easily.
    6. Meanwhile, dry-roast the atta in a small pan on low for 5 minutes until it smells nutty and turns light brown, then whisk it into 1 cup water until smooth.
    7. Skim off some of the fat from the top of the pot and reserve it. Stir the atta mixture into the nihari and simmer, stirring, for 20 to 25 minutes until silky and thick.
    8. Heat the reserved fat with 1 tsp chilli powder and 1 tsp nihari masala and pour over the top before serving. Garnish at the table.

    Tips

    • Shanks give the gelatinous body nihari is known for; boneless meat will not.
    • A pressure cooker cuts the cooking to about 50 minutes, but the slow-cooked version is noticeably silkier.
    • Nihari reheats well; it thickens on cooling, so loosen with hot water.

    Serve with

    Khamiri roti or kulcha, with ginger, green chillies, fried onions and lemon.

  • Malai Kofta

    Malai kofta is a vegetarian take on the meat koftas of Mughlai cooking, developed in the kitchens of Awadh and later popularised by North Indian restaurants. The name refers to cream, both in the gravy and, in many old recipes, in the kofta mixture itself, which makes the dumplings exceptionally soft.

    The koftas are made from grated paneer and boiled potato, bound with a little cornflour and stuffed with chopped cashews and raisins before being fried golden. They should be crisp outside and soft enough inside to break with a spoon. The gravy is a mild, silky blend of tomatoes, onions and cashews, finished with cream and a touch of sugar.

    It is a special-occasion dish for weddings, Diwali and dinner parties. To keep the koftas from turning soggy, the gravy is poured over them just before serving rather than simmered together. The koftas can be fried a day ahead and the gravy kept in the fridge, so the final assembly takes only minutes. Serve it with plain naan or a light peas pulao, since the dish itself is already very rich.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineMughlai
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time40 minutes
    Total time70 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspaneer / potato / cashew / cream / tomato

    Ingredients

    For the koftas

    • 200 g paneer, finely grated
    • 2 medium potatoes, boiled, cooled and grated
    • 2 tbsp cornflour, plus extra for coating
    • 1 green chilli, finely chopped
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1/4 tsp garam masala
    • 1 tbsp chopped cashews
    • 1 tbsp raisins
    • Oil for deep frying

    For the gravy

    • 2 tbsp butter
    • 1 tbsp oil
    • 1 bay leaf, 3 green cardamom, 3 cloves
    • 1 large onion, chopped
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 3 tomatoes, chopped
    • 15 cashews, soaked
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1/2 tsp kasuri methi
    • 1/4 cup fresh cream
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Mix paneer, potato, cornflour, green chilli, salt and garam masala and knead lightly into a smooth, crack-free dough. Divide into 12 portions.
    2. Flatten each portion, place a few pieces of cashew and a raisin in the centre, close and roll into a smooth ball or oval. Roll lightly in cornflour.
    3. Heat oil to medium-hot, about 170 C. Fry one test kofta first; if it breaks, add a little more cornflour to the mixture. Fry 3 to 4 at a time, turning gently, for 3 to 4 minutes until evenly golden. Drain on paper.
    4. For the gravy, heat butter and oil on medium, add the whole spices, then onion. Cook 4 minutes until soft and translucent.
    5. Add ginger-garlic paste for a minute, then tomatoes, cashews and a splash of water. Cover and cook 10 minutes until very soft. Cool and blend smooth, then strain.
    6. Return the puree to the pan with chilli powder, coriander powder, salt and 3/4 cup water. Simmer 10 minutes on low until creamy and glossy.
    7. Add sugar, garam masala and crushed kasuri methi, then stir in the cream and heat through.
    8. Arrange the koftas in a serving dish and pour the hot gravy over just before serving. Garnish with a swirl of cream.

    Tips

    • Squeeze excess moisture from the paneer and use potatoes boiled a few hours ahead; wet mixture causes koftas to split in oil.
    • Do not overcrowd the kadai – the oil temperature drops and koftas absorb oil.
    • Koftas can be fried up to a day ahead and reheated in a warm oven.

    Serve with

    Butter naan, kulcha or peas pulao.

  • Sorpotel

    Sorpotel is a rich, spicy Goan pork dish made for Christmas, weddings and feasts. It came from Portuguese sarapatel, a stew of offal, and Goan cooks made it their own with local chillies, spices and toddy vinegar. Traditional sorpotel uses pork meat, fat and liver, and sometimes heart and blood, boiled, diced small and cooked in a vinegar masala.

    The flavour is deeply savoury, tangy and spicy, with a rich, slightly gamey depth from the liver. The gravy is thick, dark red and coats every small piece of meat. Like vindaloo, sorpotel is cooked ahead, and families reheat it daily for several days, which concentrates the flavour. The texture is soft and rich.

    It is served with sannas, the soft steamed rice cakes of Goa, or with pao. A plate of sorpotel and sannas is the centrepiece of many Goan Christmas lunches. Many Goans believe sorpotel is best on the third day, and families plan their festive cooking around that. It also freezes well for later meals.

    At a glance

    RegionGoa
    CuisineGoan
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time90 minutes
    Total time130 minutes
    Serves8
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspork / pork liver / kashmiri chillies / vinegar

    Ingredients

    For boiling

    • 1 kg pork with fat (shoulder or belly)
    • 250 g pork liver
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • Water to cover

    For the masala

    • 20 dried Kashmiri chillies
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 8 cloves
    • 2 inch cinnamon
    • 1 tsp turmeric
    • 20 garlic cloves
    • 2 inch ginger
    • 3/4 cup coconut or palm vinegar

    For cooking

    • 3 tbsp oil or pork fat
    • 3 onions, finely chopped
    • 4 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tbsp sugar
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Put the pork and liver in a pot with salt, turmeric and water to cover. Bring to a boil and simmer for 20-25 minutes until just cooked.
    2. Remove the meat, cool and dice into very small, 1/2 inch cubes. Keep the stock.
    3. Soak the chillies in the vinegar for 30 minutes and grind with the other masala ingredients to a smooth paste.
    4. Heat oil in a heavy pot on medium. Fry the diced pork fat pieces first for 5 minutes to render fat, then add the onions and green chillies and cook for 10 minutes until golden.
    5. Add the masala paste and fry for 8-10 minutes until it darkens and oil separates.
    6. Add the diced meat and liver and fry for 5 minutes. Pour in 2 cups of the reserved stock and add sugar and salt.
    7. Simmer on low for 30-40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the gravy is thick and the meat is tender. Cool and refrigerate.
    8. Reheat once a day for 2-3 days before serving, adding a splash of vinegar or stock if it gets too thick.

    Tips

    • Dice the meat very small; this is characteristic of sorpotel.
    • Reheating daily is traditional and essential for the best flavour.
    • Keep the stock; it adds depth to the gravy.

    Serve with

    Sannas or Goan pao.

  • Bebinca

    Bebinca is the most celebrated Goan dessert, made for Christmas, Easter, weddings and other feasts. Legend says it was created by a nun in Old Goa who wanted to make a dessert with seven layers, representing the seven hills of Lisbon and Old Goa. Traditional bebinca has many more, often sixteen layers, built up one at a time.

    Each layer is a thin pour of a batter of coconut milk, egg yolks, sugar and a little flour, flavoured with nutmeg and cardamom. It is cooked under a top heat until golden, then brushed with ghee before the next layer is added. The result is a dense, rich, caramelised cake with distinct brown and pale stripes.

    Bebinca is served in thin slices, sometimes warm with vanilla ice cream. It keeps well for a week, making it a good dessert to prepare ahead for a feast. Goan households often take pride in their own bebinca, and many families still bake it in a clay oven with coconut husk embers on top, as their grandmothers did.

    At a glance

    RegionGoa
    CuisineGoan
    DietEggetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time120 minutes
    Total time150 minutes
    Serves10
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientscoconut milk / egg yolks / sugar / ghee

    Ingredients

    • 10 egg yolks
    • 2 cups (400 ml) thick coconut milk
    • 1 1/4 cups (250 g) sugar
    • 1 cup (125 g) maida
    • 1/2 tsp grated nutmeg
    • 1/2 tsp cardamom powder
    • A pinch of salt
    • 1/2 cup (100 g) ghee, melted, plus more for greasing

    Method

    1. Stir the sugar into the coconut milk until it dissolves completely, warming gently if needed. Cool.
    2. Whisk the egg yolks until smooth and pale. Add the coconut milk gradually, whisking.
    3. Sift in the maida with nutmeg, cardamom and salt, whisking until there are no lumps. Strain the batter.
    4. Preheat the oven grill to high (around 220 C) with the rack in the upper third. Grease a 7-inch round tin with ghee.
    5. Pour 1 tbsp melted ghee into the tin and heat under the grill for 2 minutes. Pour in about 1/2 cup batter to form a thin layer. Grill for 8-10 minutes until the top is set and golden brown.
    6. Remove, brush with 1 tsp ghee, pour in another 1/2 cup batter and grill again until golden. Repeat until all the batter is used, about 12-14 layers.
    7. After the final layer, bake for 5 more minutes. Cool completely in the tin, then invert onto a plate and slice thinly.

    Tips

    • Patience is key; each layer must be golden before adding the next.
    • Use thick, fresh coconut milk for the richest flavour.
    • Rotate the tin halfway through each layer for even browning.

    Serve with

    Thin slices on their own or warm with vanilla ice cream.

  • Chicken Xacuti

    Xacuti, pronounced sha-coo-tee, is one of Goa's most complex curries, made by both Hindu and Catholic communities. Its name comes from the Portuguese chacuti, and the dish is famous for its gravy of grated coconut roasted until dark with a large number of whole spices, including poppy seeds, star anise, nutmeg, mace and cloves.

    The flavour is deep, nutty and aromatic, with a warm spiciness rather than sharp heat. The roasted coconut gives a dark brown colour and a slightly smoky richness, while the spices layer sweetness and fragrance. Chicken on the bone is most common, though mutton xacuti is equally popular. Prawn versions exist too.

    Xacuti is a feast dish, served at weddings and festivals and made at home on Sundays. It is eaten with pao, sannas or rice, and like most Goan curries it tastes better the next day. Leftover xacuti is often eaten with bread for breakfast the next morning. Mutton takes longer but is worth it.

    At a glance

    RegionGoa
    CuisineGoan
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time80 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / coconut / poppy seeds / star anise

    Ingredients

    For the marinade

    • 750 g chicken on the bone, curry cut
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp salt

    For the xacuti masala

    • 1 1/2 cups freshly grated coconut
    • 8 dried Kashmiri chillies
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp fennel seeds
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 1 tbsp poppy seeds
    • 6 cloves
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 2 star anise
    • 4 green cardamoms
    • 1/4 nutmeg, grated
    • 2 blades mace
    • 1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds

    For the curry

    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 2 onions, finely chopped
    • 1 tomato, chopped
    • 1 tbsp tamarind pulp
    • 2 cups hot water
    • Salt to taste
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Marinate the chicken with ginger-garlic paste, turmeric and salt for 30 minutes.
    2. Dry roast the whole spices and chillies on low heat for 3-4 minutes until fragrant and slightly darker. Remove.
    3. Roast the coconut in the same pan on medium-low for 8-10 minutes, stirring constantly, until evenly dark golden brown.
    4. Grind the roasted spices and coconut with about 1 cup water to a fine, smooth paste.
    5. Heat oil in a heavy pot on medium. Cook the onions for 8-10 minutes until golden brown. Add tomato and cook for 3 minutes until soft.
    6. Add the chicken and fry on medium-high for 5 minutes until lightly browned.
    7. Add the ground masala and fry for 5 minutes, stirring often, until it darkens and the oil separates.
    8. Pour in hot water, add tamarind and salt, and simmer covered on low for 25 minutes until the chicken is tender and the gravy is thick. Garnish with coriander.

    Tips

    • Roast the coconut slowly and evenly; it gives xacuti its colour and depth.
    • Poppy seeds should be roasted lightly; they burn very fast.
    • If the gravy is too thick, add hot water to adjust.

    Serve with

    Goan pao, sannas or steamed rice.

  • Kombdi Vade

    Kombdi vade is a celebratory meal from the Malvan coast of Maharashtra, made for festivals, family gatherings and Sunday lunch. Kombdi means chicken and vade are soft, puffed breads made from a flour of roasted rice, urad dal and spices, deep fried like puris. The combination is especially popular around Gauri-Ganpati and Shimga, the Konkan Holi.

    The chicken curry is rich and spicy, cooked in a gravy of roasted coconut, onion and Malvani masala, with plenty of oil and whole spices. The vade are crisp outside and soft inside, with a slightly grainy texture and a nutty flavour from the roasted flour, perfect for scooping up the gravy.

    The meal is completed with sliced onions, lemon and sol kadhi. Ready vade flour is sold in Konkan stores, but making it at home is simple if you have time to roast and mill the grains. In Malvan, the meal is served at small family-run restaurants, and visitors to the Konkan coast rarely leave without trying it.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMalvani
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time60 minutes
    Total time100 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientschicken / rice flour / urad dal / coconut

    Ingredients

    For the vade

    • 2 cups vade flour (or 1 1/2 cups rice flour + 1/4 cup urad dal flour + 2 tbsp wheat flour)
    • 1 tsp fennel seeds, crushed
    • 1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds, roasted and crushed
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 cup hot water
    • Oil for deep frying

    For the chicken curry

    • 750 g chicken on the bone, curry cut
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 cup freshly grated coconut
    • 2 onions, sliced
    • 6 garlic cloves
    • 2 tbsp Malvani masala
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • 1/4 cup oil
    • 2 cups hot water
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Marinate the chicken with ginger-garlic paste, turmeric and salt for 30 minutes.
    2. Roast the coconut in a dry pan on medium for 4-5 minutes until golden brown. In 1 tbsp oil, fry the sliced onions until dark brown. Grind both with garlic and a little water to a smooth paste.
    3. Heat the remaining oil in a pot on medium. Add the paste and fry for 6-8 minutes until oil separates.
    4. Add Malvani masala and garam masala and stir for 30 seconds. Add the chicken and fry on medium-high for 5 minutes until coated and lightly browned.
    5. Pour in hot water, bring to a boil, cover and simmer on low for 25 minutes until the chicken is tender and the gravy is medium-thick. Garnish with coriander.
    6. For the vade, mix the flour with fennel, fenugreek, turmeric and salt. Pour hot water over it, mix with a spoon, cover and rest for 15 minutes. Knead into a soft, smooth dough.
    7. Divide into lime-sized balls. Pat each on an oiled plastic sheet into a 4-inch disc about 1/4 inch thick, with a small hole in the centre.
    8. Heat oil to medium-hot and fry the vade one at a time, pressing gently so they puff, for 1-2 minutes per side until golden. Drain and serve hot with the curry.

    Tips

    • Vade dough should be soft; stiff dough gives hard, dense vade.
    • The hole in the centre helps the vade cook evenly and puff.
    • Make the curry first; vade are best fried just before serving.

    Serve with

    Sliced onion, lemon wedges and sol kadhi.