RAG Demo

Tag: Hard to make

  • Ukadiche Modak

    Ukadiche modak are the steamed sweet dumplings offered to Lord Ganesha, said to be his favourite food. During Ganesh Chaturthi, Maharashtrian and Konkani homes make them by the dozen, traditionally twenty-one as the first offering. The name comes from ukad, the cooked rice flour dough that forms the delicate shell.

    Inside is saran, a filling of freshly grated coconut cooked with jaggery, cardamom, nutmeg and sometimes poppy seeds, until sticky and fragrant. The shell is thin, soft and slightly translucent after steaming, pleated into a peak that looks like a closed lotus bud. A spoon of ghee is poured over each modak before eating.

    Shaping takes practice, but moulds are widely available for beginners. Modak are best eaten warm on the day they are made, as the rice shell firms up when it cools. Steaming them on turmeric or banana leaves adds a gentle aroma. Fried modak, made with a wheat flour shell, are a popular alternative in some homes.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMaharashtrian
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time45 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time75 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice flour / fresh coconut / jaggery / ghee

    Ingredients

    For the filling (saran)

    • 2 cups freshly grated coconut
    • 1 cup (180 g) grated jaggery
    • 1 tsp ghee
    • 1/2 tsp cardamom powder
    • A pinch of grated nutmeg
    • 1 tsp poppy seeds, lightly roasted (optional)

    For the dough (ukad)

    • 1 cup fine rice flour (preferably ambemohar or basmati)
    • 1 cup water
    • 1/4 tsp salt
    • 1 tsp ghee
    • Turmeric or banana leaves for steaming (optional)
    • Ghee to serve

    Method

    1. Heat ghee in a heavy pan on medium-low, add coconut and jaggery and stir. The jaggery will melt and the mixture will turn wet.
    2. Cook for 8-10 minutes, stirring often, until the moisture evaporates and the filling looks glossy and comes together. Add cardamom, nutmeg and poppy seeds. Cool.
    3. Bring the water, salt and ghee to a rolling boil in a pan. Lower the heat and add the rice flour all at once, stirring quickly to combine.
    4. Cover and leave on the lowest heat for 2 minutes, then turn off and keep covered for 5 minutes to steam.
    5. Transfer to a plate and, while still hot, knead with a bowl of cold water beside you for dipping your hands. Knead for 4-5 minutes until perfectly smooth and soft. Keep covered with a damp cloth.
    6. Take a lime-sized ball, oil your fingers and press it into a thin cup about 3 inches across, keeping the centre slightly thicker. Pinch the edge into 9-11 small pleats.
    7. Place a spoonful of filling inside, gather the pleats together and press them to a point at the top. Place each finished modak on a damp cloth.
    8. Line a steamer plate with leaves or a damp cloth, arrange the modak, and steam on medium-high for 12-15 minutes until the shells turn slightly glossy and translucent. Serve warm with ghee.

    Tips

    • Knead the dough while it is hot; cold dough cracks when shaped.
    • Use fresh coconut, not desiccated; the moisture keeps the filling soft.
    • Dip modak briefly in cold water before steaming to prevent cracking.

    Serve with

    A spoon of warm ghee poured over each modak.

  • Puran Poli

    Puran poli is the festive sweet bread of Maharashtra, made for Holi, Gudi Padwa, Ganesh Chaturthi and Pola, the bullock festival. Chana dal is cooked with jaggery until it becomes a thick, fragrant paste called puran, which is wrapped in a very soft dough and rolled thin. Karnataka has obbattu, Gujarat has vedmi, but the Maharashtrian poli is known for being paper-thin.

    The dough is made very soft and pliable with plenty of oil, often with maida mixed into wheat flour so it stretches without tearing. Inside, the puran is sweet, smooth and perfumed with cardamom and nutmeg. Each poli is roasted dry on a tawa until speckled and then brushed with ghee.

    It is eaten warm with a generous pour of ghee or with a cup of milk. The dal water is never thrown away: it becomes katachi amti, a thin, spiced dal served alongside. Making puran poli is a family effort and a skill passed down through generations. Leftover polis are often eaten the next morning.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMaharashtrian
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time60 minutes
    Total time100 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientschana dal / jaggery / wheat flour / ghee

    Ingredients

    For the puran

    • 1 cup (200 g) chana dal, soaked 2 hours
    • 3 cups water
    • 1 cup (200 g) grated jaggery
    • 2 tbsp sugar
    • 1/2 tsp cardamom powder
    • 1/4 tsp grated nutmeg
    • 1 tsp ghee

    For the dough

    • 1 cup (120 g) fine whole wheat flour
    • 1/2 cup (60 g) maida
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • A pinch of salt
    • 1/4 cup oil
    • Water as needed

    For rolling and roasting

    • Rice flour for dusting
    • Ghee to serve

    Method

    1. Make the dough: mix flours, turmeric and salt, add water gradually and knead to a very soft, sticky dough. Pour 2 tbsp oil over it and knead for 5 minutes until it absorbs. Add the rest of the oil, cover and rest for at least 1 hour.
    2. Pressure cook the soaked chana dal with 3 cups water for 3-4 whistles until it mashes easily between your fingers but is not mushy.
    3. Drain the dal in a colander for 10 minutes, saving the water for katachi amti.
    4. Put the dal and jaggery in a heavy pan on medium heat. The jaggery will melt and make it loose. Stir continuously for 15-20 minutes until it thickens; it is ready when a spoon stands upright in the centre.
    5. Add sugar, cardamom, nutmeg and ghee. While still hot, pass the mixture through a puran yantra or mash smooth with a masher. Cool completely, then divide into 12 balls.
    6. Oil your hands, take a lemon-sized piece of dough, flatten it into a cup and place a puran ball (about twice the dough's size) inside. Bring the edges up, seal and pinch off excess dough.
    7. Dust generously with rice flour and roll gently, without pressing hard, into a thin 8-inch circle. Rotate often and dust again if it sticks.
    8. Roast on a medium-hot tawa for about 1 minute until light brown spots appear underneath, flip and roast the other side. Do not add ghee while roasting. Brush with ghee and serve warm.

    Tips

    • If the puran is not cooked thick enough, it will ooze out while rolling. Do the spoon test before turning off the heat.
    • A very soft, well-oiled dough is the key to thin polis; rest it for at least an hour.
    • Polis keep for 2-3 days and can be warmed on a tawa.

    Serve with

    A spoon of ghee, warm milk, or katachi amti on the side.

  • Undhiyu

    Undhiyu takes its name from undhu, meaning upside down. In villages around Surat the vegetables were packed into an earthen pot, sealed, turned upside down and buried in a pit with a fire on top. Today it is cooked on a stove, but it remains a winter dish, made when surti papdi, tuvar lilva, purple yam and small brinjals are in season, and especially on Uttarayan, the kite festival in January.

    The flavour comes from a fresh green masala of coriander, green garlic, coconut, ginger, chilli and sesame that is stuffed into the brinjals and potatoes and coats everything else. Methi muthia, fried fenugreek dumplings, go in towards the end and soak up the oil and masala. The result is rich, slightly sweet and full of contrasting textures.

    It is a feast dish, made in large quantities and eaten with puris, shrikhand or jalebi, and kadhi on the side. Many families prepare the muthia a day ahead to break up the work. The recipe below is the Surti style, which is green rather than red. Red, spicier versions are cooked around Bharuch and Ahmedabad.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time60 minutes
    Cook time60 minutes
    Total time120 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientssurti papdi / purple yam / baby brinjal / methi muthia

    Ingredients

    For the methi muthia

    • 1 cup chopped fresh methi
    • 1/2 cup coarse whole wheat flour
    • 1/4 cup besan
    • 1 tsp ginger-chilli paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • Oil for frying

    For the green masala

    • 1 1/2 cups chopped coriander
    • 1 cup chopped green garlic (or 10 garlic cloves)
    • 1/2 cup grated fresh coconut
    • 2 tbsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 2 tbsp white sesame seeds
    • 2 tbsp roasted peanuts, crushed
    • 1 tbsp sugar
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 tsp turmeric
    • 2 tsp coriander-cumin powder
    • 1 1/2 tsp salt

    For the vegetables

    • 250 g surti papdi, stringed
    • 1/2 cup fresh tuvar lilva (pigeon peas)
    • 8 small round brinjals
    • 8 baby potatoes, peeled
    • 200 g purple yam (kand), peeled and cubed
    • 2 small sweet potatoes, cubed
    • 1 raw banana, cut into thick rounds
    • 1/2 cup oil
    • 1 tsp ajwain
    • 1/4 tsp asafoetida
    • 1/2 cup water

    Method

    1. Mix all muthia ingredients except frying oil into a stiff dough without adding water. Shape into 20 small finger-sized logs and deep fry on medium heat for 4-5 minutes until golden and cooked through. Drain.
    2. Combine all the green masala ingredients in a bowl and mix with your hands. Set aside about one-third for stuffing.
    3. Make a deep cross cut in each brinjal and potato, keeping the base intact, and stuff with the reserved masala. Fry the cubes of yam, sweet potato and raw banana lightly in hot oil for 3-4 minutes until the edges are golden; this keeps them from turning mushy.
    4. Heat 1/2 cup oil in a wide heavy pot on medium. Add ajwain and asafoetida, then the papdi and tuvar lilva with half the remaining masala. Stir for 2 minutes.
    5. Layer the stuffed potatoes and brinjals over the beans, then the fried yam, sweet potato and banana. Spread the rest of the masala on top and sprinkle 1/2 cup water around the edges.
    6. Cover tightly and cook on low heat for 30-35 minutes without stirring. Shake the pot gently every 10 minutes to stop sticking.
    7. Check that a knife slides easily through the potato and yam. Add the fried muthia, cover again and cook 5-7 minutes more until they soften slightly. Fold very gently and rest for 10 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Undhiyu should be oily; the oil carries the masala and stops the vegetables from catching. Reduce it only slightly.
    • Do not stir with a spoon once layered; shaking the pot keeps the vegetables whole.
    • If green garlic is out of season, use regular garlic and a handful of spring onion greens.

    Serve with

    Hot puris, shrikhand or jalebi, and a bowl of Gujarati kadhi.

  • Khandvi

    Khandvi, also called patuli or suralichi vadi in Maharashtra, is the most delicate of Gujarati farsan. Gram flour and sour buttermilk are cooked together into a glossy paste, spread paper-thin on a counter or the back of a thali, cut into strips and rolled. Done well, the rolls are soft enough to collapse on the tongue.

    The flavour is mild and tangy from the buttermilk, with a little ginger and green chilli, and the tempering of mustard seeds, sesame and curry leaves adds crunch and aroma. Coconut and coriander on top bring freshness. It is never heavy, which is why it appears at weddings and festive meals alongside richer sweets.

    Khandvi has a reputation for being tricky, and the difficulty lies in judging when the batter is cooked. Undercooked, it will not set; overcooked, it turns lumpy and refuses to spread. The plate test in step five takes the guesswork away. Once you have the knack, a whole batch takes under half an hour from bowl to plate.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time30 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbesan / buttermilk / sesame seeds / coconut

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1/2 cup (50 g) besan
    • 1/2 cup sour curd whisked with 1 cup water (1 1/2 cups buttermilk)
    • 1 tsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • A pinch of asafoetida

    For the tempering

    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp white sesame seeds
    • 8 curry leaves
    • 1 green chilli, finely chopped
    • 2 tbsp grated fresh coconut
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Lightly grease the back of two large steel thalis or a clean kitchen counter, and keep a spatula ready.
    2. Whisk the besan, buttermilk, ginger-chilli paste, turmeric, salt and asafoetida in a heavy non-stick pan until completely smooth with no lumps.
    3. Place the pan on medium-low heat and stir continuously with a whisk. After 4-5 minutes it will start thickening; switch to a spatula and keep stirring, scraping the sides.
    4. Continue for another 6-8 minutes. The mixture will turn thick, glossy and leave the sides of the pan as one mass.
    5. Test: spread a spoonful thinly on a greased plate and wait 30 seconds. If it peels and rolls cleanly, it is ready. If it sticks, cook 1-2 minutes more and test again.
    6. Working fast while hot, pour a portion onto the greased surface and spread it thin and even with the spatula in long strokes. Repeat with the rest.
    7. Let it set for 5 minutes. Cut into strips 2 inches wide and roll each strip tightly from one end. Arrange on a plate seam side down.
    8. Heat oil, crackle mustard seeds, add sesame, curry leaves and chilli for 20 seconds. Pour over the rolls and garnish with coconut and coriander.

    Tips

    • Use a 1:3 ratio of besan to buttermilk by volume; this is the proportion that sets reliably.
    • Spreading must be done the moment it comes off the heat. As it cools it thickens and tears.
    • Pressure-cooker method: cook the batter in a bowl for 3 whistles, then whisk smooth and spread.

    Serve with

    Eaten as is, or with a thin green chutney as part of a farsan plate.

  • Ghevar

    Ghevar is the monsoon sweet of Rajasthan, made in the weeks around Teej and Raksha Bandhan and rarely seen the rest of the year. Halwais in Jaipur and Ajmer pour a thin ghee-and-flour batter in streams into a deep ring mould set in hot ghee, building up a lacy, porous disc. Brides traditionally receive ghevar from their parents during Sawan, which keeps the sweet tied to the season.

    The plain disc is crisp, airy and nearly flavourless, a sponge for what comes next. Dipped in sugar syrup it becomes sweet and crunchy; topped with thickened rabri it turns rich and soft at the centre while keeping crunch at the edges. Malai ghevar, the most popular version, carries a thick layer of rabri, saffron and slivered nuts.

    Making it at home is about technique rather than fancy equipment. A small heavy pan, a steel ring or a narrow tall vessel, ice-cold batter and very hot ghee are enough. The first disc is usually a practice run, so make extra batter. Sweet shops sell it by the kilo in August, and a plain disc bought from them can be finished at home with fresh rabri.

    At a glance

    RegionRajasthan
    CuisineRajasthani
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time45 minutes
    Total time65 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientsmaida / ghee / sugar / milk

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1/4 cup (50 g) ghee, solid but soft
    • 4-5 ice cubes
    • 1 cup (125 g) maida
    • 1/4 cup cold milk
    • About 1 1/2 cups ice-cold water
    • 1 tsp lemon juice

    For the syrup

    • 1 cup sugar
    • 1/2 cup water
    • 4 green cardamoms, crushed

    For the topping

    • 1 litre full-fat milk, reduced to rabri with 3 tbsp sugar
    • A pinch of saffron soaked in 1 tbsp warm milk
    • 2 tbsp slivered almonds and pistachios

    To fry

    • About 500 g ghee

    Method

    1. Put the ghee and ice cubes in a bowl and rub together with your palm for 4-5 minutes until the ghee turns white and creamy. Remove any remaining ice.
    2. Add the maida in two parts with the cold milk, whisking until smooth. Gradually whisk in ice-cold water until the batter is very thin, like buttermilk. Add the lemon juice. Keep the bowl over ice.
    3. Make the syrup: boil sugar, water and cardamom for 6-7 minutes to a one-string consistency. Keep warm.
    4. Heat ghee in a deep, narrow pan or in a pan holding a 6-inch steel ring until it is very hot, filling it to about 3 inches deep. A drop of batter should sizzle hard and rise instantly.
    5. Pour 2 tbsp batter in a thin stream from a height of about a foot into the centre. It will froth violently. Wait until the froth settles, about 15-20 seconds, then pour the next stream into the centre again.
    6. Repeat 6-8 times, always into the centre, so a hole forms in the middle and the disc builds up in lacy layers. Cook on medium-high for 2-3 more minutes, ladling hot ghee over the centre, until golden and firm.
    7. Lift out the disc with a skewer through the centre hole and drain upright for a few minutes. Make the remaining discs the same way.
    8. Just before serving, dip each ghevar in warm syrup for a few seconds or pour syrup over it. Spread rabri on top, drizzle saffron milk and scatter nuts.

    Tips

    • The batter must stay ice-cold and the ghee very hot; that temperature shock is what produces the honeycomb.
    • If the batter stops forming lace and just sinks, it has become thick. Whisk in a little more cold water.
    • Plain fried discs keep for a week in an airtight tin; add syrup and rabri only on the day.

    Serve with

    Served on its own, cut into wedges, ideally with chilled rabri on the side.

  • Pyaaz Kachori

    Pyaaz kachori belongs to Jodhpur, where sweet shops near the clock tower fry them from early morning and sell out before lunch. Unlike the dal kachori of Kota or the hing kachori of Delhi, the filling here is onion cooked down with besan, fennel and crushed coriander until it turns jammy. It is a snack built for travel and for heat, keeping well for a day because the fat in the dough and the dry filling resist going soggy.

    A good one is round, puffed and blistered, with a shell that shatters in thin layers rather than chewing like a puri. Inside, the onions are soft, sweet and sharp with green chilli and dried mango powder. The secret is patience at the stove: the kachoris go into barely warm oil and cook for twenty minutes or more, which is what builds that crackling, layered crust.

    In Rajasthan they are eaten as breakfast or tea-time food, slit open and spooned with saunth (sweet tamarind chutney) and a thin green chutney. At weddings they appear on the snack counter, and many families fry a batch for train journeys. They reheat well in an oven, which makes them practical for guests.

    At a glance

    RegionRajasthan
    CuisineRajasthani
    DietVegan
    CourseSnack
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time90 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientsmaida / onion / besan / fennel seeds

    Ingredients

    For the dough

    • 2 cups (250 g) maida
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1/3 cup (70 ml) oil or melted ghee, for moyan
    • About 1/2 cup cold water

    For the filling

    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tbsp fennel seeds, coarsely crushed
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds, coarsely crushed
    • 1/4 tsp asafoetida
    • 3 large onions (about 400 g), finely chopped
    • 2 green chillies and 1 inch ginger, finely chopped
    • 1 boiled potato, mashed
    • 4 tbsp besan
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp amchur
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    To fry

    • Oil for deep frying

    Method

    1. Rub the oil into the maida and salt with your fingertips for 3-4 minutes, until a fistful pressed together holds its shape like wet sand. This moyan is what makes the shell flaky.
    2. Add cold water a little at a time and bring together into a soft but not sticky dough without kneading hard. Cover with a damp cloth and rest for 30 minutes.
    3. For the filling, heat oil on medium, add cumin, fennel and coriander and let them sizzle for 20 seconds. Add asafoetida, then the onions, ginger and chillies.
    4. Cook the onions on medium for 6-8 minutes until translucent and just turning light gold at the edges, not brown. Lower the heat and add the besan; roast, stirring, for 3-4 minutes until it smells nutty.
    5. Add the powdered spices, salt and mashed potato and mix until the filling holds together in a dry lump. Stir in coriander and cool completely before using.
    6. Divide the dough into 12 balls and the filling into 12 portions. Flatten a ball into a 3-inch disc with thinner edges, place filling in the centre, pleat the edges up and pinch closed. Press gently into a 3-inch round, seam side down.
    7. Heat oil until just warm: a pinch of dough should rise slowly after 3-4 seconds. Slide in 4-5 kachoris and keep the flame at its lowest.
    8. After 8-10 minutes they will float and puff. Flip and keep frying on low, turning occasionally, for another 12-15 minutes until deep golden and crisp all over. Raise the heat for the last minute, then drain on a rack.

    Tips

    • If the oil is too hot, the shell browns fast and stays raw and chewy inside. Low heat for the full time is non-negotiable.
    • The filling must be dry and cold; wet filling steams the dough from inside and causes the kachori to burst in oil.
    • Leave one side slightly thicker when sealing and keep the sealed side down while flattening so it does not open.

    Serve with

    Sweet saunth chutney and green coriander-mint chutney, with masala chai.

  • Mawa Bati

    Mawa bati is a speciality of Malwa and Nimar in Madhya Pradesh, seen at weddings and festival meals and in sweet shops around Indore and Ujjain. It resembles a large gulab jamun or kala jamun, but the dough is denser with mawa and each ball carries a hidden stuffing of dry fruits and cardamom.

    The baties are fried slowly over low heat until they turn a deep brown, almost black on the outside, then soaked in syrup. The outer layer is slightly firm and caramelised, the inside soft and grainy with khoya, and the centre crunchy with nuts. It is very rich, so one or two make a complete dessert.

    At a glance

    RegionMadhya Pradesh
    CuisineMalwa
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time40 minutes
    Total time70 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientskhoya / maida / sugar / dry fruits

    Ingredients

    For the dough

    • 250 g soft khoya (mawa), grated
    • 50 g chhena or paneer, crumbled
    • 3 tbsp maida
    • 1 tbsp fine semolina
    • 1/4 tsp baking soda
    • 1 tbsp milk, if needed
    • Ghee or oil for frying

    For the stuffing

    • 2 tbsp chopped almonds and pistachios
    • 1 tbsp chopped cashews
    • 1 tsp raisins
    • 1/4 tsp green cardamom powder
    • A few saffron strands
    • 1 tsp powdered sugar

    For the syrup

    • 2 cups sugar
    • 1 1/2 cups water
    • 4 green cardamoms, crushed
    • 1 tsp rose water

    Method

    1. Boil the sugar and water with cardamom for 6-7 minutes until slightly sticky but not at one-string consistency. Add rose water and keep warm.
    2. Mix the stuffing ingredients in a small bowl.
    3. Mash the khoya and chhena together with the heel of your hand for 5 minutes until smooth. Add maida, semolina and baking soda and knead gently into a soft, crack-free dough, adding a little milk if needed.
    4. Divide the dough into 12 portions. Flatten each in your palm, place 1/2 tsp stuffing in the centre, seal and roll into a smooth ball or oval with no cracks.
    5. Heat ghee in a kadhai on low heat; it should be warm, not hot. Add the balls and fry very slowly, moving them constantly, for 12-15 minutes until deep dark brown all over.
    6. Lift the baties out and drop them into the warm syrup. Soak for at least 2 hours, ideally longer.
    7. Serve warm or at room temperature, halved to show the stuffing.

    Tips

    • Cracks in the balls will open in the oil – knead until the dough is completely smooth.
    • Frying slowly on low heat is essential; high heat browns the outside while the centre stays raw.
    • The syrup should be warm, not boiling, when the baties go in, or they shrink.

    Serve with

    Warm, with a spoon of syrup, after a dal bafla meal.

  • Sel Roti

    Sel roti is the festive bread of Nepali-speaking communities in Sikkim, Darjeeling and Nepal, made in large quantities for Tihar and Dashain and for weddings. Families gather early in the morning to make them, and they are shared with neighbours and relatives and kept for days as a snack. Many households still keep the batter recipe by feel rather than measure.

    Rice soaked overnight is ground with sugar, ghee and mashed banana into a thick batter, then poured into hot oil in a large ring by hand. The roti puffs and browns, crisp at the edges and soft, spongy and chewy within, faintly sweet with the aroma of ghee and cardamom. It is eaten with tea, with aloo dum or with yogurt.

    At a glance

    RegionSikkim
    CuisineSikkimese
    DietVegetarian
    CourseBread
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time60 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / sugar / ghee / banana

    Ingredients

    • 2 cups raw rice (sona masoori or local rice), soaked overnight
    • 1/2 cup sugar
    • 1 ripe banana, mashed
    • 3 tbsp ghee, melted
    • 1/2 tsp green cardamom powder
    • 1/2 cup milk or water, as needed
    • A pinch of baking soda (optional)
    • Oil for deep frying

    Method

    1. Drain the soaked rice well and spread it on a cloth for 15 minutes to remove excess water.
    2. Grind the rice with sugar and banana, adding milk a little at a time, to a fine, thick batter that flows slowly like thick pancake batter. It should not feel gritty when rubbed between fingers.
    3. Stir in the melted ghee and cardamom. Cover and rest for 1-2 hours at room temperature. Add the baking soda just before frying if using.
    4. Heat the oil in a deep kadhai on medium heat until a drop of batter rises immediately with steady bubbles.
    5. Take a handful of batter in your fist, or fill a squeeze bottle, and pour it into the oil in a large ring about 12 cm across, closing the circle where you started.
    6. Fry for about 1 minute until the underside is golden, then flip with a long stick or skewer and fry another minute until both sides are reddish-golden.
    7. Lift out with the skewer through the centre and drain on a rack. Fry the rest, stirring the batter between batches.

    Tips

    • If the ring breaks up in the oil, the batter is too thin – add a spoon of rice flour.
    • Practise the ring shape on a plate with a squeeze bottle before trying it in the oil.
    • Keep the oil at a steady medium; too hot and the outside browns while the inside stays raw.

    Serve with

    Milky tea, aloo dum or thick yogurt.

  • Kolkata Chicken Biryani

    Kolkata biryani descends from the Awadhi kitchen of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, who was exiled from Lucknow to Metiabruz in Kolkata in 1856 and brought his cooks with him. The famous potato is said to have entered the pot there, and today it is non-negotiable: Kolkatans will judge a biryani by its aloo as much as by its meat.

    Compared with Hyderabadi or Malabar biryanis, the Kolkata style is subtle. There is little chilli, the rice is long-grain and separate, and the aroma comes from mace, nutmeg, kewra water, rose water, saffron and ghee. A boiled egg is tucked inside each serving. Arsalan, Aminia and Royal Indian Hotel are the names locals argue over.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseRice
    Prep time45 minutes
    Cook time75 minutes
    Total time120 minutes
    Serves5
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbasmati rice / chicken / potato / egg / yogurt

    Ingredients

    For the chicken

    • 750 g chicken, cut into 8 large pieces with bone
    • 1 cup thick curd
    • 1 tbsp ginger paste
    • 1 tbsp garlic paste
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp white pepper powder
    • 1/2 tsp mace powder
    • 1/4 tsp nutmeg powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/2 cup fried onions (birista)

    For the rice

    • 500 g aged basmati rice, soaked 30 minutes
    • 2 bay leaves
    • 4 green cardamoms
    • 4 cloves
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 1 star anise
    • 1 tbsp salt
    • Juice of 1/2 lemon

    For layering

    • 4 medium potatoes, peeled and halved
    • 4 boiled eggs, peeled
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 4 tbsp ghee
    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 1/2 cup warm milk with a pinch of saffron
    • 1 tsp kewra water
    • 1 tsp rose water
    • 1/2 tsp biryani masala or garam masala
    • 1/4 cup fried onions
    • 1 tbsp sugar (optional, traditional)

    Method

    1. Marinate the chicken with all the marinade ingredients for at least 2 hours.
    2. Rub potatoes and eggs with turmeric and salt. Prick the potatoes with a fork and fry both in the oil on medium heat until golden, about 8 minutes for the potatoes and 2 minutes for the eggs. Set aside.
    3. In the same pan add 2 tbsp ghee, then the chicken with its marinade. Cook on medium-high heat for 5 minutes, then cover and cook on low for 15-20 minutes until the chicken is about 80 percent done and the gravy is thick. Add the fried potatoes for the last 10 minutes.
    4. Bring 3 litres of water to a rolling boil with the whole spices, salt and lemon juice. Add the drained rice and cook for 5-6 minutes until about 70 percent done – a grain should break with a firm white core. Drain immediately.
    5. In a heavy pot, spread half the chicken, potatoes and gravy. Layer half the rice over it. Add the remaining chicken, potatoes and eggs, then the rest of the rice.
    6. Drizzle the saffron milk, kewra water, rose water, remaining ghee and sprinkle the biryani masala, sugar and fried onions over the top.
    7. Seal the pot with a tight lid and atta dough, or a layer of foil under the lid. Cook on high heat for 3 minutes, then place on a hot tawa and cook on the lowest heat for 25 minutes (dum).
    8. Turn off the heat and leave sealed for 10 minutes. Open, gently fold from the sides with a flat spoon, and serve each plate with a piece of chicken, a potato and an egg.

    Tips

    • Prick and pre-fry the potatoes; raw potatoes will not cook through during dum.
    • Use a light hand with kewra and rose water – more than a teaspoon each makes the biryani taste soapy.
    • Aged basmati absorbs less water and stays separate; new-crop rice tends to break.

    Serve with

    Chicken chaap or mutton rezala, with a cool raita and sliced onions.

  • Rasgulla

    Rasgulla is the sweet most associated with Bengal, and Kolkata confectioner Nobin Chandra Das is credited with creating the spongy version in 1868 in Bagbazar. Odisha has its own older tradition of rasagola linked to the Jagannath temple in Puri, and both states received GI tags for their versions. The Bengali style is whiter, springier and soaked in a thin syrup.

    A good rasgulla squeezes like a sponge and springs back, releasing syrup with every bite. The whole secret lies in the chhena: it must be made from full-cream cow milk, drained but still moist, and kneaded until perfectly smooth so the balls do not crack in the boiling syrup. They are served chilled or at room temperature, often in an earthen bhaar.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time65 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmilk / sugar / lemon juice

    Ingredients

    For the chhena

    • 1 litre full-cream cow milk
    • 2 tbsp lemon juice mixed with 2 tbsp water
    • 2 cups ice-cold water

    For the syrup

    • 1 cup sugar
    • 4 cups water
    • 2 green cardamoms, lightly crushed (optional)
    • 1 tsp rose water (optional)

    Method

    1. Bring the milk to a boil in a heavy pan. Turn off the heat, wait 1 minute, then add the diluted lemon juice a spoon at a time, stirring gently, until the milk splits into white curds and clear greenish whey.
    2. Immediately add the ice-cold water to stop the curds cooking further. Pour through a muslin cloth, rinse under running water to remove the lemon taste, and squeeze lightly.
    3. Hang the chhena for 30-40 minutes so it is drained but still moist; it should hold together when pressed but not drip water.
    4. Transfer to a plate and knead with the heel of your palm for 8-10 minutes until completely smooth and your palm feels slightly greasy. Divide into 12-14 small balls, rolling each between your palms until there are no cracks.
    5. In a wide pressure cooker or deep pan, boil the sugar and water with the cardamom on high heat until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is rolling.
    6. Drop the balls into the boiling syrup. Cover and cook on high heat for 15 minutes in an open pan, or for 1 whistle and 5 minutes on low in a pressure cooker. The balls will double in size.
    7. Turn off the heat. If using an open pan, sprinkle a few spoons of cold water over the syrup after the first 5 minutes of boiling to keep it thin. Let the rasgullas cool in the syrup, add rose water, and chill for at least 4 hours.

    Tips

    • If the balls crack in the syrup, the chhena was either too dry or not kneaded enough; if they dissolve, it was too wet.
    • The syrup must stay thin and at a rolling boil the entire time – thick syrup gives hard, chewy rasgullas.
    • Use cow milk; buffalo milk chhena is fattier and makes denser, less spongy balls.

    Serve with

    Chilled, two to a bowl with a little syrup, at the end of a meal.