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Tag: Medium spice

  • Sattu Paratha

    Sattu, flour made from roasted chickpeas, is the protein staple of Bihar and eastern Uttar Pradesh. Farmers and labourers carry it to the fields mixed with water and salt, and in homes it becomes litti, sharbat and these stuffed parathas. Cheap, filling and shelf-stable, it is one of the oldest convenience foods in India.

    The filling is dry, savoury and sharp: sattu mixed with raw onion, garlic, green chilli, ajwain, kalonji, lemon and mustard oil, often with a spoon of masala from the mango pickle jar. Once rolled inside a wheat dough and cooked on a tawa with ghee, it gives a nutty, smoky paratha that keeps you going until lunch.

    At a glance

    RegionBihar
    CuisineBihari
    DietVegetarian
    CourseBreakfast
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientssattu / whole wheat flour / onion / mustard oil

    Ingredients

    For the dough

    • 2 cups whole wheat flour (atta)
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1 tsp oil
    • About 3/4 cup water

    For the filling

    • 1 cup sattu (roasted gram flour)
    • 1 small onion, very finely chopped
    • 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
    • 1 inch ginger, grated
    • 2 green chillies, finely chopped
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • 1/2 tsp kalonji
    • 1 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 tbsp mango pickle masala (optional)
    • Salt to taste
    • 2-3 tbsp water if needed

    For cooking

    • Ghee or oil, as needed

    Method

    1. Knead the atta with salt, oil and water into a soft, smooth dough. Cover and rest for 20 minutes.
    2. Mix all the filling ingredients in a bowl. Squeeze with your hand – the filling should hold together when pressed but crumble when poked. Sprinkle 1-2 tbsp water if it is too dry.
    3. Divide the dough into 8 balls and the filling into 8 portions.
    4. Roll a ball into a 10 cm disc, place a portion of filling in the centre, bring the edges together and pinch to seal. Flatten gently.
    5. Dust with flour and roll carefully into an 18 cm paratha, applying light, even pressure so the filling does not break through.
    6. Cook on a hot tawa over medium heat for 1 minute until small bubbles appear, flip and cook another minute.
    7. Spread ghee on both sides and cook, pressing with a spatula, until both sides have golden-brown spots, about 1 minute per side. Repeat with the rest.

    Tips

    • Chop the onion very finely; large pieces tear the paratha while rolling.
    • If the filling is too dry the paratha tastes powdery, too wet and it leaks – aim for damp sand.
    • Wrap cooked parathas in a cloth to keep them soft if packing for travel.

    Serve with

    Curd, mango pickle and aloo chokha or a hot cup of tea.

  • Kolkata Kathi Roll

    The kathi roll traces back to Nizam's restaurant near New Market in Kolkata in the 1930s, where kebabs on bamboo skewers – kathi – were wrapped in paratha so busy office workers could eat on the go. Today the city has hundreds of roll counters, and 'egg chicken roll' is ordered as casually as tea.

    A proper Kolkata roll uses a maida paratha cooked on a tawa with a beaten egg pressed onto one side, then filled with charred, tangy kebab pieces, raw onion, green chilli and a squeeze of lime. There is no mayonnaise and very little sauce; the flavour comes from the smoky meat, the flaky, slightly oily paratha and the sharp crunch of onion.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseStreet food
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time60 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientschicken / maida / egg / onion

    Ingredients

    For the chicken kebab

    • 400 g boneless chicken thigh, cut into 2 cm pieces
    • 3 tbsp thick curd
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1 1/2 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • 1/2 tsp chaat masala
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 tbsp mustard oil
    • Salt to taste

    For the paratha

    • 2 cups maida
    • 1 tbsp oil plus extra for cooking
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp sugar
    • Water to knead
    • 4 eggs

    For the filling

    • 2 onions, thinly sliced
    • 4 green chillies, finely chopped
    • 2 limes, cut into wedges
    • Chaat masala to sprinkle
    • Tomato ketchup (optional)

    Method

    1. Mix the chicken with all the kebab ingredients and marinate for at least 1 hour.
    2. Knead the maida with oil, salt, sugar and enough water into a soft dough. Cover and rest for 30 minutes.
    3. Thread the chicken onto skewers and grill over a gas flame or under a hot grill for 8-10 minutes, turning, until cooked and charred at the edges. Alternatively, sear on a very hot tawa with a little oil.
    4. Divide the dough into 4 balls. Roll each into a thin 20 cm circle, brush with oil, fold into pleats like a fan, coil it into a spiral and roll out again to 18 cm. This gives the flaky layers.
    5. Cook a paratha on a medium-hot tawa for 1 minute per side with a little oil until light golden spots appear.
    6. Beat an egg with a pinch of salt and pour it onto the tawa. Immediately place the paratha on top of the egg and press gently. Cook for 1 minute until the egg sets and sticks to the paratha, then flip and cook 30 seconds.
    7. Place the paratha egg-side up. Line the centre with chicken pieces, onions and green chillies, sprinkle chaat masala and squeeze lime over it. Roll up tightly, wrap the bottom half in paper and serve immediately.

    Tips

    • The paratha should be crisp outside and soft inside – keep the tawa at medium, not high, so it cooks through without burning.
    • Soak the sliced onions in iced water for 10 minutes and drain well for extra crunch.
    • For a mutton roll, use the same marinade with boneless mutton pieces pressure-cooked first, then charred.

    Serve with

    Eat straight away, wrapped in paper, with an extra lime wedge.

  • Kosha Mangsho

    Kosha mangsho means mutton that has been 'koshano' – stirred and seared slowly in its own masala until the oil separates and the meat turns deep brown. Kolkata's Golbari, a small eatery in Shyambazar, made it famous, and in many Bengali homes it is still the centrepiece of a Sunday lunch or a festive meal after Durga Puja.

    The gravy is thick, almost dry, and dark from long bhuna rather than from food colour. Mustard oil, whole garam masala, a touch of sugar to caramelise the onions, and plenty of ginger and garlic give it a rich, slightly sweet and pungent character. Potatoes are often added for those who like them, and the dish tastes even better the next day.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time105 minutes
    Total time125 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / onion / yogurt / mustard oil

    Ingredients

    For the marinade

    • 1 kg mutton (curry cut, with bone)
    • 1/2 cup thick curd
    • 1 tbsp ginger paste
    • 1 tbsp garlic paste
    • 1 tsp turmeric powder
    • 2 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 2 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1 tsp salt

    For cooking

    • 5 tbsp mustard oil
    • 2 bay leaves
    • 4 green cardamoms
    • 4 cloves
    • 2 inch cinnamon stick
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 4 large onions, finely sliced
    • 2 medium potatoes, halved (optional)
    • 1 tsp cumin powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 4 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tsp garam masala powder
    • 1 tbsp ghee
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Mix the mutton with all the marinade ingredients and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or overnight.
    2. If using potatoes, rub them with salt and turmeric and fry in 1 tbsp mustard oil until golden on all sides. Set aside.
    3. Heat the remaining mustard oil in a heavy pot until smoking, then lower to medium. Add bay leaves, cardamom, cloves and cinnamon, then the sugar. Let the sugar melt and caramelise for 20-30 seconds.
    4. Add the sliced onions and fry on medium heat for 15-18 minutes, stirring often, until they are deep golden brown.
    5. Add the marinated mutton with all the marinade. Raise the heat to high for 5 minutes, stirring constantly, then lower to medium-low.
    6. Add cumin powder, coriander powder and green chillies. Cover and cook, opening every 5-7 minutes to stir and scrape the bottom, for about 45 minutes. The meat releases its own water; add 2-3 tbsp hot water only if it sticks.
    7. Once the masala turns dark brown and the oil floats at the edges, add the fried potatoes and 1/2 cup hot water. Cover and cook on low for another 30-40 minutes until the mutton is tender and the potatoes are cooked through.
    8. Uncover and keep stirring on medium heat for 5 minutes until the gravy is thick and clinging. Finish with garam masala and ghee, rest for 10 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Use meat from the shoulder or a mix with some fat and bone – lean leg pieces turn dry in the long bhuna.
    • To save time, pressure cook after step 6 for 3-4 whistles, then open and dry off the gravy on high heat.
    • The colour should come from patient browning of onions and meat; resist adding more chilli powder to darken it.

    Serve with

    Luchi, basanti pulao or plain steamed rice, with sliced onion and green chilli.

  • Machher Jhol

    Machher jhol is the everyday fish curry of Bengal, eaten across Kolkata and village homes alike, and the phrase maach-bhaat, fish and rice, sums up Bengali identity for many people. Jhol means a thin, light gravy, as opposed to the richer kalia or the mustard-heavy shorshe. It is typically made with rohu or katla, the freshwater carp of Bengal's ponds and rivers.

    The fish is rubbed with turmeric and salt, fried in mustard oil until golden, then simmered with potatoes and sometimes cauliflower or brinjal in a broth spiced with cumin, ginger and green chillies, tempered with kalo jeere (nigella). It is light, warming and fragrant, the sort of meal cooked for someone recovering from illness, and always eaten with steamed rice.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrohu fish / potato / mustard oil / turmeric / cumin

    Ingredients

    For the fish

    • 6 pieces rohu or katla (about 500 g), steaks with skin
    • 3/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 3/4 tsp salt
    • 4 tbsp mustard oil

    For the jhol

    • 1/2 tsp kalo jeere (nigella seeds)
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 2 medium potatoes, cut into long wedges
    • 1 small tomato, chopped (optional)
    • 1 tbsp ginger paste
    • 1.5 tsp cumin powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1/2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp salt, or to taste
    • 1/2 tsp sugar
    • 2 cups hot water
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Rub the fish with turmeric and salt and set aside for 10 minutes.
    2. Heat the mustard oil in a kadai on high heat until it just begins to smoke, then lower the heat to medium. Fry the fish in batches for 2-3 minutes per side until golden. Do not overcook; it will cook more in the jhol. Remove.
    3. In the same oil fry the potato wedges with a pinch of turmeric and salt for 4-5 minutes until lightly golden on the edges. Remove.
    4. Add kalo jeere and green chillies to the oil and let them sizzle for 10 seconds.
    5. Mix ginger paste, cumin, coriander, turmeric and chilli powder with 3 tbsp water to a paste and add to the kadai. Fry on medium-low heat for 2-3 minutes, adding a splash of water if it sticks, until oil separates. Add tomato if using and cook until soft.
    6. Return the potatoes, add salt, sugar and 2 cups hot water. Cover and simmer for 8-10 minutes until the potatoes are tender.
    7. Slide in the fried fish and simmer gently, uncovered, for 4-5 minutes so the fish absorbs the broth. The gravy should stay thin.
    8. Finish with coriander leaves and serve hot.

    Tips

    • Heat mustard oil to smoking point first to take away its raw pungency.
    • Add hot water, not cold, so the fish stays tender.
    • In summer, many Bengali homes add sliced patol (pointed gourd) or brinjal along with the potatoes.

    Serve with

    Steamed rice, a wedge of gondhoraj lebu (lime) and a green chilli.

  • Ulava Charu

    Ulava charu is an old, rustic dish from the Krishna and Guntur districts of Andhra Pradesh, made from horse gram, a hardy lentil grown in dry areas. Traditionally the horse gram was boiled for hours and the cooking liquid strained off, then simmered down with tamarind and spices. It is believed to warm the body and was popular in winter, and it has since become a speciality of upscale Andhra restaurants.

    The charu is dark brown, thick and glossy, with an earthy, nutty, slightly smoky flavour balanced by the sourness of tamarind. It is mixed with hot rice and finished with a spoon of fresh cream or butter, which mellows the tang. Some people eat it like a soup. It is also sold in jars at some Andhra sweet and pickle shops.

    At a glance

    RegionAndhra Pradesh
    CuisineAndhra
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSoup
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time90 minutes
    Total time105 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientshorse gram / tamarind / onion / garlic / cream

    Ingredients

    For the horse gram stock

    • 1 cup horse gram (ulavalu), soaked overnight
    • 6 cups water
    • 1/2 tsp salt

    For the charu

    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 2 dry red chillies
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
    • 6 garlic cloves, crushed
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp cumin powder
    • lemon-sized tamarind, soaked in 1 cup water
    • 1 tsp grated jaggery
    • salt to taste

    To serve

    • fresh cream or white butter
    • finely chopped onion

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the soaked horse gram with salt and 6 cups water for 10-12 whistles on medium heat, or simmer in an open pot for 2-3 hours, until very soft.
    2. Strain the cooking liquid into a bowl, pressing the beans lightly. Keep the cooked horse gram for a sundal or salad. Grind 2-3 tbsp of the cooked beans with a little stock and add to the liquid for body.
    3. Squeeze and strain the tamarind to get thick extract.
    4. Heat oil in a heavy pan. Splutter mustard seeds, then add cumin, fenugreek and red chillies. Add curry leaves, onion, garlic and green chillies and fry on medium heat for 5 minutes until golden.
    5. Add turmeric, chilli powder, coriander and cumin powder and fry for 30 seconds.
    6. Pour in the horse gram stock and tamarind extract, add jaggery and salt, and bring to a boil.
    7. Simmer uncovered on low heat for 30-40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it reduces to a thick, dark, glossy consistency that coats the back of a spoon.
    8. Serve hot over rice, topped with a spoon of cream or butter and chopped onion.

    Tips

    • Long, slow reduction is what develops the deep colour and flavour; do not rush it.
    • The charu keeps well for 3-4 days in the fridge and thickens further.
    • Horse gram must be well soaked and fully cooked; it is a very hard lentil.

    Serve with

    Hot rice with fresh cream and onions, or as a soup with a dollop of butter.

  • Tomato Pappu

    Pappu, the Telugu word for dal, appears on the table every single day in Andhra homes, and tomato pappu is probably the most common of all. Pappu annam with ghee, dal rice, is the first solid food for many Telugu children and remains a comfort meal for adults. It is simple and fast, and every home makes it a little differently.

    Toor dal is cooked with tomatoes, onion and green chillies until soft, then mashed to a thick, creamy consistency. The tomatoes give a gentle sourness, a little tamarind is added if they are mild, and the tempering of mustard, cumin, garlic and red chillies brings it alive. It is eaten with rice and ghee, with an Andhra pickle on the side.

    At a glance

    RegionAndhra Pradesh
    CuisineAndhra
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time35 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientstoor dal / tomato / green chillies / garlic

    Ingredients

    For the dal

    • 3/4 cup toor dal, washed
    • 3 ripe tomatoes, chopped
    • 1 small onion, chopped
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2.5 cups water
    • 1 tsp tamarind pulp (only if tomatoes are mild)

    For the tadka

    • 1 tbsp ghee
    • 1 tsp oil
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 2 dry red chillies, broken
    • 6 garlic cloves, crushed
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 1/4 tsp asafoetida
    • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Put the dal, tomatoes, onion, green chillies, turmeric and water in a pressure cooker. Cook for 4 whistles on medium heat, until the dal is very soft.
    2. Let the pressure drop naturally. Add salt and tamarind if using, and mash the dal with a wooden pappu gutti or whisk until smooth, with the tomatoes broken down.
    3. Return the cooker to the stove and simmer for 3-4 minutes on low heat. Add hot water if it is too thick; it should be pourable but creamy.
    4. For the tadka, heat ghee and oil in a small pan. Add mustard seeds and let them splutter, then add cumin and red chillies.
    5. Add the garlic and fry on medium heat until golden, about 1 minute. Add curry leaves and asafoetida, switch off the heat and stir in the chilli powder.
    6. Pour the tadka over the dal immediately, cover for a minute to trap the aroma, then stir in coriander and serve.

    Tips

    • Use very ripe red tomatoes for the best colour and tang.
    • Mashing well is important; pappu should be smooth and creamy, not soupy.
    • Adding chilli powder off the heat keeps it bright red without burning.

    Serve with

    Hot rice with ghee, avakaya or gongura pickle, and appadam.

  • Bagara Baingan

    Bagara baingan is a Hyderabadi dish from the Nizam's kitchens, served at weddings and dawats alongside biryani and mirchi ka salan. Bagar refers to the tempering, and baingan to the small brinjals that are slit, fried and cooked in a thick sauce of roasted peanuts, sesame and dry coconut, soured with tamarind.

    The gravy is nutty, tangy, slightly sweet and spicy, with a glossy layer of oil on top. The brinjals become soft and creamy, soaking up the gravy. While the base is similar to mirchi ka salan, bagara baingan is richer and thicker. It is eaten with biryani, bagara khana (spiced rice) or roti.

    At a glance

    RegionTelangana
    CuisineHyderabadi
    DietVegan
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbaby brinjals / peanuts / sesame seeds / dry coconut / tamarind

    Ingredients

    For the masala paste

    • 1/4 cup raw peanuts
    • 2 tbsp white sesame seeds
    • 3 tbsp dry coconut, grated
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 large onion, sliced
    • 1 tbsp oil

    For the curry

    • 10 small purple brinjals (about 400 g), slit in a cross from the bottom with stem intact
    • 5 tbsp oil
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/4 tsp nigella seeds
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1.5 tsp red chilli powder
    • 3 tbsp thick tamarind pulp
    • 1 tsp grated jaggery
    • 1.25 tsp salt
    • 1.5 cups water
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Dry roast the peanuts until golden, then the sesame until it pops, then the coconut, coriander and cumin until fragrant. In 1 tbsp oil fry the sliced onion for 6-7 minutes until golden brown. Grind everything together with a little water to a smooth paste.
    2. Heat 3 tbsp oil in a kadai and fry the brinjals on medium heat for 6-8 minutes, turning, until the skin wrinkles and they are about three-quarters cooked. Remove.
    3. Add 2 tbsp more oil to the kadai. Splutter mustard, cumin, nigella and fenugreek seeds, then add curry leaves and ginger-garlic paste and fry for 1 minute.
    4. Lower the heat, add turmeric, chilli powder and the ground paste. Fry, stirring frequently, for 6-8 minutes until the paste darkens and oil separates.
    5. Add tamarind pulp, jaggery, salt and water. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes.
    6. Add the fried brinjals, cover and cook on low heat for 10-12 minutes until the brinjals are completely tender and the gravy is thick with a layer of oil on top.
    7. Garnish with coriander and rest for 15 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Fry the brinjals until wrinkled first; that way they absorb gravy without falling apart.
    • The gravy should be thick enough to coat the brinjals, not runny.
    • Like most Hyderabadi gravies, it tastes better after a few hours.

    Serve with

    Hyderabadi biryani, bagara rice or chapati.

  • Gutti Vankaya Kura

    Gutti vankaya kura, stuffed brinjal curry, is one of the most loved vegetarian dishes of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana and a fixture of wedding and festival menus. Gutti means whole or stuffed, and vankaya means brinjal. Small, tender purple brinjals are slit into quarters while still attached at the stem and filled with a roasted spice powder.

    There are many regional versions; this one uses roasted peanuts, sesame, coriander and dry coconut with a little tamarind and jaggery. The brinjals cook slowly in oil until silky, and the stuffing forms a thick, nutty, spicy coating. It is semi-dry and rich, eaten with rice or chapati. Many Telugu cooks say a festival lunch is incomplete without it.

    At a glance

    RegionAndhra Pradesh
    CuisineAndhra
    DietVegan
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbrinjal / peanuts / sesame seeds / dry coconut / onion

    Ingredients

    For the stuffing

    • 3 tbsp raw peanuts
    • 1 tbsp sesame seeds
    • 2 tbsp dry coconut, grated
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 4 garlic cloves
    • 1 small onion, roughly chopped
    • 1.5 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp tamarind paste
    • 1 tsp grated jaggery
    • 1 tsp salt

    For the curry

    • 8-10 small round purple brinjals (about 400 g)
    • 4 tbsp groundnut oil
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 1/2 cup water
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Dry roast the peanuts on medium-low heat for 4-5 minutes until golden, then roast sesame until it pops, then coconut, coriander and cumin for 1-2 minutes until fragrant. Cool.
    2. Grind the roasted ingredients with garlic, onion, chilli powder, turmeric, tamarind, jaggery and salt to a coarse, thick paste, adding only a spoon or two of water.
    3. Wash the brinjals and make two deep cross slits from the bottom, leaving the stem end intact so each brinjal holds together. Keep in salted water while you work, then drain.
    4. Stuff each brinjal generously with the paste, pressing it into the slits. Keep the leftover paste.
    5. Heat oil in a wide, heavy pan. Splutter mustard and cumin seeds and add curry leaves.
    6. Arrange the brinjals in a single layer. Cover and cook on low heat for 8-10 minutes, turning them gently every few minutes, until they start to soften and brown on all sides.
    7. Mix the leftover paste with 1/2 cup water and pour it around the brinjals. Cover and cook on low heat for another 10-12 minutes until the brinjals are completely soft and the masala thickens and leaves oil at the edges.
    8. Garnish with coriander and serve.

    Tips

    • Use small, tender brinjals with shiny skin; older ones are seedy and bitter.
    • Turn the brinjals gently with a spoon or by shaking the pan so they do not break.
    • Groundnut oil gives the most authentic Andhra flavour.

    Serve with

    Hot rice with ghee, chapati or jowar rotti.

  • Hyderabadi Haleem

    Haleem came to Hyderabad from Arab soldiers in the Nizam's army and is now the defining food of Ramzan in the city, so famous that it carries a Geographical Indication tag. Through the fasting month, eateries cook it overnight in huge brick bhattis, the meat and grain stirred and pounded for hours with long wooden ghotnis.

    It is thick, sticky and smooth, with the meat fully broken into strands that bind with the wheat and lentils. The flavour is meaty and gently spiced, lifted at the table with ghee, fried onions, mint, ginger juliennes and lemon. It is eaten at iftar to break the fast, as a rich, filling meal.

    At a glance

    RegionTelangana
    CuisineHyderabadi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time180 minutes
    Total time210 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientsmutton / broken wheat / lentils / ghee / fried onions

    Ingredients

    For the grains

    • 1 cup broken wheat (dalia) or whole wheat, soaked 4 hours
    • 2 tbsp chana dal
    • 2 tbsp toor dal
    • 1 tbsp urad dal
    • 1 tbsp moong dal
    • 2 tbsp barley (optional)
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp salt

    For the meat

    • 750 g boneless mutton, plus a few bones for flavour
    • 1 cup curd
    • 2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 2 tsp garam masala
    • 6 green chillies, crushed
    • 1/2 cup chopped mint
    • 1/2 cup chopped coriander
    • 1 cup fried onions
    • 1/4 cup ghee
    • 1.5 tsp salt
    • 4 cups water

    For topping

    • 1/4 cup ghee
    • 1 cup fried onions
    • 1 inch ginger, julienned
    • mint and coriander leaves
    • lemon wedges
    • cashews fried in ghee (optional)

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the soaked wheat, dals and barley with turmeric, salt and 5 cups water for 8-10 whistles until completely soft. Blend or mash to a smooth paste.
    2. In a large heavy pot, heat the ghee and add the mutton, ginger-garlic paste, chilli powder, turmeric and green chillies. Fry on high heat for 5 minutes.
    3. Add curd, garam masala, salt, half the mint and coriander, the fried onions and 4 cups water. Pressure cook for 6-8 whistles, or simmer covered for 1.5 hours, until the mutton falls apart.
    4. Remove the bones. Shred the meat with two forks, or pulse briefly in a blender with its stock, until it is in fine strands.
    5. Combine the meat and its stock with the wheat-lentil paste in the heavy pot. Cook on low heat for 40-60 minutes, stirring and beating vigorously with a wooden masher every few minutes, until the mixture is thick, stretchy and smooth and the meat is completely amalgamated. Add hot water if it gets too stiff.
    6. Stir in the remaining mint and coriander. The haleem should be thick but spoonable, with ghee glistening on top.
    7. To serve, ladle into bowls, pour hot ghee over each and top with fried onions, ginger, mint, coriander and cashews, with lemon on the side.

    Tips

    • The long, patient beating is what gives haleem its silky, elastic texture; do not skip it.
    • Use a mix of bone-in and boneless mutton for better flavour.
    • Haleem thickens as it cools; loosen leftovers with hot water while reheating.

    Serve with

    Lemon wedges and extra fried onions; Hyderabadis often add a spoon of shorba.

  • Mirchi ka Salan

    Mirchi ka salan is a Hyderabadi curry of long, mildly hot green chillies cooked in a nutty, sour gravy. It is the traditional accompaniment to biryani, and no Hyderabadi wedding feast serves biryani without it. The gravy, made of roasted peanuts, sesame and dry coconut with tamarind, is closely related to the base used for bagara baingan.

    The salan is thick, tangy and slightly sweet, with a deep nutty flavour from the roasted seeds. The chillies are slit, fried and then simmered so they turn soft and absorb the gravy without losing their shape. It cuts through the richness of biryani, and many people also eat it with plain rice or roti.

    At a glance

    RegionTelangana
    CuisineHyderabadi
    DietVegan
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsgreen chillies / peanuts / sesame seeds / dry coconut / tamarind

    Ingredients

    For the chillies

    • 250 g long, thick, mild green chillies (bhavnagari or banana peppers)
    • 3 tbsp oil

    For the paste

    • 3 tbsp raw peanuts
    • 2 tbsp white sesame seeds
    • 2 tbsp dry coconut, grated
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 medium onion, sliced and roasted

    For the gravy

    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/4 tsp nigella seeds (kalonji)
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 1 tsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 3 tbsp thick tamarind pulp
    • 1 tsp grated jaggery
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1.5 cups water

    Method

    1. Wash and dry the chillies. Slit each lengthwise without cutting through, and scrape out some seeds if you want less heat.
    2. Heat 3 tbsp oil in a kadai and fry the chillies on medium heat for 3-4 minutes, turning, until blistered in spots. Remove and set aside.
    3. Dry roast the peanuts for 4-5 minutes until golden, then the sesame seeds until they pop, then the coconut until light brown, and finally the coriander and cumin for a minute. Grind with the roasted onion and a little water to a smooth paste.
    4. In the same kadai, add 2 tbsp oil and splutter mustard, cumin, nigella and fenugreek seeds. Add curry leaves and ginger-garlic paste and fry for 1 minute.
    5. Add the ground paste, turmeric and chilli powder and fry on low heat for 5-6 minutes, stirring often, until the paste darkens slightly and oil begins to separate.
    6. Add tamarind pulp, jaggery, salt and water. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes.
    7. Add the fried chillies and simmer on low heat for 8-10 minutes until the gravy is thick, oil floats on top, and the chillies are tender.
    8. Rest for 30 minutes before serving; the flavour improves as it sits.

    Tips

    • Choose thick, long chillies with low heat; small spicy ones make it too fierce.
    • Roast each seed separately as they brown at different rates.
    • The salan should be thick and oily on top, not watery.

    Serve with

    Hyderabadi biryani with burani raita, or with bagara rice.