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Tag: Non-vegetarian

  • Machher Jhol

    Machher jhol is the everyday fish curry of Bengal, eaten across Kolkata and village homes alike, and the phrase maach-bhaat, fish and rice, sums up Bengali identity for many people. Jhol means a thin, light gravy, as opposed to the richer kalia or the mustard-heavy shorshe. It is typically made with rohu or katla, the freshwater carp of Bengal's ponds and rivers.

    The fish is rubbed with turmeric and salt, fried in mustard oil until golden, then simmered with potatoes and sometimes cauliflower or brinjal in a broth spiced with cumin, ginger and green chillies, tempered with kalo jeere (nigella). It is light, warming and fragrant, the sort of meal cooked for someone recovering from illness, and always eaten with steamed rice.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrohu fish / potato / mustard oil / turmeric / cumin

    Ingredients

    For the fish

    • 6 pieces rohu or katla (about 500 g), steaks with skin
    • 3/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 3/4 tsp salt
    • 4 tbsp mustard oil

    For the jhol

    • 1/2 tsp kalo jeere (nigella seeds)
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 2 medium potatoes, cut into long wedges
    • 1 small tomato, chopped (optional)
    • 1 tbsp ginger paste
    • 1.5 tsp cumin powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1/2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp salt, or to taste
    • 1/2 tsp sugar
    • 2 cups hot water
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Rub the fish with turmeric and salt and set aside for 10 minutes.
    2. Heat the mustard oil in a kadai on high heat until it just begins to smoke, then lower the heat to medium. Fry the fish in batches for 2-3 minutes per side until golden. Do not overcook; it will cook more in the jhol. Remove.
    3. In the same oil fry the potato wedges with a pinch of turmeric and salt for 4-5 minutes until lightly golden on the edges. Remove.
    4. Add kalo jeere and green chillies to the oil and let them sizzle for 10 seconds.
    5. Mix ginger paste, cumin, coriander, turmeric and chilli powder with 3 tbsp water to a paste and add to the kadai. Fry on medium-low heat for 2-3 minutes, adding a splash of water if it sticks, until oil separates. Add tomato if using and cook until soft.
    6. Return the potatoes, add salt, sugar and 2 cups hot water. Cover and simmer for 8-10 minutes until the potatoes are tender.
    7. Slide in the fried fish and simmer gently, uncovered, for 4-5 minutes so the fish absorbs the broth. The gravy should stay thin.
    8. Finish with coriander leaves and serve hot.

    Tips

    • Heat mustard oil to smoking point first to take away its raw pungency.
    • Add hot water, not cold, so the fish stays tender.
    • In summer, many Bengali homes add sliced patol (pointed gourd) or brinjal along with the potatoes.

    Serve with

    Steamed rice, a wedge of gondhoraj lebu (lime) and a green chilli.

  • Chepala Pulusu

    Chepala pulusu, fish in tamarind gravy, is a signature dish of coastal Andhra, from Nellore to the Godavari delta, where fish from the sea, rivers and backwaters is eaten daily. Pulusu means a sour, tamarind-based gravy. Each district has its own style: Nellore chepala pulusu is famous for its raw mango and intense heat, while Godavari versions are slightly sweeter.

    The gravy is thin to medium-thick, red, and sharply sour and spicy, balanced by a pinch of jaggery and the aroma of roasted fenugreek and coriander. Families traditionally cook it in a clay pot and let it rest for several hours, often overnight, so the fish absorbs the tamarind. It is eaten with hot rice.

    At a glance

    RegionAndhra Pradesh
    CuisineAndhra
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsfish / tamarind / onion / red chilli powder / fenugreek

    Ingredients

    For the fish

    • 750 g firm fish steaks (rohu, murrel, seer or pomfret)
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp salt

    For the spice powder

    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 1/4 tsp mustard seeds

    For the pulusu

    • lemon-sized ball of tamarind soaked in 2 cups warm water
    • 4 tbsp groundnut oil
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 2 medium onions, finely sliced
    • 4 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1 tomato, chopped
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 2-3 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1.5 tsp salt
    • 1 tsp grated jaggery
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Clean the fish and rub with turmeric, chilli powder and salt. Marinate for 15 minutes.
    2. Dry roast the coriander, cumin, fenugreek and mustard on low heat for 2 minutes until fragrant. Cool and grind to a powder.
    3. Squeeze the tamarind and strain to get about 2 cups of extract.
    4. Heat oil in a clay pot or wide pan. Splutter mustard and fenugreek seeds, then add curry leaves, onions and green chillies. Fry on medium heat for 6-7 minutes until the onions are soft and light golden.
    5. Add ginger-garlic paste and fry 1 minute. Add tomato, turmeric and chilli powder and cook until the tomato is mushy.
    6. Pour in the tamarind extract and salt and bring to a boil. Simmer for 8-10 minutes on medium heat until the raw tamarind taste is gone and the gravy thickens slightly.
    7. Add the fish pieces in a single layer and sprinkle the spice powder over. Do not stir; swirl the pot gently. Cover and simmer on low heat for 10-12 minutes until the fish is cooked and oil floats on top.
    8. Add jaggery and coriander, swirl once more, switch off and rest for at least 2 hours before serving.

    Tips

    • Firm, thick fish steaks hold their shape; delicate fish breaks in the long simmer.
    • Swirl, never stir, once the fish is in.
    • In Nellore style, add a few pieces of raw mango along with the tamarind.

    Serve with

    Hot rice with a spoon of ghee and fried appadams.

  • Gongura Mutton

    Gongura, the sour leaves of the roselle plant, are so loved in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana that they are often called the pride of Andhra. Gongura pachadi is a household staple, and gongura mamsam, mutton with gongura, is the famous non-vegetarian version. It is a regular on the menus of Andhra meals restaurants and a Sunday favourite at home.

    The leaves cook down into a thick, dark-green purée that clings to the mutton, giving an intense, natural sourness without tamarind. Combined with plenty of red chilli, it is a hot dish, balanced by the richness of the meat. It is eaten with hot rice and ghee or with jowar rotis.

    At a glance

    RegionAndhra Pradesh
    CuisineAndhra
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time75 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / gongura leaves / onion / green chillies / red chilli powder

    Ingredients

    For the mutton

    • 750 g mutton, curry cut
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 cup water

    For the gongura

    • 4 cups packed gongura leaves (about 2 bunches), washed and drained
    • 1 tbsp oil
    • 4 green chillies

    For the masala

    • 4 tbsp oil
    • 1 inch cinnamon, 4 cloves, 3 cardamoms
    • 2 large onions, finely chopped
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • salt to taste
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the mutton with turmeric, ginger-garlic paste, salt and 1 cup water for 5-6 whistles on medium heat until tender. Keep the stock.
    2. Heat 1 tbsp oil in a pan and add the gongura leaves and green chillies. Saute on medium heat for 6-8 minutes until the leaves wilt completely, turn dark and dry out. Mash them into a coarse paste with a spoon or pulse once in a grinder.
    3. In a heavy kadai, heat 4 tbsp oil. Add the whole spices and fry for 20 seconds, then add onions and curry leaves and fry on medium heat for 8-10 minutes until golden brown.
    4. Add ginger-garlic paste and fry for 2 minutes. Lower the heat and add chilli powder and coriander powder; stir for 30 seconds.
    5. Add the cooked mutton without the stock and fry on medium-high heat for 5 minutes so the masala coats the meat.
    6. Add the gongura paste and mix well. Cook for 5 minutes, then add about 1/2 cup of the reserved stock.
    7. Simmer uncovered on low heat for 10-12 minutes, stirring often, until the gravy is thick, dark and oil separates on the sides. Stir in garam masala and coriander leaves.

    Tips

    • Gongura sourness varies by season; taste and add a little more chilli or a pinch of sugar to balance.
    • Saute the leaves until all their moisture evaporates, or the gravy turns watery.
    • Gongura discolours in aluminium; use a steel or iron pan.

    Serve with

    Hot rice with ghee, or jowar rotti and sliced onions.

  • Hyderabadi Haleem

    Haleem came to Hyderabad from Arab soldiers in the Nizam's army and is now the defining food of Ramzan in the city, so famous that it carries a Geographical Indication tag. Through the fasting month, eateries cook it overnight in huge brick bhattis, the meat and grain stirred and pounded for hours with long wooden ghotnis.

    It is thick, sticky and smooth, with the meat fully broken into strands that bind with the wheat and lentils. The flavour is meaty and gently spiced, lifted at the table with ghee, fried onions, mint, ginger juliennes and lemon. It is eaten at iftar to break the fast, as a rich, filling meal.

    At a glance

    RegionTelangana
    CuisineHyderabadi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time180 minutes
    Total time210 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientsmutton / broken wheat / lentils / ghee / fried onions

    Ingredients

    For the grains

    • 1 cup broken wheat (dalia) or whole wheat, soaked 4 hours
    • 2 tbsp chana dal
    • 2 tbsp toor dal
    • 1 tbsp urad dal
    • 1 tbsp moong dal
    • 2 tbsp barley (optional)
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp salt

    For the meat

    • 750 g boneless mutton, plus a few bones for flavour
    • 1 cup curd
    • 2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 2 tsp garam masala
    • 6 green chillies, crushed
    • 1/2 cup chopped mint
    • 1/2 cup chopped coriander
    • 1 cup fried onions
    • 1/4 cup ghee
    • 1.5 tsp salt
    • 4 cups water

    For topping

    • 1/4 cup ghee
    • 1 cup fried onions
    • 1 inch ginger, julienned
    • mint and coriander leaves
    • lemon wedges
    • cashews fried in ghee (optional)

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the soaked wheat, dals and barley with turmeric, salt and 5 cups water for 8-10 whistles until completely soft. Blend or mash to a smooth paste.
    2. In a large heavy pot, heat the ghee and add the mutton, ginger-garlic paste, chilli powder, turmeric and green chillies. Fry on high heat for 5 minutes.
    3. Add curd, garam masala, salt, half the mint and coriander, the fried onions and 4 cups water. Pressure cook for 6-8 whistles, or simmer covered for 1.5 hours, until the mutton falls apart.
    4. Remove the bones. Shred the meat with two forks, or pulse briefly in a blender with its stock, until it is in fine strands.
    5. Combine the meat and its stock with the wheat-lentil paste in the heavy pot. Cook on low heat for 40-60 minutes, stirring and beating vigorously with a wooden masher every few minutes, until the mixture is thick, stretchy and smooth and the meat is completely amalgamated. Add hot water if it gets too stiff.
    6. Stir in the remaining mint and coriander. The haleem should be thick but spoonable, with ghee glistening on top.
    7. To serve, ladle into bowls, pour hot ghee over each and top with fried onions, ginger, mint, coriander and cashews, with lemon on the side.

    Tips

    • The long, patient beating is what gives haleem its silky, elastic texture; do not skip it.
    • Use a mix of bone-in and boneless mutton for better flavour.
    • Haleem thickens as it cools; loosen leftovers with hot water while reheating.

    Serve with

    Lemon wedges and extra fried onions; Hyderabadis often add a spoon of shorba.

  • Hyderabadi Chicken Dum Biryani

    Hyderabadi biryani grew out of the kitchens of the Nizams, and its most prized form is the kachchi style, where raw marinated meat and par-boiled rice are layered and cooked together under a seal. The meat cooks in the steam of the rice while the rice absorbs the juices of the meat. Getting both done at once is the test of a biryani cook.

    The finished biryani has long, separate grains of basmati in white, yellow and saffron-orange, with tender chicken that is spiced, tangy from curd and lemon, and fragrant with mint, fried onions and kewra. It is the dish of every Hyderabadi wedding and Eid, and of countless Sunday lunches. Every family guards its own ratio of rice to meat and its own garam masala blend.

    At a glance

    RegionTelangana
    CuisineHyderabadi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseRice
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time60 minutes
    Total time100 minutes
    Serves5
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / basmati rice / curd / fried onions / saffron

    Ingredients

    For the marinade

    • 1 kg chicken, large bone-in pieces
    • 1 cup thick curd
    • 1.5 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1.5 tsp garam masala
    • 1/2 tsp shahi jeera, crushed
    • 4 green chillies, slit
    • 1/2 cup chopped mint
    • 1/2 cup chopped coriander
    • 1 cup birista (fried onions from 3 large onions)
    • 3 tbsp lemon juice
    • 3 tbsp ghee
    • 2 tbsp oil from frying the onions
    • 1.5 tsp salt

    For the rice

    • 3 cups aged basmati rice, soaked 30 minutes
    • 12 cups water
    • 2 tbsp salt
    • 4 green cardamoms, 4 cloves, 1 inch cinnamon, 2 bay leaves
    • 1 tsp shahi jeera
    • 1 tbsp oil

    For layering

    • a large pinch of saffron in 1/4 cup warm milk
    • 3 tbsp ghee
    • 2 tbsp chopped mint
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 1/2 cup birista
    • 1 tsp kewra water
    • atta dough for sealing

    Method

    1. Mix all the marinade ingredients into the chicken in the heavy, wide pot you will cook the biryani in. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight. Bring to room temperature before cooking.
    2. Bring 12 cups of water to a rolling boil with the salt, whole spices, shahi jeera and oil. The water should taste distinctly salty.
    3. Add the drained rice. Boil on high heat and start checking at 4 minutes: when the grains are about 70 percent cooked, they break when pressed but still have a firm core, scoop out a third of the rice with a slotted spoon and spread it over the chicken.
    4. Boil the remaining rice for another minute and layer half of it over the first layer. Cook the rest another minute until about 85 percent done and spread it on top. Drain well, so very little water goes into the pot.
    5. Drizzle the saffron milk, ghee and kewra water over the rice and scatter mint, coriander and the remaining birista.
    6. Seal the lid with a rope of atta dough, or cover tightly with foil and then the lid.
    7. Cook on high heat for 5 minutes until you hear the marinade sizzle and steam starts to build. Then place the pot on a hot iron tawa and cook on low heat for 35-40 minutes.
    8. Switch off and rest for 10 minutes. Open the seal and serve by scooping from the side so each portion has chicken from the bottom and rice from all layers.

    Tips

    • Use a heavy pot and a tawa underneath during dum to prevent the chicken from burning.
    • Large chicken pieces with bone hold up to the long dum without drying out.
    • Aged basmati gives long, separate grains; new-crop rice breaks.

    Serve with

    Mirchi ka salan and onion-cucumber raita (burani).

  • Coorg Pandi Curry

    Pandi curry, pork curry, is the most celebrated dish of the Kodavas, the people of Kodagu (Coorg) in the Western Ghats. Wild boar hunting was part of Kodava tradition, and today farmed pork is cooked the same way for weddings, Puthari, the harvest festival, and family gatherings. Its defining ingredient is kachampuli, a dark, thick vinegar made from the fruit of the Garcinia gummi-gutta tree.

    The curry is almost black, thanks to spices roasted until very dark. It is sour, peppery and rich, with fatty pork pieces that turn tender and absorb the masala. Kodavas eat it with kadambuttu, steamed rice balls, or akki otti, a thin rice flatbread. A small glass of homemade wine or a cold drink usually comes with it at Kodava celebrations.

    At a glance

    RegionKarnataka
    CuisineKodava
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time60 minutes
    Total time85 minutes
    Serves5
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspork / kachampuli / black pepper / onion / garlic

    Ingredients

    For the pork

    • 1 kg pork with fat and skin, cut into 3 cm cubes
    • 1 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1.5 tsp salt
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder

    For the roasted masala

    • 3 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1.5 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tbsp black peppercorns
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 4 cloves
    • 2 inch cinnamon
    • 6 dry red chillies

    For the curry

    • 2 large onions, roughly chopped
    • 1.5 inch ginger
    • 15 garlic cloves
    • 4 green chillies
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 2-3 tsp kachampuli (Coorg vinegar), to taste
    • 1 cup water

    Method

    1. Rub the pork with turmeric, salt and chilli powder and keep for 20 minutes.
    2. Grind the onions, ginger, garlic and green chillies to a coarse paste.
    3. Put the pork and the onion paste in a heavy pot with 1 cup water. Bring to a boil, then cover and cook on low-medium heat for 35-40 minutes until the pork is tender and has released its fat. You can also pressure cook for 4-5 whistles.
    4. Meanwhile dry roast the coriander, cumin, pepper, mustard, fenugreek, cloves, cinnamon and chillies in a heavy pan on low-medium heat, stirring constantly, for 10-12 minutes until they turn very dark brown, almost black, but not burnt. Cool and grind to a fine powder.
    5. Add 3-4 tbsp of the roasted masala powder to the pork and mix. The curry will turn dark.
    6. Cook uncovered on medium heat for 10-15 minutes, stirring, until the gravy thickens and the pork fat separates and coats the meat.
    7. Add the kachampuli a teaspoon at a time, tasting after each, until the curry is distinctly sour. Add curry leaves, simmer 2 minutes and switch off.
    8. Rest for an hour if you can; pandi curry tastes best the next day.

    Tips

    • Pork belly or shoulder with fat is essential; lean pork turns dry.
    • Roast the spices dark but stop before they burn, which makes the curry bitter.
    • If kachampuli is unavailable, a mix of malt vinegar and a little tamarind is a compromise, but the flavour differs.

    Serve with

    Kadambuttu (steamed rice balls), akki otti or plain rice.

  • Kori Rotti

    Kori rotti is the signature dish of the Bunt and Tuluva communities of coastal Karnataka. Kori means chicken in Tulu, and rotti here is not a flatbread but a brittle, paper-thin wafer made from boiled rice, cooked on a griddle and dried in the sun. The rottis are bought ready-made in Mangalore and keep for months.

    At the table the dry rottis are broken into a plate and the hot chicken curry, called kori gassi, is poured over them. The rotti softens slightly while still keeping some crunch. The gravy is rich with coconut, red with Byadgi chillies and tangy with tamarind. It is a feast dish, made for weddings, festivals and Sunday lunches.

    At a glance

    RegionKarnataka
    CuisineMangalorean
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time40 minutes
    Total time70 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / coconut / byadgi chillies / rice rotti / tamarind

    Ingredients

    For the masala

    • 12 Byadgi chillies
    • 2 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/2 tsp black peppercorns
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 1 tsp oil
    • 1.5 cups grated coconut
    • 1 small onion, sliced
    • 6 garlic cloves
    • small marble of tamarind
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder

    For the curry

    • 750 g chicken, curry cut
    • 3 tbsp coconut oil or ghee
    • 1 large onion, finely sliced
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 1 cup thin coconut milk or water
    • 1/2 cup thick coconut milk
    • 1.5 tsp salt, or to taste

    To serve

    • 8-10 dry rice rottis (Mangalore rotti)

    Method

    1. Roast the chillies, coriander, cumin, pepper and fenugreek in 1 tsp oil on low heat for 3-4 minutes until fragrant. Remove, then lightly roast the sliced onion and garlic in the same pan for 2 minutes.
    2. Grind the roasted spices, onion, garlic, coconut, tamarind and turmeric with about 1 cup water to a smooth, thick paste.
    3. Heat coconut oil in a heavy pan. Fry the sliced onion on medium heat for 6-7 minutes until golden, then add the curry leaves.
    4. Add the chicken and salt and saute on medium-high heat for 5 minutes until the pieces are sealed.
    5. Add the ground masala and fry with the chicken for 4-5 minutes on medium heat, stirring, until it no longer smells raw.
    6. Pour in the thin coconut milk or water, bring to a boil, then cover and simmer for 20 minutes on low heat until the chicken is tender and oil rises to the top.
    7. Stir in the thick coconut milk and heat for 2 minutes without boiling. The gravy should be medium-thick and pourable.
    8. To serve, break 2-3 rottis into each plate and pour the hot gravy with chicken over them just before eating.

    Tips

    • Pour the gravy only at the table, or the rotti turns soggy.
    • Kori gassi should have plenty of gravy because the rotti absorbs a lot.
    • If rotti is unavailable, serve the gassi with neer dosa or steamed rice.

    Serve with

    The rice rottis themselves, with sliced onion and a wedge of lime.

  • Mangalorean Chicken Ghee Roast

    Chicken ghee roast was popularised in the 1950s by Shetty Lunch Home in Kundapur and later spread across Mangalore and the rest of India. It is a dish of the Bunt community, and its intensity comes from a paste of roasted Byadgi chillies, coriander, cumin, pepper, fenugreek and garlic, cooked in plenty of ghee with tamarind and jaggery.

    The result is a deep red, semi-dry dish with a glossy coating of masala. It is tangy, smoky, spicy and buttery all at once, with the ghee carrying the aroma. Despite the colour, Byadgi chillies keep the heat manageable. It is served as a starter or with neer dosa, appam or kori rotti.

    At a glance

    RegionKarnataka
    CuisineMangalorean
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time65 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / ghee / byadgi chillies / tamarind / garlic

    Ingredients

    For the marinade

    • 750 g chicken, small bone-in pieces
    • 1/2 cup thick curd
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 tsp salt

    For the roast masala

    • 15 Byadgi chillies, seeds removed
    • 2 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 4 cloves
    • 12 garlic cloves
    • 2 tsp tamarind paste

    For the roast

    • 6 tbsp ghee, divided
    • 1 tsp grated jaggery
    • salt to taste
    • 1 sprig curry leaves

    Method

    1. Marinate the chicken in curd, turmeric, lemon juice and salt for at least 30 minutes.
    2. Dry roast the chillies on low heat for 1-2 minutes until crisp but not dark. Remove, then roast coriander, cumin, pepper, fenugreek and cloves for 2-3 minutes until fragrant.
    3. Soak the roasted chillies in 1/4 cup warm water for 10 minutes, then grind everything with the garlic and tamarind to a very smooth paste, using the soaking water.
    4. Heat 2 tbsp ghee in a heavy pan. Add the chicken and cook on medium-high heat for 8-10 minutes, until browned and almost cooked through. Remove the chicken, leaving the juices in the pan.
    5. Add 3 tbsp ghee to the pan, lower the heat to medium and add the ground paste. Fry, stirring constantly, for 8-10 minutes until it darkens slightly, smells roasted and the ghee separates. Add a splash of water if it sticks.
    6. Add the chicken with its juices, the jaggery and salt. Toss on medium heat for 8-10 minutes until the masala thickens and coats the chicken.
    7. Add the remaining tablespoon of ghee and the curry leaves and roast for 2 more minutes until glossy. Serve hot.

    Tips

    • Byadgi chillies are essential for the colour; Kashmiri chillies are the closest substitute.
    • Roasting the paste in ghee until it separates is what gives the dish its depth; do not cut this short.
    • Prawns or paneer can be made the same way; reduce the cooking time accordingly.

    Serve with

    Neer dosa, appam, kori rotti or ghee rice, or on its own as a starter.

  • Karimeen Pollichathu

    Karimeen, the pearl spot fish, is the state fish of Kerala and lives in the brackish backwaters of Kuttanad and Kumarakom. Pollichathu means roasted in a parcel, and karimeen pollichathu is the dish houseboat cooks and toddy shops are best known for. The fish is first fried, then wrapped in a banana leaf with a thick masala and roasted on a pan.

    Inside the parcel the fish steams in the masala and absorbs the aroma of the leaf, while the outside stays slightly crisp. The masala is tangy and spicy, built on shallots, tomato, ginger, garlic and kudampuli or lemon, often enriched with coconut milk. Opened at the table, the charred leaf releases a smoky, fragrant steam.

    At a glance

    RegionKerala
    CuisineKerala
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time65 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspearl spot fish / shallots / tomato / banana leaf / coconut oil

    Ingredients

    For the marinade

    • 3 pearl spot fish (karimeen), about 200 g each, cleaned and scored
    • 1.5 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp crushed black pepper
    • 1 tsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 3/4 tsp salt

    For the masala

    • 3 tbsp coconut oil, plus extra for frying
    • 15 shallots, sliced
    • 1 inch ginger, chopped
    • 6 garlic cloves, chopped
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 2 sprigs curry leaves
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 2 tomatoes, chopped
    • 1 piece kudampuli, soaked in 2 tbsp water, or 1 tsp lemon juice
    • 1/2 cup thick coconut milk
    • salt to taste

    For wrapping

    • 3 large pieces of banana leaf, wilted over a flame
    • kitchen string or banana fibre

    Method

    1. Make deep diagonal cuts on both sides of each fish. Mix the marinade ingredients into a thick paste, rub it into the cuts and all over the fish, and marinate for 30 minutes.
    2. Shallow fry the fish in coconut oil on medium heat for 2-3 minutes per side until lightly crisp but not fully cooked. Set aside.
    3. In the same pan, add 3 tbsp coconut oil. Fry the shallots on medium heat for 6-7 minutes until golden. Add ginger, garlic, green chillies and a sprig of curry leaves and fry 2 minutes.
    4. Lower the heat, add chilli, coriander and turmeric powders and stir for 30 seconds. Add tomatoes, kudampuli with its water and salt, and cook for 6-8 minutes until thick and jammy.
    5. Stir in the coconut milk and cook for 2 more minutes until the masala is thick enough to coat a spoon.
    6. Lay out the banana leaves, brush with coconut oil, and spread a spoon of masala in the centre of each. Place a fish on top, cover with more masala and a few curry leaves, fold the leaf into a parcel and tie it.
    7. Heat a flat pan on medium-low, add a drizzle of oil and place the parcels on it. Cover and cook for 7-8 minutes per side until the leaves are charred and brown.
    8. Serve the parcels whole and open them at the table.

    Tips

    • Wilting the banana leaf over a flame makes it pliable so it does not crack while folding.
    • If karimeen is unavailable, pomfret or tilapia works well.
    • Keep the heat low while roasting the parcels so the fish heats through before the leaf burns.

    Serve with

    Kerala matta rice or appam, with a glass of buttermilk.

  • Beef Ularthiyathu

    Beef ularthiyathu, often called beef fry or beef roast, is a signature dish of Kerala's Syrian Christian kitchens and a fixture at weddings, Christmas and toddy shops. Ularthu means to roast or dry-fry, and that long roasting is what makes it: tender beef tossed for a long time in coconut oil until it darkens and the masala clings.

    Thin slivers of coconut, called thenga kothu, are fried until crisp and add bite. The spicing is warm and peppery, built on fennel, garam masala and black pepper, with curry leaves throughout. The finished dish is almost black, crusty at the edges and very aromatic. It is eaten with parotta, appam or rice and is often made a day ahead, since it improves overnight.

    At a glance

    RegionKerala
    CuisineSyrian Christian
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time70 minutes
    Total time95 minutes
    Serves5
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbeef / coconut slivers / shallots / black pepper / coconut oil

    Ingredients

    For cooking the beef

    • 1 kg beef, cut into 2 cm cubes
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 2 tbsp coriander powder
    • 1.5 tsp garam masala
    • 1 tsp fennel powder
    • 1.5 tsp crushed black pepper
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1.5 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp vinegar
    • 1 sprig curry leaves

    For roasting

    • 4 tbsp coconut oil
    • 1/2 cup thin coconut slivers
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 15 shallots, sliced
    • 1 inch ginger, julienned
    • 6 garlic cloves, sliced
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 3 sprigs curry leaves
    • 1 tsp crushed black pepper
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala

    Method

    1. Mix the beef with all the ingredients for cooking and marinate for at least 30 minutes.
    2. Pressure cook the beef without adding water for 5-6 whistles on medium heat, until tender. The beef will release its own juices. Let the pressure drop naturally.
    3. Heat coconut oil in a heavy, wide kadai or uruli on medium heat. Fry the coconut slivers for 4-5 minutes until golden brown. Remove and set aside.
    4. In the same oil splutter mustard seeds, then add shallots, ginger, garlic, green chillies and two sprigs of curry leaves. Fry for 8 minutes until the shallots are golden brown.
    5. Add the cooked beef with all its liquid. Cook on high heat for 8-10 minutes, stirring, until the liquid evaporates.
    6. Return the fried coconut slivers and lower the heat to medium-low. Keep roasting for 20-25 minutes, stirring and scraping the bottom every few minutes, until the beef turns very dark brown, almost black, and crisp at the edges.
    7. Add the crushed pepper, garam masala and remaining curry leaves, toss for 2 more minutes and switch off.

    Tips

    • A cast-iron or heavy aluminium kadai gives the best crust; nonstick pans do not let the masala caramelise.
    • Add a spoon of coconut oil during roasting if the pan looks dry.
    • The flavour deepens overnight; reheat in a pan with a little oil to re-crisp.

    Serve with

    Kerala parotta, appam or matta rice with moru curry.