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Tag: Non-vegetarian

  • Eromba

    Eromba is one of the defining dishes of Meitei cooking in Manipur. Boiled vegetables – potato, beans, bamboo shoot, yongchak (stink beans) or pumpkin – are mashed with roasted chillies and ngari, the pungent fermented fish that Manipuris treasure. It is eaten with rice at lunch and dinner, a spoonful at a time.

    The taste is intense: smoky and very hot from roasted chillies, deeply savoury and funky from ngari, and freshened with herbs such as maroi (Chinese chives), coriander or the local mint-like toningkhok. It uses no oil at all, which is typical of Manipuri home cooking. The texture is rough, with soft vegetables and bits of fish crushed together by hand.

    At a glance

    RegionManipur
    CuisineManipuri
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time35 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspotato / ngari (fermented fish) / dried red chilli / french beans

    Ingredients

    • 2 medium potatoes, peeled and quartered
    • 1 cup french beans, cut into 5 cm pieces
    • 1/2 cup fermented bamboo shoot (optional)
    • 2-3 pieces ngari (fermented dried fish)
    • 4-6 dried red chillies (or 1 king chilli for real heat)
    • 2 tbsp chopped maroi (Chinese chives) or spring onion
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • Salt to taste
    • 2 cups water

    Method

    1. Boil the potatoes, beans and bamboo shoot in 2 cups salted water for 12-15 minutes until soft. Drain, keeping a few tablespoons of the water.
    2. Wrap the ngari in a small piece of banana leaf or foil and roast directly over a low flame for 1-2 minutes until fragrant. Alternatively, drop it into the vegetable water for the last 2 minutes of boiling.
    3. Roast the dried red chillies over a low flame or in a dry pan until they darken and smell smoky, 30-40 seconds. Do not let them turn black.
    4. In a large bowl, crush the roasted chillies and ngari together with a pinch of salt, using your fingers or a pestle, until coarse.
    5. Add the boiled vegetables and mash everything together by hand, adding a spoon or two of the cooking water to bind it into a rough paste.
    6. Mix in the maroi and coriander, adjust salt and serve at room temperature.

    Tips

    • Ngari is very pungent; open the window while roasting and start with less if you are new to it.
    • Wear gloves when mashing if using king chilli (umorok) – it burns the skin.
    • For a vegetarian version, leave out the ngari, though the dish loses its signature depth.

    Serve with

    Plain steamed rice with a light dal or ooti.

  • Hanh Kumura (Duck with Ash Gourd)

    Duck is festive meat in Assam, especially during Magh Bihu in January and among the state's many communities who rear ducks in paddy fields and ponds. Hanh kumura pairs the rich, gamey bird with kumura, ash gourd, which soaks up the fat and spices and softens the strong flavour of the meat.

    The curry is hearty rather than fiery. Duck pieces are browned well in mustard oil with onion, ginger, garlic and whole spices, then simmered slowly until tender; the ash gourd goes in towards the end and turns soft and translucent. Black pepper and a little garam masala give warmth. It is a long, slow cook, ideal for a winter lunch.

    At a glance

    RegionAssam
    CuisineAssamese
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time90 minutes
    Total time120 minutes
    Serves5
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsduck / ash gourd / onion / ginger / garlic

    Ingredients

    For the duck

    • 1.2 kg duck, skin on, cut into medium pieces
    • 1 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp salt

    For the curry

    • 500 g ash gourd (kumura), peeled, deseeded and cut into 4 cm pieces
    • 4 tbsp mustard oil
    • 2 bay leaves
    • 3 green cardamoms
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 3 medium onions, finely chopped
    • 2 tbsp ginger paste
    • 2 tbsp garlic paste
    • 2 tomatoes, chopped
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp cumin powder
    • 1 tsp freshly crushed black pepper
    • 4 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • 3 cups hot water
    • Salt to taste
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Singe off any remaining feathers over a flame, wash the duck well and rub with turmeric and salt. Rest for 20 minutes.
    2. Heat a dry heavy pot and add the duck pieces skin-side down. Cook on medium heat for 10 minutes, turning, until the fat renders and the skin browns. Pour off excess fat, keeping 1 tbsp.
    3. Add the mustard oil to the pot and heat until it smokes, then lower to medium. Add bay leaves, cardamom and cinnamon, then the onions. Fry for 10-12 minutes until golden brown.
    4. Add ginger and garlic pastes and fry for 2 minutes until the raw smell is gone. Add the tomatoes and powdered spices and cook for 5 minutes until the oil separates.
    5. Return the duck to the pot and bhuno on medium heat for 10 minutes, stirring, until the masala darkens and coats the meat.
    6. Pour in 3 cups hot water, add green chillies, cover and simmer on low heat for 45-50 minutes (or pressure cook for 6-7 whistles) until the duck is tender.
    7. Add the ash gourd and black pepper and simmer uncovered for 12-15 minutes until the gourd turns translucent and soft.
    8. Finish with garam masala and coriander, and rest 10 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Duck is fatty – rendering the skin first gives better flavour and a less greasy curry.
    • Do not add the ash gourd early; it releases water and turns to pulp if overcooked.
    • If you can find it, a pinch of crushed Assamese bhut jolokia gives the curry its fiery local version.

    Serve with

    Steamed joha rice or plain rice.

  • Masor Tenga

    Masor tenga means sour fish, and it is the curry Assamese families eat most often, especially in the hot, humid months. Sour food is believed to cool the body, and the souring agent changes with the season: ripe tomato, outenga (elephant apple), thekera (dried mangosteen), lemon, or kaji nemu, the long fragrant Assamese lemon.

    Compared with most Indian fish curries it is thin, bright and simple. Rohu or another freshwater fish is fried lightly in mustard oil, then simmered in a tomato broth tempered with fenugreek seeds. There is no coconut, no heavy masala, only turmeric, green chillies and coriander. The soup is meant to be poured over rice.

    At a glance

    RegionAssam
    CuisineAssamese
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time40 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrohu fish / tomato / lemon / mustard oil

    Ingredients

    • 500 g rohu steaks
    • 1 tsp turmeric powder, divided
    • 1 1/2 tsp salt, divided
    • 4 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds (methi)
    • 4 ripe tomatoes, chopped
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 2 cups water
    • Juice of 1 lemon (or 1/2 Assamese kaji nemu)
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Rub the fish steaks with 1/2 tsp turmeric and 1 tsp salt and set aside for 10 minutes.
    2. Heat the mustard oil in a kadhai until smoking, then lower to medium. Fry the fish for 2 minutes per side until lightly golden; they need not be fully cooked. Remove.
    3. In the same oil add the fenugreek seeds and fry for 10-15 seconds until they turn reddish brown; do not let them blacken.
    4. Add the tomatoes, remaining turmeric and salt. Cook on medium heat for 6-7 minutes, mashing with the spatula, until the tomatoes turn soft and pulpy.
    5. Pour in 2 cups water and add the green chillies. Bring to a boil and simmer for 3 minutes.
    6. Slide in the fried fish and simmer on low heat for 6-7 minutes until the fish is cooked through.
    7. Turn off the heat, stir in the lemon juice and coriander, and serve hot.

    Tips

    • Add the lemon only after switching off the heat; boiling makes it bitter.
    • For outengar tenga, add a few pieces of elephant apple with the tomatoes and skip the lemon.
    • Fried fenugreek should smell nutty – burnt seeds make the whole curry bitter.

    Serve with

    Plain steamed rice, with aloo pitika on the side.

  • Champaran Mutton

    Champaran mutton, also called ahuna or handi meat, comes from the Champaran region of north-west Bihar, near the Nepal border. It was cooked by farmers and at roadside dhabas in clay pots sealed with dough and set over wood or charcoal, and in the last decade it has become a craze, with 'Champaran meat house' signboards appearing far from Bihar.

    Everything goes into the pot raw: mutton, whole garlic bulbs, sliced onions, mustard oil and a generous amount of whole and ground spices. The handi is sealed and gently shaken now and then instead of stirred. The meat cooks in its own juices, absorbing the smoky, earthy flavour of the clay, and the whole garlic turns soft and sweet.

    At a glance

    RegionBihar
    CuisineBihari
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time90 minutes
    Total time120 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / garlic / onion / mustard oil

    Ingredients

    For the mutton

    • 1 kg mutton, curry cut with bone and some fat
    • 4 whole garlic bulbs, top sliced off, outer papery skin removed
    • 4 medium onions, thickly sliced
    • 2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1/2 cup mustard oil
    • 1/4 cup curd (optional)
    • Salt to taste

    Whole spices

    • 2 bay leaves
    • 6 green cardamoms
    • 2 black cardamoms
    • 6 cloves
    • 2 inch cinnamon
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 4 dry red chillies
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds

    Ground spices

    • 1 tsp turmeric powder
    • 2 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp cumin powder
    • 1 1/2 tsp meat masala or garam masala

    For sealing

    • 1 cup atta kneaded into a stiff dough

    Method

    1. Put the mutton, onions, ginger-garlic paste, all the whole and ground spices, salt, curd and half the mustard oil in a large bowl. Mix thoroughly with your hands and marinate for at least 1 hour.
    2. Heat the remaining mustard oil in a small pan until it smokes, then let it cool slightly. This removes its raw pungency.
    3. Put the marinated mutton in a clay handi (or a heavy-bottomed pot), push the garlic bulbs into the meat and pour the cooked oil over the top.
    4. Cover with the lid and seal the edges all round with the atta dough so no steam escapes.
    5. Place the handi on a low charcoal fire or on the lowest gas flame over a tawa. Cook for 75-90 minutes.
    6. Every 15 minutes, lift the handi with a cloth and shake it in a circular motion to move the meat around. Do not open it.
    7. Break the seal after 75 minutes and check: the mutton should come off the bone easily and the oil should float on a thick, dark masala. If not, reseal and cook another 15 minutes.
    8. Serve straight from the handi, with a whole garlic bulb on each plate to squeeze over the meat.

    Tips

    • Season a new clay handi by soaking it in water overnight and rubbing it with mustard oil before use.
    • In a pressure cooker, cook on medium for 1 whistle then on lowest heat for 30 minutes; it lacks the smokiness but is close.
    • Choose meat with fat and bone – the dish depends on the meat's own juices.

    Serve with

    Plain rice or thick rotis, with sliced onion and green chillies.

  • Machha Besara

    Besara is the Odia word for a mustard paste, and machha besara is one of the most common fish preparations along the Mahanadi delta and the coast around Puri and Cuttack. Rohu, katla and other freshwater fish are typical, cut into steaks and fried in mustard oil before they meet the gravy.

    Where Bengali shorshe dishes stay pure mustard, Odia besara usually grinds garlic into the paste and adds tomato for tang, and some families add a few slices of brinjal or potato to stretch the curry. The result is a pungent, sour and gently hot gravy that coats the fish, best eaten with rice or even with pakhala on a summer afternoon.

    At a glance

    RegionOdisha
    CuisineOdia
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrohu fish / mustard seeds / garlic / tomato

    Ingredients

    For the fish

    • 500 g rohu or katla steaks
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 4 tbsp mustard oil

    For the besara paste

    • 2 tbsp yellow or black mustard seeds
    • 6 garlic cloves
    • 2 green chillies
    • 1/4 tsp salt

    For the gravy

    • 1/2 tsp panch phoron
    • 1 dry red chilli
    • 1 medium tomato, chopped
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 small brinjal, cut into wedges (optional)
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 1 cup water
    • Salt to taste
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Rub the fish steaks with turmeric and salt and rest for 15 minutes.
    2. Soak the mustard seeds for 15 minutes, then grind with garlic, green chillies and salt into a smooth paste using a little water.
    3. Heat the mustard oil in a kadhai until smoking, then lower to medium. Fry the fish 2-3 minutes per side until golden and firm. Remove and keep aside.
    4. In the same oil add panch phoron and the dry red chilli. When they crackle, add the brinjal if using and fry for 3 minutes.
    5. Add the tomato, turmeric and chilli powder and cook for 4-5 minutes until the tomato breaks down.
    6. Add the besara paste and cook on low heat for 2 minutes, stirring, then pour in 1 cup water with salt and slit green chillies. Bring to a gentle simmer.
    7. Slide in the fried fish and simmer on low heat for 6-8 minutes, spooning gravy over it, until the gravy thickens slightly and the oil floats on top.
    8. Sprinkle coriander, cover, and rest for 5 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Once the mustard paste is in, keep the heat low – a hard boil makes it bitter.
    • Add a teaspoon of mango kasundi or a few pieces of raw mango in summer for the classic tangy variation.
    • Shake the pan rather than stirring after the fish goes in so the steaks do not break.

    Serve with

    Steamed rice or pakhala bhata.

  • Kolkata Chicken Biryani

    Kolkata biryani descends from the Awadhi kitchen of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, who was exiled from Lucknow to Metiabruz in Kolkata in 1856 and brought his cooks with him. The famous potato is said to have entered the pot there, and today it is non-negotiable: Kolkatans will judge a biryani by its aloo as much as by its meat.

    Compared with Hyderabadi or Malabar biryanis, the Kolkata style is subtle. There is little chilli, the rice is long-grain and separate, and the aroma comes from mace, nutmeg, kewra water, rose water, saffron and ghee. A boiled egg is tucked inside each serving. Arsalan, Aminia and Royal Indian Hotel are the names locals argue over.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseRice
    Prep time45 minutes
    Cook time75 minutes
    Total time120 minutes
    Serves5
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbasmati rice / chicken / potato / egg / yogurt

    Ingredients

    For the chicken

    • 750 g chicken, cut into 8 large pieces with bone
    • 1 cup thick curd
    • 1 tbsp ginger paste
    • 1 tbsp garlic paste
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp white pepper powder
    • 1/2 tsp mace powder
    • 1/4 tsp nutmeg powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/2 cup fried onions (birista)

    For the rice

    • 500 g aged basmati rice, soaked 30 minutes
    • 2 bay leaves
    • 4 green cardamoms
    • 4 cloves
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 1 star anise
    • 1 tbsp salt
    • Juice of 1/2 lemon

    For layering

    • 4 medium potatoes, peeled and halved
    • 4 boiled eggs, peeled
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 4 tbsp ghee
    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 1/2 cup warm milk with a pinch of saffron
    • 1 tsp kewra water
    • 1 tsp rose water
    • 1/2 tsp biryani masala or garam masala
    • 1/4 cup fried onions
    • 1 tbsp sugar (optional, traditional)

    Method

    1. Marinate the chicken with all the marinade ingredients for at least 2 hours.
    2. Rub potatoes and eggs with turmeric and salt. Prick the potatoes with a fork and fry both in the oil on medium heat until golden, about 8 minutes for the potatoes and 2 minutes for the eggs. Set aside.
    3. In the same pan add 2 tbsp ghee, then the chicken with its marinade. Cook on medium-high heat for 5 minutes, then cover and cook on low for 15-20 minutes until the chicken is about 80 percent done and the gravy is thick. Add the fried potatoes for the last 10 minutes.
    4. Bring 3 litres of water to a rolling boil with the whole spices, salt and lemon juice. Add the drained rice and cook for 5-6 minutes until about 70 percent done – a grain should break with a firm white core. Drain immediately.
    5. In a heavy pot, spread half the chicken, potatoes and gravy. Layer half the rice over it. Add the remaining chicken, potatoes and eggs, then the rest of the rice.
    6. Drizzle the saffron milk, kewra water, rose water, remaining ghee and sprinkle the biryani masala, sugar and fried onions over the top.
    7. Seal the pot with a tight lid and atta dough, or a layer of foil under the lid. Cook on high heat for 3 minutes, then place on a hot tawa and cook on the lowest heat for 25 minutes (dum).
    8. Turn off the heat and leave sealed for 10 minutes. Open, gently fold from the sides with a flat spoon, and serve each plate with a piece of chicken, a potato and an egg.

    Tips

    • Prick and pre-fry the potatoes; raw potatoes will not cook through during dum.
    • Use a light hand with kewra and rose water – more than a teaspoon each makes the biryani taste soapy.
    • Aged basmati absorbs less water and stays separate; new-crop rice tends to break.

    Serve with

    Chicken chaap or mutton rezala, with a cool raita and sliced onions.

  • Kolkata Kathi Roll

    The kathi roll traces back to Nizam's restaurant near New Market in Kolkata in the 1930s, where kebabs on bamboo skewers – kathi – were wrapped in paratha so busy office workers could eat on the go. Today the city has hundreds of roll counters, and 'egg chicken roll' is ordered as casually as tea.

    A proper Kolkata roll uses a maida paratha cooked on a tawa with a beaten egg pressed onto one side, then filled with charred, tangy kebab pieces, raw onion, green chilli and a squeeze of lime. There is no mayonnaise and very little sauce; the flavour comes from the smoky meat, the flaky, slightly oily paratha and the sharp crunch of onion.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseStreet food
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time60 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientschicken / maida / egg / onion

    Ingredients

    For the chicken kebab

    • 400 g boneless chicken thigh, cut into 2 cm pieces
    • 3 tbsp thick curd
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1 1/2 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • 1/2 tsp chaat masala
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 tbsp mustard oil
    • Salt to taste

    For the paratha

    • 2 cups maida
    • 1 tbsp oil plus extra for cooking
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp sugar
    • Water to knead
    • 4 eggs

    For the filling

    • 2 onions, thinly sliced
    • 4 green chillies, finely chopped
    • 2 limes, cut into wedges
    • Chaat masala to sprinkle
    • Tomato ketchup (optional)

    Method

    1. Mix the chicken with all the kebab ingredients and marinate for at least 1 hour.
    2. Knead the maida with oil, salt, sugar and enough water into a soft dough. Cover and rest for 30 minutes.
    3. Thread the chicken onto skewers and grill over a gas flame or under a hot grill for 8-10 minutes, turning, until cooked and charred at the edges. Alternatively, sear on a very hot tawa with a little oil.
    4. Divide the dough into 4 balls. Roll each into a thin 20 cm circle, brush with oil, fold into pleats like a fan, coil it into a spiral and roll out again to 18 cm. This gives the flaky layers.
    5. Cook a paratha on a medium-hot tawa for 1 minute per side with a little oil until light golden spots appear.
    6. Beat an egg with a pinch of salt and pour it onto the tawa. Immediately place the paratha on top of the egg and press gently. Cook for 1 minute until the egg sets and sticks to the paratha, then flip and cook 30 seconds.
    7. Place the paratha egg-side up. Line the centre with chicken pieces, onions and green chillies, sprinkle chaat masala and squeeze lime over it. Roll up tightly, wrap the bottom half in paper and serve immediately.

    Tips

    • The paratha should be crisp outside and soft inside – keep the tawa at medium, not high, so it cooks through without burning.
    • Soak the sliced onions in iced water for 10 minutes and drain well for extra crunch.
    • For a mutton roll, use the same marinade with boneless mutton pieces pressure-cooked first, then charred.

    Serve with

    Eat straight away, wrapped in paper, with an extra lime wedge.

  • Shorshe Ilish

    Shorshe ilish is the dish that marks the monsoon in Bengal, when hilsa swim up the Padma and the Ganga to spawn and the fish markets of Kolkata fill with silver. Bengalis argue endlessly over Padma versus Ganga hilsa, but agree that the fish needs very little help: freshly ground mustard, green chillies, turmeric and a generous slick of raw mustard oil.

    The flavour is bold and nose-tingling. Black and yellow mustard seeds are ground with a pinch of salt and a green chilli so the paste does not turn bitter, then the oily, delicate fish cooks gently in it. It is eaten with plain steamed rice, picking carefully around the fine bones, and the leftover gravy mixed into rice is often considered the best part.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time40 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientshilsa / mustard seeds / mustard oil / green chilli

    Ingredients

    For the fish

    • 6 hilsa steaks (about 600 g), cleaned
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp salt

    For the mustard gravy

    • 2 tbsp black mustard seeds
    • 1 tbsp yellow mustard seeds
    • 4-5 green chillies (2 for the paste, rest slit)
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 4 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1/2 tsp kalonji (nigella seeds)
    • 3/4 cup water
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Rub the hilsa steaks with turmeric and salt and set aside for 10 minutes. Do not wash the fish again after marinating.
    2. Soak both kinds of mustard seeds in warm water for 15 minutes. Drain and grind with 2 green chillies, a pinch of salt and 2-3 tbsp water to a smooth, thick paste. Grind in short bursts so the paste does not heat up and turn bitter.
    3. Loosen the paste with 1/2 cup water and the remaining turmeric, then pass it through a fine sieve if you want a very smooth gravy.
    4. Heat 3 tbsp mustard oil in a wide kadhai until it just begins to smoke, then reduce the heat to medium. Add the kalonji and let it crackle for a few seconds.
    5. Pour in the mustard mixture and the remaining 1/4 cup water. Add salt and bring to a gentle simmer on low-medium heat for 2 minutes; do not boil hard or the mustard turns bitter.
    6. Slide in the hilsa steaks in a single layer and spoon the gravy over them. Scatter the slit green chillies on top.
    7. Cover and cook on low heat for 8-10 minutes, without stirring. Tilt and swirl the pan once halfway so the fish does not stick. The fish is done when the flesh near the bone turns opaque.
    8. Turn off the heat, drizzle the remaining 1 tbsp raw mustard oil over the top and keep covered for 5 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Do not fry the hilsa before adding it to the gravy if the fish is very fresh – steaming it raw keeps the flesh soft and the flavour clean.
    • If you cannot grind fresh mustard, use a good kasundi mixed with a little ground mustard, though the taste will be sharper and more vinegary.
    • For bhapa ilish, mix the same paste with the fish in a steel tiffin box, seal and steam over boiling water for 15 minutes.

    Serve with

    Hot steamed gobindobhog or sona masoori rice, with a wedge of lime on the side.

  • Kosha Mangsho

    Kosha mangsho means mutton that has been 'koshano' – stirred and seared slowly in its own masala until the oil separates and the meat turns deep brown. Kolkata's Golbari, a small eatery in Shyambazar, made it famous, and in many Bengali homes it is still the centrepiece of a Sunday lunch or a festive meal after Durga Puja.

    The gravy is thick, almost dry, and dark from long bhuna rather than from food colour. Mustard oil, whole garam masala, a touch of sugar to caramelise the onions, and plenty of ginger and garlic give it a rich, slightly sweet and pungent character. Potatoes are often added for those who like them, and the dish tastes even better the next day.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time105 minutes
    Total time125 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / onion / yogurt / mustard oil

    Ingredients

    For the marinade

    • 1 kg mutton (curry cut, with bone)
    • 1/2 cup thick curd
    • 1 tbsp ginger paste
    • 1 tbsp garlic paste
    • 1 tsp turmeric powder
    • 2 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 2 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1 tsp salt

    For cooking

    • 5 tbsp mustard oil
    • 2 bay leaves
    • 4 green cardamoms
    • 4 cloves
    • 2 inch cinnamon stick
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 4 large onions, finely sliced
    • 2 medium potatoes, halved (optional)
    • 1 tsp cumin powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 4 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tsp garam masala powder
    • 1 tbsp ghee
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Mix the mutton with all the marinade ingredients and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or overnight.
    2. If using potatoes, rub them with salt and turmeric and fry in 1 tbsp mustard oil until golden on all sides. Set aside.
    3. Heat the remaining mustard oil in a heavy pot until smoking, then lower to medium. Add bay leaves, cardamom, cloves and cinnamon, then the sugar. Let the sugar melt and caramelise for 20-30 seconds.
    4. Add the sliced onions and fry on medium heat for 15-18 minutes, stirring often, until they are deep golden brown.
    5. Add the marinated mutton with all the marinade. Raise the heat to high for 5 minutes, stirring constantly, then lower to medium-low.
    6. Add cumin powder, coriander powder and green chillies. Cover and cook, opening every 5-7 minutes to stir and scrape the bottom, for about 45 minutes. The meat releases its own water; add 2-3 tbsp hot water only if it sticks.
    7. Once the masala turns dark brown and the oil floats at the edges, add the fried potatoes and 1/2 cup hot water. Cover and cook on low for another 30-40 minutes until the mutton is tender and the potatoes are cooked through.
    8. Uncover and keep stirring on medium heat for 5 minutes until the gravy is thick and clinging. Finish with garam masala and ghee, rest for 10 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Use meat from the shoulder or a mix with some fat and bone – lean leg pieces turn dry in the long bhuna.
    • To save time, pressure cook after step 6 for 3-4 whistles, then open and dry off the gravy on high heat.
    • The colour should come from patient browning of onions and meat; resist adding more chilli powder to darken it.

    Serve with

    Luchi, basanti pulao or plain steamed rice, with sliced onion and green chilli.

  • Chingri Malai Curry

    Chingri malai curry is the Bengali dish of choice for a son-in-law on jamai sasthi or for any guest worth impressing. The 'malai' refers to coconut cream rather than dairy, and some food historians link the name to Malay traders who brought coconut-based cooking to the eastern coast. Golda chingri, the big freshwater scampi with blue-orange heads, are the traditional prawn.

    The curry is mild, rich and faintly sweet. The prawn heads are left on because the fat inside them colours and flavours the gravy, and whole garam masala in ghee gives the warm aroma Bengalis expect. Unlike southern coconut curries it uses no curry leaves or tamarind; the balance is between sweetness, gentle heat from green chillies and the richness of coconut milk.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsprawns / coconut milk / onion / ghee

    Ingredients

    For the prawns

    • 8 large golda prawns or 500 g tiger prawns, shelled, deveined, heads and tails on
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp mustard oil

    For the gravy

    • 1 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1 tbsp ghee
    • 2 bay leaves
    • 3 green cardamoms, lightly crushed
    • 3 cloves
    • 1 inch cinnamon stick
    • 1 large onion, ground to a paste
    • 1 tsp ginger paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 1 1/2 cups thick coconut milk
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1/4 tsp garam masala powder
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Rub the cleaned prawns with turmeric and salt and keep aside for 10 minutes.
    2. Heat 2 tbsp mustard oil in a kadhai until smoking, then lower to medium. Fry the prawns for 1 minute per side until they just turn pink and curl. Remove; they will finish cooking in the gravy.
    3. In the same pan add the remaining mustard oil and ghee. Add bay leaves, cardamom, cloves and cinnamon and let them sizzle for 20 seconds.
    4. Add the onion paste and cook on medium heat for 6-8 minutes, stirring, until the raw smell is gone and it turns light golden.
    5. Add ginger paste, turmeric and chilli powder with a splash of water. Cook for 2 minutes until the oil starts separating.
    6. Lower the heat and pour in the coconut milk, stirring continuously so it does not split. Add salt, sugar and the slit green chillies and simmer gently for 4-5 minutes.
    7. Return the prawns to the pan. Simmer on low heat for 4-5 minutes, spooning gravy over them, until the prawns are cooked through and the gravy coats the back of a spoon.
    8. Sprinkle garam masala and add a final teaspoon of ghee. Cover and rest for 5 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Keep the heads on and press them gently while cooking – the orange fat inside is what gives the gravy its colour.
    • Never boil hard once the coconut milk is in, or it will curdle and turn grainy.
    • Overcooked prawns turn rubbery; take them off the heat as soon as they are opaque in the centre.

    Serve with

    Plain steamed rice or ghee bhaat, with a slice of lime.