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Tag: Rice

  • Modur Pulav

    Modur pulav, literally sweet pulao, is the celebratory rice of Kashmir. It is cooked at weddings, births and festivals, in both Pandit and Muslim homes, and its golden colour and perfume of saffron make it a centrepiece. The valley's own saffron from Pampore is traditionally used, along with walnuts and almonds grown in Kashmiri orchards.

    The rice is long-grain basmati cooked with ghee, sugar, cinnamon, cardamom and cloves, so every grain is glossy and lightly sweet. Saffron soaked in milk is drizzled in at the end, leaving streaks of gold, and the pulao is studded with fried almonds, cashews, walnuts, raisins and sometimes dried apricots and dates.

    Though sweet, it is served as part of the main meal alongside savoury dishes like yakhni or rogan josh, so the contrast of sweet and spiced is part of the experience. It is also offered at shrines and religious gatherings. Because it is sweet and rich, a small serving is enough, and leftovers can be warmed with a sprinkle of water and a spoon of ghee.

    At a glance

    RegionJammu and Kashmir
    CuisineKashmiri
    DietVegetarian
    CourseRice
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time60 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbasmati rice / saffron / ghee / sugar / dry fruits

    Ingredients

    • 1 1/2 cups aged basmati rice
    • 4 tbsp ghee
    • 1/2 cup sugar
    • 1 cinnamon stick, 4 green cardamom, 4 cloves, 1 bay leaf
    • A generous pinch of saffron soaked in 3 tbsp warm milk
    • 10 almonds, halved
    • 10 cashews
    • 8 walnut halves
    • 2 tbsp raisins
    • 4 dried apricots or dates, chopped (optional)
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 1/2 cups water

    Method

    1. Wash the rice gently until the water runs clear and soak for 30 minutes. Drain.
    2. Bring a large pot of water to a boil with the salt, add the rice and cook 6 to 7 minutes until about three-quarters done. Drain in a colander.
    3. Heat 2 tbsp ghee in a heavy pan on medium. Fry almonds, cashews and walnuts for 2 minutes until golden, add raisins and apricots for 30 seconds until the raisins puff. Remove.
    4. Add the remaining ghee to the pan with cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and bay leaf. Let them sizzle for 30 seconds.
    5. Add the sugar with 1/2 cup water and stir until it dissolves into a light syrup, about 2 minutes.
    6. Add the parboiled rice and fold very gently. Drizzle the saffron milk over the top and scatter most of the fried dry fruits.
    7. Cover tightly and cook on the lowest heat for 12 to 15 minutes (on a tawa placed under the pan, if your burner runs hot), until the rice is fully cooked and the syrup absorbed.
    8. Rest 5 minutes, fluff gently and garnish with the remaining dry fruits.

    Tips

    • Parboiling first keeps the grains separate; cooking raw rice in syrup makes it sticky.
    • Adjust sugar to taste – traditional versions are quite sweet.
    • A few drops of rose water at the end add another layer of perfume.

    Serve with

    Kashmiri yakhni or rogan josh as part of a festive meal.

  • Lucknowi Chicken Biryani

    Lucknowi or Awadhi biryani comes from the nawabi kitchens of Lucknow, where cooks perfected the pukki style: meat and rice cooked separately and then layered and finished on dum. It is the opposite of the fiery Hyderabadi kacchi biryani, prized instead for restraint, perfume and the separate, delicately flavoured grains.

    The chicken is first cooked in yogurt and whole spices to make a light, aromatic korma-like base with its own stock. Parboiled basmati is layered over it with saffron milk, kewra, rose water, fried onions and ghee, and the pot is sealed with dough. The result is subtle and fragrant, with gentle heat and moist, tender meat.

    Biryani is the centrepiece of Eid, weddings and Sunday feasts, served with burani raita or a simple onion salad. In Lucknow, it would be followed by phirni or shahi tukda. The chicken base can be made a few hours ahead, and the rice parboiled just before layering, so the pot can go on dum while guests arrive. Opening the seal at the table, with the burst of saffron and kewra aroma, is part of the ritual.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineAwadhi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseRice
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time75 minutes
    Total time115 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / basmati rice / yogurt / saffron / fried onions

    Ingredients

    For the chicken

    • 1 kg chicken, curry cut
    • 1 cup thick curd
    • 1 1/2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp white pepper powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 4 tbsp ghee
    • 4 green cardamom, 2 black cardamom, 6 cloves, 1 cinnamon stick, 1 blade mace, 2 bay leaves
    • 1 cup fried onions (birista), crushed
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 1 cup water

    For the rice

    • 2 1/2 cups aged basmati rice, soaked 30 minutes
    • 1 tbsp salt
    • 2 green cardamom, 4 cloves, 1 bay leaf, 1 tsp shahi jeera

    For layering

    • A generous pinch of saffron in 1/4 cup warm milk
    • 1 tsp kewra water
    • 1/2 tsp rose water
    • 3 tbsp ghee
    • 1/2 cup fried onions
    • 2 tbsp chopped mint
    • Atta dough to seal the lid

    Method

    1. Marinate chicken with curd, ginger-garlic paste, chilli powder, white pepper and salt for at least 1 hour.
    2. Heat ghee in a heavy biryani pot on medium. Add the whole spices and let them crackle for 30 seconds.
    3. Add the chicken with its marinade and the crushed fried onions. Cook on medium-high for 10 minutes, stirring, then add water, cover and simmer 15 minutes until the chicken is almost cooked and the gravy reduced to about 1 cup. Stir in garam masala.
    4. Meanwhile bring 3 litres of water to a rolling boil with salt and the rice spices. Add the drained rice and cook 6 to 7 minutes until 70 percent done – the grain should break with a firm white centre. Drain.
    5. Spread the rice over the chicken in an even layer. Drizzle with saffron milk, kewra, rose water and melted ghee, and scatter fried onions and mint.
    6. Cover with the lid and seal the edge with a rope of atta dough.
    7. Place the pot on a tawa over high heat for 5 minutes, then lower to the minimum and cook on dum for 25 minutes.
    8. Rest 10 minutes off the heat before breaking the seal. Serve by scooping from the side so each portion has rice and chicken.

    Tips

    • Parboiling the rice correctly is the crucial step; overcooked rice turns mushy on dum.
    • Fry your own onions thin and slowly until deep golden; they flavour both the chicken and the rice.
    • The salt in the boiling water should taste like sea water – the rice gets no other seasoning.

    Serve with

    Burani raita, onion-cucumber salad and mirchi ka salan or a light korma.

  • Jeera Rice

    Jeera rice is the standard rice of Punjabi restaurants and the easiest upgrade from plain steamed rice at home. It owes its popularity to the long-grain basmati of Punjab and Haryana, which cooks into separate, slender grains, and to cumin, a spice that pairs well with the dals and gravies of the region.

    The flavour is light and nutty. Cumin seeds fried in ghee release their aroma into the fat, which then coats every grain; a bay leaf and a couple of cardamoms add a faint perfume. The rice should be fluffy and dry, each grain long and intact, never sticky. A squeeze of lemon helps keep the grains white.

    It is served with dal makhani, rajma, kadhi, chole or any rich curry, and it is a fast side for weeknights because it takes barely 25 minutes from start to finish. Because it is mildly flavoured, it never competes with the curry it accompanies. Cooking it by the absorption method, with a measured amount of water and a tight lid, keeps the grains long and intact without draining away any flavour.

    At a glance

    RegionPunjab
    CuisinePunjabi
    DietVegetarian
    CourseRice
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time45 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbasmati rice / cumin seeds / ghee

    Ingredients

    • 1 1/2 cups aged basmati rice
    • 2 tbsp ghee
    • 1 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 bay leaf
    • 2 green cardamom
    • 3 cloves
    • 1 small cinnamon stick
    • 2 3/4 cups hot water
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 tsp lemon juice
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Rinse the rice gently in 3 to 4 changes of water until the water is nearly clear. Soak 20 minutes, then drain well for 5 minutes.
    2. Heat ghee in a heavy-bottomed pot on medium. Add the cumin seeds and let them sizzle and turn a shade darker, about 30 seconds.
    3. Add bay leaf, cardamom, cloves and cinnamon and stir for a few seconds.
    4. Add the drained rice and stir very gently for 2 minutes so the grains are coated in ghee and turn opaque.
    5. Pour in the hot water, add salt and lemon juice, and bring to a boil on high.
    6. When most of the water on the surface has been absorbed and small craters appear, about 6 to 7 minutes, cover tightly and lower the heat to the minimum. Cook 10 minutes.
    7. Switch off and leave covered 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork, lifting from the bottom, and garnish with coriander.

    Tips

    • Aged basmati absorbs less water and elongates better than new-crop rice.
    • Lemon juice keeps the grains white and separate.
    • Do not stir after adding water; it breaks the grains and releases starch.

    Serve with

    Dal makhani, rajma, kadhi pakora or any Punjabi curry.

  • Vegetable Pulao

    Vegetable pulao is cooked in homes across India, and every region tweaks it slightly. It descends from the Persian pilaf, introduced to Indian kitchens by the Mughal court, but the everyday version is far simpler: basmati rice and seasonal vegetables cooked together in a measured amount of water with whole spices, so the rice absorbs all the flavour.

    Unlike biryani, pulao is not layered or dum-cooked, and it relies on aroma rather than heat. Bay leaf, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom and shahi jeera give fragrance, ghee gives richness, and carrots, beans, peas and cauliflower add colour. It goes into school tiffins, onto weekday lunch plates and alongside a rich curry at parties.

    At a glance

    RegionPan-Indian
    CuisineNorth Indian
    DietVegetarian
    CourseRice
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time40 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbasmati rice / carrot / green peas / french beans / ghee

    Ingredients

    • 1 1/2 cups basmati rice, rinsed and soaked 30 minutes
    • 2 tbsp ghee
    • 1 tsp shahi jeera or cumin seeds
    • 1 bay leaf
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 4 cloves
    • 3 green cardamoms
    • 1 star anise (optional)
    • 1 large onion, thinly sliced
    • 1 tsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 1 carrot, diced
    • 1/2 cup french beans, chopped
    • 1/2 cup green peas
    • 1/2 cup cauliflower florets
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 2 1/2 cups hot water
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp chopped mint
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 1 tsp lemon juice

    Method

    1. Heat the ghee in a heavy pot on medium heat. Add shahi jeera, bay leaf, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom and star anise and fry for 30 seconds until fragrant.
    2. Add the onion and fry for 5-6 minutes until light golden.
    3. Add ginger-garlic paste and green chillies and fry for 1 minute until the raw smell goes.
    4. Add carrot, beans, peas and cauliflower and stir-fry on medium heat for 3 minutes.
    5. Drain the rice and add it to the pot. Stir gently for 1-2 minutes so the grains are coated in ghee, taking care not to break them.
    6. Pour in the hot water, add salt, garam masala, mint and coriander, and bring to a boil on high heat.
    7. Cover tightly and cook on the lowest heat for 12-14 minutes until the water is absorbed and the rice is cooked. Do not open the lid in between.
    8. Turn off the heat, rest covered for 10 minutes, drizzle lemon juice and fluff gently with a fork.

    Tips

    • Soaked basmati needs about 1 3/4 cups water per cup of rice in a pot; in a pressure cooker use 1 1/2 cups and cook for 1 whistle.
    • Resting after cooking lets the steam finish the grains so they separate without breaking.
    • Top with fried onions and cashews for a festive version.

    Serve with

    Boondi raita, paneer butter masala or dal makhani.

  • Jadoh

    Jadoh is the signature dish of the Khasi and Jaintia people of Meghalaya. In Shillong's Police Bazaar and Laitumkhrah, small jadoh stalls serve it from dawn, often with pork offal, fried fish or a pork curry, and it is the meal people head to after a long night or a cold morning walk.

    It is rice cooked in pork fat and stock with plenty of ginger, onion and turmeric, so each grain turns yellow, glossy and savoury. Traditional versions use the local red rice and sometimes cook the rice with pig's blood (jadoh snam). The version here uses pork pieces and ordinary rice, and is mildly spiced so the meat and ginger lead.

    At a glance

    RegionMeghalaya
    CuisineKhasi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseRice
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time70 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / pork / ginger / onion / turmeric

    Ingredients

    • 1 1/2 cups short-grain or local red rice, washed and soaked 20 minutes
    • 400 g pork with some fat, cut into small 2 cm pieces
    • 2 tbsp pork fat or oil
    • 2 onions, finely chopped
    • 2 tbsp ginger, finely chopped or crushed
    • 1 tbsp garlic, crushed
    • 1 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1/2 tsp black pepper
    • 2 bay leaves
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 3 1/2 cups hot water
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Put the pork pieces in a heavy pot on medium heat with 1/4 cup water. Cover and cook for 15 minutes until the water evaporates and the fat starts to render.
    2. Add the pork fat or oil and fry the pork on medium heat for 5-6 minutes until lightly browned.
    3. Add the onions, ginger, garlic and bay leaves and fry for 6-8 minutes until the onions are soft and golden.
    4. Stir in turmeric, black pepper, green chillies and salt and cook for 1 minute.
    5. Drain the rice and add it to the pot. Stir gently for 2 minutes so every grain is coated in the fat and turns yellow.
    6. Pour in the hot water, bring to a boil, then cover and cook on the lowest heat for 18-20 minutes until the rice is cooked and the water absorbed. Red rice may need 10 minutes longer and a little more water.
    7. Turn off the heat and leave covered for 10 minutes, then fluff gently and serve.

    Tips

    • Do not skimp on ginger – it is the dominant flavour after the pork.
    • For a lighter dish, use chicken thighs instead of pork, though it is then no longer classic jadoh.
    • Leftover jadoh reheats well with a splash of water in a covered pan.

    Serve with

    Doh khlieh (pork salad), a pork curry, or a fiery tomato chutney.

  • Kolkata Chicken Biryani

    Kolkata biryani descends from the Awadhi kitchen of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, who was exiled from Lucknow to Metiabruz in Kolkata in 1856 and brought his cooks with him. The famous potato is said to have entered the pot there, and today it is non-negotiable: Kolkatans will judge a biryani by its aloo as much as by its meat.

    Compared with Hyderabadi or Malabar biryanis, the Kolkata style is subtle. There is little chilli, the rice is long-grain and separate, and the aroma comes from mace, nutmeg, kewra water, rose water, saffron and ghee. A boiled egg is tucked inside each serving. Arsalan, Aminia and Royal Indian Hotel are the names locals argue over.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseRice
    Prep time45 minutes
    Cook time75 minutes
    Total time120 minutes
    Serves5
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbasmati rice / chicken / potato / egg / yogurt

    Ingredients

    For the chicken

    • 750 g chicken, cut into 8 large pieces with bone
    • 1 cup thick curd
    • 1 tbsp ginger paste
    • 1 tbsp garlic paste
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp white pepper powder
    • 1/2 tsp mace powder
    • 1/4 tsp nutmeg powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/2 cup fried onions (birista)

    For the rice

    • 500 g aged basmati rice, soaked 30 minutes
    • 2 bay leaves
    • 4 green cardamoms
    • 4 cloves
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 1 star anise
    • 1 tbsp salt
    • Juice of 1/2 lemon

    For layering

    • 4 medium potatoes, peeled and halved
    • 4 boiled eggs, peeled
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 4 tbsp ghee
    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 1/2 cup warm milk with a pinch of saffron
    • 1 tsp kewra water
    • 1 tsp rose water
    • 1/2 tsp biryani masala or garam masala
    • 1/4 cup fried onions
    • 1 tbsp sugar (optional, traditional)

    Method

    1. Marinate the chicken with all the marinade ingredients for at least 2 hours.
    2. Rub potatoes and eggs with turmeric and salt. Prick the potatoes with a fork and fry both in the oil on medium heat until golden, about 8 minutes for the potatoes and 2 minutes for the eggs. Set aside.
    3. In the same pan add 2 tbsp ghee, then the chicken with its marinade. Cook on medium-high heat for 5 minutes, then cover and cook on low for 15-20 minutes until the chicken is about 80 percent done and the gravy is thick. Add the fried potatoes for the last 10 minutes.
    4. Bring 3 litres of water to a rolling boil with the whole spices, salt and lemon juice. Add the drained rice and cook for 5-6 minutes until about 70 percent done – a grain should break with a firm white core. Drain immediately.
    5. In a heavy pot, spread half the chicken, potatoes and gravy. Layer half the rice over it. Add the remaining chicken, potatoes and eggs, then the rest of the rice.
    6. Drizzle the saffron milk, kewra water, rose water, remaining ghee and sprinkle the biryani masala, sugar and fried onions over the top.
    7. Seal the pot with a tight lid and atta dough, or a layer of foil under the lid. Cook on high heat for 3 minutes, then place on a hot tawa and cook on the lowest heat for 25 minutes (dum).
    8. Turn off the heat and leave sealed for 10 minutes. Open, gently fold from the sides with a flat spoon, and serve each plate with a piece of chicken, a potato and an egg.

    Tips

    • Prick and pre-fry the potatoes; raw potatoes will not cook through during dum.
    • Use a light hand with kewra and rose water – more than a teaspoon each makes the biryani taste soapy.
    • Aged basmati absorbs less water and stays separate; new-crop rice tends to break.

    Serve with

    Chicken chaap or mutton rezala, with a cool raita and sliced onions.

  • Pakhala Bhata

    Pakhala bhata is cooked rice soaked in water, sometimes left overnight to ferment lightly, and it is the food Odisha turns to in the blistering summer. The state even celebrates Pakhala Dibasa on 20 March. Farm workers ate it for centuries because it keeps the body hydrated and cool, and it is offered at the Jagannath temple too.

    There are several styles: jeera pakhala with roasted cumin, dahi pakhala with curd and a tempering, and basi pakhala that has fermented overnight and turned pleasantly sour. The rice itself is bland, so it is eaten with strongly flavoured sides – fried fish, badi chura (crushed lentil dumplings with onion and mustard oil), aloo bharta and saga bhaja.

    At a glance

    RegionOdisha
    CuisineOdia
    DietVegetarian
    CourseRice
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time5 minutes
    Total time15 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientscooked rice / curd / curry leaves / ginger

    Ingredients

    For the rice

    • 2 cups cooked rice, cooled
    • 3 cups water, at room temperature or chilled
    • 1/2 cup plain curd, whisked
    • 1 tsp grated ginger
    • 1 green chilli, finely chopped
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp chopped coriander
    • A few mint leaves (optional)

    For the tempering

    • 1 tsp mustard oil
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 dry red chilli
    • 8-10 curry leaves

    Method

    1. For basi pakhala, put the cooked rice in a clay or steel pot, cover with water and leave overnight at room temperature. For instant pakhala, simply soak the cooled rice in water for 1-2 hours.
    2. Gently break up any lumps of rice with your fingers so the grains float loosely in the water.
    3. Whisk the curd with salt, ginger and green chilli and stir it into the rice and water.
    4. Heat the mustard oil in a small pan until it smokes, then lower the heat. Add mustard seeds and let them pop, then cumin, red chilli and curry leaves. Fry for 10 seconds.
    5. Pour the tempering over the rice and stir. Add coriander and torn mint leaves.
    6. Rest for 10 minutes so the flavours mingle, then serve in bowls with plenty of the water.

    Tips

    • Overnight fermentation in hot weather can go too sour; in peak summer 6-8 hours is enough.
    • Use a starchy local rice rather than basmati – the grains soften and give the water body.
    • Serve with a squeeze of lime and raw onion if you skip the curd.

    Serve with

    Fried fish or badi chura, aloo bharta and a slice of raw onion.

  • Hyderabadi Chicken Dum Biryani

    Hyderabadi biryani grew out of the kitchens of the Nizams, and its most prized form is the kachchi style, where raw marinated meat and par-boiled rice are layered and cooked together under a seal. The meat cooks in the steam of the rice while the rice absorbs the juices of the meat. Getting both done at once is the test of a biryani cook.

    The finished biryani has long, separate grains of basmati in white, yellow and saffron-orange, with tender chicken that is spiced, tangy from curd and lemon, and fragrant with mint, fried onions and kewra. It is the dish of every Hyderabadi wedding and Eid, and of countless Sunday lunches. Every family guards its own ratio of rice to meat and its own garam masala blend.

    At a glance

    RegionTelangana
    CuisineHyderabadi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseRice
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time60 minutes
    Total time100 minutes
    Serves5
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / basmati rice / curd / fried onions / saffron

    Ingredients

    For the marinade

    • 1 kg chicken, large bone-in pieces
    • 1 cup thick curd
    • 1.5 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1.5 tsp garam masala
    • 1/2 tsp shahi jeera, crushed
    • 4 green chillies, slit
    • 1/2 cup chopped mint
    • 1/2 cup chopped coriander
    • 1 cup birista (fried onions from 3 large onions)
    • 3 tbsp lemon juice
    • 3 tbsp ghee
    • 2 tbsp oil from frying the onions
    • 1.5 tsp salt

    For the rice

    • 3 cups aged basmati rice, soaked 30 minutes
    • 12 cups water
    • 2 tbsp salt
    • 4 green cardamoms, 4 cloves, 1 inch cinnamon, 2 bay leaves
    • 1 tsp shahi jeera
    • 1 tbsp oil

    For layering

    • a large pinch of saffron in 1/4 cup warm milk
    • 3 tbsp ghee
    • 2 tbsp chopped mint
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 1/2 cup birista
    • 1 tsp kewra water
    • atta dough for sealing

    Method

    1. Mix all the marinade ingredients into the chicken in the heavy, wide pot you will cook the biryani in. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight. Bring to room temperature before cooking.
    2. Bring 12 cups of water to a rolling boil with the salt, whole spices, shahi jeera and oil. The water should taste distinctly salty.
    3. Add the drained rice. Boil on high heat and start checking at 4 minutes: when the grains are about 70 percent cooked, they break when pressed but still have a firm core, scoop out a third of the rice with a slotted spoon and spread it over the chicken.
    4. Boil the remaining rice for another minute and layer half of it over the first layer. Cook the rest another minute until about 85 percent done and spread it on top. Drain well, so very little water goes into the pot.
    5. Drizzle the saffron milk, ghee and kewra water over the rice and scatter mint, coriander and the remaining birista.
    6. Seal the lid with a rope of atta dough, or cover tightly with foil and then the lid.
    7. Cook on high heat for 5 minutes until you hear the marinade sizzle and steam starts to build. Then place the pot on a hot iron tawa and cook on low heat for 35-40 minutes.
    8. Switch off and rest for 10 minutes. Open the seal and serve by scooping from the side so each portion has chicken from the bottom and rice from all layers.

    Tips

    • Use a heavy pot and a tawa underneath during dum to prevent the chicken from burning.
    • Large chicken pieces with bone hold up to the long dum without drying out.
    • Aged basmati gives long, separate grains; new-crop rice breaks.

    Serve with

    Mirchi ka salan and onion-cucumber raita (burani).

  • Vangi Bath

    Vangi bath, brinjal rice, is one of the classic chitranna-style mixed rices of Karnataka, served in Bengaluru and Mysuru homes and in Udupi restaurants. It uses small purple or green brinjals cooked with a special masala of roasted chana dal, urad dal, coriander, red chillies, cinnamon, cloves and dry coconut, and then mixed with cooked rice.

    Each grain is coated in a reddish-brown masala, with soft brinjal pieces throughout. The flavour is warm and slightly tangy, with sweetness from jaggery and crunch from peanuts or cashews. It is popular as a lunchbox meal and as a light weekend lunch with raita. It also packs well for picnics and train journeys because it tastes good at room temperature.

    At a glance

    RegionKarnataka
    CuisineKannada
    DietVegan
    CourseRice
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time45 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / brinjal / tamarind / dry coconut / peanuts

    Ingredients

    For the vangi bath powder

    • 1 tbsp chana dal
    • 1 tbsp urad dal
    • 2 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 6 Byadgi chillies
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 3 cloves
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 2 tbsp dry coconut (kopra), grated

    For the bath

    • 3 cups cooked rice, cooled
    • 250 g small brinjals, cut into thin strips
    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp chana dal
    • 1 tsp urad dal
    • 2 tbsp peanuts
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 1/4 tsp asafoetida
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tbsp thick tamarind paste
    • 1 tsp grated jaggery
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Dry roast the chana dal, urad dal, coriander, chillies, cinnamon, cloves and fenugreek on low heat for 4-5 minutes until golden and fragrant. Add the coconut and roast 1 minute more. Cool and grind to a fine powder.
    2. Keep the cut brinjals in salted water until needed so they do not discolour, then drain.
    3. Heat oil in a wide kadai. Fry the peanuts until crunchy, then add mustard seeds. When they splutter add chana dal and urad dal and fry until golden. Add curry leaves, asafoetida and turmeric.
    4. Add the brinjals and salt and toss. Cover and cook on medium-low heat for 6-8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the brinjals are soft but not mushy.
    5. Add the tamarind paste and jaggery and cook for 2 minutes until the raw smell goes.
    6. Add 2.5 tbsp of the vangi bath powder and stir for 1 minute until the brinjals are coated.
    7. Add the rice and gently fold everything together on low heat for 2 minutes until evenly mixed. Taste and add more powder or salt if needed.
    8. Garnish with coriander and serve warm.

    Tips

    • Use small, tender brinjals with few seeds.
    • Cooked rice should be cool and separate, or the bath turns mushy.
    • A tablespoon of ghee mixed in at the end adds a lovely richness.

    Serve with

    Onion-cucumber raita and papad or potato chips.

  • Malabar Chicken Biryani

    The biryani of the Malabar coast, especially from Thalassery and Kozhikode, is quite different from the biryanis of the north and of Hyderabad. It uses jeerakasala or kaima rice, a short, fragrant grain, and much less chilli. The influence of Arab traders and the Mappila Muslim community shows in its generous use of ghee, fennel and fried cashews and raisins.

    The chicken masala is cooked separately with plenty of onions, tomatoes, green chillies and ginger-garlic, and the rice is cooked in ghee and stock. The two are layered and sealed on dum. The result is aromatic and gently spiced, rich with ghee, with sweetness from fried onions. It is the dish of weddings and Eid in Malabar.

    At a glance

    RegionKerala
    CuisineMalabar
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseRice
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time75 minutes
    Total time115 minutes
    Serves5
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / kaima rice / ghee / onion / curd

    Ingredients

    For the chicken masala

    • 1 kg chicken, biryani cut
    • 4 tbsp ghee or oil
    • 4 large onions, thinly sliced
    • 8 green chillies, crushed
    • 2 inch ginger and 12 garlic cloves, crushed to a paste
    • 2 tomatoes, chopped
    • 1/2 cup curd
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1.5 tsp garam masala
    • 1/2 cup chopped coriander and mint
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1.5 tsp salt

    For the rice

    • 3 cups kaima / jeerakasala rice, washed and drained 20 minutes
    • 3 tbsp ghee
    • 1 inch cinnamon, 4 cloves, 4 cardamoms
    • 1 bay leaf
    • 1 small onion, sliced
    • 4.5 cups boiling water
    • 1.5 tsp salt
    • 1 tsp lemon juice

    For garnish

    • 3 tbsp ghee
    • 1 large onion, thinly sliced
    • 15 cashews
    • 2 tbsp raisins
    • 1/4 cup chopped coriander and mint
    • pinch of saffron in 2 tbsp milk (optional)

    Method

    1. For garnish, heat 3 tbsp ghee and fry the sliced onion on medium heat for 10-12 minutes until deep golden and crisp. Remove. Fry cashews and raisins in the same ghee, remove, and keep the ghee.
    2. For the masala, heat ghee in a heavy pan and fry the 4 onions on medium heat for 10 minutes until soft and light golden. Add the crushed green chillies and ginger-garlic and saute 3 minutes.
    3. Add tomatoes, turmeric, chilli powder and salt and cook until the tomatoes melt. Add the chicken and toss on high heat for 5 minutes.
    4. Stir in curd, garam masala and half the coriander and mint. Cover and cook on low heat for 20 minutes, without adding water, until the chicken is tender and the masala is thick. Add lemon juice.
    5. For the rice, heat 3 tbsp ghee in a large pot. Fry the whole spices, bay leaf and onion for 2 minutes. Add the drained rice and fry gently for 2-3 minutes until the grains turn opaque.
    6. Pour in the boiling water, salt and lemon juice. Cook covered on low heat for 10-12 minutes until the water is absorbed and the rice is just cooked with separate grains.
    7. To layer, spread half the rice over the chicken masala in its pot (or layer in a separate pot: masala, rice, garnish, rice). Sprinkle half the fried onions, cashews, raisins, herbs and a spoon of the reserved ghee. Top with the remaining rice and garnish, and drizzle saffron milk.
    8. Seal the lid with dough or foil, place the pot on a hot tawa and cook on the lowest heat for 20 minutes. Rest 10 minutes before opening and mix gently from the side while serving.

    Tips

    • Kaima rice is essential for the Malabar taste and texture; basmati makes a different dish.
    • The masala is cooked in the juices of chicken, curd and onions alone; adding water makes it soggy.
    • Fry the garnish onions thin and slow so they turn crisp, not bitter.

    Serve with

    Coconut and date chutney, raita with onion and cucumber, pappadam and lime pickle.