The biryani of the Malabar coast, especially from Thalassery and Kozhikode, is quite different from the biryanis of the north and of Hyderabad. It uses jeerakasala or kaima rice, a short, fragrant grain, and much less chilli. The influence of Arab traders and the Mappila Muslim community shows in its generous use of ghee, fennel and fried cashews and raisins.
The chicken masala is cooked separately with plenty of onions, tomatoes, green chillies and ginger-garlic, and the rice is cooked in ghee and stock. The two are layered and sealed on dum. The result is aromatic and gently spiced, rich with ghee, with sweetness from fried onions. It is the dish of weddings and Eid in Malabar.
At a glance
| Region | Kerala |
|---|---|
| Cuisine | Malabar |
| Diet | Non-vegetarian |
| Course | Rice |
| Prep time | 40 minutes |
| Cook time | 75 minutes |
| Total time | 115 minutes |
| Serves | 5 |
| Spice level | Medium |
| Difficulty | Hard |
| Gluten-free | Yes |
| Key ingredients | chicken / kaima rice / ghee / onion / curd |
Ingredients
For the chicken masala
- 1 kg chicken, biryani cut
- 4 tbsp ghee or oil
- 4 large onions, thinly sliced
- 8 green chillies, crushed
- 2 inch ginger and 12 garlic cloves, crushed to a paste
- 2 tomatoes, chopped
- 1/2 cup curd
- 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
- 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
- 1.5 tsp garam masala
- 1/2 cup chopped coriander and mint
- 1 tbsp lemon juice
- 1.5 tsp salt
For the rice
- 3 cups kaima / jeerakasala rice, washed and drained 20 minutes
- 3 tbsp ghee
- 1 inch cinnamon, 4 cloves, 4 cardamoms
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 small onion, sliced
- 4.5 cups boiling water
- 1.5 tsp salt
- 1 tsp lemon juice
For garnish
- 3 tbsp ghee
- 1 large onion, thinly sliced
- 15 cashews
- 2 tbsp raisins
- 1/4 cup chopped coriander and mint
- pinch of saffron in 2 tbsp milk (optional)
Method
- For garnish, heat 3 tbsp ghee and fry the sliced onion on medium heat for 10-12 minutes until deep golden and crisp. Remove. Fry cashews and raisins in the same ghee, remove, and keep the ghee.
- For the masala, heat ghee in a heavy pan and fry the 4 onions on medium heat for 10 minutes until soft and light golden. Add the crushed green chillies and ginger-garlic and saute 3 minutes.
- Add tomatoes, turmeric, chilli powder and salt and cook until the tomatoes melt. Add the chicken and toss on high heat for 5 minutes.
- Stir in curd, garam masala and half the coriander and mint. Cover and cook on low heat for 20 minutes, without adding water, until the chicken is tender and the masala is thick. Add lemon juice.
- For the rice, heat 3 tbsp ghee in a large pot. Fry the whole spices, bay leaf and onion for 2 minutes. Add the drained rice and fry gently for 2-3 minutes until the grains turn opaque.
- Pour in the boiling water, salt and lemon juice. Cook covered on low heat for 10-12 minutes until the water is absorbed and the rice is just cooked with separate grains.
- To layer, spread half the rice over the chicken masala in its pot (or layer in a separate pot: masala, rice, garnish, rice). Sprinkle half the fried onions, cashews, raisins, herbs and a spoon of the reserved ghee. Top with the remaining rice and garnish, and drizzle saffron milk.
- Seal the lid with dough or foil, place the pot on a hot tawa and cook on the lowest heat for 20 minutes. Rest 10 minutes before opening and mix gently from the side while serving.
Tips
- Kaima rice is essential for the Malabar taste and texture; basmati makes a different dish.
- The masala is cooked in the juices of chicken, curd and onions alone; adding water makes it soggy.
- Fry the garnish onions thin and slow so they turn crisp, not bitter.
Serve with
Coconut and date chutney, raita with onion and cucumber, pappadam and lime pickle.