RAG Demo

Tag: Side Dish

  • Begun Bhaja

    Begun bhaja is the simplest of Bengali fries and one of the most loved. A plate of hot rice, dal and a slice of fried brinjal is everyday comfort, and begun bhaja is also one of the five fries traditionally served at Saraswati Puja and with khichuri on rainy days.

    Large round brinjals are cut into thick discs, scored, coated in a dry rub of turmeric, chilli powder, salt and a pinch of sugar, and shallow fried in mustard oil. The outside turns brown and slightly crisp while the inside goes soft and custardy. Some families dust the slices with a little rice flour or besan for extra crunch.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietVegan
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time15 minutes
    Total time30 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbrinjal / mustard oil / turmeric

    Ingredients

    • 1 large round brinjal (about 400 g)
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp sugar
    • 3/4 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp rice flour (optional, for crispness)
    • 5-6 tbsp mustard oil

    Method

    1. Cut the brinjal into 1.5 cm thick round slices. Lightly score both sides of each slice in a criss-cross pattern so the spices penetrate.
    2. Mix turmeric, chilli powder, sugar and salt. Rub the mixture evenly on both sides of every slice and leave for 10 minutes. The slices will release a little moisture.
    3. If using rice flour, pat a thin dusting on both sides of each slice and shake off the excess.
    4. Heat mustard oil in a flat frying pan until it smokes, then reduce the heat to medium.
    5. Place the slices in a single layer. Fry for 4-5 minutes until the underside is deep golden brown.
    6. Flip, add a little more oil around the edges if the pan looks dry, cover and cook on medium-low for 3-4 minutes until a knife slides through the centre easily.
    7. Remove onto a plate and serve immediately while the edges are still crisp.

    Tips

    • Brinjal soaks up oil quickly; resting the salted slices first draws out moisture and means they absorb less.
    • Covering the pan after flipping steams the centre so the slice is cooked through before the outside burns.
    • Choose a brinjal that is heavy and glossy with few seeds.

    Serve with

    Hot rice with masoor dal, or with khichuri on a rainy day.

  • Shukto

    Shukto is the opening course of a traditional Bengali lunch, served with the first mouthfuls of rice to stimulate the appetite and, by old belief, cleanse the palate. It shows up at weddings, at shraddha meals and on summer afternoons, when its bitterness is thought to cool the body. Every family has its own mix of vegetables and its own balance of bitter and sweet.

    The taste is subtle rather than harsh. Bitter gourd sets the tone, while raw banana, sweet potato, drumsticks, brinjal and broad beans add softness and sweetness. The sauce is thickened with a little mustard and poppy seed paste and finished with milk and ghee, and the tempering of radhuni or panch phoron gives it a distinct aroma. Bori, sun-dried lentil dumplings, add crunch.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbitter gourd / raw banana / sweet potato / drumstick / milk

    Ingredients

    Vegetables

    • 1 small bitter gourd, thinly sliced into rounds
    • 1 raw banana, peeled and cut into batons
    • 1 small sweet potato, cut into batons
    • 1 drumstick, cut into 7 cm pieces
    • 1 small brinjal, cut into batons
    • 8-10 broad beans (sheem), stringed
    • 1/2 cup bori (dried lentil dumplings)

    For the paste and sauce

    • 1 tbsp yellow mustard seeds
    • 1 tbsp poppy seeds
    • 1 inch ginger
    • 3 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1 tbsp ghee
    • 1 tsp panch phoron or 1/2 tsp radhuni
    • 2 bay leaves
    • 1/2 cup milk
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1 cup water
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Soak the mustard and poppy seeds in warm water for 20 minutes, then grind with the ginger and a pinch of salt into a smooth paste.
    2. Heat the mustard oil in a kadhai until smoking, then lower to medium. Fry the bori for 1-2 minutes until golden and remove. In the same oil fry the bitter gourd slices for 3-4 minutes until lightly browned; remove and keep aside.
    3. Add the ghee to the pan, then the panch phoron and bay leaves. Let them crackle for 15 seconds.
    4. Add the raw banana, sweet potato, drumstick, brinjal and beans. Stir-fry on medium heat for 5 minutes until the edges lightly colour.
    5. Add salt and 1 cup water. Cover and cook on low-medium heat for 10-12 minutes until the vegetables are tender but still hold their shape.
    6. Stir in the mustard-poppy paste, sugar and the fried bitter gourd and bori. Simmer for 3 minutes on low heat.
    7. Pour in the milk and stir gently. Simmer for another 2-3 minutes until the sauce is creamy and lightly thickened, then finish with a spoon of ghee.

    Tips

    • Fry the bitter gourd separately and add it at the end so its bitterness stays in check and does not overwhelm the stew.
    • Stir gently with a flat spatula; the vegetables should stay in distinct pieces, not turn mushy.
    • Radhuni (wild celery seed) gives the most authentic aroma; if unavailable, a pinch of ajwain can stand in.

    Serve with

    The first course of rice at a Bengali lunch, followed by dal and fish.

  • Aloo Posto

    Aloo posto is everyday Bengali food at its most comforting. Poppy seeds, or posto, became central to the cooking of the Rarh region – Bankura, Birbhum and Burdwan – in the nineteenth century, when opium cultivation under the British left the seeds cheap and plentiful. Families there still eat some form of posto almost every day.

    The dish is pale, creamy and nutty, with only green chillies for heat and a last drizzle of raw mustard oil for bite. Potatoes cut into cubes soak up the paste until it coats them thickly. It is eaten as part of a traditional lunch after a bitter shukto and before the dal, mixed into hot rice with a squeeze of lime.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietVegan
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time35 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspotato / poppy seeds / green chilli / mustard oil

    Ingredients

    • 4 medium potatoes (about 500 g), peeled and cut into 2 cm cubes
    • 5 tbsp white poppy seeds (posto)
    • 4 green chillies (2 for paste, 2 slit)
    • 3 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1/2 tsp kalonji (nigella seeds)
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder (optional)
    • 1/2 tsp sugar
    • 1 cup water
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Soak the poppy seeds in warm water for 30 minutes. Drain and grind with 2 green chillies and 2-3 tbsp water to a smooth, thick paste. Stone-ground on a sil-nora is traditional; a mixer works if you grind in bursts and scrape down often.
    2. Heat 2 tbsp mustard oil in a kadhai until it smokes, then lower the heat to medium. Add the kalonji and slit green chillies and let them sizzle for 10 seconds.
    3. Add the potato cubes and turmeric if using. Stir-fry for 4-5 minutes until the edges look lightly translucent but not browned.
    4. Add salt and 1 cup water, cover and cook on low-medium heat for 8-10 minutes until the potatoes are just tender and most of the water has been absorbed.
    5. Stir in the poppy seed paste and sugar. Cook uncovered on low heat for 3-4 minutes, stirring gently, until the paste thickens and coats the potatoes. Add a splash of water if it gets too dry.
    6. Turn off the heat and drizzle the remaining 1 tbsp raw mustard oil over the top. Mix lightly and serve warm.

    Tips

    • Do not cook the posto paste for long – once it loses its moisture it turns grainy and slightly bitter.
    • Add a few pieces of jhinge (ridge gourd) or onion along with the potatoes for the popular variations jhinge aloo posto and peyaj posto.
    • Poppy seeds are restricted for import or carriage in some countries; check before travelling with them.

    Serve with

    Hot steamed rice and masoor dal, with a wedge of lime.

  • Mirchi ka Salan

    Mirchi ka salan is a Hyderabadi curry of long, mildly hot green chillies cooked in a nutty, sour gravy. It is the traditional accompaniment to biryani, and no Hyderabadi wedding feast serves biryani without it. The gravy, made of roasted peanuts, sesame and dry coconut with tamarind, is closely related to the base used for bagara baingan.

    The salan is thick, tangy and slightly sweet, with a deep nutty flavour from the roasted seeds. The chillies are slit, fried and then simmered so they turn soft and absorb the gravy without losing their shape. It cuts through the richness of biryani, and many people also eat it with plain rice or roti.

    At a glance

    RegionTelangana
    CuisineHyderabadi
    DietVegan
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsgreen chillies / peanuts / sesame seeds / dry coconut / tamarind

    Ingredients

    For the chillies

    • 250 g long, thick, mild green chillies (bhavnagari or banana peppers)
    • 3 tbsp oil

    For the paste

    • 3 tbsp raw peanuts
    • 2 tbsp white sesame seeds
    • 2 tbsp dry coconut, grated
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 medium onion, sliced and roasted

    For the gravy

    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/4 tsp nigella seeds (kalonji)
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 1 tsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 3 tbsp thick tamarind pulp
    • 1 tsp grated jaggery
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1.5 cups water

    Method

    1. Wash and dry the chillies. Slit each lengthwise without cutting through, and scrape out some seeds if you want less heat.
    2. Heat 3 tbsp oil in a kadai and fry the chillies on medium heat for 3-4 minutes, turning, until blistered in spots. Remove and set aside.
    3. Dry roast the peanuts for 4-5 minutes until golden, then the sesame seeds until they pop, then the coconut until light brown, and finally the coriander and cumin for a minute. Grind with the roasted onion and a little water to a smooth paste.
    4. In the same kadai, add 2 tbsp oil and splutter mustard, cumin, nigella and fenugreek seeds. Add curry leaves and ginger-garlic paste and fry for 1 minute.
    5. Add the ground paste, turmeric and chilli powder and fry on low heat for 5-6 minutes, stirring often, until the paste darkens slightly and oil begins to separate.
    6. Add tamarind pulp, jaggery, salt and water. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes.
    7. Add the fried chillies and simmer on low heat for 8-10 minutes until the gravy is thick, oil floats on top, and the chillies are tender.
    8. Rest for 30 minutes before serving; the flavour improves as it sits.

    Tips

    • Choose thick, long chillies with low heat; small spicy ones make it too fierce.
    • Roast each seed separately as they brown at different rates.
    • The salan should be thick and oily on top, not watery.

    Serve with

    Hyderabadi biryani with burani raita, or with bagara rice.

  • Erissery

    Erissery is a thick pumpkin curry from the Kerala sadya, made especially at Onam and Vishu. The name is often linked to eriv, meaning heat, a nod to its pepper and chilli, though it is not a very spicy dish. Ripe yellow pumpkin is the usual vegetable, sometimes combined with raw banana or yam, cooked with red cowpeas.

    What makes erissery special is the final topping of grated coconut fried in coconut oil with mustard seeds and curry leaves until deep brown. That roasted coconut adds crunch and a toasty aroma to the soft, sweet, partly mashed pumpkin. It is thick enough to scoop and is eaten with rice in the middle of the meal.

    At a glance

    RegionKerala
    CuisineKerala
    DietVegan
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time45 minutes
    Serves5
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsyellow pumpkin / red cowpeas / coconut / cumin / coconut oil

    Ingredients

    For the curry

    • 1/2 cup red cowpeas, soaked overnight
    • 500 g ripe yellow pumpkin, cut into 2 cm cubes
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp salt

    For the coconut paste

    • 3/4 cup grated coconut
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 2 garlic cloves
    • 2 green chillies
    • 1/2 tsp black peppercorns

    For the topping

    • 2 tbsp coconut oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 2 dry red chillies
    • 2 sprigs curry leaves
    • 1/2 cup grated coconut

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the cowpeas with 1.5 cups water for 4-5 whistles until soft.
    2. Cook the pumpkin with turmeric, chilli powder, salt and 1/2 cup water in a covered pan on medium heat for 8-10 minutes until soft.
    3. Grind the coconut, cumin, garlic, green chillies and pepper to a smooth paste with a little water.
    4. Add the cooked cowpeas to the pumpkin and mash lightly with a ladle so about half the pumpkin breaks down and the rest stays in pieces.
    5. Stir in the coconut paste and simmer on low heat for 5 minutes until thick and the raw smell is gone. Add a little water if it gets too thick.
    6. For the topping, heat coconut oil, splutter mustard seeds, add red chillies and curry leaves, then add the grated coconut. Fry on medium-low heat, stirring constantly, for 5-6 minutes until it turns deep golden brown.
    7. Pour the topping over the erissery, mix in half of it and leave the rest on top. Serve warm.

    Tips

    • Choose a ripe, sweet pumpkin with deep orange flesh.
    • Fry the coconut topping patiently; it should be evenly browned, not burnt in spots.
    • Raw plantain cubes can replace half the pumpkin for a firmer texture.

    Serve with

    Rice with sambar, pappadam and other sadya dishes.

  • Olan

    Olan is the mildest curry on the Onam sadya leaf, and it is there on purpose: after the tang of pulissery and the heat of pickles, olan cools and calms the palate. It is a simple preparation of ash gourd, sometimes with pumpkin, and red cowpeas, cooked in coconut milk with nothing more than green chillies, salt and curry leaves.

    It is pale, light and delicately sweet, with the ash gourd turning translucent and soft. There are no ground spices, no tempering and no onions in the traditional version, so the quality of the coconut milk and the fresh coconut oil at the end matter a great deal. It is eaten with rice, and many people enjoy it the next day too.

    At a glance

    RegionKerala
    CuisineKerala
    DietVegan
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time40 minutes
    Serves5
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsash gourd / red cowpeas / coconut milk / green chillies

    Ingredients

    • 1/3 cup red cowpeas (vanpayar), soaked 6 hours
    • 400 g ash gourd (kumbalanga), peeled and cut into thin 3 cm squares
    • 100 g yellow pumpkin, thinly sliced (optional)
    • 4 green chillies, slit
    • 1 cup thin coconut milk
    • 3/4 cup thick coconut milk
    • 3/4 tsp salt
    • 2 sprigs curry leaves
    • 1.5 tbsp raw coconut oil

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the soaked cowpeas with 1 cup water and a pinch of salt for 3-4 whistles until soft but whole. Drain.
    2. Put the ash gourd, pumpkin, green chillies and salt in a pan with the thin coconut milk.
    3. Cover and simmer on low-medium heat for 10-12 minutes until the ash gourd turns translucent and is soft when pressed.
    4. Add the cooked cowpeas and simmer for 2-3 minutes so they absorb the flavour.
    5. Lower the heat to the minimum and stir in the thick coconut milk. Heat gently for 1-2 minutes until just hot, without boiling, then switch off.
    6. Add the curry leaves and drizzle the coconut oil over the top. Cover and let it rest for 10 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Cut the ash gourd thin and even so it cooks quickly and uniformly.
    • Black-eyed beans can replace red cowpeas, though red cowpeas are traditional.
    • Use fresh coconut milk if possible; canned milk makes olan heavier.

    Serve with

    Kerala matta rice with sambar, thoran and pappadam as part of a sadya.

  • Beef Ularthiyathu

    Beef ularthiyathu, often called beef fry or beef roast, is a signature dish of Kerala's Syrian Christian kitchens and a fixture at weddings, Christmas and toddy shops. Ularthu means to roast or dry-fry, and that long roasting is what makes it: tender beef tossed for a long time in coconut oil until it darkens and the masala clings.

    Thin slivers of coconut, called thenga kothu, are fried until crisp and add bite. The spicing is warm and peppery, built on fennel, garam masala and black pepper, with curry leaves throughout. The finished dish is almost black, crusty at the edges and very aromatic. It is eaten with parotta, appam or rice and is often made a day ahead, since it improves overnight.

    At a glance

    RegionKerala
    CuisineSyrian Christian
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time70 minutes
    Total time95 minutes
    Serves5
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbeef / coconut slivers / shallots / black pepper / coconut oil

    Ingredients

    For cooking the beef

    • 1 kg beef, cut into 2 cm cubes
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 2 tbsp coriander powder
    • 1.5 tsp garam masala
    • 1 tsp fennel powder
    • 1.5 tsp crushed black pepper
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1.5 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp vinegar
    • 1 sprig curry leaves

    For roasting

    • 4 tbsp coconut oil
    • 1/2 cup thin coconut slivers
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 15 shallots, sliced
    • 1 inch ginger, julienned
    • 6 garlic cloves, sliced
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 3 sprigs curry leaves
    • 1 tsp crushed black pepper
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala

    Method

    1. Mix the beef with all the ingredients for cooking and marinate for at least 30 minutes.
    2. Pressure cook the beef without adding water for 5-6 whistles on medium heat, until tender. The beef will release its own juices. Let the pressure drop naturally.
    3. Heat coconut oil in a heavy, wide kadai or uruli on medium heat. Fry the coconut slivers for 4-5 minutes until golden brown. Remove and set aside.
    4. In the same oil splutter mustard seeds, then add shallots, ginger, garlic, green chillies and two sprigs of curry leaves. Fry for 8 minutes until the shallots are golden brown.
    5. Add the cooked beef with all its liquid. Cook on high heat for 8-10 minutes, stirring, until the liquid evaporates.
    6. Return the fried coconut slivers and lower the heat to medium-low. Keep roasting for 20-25 minutes, stirring and scraping the bottom every few minutes, until the beef turns very dark brown, almost black, and crisp at the edges.
    7. Add the crushed pepper, garam masala and remaining curry leaves, toss for 2 more minutes and switch off.

    Tips

    • A cast-iron or heavy aluminium kadai gives the best crust; nonstick pans do not let the masala caramelise.
    • Add a spoon of coconut oil during roasting if the pan looks dry.
    • The flavour deepens overnight; reheat in a pan with a little oil to re-crisp.

    Serve with

    Kerala parotta, appam or matta rice with moru curry.

  • Cabbage Thoran

    Thoran is the everyday dry vegetable dish of Kerala, served at almost every lunch and always part of the sadya. Any vegetable can be made into a thoran, but cabbage is the most common because it is cheap and cooks fast. The defining feature is the coconut mix, which is crushed, not ground, so it stays fluffy and moist.

    The cabbage is shredded very fine and cooked until just tender, keeping a little bite. The result is light, slightly sweet, mildly hot from green chillies, with turmeric-tinted flecks of coconut throughout. A spoon of thoran on the side of rice and fish curry or sambar is a staple Malayali plate.

    At a glance

    RegionKerala
    CuisineKerala
    DietVegan
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time10 minutes
    Total time25 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientscabbage / coconut / green chillies / shallots

    Ingredients

    For the coconut mix

    • 3/4 cup grated coconut
    • 2 green chillies
    • 2 garlic cloves
    • 3 shallots
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder

    For the thoran

    • 400 g cabbage (about half a medium head), finely shredded
    • 1.5 tbsp coconut oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp urad dal
    • 2 dry red chillies, broken
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 3/4 tsp salt

    Method

    1. Pulse the coconut, green chillies, garlic, shallots, cumin and turmeric in a grinder for 2-3 short bursts without water, or crush in a mortar, until coarse and fluffy.
    2. Toss the shredded cabbage with the coconut mix and salt by hand. Set aside for 5 minutes.
    3. Heat coconut oil in a wide kadai on medium heat. Add mustard seeds, and when they splutter add urad dal, red chillies and curry leaves. Fry until the dal is golden.
    4. Add the cabbage mixture and toss well to coat in the tempering.
    5. Make a well in the centre, cover and cook on low heat for 4-5 minutes. The cabbage will steam in its own moisture; no water is needed.
    6. Uncover and stir-fry on medium heat for 2-3 minutes until the cabbage is just tender and any moisture has evaporated. It should be dry and fluffy, not soggy. Serve warm.

    Tips

    • Shred the cabbage as fine as you can; thick pieces need water and lose their crunch.
    • Mixing the coconut in before cooking, as Kerala homes do, gives a more even flavour than adding it at the end.
    • The same method works for beans, beetroot or carrot.

    Serve with

    Kerala matta rice with sambar, moru curry or fish curry.

  • Avial

    Avial is one of the essential dishes of the Onam sadya and appears on almost every Kerala feast. A popular story credits Bhima, the Pandava, with inventing it while working as a cook in disguise, throwing together whatever vegetables were at hand. Regional versions differ: central Kerala uses curd for sourness, while some northern homes use raw mango or tamarind.

    The vegetables are cut into finger-length batons and cooked until just tender, then coated with a coarsely ground coconut paste. The dish is thick, not watery, mildly spiced, tangy and fragrant with raw coconut oil and curry leaves. It is eaten with rice as part of a spread, and with adai in Tamil Nadu.

    At a glance

    RegionKerala
    CuisineKerala
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time45 minutes
    Serves5
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmixed vegetables / coconut / curd / coconut oil / curry leaves

    Ingredients

    For the vegetables

    • 4 cups mixed vegetables cut into 5 cm batons: raw banana, elephant foot yam, ash gourd, drumstick, carrot, French beans, snake gourd, cucumber
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/2 cup water

    For the coconut paste

    • 1.25 cups grated coconut
    • 3-4 green chillies
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 2 shallots

    To finish

    • 1/2 cup thick curd, lightly sour, whisked
    • 2 sprigs curry leaves
    • 2 tbsp raw coconut oil

    Method

    1. Cut all vegetables into batons of similar length and thickness. Keep the raw banana in water to stop it darkening.
    2. Put the yam and raw banana, which take longest, in a wide pan with turmeric, salt and 1/2 cup water. Cover and cook on medium heat for 5 minutes.
    3. Add carrot, beans and drumstick and cook covered for 4 minutes. Then add ash gourd, snake gourd and cucumber and cook another 4-5 minutes, until all vegetables are tender but hold their shape.
    4. Meanwhile pulse the coconut, green chillies, cumin and shallots in a grinder with a splash of water to a coarse paste. It should not be smooth.
    5. Add the coconut paste to the vegetables and fold gently. Cook on low heat for 3-4 minutes, uncovered, until any remaining water dries up and the raw coconut smell goes.
    6. Switch off the heat and let it cool for a minute, then stir in the whisked curd gently.
    7. Crush the curry leaves in your hand, scatter them over and drizzle with raw coconut oil. Cover and leave for 10 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Stir gently with a flat spatula or by shaking the pan; avial vegetables should not be mashed.
    • Add curd off the heat so it does not split.
    • Unrefined virgin coconut oil, added raw at the end, gives avial its signature aroma.

    Serve with

    Rice with sambar and pappadam as part of a sadya, or with adai.

  • Mutton Chukka

    Chukka means dry, and mutton chukka or chukka varuval is a fixture of Madurai and Chettinad military hotels, the old non-vegetarian eateries of Tamil Nadu. Unlike a kuzhambu it has no gravy; the meat is cooked until tender and then roasted in a kadai with shallots and spices until everything clings to the pieces.

    The flavour leans on black pepper and fennel rather than chilli powder, with gingelly oil and curry leaves giving it its southern character. The mutton should be tender inside and slightly caramelised outside, dark brown and coated in a thick masala. It is usually served as a side with rice and rasam, or as a starter.

    At a glance

    RegionTamil Nadu
    CuisineTamil
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time70 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / shallots / black pepper / fennel / curry leaves

    Ingredients

    For pressure cooking

    • 500 g mutton (goat), small bone-in pieces
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 tsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1/2 cup water

    For the roast

    • 3 tbsp gingelly oil
    • 1 tsp fennel seeds
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 2 cloves
    • 2 sprigs curry leaves
    • 20 shallots, sliced
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1.5 tsp coriander powder
    • 1.5 tsp freshly crushed black pepper
    • 1/2 tsp fennel powder
    • salt to taste
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the mutton with turmeric, salt, ginger-garlic paste and 1/2 cup water for 5-6 whistles on medium heat, until tender. Let the pressure release naturally. Do not discard the stock.
    2. Heat gingelly oil in a heavy kadai on medium heat. Add fennel seeds, cinnamon and cloves and fry for a few seconds until fragrant.
    3. Add one sprig of curry leaves and the shallots and fry for 8-10 minutes until deep golden brown. This browning gives the chukka its colour.
    4. Add ginger-garlic paste and green chillies and fry for 2 minutes.
    5. Lower the heat and add chilli powder and coriander powder. Stir for 30 seconds, adding a splash of the mutton stock if the masala starts to stick.
    6. Add the cooked mutton with its stock. Cook on medium-high heat, stirring, for 10-12 minutes until the liquid evaporates.
    7. Add crushed pepper, fennel powder and the second sprig of curry leaves. Keep roasting on medium heat for another 5-8 minutes, scraping the pan, until the mutton turns dark brown, the masala coats each piece and oil separates.
    8. Check salt, finish with coriander leaves and serve hot.

    Tips

    • Use mutton from the shoulder or leg with some fat; very lean meat turns dry when roasted.
    • Crush the pepper fresh just before adding; pre-ground pepper lacks the punch this dish needs.
    • Patience in the final roasting stage is what separates chukka from a semi-dry curry.

    Serve with

    Rice with rasam or a light dal, or as a starter with sliced onions and lemon.