Olan is the mildest curry on the Onam sadya leaf, and it is there on purpose: after the tang of pulissery and the heat of pickles, olan cools and calms the palate. It is a simple preparation of ash gourd, sometimes with pumpkin, and red cowpeas, cooked in coconut milk with nothing more than green chillies, salt and curry leaves.
It is pale, light and delicately sweet, with the ash gourd turning translucent and soft. There are no ground spices, no tempering and no onions in the traditional version, so the quality of the coconut milk and the fresh coconut oil at the end matter a great deal. It is eaten with rice, and many people enjoy it the next day too.
At a glance
| Region | Kerala |
|---|---|
| Cuisine | Kerala |
| Diet | Vegan |
| Course | Side dish |
| Prep time | 15 minutes |
| Cook time | 25 minutes |
| Total time | 40 minutes |
| Serves | 5 |
| Spice level | Mild |
| Difficulty | Easy |
| Gluten-free | Yes |
| Key ingredients | ash gourd / red cowpeas / coconut milk / green chillies |
Ingredients
- 1/3 cup red cowpeas (vanpayar), soaked 6 hours
- 400 g ash gourd (kumbalanga), peeled and cut into thin 3 cm squares
- 100 g yellow pumpkin, thinly sliced (optional)
- 4 green chillies, slit
- 1 cup thin coconut milk
- 3/4 cup thick coconut milk
- 3/4 tsp salt
- 2 sprigs curry leaves
- 1.5 tbsp raw coconut oil
Method
- Pressure cook the soaked cowpeas with 1 cup water and a pinch of salt for 3-4 whistles until soft but whole. Drain.
- Put the ash gourd, pumpkin, green chillies and salt in a pan with the thin coconut milk.
- Cover and simmer on low-medium heat for 10-12 minutes until the ash gourd turns translucent and is soft when pressed.
- Add the cooked cowpeas and simmer for 2-3 minutes so they absorb the flavour.
- Lower the heat to the minimum and stir in the thick coconut milk. Heat gently for 1-2 minutes until just hot, without boiling, then switch off.
- Add the curry leaves and drizzle the coconut oil over the top. Cover and let it rest for 10 minutes before serving.
Tips
- Cut the ash gourd thin and even so it cooks quickly and uniformly.
- Black-eyed beans can replace red cowpeas, though red cowpeas are traditional.
- Use fresh coconut milk if possible; canned milk makes olan heavier.
Serve with
Kerala matta rice with sambar, thoran and pappadam as part of a sadya.