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Tag: Hot spice

  • Ker Sangri

    Ker sangri is the true taste of the Thar. Sangri are the long, thin pods of the khejri tree, and ker are small, sour wild berries from a thorny desert shrub. Both grow without irrigation in the harshest parts of western Rajasthan, and they are harvested, sun-dried and stored, so families had a vegetable dish available even in the dry months.

    Once soaked and boiled, sangri has a chewy, earthy texture and ker a sharp, slightly bitter tang. Cooked with mustard oil, red chilli, amchur, cumin and fennel, the dish is dry, sour and spicy, and keeps for several days without refrigeration, which is why it was a favourite for long journeys and festivals. Dried kumatiya seeds and raisins are sometimes added in the panchkuta version.

    It is eaten with bajra roti, puri or as part of a royal Rajasthani thali, and is often served at weddings. A little goes a long way alongside dal and roti. Dried ker and sangri are sold in Rajasthani grocery shops and online, and keep for a year in an airtight jar. Soaking overnight is essential, so plan this dish a day ahead.

    At a glance

    RegionRajasthan
    CuisineRajasthani
    DietVegan
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time480 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time510 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientssangri / ker / mustard oil / amchur / red chilli

    Ingredients

    • 1 cup dried sangri
    • 1/3 cup dried ker
    • 4 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp saunf
    • 3 dried red chillies
    • 1 tbsp coriander powder
    • 1 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 2 tsp amchur
    • 1 tbsp raisins (optional)
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Wash the sangri and ker separately in several changes of water and soak them in plenty of water for 8 hours or overnight.
    2. Drain and rinse again. Boil both together in fresh salted water for 15 to 20 minutes, or pressure cook for 2 whistles, until the sangri is soft but still has a little bite.
    3. Drain well, discarding the water. Break any long sangri pods into 5 cm pieces.
    4. Heat mustard oil in a kadai until it smokes, then lower the heat to medium. Add hing, cumin, saunf and dried red chillies.
    5. Mix the coriander powder, chilli powder and turmeric with 2 tbsp water to a paste and add it to the oil. Fry 1 minute until the oil separates.
    6. Add the ker and sangri, raisins and salt. Toss well and cook on medium for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring often, until everything is coated and slightly dry.
    7. Sprinkle the amchur, toss for a final minute so it coats the pods evenly, and switch off.

    Tips

    • Soak well; under-soaked sangri stays tough and woody.
    • Making the spice paste with water stops the powdered spices from burning in the hot oil.
    • Ker sangri keeps for 3 to 4 days at room temperature in cool weather, making it good travel food.

    Serve with

    Bajra roti or puris, with dal and buttermilk.

  • Laal Maas

    Laal maas, or red meat, comes from the Rajput royal kitchens, where it was originally made with wild boar or venison brought back from hunts. The strong chilli and garlic masked the gamey flavour of the meat, and the dish became a symbol of Rajasthani bravado. Today it is made with goat, and Jodhpur and Jaisalmer are famous for their versions.

    Its fiery red colour comes from Mathania chillies, a variety grown near Jodhpur that is deep red, aromatic and genuinely hot. The mutton is cooked slowly in ghee with yogurt, whole spices and plenty of garlic, until the gravy is thin, intensely red and topped with a layer of chilli-tinted ghee. A smoky finish from a hot coal is traditional.

    It is served with bajra roti, plain rice or makki ki roti, and a glass of buttermilk to cool the heat. It is a dish for winter feasts and gatherings rather than everyday meals. Mathania chillies can be hard to find outside Rajasthan; a blend of Kashmiri chillies for colour and Byadgi or a few hotter chillies for heat works well. Deseeding them controls the heat without losing the colour.

    At a glance

    RegionRajasthan
    CuisineRajasthani
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time90 minutes
    Total time110 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / Mathania red chillies / yogurt / garlic / ghee

    Ingredients

    For the chilli paste

    • 15 to 20 dried Mathania red chillies (or 10 Kashmiri + 6 Byadgi), deseeded and soaked in hot water 30 minutes
    • 15 garlic cloves

    For the curry

    • 750 g bone-in mutton, curry cut
    • 1 cup curd, whisked
    • 1/2 cup ghee
    • 2 large onions, thinly sliced
    • 4 green cardamom, 2 black cardamom, 6 cloves, 2 bay leaves
    • 2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 cups hot water
    • Chopped coriander

    For the dhungar

    • 1 piece charcoal
    • 1 tsp ghee
    • 2 cloves

    Method

    1. Grind the soaked chillies with garlic and 2 tbsp of the soaking water to a smooth paste.
    2. Marinate the mutton with curd, half the chilli paste, coriander powder, turmeric and salt for at least 1 hour.
    3. Heat ghee in a heavy pot on medium. Add the whole spices and let them sizzle, then add onions and fry 10 to 12 minutes until golden brown.
    4. Add the remaining chilli paste and fry on low for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring, until the raw garlic smell goes and the ghee turns deep red.
    5. Add the marinated mutton and cook on medium-high for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring often, until the meat is seared and the marinade has thickened and starts to leave ghee.
    6. Pour in the hot water, bring to a boil, then cover and simmer on low for 60 to 70 minutes until the mutton is tender and the gravy is thin and red with ghee floating on top.
    7. For the dhungar, heat the charcoal on a flame until glowing. Place it in a small steel bowl set in the curry, add cloves and ghee on top, and cover the pot tightly for 5 minutes. Remove the bowl.
    8. Garnish with coriander and serve.

    Tips

    • Taste the chilli paste before using it; Mathania heat varies from batch to batch, so adjust the quantity.
    • Fry the chilli paste patiently on low heat; rushing it makes the curry bitter.
    • Laal maas tastes better after resting for a few hours.

    Serve with

    Bajra roti or steamed rice, with chaas and sliced onion.

  • Litti Chokha

    Litti chokha is the signature dish of Bihar and eastern Uttar Pradesh, once a travellers' meal because it keeps well and needs no utensils to cook. It is said that soldiers and farmers baked littis in the embers of cow-dung fires, and today the street vendors of Patna still roast them over coal in wide clay ovens.

    The litti is a ball of whole wheat dough stuffed with sattu, roasted gram flour, mixed with mustard oil, garlic, ginger, ajwain, lemon, green chillies and the sour tang of pickle masala. Roasted until the crust is firm and slightly charred, it is cracked and dipped in ghee. Chokha is the smoky accompaniment: fire-roasted brinjal, tomato and boiled potato mashed with raw mustard oil, garlic and onion.

    It is eaten for lunch or dinner, at festivals and picnics, and has become popular across North India. The pungency of raw mustard oil is essential to both parts. An oven gives good results at home, though nothing quite matches the smoky flavour of coal-roasted littis. The chokha can be made while the littis bake, so both are ready together and can be served piping hot.

    At a glance

    RegionBihar
    CuisineBihari
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time45 minutes
    Total time85 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientswhole wheat flour / sattu / brinjal / tomato / mustard oil

    Ingredients

    For the litti dough

    • 2 cups whole wheat atta
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp ghee
    • About 3/4 cup water

    For the sattu filling

    • 1 1/2 cups chana sattu
    • 1 small onion, finely chopped
    • 4 garlic cloves, minced
    • 1 inch ginger, grated
    • 2 green chillies, chopped
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • 1/2 tsp kalonji (nigella)
    • 2 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 tbsp achar masala from mango pickle
    • 3 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 3/4 tsp salt
    • 2 to 3 tbsp water

    For the chokha

    • 1 large brinjal (about 400 g)
    • 3 tomatoes
    • 2 potatoes, boiled and peeled
    • 1 small onion, finely chopped
    • 4 garlic cloves, minced
    • 2 green chillies, chopped
    • 2 tbsp raw mustard oil
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • Salt to taste

    To serve

    • 1/2 cup melted ghee

    Method

    1. Knead atta, ajwain, salt, ghee and water into a stiff, smooth dough. Rest 20 minutes.
    2. Mix all filling ingredients, adding water a spoon at a time until the sattu holds together when pressed but is still crumbly.
    3. Divide the dough into 10 balls. Flatten each into a cup, fill with 2 tbsp sattu, seal and roll into a smooth ball.
    4. Bake on coals or in an oven preheated to 200 C for 30 to 35 minutes, turning every 10 minutes, until the littis are firm, golden-brown and sound hollow when tapped. A gas tandoor or appe pan on low heat also works.
    5. For the chokha, rub the brinjal and tomatoes with a little oil and roast directly on a gas flame, turning often, until charred all over – about 12 minutes for the brinjal, 5 for the tomatoes. Cover to steam, then peel.
    6. Mash the brinjal, tomatoes and potatoes together. Mix in onion, garlic, green chillies, raw mustard oil, coriander and salt.
    7. Crack each hot litti slightly with your fingers and dip it in or brush generously with melted ghee. Serve with chokha.

    Tips

    • Raw mustard oil in both the filling and the chokha gives the authentic pungency; do not cook it.
    • If the sattu filling is too dry, the litti will taste dusty; it should clump when squeezed.
    • Achar masala from the pickle jar adds the characteristic tang – use a little oil from the pickle too.

    Serve with

    Baingan-tomato chokha, green chutney and ghee.

  • Aloo ke Gutke

    Aloo ke gutke is the signature potato dish of Kumaon, the eastern hill region of Uttarakhand. Potatoes grow well in the mountains, and every home has a version of this quick stir-fry, served as a snack with tea, at festivals and in the street stalls of Almora, Nainital and Haldwani.

    What makes it distinctly Kumaoni is jakhya, the tiny seeds of a wild mustard-like plant that crackle in hot oil and give a nutty crunch. Mustard oil, dried red chillies and generous amounts of red chilli powder make it hot and pungent, while fresh coriander and a pinch of turmeric balance it. The potatoes should be soft inside with crisp, spiced edges.

    Gutke are eaten with puri or bhang ki chutney (made from hemp seeds), alongside raita, or simply as a snack with tea. They are a common offering at Kumaoni gatherings. Because the potatoes are boiled ahead, it is one of the quickest pahadi dishes to make, ready within fifteen minutes on the stove. If jakhya is unavailable, cumin is the usual substitute, though the flavour will be milder and less distinctive.

    At a glance

    RegionUttarakhand
    CuisineKumaoni
    DietVegan
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time15 minutes
    Total time35 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspotato / jakhya seeds / mustard oil / red chilli

    Ingredients

    • 600 g potatoes, boiled, peeled and cut into 2.5 cm cubes
    • 3 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1 tsp jakhya seeds (or 1 tsp cumin seeds if unavailable)
    • 3 dried red chillies, broken
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp amchur (optional)
    • 1/2 cup finely chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Boil the potatoes until just tender, about 12 minutes; they should hold their shape. Cool completely, peel and cut into cubes.
    2. Heat mustard oil in a heavy kadai until it smokes, then let it cool for 30 seconds and set the heat to medium.
    3. Add jakhya seeds and dried red chillies. Let them crackle and darken for 15 to 20 seconds without burning.
    4. Add hing, then immediately the turmeric, chilli powder and coriander powder. Stir for 10 seconds.
    5. Add the potato cubes and salt. Toss gently to coat every piece with the spiced oil.
    6. Cook on medium for 8 to 10 minutes, turning occasionally with a flat spatula, until the edges turn golden and slightly crisp.
    7. Add amchur if using and toss in most of the coriander. Garnish with the rest and serve.

    Tips

    • Cooled, day-old boiled potatoes give the best texture and do not break.
    • Jakhya burns quickly; have the spices ready before you add it.
    • Pahadi potatoes, if you can find them, are firm and slightly sweet.

    Serve with

    Puri or roti, with bhang ki chutney and raita.

  • Bedmi Puri with Aloo Sabzi

    Bedmi puri is the breakfast of Agra, Mathura and Old Delhi, where halwais fry them by the hundred from early morning and serve them in leaf bowls with a thin, peppery aloo sabzi and sometimes a side of halwa or jalebi. In Braj, the region around Mathura, bedmi aloo is also a staple of temple festivals and weddings.

    The puris are made from wheat flour kneaded with a paste of soaked urad dal, fennel, coriander, ginger and chilli, which makes them crisp, slightly coarse and full of flavour. The aloo sabzi that goes with them is runny and spicy, with tomatoes, crushed potatoes, fennel, kasuri methi and hing, made to be scooped up.

    It is weekend and festival food, especially in winter. A bedmi aloo breakfast is heavy and is often followed by a glass of lassi or a cup of strong chai. The dough can be prepared the night before and kept in the fridge, and the sabzi made while it rests. It is a meal for an unhurried Sunday, eaten slowly with plenty of conversation and tea.

    At a glance

    RegionUttar Pradesh
    CuisineUttar Pradesh
    DietVegan
    CourseBreakfast
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time40 minutes
    Total time80 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientswhole wheat flour / urad dal / potato / tomato

    Ingredients

    For the bedmi dough

    • 2 cups whole wheat atta
    • 1/4 cup fine sooji
    • 1/2 cup skinless urad dal, soaked 4 hours
    • 1 inch ginger, 2 green chillies
    • 1 tsp saunf, coarsely crushed
    • 1 tsp coriander seeds, crushed
    • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • Water as needed
    • Oil for deep frying

    For the aloo sabzi

    • 5 potatoes, boiled and roughly broken by hand
    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 1/4 tsp hing
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp saunf
    • 1/2 tsp methi seeds
    • 1 inch ginger, grated
    • 2 green chillies, chopped
    • 3 tomatoes, finely chopped
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 1/2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp amchur
    • 1 tsp kasuri methi
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 3 cups hot water
    • Salt to taste
    • Chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Drain the urad dal and grind with ginger and green chillies to a coarse paste without water.
    2. Mix atta, sooji, saunf, coriander, chilli powder, hing, salt and oil. Add the dal paste and knead with a little water into a stiff dough. Rest 20 minutes.
    3. For the sabzi, heat oil in a pot on medium. Add hing, cumin, saunf and methi seeds; when the methi turns golden, add ginger and green chillies.
    4. Add tomatoes, turmeric, coriander powder, chilli powder and salt. Cook 6 to 8 minutes until the tomatoes are completely mushy.
    5. Add the broken potatoes and mash a few against the pan. Pour in hot water, bring to a boil and simmer 12 to 15 minutes until the gravy thickens slightly but stays runny.
    6. Stir in amchur, crushed kasuri methi and garam masala. Garnish with coriander.
    7. Divide the dough into 20 balls and roll each into a 10 cm puri, slightly thicker than a regular puri.
    8. Fry in hot oil, pressing gently so they puff, for about 1 minute per side until golden brown and crisp. Serve hot with the sabzi.

    Tips

    • Keep the dough stiff; soft dough makes oily puris.
    • The sabzi should be thin, so the puri can be dipped. Add hot water if it thickens on standing.
    • Halwais add a little sooji to the dough for extra crispness – do not skip it.

    Serve with

    Pickle, a glass of lassi, or jalebi for a full halwai breakfast.

  • Pani Puri

    Golgappe in Delhi, pani puri in Mumbai, puchka in Kolkata: the snack has as many names as cities. North Indian vendors carry a large earthen pot of spiced water and a basket of puris, and customers stand in a semicircle as the vendor fills and hands out one puri at a time until they say stop. Delhi's version usually has two waters, spicy and sweet.

    The puri must be paper-thin and crisp so it shatters in the mouth. The filling is boiled potato and kala chana or boondi, and the pani is a sharp, cold blend of mint, coriander, green chilli, tamarind, black salt and roasted cumin. The pleasure is the burst of cold, tangy, spicy water with the crunch of the shell.

    It is street food eaten in the evening, and at home it is a party favourite, with a counter set up for everyone to fill their own. Bought puris are common, but homemade ones are well worth trying. Good puris and well-chilled pani make all the difference, so plan ahead and chill the water for a few hours.

    At a glance

    RegionDelhi
    CuisineDelhi street food
    DietVegan
    CourseStreet food
    Prep time45 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time75 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientssooji / potato / mint / tamarind / black chickpeas

    Ingredients

    For the puris (about 50)

    • 1 cup fine sooji (semolina)
    • 2 tbsp maida
    • A pinch of baking soda
    • 1/4 tsp salt
    • About 1/3 cup water
    • Oil for deep frying

    For the teekha pani

    • 1 cup mint leaves
    • 1/2 cup coriander leaves
    • 3 to 4 green chillies
    • 1 inch ginger
    • 3 tbsp thick tamarind pulp
    • 2 tsp roasted cumin powder
    • 1 1/2 tsp black salt
    • 1 tsp chaat masala
    • 1/2 tsp regular salt
    • 5 cups chilled water
    • 2 tbsp boondi (optional)

    For the meetha pani

    • 1/2 cup tamarind-date chutney
    • 1 cup water
    • 1/2 tsp roasted cumin powder
    • A pinch of black salt

    For the filling

    • 3 potatoes, boiled and diced small
    • 1/2 cup kala chana, soaked and boiled
    • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp roasted cumin powder
    • 1/2 tsp chaat masala
    • Salt to taste
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. For the puris, mix sooji, maida, soda and salt. Add water little by little and knead into a stiff dough. Cover with a damp cloth and rest 30 minutes, then knead again for 2 minutes until smooth.
    2. Roll a portion of dough very thin, about 1 mm, and cut out 5 cm discs. Keep the cut discs under a damp cloth so they do not dry.
    3. Heat oil to hot, around 180 C. Slide in 5 to 6 discs and press each gently with a slotted spoon so it puffs. Fry 1 to 2 minutes, turning, until crisp and light golden. Drain and cool completely.
    4. For the teekha pani, blend mint, coriander, chillies and ginger with 1/2 cup water to a smooth paste. Mix with tamarind pulp, spices and chilled water. Strain if you prefer clear pani, and chill for at least 1 hour. Add boondi just before serving.
    5. For the meetha pani, whisk the tamarind-date chutney with water, cumin and black salt.
    6. Toss the potatoes and chana with chilli powder, cumin, chaat masala, salt and coriander.
    7. To serve, crack a hole in the top of a puri with your thumb, add a teaspoon of filling, dip it in teekha or meetha pani and eat in one bite.

    Tips

    • Puris that do not puff were either rolled too thick or the oil was not hot enough.
    • Store cooled puris in an airtight tin; re-crisp in a warm oven for 5 minutes if they soften.
    • The pani tastes best ice-cold and made a few hours ahead, so the spices infuse.

    Serve with

    Extra chilled pani and a final sukha puri sprinkled with chaat masala.

  • Nihari

    Nihari comes from the Arabic word nahar, meaning morning, and in Old Delhi it was traditionally eaten after the dawn prayer. The dish is said to have been cooked in the Mughal kitchens of the late eighteenth century, and the shops around Jama Masjid and Ballimaran still cook it overnight in sealed degs and sell out within hours of opening.

    Bone-in shanks and marrow bones simmer for many hours in a broth spiced with a dedicated nihari masala of fennel, dried ginger, long pepper, mace and nutmeg. Roasted wheat flour thickens it into a silky, glossy gravy, and a slick of spiced ghee floats on top. The meat should fall off the bone at a touch.

    It is eaten with khamiri roti or kulcha, garnished at the table with julienned ginger, green chillies, coriander, fried onions and lemon. In homes it is a weekend or Eid breakfast, often cooked the night before. The bone marrow is a prized part, sucked out straight from the bone. It is very rich, so most people eat it slowly, with long breaks for tea.

    At a glance

    RegionDelhi
    CuisineMughlai
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time240 minutes
    Total time260 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientsmutton shanks / atta / ghee / nihari masala

    Ingredients

    For the nihari masala

    • 1 tbsp saunf (fennel)
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 2 pippali (long pepper)
    • 4 cloves
    • 2 black cardamom
    • 4 green cardamom
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 1 blade mace
    • 1/4 nutmeg
    • 1 tsp sonth (dry ginger) powder

    For the nihari

    • 1 kg mutton shanks (nalli) and bone-in pieces
    • 2 marrow bones (optional)
    • 1/2 cup ghee
    • 2 large onions, thinly sliced
    • 2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 2 tsp salt
    • 8 cups hot water
    • 1/3 cup whole wheat atta mixed with 1 cup water

    To garnish

    • 2 inch ginger, julienned
    • 4 green chillies, sliced
    • Chopped coriander
    • Fried onions
    • Lemon wedges

    Method

    1. Dry-roast the whole spices for the nihari masala on low for 2 minutes until fragrant. Cool and grind fine with the sonth.
    2. Heat ghee in a large heavy pot on medium. Fry the onions for 12 to 15 minutes until deep golden. Lift out half and keep for garnish.
    3. Add the mutton and marrow bones and sear on medium-high for 8 minutes. Add ginger-garlic paste and fry 2 minutes.
    4. Add chilli powders, coriander, turmeric, salt and 2 tbsp of the nihari masala. Stir-fry 3 minutes, adding a splash of water if the spices stick.
    5. Pour in the hot water and bring to a boil. Cover tightly (seal the lid with dough if you like) and cook on the lowest heat for 3 to 3 1/2 hours, until the meat comes away from the bone easily.
    6. Meanwhile, dry-roast the atta in a small pan on low for 5 minutes until it smells nutty and turns light brown, then whisk it into 1 cup water until smooth.
    7. Skim off some of the fat from the top of the pot and reserve it. Stir the atta mixture into the nihari and simmer, stirring, for 20 to 25 minutes until silky and thick.
    8. Heat the reserved fat with 1 tsp chilli powder and 1 tsp nihari masala and pour over the top before serving. Garnish at the table.

    Tips

    • Shanks give the gelatinous body nihari is known for; boneless meat will not.
    • A pressure cooker cuts the cooking to about 50 minutes, but the slow-cooked version is noticeably silkier.
    • Nihari reheats well; it thickens on cooling, so loosen with hot water.

    Serve with

    Khamiri roti or kulcha, with ginger, green chillies, fried onions and lemon.

  • Pindi Chole

    Pindi chole come from Rawalpindi, the city Punjabis call Pindi, and arrived in Delhi and Amritsar with families who migrated after Partition. Unlike most North Indian chickpea curries, the traditional version uses no onion-tomato gravy at all; the colour and tang come from tea, amla, dried pomegranate seeds and a heavily roasted spice mix.

    The chickpeas are almost dry, coated in a dark, intense masala that is sour, earthy and spicy, with whole spices and a pour of hot ghee over green chillies and ginger at the end. Each chickpea is soft through but holds its shape, and the dish has a smoky, slightly bitter edge from deeply roasted spices.

    Pindi chole are eaten with kulchas or bhature, or with plain rice. They are also popular at langars and Sunday family lunches, garnished with onion rings and lemon. Because there is no onion or tomato gravy, the chole keep well for a day or two and taste even better reheated. The roasted pindi masala is the heart of the dish, so it is worth grinding a fresh batch rather than relying on a packet.

    At a glance

    RegionPunjab
    CuisinePunjabi
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time65 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschickpeas / anardana / amla / ghee

    Ingredients

    For boiling

    • 1 1/2 cups kabuli chana, soaked overnight
    • 2 tea bags
    • 3 dried amla pieces
    • 2 black cardamom, 1 cinnamon stick, 2 bay leaves
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/4 tsp baking soda (optional)

    For the pindi masala

    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 2 tbsp anardana (dried pomegranate seeds)
    • 4 dried red chillies
    • 1/2 tsp black peppercorns
    • 4 cloves
    • Seeds of 2 black cardamom
    • 1 tsp amchur
    • 1/2 tsp black salt

    For the tadka

    • 4 tbsp ghee
    • 2 inch ginger, julienned
    • 4 green chillies, slit
    • 1/2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the soaked chana with 3 1/2 cups water, tea bags, amla, whole spices, salt and baking soda: 1 whistle on high, then 15 minutes on low. The chana should be very soft and dark. Discard tea bags, amla and whole spices.
    2. Dry-roast coriander, cumin, anardana, red chillies, peppercorns, cloves and cardamom seeds in a pan on low for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring, until the anardana is dark and everything is very fragrant. Cool and grind fine with amchur and black salt.
    3. Drain the chana, reserving the cooking liquid. Put the chana in a wide heavy pan and sprinkle 3 tbsp of the pindi masala over it.
    4. Add 1/2 cup of the reserved liquid and cook on medium for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring gently, until the liquid is absorbed and the masala coats each chickpea. Add more liquid only if it sticks.
    5. Lightly mash a few chickpeas to bind the masala. Taste and adjust salt and tang.
    6. For the tadka, heat ghee in a small pan until hot. Add ginger and green chillies and fry 1 minute until the ginger starts to crisp. Switch off, add chilli powder.
    7. Pour the sizzling tadka over the chole, cover for 2 minutes, then toss and serve.

    Tips

    • The deeply roasted anardana gives the characteristic dark colour; roast slowly so it does not burn.
    • Store extra pindi masala in an airtight jar for a month.
    • Some cooks place a hot coal in the chole with ghee for smoke, as with dal makhani.

    Serve with

    Kulcha or bhature, with onion rings, pickled chillies and lemon.

  • Kadai Paneer

    Kadai paneer takes its name from the heavy iron wok used in North Indian kitchens, and its character from the kadai masala: coriander seeds and whole dried red chillies dry-roasted and coarsely crushed just before cooking. Dhabas across Punjab and Haryana cook it over fierce flame, which gives the vegetables a slight char.

    Unlike creamy paneer curries, this one is semi-dry and assertive. The gravy is thick and tomato-based, flecked with crushed spice, and coats chunky squares of capsicum and onion that should still have some crunch. Fresh coriander seed brings a citrusy aroma, and the red chillies give a warm, building heat.

    It is a popular choice for dinner parties and restaurant-style meals at home, eaten with tandoori roti, laccha paratha or naan. Leftovers make an excellent filling for wraps the next day. The kadai masala can be pounded in larger batches and kept for a week, and the same base works well with mushrooms or chicken. Keep the vegetables crunchy and the paneer soft, and the dish comes together in about forty minutes.

    At a glance

    RegionPunjab
    CuisinePunjabi
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time45 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspaneer / capsicum / onion / tomato / coriander seeds

    Ingredients

    For the kadai masala

    • 1 1/2 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 4 dried Kashmiri red chillies
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/2 tsp black peppercorns

    For the curry

    • 300 g paneer, cut into 2.5 cm cubes
    • 1 large capsicum, cut into squares
    • 1 large onion: half finely chopped, half cut into petals
    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 3 tomatoes, pureed
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1/2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 1 tsp kasuri methi
    • 1 inch ginger, julienned
    • Salt to taste
    • Chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Dry-roast coriander seeds, red chillies, cumin and peppercorns in a pan on low heat for 2 to 3 minutes until fragrant and the coriander darkens slightly. Cool and pound coarsely in a mortar or pulse once or twice in a grinder.
    2. Heat 1 tbsp oil in a kadai on high. Toss the capsicum and onion petals for 2 minutes until lightly charred but still crisp. Remove.
    3. Add the remaining oil and lower to medium. Fry the chopped onion 5 minutes until golden, then add ginger-garlic paste for a minute.
    4. Add tomato puree, turmeric, chilli powder and salt. Cook 6 to 8 minutes until thick and oil separates.
    5. Stir in 2 tbsp of the kadai masala and cook 1 minute. Add 1/4 cup water to loosen the masala.
    6. Add paneer, the charred vegetables, garam masala and crushed kasuri methi. Toss on medium heat for 2 minutes so everything is coated.
    7. Finish with ginger julienne, coriander and a final sprinkle of the remaining kadai masala.

    Tips

    • Pound the masala fresh each time; pre-ground coriander has none of the aroma.
    • Keep the vegetables crisp – they should contrast with the soft paneer.
    • Remove seeds from the dried chillies for a milder version.

    Serve with

    Tandoori roti, laccha paratha or butter naan.

  • Sorpotel

    Sorpotel is a rich, spicy Goan pork dish made for Christmas, weddings and feasts. It came from Portuguese sarapatel, a stew of offal, and Goan cooks made it their own with local chillies, spices and toddy vinegar. Traditional sorpotel uses pork meat, fat and liver, and sometimes heart and blood, boiled, diced small and cooked in a vinegar masala.

    The flavour is deeply savoury, tangy and spicy, with a rich, slightly gamey depth from the liver. The gravy is thick, dark red and coats every small piece of meat. Like vindaloo, sorpotel is cooked ahead, and families reheat it daily for several days, which concentrates the flavour. The texture is soft and rich.

    It is served with sannas, the soft steamed rice cakes of Goa, or with pao. A plate of sorpotel and sannas is the centrepiece of many Goan Christmas lunches. Many Goans believe sorpotel is best on the third day, and families plan their festive cooking around that. It also freezes well for later meals.

    At a glance

    RegionGoa
    CuisineGoan
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time90 minutes
    Total time130 minutes
    Serves8
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspork / pork liver / kashmiri chillies / vinegar

    Ingredients

    For boiling

    • 1 kg pork with fat (shoulder or belly)
    • 250 g pork liver
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • Water to cover

    For the masala

    • 20 dried Kashmiri chillies
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 8 cloves
    • 2 inch cinnamon
    • 1 tsp turmeric
    • 20 garlic cloves
    • 2 inch ginger
    • 3/4 cup coconut or palm vinegar

    For cooking

    • 3 tbsp oil or pork fat
    • 3 onions, finely chopped
    • 4 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tbsp sugar
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Put the pork and liver in a pot with salt, turmeric and water to cover. Bring to a boil and simmer for 20-25 minutes until just cooked.
    2. Remove the meat, cool and dice into very small, 1/2 inch cubes. Keep the stock.
    3. Soak the chillies in the vinegar for 30 minutes and grind with the other masala ingredients to a smooth paste.
    4. Heat oil in a heavy pot on medium. Fry the diced pork fat pieces first for 5 minutes to render fat, then add the onions and green chillies and cook for 10 minutes until golden.
    5. Add the masala paste and fry for 8-10 minutes until it darkens and oil separates.
    6. Add the diced meat and liver and fry for 5 minutes. Pour in 2 cups of the reserved stock and add sugar and salt.
    7. Simmer on low for 30-40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the gravy is thick and the meat is tender. Cool and refrigerate.
    8. Reheat once a day for 2-3 days before serving, adding a splash of vinegar or stock if it gets too thick.

    Tips

    • Dice the meat very small; this is characteristic of sorpotel.
    • Reheating daily is traditional and essential for the best flavour.
    • Keep the stock; it adds depth to the gravy.

    Serve with

    Sannas or Goan pao.