Tag: Hot spice

  • Vada Pav

    Vada pav was born in the 1960s near Dadar station in Mumbai, when Ashok Vaidya started selling batata vadas inside pav to mill workers who needed something cheap, filling and quick. It became the city's signature street food and an emblem of Mumbai itself, sold at thousands of stalls from early morning to late night.

    The vada is a ball of mashed potato tempered with mustard seeds, curry leaves, plenty of garlic, ginger and green chilli, dipped in a thin besan batter and fried until crisp. It goes into a soft, split pav smeared with red dry garlic chutney and a tangy green chutney. Bits of fried batter, called chura, are often sprinkled inside for extra crunch.

    It is eaten on the go, standing at the stall, with a fried green chilli sprinkled with salt. At home it makes a good monsoon evening snack. The vadas can be made ahead and fried just before eating. The garlic chutney is the soul of the dish, so make a good batch with dry coconut, garlic and red chilli and store it in a jar for weeks.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMaharashtrian
    DietVegan
    CourseStreet food
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientspotato / besan / pav / garlic

    Ingredients

    For the potato filling

    • 4 medium potatoes (about 500 g), boiled, peeled and coarsely mashed
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 10 curry leaves
    • 8 garlic cloves, 1 inch ginger and 3 green chillies, pounded coarsely
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 1 tsp lemon juice

    For the batter

    • 1 cup (100 g) besan
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1/4 tsp red chilli powder
    • A pinch of baking soda
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • About 3/4 cup water

    To assemble

    • 8 ladi pav
    • Dry garlic chutney (lasun chutney)
    • Green coriander chutney
    • 8 green chillies, slit
    • Oil for deep frying

    Method

    1. Heat oil on medium, crackle the mustard seeds, then add asafoetida, curry leaves and the pounded garlic-ginger-chilli. Saute for 1 minute until the raw garlic smell fades.
    2. Add turmeric, then the mashed potatoes and salt. Mix well for 2 minutes, turn off the heat and stir in coriander and lemon juice. Cool, then shape into 8 balls slightly flattened.
    3. Whisk the besan, turmeric, chilli powder, soda and salt with water into a smooth batter, thinner than pakora batter, that coats a spoon in a thin layer.
    4. Heat oil to medium-hot, about 175 C. Dip each vada in the batter, coat fully and slide into the oil.
    5. Fry 3-4 at a time for 3-4 minutes, turning, until the coating is crisp and light golden. Drain. Drizzle a little leftover batter into the oil to make crunchy chura and drain that too.
    6. Fry the slit green chillies in the same oil for 30 seconds until blistered, then toss with salt.
    7. Slit each pav horizontally without cutting through. Spread green chutney on one side and sprinkle dry garlic chutney generously on the other. Add some chura, place a hot vada inside and press lightly.

    Tips

    • Mash the potatoes by hand, not in a mixer, so the filling has texture and does not turn gluey.
    • A thinner batter gives the thin, crisp shell of the street version; thick batter makes it doughy.
    • Warm the pav on a tawa for a few seconds if it is a day old.

    Serve with

    Fried salted green chillies and cutting chai.

  • Naga Smoked Pork with Bamboo Shoot

    Smoked pork with bamboo shoot is the dish most associated with Nagaland. Naga households traditionally hang strips of pork over the kitchen hearth for days or weeks, where the smoke dries and preserves the meat. Fermented bamboo shoot, prepared at home in every village, is the other pillar of the cuisine.

    The cooking is simple and the flavours bold. Pork is boiled with ginger, garlic and raja mircha, the king chilli, and the sour, pungent bamboo shoot is added to cut through the fat. There are no masala powders, and often no oil, since the pork releases its own. The result is smoky, sour and very hot, with tender meat and a little thick gravy.

    At a glance

    RegionNagaland
    CuisineNaga
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time70 minutes
    Total time90 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientssmoked pork / fermented bamboo shoot / king chilli / ginger

    Ingredients

    • 750 g smoked pork with fat, cut into 4 cm pieces
    • 1 cup fermented bamboo shoot, shredded
    • 2 tbsp ginger, crushed
    • 8 garlic cloves, crushed
    • 1 raja mircha (king chilli), slit, or 4-5 dried red chillies
    • 4 green chillies, slit
    • 2 tomatoes, chopped (optional)
    • 2 tbsp axone (fermented soybean) paste (optional)
    • 3 cups water
    • Salt to taste
    • 2 spring onions, chopped

    Method

    1. Wash the smoked pork in warm water to remove soot and excess salt.
    2. Put the pork in a heavy pot with ginger, garlic, the king chilli and 3 cups water. Bring to a boil, then cover and simmer on low heat for 40 minutes (or pressure cook for 4 whistles) until the pork is almost tender.
    3. Add the fermented bamboo shoot, green chillies, tomatoes and axone if using. Add salt carefully – smoked pork can already be salty.
    4. Simmer uncovered on medium-low heat for 20-25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the pork is very tender and the fat has rendered into the gravy.
    5. Keep cooking until most of the water evaporates and the gravy is thick and glossy, clinging to the meat.
    6. Taste, adjust salt, scatter spring onion and serve hot.

    Tips

    • Raja mircha is among the hottest chillies in the world – use half of one first and remove it once the dish is hot enough.
    • Without smoked pork, use pork belly and add a little smoked paprika, though it will not be the same.
    • Fermented bamboo shoot is sour and strong; rinse it once if you want a milder flavour.

    Serve with

    Sticky or plain steamed rice and boiled greens.

  • Eromba

    Eromba is one of the defining dishes of Meitei cooking in Manipur. Boiled vegetables – potato, beans, bamboo shoot, yongchak (stink beans) or pumpkin – are mashed with roasted chillies and ngari, the pungent fermented fish that Manipuris treasure. It is eaten with rice at lunch and dinner, a spoonful at a time.

    The taste is intense: smoky and very hot from roasted chillies, deeply savoury and funky from ngari, and freshened with herbs such as maroi (Chinese chives), coriander or the local mint-like toningkhok. It uses no oil at all, which is typical of Manipuri home cooking. The texture is rough, with soft vegetables and bits of fish crushed together by hand.

    At a glance

    RegionManipur
    CuisineManipuri
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time35 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspotato / ngari (fermented fish) / dried red chilli / french beans

    Ingredients

    • 2 medium potatoes, peeled and quartered
    • 1 cup french beans, cut into 5 cm pieces
    • 1/2 cup fermented bamboo shoot (optional)
    • 2-3 pieces ngari (fermented dried fish)
    • 4-6 dried red chillies (or 1 king chilli for real heat)
    • 2 tbsp chopped maroi (Chinese chives) or spring onion
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • Salt to taste
    • 2 cups water

    Method

    1. Boil the potatoes, beans and bamboo shoot in 2 cups salted water for 12-15 minutes until soft. Drain, keeping a few tablespoons of the water.
    2. Wrap the ngari in a small piece of banana leaf or foil and roast directly over a low flame for 1-2 minutes until fragrant. Alternatively, drop it into the vegetable water for the last 2 minutes of boiling.
    3. Roast the dried red chillies over a low flame or in a dry pan until they darken and smell smoky, 30-40 seconds. Do not let them turn black.
    4. In a large bowl, crush the roasted chillies and ngari together with a pinch of salt, using your fingers or a pestle, until coarse.
    5. Add the boiled vegetables and mash everything together by hand, adding a spoon or two of the cooking water to bind it into a rough paste.
    6. Mix in the maroi and coriander, adjust salt and serve at room temperature.

    Tips

    • Ngari is very pungent; open the window while roasting and start with less if you are new to it.
    • Wear gloves when mashing if using king chilli (umorok) – it burns the skin.
    • For a vegetarian version, leave out the ngari, though the dish loses its signature depth.

    Serve with

    Plain steamed rice with a light dal or ooti.

  • Champaran Mutton

    Champaran mutton, also called ahuna or handi meat, comes from the Champaran region of north-west Bihar, near the Nepal border. It was cooked by farmers and at roadside dhabas in clay pots sealed with dough and set over wood or charcoal, and in the last decade it has become a craze, with 'Champaran meat house' signboards appearing far from Bihar.

    Everything goes into the pot raw: mutton, whole garlic bulbs, sliced onions, mustard oil and a generous amount of whole and ground spices. The handi is sealed and gently shaken now and then instead of stirred. The meat cooks in its own juices, absorbing the smoky, earthy flavour of the clay, and the whole garlic turns soft and sweet.

    At a glance

    RegionBihar
    CuisineBihari
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time90 minutes
    Total time120 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / garlic / onion / mustard oil

    Ingredients

    For the mutton

    • 1 kg mutton, curry cut with bone and some fat
    • 4 whole garlic bulbs, top sliced off, outer papery skin removed
    • 4 medium onions, thickly sliced
    • 2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1/2 cup mustard oil
    • 1/4 cup curd (optional)
    • Salt to taste

    Whole spices

    • 2 bay leaves
    • 6 green cardamoms
    • 2 black cardamoms
    • 6 cloves
    • 2 inch cinnamon
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 4 dry red chillies
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds

    Ground spices

    • 1 tsp turmeric powder
    • 2 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp cumin powder
    • 1 1/2 tsp meat masala or garam masala

    For sealing

    • 1 cup atta kneaded into a stiff dough

    Method

    1. Put the mutton, onions, ginger-garlic paste, all the whole and ground spices, salt, curd and half the mustard oil in a large bowl. Mix thoroughly with your hands and marinate for at least 1 hour.
    2. Heat the remaining mustard oil in a small pan until it smokes, then let it cool slightly. This removes its raw pungency.
    3. Put the marinated mutton in a clay handi (or a heavy-bottomed pot), push the garlic bulbs into the meat and pour the cooked oil over the top.
    4. Cover with the lid and seal the edges all round with the atta dough so no steam escapes.
    5. Place the handi on a low charcoal fire or on the lowest gas flame over a tawa. Cook for 75-90 minutes.
    6. Every 15 minutes, lift the handi with a cloth and shake it in a circular motion to move the meat around. Do not open it.
    7. Break the seal after 75 minutes and check: the mutton should come off the bone easily and the oil should float on a thick, dark masala. If not, reseal and cook another 15 minutes.
    8. Serve straight from the handi, with a whole garlic bulb on each plate to squeeze over the meat.

    Tips

    • Season a new clay handi by soaking it in water overnight and rubbing it with mustard oil before use.
    • In a pressure cooker, cook on medium for 1 whistle then on lowest heat for 30 minutes; it lacks the smokiness but is close.
    • Choose meat with fat and bone – the dish depends on the meat's own juices.

    Serve with

    Plain rice or thick rotis, with sliced onion and green chillies.

  • Machha Besara

    Besara is the Odia word for a mustard paste, and machha besara is one of the most common fish preparations along the Mahanadi delta and the coast around Puri and Cuttack. Rohu, katla and other freshwater fish are typical, cut into steaks and fried in mustard oil before they meet the gravy.

    Where Bengali shorshe dishes stay pure mustard, Odia besara usually grinds garlic into the paste and adds tomato for tang, and some families add a few slices of brinjal or potato to stretch the curry. The result is a pungent, sour and gently hot gravy that coats the fish, best eaten with rice or even with pakhala on a summer afternoon.

    At a glance

    RegionOdisha
    CuisineOdia
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrohu fish / mustard seeds / garlic / tomato

    Ingredients

    For the fish

    • 500 g rohu or katla steaks
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 4 tbsp mustard oil

    For the besara paste

    • 2 tbsp yellow or black mustard seeds
    • 6 garlic cloves
    • 2 green chillies
    • 1/4 tsp salt

    For the gravy

    • 1/2 tsp panch phoron
    • 1 dry red chilli
    • 1 medium tomato, chopped
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 small brinjal, cut into wedges (optional)
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 1 cup water
    • Salt to taste
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Rub the fish steaks with turmeric and salt and rest for 15 minutes.
    2. Soak the mustard seeds for 15 minutes, then grind with garlic, green chillies and salt into a smooth paste using a little water.
    3. Heat the mustard oil in a kadhai until smoking, then lower to medium. Fry the fish 2-3 minutes per side until golden and firm. Remove and keep aside.
    4. In the same oil add panch phoron and the dry red chilli. When they crackle, add the brinjal if using and fry for 3 minutes.
    5. Add the tomato, turmeric and chilli powder and cook for 4-5 minutes until the tomato breaks down.
    6. Add the besara paste and cook on low heat for 2 minutes, stirring, then pour in 1 cup water with salt and slit green chillies. Bring to a gentle simmer.
    7. Slide in the fried fish and simmer on low heat for 6-8 minutes, spooning gravy over it, until the gravy thickens slightly and the oil floats on top.
    8. Sprinkle coriander, cover, and rest for 5 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Once the mustard paste is in, keep the heat low – a hard boil makes it bitter.
    • Add a teaspoon of mango kasundi or a few pieces of raw mango in summer for the classic tangy variation.
    • Shake the pan rather than stirring after the fish goes in so the steaks do not break.

    Serve with

    Steamed rice or pakhala bhata.

  • Jhal Muri

    Jhal muri is the snack of Kolkata's streets, sold from tin canisters by vendors at stations, college gates and the Maidan. 'Jhal' means spicy, and the vendor's rhythm of scooping, shaking and folding it into a paper cone is part of the experience. It is eaten at any hour, most often with evening tea or during a long train ride.

    Unlike the tamarind-sweet bhel of Mumbai, jhal muri is dry and pungent. Raw mustard oil, sometimes with a spoon of oil from a mango pickle jar, coats crisp puffed rice, and chopped onion, green chilli, cucumber, coriander, boiled potato and peanuts add texture. A spiced masala and lime finish it. It must be eaten immediately before the muri softens.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietVegan
    CourseStreet food
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time0 minutes
    Total time10 minutes
    Serves2
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspuffed rice / mustard oil / onion / peanuts

    Ingredients

    • 3 cups muri (puffed rice), crisp
    • 1 small onion, finely chopped
    • 1 small cucumber, finely chopped
    • 1 small tomato, deseeded and chopped
    • 1 boiled potato, diced small
    • 2 green chillies, finely chopped
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 3 tbsp roasted peanuts
    • 2 tbsp chanachur or sev
    • 1 tbsp raw mustard oil (or mango pickle oil)
    • 1/2 tsp bhaja masala (dry-roasted cumin, coriander and red chilli, ground)
    • 1/4 tsp black salt
    • 1 tsp lemon juice
    • 1 tbsp fresh coconut slivers (optional)

    Method

    1. If the muri is even slightly limp, dry-roast it in a kadhai on low heat for 2-3 minutes, stirring, until it crackles. Let it cool.
    2. In a large bowl or steel container with a lid, combine onion, cucumber, tomato, potato, green chillies and coriander.
    3. Add the mustard oil, bhaja masala, black salt and lemon juice and mix well.
    4. Tip in the muri and peanuts. Cover and shake vigorously for 20-30 seconds, as the vendors do, so every grain is coated.
    5. Add the chanachur and coconut slivers and toss once more.
    6. Taste and adjust salt or lemon, and serve immediately in paper cones or bowls.

    Tips

    • Mix only what will be eaten at once – the wet vegetables soften the puffed rice within minutes.
    • Pungent kachi ghani mustard oil is essential; any neutral oil makes it taste like a different snack.
    • Make a batch of bhaja masala by dry-roasting 2 tsp cumin, 1 tsp coriander and 2 dry red chillies, then grinding fine.

    Serve with

    A cup of hot milky tea in the evening.

  • Shorshe Ilish

    Shorshe ilish is the dish that marks the monsoon in Bengal, when hilsa swim up the Padma and the Ganga to spawn and the fish markets of Kolkata fill with silver. Bengalis argue endlessly over Padma versus Ganga hilsa, but agree that the fish needs very little help: freshly ground mustard, green chillies, turmeric and a generous slick of raw mustard oil.

    The flavour is bold and nose-tingling. Black and yellow mustard seeds are ground with a pinch of salt and a green chilli so the paste does not turn bitter, then the oily, delicate fish cooks gently in it. It is eaten with plain steamed rice, picking carefully around the fine bones, and the leftover gravy mixed into rice is often considered the best part.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time40 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientshilsa / mustard seeds / mustard oil / green chilli

    Ingredients

    For the fish

    • 6 hilsa steaks (about 600 g), cleaned
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp salt

    For the mustard gravy

    • 2 tbsp black mustard seeds
    • 1 tbsp yellow mustard seeds
    • 4-5 green chillies (2 for the paste, rest slit)
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 4 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1/2 tsp kalonji (nigella seeds)
    • 3/4 cup water
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Rub the hilsa steaks with turmeric and salt and set aside for 10 minutes. Do not wash the fish again after marinating.
    2. Soak both kinds of mustard seeds in warm water for 15 minutes. Drain and grind with 2 green chillies, a pinch of salt and 2-3 tbsp water to a smooth, thick paste. Grind in short bursts so the paste does not heat up and turn bitter.
    3. Loosen the paste with 1/2 cup water and the remaining turmeric, then pass it through a fine sieve if you want a very smooth gravy.
    4. Heat 3 tbsp mustard oil in a wide kadhai until it just begins to smoke, then reduce the heat to medium. Add the kalonji and let it crackle for a few seconds.
    5. Pour in the mustard mixture and the remaining 1/4 cup water. Add salt and bring to a gentle simmer on low-medium heat for 2 minutes; do not boil hard or the mustard turns bitter.
    6. Slide in the hilsa steaks in a single layer and spoon the gravy over them. Scatter the slit green chillies on top.
    7. Cover and cook on low heat for 8-10 minutes, without stirring. Tilt and swirl the pan once halfway so the fish does not stick. The fish is done when the flesh near the bone turns opaque.
    8. Turn off the heat, drizzle the remaining 1 tbsp raw mustard oil over the top and keep covered for 5 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Do not fry the hilsa before adding it to the gravy if the fish is very fresh – steaming it raw keeps the flesh soft and the flavour clean.
    • If you cannot grind fresh mustard, use a good kasundi mixed with a little ground mustard, though the taste will be sharper and more vinegary.
    • For bhapa ilish, mix the same paste with the fish in a steel tiffin box, seal and steam over boiling water for 15 minutes.

    Serve with

    Hot steamed gobindobhog or sona masoori rice, with a wedge of lime on the side.

  • Sarva Pindi

    Sarva pindi, also called ginne appa or tapala chekka, is a traditional Telangana snack named after the sarva, the heavy, deep pan it is cooked in. The dough of rice flour, soaked chana dal, peanuts and sesame is pressed by hand directly into the pan, and holes are poked through it so the oil can seep in and crisp it up.

    The result is a large, round pancake that is crisp and golden on the outside and slightly chewy inside, with crunchy peanuts, nutty sesame and the aroma of curry leaves and coriander. It is spicy and very satisfying, a favourite evening snack in Telangana villages that is now served in Hyderabad's Telangana-themed restaurants.

    At a glance

    RegionTelangana
    CuisineTelangana
    DietVegan
    CourseSnack
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice flour / chana dal / peanuts / sesame seeds / curry leaves

    Ingredients

    • 2 cups rice flour
    • 2 tbsp chana dal, soaked 1 hour
    • 3 tbsp raw peanuts, lightly crushed
    • 1 tbsp white sesame seeds
    • 1 small onion, finely chopped
    • 3 green chillies, finely chopped, or 1 tsp ginger-chilli paste
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 2 sprigs curry leaves, chopped
    • 3 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp hot oil
    • about 1 cup warm water
    • 4-5 tbsp oil for cooking

    Method

    1. In a large bowl combine the rice flour, drained chana dal, peanuts, sesame, onion, green chillies, chilli powder, cumin, curry leaves, coriander and salt.
    2. Pour in 1 tbsp hot oil and rub it in, then add warm water gradually to make a soft, non-sticky dough. Rest for 10 minutes.
    3. Spread 1 tbsp oil in a thick-bottomed kadai or sarva while it is still cold.
    4. Take an orange-sized portion of dough and place it in the centre. With wet fingers, press it out thinly and evenly over the base and slightly up the sides, about 3-4 mm thick.
    5. Make 5-6 holes in the dough with your finger and pour a few drops of oil into each and around the edge.
    6. Place the kadai on medium heat, cover and cook for 5-6 minutes until the bottom is golden and crisp.
    7. Flip it over with a spatula, drizzle a little more oil and cook uncovered for 3-4 minutes until both sides are golden brown and crisp.
    8. Remove, cool the kadai before making the next one, and cut into wedges to serve.

    Tips

    • Always press the dough into a cold kadai; a hot pan makes it impossible to spread.
    • Thinner pressing gives a crisper sarva pindi.
    • A handful of chopped soaked chana leaves or spinach is a popular seasonal addition.

    Serve with

    Hot tea, or a dollop of curd or peanut chutney.

  • Chepala Pulusu

    Chepala pulusu, fish in tamarind gravy, is a signature dish of coastal Andhra, from Nellore to the Godavari delta, where fish from the sea, rivers and backwaters is eaten daily. Pulusu means a sour, tamarind-based gravy. Each district has its own style: Nellore chepala pulusu is famous for its raw mango and intense heat, while Godavari versions are slightly sweeter.

    The gravy is thin to medium-thick, red, and sharply sour and spicy, balanced by a pinch of jaggery and the aroma of roasted fenugreek and coriander. Families traditionally cook it in a clay pot and let it rest for several hours, often overnight, so the fish absorbs the tamarind. It is eaten with hot rice.

    At a glance

    RegionAndhra Pradesh
    CuisineAndhra
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsfish / tamarind / onion / red chilli powder / fenugreek

    Ingredients

    For the fish

    • 750 g firm fish steaks (rohu, murrel, seer or pomfret)
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp salt

    For the spice powder

    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 1/4 tsp mustard seeds

    For the pulusu

    • lemon-sized ball of tamarind soaked in 2 cups warm water
    • 4 tbsp groundnut oil
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 2 medium onions, finely sliced
    • 4 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1 tomato, chopped
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 2-3 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1.5 tsp salt
    • 1 tsp grated jaggery
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Clean the fish and rub with turmeric, chilli powder and salt. Marinate for 15 minutes.
    2. Dry roast the coriander, cumin, fenugreek and mustard on low heat for 2 minutes until fragrant. Cool and grind to a powder.
    3. Squeeze the tamarind and strain to get about 2 cups of extract.
    4. Heat oil in a clay pot or wide pan. Splutter mustard and fenugreek seeds, then add curry leaves, onions and green chillies. Fry on medium heat for 6-7 minutes until the onions are soft and light golden.
    5. Add ginger-garlic paste and fry 1 minute. Add tomato, turmeric and chilli powder and cook until the tomato is mushy.
    6. Pour in the tamarind extract and salt and bring to a boil. Simmer for 8-10 minutes on medium heat until the raw tamarind taste is gone and the gravy thickens slightly.
    7. Add the fish pieces in a single layer and sprinkle the spice powder over. Do not stir; swirl the pot gently. Cover and simmer on low heat for 10-12 minutes until the fish is cooked and oil floats on top.
    8. Add jaggery and coriander, swirl once more, switch off and rest for at least 2 hours before serving.

    Tips

    • Firm, thick fish steaks hold their shape; delicate fish breaks in the long simmer.
    • Swirl, never stir, once the fish is in.
    • In Nellore style, add a few pieces of raw mango along with the tamarind.

    Serve with

    Hot rice with a spoon of ghee and fried appadams.

  • Gongura Mutton

    Gongura, the sour leaves of the roselle plant, are so loved in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana that they are often called the pride of Andhra. Gongura pachadi is a household staple, and gongura mamsam, mutton with gongura, is the famous non-vegetarian version. It is a regular on the menus of Andhra meals restaurants and a Sunday favourite at home.

    The leaves cook down into a thick, dark-green purée that clings to the mutton, giving an intense, natural sourness without tamarind. Combined with plenty of red chilli, it is a hot dish, balanced by the richness of the meat. It is eaten with hot rice and ghee or with jowar rotis.

    At a glance

    RegionAndhra Pradesh
    CuisineAndhra
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time75 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / gongura leaves / onion / green chillies / red chilli powder

    Ingredients

    For the mutton

    • 750 g mutton, curry cut
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 cup water

    For the gongura

    • 4 cups packed gongura leaves (about 2 bunches), washed and drained
    • 1 tbsp oil
    • 4 green chillies

    For the masala

    • 4 tbsp oil
    • 1 inch cinnamon, 4 cloves, 3 cardamoms
    • 2 large onions, finely chopped
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • salt to taste
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the mutton with turmeric, ginger-garlic paste, salt and 1 cup water for 5-6 whistles on medium heat until tender. Keep the stock.
    2. Heat 1 tbsp oil in a pan and add the gongura leaves and green chillies. Saute on medium heat for 6-8 minutes until the leaves wilt completely, turn dark and dry out. Mash them into a coarse paste with a spoon or pulse once in a grinder.
    3. In a heavy kadai, heat 4 tbsp oil. Add the whole spices and fry for 20 seconds, then add onions and curry leaves and fry on medium heat for 8-10 minutes until golden brown.
    4. Add ginger-garlic paste and fry for 2 minutes. Lower the heat and add chilli powder and coriander powder; stir for 30 seconds.
    5. Add the cooked mutton without the stock and fry on medium-high heat for 5 minutes so the masala coats the meat.
    6. Add the gongura paste and mix well. Cook for 5 minutes, then add about 1/2 cup of the reserved stock.
    7. Simmer uncovered on low heat for 10-12 minutes, stirring often, until the gravy is thick, dark and oil separates on the sides. Stir in garam masala and coriander leaves.

    Tips

    • Gongura sourness varies by season; taste and add a little more chilli or a pinch of sugar to balance.
    • Saute the leaves until all their moisture evaporates, or the gravy turns watery.
    • Gongura discolours in aluminium; use a steel or iron pan.

    Serve with

    Hot rice with ghee, or jowar rotti and sliced onions.