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Tag: Hot spice

  • Hyderabadi Chicken Dum Biryani

    Hyderabadi biryani grew out of the kitchens of the Nizams, and its most prized form is the kachchi style, where raw marinated meat and par-boiled rice are layered and cooked together under a seal. The meat cooks in the steam of the rice while the rice absorbs the juices of the meat. Getting both done at once is the test of a biryani cook.

    The finished biryani has long, separate grains of basmati in white, yellow and saffron-orange, with tender chicken that is spiced, tangy from curd and lemon, and fragrant with mint, fried onions and kewra. It is the dish of every Hyderabadi wedding and Eid, and of countless Sunday lunches. Every family guards its own ratio of rice to meat and its own garam masala blend.

    At a glance

    RegionTelangana
    CuisineHyderabadi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseRice
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time60 minutes
    Total time100 minutes
    Serves5
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / basmati rice / curd / fried onions / saffron

    Ingredients

    For the marinade

    • 1 kg chicken, large bone-in pieces
    • 1 cup thick curd
    • 1.5 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1.5 tsp garam masala
    • 1/2 tsp shahi jeera, crushed
    • 4 green chillies, slit
    • 1/2 cup chopped mint
    • 1/2 cup chopped coriander
    • 1 cup birista (fried onions from 3 large onions)
    • 3 tbsp lemon juice
    • 3 tbsp ghee
    • 2 tbsp oil from frying the onions
    • 1.5 tsp salt

    For the rice

    • 3 cups aged basmati rice, soaked 30 minutes
    • 12 cups water
    • 2 tbsp salt
    • 4 green cardamoms, 4 cloves, 1 inch cinnamon, 2 bay leaves
    • 1 tsp shahi jeera
    • 1 tbsp oil

    For layering

    • a large pinch of saffron in 1/4 cup warm milk
    • 3 tbsp ghee
    • 2 tbsp chopped mint
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 1/2 cup birista
    • 1 tsp kewra water
    • atta dough for sealing

    Method

    1. Mix all the marinade ingredients into the chicken in the heavy, wide pot you will cook the biryani in. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight. Bring to room temperature before cooking.
    2. Bring 12 cups of water to a rolling boil with the salt, whole spices, shahi jeera and oil. The water should taste distinctly salty.
    3. Add the drained rice. Boil on high heat and start checking at 4 minutes: when the grains are about 70 percent cooked, they break when pressed but still have a firm core, scoop out a third of the rice with a slotted spoon and spread it over the chicken.
    4. Boil the remaining rice for another minute and layer half of it over the first layer. Cook the rest another minute until about 85 percent done and spread it on top. Drain well, so very little water goes into the pot.
    5. Drizzle the saffron milk, ghee and kewra water over the rice and scatter mint, coriander and the remaining birista.
    6. Seal the lid with a rope of atta dough, or cover tightly with foil and then the lid.
    7. Cook on high heat for 5 minutes until you hear the marinade sizzle and steam starts to build. Then place the pot on a hot iron tawa and cook on low heat for 35-40 minutes.
    8. Switch off and rest for 10 minutes. Open the seal and serve by scooping from the side so each portion has chicken from the bottom and rice from all layers.

    Tips

    • Use a heavy pot and a tawa underneath during dum to prevent the chicken from burning.
    • Large chicken pieces with bone hold up to the long dum without drying out.
    • Aged basmati gives long, separate grains; new-crop rice breaks.

    Serve with

    Mirchi ka salan and onion-cucumber raita (burani).

  • Coorg Pandi Curry

    Pandi curry, pork curry, is the most celebrated dish of the Kodavas, the people of Kodagu (Coorg) in the Western Ghats. Wild boar hunting was part of Kodava tradition, and today farmed pork is cooked the same way for weddings, Puthari, the harvest festival, and family gatherings. Its defining ingredient is kachampuli, a dark, thick vinegar made from the fruit of the Garcinia gummi-gutta tree.

    The curry is almost black, thanks to spices roasted until very dark. It is sour, peppery and rich, with fatty pork pieces that turn tender and absorb the masala. Kodavas eat it with kadambuttu, steamed rice balls, or akki otti, a thin rice flatbread. A small glass of homemade wine or a cold drink usually comes with it at Kodava celebrations.

    At a glance

    RegionKarnataka
    CuisineKodava
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time60 minutes
    Total time85 minutes
    Serves5
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspork / kachampuli / black pepper / onion / garlic

    Ingredients

    For the pork

    • 1 kg pork with fat and skin, cut into 3 cm cubes
    • 1 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1.5 tsp salt
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder

    For the roasted masala

    • 3 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1.5 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tbsp black peppercorns
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 4 cloves
    • 2 inch cinnamon
    • 6 dry red chillies

    For the curry

    • 2 large onions, roughly chopped
    • 1.5 inch ginger
    • 15 garlic cloves
    • 4 green chillies
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 2-3 tsp kachampuli (Coorg vinegar), to taste
    • 1 cup water

    Method

    1. Rub the pork with turmeric, salt and chilli powder and keep for 20 minutes.
    2. Grind the onions, ginger, garlic and green chillies to a coarse paste.
    3. Put the pork and the onion paste in a heavy pot with 1 cup water. Bring to a boil, then cover and cook on low-medium heat for 35-40 minutes until the pork is tender and has released its fat. You can also pressure cook for 4-5 whistles.
    4. Meanwhile dry roast the coriander, cumin, pepper, mustard, fenugreek, cloves, cinnamon and chillies in a heavy pan on low-medium heat, stirring constantly, for 10-12 minutes until they turn very dark brown, almost black, but not burnt. Cool and grind to a fine powder.
    5. Add 3-4 tbsp of the roasted masala powder to the pork and mix. The curry will turn dark.
    6. Cook uncovered on medium heat for 10-15 minutes, stirring, until the gravy thickens and the pork fat separates and coats the meat.
    7. Add the kachampuli a teaspoon at a time, tasting after each, until the curry is distinctly sour. Add curry leaves, simmer 2 minutes and switch off.
    8. Rest for an hour if you can; pandi curry tastes best the next day.

    Tips

    • Pork belly or shoulder with fat is essential; lean pork turns dry.
    • Roast the spices dark but stop before they burn, which makes the curry bitter.
    • If kachampuli is unavailable, a mix of malt vinegar and a little tamarind is a compromise, but the flavour differs.

    Serve with

    Kadambuttu (steamed rice balls), akki otti or plain rice.

  • Kori Rotti

    Kori rotti is the signature dish of the Bunt and Tuluva communities of coastal Karnataka. Kori means chicken in Tulu, and rotti here is not a flatbread but a brittle, paper-thin wafer made from boiled rice, cooked on a griddle and dried in the sun. The rottis are bought ready-made in Mangalore and keep for months.

    At the table the dry rottis are broken into a plate and the hot chicken curry, called kori gassi, is poured over them. The rotti softens slightly while still keeping some crunch. The gravy is rich with coconut, red with Byadgi chillies and tangy with tamarind. It is a feast dish, made for weddings, festivals and Sunday lunches.

    At a glance

    RegionKarnataka
    CuisineMangalorean
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time40 minutes
    Total time70 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / coconut / byadgi chillies / rice rotti / tamarind

    Ingredients

    For the masala

    • 12 Byadgi chillies
    • 2 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/2 tsp black peppercorns
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 1 tsp oil
    • 1.5 cups grated coconut
    • 1 small onion, sliced
    • 6 garlic cloves
    • small marble of tamarind
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder

    For the curry

    • 750 g chicken, curry cut
    • 3 tbsp coconut oil or ghee
    • 1 large onion, finely sliced
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 1 cup thin coconut milk or water
    • 1/2 cup thick coconut milk
    • 1.5 tsp salt, or to taste

    To serve

    • 8-10 dry rice rottis (Mangalore rotti)

    Method

    1. Roast the chillies, coriander, cumin, pepper and fenugreek in 1 tsp oil on low heat for 3-4 minutes until fragrant. Remove, then lightly roast the sliced onion and garlic in the same pan for 2 minutes.
    2. Grind the roasted spices, onion, garlic, coconut, tamarind and turmeric with about 1 cup water to a smooth, thick paste.
    3. Heat coconut oil in a heavy pan. Fry the sliced onion on medium heat for 6-7 minutes until golden, then add the curry leaves.
    4. Add the chicken and salt and saute on medium-high heat for 5 minutes until the pieces are sealed.
    5. Add the ground masala and fry with the chicken for 4-5 minutes on medium heat, stirring, until it no longer smells raw.
    6. Pour in the thin coconut milk or water, bring to a boil, then cover and simmer for 20 minutes on low heat until the chicken is tender and oil rises to the top.
    7. Stir in the thick coconut milk and heat for 2 minutes without boiling. The gravy should be medium-thick and pourable.
    8. To serve, break 2-3 rottis into each plate and pour the hot gravy with chicken over them just before eating.

    Tips

    • Pour the gravy only at the table, or the rotti turns soggy.
    • Kori gassi should have plenty of gravy because the rotti absorbs a lot.
    • If rotti is unavailable, serve the gassi with neer dosa or steamed rice.

    Serve with

    The rice rottis themselves, with sliced onion and a wedge of lime.

  • Mangalorean Chicken Ghee Roast

    Chicken ghee roast was popularised in the 1950s by Shetty Lunch Home in Kundapur and later spread across Mangalore and the rest of India. It is a dish of the Bunt community, and its intensity comes from a paste of roasted Byadgi chillies, coriander, cumin, pepper, fenugreek and garlic, cooked in plenty of ghee with tamarind and jaggery.

    The result is a deep red, semi-dry dish with a glossy coating of masala. It is tangy, smoky, spicy and buttery all at once, with the ghee carrying the aroma. Despite the colour, Byadgi chillies keep the heat manageable. It is served as a starter or with neer dosa, appam or kori rotti.

    At a glance

    RegionKarnataka
    CuisineMangalorean
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time65 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / ghee / byadgi chillies / tamarind / garlic

    Ingredients

    For the marinade

    • 750 g chicken, small bone-in pieces
    • 1/2 cup thick curd
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 tsp salt

    For the roast masala

    • 15 Byadgi chillies, seeds removed
    • 2 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 4 cloves
    • 12 garlic cloves
    • 2 tsp tamarind paste

    For the roast

    • 6 tbsp ghee, divided
    • 1 tsp grated jaggery
    • salt to taste
    • 1 sprig curry leaves

    Method

    1. Marinate the chicken in curd, turmeric, lemon juice and salt for at least 30 minutes.
    2. Dry roast the chillies on low heat for 1-2 minutes until crisp but not dark. Remove, then roast coriander, cumin, pepper, fenugreek and cloves for 2-3 minutes until fragrant.
    3. Soak the roasted chillies in 1/4 cup warm water for 10 minutes, then grind everything with the garlic and tamarind to a very smooth paste, using the soaking water.
    4. Heat 2 tbsp ghee in a heavy pan. Add the chicken and cook on medium-high heat for 8-10 minutes, until browned and almost cooked through. Remove the chicken, leaving the juices in the pan.
    5. Add 3 tbsp ghee to the pan, lower the heat to medium and add the ground paste. Fry, stirring constantly, for 8-10 minutes until it darkens slightly, smells roasted and the ghee separates. Add a splash of water if it sticks.
    6. Add the chicken with its juices, the jaggery and salt. Toss on medium heat for 8-10 minutes until the masala thickens and coats the chicken.
    7. Add the remaining tablespoon of ghee and the curry leaves and roast for 2 more minutes until glossy. Serve hot.

    Tips

    • Byadgi chillies are essential for the colour; Kashmiri chillies are the closest substitute.
    • Roasting the paste in ghee until it separates is what gives the dish its depth; do not cut this short.
    • Prawns or paneer can be made the same way; reduce the cooking time accordingly.

    Serve with

    Neer dosa, appam, kori rotti or ghee rice, or on its own as a starter.

  • Karimeen Pollichathu

    Karimeen, the pearl spot fish, is the state fish of Kerala and lives in the brackish backwaters of Kuttanad and Kumarakom. Pollichathu means roasted in a parcel, and karimeen pollichathu is the dish houseboat cooks and toddy shops are best known for. The fish is first fried, then wrapped in a banana leaf with a thick masala and roasted on a pan.

    Inside the parcel the fish steams in the masala and absorbs the aroma of the leaf, while the outside stays slightly crisp. The masala is tangy and spicy, built on shallots, tomato, ginger, garlic and kudampuli or lemon, often enriched with coconut milk. Opened at the table, the charred leaf releases a smoky, fragrant steam.

    At a glance

    RegionKerala
    CuisineKerala
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time65 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspearl spot fish / shallots / tomato / banana leaf / coconut oil

    Ingredients

    For the marinade

    • 3 pearl spot fish (karimeen), about 200 g each, cleaned and scored
    • 1.5 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp crushed black pepper
    • 1 tsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 3/4 tsp salt

    For the masala

    • 3 tbsp coconut oil, plus extra for frying
    • 15 shallots, sliced
    • 1 inch ginger, chopped
    • 6 garlic cloves, chopped
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 2 sprigs curry leaves
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 2 tomatoes, chopped
    • 1 piece kudampuli, soaked in 2 tbsp water, or 1 tsp lemon juice
    • 1/2 cup thick coconut milk
    • salt to taste

    For wrapping

    • 3 large pieces of banana leaf, wilted over a flame
    • kitchen string or banana fibre

    Method

    1. Make deep diagonal cuts on both sides of each fish. Mix the marinade ingredients into a thick paste, rub it into the cuts and all over the fish, and marinate for 30 minutes.
    2. Shallow fry the fish in coconut oil on medium heat for 2-3 minutes per side until lightly crisp but not fully cooked. Set aside.
    3. In the same pan, add 3 tbsp coconut oil. Fry the shallots on medium heat for 6-7 minutes until golden. Add ginger, garlic, green chillies and a sprig of curry leaves and fry 2 minutes.
    4. Lower the heat, add chilli, coriander and turmeric powders and stir for 30 seconds. Add tomatoes, kudampuli with its water and salt, and cook for 6-8 minutes until thick and jammy.
    5. Stir in the coconut milk and cook for 2 more minutes until the masala is thick enough to coat a spoon.
    6. Lay out the banana leaves, brush with coconut oil, and spread a spoon of masala in the centre of each. Place a fish on top, cover with more masala and a few curry leaves, fold the leaf into a parcel and tie it.
    7. Heat a flat pan on medium-low, add a drizzle of oil and place the parcels on it. Cover and cook for 7-8 minutes per side until the leaves are charred and brown.
    8. Serve the parcels whole and open them at the table.

    Tips

    • Wilting the banana leaf over a flame makes it pliable so it does not crack while folding.
    • If karimeen is unavailable, pomfret or tilapia works well.
    • Keep the heat low while roasting the parcels so the fish heats through before the leaf burns.

    Serve with

    Kerala matta rice or appam, with a glass of buttermilk.

  • Beef Ularthiyathu

    Beef ularthiyathu, often called beef fry or beef roast, is a signature dish of Kerala's Syrian Christian kitchens and a fixture at weddings, Christmas and toddy shops. Ularthu means to roast or dry-fry, and that long roasting is what makes it: tender beef tossed for a long time in coconut oil until it darkens and the masala clings.

    Thin slivers of coconut, called thenga kothu, are fried until crisp and add bite. The spicing is warm and peppery, built on fennel, garam masala and black pepper, with curry leaves throughout. The finished dish is almost black, crusty at the edges and very aromatic. It is eaten with parotta, appam or rice and is often made a day ahead, since it improves overnight.

    At a glance

    RegionKerala
    CuisineSyrian Christian
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time70 minutes
    Total time95 minutes
    Serves5
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbeef / coconut slivers / shallots / black pepper / coconut oil

    Ingredients

    For cooking the beef

    • 1 kg beef, cut into 2 cm cubes
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 2 tbsp coriander powder
    • 1.5 tsp garam masala
    • 1 tsp fennel powder
    • 1.5 tsp crushed black pepper
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1.5 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp vinegar
    • 1 sprig curry leaves

    For roasting

    • 4 tbsp coconut oil
    • 1/2 cup thin coconut slivers
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 15 shallots, sliced
    • 1 inch ginger, julienned
    • 6 garlic cloves, sliced
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 3 sprigs curry leaves
    • 1 tsp crushed black pepper
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala

    Method

    1. Mix the beef with all the ingredients for cooking and marinate for at least 30 minutes.
    2. Pressure cook the beef without adding water for 5-6 whistles on medium heat, until tender. The beef will release its own juices. Let the pressure drop naturally.
    3. Heat coconut oil in a heavy, wide kadai or uruli on medium heat. Fry the coconut slivers for 4-5 minutes until golden brown. Remove and set aside.
    4. In the same oil splutter mustard seeds, then add shallots, ginger, garlic, green chillies and two sprigs of curry leaves. Fry for 8 minutes until the shallots are golden brown.
    5. Add the cooked beef with all its liquid. Cook on high heat for 8-10 minutes, stirring, until the liquid evaporates.
    6. Return the fried coconut slivers and lower the heat to medium-low. Keep roasting for 20-25 minutes, stirring and scraping the bottom every few minutes, until the beef turns very dark brown, almost black, and crisp at the edges.
    7. Add the crushed pepper, garam masala and remaining curry leaves, toss for 2 more minutes and switch off.

    Tips

    • A cast-iron or heavy aluminium kadai gives the best crust; nonstick pans do not let the masala caramelise.
    • Add a spoon of coconut oil during roasting if the pan looks dry.
    • The flavour deepens overnight; reheat in a pan with a little oil to re-crisp.

    Serve with

    Kerala parotta, appam or matta rice with moru curry.

  • Mutton Chukka

    Chukka means dry, and mutton chukka or chukka varuval is a fixture of Madurai and Chettinad military hotels, the old non-vegetarian eateries of Tamil Nadu. Unlike a kuzhambu it has no gravy; the meat is cooked until tender and then roasted in a kadai with shallots and spices until everything clings to the pieces.

    The flavour leans on black pepper and fennel rather than chilli powder, with gingelly oil and curry leaves giving it its southern character. The mutton should be tender inside and slightly caramelised outside, dark brown and coated in a thick masala. It is usually served as a side with rice and rasam, or as a starter.

    At a glance

    RegionTamil Nadu
    CuisineTamil
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time70 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / shallots / black pepper / fennel / curry leaves

    Ingredients

    For pressure cooking

    • 500 g mutton (goat), small bone-in pieces
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 tsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1/2 cup water

    For the roast

    • 3 tbsp gingelly oil
    • 1 tsp fennel seeds
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 2 cloves
    • 2 sprigs curry leaves
    • 20 shallots, sliced
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1.5 tsp coriander powder
    • 1.5 tsp freshly crushed black pepper
    • 1/2 tsp fennel powder
    • salt to taste
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the mutton with turmeric, salt, ginger-garlic paste and 1/2 cup water for 5-6 whistles on medium heat, until tender. Let the pressure release naturally. Do not discard the stock.
    2. Heat gingelly oil in a heavy kadai on medium heat. Add fennel seeds, cinnamon and cloves and fry for a few seconds until fragrant.
    3. Add one sprig of curry leaves and the shallots and fry for 8-10 minutes until deep golden brown. This browning gives the chukka its colour.
    4. Add ginger-garlic paste and green chillies and fry for 2 minutes.
    5. Lower the heat and add chilli powder and coriander powder. Stir for 30 seconds, adding a splash of the mutton stock if the masala starts to stick.
    6. Add the cooked mutton with its stock. Cook on medium-high heat, stirring, for 10-12 minutes until the liquid evaporates.
    7. Add crushed pepper, fennel powder and the second sprig of curry leaves. Keep roasting on medium heat for another 5-8 minutes, scraping the pan, until the mutton turns dark brown, the masala coats each piece and oil separates.
    8. Check salt, finish with coriander leaves and serve hot.

    Tips

    • Use mutton from the shoulder or leg with some fat; very lean meat turns dry when roasted.
    • Crush the pepper fresh just before adding; pre-ground pepper lacks the punch this dish needs.
    • Patience in the final roasting stage is what separates chukka from a semi-dry curry.

    Serve with

    Rice with rasam or a light dal, or as a starter with sliced onions and lemon.

  • Kara Kuzhambu

    Kara kuzhambu means spicy gravy, and it is the dish Tamil homes make when they want something bold without dal. It is built on tamarind, gingelly oil and a generous amount of chilli, and is cooked down until the oil floats on top. Because of the tamarind and oil it keeps for two or three days without refrigeration, so it was a practical dish in villages.

    Small onions and whole garlic cloves are the classic vegetables, often with brinjal, drumstick or ladies finger. The gravy is thick, glossy and sharply sour-hot, with sweetness from the shallots and a touch of jaggery. A small amount goes a long way, mixed into hot rice with a spoon of gingelly oil.

    At a glance

    RegionTamil Nadu
    CuisineTamil
    DietVegan
    CourseMain course
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time45 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientstamarind / shallots / garlic / brinjal / gingelly oil

    Ingredients

    • lemon-sized ball of tamarind, soaked in 2 cups warm water
    • 4 tbsp gingelly oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 1 tsp chana dal
    • 2 dry red chillies
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 15 shallots, peeled
    • 12 garlic cloves, peeled
    • 3 small brinjals, quartered
    • 1 tomato, chopped
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 2 tbsp sambar powder
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp salt, or to taste
    • 1 tsp grated jaggery
    • 1 tsp rice flour mixed in 2 tbsp water (optional)

    Method

    1. Extract thick tamarind water from the soaked tamarind, about 2 cups, and strain.
    2. Heat gingelly oil in a clay pot or heavy kadai on medium heat. Add mustard seeds, and when they splutter add fenugreek, chana dal and red chillies. Fry until the fenugreek turns reddish brown, about 30 seconds, but not black.
    3. Add curry leaves, shallots and garlic and fry for 5-6 minutes until the shallots are soft and golden.
    4. Add the brinjal and fry for 3 minutes, then add tomato and cook until mushy.
    5. Lower the heat, add turmeric, sambar powder and chilli powder and stir for 1 minute so the spices roast in the oil without burning.
    6. Pour in the tamarind water, add salt and bring to a boil. Simmer on low-medium heat uncovered for 15-20 minutes, until the brinjal is soft, the gravy thickens and oil separates and floats on top.
    7. Stir in jaggery. If the gravy is still thin, add the rice flour slurry and simmer 2 minutes more.
    8. Rest for at least 30 minutes before serving; kara kuzhambu tastes better a few hours later.

    Tips

    • Gingelly oil is essential for the authentic taste; groundnut oil is the only reasonable substitute.
    • Do not rush the simmering; the raw tamarind taste must cook out completely.
    • Sun-dried sundakkai or manathakkali vathal fried in the oil at the start turns this into vatha kuzhambu.

    Serve with

    Hot rice with a spoon of gingelly oil, appalam and keerai poriyal or a mild kootu.

  • Chettinad Chicken

    The Nattukottai Chettiars of the Karaikudi belt were merchants who traded across Burma, Ceylon and Malaya, and their kitchens show it. Spices that were luxuries elsewhere were everyday stock in Chettinad homes, and dishes like this chicken kuzhambu are built on a masala roasted and ground fresh for each pot, never taken from a jar.

    The flavour is deep, peppery and smoky rather than simply hot. Kalpasi (stone flower) adds an earthy, almost mossy note, marathi mokku gives a mild mustardy bitterness, and roasted coconut thickens the gravy. In Chettinad homes it is a Sunday dish, eaten with plain rice first and then with idli or dosa the next morning, when the gravy has settled and tastes even better.

    At a glance

    RegionTamil Nadu
    CuisineChettinad
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time45 minutes
    Total time75 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / dry red chillies / coconut / black pepper / shallots

    Ingredients

    For the marinade

    • 750 g bone-in chicken, curry cut
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 3 tbsp thick curd

    For the Chettinad masala

    • 6-8 dry red chillies (mix of Guntur and Kashmiri)
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 1 tsp fennel seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 4 cloves
    • 2 green cardamoms
    • 2 inch cinnamon
    • 1 piece kalpasi (stone flower)
    • 1 marathi mokku
    • 1 star anise
    • 1/3 cup grated coconut

    For the gravy

    • 3 tbsp gingelly (sesame) oil
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 15 shallots, sliced
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 medium tomatoes, chopped
    • 1 tsp salt, or to taste
    • 1.5 cups water
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Mix the chicken with turmeric, salt and curd and keep aside for at least 30 minutes.
    2. In a dry pan on low heat, roast the red chillies, coriander, pepper, fennel, cumin, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, kalpasi, marathi mokku and star anise for 4-5 minutes, stirring constantly, until fragrant and the coriander turns a shade darker. Tip onto a plate.
    3. In the same pan roast the coconut on low heat for 3-4 minutes until golden brown and dry. Grind the spices to a powder first, then add the coconut and about 1/2 cup water and grind to a smooth paste.
    4. Heat the gingelly oil in a heavy kadai on medium heat. Add curry leaves and the sliced shallots and fry for 6-7 minutes until soft and golden at the edges.
    5. Add ginger-garlic paste and saute for 1 minute until the raw smell goes. Add tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes, mashing, until they collapse and oil appears at the sides.
    6. Add the marinated chicken, raise heat to medium-high and toss for 5-6 minutes until the pieces turn opaque on the outside.
    7. Stir in the ground masala and salt, and fry with the chicken for 3-4 minutes so the masala loses its raw taste and coats every piece.
    8. Pour in 1.5 cups water, bring to a boil, then cover and simmer on low heat for 20-25 minutes, stirring once or twice, until the chicken is tender and the gravy is thick with a film of red oil on top.
    9. Finish with chopped coriander, rest covered for 10 minutes and serve.

    Tips

    • Roast spices on low heat only; burnt fennel or chillies turn the whole gravy bitter.
    • Kalpasi and marathi mokku are available at any Tamil grocery; skip them if you must, but the dish loses its signature aroma.
    • For a drier pepper fry version, reduce the water to 1/2 cup and cook uncovered at the end until the masala clings.

    Serve with

    Steamed ponni rice, idli or flaky parotta, with a raw onion and curd salad on the side.