Tag: Medium to make

  • Neer Dosa

    Neer dosa, meaning water dosa in Tulu, is a breakfast staple of the Mangalore and Udupi region. The batter is made only from soaked rice and a little coconut, ground fine and thinned with water until it is almost like milk. It needs no fermentation, so it can be made the same morning.

    The dosas are thin, soft and delicate with a lacy surface full of tiny holes, and they are cooked on one side only, never crisped or browned. They are folded into triangles and served with coconut chutney or, in Mangalorean homes, with chicken curry or kori gassi. The mild flavour makes them a perfect partner for rich, spicy gravies.

    At a glance

    RegionKarnataka
    CuisineMangalorean
    DietVegan
    CourseBreakfast
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time40 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / coconut / water

    Ingredients

    • 1.5 cups raw rice (dosa rice or sona masoori), soaked 4-6 hours
    • 1/2 cup freshly grated coconut
    • 3/4 tsp salt
    • about 3 cups water
    • oil for greasing the tawa

    Method

    1. Drain the soaked rice and grind it with the coconut and 1 cup water to a very smooth batter. Rub a little between your fingers; it should feel completely fine with no grit.
    2. Transfer to a bowl, add salt and stir in about 2 cups more water to get a very thin batter, like thin buttermilk.
    3. Heat a nonstick or well-seasoned iron tawa on medium-high heat. Grease lightly with oil.
    4. Stir the batter well each time, since the rice settles at the bottom. Take a ladleful and pour it from the edge of the tawa in a circle, moving inwards to fill the gaps. Do not spread with the ladle.
    5. Cover and cook for about 1 minute until the top looks set and white, with tiny holes, and the edges start to lift. It should not brown.
    6. Without flipping, fold the dosa in half and then in half again to form a triangle, and lift it onto a plate.
    7. Grease the tawa lightly again and repeat. Do not stack hot dosas flat or they stick; keep them folded and slightly apart.

    Tips

    • The batter must be very thin; if the dosa is thick or does not form holes, add more water.
    • A hot tawa is essential for the lacy pattern, but reduce heat if the dosas start browning.
    • Use the batter within the day; it does not need or benefit from fermentation.

    Serve with

    Coconut chutney, kori gassi (Mangalorean chicken curry), or jaggery with grated coconut.

  • Unniyappam

    Unniyappam, literally small appam, is a sweet fritter made in Kerala homes and temples for Vishu, Karthika Deepam and Krishna Jayanthi. It is also a common offering at temples like Kottarakkara, where it is the main prasadam. The batter is made from rice, jaggery and ripe banana and fried in a special pan with round cavities.

    A good unniyappam has a thin, crisp, dark brown shell and a soft, spongy, almost custardy centre. Flavours of jaggery, banana and cardamom come through, and fried coconut bits add little bursts of crunch. They keep for two or three days, which made them a traditional travelling snack. In many homes the first batch is offered at the pooja room before anyone eats.

    At a glance

    RegionKerala
    CuisineKerala
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / jaggery / banana / coconut / ghee

    Ingredients

    • 1 cup raw rice, soaked 4 hours
    • 3/4 cup grated jaggery
    • 1/3 cup water for melting jaggery
    • 2 small ripe bananas (palayamkodan or poovan), or 1 robusta
    • 2 tbsp wheat flour or rava (optional, for softness)
    • 1/2 tsp cardamom powder
    • pinch of salt
    • 1/4 tsp baking soda
    • 3 tbsp thin coconut bits (thenga kothu)
    • 1 tsp black sesame seeds
    • ghee and coconut oil for frying, about 1 cup

    Method

    1. Melt the jaggery with 1/3 cup water on low heat until dissolved. Strain to remove impurities and cool.
    2. Drain the rice and grind with the bananas and jaggery syrup to a thick, slightly coarse batter, like idli batter. Add water only if absolutely necessary.
    3. Transfer to a bowl, stir in the wheat flour, cardamom and salt, and rest for 2-4 hours. The batter will become slightly airy.
    4. Fry the coconut bits in 1 tsp ghee until golden and add them to the batter with the sesame seeds. Stir in the baking soda just before frying.
    5. Heat the appam pan on medium heat and fill each cavity half full with ghee or a mix of ghee and coconut oil.
    6. When the fat is hot, pour batter into each cavity until three-quarters full. Fry on medium-low heat for 2-3 minutes until the base is deep brown.
    7. Turn each unniyappam with a skewer and fry the other side for 2 minutes until evenly brown.
    8. Lift out, drain on a rack, and repeat. Serve warm or at room temperature.

    Tips

    • The batter should be thick; a thin batter absorbs too much fat.
    • Overripe bananas give the softest and sweetest unniyappam.
    • Keep the heat moderate so the centres cook through before the shells darken too much.

    Serve with

    Black tea or coffee in the evening; also offered as temple prasadam.

  • Palada Payasam

    Palada pradhaman, often simply called palada payasam, is the crowning sweet of many Onam and wedding sadyas. It is made with ada, thin flakes of steamed rice, cooked slowly in milk and sugar. The milk reduces and caramelises gently, turning a soft pink colour without any colouring, and the ada becomes silky and tender.

    The famous Ambalappuzha temple payasam is a related milk-and-rice preparation, and the slow-cooked pink colour is the mark of a well-made palada. It is rich, creamy and sweet with a hint of cardamom, and it is served warm at the end of the meal, sometimes poured over a crumbled pappadam and a banana.

    At a glance

    RegionKerala
    CuisineKerala
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time75 minutes
    Total time85 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice ada / milk / sugar / ghee / cardamom

    Ingredients

    • 1/2 cup rice ada (store-bought or homemade)
    • 1.5 litres full-fat milk
    • 3/4 cup sugar
    • 2 tbsp ghee
    • 1/2 tsp cardamom powder
    • 10 cashews, halved (optional)
    • 1 tbsp raisins (optional)

    Method

    1. Bring 4 cups of water to a boil, add the ada, switch off and leave for 30 minutes until soft. Drain and rinse in cold water so the flakes do not stick together.
    2. Pour the milk into a heavy, wide pan and bring to a boil on medium heat, stirring so it does not catch.
    3. Add the drained ada and the sugar. Lower the heat to low-medium and simmer, stirring every few minutes and scraping the bottom and sides.
    4. Continue for 50-60 minutes. The milk will reduce by about half, thicken, and gradually turn from white to cream to light pink.
    5. When the payasam is pink, creamy and the ada is completely soft, add 1 tbsp ghee and the cardamom powder.
    6. If using, fry cashews and raisins in the remaining ghee until golden and add to the payasam.
    7. Switch off and let it rest for 15 minutes; it will thicken further as it cools. Serve warm.

    Tips

    • A wide, heavy pan speeds up reduction and prevents scorching.
    • The pink colour comes only from long, slow cooking of milk and sugar together; do not rush it on high heat.
    • Pressure cooking milk, sugar and ada on low heat for 45 minutes, as some caterers do, also gives the pink colour, but watch it carefully.

    Serve with

    Served warm at the end of the sadya, traditionally with a small crushed pappadam.

  • Beef Ularthiyathu

    Beef ularthiyathu, often called beef fry or beef roast, is a signature dish of Kerala's Syrian Christian kitchens and a fixture at weddings, Christmas and toddy shops. Ularthu means to roast or dry-fry, and that long roasting is what makes it: tender beef tossed for a long time in coconut oil until it darkens and the masala clings.

    Thin slivers of coconut, called thenga kothu, are fried until crisp and add bite. The spicing is warm and peppery, built on fennel, garam masala and black pepper, with curry leaves throughout. The finished dish is almost black, crusty at the edges and very aromatic. It is eaten with parotta, appam or rice and is often made a day ahead, since it improves overnight.

    At a glance

    RegionKerala
    CuisineSyrian Christian
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time70 minutes
    Total time95 minutes
    Serves5
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbeef / coconut slivers / shallots / black pepper / coconut oil

    Ingredients

    For cooking the beef

    • 1 kg beef, cut into 2 cm cubes
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 2 tbsp coriander powder
    • 1.5 tsp garam masala
    • 1 tsp fennel powder
    • 1.5 tsp crushed black pepper
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1.5 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp vinegar
    • 1 sprig curry leaves

    For roasting

    • 4 tbsp coconut oil
    • 1/2 cup thin coconut slivers
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 15 shallots, sliced
    • 1 inch ginger, julienned
    • 6 garlic cloves, sliced
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 3 sprigs curry leaves
    • 1 tsp crushed black pepper
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala

    Method

    1. Mix the beef with all the ingredients for cooking and marinate for at least 30 minutes.
    2. Pressure cook the beef without adding water for 5-6 whistles on medium heat, until tender. The beef will release its own juices. Let the pressure drop naturally.
    3. Heat coconut oil in a heavy, wide kadai or uruli on medium heat. Fry the coconut slivers for 4-5 minutes until golden brown. Remove and set aside.
    4. In the same oil splutter mustard seeds, then add shallots, ginger, garlic, green chillies and two sprigs of curry leaves. Fry for 8 minutes until the shallots are golden brown.
    5. Add the cooked beef with all its liquid. Cook on high heat for 8-10 minutes, stirring, until the liquid evaporates.
    6. Return the fried coconut slivers and lower the heat to medium-low. Keep roasting for 20-25 minutes, stirring and scraping the bottom every few minutes, until the beef turns very dark brown, almost black, and crisp at the edges.
    7. Add the crushed pepper, garam masala and remaining curry leaves, toss for 2 more minutes and switch off.

    Tips

    • A cast-iron or heavy aluminium kadai gives the best crust; nonstick pans do not let the masala caramelise.
    • Add a spoon of coconut oil during roasting if the pan looks dry.
    • The flavour deepens overnight; reheat in a pan with a little oil to re-crisp.

    Serve with

    Kerala parotta, appam or matta rice with moru curry.

  • Avial

    Avial is one of the essential dishes of the Onam sadya and appears on almost every Kerala feast. A popular story credits Bhima, the Pandava, with inventing it while working as a cook in disguise, throwing together whatever vegetables were at hand. Regional versions differ: central Kerala uses curd for sourness, while some northern homes use raw mango or tamarind.

    The vegetables are cut into finger-length batons and cooked until just tender, then coated with a coarsely ground coconut paste. The dish is thick, not watery, mildly spiced, tangy and fragrant with raw coconut oil and curry leaves. It is eaten with rice as part of a spread, and with adai in Tamil Nadu.

    At a glance

    RegionKerala
    CuisineKerala
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time45 minutes
    Serves5
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmixed vegetables / coconut / curd / coconut oil / curry leaves

    Ingredients

    For the vegetables

    • 4 cups mixed vegetables cut into 5 cm batons: raw banana, elephant foot yam, ash gourd, drumstick, carrot, French beans, snake gourd, cucumber
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/2 cup water

    For the coconut paste

    • 1.25 cups grated coconut
    • 3-4 green chillies
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 2 shallots

    To finish

    • 1/2 cup thick curd, lightly sour, whisked
    • 2 sprigs curry leaves
    • 2 tbsp raw coconut oil

    Method

    1. Cut all vegetables into batons of similar length and thickness. Keep the raw banana in water to stop it darkening.
    2. Put the yam and raw banana, which take longest, in a wide pan with turmeric, salt and 1/2 cup water. Cover and cook on medium heat for 5 minutes.
    3. Add carrot, beans and drumstick and cook covered for 4 minutes. Then add ash gourd, snake gourd and cucumber and cook another 4-5 minutes, until all vegetables are tender but hold their shape.
    4. Meanwhile pulse the coconut, green chillies, cumin and shallots in a grinder with a splash of water to a coarse paste. It should not be smooth.
    5. Add the coconut paste to the vegetables and fold gently. Cook on low heat for 3-4 minutes, uncovered, until any remaining water dries up and the raw coconut smell goes.
    6. Switch off the heat and let it cool for a minute, then stir in the whisked curd gently.
    7. Crush the curry leaves in your hand, scatter them over and drizzle with raw coconut oil. Cover and leave for 10 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Stir gently with a flat spatula or by shaking the pan; avial vegetables should not be mashed.
    • Add curd off the heat so it does not split.
    • Unrefined virgin coconut oil, added raw at the end, gives avial its signature aroma.

    Serve with

    Rice with sambar and pappadam as part of a sadya, or with adai.

  • Puttu and Kadala Curry

    Puttu and kadala curry is the breakfast most Malayalis grew up with. Puttu is coarse rice flour, moistened and layered with grated coconut in a cylindrical steamer called a puttu kutti, then steamed until it holds its shape. It is pushed out as a log and broken up at the table. Kadala curry, made with small black chickpeas, is its most popular companion.

    The puttu is soft, crumbly and lightly salted, with sweetness from the coconut. The curry is earthy and robust, thickened with coconut roasted until dark brown, which gives it its colour and nutty depth. People mash the puttu with the curry by hand, sometimes adding a ripe banana or pappadam on the side.

    At a glance

    RegionKerala
    CuisineKerala
    DietVegan
    CourseBreakfast
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time45 minutes
    Total time65 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice flour / coconut / black chickpeas / shallots

    Ingredients

    For the puttu

    • 2 cups roasted puttu podi (coarse rice flour)
    • 3/4 tsp salt
    • about 3/4 cup water
    • 1 cup freshly grated coconut

    For the kadala curry

    • 1 cup kala chana (black chickpeas), soaked overnight
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 cup grated coconut
    • 1 tbsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 2 tbsp coconut oil
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 8 shallots, sliced
    • 1 inch ginger, chopped
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 2 sprigs curry leaves
    • 1 small tomato, chopped

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the soaked chickpeas with salt and 2.5 cups water for 6-7 whistles on medium heat, until soft. Keep the cooking water.
    2. In a dry pan, roast the grated coconut on medium-low heat for 8-10 minutes, stirring constantly, until deep brown and fragrant. Add coriander powder, chilli powder and turmeric, roast 30 seconds more, cool and grind to a fine paste with a little water.
    3. Heat coconut oil, splutter mustard seeds, then add shallots, ginger, green chillies and one sprig of curry leaves. Saute for 5 minutes until golden. Add tomato and cook until soft.
    4. Add the chickpeas with their water and the coconut paste. Simmer for 10-12 minutes on low heat until the gravy thickens. Mash a few chickpeas against the pan to thicken it more. Stir in garam masala and the remaining curry leaves.
    5. For the puttu, mix the rice flour and salt. Sprinkle water a little at a time, rubbing with your fingers, until the flour is evenly moist and holds together when pressed but breaks apart easily. It should feel like wet sand, not dough.
    6. Fill the puttu kutti: a layer of 2 tbsp coconut at the bottom, then rice flour up to about a third, then coconut, repeating until full, ending with coconut. Do not press down.
    7. Steam on high heat over boiling water for 6-8 minutes, until steam comes out steadily from the top holes. Push the puttu out onto a plate with the rod.
    8. Serve hot with the kadala curry.

    Tips

    • If you lack a puttu kutti, steam the moistened flour in idli moulds or a pressure cooker vessel with a coconut-shell attachment.
    • Rubbing the flour with water is the whole technique; too wet and puttu turns heavy, too dry and it falls apart.
    • Roast the coconut evenly and patiently; it is what makes the curry dark and nutty.

    Serve with

    Pappadam and a ripe small banana (poovan pazham), or a cup of hot tea.

  • Appam with Vegetable Stew

    Appam and stew is the classic breakfast of Kerala's Syrian Christian homes, and it is the dish served on Easter and Christmas mornings. Appam is made from a fermented batter of rice and coconut, traditionally raised with toddy, and cooked in a small round pan called an appachatti, which is swirled to give it its bowl shape.

    A good appam has a lacy, crisp, golden rim and a thick, spongy, slightly sweet centre. The stew, or ishtu, is mild and fragrant: vegetables simmered in thin coconut milk with whole spices, green chillies and ginger, and finished with thick coconut milk. Nothing is fried brown or heavily spiced, so the coconut flavour leads.

    At a glance

    RegionKerala
    CuisineKerala
    DietVegan
    CourseBreakfast
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time40 minutes
    Total time70 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / coconut / coconut milk / potato / carrot

    Ingredients

    For the appam batter

    • 1.5 cups raw rice (pachari), soaked 5 hours
    • 1 cup fresh grated coconut
    • 1/2 cup cooked rice
    • 1 tsp instant yeast
    • 2 tbsp sugar
    • 3/4 tsp salt
    • about 1 cup water

    For the stew

    • 2 tbsp coconut oil
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 3 cloves
    • 3 green cardamoms
    • 1/2 tsp black peppercorns
    • 1 large onion, sliced
    • 1 inch ginger, julienned
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 1 large potato, cubed
    • 1 carrot, cubed
    • 1/2 cup French beans, cut
    • 1/2 cup green peas
    • 1.5 cups thin coconut milk
    • 3/4 cup thick coconut milk
    • 1 tsp salt, or to taste

    Method

    1. Grind the soaked rice, grated coconut, cooked rice, sugar and yeast with water to a very smooth, flowing batter. Cover and ferment in a warm place for 8 hours or overnight, until doubled and bubbly. Stir in salt; the batter should be like thin pancake batter.
    2. For the stew, heat coconut oil in a pan on medium heat. Add cinnamon, cloves, cardamom and peppercorns and fry for 20 seconds.
    3. Add onion, ginger, green chillies and curry leaves and saute for 3-4 minutes until the onion is soft but not browned.
    4. Add the potato, carrot, beans and peas with the thin coconut milk and salt. Cover and simmer on low heat for 12-15 minutes until the vegetables are tender.
    5. Lower the heat to the minimum and stir in the thick coconut milk. Heat for 1-2 minutes until just hot; do not let it boil, or the milk will split. Switch off.
    6. To make appam, heat an appachatti on medium heat and grease lightly. Pour in a ladle of batter, lift the pan by its handles and swirl once so the batter coats the sides thinly and pools in the centre.
    7. Cover and cook on medium-low heat for 2-3 minutes until the edges are golden and crisp and the centre is set and spongy. Do not flip.
    8. Loosen with a spatula and serve straight away with the stew.

    Tips

    • The cooked rice in the batter gives appam its soft, spongy centre.
    • Thick coconut milk goes in at the very end on low heat to keep the stew creamy and white.
    • In cold weather, ferment the batter in an oven with only the light switched on.

    Serve with

    Serve the stew poured over the appam; chicken or mutton stew is the festive alternative.

  • Puliyodarai

    Puliyodarai, also called puli sadam or tamarind rice, is the most famous prasadam of Vaishnava temples in Tamil Nadu, and Iyengar families have kept the recipe as a point of pride. The heart of it is pulikachal, a tamarind paste cooked slowly in gingelly oil until thick and dark. Made in bulk, the paste keeps for weeks and turns leftover rice into a meal in minutes.

    The flavour is sour, spicy and slightly sweet, with a nutty depth from roasted sesame and fenugreek. Good puliyodarai is glossy and well coated, each grain brown and separate. It tastes better a few hours after mixing, which is why it is the standard food for train journeys and pilgrimages.

    At a glance

    RegionTamil Nadu
    CuisineIyengar
    DietVegan
    CourseRice
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / tamarind / sesame seeds / peanuts / gingelly oil

    Ingredients

    For the spice powder

    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp chana dal
    • 1 tsp urad dal
    • 1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 1/2 tsp black peppercorns
    • 4 dry red chillies
    • 1 tbsp white sesame seeds

    For the pulikachal

    • large lemon-sized ball of tamarind (about 60 g), soaked in 1.5 cups hot water
    • 1/3 cup gingelly oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tbsp chana dal
    • 1 tsp urad dal
    • 3 tbsp raw peanuts
    • 3 dry red chillies, broken
    • 2 sprigs curry leaves
    • 1/2 tsp asafoetida
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1.5 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp grated jaggery

    For the rice

    • 4 cups cooked rice (from 1.25 cups raw), cooled
    • 1 tbsp gingelly oil

    Method

    1. Dry roast the coriander, chana dal, urad dal, fenugreek, pepper and red chillies on low heat for 4-5 minutes until golden and fragrant. Add sesame in the last minute and roast until it pops. Cool and grind to a fine powder.
    2. Extract about 1.5 cups of thick tamarind extract and strain.
    3. Heat the gingelly oil in a heavy kadai on medium heat. Fry the peanuts for 2 minutes until crunchy, then add mustard seeds and let them splutter.
    4. Add chana dal, urad dal and red chillies and fry until the dals are golden. Add curry leaves and asafoetida.
    5. Pour in the tamarind extract with turmeric and salt. Bring to a boil, then simmer on low-medium heat for 20-25 minutes, stirring now and then, until it reduces to a thick paste and oil separates at the edges.
    6. Stir in jaggery and 3 tbsp of the spice powder and cook for 2 more minutes. This is the pulikachal.
    7. Spread the cooled rice in a wide bowl, drizzle with 1 tbsp gingelly oil and add about 4-5 tbsp of pulikachal and 1 tbsp more spice powder.
    8. Mix gently with your fingers or a flat spoon until every grain is coated. Taste and adjust. Rest for at least an hour before serving.

    Tips

    • Leftover pulikachal keeps in a clean dry jar in the fridge for a month, provided it is covered with oil.
    • Cooking the rice slightly firm with a few drops of oil keeps the grains separate.
    • Do not hurry the reduction; undercooked pulikachal tastes raw and sharp.

    Serve with

    Appalam, vadam and a cup of curd or curd rice.

  • Mutton Chukka

    Chukka means dry, and mutton chukka or chukka varuval is a fixture of Madurai and Chettinad military hotels, the old non-vegetarian eateries of Tamil Nadu. Unlike a kuzhambu it has no gravy; the meat is cooked until tender and then roasted in a kadai with shallots and spices until everything clings to the pieces.

    The flavour leans on black pepper and fennel rather than chilli powder, with gingelly oil and curry leaves giving it its southern character. The mutton should be tender inside and slightly caramelised outside, dark brown and coated in a thick masala. It is usually served as a side with rice and rasam, or as a starter.

    At a glance

    RegionTamil Nadu
    CuisineTamil
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time70 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / shallots / black pepper / fennel / curry leaves

    Ingredients

    For pressure cooking

    • 500 g mutton (goat), small bone-in pieces
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 tsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1/2 cup water

    For the roast

    • 3 tbsp gingelly oil
    • 1 tsp fennel seeds
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 2 cloves
    • 2 sprigs curry leaves
    • 20 shallots, sliced
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1.5 tsp coriander powder
    • 1.5 tsp freshly crushed black pepper
    • 1/2 tsp fennel powder
    • salt to taste
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the mutton with turmeric, salt, ginger-garlic paste and 1/2 cup water for 5-6 whistles on medium heat, until tender. Let the pressure release naturally. Do not discard the stock.
    2. Heat gingelly oil in a heavy kadai on medium heat. Add fennel seeds, cinnamon and cloves and fry for a few seconds until fragrant.
    3. Add one sprig of curry leaves and the shallots and fry for 8-10 minutes until deep golden brown. This browning gives the chukka its colour.
    4. Add ginger-garlic paste and green chillies and fry for 2 minutes.
    5. Lower the heat and add chilli powder and coriander powder. Stir for 30 seconds, adding a splash of the mutton stock if the masala starts to stick.
    6. Add the cooked mutton with its stock. Cook on medium-high heat, stirring, for 10-12 minutes until the liquid evaporates.
    7. Add crushed pepper, fennel powder and the second sprig of curry leaves. Keep roasting on medium heat for another 5-8 minutes, scraping the pan, until the mutton turns dark brown, the masala coats each piece and oil separates.
    8. Check salt, finish with coriander leaves and serve hot.

    Tips

    • Use mutton from the shoulder or leg with some fat; very lean meat turns dry when roasted.
    • Crush the pepper fresh just before adding; pre-ground pepper lacks the punch this dish needs.
    • Patience in the final roasting stage is what separates chukka from a semi-dry curry.

    Serve with

    Rice with rasam or a light dal, or as a starter with sliced onions and lemon.

  • Chettinad Chicken

    The Nattukottai Chettiars of the Karaikudi belt were merchants who traded across Burma, Ceylon and Malaya, and their kitchens show it. Spices that were luxuries elsewhere were everyday stock in Chettinad homes, and dishes like this chicken kuzhambu are built on a masala roasted and ground fresh for each pot, never taken from a jar.

    The flavour is deep, peppery and smoky rather than simply hot. Kalpasi (stone flower) adds an earthy, almost mossy note, marathi mokku gives a mild mustardy bitterness, and roasted coconut thickens the gravy. In Chettinad homes it is a Sunday dish, eaten with plain rice first and then with idli or dosa the next morning, when the gravy has settled and tastes even better.

    At a glance

    RegionTamil Nadu
    CuisineChettinad
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time45 minutes
    Total time75 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / dry red chillies / coconut / black pepper / shallots

    Ingredients

    For the marinade

    • 750 g bone-in chicken, curry cut
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 3 tbsp thick curd

    For the Chettinad masala

    • 6-8 dry red chillies (mix of Guntur and Kashmiri)
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 1 tsp fennel seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 4 cloves
    • 2 green cardamoms
    • 2 inch cinnamon
    • 1 piece kalpasi (stone flower)
    • 1 marathi mokku
    • 1 star anise
    • 1/3 cup grated coconut

    For the gravy

    • 3 tbsp gingelly (sesame) oil
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 15 shallots, sliced
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 medium tomatoes, chopped
    • 1 tsp salt, or to taste
    • 1.5 cups water
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Mix the chicken with turmeric, salt and curd and keep aside for at least 30 minutes.
    2. In a dry pan on low heat, roast the red chillies, coriander, pepper, fennel, cumin, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, kalpasi, marathi mokku and star anise for 4-5 minutes, stirring constantly, until fragrant and the coriander turns a shade darker. Tip onto a plate.
    3. In the same pan roast the coconut on low heat for 3-4 minutes until golden brown and dry. Grind the spices to a powder first, then add the coconut and about 1/2 cup water and grind to a smooth paste.
    4. Heat the gingelly oil in a heavy kadai on medium heat. Add curry leaves and the sliced shallots and fry for 6-7 minutes until soft and golden at the edges.
    5. Add ginger-garlic paste and saute for 1 minute until the raw smell goes. Add tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes, mashing, until they collapse and oil appears at the sides.
    6. Add the marinated chicken, raise heat to medium-high and toss for 5-6 minutes until the pieces turn opaque on the outside.
    7. Stir in the ground masala and salt, and fry with the chicken for 3-4 minutes so the masala loses its raw taste and coats every piece.
    8. Pour in 1.5 cups water, bring to a boil, then cover and simmer on low heat for 20-25 minutes, stirring once or twice, until the chicken is tender and the gravy is thick with a film of red oil on top.
    9. Finish with chopped coriander, rest covered for 10 minutes and serve.

    Tips

    • Roast spices on low heat only; burnt fennel or chillies turn the whole gravy bitter.
    • Kalpasi and marathi mokku are available at any Tamil grocery; skip them if you must, but the dish loses its signature aroma.
    • For a drier pepper fry version, reduce the water to 1/2 cup and cook uncovered at the end until the masala clings.

    Serve with

    Steamed ponni rice, idli or flaky parotta, with a raw onion and curd salad on the side.