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  • Gutti Vankaya Kura

    Gutti vankaya kura, stuffed brinjal curry, is one of the most loved vegetarian dishes of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana and a fixture of wedding and festival menus. Gutti means whole or stuffed, and vankaya means brinjal. Small, tender purple brinjals are slit into quarters while still attached at the stem and filled with a roasted spice powder.

    There are many regional versions; this one uses roasted peanuts, sesame, coriander and dry coconut with a little tamarind and jaggery. The brinjals cook slowly in oil until silky, and the stuffing forms a thick, nutty, spicy coating. It is semi-dry and rich, eaten with rice or chapati. Many Telugu cooks say a festival lunch is incomplete without it.

    At a glance

    RegionAndhra Pradesh
    CuisineAndhra
    DietVegan
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbrinjal / peanuts / sesame seeds / dry coconut / onion

    Ingredients

    For the stuffing

    • 3 tbsp raw peanuts
    • 1 tbsp sesame seeds
    • 2 tbsp dry coconut, grated
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 4 garlic cloves
    • 1 small onion, roughly chopped
    • 1.5 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp tamarind paste
    • 1 tsp grated jaggery
    • 1 tsp salt

    For the curry

    • 8-10 small round purple brinjals (about 400 g)
    • 4 tbsp groundnut oil
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 1/2 cup water
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Dry roast the peanuts on medium-low heat for 4-5 minutes until golden, then roast sesame until it pops, then coconut, coriander and cumin for 1-2 minutes until fragrant. Cool.
    2. Grind the roasted ingredients with garlic, onion, chilli powder, turmeric, tamarind, jaggery and salt to a coarse, thick paste, adding only a spoon or two of water.
    3. Wash the brinjals and make two deep cross slits from the bottom, leaving the stem end intact so each brinjal holds together. Keep in salted water while you work, then drain.
    4. Stuff each brinjal generously with the paste, pressing it into the slits. Keep the leftover paste.
    5. Heat oil in a wide, heavy pan. Splutter mustard and cumin seeds and add curry leaves.
    6. Arrange the brinjals in a single layer. Cover and cook on low heat for 8-10 minutes, turning them gently every few minutes, until they start to soften and brown on all sides.
    7. Mix the leftover paste with 1/2 cup water and pour it around the brinjals. Cover and cook on low heat for another 10-12 minutes until the brinjals are completely soft and the masala thickens and leaves oil at the edges.
    8. Garnish with coriander and serve.

    Tips

    • Use small, tender brinjals with shiny skin; older ones are seedy and bitter.
    • Turn the brinjals gently with a spoon or by shaking the pan so they do not break.
    • Groundnut oil gives the most authentic Andhra flavour.

    Serve with

    Hot rice with ghee, chapati or jowar rotti.

  • Gongura Mutton

    Gongura, the sour leaves of the roselle plant, are so loved in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana that they are often called the pride of Andhra. Gongura pachadi is a household staple, and gongura mamsam, mutton with gongura, is the famous non-vegetarian version. It is a regular on the menus of Andhra meals restaurants and a Sunday favourite at home.

    The leaves cook down into a thick, dark-green purée that clings to the mutton, giving an intense, natural sourness without tamarind. Combined with plenty of red chilli, it is a hot dish, balanced by the richness of the meat. It is eaten with hot rice and ghee or with jowar rotis.

    At a glance

    RegionAndhra Pradesh
    CuisineAndhra
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time75 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / gongura leaves / onion / green chillies / red chilli powder

    Ingredients

    For the mutton

    • 750 g mutton, curry cut
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 cup water

    For the gongura

    • 4 cups packed gongura leaves (about 2 bunches), washed and drained
    • 1 tbsp oil
    • 4 green chillies

    For the masala

    • 4 tbsp oil
    • 1 inch cinnamon, 4 cloves, 3 cardamoms
    • 2 large onions, finely chopped
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 2 tsp coriander powder
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • salt to taste
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the mutton with turmeric, ginger-garlic paste, salt and 1 cup water for 5-6 whistles on medium heat until tender. Keep the stock.
    2. Heat 1 tbsp oil in a pan and add the gongura leaves and green chillies. Saute on medium heat for 6-8 minutes until the leaves wilt completely, turn dark and dry out. Mash them into a coarse paste with a spoon or pulse once in a grinder.
    3. In a heavy kadai, heat 4 tbsp oil. Add the whole spices and fry for 20 seconds, then add onions and curry leaves and fry on medium heat for 8-10 minutes until golden brown.
    4. Add ginger-garlic paste and fry for 2 minutes. Lower the heat and add chilli powder and coriander powder; stir for 30 seconds.
    5. Add the cooked mutton without the stock and fry on medium-high heat for 5 minutes so the masala coats the meat.
    6. Add the gongura paste and mix well. Cook for 5 minutes, then add about 1/2 cup of the reserved stock.
    7. Simmer uncovered on low heat for 10-12 minutes, stirring often, until the gravy is thick, dark and oil separates on the sides. Stir in garam masala and coriander leaves.

    Tips

    • Gongura sourness varies by season; taste and add a little more chilli or a pinch of sugar to balance.
    • Saute the leaves until all their moisture evaporates, or the gravy turns watery.
    • Gongura discolours in aluminium; use a steel or iron pan.

    Serve with

    Hot rice with ghee, or jowar rotti and sliced onions.

  • Mirchi ka Salan

    Mirchi ka salan is a Hyderabadi curry of long, mildly hot green chillies cooked in a nutty, sour gravy. It is the traditional accompaniment to biryani, and no Hyderabadi wedding feast serves biryani without it. The gravy, made of roasted peanuts, sesame and dry coconut with tamarind, is closely related to the base used for bagara baingan.

    The salan is thick, tangy and slightly sweet, with a deep nutty flavour from the roasted seeds. The chillies are slit, fried and then simmered so they turn soft and absorb the gravy without losing their shape. It cuts through the richness of biryani, and many people also eat it with plain rice or roti.

    At a glance

    RegionTelangana
    CuisineHyderabadi
    DietVegan
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsgreen chillies / peanuts / sesame seeds / dry coconut / tamarind

    Ingredients

    For the chillies

    • 250 g long, thick, mild green chillies (bhavnagari or banana peppers)
    • 3 tbsp oil

    For the paste

    • 3 tbsp raw peanuts
    • 2 tbsp white sesame seeds
    • 2 tbsp dry coconut, grated
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 medium onion, sliced and roasted

    For the gravy

    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/4 tsp nigella seeds (kalonji)
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 1 tsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 3 tbsp thick tamarind pulp
    • 1 tsp grated jaggery
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1.5 cups water

    Method

    1. Wash and dry the chillies. Slit each lengthwise without cutting through, and scrape out some seeds if you want less heat.
    2. Heat 3 tbsp oil in a kadai and fry the chillies on medium heat for 3-4 minutes, turning, until blistered in spots. Remove and set aside.
    3. Dry roast the peanuts for 4-5 minutes until golden, then the sesame seeds until they pop, then the coconut until light brown, and finally the coriander and cumin for a minute. Grind with the roasted onion and a little water to a smooth paste.
    4. In the same kadai, add 2 tbsp oil and splutter mustard, cumin, nigella and fenugreek seeds. Add curry leaves and ginger-garlic paste and fry for 1 minute.
    5. Add the ground paste, turmeric and chilli powder and fry on low heat for 5-6 minutes, stirring often, until the paste darkens slightly and oil begins to separate.
    6. Add tamarind pulp, jaggery, salt and water. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes.
    7. Add the fried chillies and simmer on low heat for 8-10 minutes until the gravy is thick, oil floats on top, and the chillies are tender.
    8. Rest for 30 minutes before serving; the flavour improves as it sits.

    Tips

    • Choose thick, long chillies with low heat; small spicy ones make it too fierce.
    • Roast each seed separately as they brown at different rates.
    • The salan should be thick and oily on top, not watery.

    Serve with

    Hyderabadi biryani with burani raita, or with bagara rice.

  • Coorg Pandi Curry

    Pandi curry, pork curry, is the most celebrated dish of the Kodavas, the people of Kodagu (Coorg) in the Western Ghats. Wild boar hunting was part of Kodava tradition, and today farmed pork is cooked the same way for weddings, Puthari, the harvest festival, and family gatherings. Its defining ingredient is kachampuli, a dark, thick vinegar made from the fruit of the Garcinia gummi-gutta tree.

    The curry is almost black, thanks to spices roasted until very dark. It is sour, peppery and rich, with fatty pork pieces that turn tender and absorb the masala. Kodavas eat it with kadambuttu, steamed rice balls, or akki otti, a thin rice flatbread. A small glass of homemade wine or a cold drink usually comes with it at Kodava celebrations.

    At a glance

    RegionKarnataka
    CuisineKodava
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time60 minutes
    Total time85 minutes
    Serves5
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspork / kachampuli / black pepper / onion / garlic

    Ingredients

    For the pork

    • 1 kg pork with fat and skin, cut into 3 cm cubes
    • 1 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1.5 tsp salt
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder

    For the roasted masala

    • 3 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1.5 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tbsp black peppercorns
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 4 cloves
    • 2 inch cinnamon
    • 6 dry red chillies

    For the curry

    • 2 large onions, roughly chopped
    • 1.5 inch ginger
    • 15 garlic cloves
    • 4 green chillies
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 2-3 tsp kachampuli (Coorg vinegar), to taste
    • 1 cup water

    Method

    1. Rub the pork with turmeric, salt and chilli powder and keep for 20 minutes.
    2. Grind the onions, ginger, garlic and green chillies to a coarse paste.
    3. Put the pork and the onion paste in a heavy pot with 1 cup water. Bring to a boil, then cover and cook on low-medium heat for 35-40 minutes until the pork is tender and has released its fat. You can also pressure cook for 4-5 whistles.
    4. Meanwhile dry roast the coriander, cumin, pepper, mustard, fenugreek, cloves, cinnamon and chillies in a heavy pan on low-medium heat, stirring constantly, for 10-12 minutes until they turn very dark brown, almost black, but not burnt. Cool and grind to a fine powder.
    5. Add 3-4 tbsp of the roasted masala powder to the pork and mix. The curry will turn dark.
    6. Cook uncovered on medium heat for 10-15 minutes, stirring, until the gravy thickens and the pork fat separates and coats the meat.
    7. Add the kachampuli a teaspoon at a time, tasting after each, until the curry is distinctly sour. Add curry leaves, simmer 2 minutes and switch off.
    8. Rest for an hour if you can; pandi curry tastes best the next day.

    Tips

    • Pork belly or shoulder with fat is essential; lean pork turns dry.
    • Roast the spices dark but stop before they burn, which makes the curry bitter.
    • If kachampuli is unavailable, a mix of malt vinegar and a little tamarind is a compromise, but the flavour differs.

    Serve with

    Kadambuttu (steamed rice balls), akki otti or plain rice.

  • Akki Rotti

    Akki rotti, akki meaning rice in Kannada, is a breakfast flatbread from Karnataka made from rice flour mixed with vegetables and herbs. It is patted out by hand directly on a cold, greased tawa or on a banana leaf rather than rolled, which gives it its uneven, rustic look. In Malnad homes it is a staple, often made with dill (sabsige soppu) or grated cucumber.

    A good akki rotti is crisp and golden at the edges and soft inside, with green flecks of dill, chilli and coriander. It is savoury, mildly spicy and fragrant. Being made from rice flour it is naturally gluten free. It is eaten hot with chutney, a spoon of butter or a pickle.

    At a glance

    RegionKarnataka
    CuisineKannada
    DietVegan
    CourseBreakfast
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time45 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice flour / onion / dill leaves / coconut / green chillies

    Ingredients

    • 2 cups rice flour
    • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
    • 1/2 cup dill leaves, finely chopped
    • 1/4 cup grated coconut
    • 1 small carrot, grated (optional)
    • 2-3 green chillies, finely chopped
    • 1 inch ginger, grated
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 3 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
    • 1 tsp salt
    • about 1 cup warm water
    • oil for cooking

    Method

    1. Mix the rice flour, onion, dill, coconut, carrot, chillies, ginger, cumin, coriander and salt in a large bowl.
    2. Add warm water a little at a time and knead to a soft, slightly sticky dough that holds together. Rest for 10 minutes.
    3. Grease a cold, thick tawa with 1 tsp oil. Take a lemon-sized ball of dough and place it on the tawa.
    4. Wet your fingers and pat the dough out into a thin, even circle about 15 cm across, wetting your fingers often so it does not stick. Make 3-4 small holes in it with a finger.
    5. Pour a few drops of oil in each hole and around the edges. Place the tawa on medium heat, cover and cook for 3-4 minutes until the base is golden and crisp.
    6. Flip and cook for 1-2 minutes more until spotted golden. Remove.
    7. Cool the tawa under running water before shaping the next rotti, or use two tawas in rotation. Alternatively pat the rottis on a greased banana leaf or butter paper and transfer them to a hot tawa.

    Tips

    • The tawa must be cool when patting out the dough; a hot tawa makes it impossible to spread.
    • Warm water helps the rice flour bind.
    • Make the dough just before cooking; onions release water and make it soggy if it sits too long.

    Serve with

    Coconut chutney, ennegai, or white butter with chutney pudi.

  • Kori Rotti

    Kori rotti is the signature dish of the Bunt and Tuluva communities of coastal Karnataka. Kori means chicken in Tulu, and rotti here is not a flatbread but a brittle, paper-thin wafer made from boiled rice, cooked on a griddle and dried in the sun. The rottis are bought ready-made in Mangalore and keep for months.

    At the table the dry rottis are broken into a plate and the hot chicken curry, called kori gassi, is poured over them. The rotti softens slightly while still keeping some crunch. The gravy is rich with coconut, red with Byadgi chillies and tangy with tamarind. It is a feast dish, made for weddings, festivals and Sunday lunches.

    At a glance

    RegionKarnataka
    CuisineMangalorean
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time40 minutes
    Total time70 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / coconut / byadgi chillies / rice rotti / tamarind

    Ingredients

    For the masala

    • 12 Byadgi chillies
    • 2 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/2 tsp black peppercorns
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 1 tsp oil
    • 1.5 cups grated coconut
    • 1 small onion, sliced
    • 6 garlic cloves
    • small marble of tamarind
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder

    For the curry

    • 750 g chicken, curry cut
    • 3 tbsp coconut oil or ghee
    • 1 large onion, finely sliced
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 1 cup thin coconut milk or water
    • 1/2 cup thick coconut milk
    • 1.5 tsp salt, or to taste

    To serve

    • 8-10 dry rice rottis (Mangalore rotti)

    Method

    1. Roast the chillies, coriander, cumin, pepper and fenugreek in 1 tsp oil on low heat for 3-4 minutes until fragrant. Remove, then lightly roast the sliced onion and garlic in the same pan for 2 minutes.
    2. Grind the roasted spices, onion, garlic, coconut, tamarind and turmeric with about 1 cup water to a smooth, thick paste.
    3. Heat coconut oil in a heavy pan. Fry the sliced onion on medium heat for 6-7 minutes until golden, then add the curry leaves.
    4. Add the chicken and salt and saute on medium-high heat for 5 minutes until the pieces are sealed.
    5. Add the ground masala and fry with the chicken for 4-5 minutes on medium heat, stirring, until it no longer smells raw.
    6. Pour in the thin coconut milk or water, bring to a boil, then cover and simmer for 20 minutes on low heat until the chicken is tender and oil rises to the top.
    7. Stir in the thick coconut milk and heat for 2 minutes without boiling. The gravy should be medium-thick and pourable.
    8. To serve, break 2-3 rottis into each plate and pour the hot gravy with chicken over them just before eating.

    Tips

    • Pour the gravy only at the table, or the rotti turns soggy.
    • Kori gassi should have plenty of gravy because the rotti absorbs a lot.
    • If rotti is unavailable, serve the gassi with neer dosa or steamed rice.

    Serve with

    The rice rottis themselves, with sliced onion and a wedge of lime.

  • Mangalorean Chicken Ghee Roast

    Chicken ghee roast was popularised in the 1950s by Shetty Lunch Home in Kundapur and later spread across Mangalore and the rest of India. It is a dish of the Bunt community, and its intensity comes from a paste of roasted Byadgi chillies, coriander, cumin, pepper, fenugreek and garlic, cooked in plenty of ghee with tamarind and jaggery.

    The result is a deep red, semi-dry dish with a glossy coating of masala. It is tangy, smoky, spicy and buttery all at once, with the ghee carrying the aroma. Despite the colour, Byadgi chillies keep the heat manageable. It is served as a starter or with neer dosa, appam or kori rotti.

    At a glance

    RegionKarnataka
    CuisineMangalorean
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time65 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientschicken / ghee / byadgi chillies / tamarind / garlic

    Ingredients

    For the marinade

    • 750 g chicken, small bone-in pieces
    • 1/2 cup thick curd
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 tsp salt

    For the roast masala

    • 15 Byadgi chillies, seeds removed
    • 2 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tsp black peppercorns
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 4 cloves
    • 12 garlic cloves
    • 2 tsp tamarind paste

    For the roast

    • 6 tbsp ghee, divided
    • 1 tsp grated jaggery
    • salt to taste
    • 1 sprig curry leaves

    Method

    1. Marinate the chicken in curd, turmeric, lemon juice and salt for at least 30 minutes.
    2. Dry roast the chillies on low heat for 1-2 minutes until crisp but not dark. Remove, then roast coriander, cumin, pepper, fenugreek and cloves for 2-3 minutes until fragrant.
    3. Soak the roasted chillies in 1/4 cup warm water for 10 minutes, then grind everything with the garlic and tamarind to a very smooth paste, using the soaking water.
    4. Heat 2 tbsp ghee in a heavy pan. Add the chicken and cook on medium-high heat for 8-10 minutes, until browned and almost cooked through. Remove the chicken, leaving the juices in the pan.
    5. Add 3 tbsp ghee to the pan, lower the heat to medium and add the ground paste. Fry, stirring constantly, for 8-10 minutes until it darkens slightly, smells roasted and the ghee separates. Add a splash of water if it sticks.
    6. Add the chicken with its juices, the jaggery and salt. Toss on medium heat for 8-10 minutes until the masala thickens and coats the chicken.
    7. Add the remaining tablespoon of ghee and the curry leaves and roast for 2 more minutes until glossy. Serve hot.

    Tips

    • Byadgi chillies are essential for the colour; Kashmiri chillies are the closest substitute.
    • Roasting the paste in ghee until it separates is what gives the dish its depth; do not cut this short.
    • Prawns or paneer can be made the same way; reduce the cooking time accordingly.

    Serve with

    Neer dosa, appam, kori rotti or ghee rice, or on its own as a starter.

  • Karimeen Pollichathu

    Karimeen, the pearl spot fish, is the state fish of Kerala and lives in the brackish backwaters of Kuttanad and Kumarakom. Pollichathu means roasted in a parcel, and karimeen pollichathu is the dish houseboat cooks and toddy shops are best known for. The fish is first fried, then wrapped in a banana leaf with a thick masala and roasted on a pan.

    Inside the parcel the fish steams in the masala and absorbs the aroma of the leaf, while the outside stays slightly crisp. The masala is tangy and spicy, built on shallots, tomato, ginger, garlic and kudampuli or lemon, often enriched with coconut milk. Opened at the table, the charred leaf releases a smoky, fragrant steam.

    At a glance

    RegionKerala
    CuisineKerala
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time65 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientspearl spot fish / shallots / tomato / banana leaf / coconut oil

    Ingredients

    For the marinade

    • 3 pearl spot fish (karimeen), about 200 g each, cleaned and scored
    • 1.5 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp crushed black pepper
    • 1 tsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 3/4 tsp salt

    For the masala

    • 3 tbsp coconut oil, plus extra for frying
    • 15 shallots, sliced
    • 1 inch ginger, chopped
    • 6 garlic cloves, chopped
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 2 sprigs curry leaves
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 2 tomatoes, chopped
    • 1 piece kudampuli, soaked in 2 tbsp water, or 1 tsp lemon juice
    • 1/2 cup thick coconut milk
    • salt to taste

    For wrapping

    • 3 large pieces of banana leaf, wilted over a flame
    • kitchen string or banana fibre

    Method

    1. Make deep diagonal cuts on both sides of each fish. Mix the marinade ingredients into a thick paste, rub it into the cuts and all over the fish, and marinate for 30 minutes.
    2. Shallow fry the fish in coconut oil on medium heat for 2-3 minutes per side until lightly crisp but not fully cooked. Set aside.
    3. In the same pan, add 3 tbsp coconut oil. Fry the shallots on medium heat for 6-7 minutes until golden. Add ginger, garlic, green chillies and a sprig of curry leaves and fry 2 minutes.
    4. Lower the heat, add chilli, coriander and turmeric powders and stir for 30 seconds. Add tomatoes, kudampuli with its water and salt, and cook for 6-8 minutes until thick and jammy.
    5. Stir in the coconut milk and cook for 2 more minutes until the masala is thick enough to coat a spoon.
    6. Lay out the banana leaves, brush with coconut oil, and spread a spoon of masala in the centre of each. Place a fish on top, cover with more masala and a few curry leaves, fold the leaf into a parcel and tie it.
    7. Heat a flat pan on medium-low, add a drizzle of oil and place the parcels on it. Cover and cook for 7-8 minutes per side until the leaves are charred and brown.
    8. Serve the parcels whole and open them at the table.

    Tips

    • Wilting the banana leaf over a flame makes it pliable so it does not crack while folding.
    • If karimeen is unavailable, pomfret or tilapia works well.
    • Keep the heat low while roasting the parcels so the fish heats through before the leaf burns.

    Serve with

    Kerala matta rice or appam, with a glass of buttermilk.

  • Bisi Bele Bath

    Bisi bele bath means hot lentil rice in Kannada, and it is said to have been refined in the kitchens of the Mysore palace. It is a one-pot meal of rice and toor dal cooked soft, mixed with vegetables, tamarind and a special spice powder, and served piping hot with a generous spoon of ghee. In Bengaluru it is a standard dish at darshinis, weddings and temple feasts.

    The texture is porridge-like and loose, never dry, and it thickens as it cools. The masala, with roasted chana and urad dal, coriander, red chillies, cinnamon, cloves, marathi mogu and dry coconut, gives it a complex, warm, tangy flavour. The ideal plate comes with crunchy khara boondi or potato chips on the side.

    At a glance

    RegionKarnataka
    CuisineKannada
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time40 minutes
    Total time65 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / toor dal / tamarind / mixed vegetables / ghee

    Ingredients

    For the bisi bele bath powder

    • 2 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tbsp chana dal
    • 1 tbsp urad dal
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 8 Byadgi chillies
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 4 cloves
    • 1 marathi mogu
    • 2 tbsp dry coconut (kopra), grated
    • 1 tsp poppy seeds

    For the bath

    • 3/4 cup sona masoori rice
    • 1/2 cup toor dal
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 5 cups water
    • 2 cups mixed vegetables: carrot, beans, peas, potato, chow chow, drumstick
    • small lemon-sized tamarind, soaked in 1 cup water
    • 1 tbsp grated jaggery
    • 1.5 tsp salt

    For the tempering

    • 3 tbsp ghee
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 15 cashews
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 1/4 tsp asafoetida
    • 10 shallots or small onions, peeled (optional)

    Method

    1. Dry roast the coriander, dals, cumin, fenugreek, chillies, cinnamon, cloves and marathi mogu on low heat for 5-6 minutes until fragrant and the dals turn golden. Add coconut and poppy seeds in the last minute. Cool and grind to a fine powder.
    2. Wash the rice and dal together and pressure cook with turmeric and 4 cups water for 4-5 whistles until very soft. Mash lightly.
    3. Cook the vegetables in a large pot with 1 cup water and a little salt for 8-10 minutes until tender.
    4. Add the tamarind extract, jaggery and salt to the vegetables and boil for 5 minutes until the raw tamarind smell is gone.
    5. Mix 4 tbsp of the spice powder with a little water to a paste and stir it in. Simmer for 3 minutes.
    6. Add the mashed rice and dal and mix well. Add hot water to get a loose, porridge-like consistency; it will thicken as it stands. Simmer on low heat for 5 minutes, stirring to prevent sticking.
    7. For the tempering, heat ghee, splutter mustard seeds, fry cashews until golden, then add curry leaves, asafoetida and shallots and fry until the shallots soften. Pour over the bath and mix.
    8. Serve hot with an extra spoon of ghee on top.

    Tips

    • Always keep bisi bele bath looser than you think it should be; it sets firm within minutes.
    • The leftover powder keeps for a month in an airtight jar.
    • Byadgi chillies give colour without too much heat; use fewer Guntur chillies if substituting.

    Serve with

    Khara boondi, potato chips or papad, with raita or curd on the side.

  • Ragi Mudde

    Ragi mudde, or ragi ball, has been the staple food of rural south Karnataka for centuries, especially in Mandya, Mysore, Hassan and Tumkur. Farmers eat it because it is filling and gives steady energy through a day of field work. Ragi grows well in dry conditions, and a meal of mudde with saaru is still everyday food in many Kannada homes.

    The balls are smooth, dense and greyish-brown with a mild, earthy taste. They are not chewed: a small piece is pinched off, rolled in the gravy and swallowed. That is why mudde is always eaten with a thin, spicy gravy such as bassaru, soppina saaru or a mutton or chicken saaru.

    At a glance

    RegionKarnataka
    CuisineKannada
    DietVegan
    CourseMain course
    Prep time5 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time25 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsragi flour / water / salt

    Ingredients

    • 1 cup ragi flour (finger millet flour)
    • 2 cups water
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1 tsp ghee or oil (optional)

    Method

    1. Bring 2 cups water, salt and ghee to a rolling boil in a heavy-bottomed pot.
    2. Take out about 1/2 cup of the boiling water and keep it aside in a bowl.
    3. Lower the heat to medium-low and add the ragi flour all at once in a mound in the centre. Do not stir. Let it sit on the boiling water for 2-3 minutes so the flour steams.
    4. Using the handle of a wooden spoon or a traditional mudde kolu, stir vigorously to combine the flour and water, breaking up any lumps. It will be a thick, stiff mass.
    5. If it is too stiff, add a little of the reserved hot water. Keep stirring and pressing on low heat for 3-5 minutes until smooth and the flour is fully cooked. It should not stick to a wet finger.
    6. Cover and cook on the lowest heat for 2 minutes, then switch off.
    7. Wet your palms with water, take a portion of the hot mixture and roll it into a smooth ball on a wet plate. Repeat. Serve hot.

    Tips

    • Adding the flour without stirring at first is the trick to lump-free mudde.
    • A cooked mudde does not stick to wet fingers; if it does, cook a little longer.
    • Use a wooden stick or the back of a wooden spoon; a metal ladle will not mix it well.

    Serve with

    Bassaru, soppina saaru, avarekalu saaru or a spicy country chicken curry.