RAG Demo

Tag: Medium to make

  • Sandesh

    Sandesh is the most refined of the Bengali chhena sweets and comes in dozens of styles, from the soft 'naram pak' to the firmer 'kora pak', and from plain cardamom to nolen gur, mango or chocolate versions. Kolkata institutions such as Bhim Chandra Nag and Balaram Mullick built their names on it, and carved wooden moulds shaped like shells, fish and flowers are part of its charm.

    Unlike rasgulla, sandesh is not cooked in syrup. Fresh chhena is kneaded with sugar and cooked very briefly in a pan until it forms a smooth dough that leaves the sides. Too little cooking and it will not set, too much and it turns grainy. The homemade naram pak version below is soft, melts in the mouth and tastes clearly of fresh milk.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time10 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmilk / sugar / cardamom

    Ingredients

    • 1 litre full-cream cow milk
    • 2 tbsp lemon juice mixed with 2 tbsp water
    • 1/4 cup powdered sugar (about 50 g)
    • 1/4 tsp green cardamom powder
    • A few strands of saffron soaked in 1 tsp warm milk (optional)
    • 8-10 pistachios, slivered

    Method

    1. Boil the milk, turn off the heat, and after a minute add the diluted lemon juice slowly while stirring until the milk curdles completely into chhena and greenish whey.
    2. Strain through muslin, rinse with cold water, and squeeze gently. Hang for 20-30 minutes until most of the water has drained but the chhena is still soft.
    3. Knead the chhena on a plate with the heel of your palm for 5 minutes until smooth. Add the powdered sugar and knead for another 2 minutes.
    4. Transfer to a non-stick pan on the lowest heat. Cook, stirring constantly with a spatula, for 5-7 minutes. The mixture will loosen first as the sugar melts, then dry out.
    5. Stop as soon as it starts to come together as a soft mass and leaves the sides of the pan. Do not let it brown.
    6. Transfer to a plate, add cardamom powder and saffron, and knead lightly once it is cool enough to handle, about 2 minutes, until smooth.
    7. Divide into 12 portions and shape into discs, or press into sandesh moulds. Top with slivered pistachio and chill for 30 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Overcooking is the most common mistake – take the pan off the heat while the mixture still looks a little moist; it firms up as it cools.
    • For nolen gurer sandesh, replace the sugar with an equal weight of grated nolen gur and cook a minute longer.
    • Keep sandesh refrigerated and eat within two days; it is best on the day it is made.

    Serve with

    On its own with tea, or as part of a mishti platter after lunch.

  • Mishti Doi

    Mishti doi, literally sweet curd, is set in unglazed clay pots that absorb excess moisture and give the curd its dense, almost fudgy texture. Bengal's sweet-shop culture made it a fixture at weddings, annaprashan ceremonies and Sunday lunches, and the versions from Nabadwip in Nadia district and from Bogra in present-day Bangladesh are especially famous.

    The milk is reduced until thick, and sugar or nolen gur (date palm jaggery) is caramelised before it goes in, which gives the curd its pale brown colour and deep, toffee-like sweetness. It should be thick enough to cut with a spoon, sweet with only a gentle tang at the end. In winter many families make it with nolen gur instead of sugar.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time45 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmilk / sugar / curd

    Ingredients

    • 1 litre full-fat milk
    • 1/2 cup sugar (or 100 g nolen gur in winter)
    • 2 tbsp water
    • 3 tbsp thick plain curd, at room temperature, as starter
    • Earthen pots or a clay handi

    Method

    1. Boil the milk in a heavy-bottomed pan and simmer on medium-low heat for 20-25 minutes, stirring and scraping the sides, until it reduces to about two-thirds.
    2. Meanwhile, put 1/4 cup of the sugar with 2 tbsp water in a small pan on medium heat. Do not stir; swirl the pan until the sugar melts and turns a deep amber, about 4-5 minutes.
    3. Lower the heat and carefully pour a ladle of the hot milk into the caramel – it will splutter. Stir until the caramel dissolves, then pour this back into the reduced milk with the remaining sugar. Stir until fully dissolved.
    4. Let the milk cool until it feels comfortably warm when you dip a finger in, around 40-45 C.
    5. Whisk the starter curd smooth in a bowl, add a ladle of the warm milk, mix, then stir it into the rest of the milk.
    6. Pour into earthen pots, cover with a plate, and leave in a warm, undisturbed place (an off oven with the light on works) for 7-8 hours until set firm.
    7. Once set, refrigerate for at least 3 hours. It will firm up further and taste less tangy when chilled.

    Tips

    • Soak new clay pots in water for an hour and dry them before use, or they will smell of raw clay.
    • If using nolen gur, add it only after the milk has cooled slightly, or the jaggery can curdle the milk.
    • A deeper caramel gives more colour and a slightly bitter edge; stop at amber if you prefer it mellow.

    Serve with

    Chilled, straight from the clay pot, after a festive meal.

  • Shukto

    Shukto is the opening course of a traditional Bengali lunch, served with the first mouthfuls of rice to stimulate the appetite and, by old belief, cleanse the palate. It shows up at weddings, at shraddha meals and on summer afternoons, when its bitterness is thought to cool the body. Every family has its own mix of vegetables and its own balance of bitter and sweet.

    The taste is subtle rather than harsh. Bitter gourd sets the tone, while raw banana, sweet potato, drumsticks, brinjal and broad beans add softness and sweetness. The sauce is thickened with a little mustard and poppy seed paste and finished with milk and ghee, and the tempering of radhuni or panch phoron gives it a distinct aroma. Bori, sun-dried lentil dumplings, add crunch.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbitter gourd / raw banana / sweet potato / drumstick / milk

    Ingredients

    Vegetables

    • 1 small bitter gourd, thinly sliced into rounds
    • 1 raw banana, peeled and cut into batons
    • 1 small sweet potato, cut into batons
    • 1 drumstick, cut into 7 cm pieces
    • 1 small brinjal, cut into batons
    • 8-10 broad beans (sheem), stringed
    • 1/2 cup bori (dried lentil dumplings)

    For the paste and sauce

    • 1 tbsp yellow mustard seeds
    • 1 tbsp poppy seeds
    • 1 inch ginger
    • 3 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1 tbsp ghee
    • 1 tsp panch phoron or 1/2 tsp radhuni
    • 2 bay leaves
    • 1/2 cup milk
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1 cup water
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Soak the mustard and poppy seeds in warm water for 20 minutes, then grind with the ginger and a pinch of salt into a smooth paste.
    2. Heat the mustard oil in a kadhai until smoking, then lower to medium. Fry the bori for 1-2 minutes until golden and remove. In the same oil fry the bitter gourd slices for 3-4 minutes until lightly browned; remove and keep aside.
    3. Add the ghee to the pan, then the panch phoron and bay leaves. Let them crackle for 15 seconds.
    4. Add the raw banana, sweet potato, drumstick, brinjal and beans. Stir-fry on medium heat for 5 minutes until the edges lightly colour.
    5. Add salt and 1 cup water. Cover and cook on low-medium heat for 10-12 minutes until the vegetables are tender but still hold their shape.
    6. Stir in the mustard-poppy paste, sugar and the fried bitter gourd and bori. Simmer for 3 minutes on low heat.
    7. Pour in the milk and stir gently. Simmer for another 2-3 minutes until the sauce is creamy and lightly thickened, then finish with a spoon of ghee.

    Tips

    • Fry the bitter gourd separately and add it at the end so its bitterness stays in check and does not overwhelm the stew.
    • Stir gently with a flat spatula; the vegetables should stay in distinct pieces, not turn mushy.
    • Radhuni (wild celery seed) gives the most authentic aroma; if unavailable, a pinch of ajwain can stand in.

    Serve with

    The first course of rice at a Bengali lunch, followed by dal and fish.

  • Kosha Mangsho

    Kosha mangsho means mutton that has been 'koshano' – stirred and seared slowly in its own masala until the oil separates and the meat turns deep brown. Kolkata's Golbari, a small eatery in Shyambazar, made it famous, and in many Bengali homes it is still the centrepiece of a Sunday lunch or a festive meal after Durga Puja.

    The gravy is thick, almost dry, and dark from long bhuna rather than from food colour. Mustard oil, whole garam masala, a touch of sugar to caramelise the onions, and plenty of ginger and garlic give it a rich, slightly sweet and pungent character. Potatoes are often added for those who like them, and the dish tastes even better the next day.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time105 minutes
    Total time125 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsmutton / onion / yogurt / mustard oil

    Ingredients

    For the marinade

    • 1 kg mutton (curry cut, with bone)
    • 1/2 cup thick curd
    • 1 tbsp ginger paste
    • 1 tbsp garlic paste
    • 1 tsp turmeric powder
    • 2 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 2 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1 tsp salt

    For cooking

    • 5 tbsp mustard oil
    • 2 bay leaves
    • 4 green cardamoms
    • 4 cloves
    • 2 inch cinnamon stick
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 4 large onions, finely sliced
    • 2 medium potatoes, halved (optional)
    • 1 tsp cumin powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 4 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tsp garam masala powder
    • 1 tbsp ghee
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Mix the mutton with all the marinade ingredients and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or overnight.
    2. If using potatoes, rub them with salt and turmeric and fry in 1 tbsp mustard oil until golden on all sides. Set aside.
    3. Heat the remaining mustard oil in a heavy pot until smoking, then lower to medium. Add bay leaves, cardamom, cloves and cinnamon, then the sugar. Let the sugar melt and caramelise for 20-30 seconds.
    4. Add the sliced onions and fry on medium heat for 15-18 minutes, stirring often, until they are deep golden brown.
    5. Add the marinated mutton with all the marinade. Raise the heat to high for 5 minutes, stirring constantly, then lower to medium-low.
    6. Add cumin powder, coriander powder and green chillies. Cover and cook, opening every 5-7 minutes to stir and scrape the bottom, for about 45 minutes. The meat releases its own water; add 2-3 tbsp hot water only if it sticks.
    7. Once the masala turns dark brown and the oil floats at the edges, add the fried potatoes and 1/2 cup hot water. Cover and cook on low for another 30-40 minutes until the mutton is tender and the potatoes are cooked through.
    8. Uncover and keep stirring on medium heat for 5 minutes until the gravy is thick and clinging. Finish with garam masala and ghee, rest for 10 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Use meat from the shoulder or a mix with some fat and bone – lean leg pieces turn dry in the long bhuna.
    • To save time, pressure cook after step 6 for 3-4 whistles, then open and dry off the gravy on high heat.
    • The colour should come from patient browning of onions and meat; resist adding more chilli powder to darken it.

    Serve with

    Luchi, basanti pulao or plain steamed rice, with sliced onion and green chilli.

  • Shorshe Ilish

    Shorshe ilish is the dish that marks the monsoon in Bengal, when hilsa swim up the Padma and the Ganga to spawn and the fish markets of Kolkata fill with silver. Bengalis argue endlessly over Padma versus Ganga hilsa, but agree that the fish needs very little help: freshly ground mustard, green chillies, turmeric and a generous slick of raw mustard oil.

    The flavour is bold and nose-tingling. Black and yellow mustard seeds are ground with a pinch of salt and a green chilli so the paste does not turn bitter, then the oily, delicate fish cooks gently in it. It is eaten with plain steamed rice, picking carefully around the fine bones, and the leftover gravy mixed into rice is often considered the best part.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time40 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientshilsa / mustard seeds / mustard oil / green chilli

    Ingredients

    For the fish

    • 6 hilsa steaks (about 600 g), cleaned
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp salt

    For the mustard gravy

    • 2 tbsp black mustard seeds
    • 1 tbsp yellow mustard seeds
    • 4-5 green chillies (2 for the paste, rest slit)
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 4 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1/2 tsp kalonji (nigella seeds)
    • 3/4 cup water
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Rub the hilsa steaks with turmeric and salt and set aside for 10 minutes. Do not wash the fish again after marinating.
    2. Soak both kinds of mustard seeds in warm water for 15 minutes. Drain and grind with 2 green chillies, a pinch of salt and 2-3 tbsp water to a smooth, thick paste. Grind in short bursts so the paste does not heat up and turn bitter.
    3. Loosen the paste with 1/2 cup water and the remaining turmeric, then pass it through a fine sieve if you want a very smooth gravy.
    4. Heat 3 tbsp mustard oil in a wide kadhai until it just begins to smoke, then reduce the heat to medium. Add the kalonji and let it crackle for a few seconds.
    5. Pour in the mustard mixture and the remaining 1/4 cup water. Add salt and bring to a gentle simmer on low-medium heat for 2 minutes; do not boil hard or the mustard turns bitter.
    6. Slide in the hilsa steaks in a single layer and spoon the gravy over them. Scatter the slit green chillies on top.
    7. Cover and cook on low heat for 8-10 minutes, without stirring. Tilt and swirl the pan once halfway so the fish does not stick. The fish is done when the flesh near the bone turns opaque.
    8. Turn off the heat, drizzle the remaining 1 tbsp raw mustard oil over the top and keep covered for 5 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Do not fry the hilsa before adding it to the gravy if the fish is very fresh – steaming it raw keeps the flesh soft and the flavour clean.
    • If you cannot grind fresh mustard, use a good kasundi mixed with a little ground mustard, though the taste will be sharper and more vinegary.
    • For bhapa ilish, mix the same paste with the fish in a steel tiffin box, seal and steam over boiling water for 15 minutes.

    Serve with

    Hot steamed gobindobhog or sona masoori rice, with a wedge of lime on the side.

  • Chingri Malai Curry

    Chingri malai curry is the Bengali dish of choice for a son-in-law on jamai sasthi or for any guest worth impressing. The 'malai' refers to coconut cream rather than dairy, and some food historians link the name to Malay traders who brought coconut-based cooking to the eastern coast. Golda chingri, the big freshwater scampi with blue-orange heads, are the traditional prawn.

    The curry is mild, rich and faintly sweet. The prawn heads are left on because the fat inside them colours and flavours the gravy, and whole garam masala in ghee gives the warm aroma Bengalis expect. Unlike southern coconut curries it uses no curry leaves or tamarind; the balance is between sweetness, gentle heat from green chillies and the richness of coconut milk.

    At a glance

    RegionWest Bengal
    CuisineBengali
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsprawns / coconut milk / onion / ghee

    Ingredients

    For the prawns

    • 8 large golda prawns or 500 g tiger prawns, shelled, deveined, heads and tails on
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp mustard oil

    For the gravy

    • 1 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1 tbsp ghee
    • 2 bay leaves
    • 3 green cardamoms, lightly crushed
    • 3 cloves
    • 1 inch cinnamon stick
    • 1 large onion, ground to a paste
    • 1 tsp ginger paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 1 1/2 cups thick coconut milk
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1/4 tsp garam masala powder
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Rub the cleaned prawns with turmeric and salt and keep aside for 10 minutes.
    2. Heat 2 tbsp mustard oil in a kadhai until smoking, then lower to medium. Fry the prawns for 1 minute per side until they just turn pink and curl. Remove; they will finish cooking in the gravy.
    3. In the same pan add the remaining mustard oil and ghee. Add bay leaves, cardamom, cloves and cinnamon and let them sizzle for 20 seconds.
    4. Add the onion paste and cook on medium heat for 6-8 minutes, stirring, until the raw smell is gone and it turns light golden.
    5. Add ginger paste, turmeric and chilli powder with a splash of water. Cook for 2 minutes until the oil starts separating.
    6. Lower the heat and pour in the coconut milk, stirring continuously so it does not split. Add salt, sugar and the slit green chillies and simmer gently for 4-5 minutes.
    7. Return the prawns to the pan. Simmer on low heat for 4-5 minutes, spooning gravy over them, until the prawns are cooked through and the gravy coats the back of a spoon.
    8. Sprinkle garam masala and add a final teaspoon of ghee. Cover and rest for 5 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Keep the heads on and press them gently while cooking – the orange fat inside is what gives the gravy its colour.
    • Never boil hard once the coconut milk is in, or it will curdle and turn grainy.
    • Overcooked prawns turn rubbery; take them off the heat as soon as they are opaque in the centre.

    Serve with

    Plain steamed rice or ghee bhaat, with a slice of lime.

  • Ulava Charu

    Ulava charu is an old, rustic dish from the Krishna and Guntur districts of Andhra Pradesh, made from horse gram, a hardy lentil grown in dry areas. Traditionally the horse gram was boiled for hours and the cooking liquid strained off, then simmered down with tamarind and spices. It is believed to warm the body and was popular in winter, and it has since become a speciality of upscale Andhra restaurants.

    The charu is dark brown, thick and glossy, with an earthy, nutty, slightly smoky flavour balanced by the sourness of tamarind. It is mixed with hot rice and finished with a spoon of fresh cream or butter, which mellows the tang. Some people eat it like a soup. It is also sold in jars at some Andhra sweet and pickle shops.

    At a glance

    RegionAndhra Pradesh
    CuisineAndhra
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSoup
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time90 minutes
    Total time105 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientshorse gram / tamarind / onion / garlic / cream

    Ingredients

    For the horse gram stock

    • 1 cup horse gram (ulavalu), soaked overnight
    • 6 cups water
    • 1/2 tsp salt

    For the charu

    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 2 dry red chillies
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
    • 6 garlic cloves, crushed
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander powder
    • 1/2 tsp cumin powder
    • lemon-sized tamarind, soaked in 1 cup water
    • 1 tsp grated jaggery
    • salt to taste

    To serve

    • fresh cream or white butter
    • finely chopped onion

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the soaked horse gram with salt and 6 cups water for 10-12 whistles on medium heat, or simmer in an open pot for 2-3 hours, until very soft.
    2. Strain the cooking liquid into a bowl, pressing the beans lightly. Keep the cooked horse gram for a sundal or salad. Grind 2-3 tbsp of the cooked beans with a little stock and add to the liquid for body.
    3. Squeeze and strain the tamarind to get thick extract.
    4. Heat oil in a heavy pan. Splutter mustard seeds, then add cumin, fenugreek and red chillies. Add curry leaves, onion, garlic and green chillies and fry on medium heat for 5 minutes until golden.
    5. Add turmeric, chilli powder, coriander and cumin powder and fry for 30 seconds.
    6. Pour in the horse gram stock and tamarind extract, add jaggery and salt, and bring to a boil.
    7. Simmer uncovered on low heat for 30-40 minutes, stirring occasionally, until it reduces to a thick, dark, glossy consistency that coats the back of a spoon.
    8. Serve hot over rice, topped with a spoon of cream or butter and chopped onion.

    Tips

    • Long, slow reduction is what develops the deep colour and flavour; do not rush it.
    • The charu keeps well for 3-4 days in the fridge and thickens further.
    • Horse gram must be well soaked and fully cooked; it is a very hard lentil.

    Serve with

    Hot rice with fresh cream and onions, or as a soup with a dollop of butter.

  • Sarva Pindi

    Sarva pindi, also called ginne appa or tapala chekka, is a traditional Telangana snack named after the sarva, the heavy, deep pan it is cooked in. The dough of rice flour, soaked chana dal, peanuts and sesame is pressed by hand directly into the pan, and holes are poked through it so the oil can seep in and crisp it up.

    The result is a large, round pancake that is crisp and golden on the outside and slightly chewy inside, with crunchy peanuts, nutty sesame and the aroma of curry leaves and coriander. It is spicy and very satisfying, a favourite evening snack in Telangana villages that is now served in Hyderabad's Telangana-themed restaurants.

    At a glance

    RegionTelangana
    CuisineTelangana
    DietVegan
    CourseSnack
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice flour / chana dal / peanuts / sesame seeds / curry leaves

    Ingredients

    • 2 cups rice flour
    • 2 tbsp chana dal, soaked 1 hour
    • 3 tbsp raw peanuts, lightly crushed
    • 1 tbsp white sesame seeds
    • 1 small onion, finely chopped
    • 3 green chillies, finely chopped, or 1 tsp ginger-chilli paste
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 2 sprigs curry leaves, chopped
    • 3 tbsp chopped coriander leaves
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp hot oil
    • about 1 cup warm water
    • 4-5 tbsp oil for cooking

    Method

    1. In a large bowl combine the rice flour, drained chana dal, peanuts, sesame, onion, green chillies, chilli powder, cumin, curry leaves, coriander and salt.
    2. Pour in 1 tbsp hot oil and rub it in, then add warm water gradually to make a soft, non-sticky dough. Rest for 10 minutes.
    3. Spread 1 tbsp oil in a thick-bottomed kadai or sarva while it is still cold.
    4. Take an orange-sized portion of dough and place it in the centre. With wet fingers, press it out thinly and evenly over the base and slightly up the sides, about 3-4 mm thick.
    5. Make 5-6 holes in the dough with your finger and pour a few drops of oil into each and around the edge.
    6. Place the kadai on medium heat, cover and cook for 5-6 minutes until the bottom is golden and crisp.
    7. Flip it over with a spatula, drizzle a little more oil and cook uncovered for 3-4 minutes until both sides are golden brown and crisp.
    8. Remove, cool the kadai before making the next one, and cut into wedges to serve.

    Tips

    • Always press the dough into a cold kadai; a hot pan makes it impossible to spread.
    • Thinner pressing gives a crisper sarva pindi.
    • A handful of chopped soaked chana leaves or spinach is a popular seasonal addition.

    Serve with

    Hot tea, or a dollop of curd or peanut chutney.

  • Chepala Pulusu

    Chepala pulusu, fish in tamarind gravy, is a signature dish of coastal Andhra, from Nellore to the Godavari delta, where fish from the sea, rivers and backwaters is eaten daily. Pulusu means a sour, tamarind-based gravy. Each district has its own style: Nellore chepala pulusu is famous for its raw mango and intense heat, while Godavari versions are slightly sweeter.

    The gravy is thin to medium-thick, red, and sharply sour and spicy, balanced by a pinch of jaggery and the aroma of roasted fenugreek and coriander. Families traditionally cook it in a clay pot and let it rest for several hours, often overnight, so the fish absorbs the tamarind. It is eaten with hot rice.

    At a glance

    RegionAndhra Pradesh
    CuisineAndhra
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsfish / tamarind / onion / red chilli powder / fenugreek

    Ingredients

    For the fish

    • 750 g firm fish steaks (rohu, murrel, seer or pomfret)
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp salt

    For the spice powder

    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 1/4 tsp mustard seeds

    For the pulusu

    • lemon-sized ball of tamarind soaked in 2 cups warm water
    • 4 tbsp groundnut oil
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 2 medium onions, finely sliced
    • 4 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1 tomato, chopped
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 2-3 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1.5 tsp salt
    • 1 tsp grated jaggery
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Clean the fish and rub with turmeric, chilli powder and salt. Marinate for 15 minutes.
    2. Dry roast the coriander, cumin, fenugreek and mustard on low heat for 2 minutes until fragrant. Cool and grind to a powder.
    3. Squeeze the tamarind and strain to get about 2 cups of extract.
    4. Heat oil in a clay pot or wide pan. Splutter mustard and fenugreek seeds, then add curry leaves, onions and green chillies. Fry on medium heat for 6-7 minutes until the onions are soft and light golden.
    5. Add ginger-garlic paste and fry 1 minute. Add tomato, turmeric and chilli powder and cook until the tomato is mushy.
    6. Pour in the tamarind extract and salt and bring to a boil. Simmer for 8-10 minutes on medium heat until the raw tamarind taste is gone and the gravy thickens slightly.
    7. Add the fish pieces in a single layer and sprinkle the spice powder over. Do not stir; swirl the pot gently. Cover and simmer on low heat for 10-12 minutes until the fish is cooked and oil floats on top.
    8. Add jaggery and coriander, swirl once more, switch off and rest for at least 2 hours before serving.

    Tips

    • Firm, thick fish steaks hold their shape; delicate fish breaks in the long simmer.
    • Swirl, never stir, once the fish is in.
    • In Nellore style, add a few pieces of raw mango along with the tamarind.

    Serve with

    Hot rice with a spoon of ghee and fried appadams.

  • Bagara Baingan

    Bagara baingan is a Hyderabadi dish from the Nizam's kitchens, served at weddings and dawats alongside biryani and mirchi ka salan. Bagar refers to the tempering, and baingan to the small brinjals that are slit, fried and cooked in a thick sauce of roasted peanuts, sesame and dry coconut, soured with tamarind.

    The gravy is nutty, tangy, slightly sweet and spicy, with a glossy layer of oil on top. The brinjals become soft and creamy, soaking up the gravy. While the base is similar to mirchi ka salan, bagara baingan is richer and thicker. It is eaten with biryani, bagara khana (spiced rice) or roti.

    At a glance

    RegionTelangana
    CuisineHyderabadi
    DietVegan
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbaby brinjals / peanuts / sesame seeds / dry coconut / tamarind

    Ingredients

    For the masala paste

    • 1/4 cup raw peanuts
    • 2 tbsp white sesame seeds
    • 3 tbsp dry coconut, grated
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 large onion, sliced
    • 1 tbsp oil

    For the curry

    • 10 small purple brinjals (about 400 g), slit in a cross from the bottom with stem intact
    • 5 tbsp oil
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/4 tsp nigella seeds
    • 1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
    • 1 sprig curry leaves
    • 1 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1.5 tsp red chilli powder
    • 3 tbsp thick tamarind pulp
    • 1 tsp grated jaggery
    • 1.25 tsp salt
    • 1.5 cups water
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander leaves

    Method

    1. Dry roast the peanuts until golden, then the sesame until it pops, then the coconut, coriander and cumin until fragrant. In 1 tbsp oil fry the sliced onion for 6-7 minutes until golden brown. Grind everything together with a little water to a smooth paste.
    2. Heat 3 tbsp oil in a kadai and fry the brinjals on medium heat for 6-8 minutes, turning, until the skin wrinkles and they are about three-quarters cooked. Remove.
    3. Add 2 tbsp more oil to the kadai. Splutter mustard, cumin, nigella and fenugreek seeds, then add curry leaves and ginger-garlic paste and fry for 1 minute.
    4. Lower the heat, add turmeric, chilli powder and the ground paste. Fry, stirring frequently, for 6-8 minutes until the paste darkens and oil separates.
    5. Add tamarind pulp, jaggery, salt and water. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes.
    6. Add the fried brinjals, cover and cook on low heat for 10-12 minutes until the brinjals are completely tender and the gravy is thick with a layer of oil on top.
    7. Garnish with coriander and rest for 15 minutes before serving.

    Tips

    • Fry the brinjals until wrinkled first; that way they absorb gravy without falling apart.
    • The gravy should be thick enough to coat the brinjals, not runny.
    • Like most Hyderabadi gravies, it tastes better after a few hours.

    Serve with

    Hyderabadi biryani, bagara rice or chapati.