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Tag: Mild spice

  • Puran Poli

    Puran poli is the festive sweet bread of Maharashtra, made for Holi, Gudi Padwa, Ganesh Chaturthi and Pola, the bullock festival. Chana dal is cooked with jaggery until it becomes a thick, fragrant paste called puran, which is wrapped in a very soft dough and rolled thin. Karnataka has obbattu, Gujarat has vedmi, but the Maharashtrian poli is known for being paper-thin.

    The dough is made very soft and pliable with plenty of oil, often with maida mixed into wheat flour so it stretches without tearing. Inside, the puran is sweet, smooth and perfumed with cardamom and nutmeg. Each poli is roasted dry on a tawa until speckled and then brushed with ghee.

    It is eaten warm with a generous pour of ghee or with a cup of milk. The dal water is never thrown away: it becomes katachi amti, a thin, spiced dal served alongside. Making puran poli is a family effort and a skill passed down through generations. Leftover polis are often eaten the next morning.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMaharashtrian
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time60 minutes
    Total time100 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientschana dal / jaggery / wheat flour / ghee

    Ingredients

    For the puran

    • 1 cup (200 g) chana dal, soaked 2 hours
    • 3 cups water
    • 1 cup (200 g) grated jaggery
    • 2 tbsp sugar
    • 1/2 tsp cardamom powder
    • 1/4 tsp grated nutmeg
    • 1 tsp ghee

    For the dough

    • 1 cup (120 g) fine whole wheat flour
    • 1/2 cup (60 g) maida
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • A pinch of salt
    • 1/4 cup oil
    • Water as needed

    For rolling and roasting

    • Rice flour for dusting
    • Ghee to serve

    Method

    1. Make the dough: mix flours, turmeric and salt, add water gradually and knead to a very soft, sticky dough. Pour 2 tbsp oil over it and knead for 5 minutes until it absorbs. Add the rest of the oil, cover and rest for at least 1 hour.
    2. Pressure cook the soaked chana dal with 3 cups water for 3-4 whistles until it mashes easily between your fingers but is not mushy.
    3. Drain the dal in a colander for 10 minutes, saving the water for katachi amti.
    4. Put the dal and jaggery in a heavy pan on medium heat. The jaggery will melt and make it loose. Stir continuously for 15-20 minutes until it thickens; it is ready when a spoon stands upright in the centre.
    5. Add sugar, cardamom, nutmeg and ghee. While still hot, pass the mixture through a puran yantra or mash smooth with a masher. Cool completely, then divide into 12 balls.
    6. Oil your hands, take a lemon-sized piece of dough, flatten it into a cup and place a puran ball (about twice the dough's size) inside. Bring the edges up, seal and pinch off excess dough.
    7. Dust generously with rice flour and roll gently, without pressing hard, into a thin 8-inch circle. Rotate often and dust again if it sticks.
    8. Roast on a medium-hot tawa for about 1 minute until light brown spots appear underneath, flip and roast the other side. Do not add ghee while roasting. Brush with ghee and serve warm.

    Tips

    • If the puran is not cooked thick enough, it will ooze out while rolling. Do the spoon test before turning off the heat.
    • A very soft, well-oiled dough is the key to thin polis; rest it for at least an hour.
    • Polis keep for 2-3 days and can be warmed on a tawa.

    Serve with

    A spoon of ghee, warm milk, or katachi amti on the side.

  • Shrikhand

    Shrikhand is the strained-yogurt dessert of Maharashtra and Gujarat, made by hanging curd until it becomes chakka, a dense, cream-cheese-like mass, then beating it with sugar and flavourings. It is the centrepiece of Gudi Padwa lunches in Maharashtra and appears at weddings and festivals across both states. Amrakhand, with mango pulp, is the summer variation.

    The texture is smooth, thick and spoonable, cool on the tongue and gently tangy beneath the sweetness. Saffron gives a pale gold colour, cardamom and a little nutmeg add warmth, and chopped pistachios or charoli bring crunch. Good shrikhand is never grainy; passing it through a sieve after sweetening is what gives that silky finish.

    Shrikhand-puri is the classic pairing, with the hot, puffed puris used to scoop up the cold dessert. It is also served as a side in the festive thali next to batata bhaji and masale bhaat. Made at home it keeps well chilled for four days. Elaichi, kesar and mango versions are also sold in tubs across Maharashtra.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMaharashtrian
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time0 minutes
    Total time20 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientscurd / sugar / saffron / cardamom

    Ingredients

    • 1 kg fresh full-fat curd (yields about 450 g chakka)
    • 3/4 to 1 cup powdered sugar, to taste
    • A generous pinch of saffron soaked in 2 tbsp warm milk
    • 1/2 tsp cardamom powder
    • A small pinch of grated nutmeg
    • 1 tbsp chopped pistachios
    • 1 tbsp charoli (chironji) or sliced almonds

    Method

    1. Line a large sieve with a clean muslin cloth and set it over a bowl. Pour in the curd, gather the corners and tie into a bundle.
    2. Hang the bundle from a tap or place the sieve with a weight on top in the refrigerator for 8-10 hours, or overnight, until the curd is thick and no longer drips. It should hold its shape like soft paneer.
    3. Scrape the chakka into a bowl. Add the powdered sugar and mix with a spatula until the sugar dissolves completely; the mixture will loosen at first.
    4. Push the mixture through a fine sieve or a puran yantra with the back of a spoon. This step removes any lumps and makes it silky.
    5. Stir in the saffron milk, cardamom and nutmeg. Taste and add a little more sugar if needed.
    6. Fold in half the nuts, transfer to a serving bowl and top with the remaining nuts. Chill for at least 2 hours before serving.

    Tips

    • Hang the curd in the fridge, not on the counter, or it will turn too sour in warm weather.
    • Use powdered sugar rather than granulated so it dissolves without leaving grains.
    • Keep the drained whey; it is excellent for kneading chapati dough or in kadhi.

    Serve with

    Hot puris and batata bhaji, as part of a Gudi Padwa thali.

  • Gujarati Kadhi

    Gujarati kadhi is the light, pale yellow counterpart of the thicker, pakora-laden Punjabi version. It is made from sour curd whisked with a small amount of besan, sweetened with jaggery or sugar and tempered in ghee with whole spices. Most Gujarati thalis include it beside dal-bhaat or khichdi, and many people drink it straight from the katori.

    The taste is sweet first, then gently sour, with warmth from ginger and green chilli and a fragrance from cloves, cinnamon, methi seeds and curry leaves. It should be smooth and pourable, about the thickness of single cream. Because the besan quantity is low, it must be stirred continuously until it boils or the curd will split.

    Kadhi-khichdi is the comfort dinner of Gujarat, eaten when someone is unwell or when the cook wants a simple meal. It is also served with rotli and shaak on weekdays and alongside undhiyu in winter. Some families add a few pieces of bhindi or pakodi to make it more substantial, but the plain version is the everyday standard and the one most Gujaratis grew up drinking.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time5 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time25 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientscurd / besan / jaggery / curry leaves

    Ingredients

    For the kadhi

    • 1 cup sour curd
    • 3 tbsp besan
    • 3 cups water
    • 1 tsp grated ginger
    • 1-2 green chillies, slit
    • 2 tbsp grated jaggery or sugar
    • 1 tsp salt

    For the tempering

    • 1 tbsp ghee
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1/4 tsp methi seeds
    • 3 cloves
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 1 dried red chilli
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 10 curry leaves
    • 1 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Whisk the curd and besan together in a deep pan until there are no lumps at all. Gradually whisk in the water to a smooth, thin mixture.
    2. Add ginger, green chillies, jaggery and salt and place on medium heat.
    3. Stir continuously as it heats, scraping the bottom. This is the critical stage; after 6-8 minutes it will come to a boil. Do not stop stirring before it boils or the curd will curdle.
    4. Once it boils, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 8-10 minutes, stirring now and then, until slightly thickened and the raw besan smell is gone.
    5. In a small pan, heat ghee on medium. Add mustard seeds and let them pop, then cumin, methi seeds, cloves, cinnamon and red chilli for 20 seconds. Add asafoetida and curry leaves.
    6. Pour the tempering into the kadhi, stir, and simmer for 2 more minutes. Taste and adjust sugar and salt; it should be clearly sweet-sour. Garnish with coriander.

    Tips

    • Curd that is 2-3 days old gives the right sourness. With fresh curd, add a squeeze of lemon at the end, off the heat.
    • Kadhi thickens as it cools; thin it with a little hot water before reheating.
    • Use hing that is certified gluten-free if you need the dish strictly gluten-free, as many brands contain wheat flour.

    Serve with

    Plain khichdi or steamed rice, with papad and pickle.

  • Handvo

    Handvo is a savoury cake from Gujarat made with a fermented batter of rice and mixed lentils, folded with grated bottle gourd and baked until the outside turns into a crunchy, sesame-studded crust. Traditionally it was cooked in a special handva cooker, an aluminium pot with a central chimney that sat over a sand base, but a heavy pan on the stove or an ordinary oven works well.

    The inside is soft, moist and slightly tangy from fermentation, flecked with vegetables, while the top and bottom are dark golden and crisp. A little sugar balances the sourness, and the tempering of mustard, sesame and curry leaves poured into the pan becomes part of the crust. Edges darken almost to brown, and that is how it should look.

    Handvo is eaten for breakfast, tea or a light dinner, cut into wedges and served with green chutney and tea. Leftovers are excellent the next day, toasted on a tawa, which makes it a sensible weekend dish to cook in a large quantity. Vegetables can be changed with the season: grated cabbage, corn or methi all work well alongside the lauki.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time40 minutes
    Total time65 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / toor dal / bottle gourd / sesame seeds

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1 cup rice
    • 1/4 cup toor dal
    • 2 tbsp chana dal
    • 2 tbsp urad dal
    • 2 tbsp moong dal
    • 1/2 cup sour curd
    • 1 cup grated bottle gourd (lauki), lightly squeezed
    • 1/4 cup grated carrot
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 1 tbsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp sugar
    • 1 1/4 tsp salt
    • 1/2 tsp baking soda or 1 tsp Eno

    For the tempering

    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tbsp white sesame seeds
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 10 curry leaves
    • 1 dried red chilli

    Method

    1. Wash the rice and dals and soak for 5-6 hours. Drain and grind with the curd and minimal water to a coarse, thick batter. Cover and ferment overnight in a warm place.
    2. Mix the bottle gourd, carrot, coriander, ginger-chilli paste, turmeric, chilli powder, sugar and salt into the fermented batter. It should be thick and drop off the spoon in clumps.
    3. Just before cooking, sprinkle the soda over the batter, add 1 tbsp water on it and fold in well.
    4. Heat the oil in a heavy 8-9 inch non-stick or cast iron pan on medium. Add mustard seeds, and when they pop add sesame, ajwain, asafoetida, curry leaves and red chilli. Let the sesame turn light gold, about 30 seconds.
    5. Pour the batter over the tempering and spread it evenly about 1 inch thick. Cover and cook on low heat for 15-18 minutes, until the top looks set and the bottom is deep golden and crisp.
    6. Slide the handvo onto a plate, flip it back into the pan and cook the other side, uncovered, on low for 10-12 minutes until crisp. A skewer should come out clean.
    7. Rest for 5 minutes, then cut into wedges. Oven method: pour batter into a greased tin, top with tempering and bake at 180 C for 40-45 minutes.

    Tips

    • Squeeze only some water out of the lauki; the rest keeps the inside moist.
    • The low flame is essential. On high the crust burns before the thick centre cooks.
    • Ready-made handvo flour from Gujarati stores can replace the soaked grains; mix with curd and ferment 6-8 hours.

    Serve with

    Green coriander chutney and a cup of masala chai.

  • Dal Dhokli

    Dal dhokli is Gujarat's one-pot comfort meal, made by cooking strips of spiced wheat dough directly in thin toor dal. Rajasthan has a similar dish called dal ki dulhan, and Maharashtra makes varan phal, but the Gujarati version is distinctly sweet-sour, with jaggery, kokum or lemon, and peanuts that soften in the dal. Sunday lunch and rainy evenings are its usual occasions.

    The dhokli are rolled from wheat flour seasoned with ajwain, turmeric and chilli, cut into diamonds and dropped into the bubbling dal. They swell, turn tender and release a little starch that thickens the broth. The dal itself is light, fragrant with cloves, cinnamon and curry leaves, and finished with a spoon of ghee.

    It needs nothing else, though most families serve it with a squeeze of lemon, chopped onion and papad. The dish thickens a lot as it stands, so serve it hot and freshly made. Adding a handful of chopped peanuts, a few cashews or drumstick pieces is common in some homes, and leftovers are reheated with a generous splash of hot water.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time35 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientstoor dal / whole wheat flour / peanuts / jaggery

    Ingredients

    For the dal

    • 3/4 cup toor dal, washed
    • 3 cups water, plus 2 cups more later
    • 1/4 cup raw peanuts
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tomato, chopped
    • 1 tsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 1 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 2 tbsp grated jaggery
    • 3-4 kokum petals or 1 1/2 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 1/2 tsp salt

    For the dhokli

    • 1 cup (120 g) whole wheat flour
    • 2 tbsp besan
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1/4 tsp ajwain
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp oil
    • Water to knead

    For the tempering

    • 2 tbsp ghee
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp methi seeds
    • 3 cloves
    • 1 inch cinnamon
    • 2 dried red chillies
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 10 curry leaves
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Pressure cook the toor dal and peanuts with 3 cups water and turmeric for 4-5 whistles on medium heat until the dal is very soft. Let the pressure drop naturally.
    2. Meanwhile, mix all dhokli ingredients and knead into a firm, smooth dough, slightly stiffer than chapati dough. Rest for 10 minutes.
    3. Whisk the cooked dal smooth, leaving the peanuts whole. Add 2 cups water, tomato, ginger-chilli paste, chilli powder, jaggery, kokum and salt. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes.
    4. Divide the dough into 3 balls and roll each into a thin round about 8 inches wide. Cut into 1 1/2 inch diamonds with a knife.
    5. With the dal at a rolling boil on medium-high, drop the dhokli in a few at a time, stirring gently so they do not stick together.
    6. Lower the heat to medium and simmer for 12-15 minutes, stirring now and then, until the dhokli are cooked through and no longer taste of raw flour when bitten. Add hot water if it gets too thick.
    7. Heat ghee in a small pan, crackle mustard seeds, then add methi seeds, cloves, cinnamon, red chillies, asafoetida and curry leaves. Pour over the dal dhokli, garnish with coriander and serve hot.

    Tips

    • Keep the dal boiling when adding the dhokli; if it is merely warm, the pieces turn gummy and clump.
    • Roll the dough thin. Thick dhokli stay doughy in the centre.
    • The dish keeps thickening; thin it with boiling water before serving leftovers.

    Serve with

    A squeeze of lemon, chopped onion, roasted papad and a spoon of ghee.

  • Methi Thepla

    Every Gujarati family that travels carries theplas. These thin, spiced flatbreads made with whole wheat flour and fresh fenugreek stay soft for three to four days without refrigeration, so they fill tiffins on train journeys, foreign trips and pilgrimages. The curd and oil in the dough are what keep them supple long after cooking.

    Methi gives a pleasant bitterness that is balanced by a little jaggery or sugar, turmeric, chilli and sesame seeds. Some cooks add a spoon of besan for a nuttier taste. The thepla is rolled thinner than a paratha and cooked with a light brush of oil, so it is soft and flexible rather than flaky.

    At home it is a breakfast or dinner bread, eaten with chhundo (grated sweet mango pickle), plain curd or a dry potato shaak. Many families make theplas in bulk on Sunday and use them through the week. Dudhi, spinach or leftover dal can replace the methi, and each variation has its loyal fans within the same household.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseBread
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientswhole wheat flour / fenugreek leaves / curd / sesame seeds

    Ingredients

    • 2 cups (240 g) whole wheat flour
    • 2 tbsp besan
    • 1 cup fresh methi leaves, washed and finely chopped (packed)
    • 1/3 cup curd
    • 1 tsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander-cumin powder
    • 1 tsp white sesame seeds
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • 1 tsp grated jaggery or sugar
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp oil, plus more for cooking
    • Water as needed

    Method

    1. Combine the flour, besan, methi, all spices, sesame, ajwain, jaggery and salt in a wide bowl. Rub in 2 tbsp oil.
    2. Add the curd and mix. Add water a tablespoon at a time and knead into a soft, smooth dough, a little softer than chapati dough. Methi releases moisture, so go slowly.
    3. Rub a few drops of oil over the dough, cover and rest for 15-20 minutes.
    4. Divide into 12 balls. Dust one with flour and roll into a thin circle about 7 inches across, turning to keep it round.
    5. Heat a tawa on medium-high. Place the thepla on it and cook for about 30 seconds until small bubbles appear, then flip.
    6. Brush 1/2 tsp oil on top, flip again and press gently with a spatula. Brush the other side and cook until golden-brown spots appear on both sides, about 1 minute total.
    7. Stack the cooked theplas on a plate lined with a cloth and keep covered so they stay soft. Cool completely before packing.

    Tips

    • Do not add salt to the chopped methi and leave it standing; it will turn watery and make the dough sticky.
    • For travel, cool theplas fully before stacking in a container lined with paper so condensation does not make them soggy.
    • Cook on medium-high; too low a flame dries them out and they turn stiff.

    Serve with

    Chhundo or sweet mango pickle, plain curd and masala chai.

  • Khandvi

    Khandvi, also called patuli or suralichi vadi in Maharashtra, is the most delicate of Gujarati farsan. Gram flour and sour buttermilk are cooked together into a glossy paste, spread paper-thin on a counter or the back of a thali, cut into strips and rolled. Done well, the rolls are soft enough to collapse on the tongue.

    The flavour is mild and tangy from the buttermilk, with a little ginger and green chilli, and the tempering of mustard seeds, sesame and curry leaves adds crunch and aroma. Coconut and coriander on top bring freshness. It is never heavy, which is why it appears at weddings and festive meals alongside richer sweets.

    Khandvi has a reputation for being tricky, and the difficulty lies in judging when the batter is cooked. Undercooked, it will not set; overcooked, it turns lumpy and refuses to spread. The plate test in step five takes the guesswork away. Once you have the knack, a whole batch takes under half an hour from bowl to plate.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time30 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbesan / buttermilk / sesame seeds / coconut

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1/2 cup (50 g) besan
    • 1/2 cup sour curd whisked with 1 cup water (1 1/2 cups buttermilk)
    • 1 tsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • A pinch of asafoetida

    For the tempering

    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp white sesame seeds
    • 8 curry leaves
    • 1 green chilli, finely chopped
    • 2 tbsp grated fresh coconut
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Lightly grease the back of two large steel thalis or a clean kitchen counter, and keep a spatula ready.
    2. Whisk the besan, buttermilk, ginger-chilli paste, turmeric, salt and asafoetida in a heavy non-stick pan until completely smooth with no lumps.
    3. Place the pan on medium-low heat and stir continuously with a whisk. After 4-5 minutes it will start thickening; switch to a spatula and keep stirring, scraping the sides.
    4. Continue for another 6-8 minutes. The mixture will turn thick, glossy and leave the sides of the pan as one mass.
    5. Test: spread a spoonful thinly on a greased plate and wait 30 seconds. If it peels and rolls cleanly, it is ready. If it sticks, cook 1-2 minutes more and test again.
    6. Working fast while hot, pour a portion onto the greased surface and spread it thin and even with the spatula in long strokes. Repeat with the rest.
    7. Let it set for 5 minutes. Cut into strips 2 inches wide and roll each strip tightly from one end. Arrange on a plate seam side down.
    8. Heat oil, crackle mustard seeds, add sesame, curry leaves and chilli for 20 seconds. Pour over the rolls and garnish with coconut and coriander.

    Tips

    • Use a 1:3 ratio of besan to buttermilk by volume; this is the proportion that sets reliably.
    • Spreading must be done the moment it comes off the heat. As it cools it thickens and tears.
    • Pressure-cooker method: cook the batter in a bowl for 3 whistles, then whisk smooth and spread.

    Serve with

    Eaten as is, or with a thin green chutney as part of a farsan plate.

  • Khaman

    Khaman is the bright yellow, sponge-soft gram flour cake that most people outside Gujarat call dhokla. In Ahmedabad and Surat the distinction is clear: dhokla is fermented rice batter, khaman is besan raised with citric acid and soda. Farsan shops sell it by weight every morning, along with nylon khaman, an even lighter version.

    Good khaman is airy and moist, with an open crumb that drinks up the tempering. That final pour of water, sugar, lemon and tempered mustard seeds is what makes it sweet, sour and juicy rather than dry. It should spring back when pressed and leave the plate slightly wet. Lemon and sugar should both be clearly present.

    It is eaten at breakfast, packed in tiffins and served to guests at any hour, usually with a sweet-hot green chutney and fried green chillies. Because it takes so little time, it is a common answer when visitors arrive unannounced in a Gujarati home. Leftover pieces stay soft for a day if kept covered at room temperature, and they are often packed for school lunch boxes.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegan
    CourseSnack
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time35 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbesan / lemon / sugar / mustard seeds

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1 1/2 cups (150 g) fine besan
    • 1 tbsp semolina (optional, for structure)
    • 1 tbsp sugar
    • 1 tsp citric acid or 2 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 tsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 3/4 tsp salt
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tbsp oil
    • About 3/4 cup water
    • 1 1/2 tsp Eno fruit salt

    For the tempering

    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp sesame seeds
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 10 curry leaves
    • 1/2 cup water
    • 2 tbsp sugar
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 2 tbsp grated fresh coconut and chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Put 2 inches of water in a steamer or large pan with a stand and bring it to a rolling boil on high heat. Grease an 8-inch tin.
    2. Sift the besan into a bowl. Add semolina, sugar, citric acid, ginger-chilli paste, salt, turmeric and oil. Whisk in water gradually to a smooth batter that flows like pancake batter, then whisk for 2 minutes more.
    3. Add Eno, pour 1 tsp water over it and whisk briskly in one direction for 10 seconds. The batter will double and turn pale. Pour immediately into the tin.
    4. Steam covered on high for 15-18 minutes without opening the lid for the first 12. A skewer in the centre should come out clean.
    5. Rest the khaman for 5 minutes, then run a knife round the edge and cut into squares while still in the tin.
    6. For the tempering, heat oil, crackle mustard seeds, add sesame, asafoetida, chillies and curry leaves for 20 seconds. Carefully add the water and sugar and boil for 1 minute until the sugar dissolves. Turn off and add lemon juice.
    7. Spoon the hot tempering evenly over the warm khaman so it soaks in. Garnish with coconut and coriander.

    Tips

    • Old besan or a batter left standing after adding Eno gives dense khaman. Work quickly once the Eno goes in.
    • If the top turns reddish, there is too much soda for the acid; add a little more lemon next time.
    • Pour the tempering while the khaman is still warm so it absorbs fully.

    Serve with

    Green chutney, fried salted green chillies and a cup of tea.

  • Khatta Dhokla

    Khatta dhokla is the original dhokla of Gujarat, older and plainer than the yellow besan khaman that outsiders usually picture. It is made from rice and a little urad or chana dal, ground coarse with sour curd and left to ferment overnight. The name means sour dhokla, and that gentle tang from fermentation is the whole point.

    The texture is soft, slightly grainy and moist, closer to a thick idli than to a sponge cake. The pieces are pale white, dusted with crushed black pepper or red chilli on top before steaming, and finished with oil tempered with mustard and sesame seeds. There is no sugar syrup poured over, which keeps the flavour savoury and clean.

    Gujarati homes make it for breakfast, as a tea-time snack, or as part of a Sunday farsan spread. It is often eaten with a drizzle of raw groundnut oil and a spoon of garlic chutney, a combination common in Kathiawad. Leftover pieces are tossed in a pan with tadka the next day.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time45 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / urad dal / curd / ginger

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1 cup rice (regular or idli rice)
    • 1/4 cup urad dal
    • 2 tbsp chana dal
    • 1/2 cup sour curd
    • About 1/2 cup water
    • 1 tbsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp oil
    • 1/2 tsp Eno fruit salt or 1/4 tsp baking soda

    For topping and tadka

    • 1/2 tsp crushed black pepper
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp white sesame seeds
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 8-10 curry leaves
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Wash the rice and dals together and soak in plenty of water for 5-6 hours.
    2. Drain and grind with the sour curd and just enough water to a slightly coarse, thick batter, like fine semolina. Transfer to a large bowl, cover and ferment in a warm place for 8-10 hours, until bubbly and pleasantly sour.
    3. Set up a steamer with 2 inches of water on high heat. Grease a 7-8 inch thali or cake tin with oil.
    4. Stir the ginger-chilli paste, salt and 1 tbsp oil into the batter. Just before steaming, add Eno with a splash of water on top of it and fold gently in one direction until the batter turns frothy.
    5. Pour into the greased thali to about 1/2 inch deep. Sprinkle crushed pepper over the surface.
    6. Steam on high for 12-15 minutes until a knife inserted in the centre comes out clean. Rest for 5 minutes, then cut into squares or diamonds.
    7. Heat 2 tbsp oil, add mustard seeds and let them pop, then add sesame, asafoetida and curry leaves. Pour evenly over the dhokla and garnish with coriander.

    Tips

    • In winter, ferment in an oven with just the light on, or add the salt before fermenting to speed it up.
    • Do not add Eno until the steamer is boiling; it loses its lift within a couple of minutes.
    • The batter should be thicker than idli batter; thin batter gives flat, dense dhokla.

    Serve with

    Garlic-red chilli chutney or green chutney, with raw groundnut oil drizzled on top.

  • Ghevar

    Ghevar is the monsoon sweet of Rajasthan, made in the weeks around Teej and Raksha Bandhan and rarely seen the rest of the year. Halwais in Jaipur and Ajmer pour a thin ghee-and-flour batter in streams into a deep ring mould set in hot ghee, building up a lacy, porous disc. Brides traditionally receive ghevar from their parents during Sawan, which keeps the sweet tied to the season.

    The plain disc is crisp, airy and nearly flavourless, a sponge for what comes next. Dipped in sugar syrup it becomes sweet and crunchy; topped with thickened rabri it turns rich and soft at the centre while keeping crunch at the edges. Malai ghevar, the most popular version, carries a thick layer of rabri, saffron and slivered nuts.

    Making it at home is about technique rather than fancy equipment. A small heavy pan, a steel ring or a narrow tall vessel, ice-cold batter and very hot ghee are enough. The first disc is usually a practice run, so make extra batter. Sweet shops sell it by the kilo in August, and a plain disc bought from them can be finished at home with fresh rabri.

    At a glance

    RegionRajasthan
    CuisineRajasthani
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time45 minutes
    Total time65 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientsmaida / ghee / sugar / milk

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1/4 cup (50 g) ghee, solid but soft
    • 4-5 ice cubes
    • 1 cup (125 g) maida
    • 1/4 cup cold milk
    • About 1 1/2 cups ice-cold water
    • 1 tsp lemon juice

    For the syrup

    • 1 cup sugar
    • 1/2 cup water
    • 4 green cardamoms, crushed

    For the topping

    • 1 litre full-fat milk, reduced to rabri with 3 tbsp sugar
    • A pinch of saffron soaked in 1 tbsp warm milk
    • 2 tbsp slivered almonds and pistachios

    To fry

    • About 500 g ghee

    Method

    1. Put the ghee and ice cubes in a bowl and rub together with your palm for 4-5 minutes until the ghee turns white and creamy. Remove any remaining ice.
    2. Add the maida in two parts with the cold milk, whisking until smooth. Gradually whisk in ice-cold water until the batter is very thin, like buttermilk. Add the lemon juice. Keep the bowl over ice.
    3. Make the syrup: boil sugar, water and cardamom for 6-7 minutes to a one-string consistency. Keep warm.
    4. Heat ghee in a deep, narrow pan or in a pan holding a 6-inch steel ring until it is very hot, filling it to about 3 inches deep. A drop of batter should sizzle hard and rise instantly.
    5. Pour 2 tbsp batter in a thin stream from a height of about a foot into the centre. It will froth violently. Wait until the froth settles, about 15-20 seconds, then pour the next stream into the centre again.
    6. Repeat 6-8 times, always into the centre, so a hole forms in the middle and the disc builds up in lacy layers. Cook on medium-high for 2-3 more minutes, ladling hot ghee over the centre, until golden and firm.
    7. Lift out the disc with a skewer through the centre hole and drain upright for a few minutes. Make the remaining discs the same way.
    8. Just before serving, dip each ghevar in warm syrup for a few seconds or pour syrup over it. Spread rabri on top, drizzle saffron milk and scatter nuts.

    Tips

    • The batter must stay ice-cold and the ghee very hot; that temperature shock is what produces the honeycomb.
    • If the batter stops forming lace and just sinks, it has become thick. Whisk in a little more cold water.
    • Plain fried discs keep for a week in an airtight tin; add syrup and rabri only on the day.

    Serve with

    Served on its own, cut into wedges, ideally with chilled rabri on the side.