Tag: Mild spice

  • Indori Poha

    Poha is a breakfast across western and central India, but Indore has made it a civic identity. Street stalls near Sarafa and Chappan Dukan serve it from huge steaming pans from early morning, usually with jalebi on the side. Indore's version is steamed rather than stir-fried, so the flakes stay soft and separate.

    Indori poha is sweeter and more aromatic than Maharashtrian kanda poha. Fennel seeds and a little sugar go into it, and the finishing touches are crucial: a sprinkle of jeeravan masala, a local blend of cumin, black salt, dried mango and other spices, plus thin ratlami sev, chopped onion, pomegranate and coriander. A squeeze of lemon brings it together.

    At a glance

    RegionMadhya Pradesh
    CuisineMalwa
    DietVegan
    CourseBreakfast
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time15 minutes
    Total time25 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientspoha (flattened rice) / onion / fennel seeds / sev

    Ingredients

    For the poha

    • 2 cups thick poha
    • 1 1/2 tbsp sugar
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp fennel seeds (saunf)
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 8 curry leaves
    • 2 green chillies, chopped
    • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
    • 2 tbsp roasted peanuts

    For the topping

    • 1 tsp jeeravan masala
    • 1/2 cup ratlami or nylon sev
    • 1 small onion, finely chopped
    • 3 tbsp pomegranate seeds
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • Lemon wedges

    Method

    1. Rinse the poha in a colander under running water for 20-30 seconds, tossing gently, until just softened. Drain well and leave for 5 minutes.
    2. Sprinkle sugar, salt and turmeric over the damp poha and fluff with your fingers so it is evenly coloured.
    3. Heat oil in a kadhai on medium heat. Add mustard seeds and let them splutter, then fennel, cumin, asafoetida, curry leaves and green chillies. Fry for 20 seconds.
    4. Add the onion and cook for 2 minutes until translucent but not browned, then add the peanuts.
    5. Add the poha and toss gently to combine. Sprinkle 2 tbsp water over it.
    6. Cover and cook on the lowest heat for 4-5 minutes so the poha steams and turns soft and fluffy. Traditional stalls steam it in a pan set over boiling water.
    7. Serve on plates, topped generously with jeeravan masala, sev, raw onion, pomegranate and coriander, with lemon on the side.

    Tips

    • Do not soak the poha in a bowl – rinsing in a colander keeps the flakes from turning mushy.
    • No jeeravan masala? Mix roasted cumin powder, black salt, amchur, a pinch of black pepper and a little chaat masala.
    • Poha itself is gluten free, but most packaged sev contains wheat or is fried alongside it; check if needed.

    Serve with

    Hot jalebi and a cup of cutting chai.

  • Sel Roti

    Sel roti is the festive bread of Nepali-speaking communities in Sikkim, Darjeeling and Nepal, made in large quantities for Tihar and Dashain and for weddings. Families gather early in the morning to make them, and they are shared with neighbours and relatives and kept for days as a snack. Many households still keep the batter recipe by feel rather than measure.

    Rice soaked overnight is ground with sugar, ghee and mashed banana into a thick batter, then poured into hot oil in a large ring by hand. The roti puffs and browns, crisp at the edges and soft, spongy and chewy within, faintly sweet with the aroma of ghee and cardamom. It is eaten with tea, with aloo dum or with yogurt.

    At a glance

    RegionSikkim
    CuisineSikkimese
    DietVegetarian
    CourseBread
    Prep time30 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time60 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / sugar / ghee / banana

    Ingredients

    • 2 cups raw rice (sona masoori or local rice), soaked overnight
    • 1/2 cup sugar
    • 1 ripe banana, mashed
    • 3 tbsp ghee, melted
    • 1/2 tsp green cardamom powder
    • 1/2 cup milk or water, as needed
    • A pinch of baking soda (optional)
    • Oil for deep frying

    Method

    1. Drain the soaked rice well and spread it on a cloth for 15 minutes to remove excess water.
    2. Grind the rice with sugar and banana, adding milk a little at a time, to a fine, thick batter that flows slowly like thick pancake batter. It should not feel gritty when rubbed between fingers.
    3. Stir in the melted ghee and cardamom. Cover and rest for 1-2 hours at room temperature. Add the baking soda just before frying if using.
    4. Heat the oil in a deep kadhai on medium heat until a drop of batter rises immediately with steady bubbles.
    5. Take a handful of batter in your fist, or fill a squeeze bottle, and pour it into the oil in a large ring about 12 cm across, closing the circle where you started.
    6. Fry for about 1 minute until the underside is golden, then flip with a long stick or skewer and fry another minute until both sides are reddish-golden.
    7. Lift out with the skewer through the centre and drain on a rack. Fry the rest, stirring the batter between batches.

    Tips

    • If the ring breaks up in the oil, the batter is too thin – add a spoon of rice flour.
    • Practise the ring shape on a plate with a squeeze bottle before trying it in the oil.
    • Keep the oil at a steady medium; too hot and the outside browns while the inside stays raw.

    Serve with

    Milky tea, aloo dum or thick yogurt.

  • Chak-hao Kheer

    Chak-hao is the aromatic black rice of Manipur, which received a GI tag in 2020. It was once grown for royalty and is still central to feasts and religious occasions, where chak-hao amubi, the black rice pudding, is served as the closing sweet. The rice is high in anthocyanins, which give it its colour.

    When cooked slowly in milk, the grains release a deep violet colour and a nutty, slightly earthy flavour that sets it apart from regular kheer. The texture is chewier and less mushy, and only a little sugar and cardamom are needed. It is served warm in winter and chilled in summer, sometimes topped with chopped nuts.

    At a glance

    RegionManipur
    CuisineManipuri
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time60 minutes
    Total time70 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsblack rice / milk / sugar / cardamom

    Ingredients

    • 1/3 cup chak-hao (Manipuri black rice), soaked overnight
    • 1 litre full-fat milk
    • 1 cup water
    • 1/3 cup sugar
    • 1/2 tsp green cardamom powder
    • 1 bay leaf (optional)
    • 1 tbsp chopped cashews
    • 1 tbsp raisins

    Method

    1. Drain the soaked black rice. Cook it with 1 cup water in a pressure cooker for 3-4 whistles on medium heat, or simmer in a covered pan for 30 minutes, until soft.
    2. Bring the milk to a boil in a heavy-bottomed pan with the bay leaf.
    3. Add the cooked rice with any remaining water to the milk. Simmer on low heat for 25-30 minutes, stirring every few minutes and scraping the bottom so it does not stick.
    4. When the milk has reduced by about a third and the kheer is a deep purple and creamy, add the sugar. Stir and simmer for 5 more minutes.
    5. Stir in the cardamom powder, cashews and raisins and remove the bay leaf.
    6. Serve warm, or cool and refrigerate for 2-3 hours to serve chilled. It thickens considerably as it cools.

    Tips

    • Black rice takes much longer than white rice to soften – do not skip the overnight soak.
    • Add the sugar only after the rice is fully cooked; sugar hardens rice grains that are still firm.
    • Thin the chilled kheer with a little cold milk if it sets too thick.

    Serve with

    Served warm in small bowls at the end of a festive meal.

  • Jadoh

    Jadoh is the signature dish of the Khasi and Jaintia people of Meghalaya. In Shillong's Police Bazaar and Laitumkhrah, small jadoh stalls serve it from dawn, often with pork offal, fried fish or a pork curry, and it is the meal people head to after a long night or a cold morning walk.

    It is rice cooked in pork fat and stock with plenty of ginger, onion and turmeric, so each grain turns yellow, glossy and savoury. Traditional versions use the local red rice and sometimes cook the rice with pig's blood (jadoh snam). The version here uses pork pieces and ordinary rice, and is mildly spiced so the meat and ginger lead.

    At a glance

    RegionMeghalaya
    CuisineKhasi
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseRice
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time70 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice / pork / ginger / onion / turmeric

    Ingredients

    • 1 1/2 cups short-grain or local red rice, washed and soaked 20 minutes
    • 400 g pork with some fat, cut into small 2 cm pieces
    • 2 tbsp pork fat or oil
    • 2 onions, finely chopped
    • 2 tbsp ginger, finely chopped or crushed
    • 1 tbsp garlic, crushed
    • 1 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1/2 tsp black pepper
    • 2 bay leaves
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 3 1/2 cups hot water
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Put the pork pieces in a heavy pot on medium heat with 1/4 cup water. Cover and cook for 15 minutes until the water evaporates and the fat starts to render.
    2. Add the pork fat or oil and fry the pork on medium heat for 5-6 minutes until lightly browned.
    3. Add the onions, ginger, garlic and bay leaves and fry for 6-8 minutes until the onions are soft and golden.
    4. Stir in turmeric, black pepper, green chillies and salt and cook for 1 minute.
    5. Drain the rice and add it to the pot. Stir gently for 2 minutes so every grain is coated in the fat and turns yellow.
    6. Pour in the hot water, bring to a boil, then cover and cook on the lowest heat for 18-20 minutes until the rice is cooked and the water absorbed. Red rice may need 10 minutes longer and a little more water.
    7. Turn off the heat and leave covered for 10 minutes, then fluff gently and serve.

    Tips

    • Do not skimp on ginger – it is the dominant flavour after the pork.
    • For a lighter dish, use chicken thighs instead of pork, though it is then no longer classic jadoh.
    • Leftover jadoh reheats well with a splash of water in a covered pan.

    Serve with

    Doh khlieh (pork salad), a pork curry, or a fiery tomato chutney.

  • Assamese Khar

    Khar is both an ingredient and a dish, and it is so central to Assamese identity that the community sometimes calls itself 'khar khowa', the khar eaters. The ingredient is an alkaline liquid made by burning dried peel of the bhim kol banana, mixing the ash with water and filtering it. Traditionally khar is the first dish eaten at a meal.

    The most common version is papaya khar: raw papaya, often with a little masoor dal or rice, cooked in mustard oil with garlic and green chilli and then simmered with a spoon of khar. The alkali softens the vegetables and gives a distinctive smooth, slightly soapy-earthy taste that is hard to compare to anything else. Baking soda is the usual substitute outside Assam.

    At a glance

    RegionAssam
    CuisineAssamese
    DietVegan
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time40 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsraw papaya / masoor dal / khar (banana ash water) / garlic

    Ingredients

    • 2 cups raw papaya, peeled and cut into 2 cm cubes
    • 1/4 cup masoor dal, soaked 20 minutes
    • 2 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds or panch phoron
    • 4 garlic cloves, crushed
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 1 1/2 tbsp khar (or 1/4 tsp baking soda dissolved in 2 tbsp water)
    • 1 1/2 cups water
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Heat the mustard oil in a pan until it smokes, then lower the heat to medium.
    2. Add the fenugreek seeds and let them turn light brown, then add the crushed garlic and green chillies and fry for 30 seconds until fragrant.
    3. Add the papaya cubes and drained masoor dal. Stir-fry on medium heat for 3-4 minutes.
    4. Add salt and 1 1/2 cups water and bring to a boil.
    5. Stir in the khar. Cover and simmer on low heat for 15-18 minutes until the papaya is soft and the dal has broken down.
    6. Mash a few papaya pieces lightly to thicken the gravy. It should be a loose, soupy consistency. Serve hot.

    Tips

    • Be careful with the quantity – too much khar or baking soda makes the dish taste soapy and bitter.
    • Some families add a handful of soaked rice with the dal to give the khar more body, or a few pieces of fish head for a non-vegetarian version.
    • Khar is eaten in small portions as the first course, mixed with a little rice.

    Serve with

    The first few mouthfuls of plain rice at an Assamese meal.

  • Masor Tenga

    Masor tenga means sour fish, and it is the curry Assamese families eat most often, especially in the hot, humid months. Sour food is believed to cool the body, and the souring agent changes with the season: ripe tomato, outenga (elephant apple), thekera (dried mangosteen), lemon, or kaji nemu, the long fragrant Assamese lemon.

    Compared with most Indian fish curries it is thin, bright and simple. Rohu or another freshwater fish is fried lightly in mustard oil, then simmered in a tomato broth tempered with fenugreek seeds. There is no coconut, no heavy masala, only turmeric, green chillies and coriander. The soup is meant to be poured over rice.

    At a glance

    RegionAssam
    CuisineAssamese
    DietNon-vegetarian
    CourseMain course
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time40 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrohu fish / tomato / lemon / mustard oil

    Ingredients

    • 500 g rohu steaks
    • 1 tsp turmeric powder, divided
    • 1 1/2 tsp salt, divided
    • 4 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds (methi)
    • 4 ripe tomatoes, chopped
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 2 cups water
    • Juice of 1 lemon (or 1/2 Assamese kaji nemu)
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Rub the fish steaks with 1/2 tsp turmeric and 1 tsp salt and set aside for 10 minutes.
    2. Heat the mustard oil in a kadhai until smoking, then lower to medium. Fry the fish for 2 minutes per side until lightly golden; they need not be fully cooked. Remove.
    3. In the same oil add the fenugreek seeds and fry for 10-15 seconds until they turn reddish brown; do not let them blacken.
    4. Add the tomatoes, remaining turmeric and salt. Cook on medium heat for 6-7 minutes, mashing with the spatula, until the tomatoes turn soft and pulpy.
    5. Pour in 2 cups water and add the green chillies. Bring to a boil and simmer for 3 minutes.
    6. Slide in the fried fish and simmer on low heat for 6-7 minutes until the fish is cooked through.
    7. Turn off the heat, stir in the lemon juice and coriander, and serve hot.

    Tips

    • Add the lemon only after switching off the heat; boiling makes it bitter.
    • For outengar tenga, add a few pieces of elephant apple with the tomatoes and skip the lemon.
    • Fried fenugreek should smell nutty – burnt seeds make the whole curry bitter.

    Serve with

    Plain steamed rice, with aloo pitika on the side.

  • Thekua

    Thekua is inseparable from Chhath Puja, the Bihari festival in which devotees offer prayers to the setting and rising sun from riverbanks and ponds. Families make huge batches in the days before, and the cookies go into the bamboo soop baskets as the main offering. Afterwards they are shared with neighbours and posted to relatives across the country.

    The dough is plain atta bound with melted jaggery and ghee, flavoured with fennel seeds, cardamom and grated dried coconut. Each piece is pressed onto a carved wooden sancha so it carries a pattern, then fried slowly until deep brown. Good thekua is hard and crunchy outside, lightly crumbly inside, and keeps for weeks in an airtight tin.

    At a glance

    RegionBihar
    CuisineBihari
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSnack
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves8
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientswhole wheat flour / jaggery / ghee / coconut

    Ingredients

    • 2 cups whole wheat flour (about 250 g)
    • 3/4 cup grated jaggery (about 150 g)
    • 1/2 cup water
    • 4 tbsp ghee, melted
    • 3 tbsp desiccated or grated dry coconut
    • 1 tsp fennel seeds
    • 1/2 tsp green cardamom powder
    • 1 tbsp chopped dry fruits (optional)
    • Ghee or oil for deep frying

    Method

    1. Warm the jaggery with 1/2 cup water on low heat, stirring, just until it melts completely. Do not boil it into a syrup. Strain and let it cool until lukewarm.
    2. In a bowl mix the atta, coconut, fennel, cardamom and dry fruits. Add the melted ghee and rub it into the flour with your fingertips until it holds together when pressed in a fist.
    3. Add the jaggery water a little at a time and knead into a stiff, tight dough – stiffer than chapati dough. Cover and rest for 15 minutes.
    4. Pinch off lime-sized balls, flatten each slightly, and press firmly onto a greased thekua mould or the back of a fork to make a pattern. The pieces should be about 5 mm thick.
    5. Heat ghee or oil in a kadhai on medium heat. Test with a pinch of dough; it should rise slowly with small bubbles, not sizzle violently.
    6. Fry 5-6 thekuas at a time on medium-low heat for 7-8 minutes, turning once, until they are deep reddish-brown on both sides.
    7. Drain on a rack and let them cool completely – they crisp up as they cool. Store in an airtight container.

    Tips

    • Fry slowly; on high heat the outside darkens while the centre stays raw and soft.
    • A soft dough makes thekua spread and lose its pattern – keep it stiff.
    • For a lighter version, bake at 180 C for 20-25 minutes, though the texture will be more like a biscuit.

    Serve with

    With tea, or as prasad after Chhath Puja.

  • Santula

    Santula is the Odia home cook's answer to a light, nourishing vegetable dish. It is cooked for children, for the elderly and for anyone recovering from illness, and it fits right into a summer meal. Some families make it without any tempering at all, simply boiling the vegetables and adding salt and ghee.

    The flavour is mild and clean: mixed vegetables simmered until soft, then dressed in a tempering of mustard oil, panch phoron, garlic and green chilli. A splash of milk at the end, in the 'dudha santula' style, makes it gently creamy. It is not meant to be rich or fiery; the vegetables should taste of themselves.

    At a glance

    RegionOdisha
    CuisineOdia
    DietVegetarian
    CourseSide dish
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time35 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsraw papaya / potato / brinjal / pumpkin / milk

    Ingredients

    • 1 cup raw papaya, peeled and cubed
    • 1 medium potato, cubed
    • 1 small brinjal, cubed
    • 1 cup pumpkin, cubed
    • 1/2 cup french beans, cut into 3 cm pieces
    • 1 raw banana, peeled and cubed
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1 1/2 cups water
    • 1 tbsp mustard oil
    • 1/2 tsp panch phoron
    • 4 garlic cloves, crushed
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 1 dry red chilli
    • 1/2 cup milk
    • 1 tsp ghee
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. Put all the vegetables in a pan with turmeric, salt and 1 1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil, then cover and simmer on medium-low for 10-12 minutes until tender.
    2. Lightly mash a few pieces of pumpkin and potato against the side of the pan to thicken the stew, leaving most of the vegetables whole.
    3. Heat the mustard oil in a small pan until it smokes, then lower the heat. Add panch phoron and dry red chilli and let them crackle.
    4. Add the crushed garlic and green chillies and fry until the garlic is light golden, about 1 minute.
    5. Pour the tempering into the vegetables and simmer for 2 minutes.
    6. Lower the heat, stir in the milk and simmer gently for 2-3 minutes without boiling hard. Finish with ghee and serve warm.

    Tips

    • Keep the milk off a rolling boil so it does not split with the vegetables' acidity.
    • Use whatever seasonal vegetables are at hand – ridge gourd, ash gourd and drumstick are all common.
    • For a sick-day version, skip the tempering and just add ghee and a pinch of black pepper.

    Serve with

    Plain rice and a little dal, or with pakhala in summer.

  • Chhena Poda

    Chhena poda, literally 'burnt cheese', comes from Nayagarh district in Odisha, where a confectioner is said to have left sweetened chhena in a cooling wood-fired oven overnight in the 1940s. The result became the state's signature sweet and is also offered to Lord Jagannath. Traditional sweet shops still bake it in sal leaves over wood fire.

    It tastes like a rustic Indian cheesecake. The outside is deep brown, caramelised and slightly chewy, while the inside stays soft, moist and spongy with the milky sweetness of fresh chhena and the warmth of cardamom. A little semolina holds it together. It is served in wedges, warm or at room temperature, and keeps well for a couple of days.

    At a glance

    RegionOdisha
    CuisineOdia
    DietVegetarian
    CourseDessert
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time90 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientschhena / sugar / semolina / cardamom

    Ingredients

    • Chhena from 1.5 litres full-cream milk (about 300 g), drained
    • 1/2 cup sugar
    • 2 tbsp fine semolina (sooji)
    • 1/2 tsp green cardamom powder
    • 1 tbsp ghee plus extra for greasing
    • 1 tbsp chopped cashews
    • 1 tbsp raisins
    • Banana or sal leaves for lining (optional)

    Method

    1. Make chhena by curdling boiled milk with lemon juice, straining it through muslin, rinsing and hanging it for 1 hour so it is well drained.
    2. Crumble the chhena into a bowl and knead with the heel of your palm for 3-4 minutes until fairly smooth.
    3. Add sugar, semolina, cardamom powder and ghee and knead again for 2 minutes. Fold in cashews and raisins. Leave the mixture to rest for 20 minutes so the semolina absorbs moisture.
    4. Preheat the oven to 180 C. Grease a 15 cm round cake tin and line it with banana leaf if using, greased with ghee.
    5. Spread the mixture evenly in the tin and smooth the top.
    6. Bake for 45-50 minutes until the top and sides are deep golden brown and a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean.
    7. Cool in the tin for 30 minutes, then unmould and cut into wedges.

    Tips

    • Without an oven, bake it in a heavy kadhai on a stand with salt underneath, covered, on low heat for about 1 hour.
    • Sprinkle 1 tbsp sugar over the top before baking for a darker caramel crust.
    • Chhena that is too wet makes a soggy centre; squeeze it well before kneading.

    Serve with

    Warm or at room temperature, on its own or after an Odia thali.

  • Pakhala Bhata

    Pakhala bhata is cooked rice soaked in water, sometimes left overnight to ferment lightly, and it is the food Odisha turns to in the blistering summer. The state even celebrates Pakhala Dibasa on 20 March. Farm workers ate it for centuries because it keeps the body hydrated and cool, and it is offered at the Jagannath temple too.

    There are several styles: jeera pakhala with roasted cumin, dahi pakhala with curd and a tempering, and basi pakhala that has fermented overnight and turned pleasantly sour. The rice itself is bland, so it is eaten with strongly flavoured sides – fried fish, badi chura (crushed lentil dumplings with onion and mustard oil), aloo bharta and saga bhaja.

    At a glance

    RegionOdisha
    CuisineOdia
    DietVegetarian
    CourseRice
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time5 minutes
    Total time15 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientscooked rice / curd / curry leaves / ginger

    Ingredients

    For the rice

    • 2 cups cooked rice, cooled
    • 3 cups water, at room temperature or chilled
    • 1/2 cup plain curd, whisked
    • 1 tsp grated ginger
    • 1 green chilli, finely chopped
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1 tbsp chopped coriander
    • A few mint leaves (optional)

    For the tempering

    • 1 tsp mustard oil
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 dry red chilli
    • 8-10 curry leaves

    Method

    1. For basi pakhala, put the cooked rice in a clay or steel pot, cover with water and leave overnight at room temperature. For instant pakhala, simply soak the cooled rice in water for 1-2 hours.
    2. Gently break up any lumps of rice with your fingers so the grains float loosely in the water.
    3. Whisk the curd with salt, ginger and green chilli and stir it into the rice and water.
    4. Heat the mustard oil in a small pan until it smokes, then lower the heat. Add mustard seeds and let them pop, then cumin, red chilli and curry leaves. Fry for 10 seconds.
    5. Pour the tempering over the rice and stir. Add coriander and torn mint leaves.
    6. Rest for 10 minutes so the flavours mingle, then serve in bowls with plenty of the water.

    Tips

    • Overnight fermentation in hot weather can go too sour; in peak summer 6-8 hours is enough.
    • Use a starchy local rice rather than basmati – the grains soften and give the water body.
    • Serve with a squeeze of lime and raw onion if you skip the curd.

    Serve with

    Fried fish or badi chura, aloo bharta and a slice of raw onion.