RAG Demo

Tag: Vegan

  • Vada Pav

    Vada pav was born in the 1960s near Dadar station in Mumbai, when Ashok Vaidya started selling batata vadas inside pav to mill workers who needed something cheap, filling and quick. It became the city's signature street food and an emblem of Mumbai itself, sold at thousands of stalls from early morning to late night.

    The vada is a ball of mashed potato tempered with mustard seeds, curry leaves, plenty of garlic, ginger and green chilli, dipped in a thin besan batter and fried until crisp. It goes into a soft, split pav smeared with red dry garlic chutney and a tangy green chutney. Bits of fried batter, called chura, are often sprinkled inside for extra crunch.

    It is eaten on the go, standing at the stall, with a fried green chilli sprinkled with salt. At home it makes a good monsoon evening snack. The vadas can be made ahead and fried just before eating. The garlic chutney is the soul of the dish, so make a good batch with dry coconut, garlic and red chilli and store it in a jar for weeks.

    At a glance

    RegionMaharashtra
    CuisineMaharashtrian
    DietVegan
    CourseStreet food
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time50 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelHot
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientspotato / besan / pav / garlic

    Ingredients

    For the potato filling

    • 4 medium potatoes (about 500 g), boiled, peeled and coarsely mashed
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 10 curry leaves
    • 8 garlic cloves, 1 inch ginger and 3 green chillies, pounded coarsely
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 1 tsp lemon juice

    For the batter

    • 1 cup (100 g) besan
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1/4 tsp red chilli powder
    • A pinch of baking soda
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • About 3/4 cup water

    To assemble

    • 8 ladi pav
    • Dry garlic chutney (lasun chutney)
    • Green coriander chutney
    • 8 green chillies, slit
    • Oil for deep frying

    Method

    1. Heat oil on medium, crackle the mustard seeds, then add asafoetida, curry leaves and the pounded garlic-ginger-chilli. Saute for 1 minute until the raw garlic smell fades.
    2. Add turmeric, then the mashed potatoes and salt. Mix well for 2 minutes, turn off the heat and stir in coriander and lemon juice. Cool, then shape into 8 balls slightly flattened.
    3. Whisk the besan, turmeric, chilli powder, soda and salt with water into a smooth batter, thinner than pakora batter, that coats a spoon in a thin layer.
    4. Heat oil to medium-hot, about 175 C. Dip each vada in the batter, coat fully and slide into the oil.
    5. Fry 3-4 at a time for 3-4 minutes, turning, until the coating is crisp and light golden. Drain. Drizzle a little leftover batter into the oil to make crunchy chura and drain that too.
    6. Fry the slit green chillies in the same oil for 30 seconds until blistered, then toss with salt.
    7. Slit each pav horizontally without cutting through. Spread green chutney on one side and sprinkle dry garlic chutney generously on the other. Add some chura, place a hot vada inside and press lightly.

    Tips

    • Mash the potatoes by hand, not in a mixer, so the filling has texture and does not turn gluey.
    • A thinner batter gives the thin, crisp shell of the street version; thick batter makes it doughy.
    • Warm the pav on a tawa for a few seconds if it is a day old.

    Serve with

    Fried salted green chillies and cutting chai.

  • Sev Tameta nu Shaak

    Sev tameta nu shaak is a dhaba and home favourite from Kathiawad and Saurashtra, a region where fresh green vegetables were once scarce in the dry months. Tomatoes and the crunchy besan sev that every Gujarati kitchen keeps in a tin were combined into a curry that could be cooked in fifteen minutes. Highway dhabas around Rajkot serve it in large bowls with bajra rotla.

    The base is a thick, tangy tomato gravy with garlic, red chilli and a touch of jaggery that rounds off the acidity. The sev goes in at the very last moment, so part of it stays crunchy while the rest softens and thickens the gravy. Thick ratlami or gathiya sev holds up better than fine nylon sev.

    It is eaten with rotli, thepla or bajra rotla, often with raw onion, buttermilk and a green chilli on the side. Because it relies on pantry items, it is a frequent weeknight dish when the vegetable basket is low. Restaurants in Gujarat often finish it with a spoon of butter and a sprinkle of extra sev on top for crunch.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegan
    CourseMain course
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time15 minutes
    Total time25 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientstomato / besan sev / garlic / jaggery

    Ingredients

    • 4 large ripe tomatoes (about 400 g), chopped
    • 1 cup thick sev (ratlami or gathiya sev)
    • 2 tbsp groundnut oil
    • 1/2 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 6 garlic cloves, crushed
    • 1 tsp grated ginger
    • 1 green chilli, chopped
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1 1/2 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp coriander-cumin powder
    • 1 tbsp grated jaggery
    • 3/4 tsp salt
    • 1/2 cup water
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Heat the oil in a kadhai on medium. Add mustard seeds and let them crackle, then cumin and asafoetida.
    2. Add garlic, ginger and green chilli and saute for 1 minute until the garlic smells cooked and turns pale gold.
    3. Add the tomatoes with turmeric and salt. Cover and cook on medium for 5-6 minutes until they collapse completely.
    4. Mash the tomatoes with the back of the spoon. Add chilli powder, coriander-cumin powder and jaggery and cook uncovered for 2-3 minutes until oil starts to separate at the edges.
    5. Pour in the water, bring to a boil and simmer for 2 minutes. The gravy should be fairly loose, since the sev will absorb a lot.
    6. Turn off the heat. Just before serving, stir in the sev and coriander and serve within a minute or two.

    Tips

    • Add the sev at the table if you are not eating immediately; it turns mushy within ten minutes.
    • Use fully ripe, deep red tomatoes. With pale tomatoes add a spoon more jaggery and a little tomato puree.
    • Groundnut oil gives the authentic Kathiawadi flavour.

    Serve with

    Bajra rotla or rotli, chaas, sliced onion and green chillies.

  • Khaman

    Khaman is the bright yellow, sponge-soft gram flour cake that most people outside Gujarat call dhokla. In Ahmedabad and Surat the distinction is clear: dhokla is fermented rice batter, khaman is besan raised with citric acid and soda. Farsan shops sell it by weight every morning, along with nylon khaman, an even lighter version.

    Good khaman is airy and moist, with an open crumb that drinks up the tempering. That final pour of water, sugar, lemon and tempered mustard seeds is what makes it sweet, sour and juicy rather than dry. It should spring back when pressed and leave the plate slightly wet. Lemon and sugar should both be clearly present.

    It is eaten at breakfast, packed in tiffins and served to guests at any hour, usually with a sweet-hot green chutney and fried green chillies. Because it takes so little time, it is a common answer when visitors arrive unannounced in a Gujarati home. Leftover pieces stay soft for a day if kept covered at room temperature, and they are often packed for school lunch boxes.

    At a glance

    RegionGujarat
    CuisineGujarati
    DietVegan
    CourseSnack
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time35 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsbesan / lemon / sugar / mustard seeds

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 1 1/2 cups (150 g) fine besan
    • 1 tbsp semolina (optional, for structure)
    • 1 tbsp sugar
    • 1 tsp citric acid or 2 tbsp lemon juice
    • 1 tsp ginger-green chilli paste
    • 3/4 tsp salt
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tbsp oil
    • About 3/4 cup water
    • 1 1/2 tsp Eno fruit salt

    For the tempering

    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp sesame seeds
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 3 green chillies, slit
    • 10 curry leaves
    • 1/2 cup water
    • 2 tbsp sugar
    • 1 tbsp lemon juice
    • 2 tbsp grated fresh coconut and chopped coriander

    Method

    1. Put 2 inches of water in a steamer or large pan with a stand and bring it to a rolling boil on high heat. Grease an 8-inch tin.
    2. Sift the besan into a bowl. Add semolina, sugar, citric acid, ginger-chilli paste, salt, turmeric and oil. Whisk in water gradually to a smooth batter that flows like pancake batter, then whisk for 2 minutes more.
    3. Add Eno, pour 1 tsp water over it and whisk briskly in one direction for 10 seconds. The batter will double and turn pale. Pour immediately into the tin.
    4. Steam covered on high for 15-18 minutes without opening the lid for the first 12. A skewer in the centre should come out clean.
    5. Rest the khaman for 5 minutes, then run a knife round the edge and cut into squares while still in the tin.
    6. For the tempering, heat oil, crackle mustard seeds, add sesame, asafoetida, chillies and curry leaves for 20 seconds. Carefully add the water and sugar and boil for 1 minute until the sugar dissolves. Turn off and add lemon juice.
    7. Spoon the hot tempering evenly over the warm khaman so it soaks in. Garnish with coconut and coriander.

    Tips

    • Old besan or a batter left standing after adding Eno gives dense khaman. Work quickly once the Eno goes in.
    • If the top turns reddish, there is too much soda for the acid; add a little more lemon next time.
    • Pour the tempering while the khaman is still warm so it absorbs fully.

    Serve with

    Green chutney, fried salted green chillies and a cup of tea.

  • Mirchi Vada

    Mirchi vada is Jodhpur's other famous fried snack, sold alongside pyaaz kachori at stalls across the old city. Large, thick-walled green chillies, locally called bhavnagri or simply vada mirchi, are slit, stuffed with spiced potato, coated in gram flour batter and fried. The chillies are fleshy and fairly mild, so the heat is a warm background rather than a punch.

    Vendors fry them twice: once to cook the chilli and set the batter, and again just before serving so the crust is shatteringly crisp. The potato filling is sharp with amchur and fennel, which balances the green, slightly bitter flavour of the pepper. Each bite gives crunch, then soft chilli, then the tangy mash.

    They are best eaten hot, during the monsoon, with a cup of strong chai. In Jodhpur the vada is often sliced and stuffed into a pav or served with a sweet tamarind chutney and a sprinkle of chaat masala. Two make a filling snack. Leftovers can be revived in a hot oven for five minutes, though nothing beats one straight from the kadhai.

    At a glance

    RegionRajasthan
    CuisineRajasthani
    DietVegan
    CourseStreet food
    Prep time25 minutes
    Cook time30 minutes
    Total time55 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientslarge green chillies / potato / besan / amchur

    Ingredients

    For the chillies and filling

    • 8 large, thick bhavnagri chillies
    • 3 medium potatoes (about 350 g), boiled and mashed
    • 1 tsp fennel seeds, crushed
    • 1 tsp coriander seeds, crushed
    • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp amchur
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 1 tbsp oil

    For the batter

    • 1 cup (100 g) besan
    • 1 tbsp rice flour
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain
    • A pinch of baking soda
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • About 1/2 cup water

    To fry and finish

    • Oil for deep frying
    • Chaat masala to sprinkle

    Method

    1. Wash and dry the chillies. Make a lengthwise slit in each, leaving the stem and tip intact, and scrape out the seeds with a small spoon.
    2. Heat 1 tbsp oil on medium, add the crushed fennel and coriander for 20 seconds, then add the mashed potato, powdered spices and salt. Mix for 2 minutes and stir in coriander. Cool.
    3. Pack each chilli firmly with filling so it bulges slightly and the slit closes over it.
    4. Whisk besan, rice flour, turmeric, ajwain, soda and salt with water into a thick batter that coats the back of a spoon heavily. Beat for 2 minutes to aerate.
    5. Heat oil to medium-hot, around 170 C. Hold a chilli by the stem, dip it in the batter to coat fully, and lower it into the oil.
    6. Fry 3-4 at a time for 4-5 minutes, turning, until the batter is set and pale gold. Drain and rest for at least 10 minutes.
    7. To serve, heat the oil to hot, about 185 C, and fry the vadas again for 1-2 minutes until deep golden and crisp. Drain and sprinkle chaat masala.

    Tips

    • Choose straight, fat chillies with thick walls; thin chillies blister and split in the oil.
    • The double fry is what keeps the crust crisp for longer. The first fry can be done an hour ahead.
    • If your chillies are hot, soak them in salted water for 15 minutes after deseeding to tame them.

    Serve with

    Sweet tamarind chutney, green chutney and hot masala chai.

  • Pyaaz Kachori

    Pyaaz kachori belongs to Jodhpur, where sweet shops near the clock tower fry them from early morning and sell out before lunch. Unlike the dal kachori of Kota or the hing kachori of Delhi, the filling here is onion cooked down with besan, fennel and crushed coriander until it turns jammy. It is a snack built for travel and for heat, keeping well for a day because the fat in the dough and the dry filling resist going soggy.

    A good one is round, puffed and blistered, with a shell that shatters in thin layers rather than chewing like a puri. Inside, the onions are soft, sweet and sharp with green chilli and dried mango powder. The secret is patience at the stove: the kachoris go into barely warm oil and cook for twenty minutes or more, which is what builds that crackling, layered crust.

    In Rajasthan they are eaten as breakfast or tea-time food, slit open and spooned with saunth (sweet tamarind chutney) and a thin green chutney. At weddings they appear on the snack counter, and many families fry a batch for train journeys. They reheat well in an oven, which makes them practical for guests.

    At a glance

    RegionRajasthan
    CuisineRajasthani
    DietVegan
    CourseSnack
    Prep time40 minutes
    Cook time50 minutes
    Total time90 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyHard
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientsmaida / onion / besan / fennel seeds

    Ingredients

    For the dough

    • 2 cups (250 g) maida
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1/3 cup (70 ml) oil or melted ghee, for moyan
    • About 1/2 cup cold water

    For the filling

    • 3 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tbsp fennel seeds, coarsely crushed
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds, coarsely crushed
    • 1/4 tsp asafoetida
    • 3 large onions (about 400 g), finely chopped
    • 2 green chillies and 1 inch ginger, finely chopped
    • 1 boiled potato, mashed
    • 4 tbsp besan
    • 1 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
    • 1/2 tsp turmeric
    • 1 tsp amchur
    • 1/2 tsp garam masala
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander

    To fry

    • Oil for deep frying

    Method

    1. Rub the oil into the maida and salt with your fingertips for 3-4 minutes, until a fistful pressed together holds its shape like wet sand. This moyan is what makes the shell flaky.
    2. Add cold water a little at a time and bring together into a soft but not sticky dough without kneading hard. Cover with a damp cloth and rest for 30 minutes.
    3. For the filling, heat oil on medium, add cumin, fennel and coriander and let them sizzle for 20 seconds. Add asafoetida, then the onions, ginger and chillies.
    4. Cook the onions on medium for 6-8 minutes until translucent and just turning light gold at the edges, not brown. Lower the heat and add the besan; roast, stirring, for 3-4 minutes until it smells nutty.
    5. Add the powdered spices, salt and mashed potato and mix until the filling holds together in a dry lump. Stir in coriander and cool completely before using.
    6. Divide the dough into 12 balls and the filling into 12 portions. Flatten a ball into a 3-inch disc with thinner edges, place filling in the centre, pleat the edges up and pinch closed. Press gently into a 3-inch round, seam side down.
    7. Heat oil until just warm: a pinch of dough should rise slowly after 3-4 seconds. Slide in 4-5 kachoris and keep the flame at its lowest.
    8. After 8-10 minutes they will float and puff. Flip and keep frying on low, turning occasionally, for another 12-15 minutes until deep golden and crisp all over. Raise the heat for the last minute, then drain on a rack.

    Tips

    • If the oil is too hot, the shell browns fast and stays raw and chewy inside. Low heat for the full time is non-negotiable.
    • The filling must be dry and cold; wet filling steams the dough from inside and causes the kachori to burst in oil.
    • Leave one side slightly thicker when sealing and keep the sealed side down while flattening so it does not open.

    Serve with

    Sweet saunth chutney and green coriander-mint chutney, with masala chai.

  • Punjabi Samosa

    The samosa reached India from Central Asia, carried by traders as the sambosa, and medieval court writers already describe it filled with meat and nuts. The potato version arrived only after the Portuguese brought potatoes to India, and Punjab's halwais made it the large, pyramid-shaped snack sold at every chai stall and sweet shop today.

    A proper Punjabi samosa has a thick, crisp, flaky crust with tiny blisters, flavoured with ajwain. The filling is coarsely mashed potato with peas, ginger, green chilli, crushed coriander seeds, amchur and garam masala, sometimes with a few cashews or raisins. They are eaten hot with green chutney and imli chutney, or crushed into chole for samosa chaat.

    At a glance

    RegionPunjab
    CuisinePunjabi
    DietVegan
    CourseSnack
    Prep time45 minutes
    Cook time40 minutes
    Total time85 minutes
    Serves6
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyMedium
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientsmaida / potato / green peas / ajwain

    Ingredients

    For the pastry

    • 2 cups maida (about 250 g)
    • 1/2 tsp ajwain (carom seeds)
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 5 tbsp oil or ghee (about 60 ml)
    • About 1/2 cup cold water

    For the filling

    • 4 medium potatoes (about 500 g), boiled and peeled
    • 1/2 cup green peas, boiled
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tbsp coriander seeds, coarsely crushed
    • 1 tsp fennel seeds, crushed (optional)
    • 1 tbsp grated ginger
    • 2 green chillies, finely chopped
    • 1 tsp red chilli powder
    • 1 tsp amchur
    • 1 tsp garam masala
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 10 cashews, broken (optional)

    For frying

    • Oil for deep frying

    Method

    1. Mix the maida, ajwain and salt. Add the oil and rub it in with your fingertips for 3-4 minutes until the flour holds its shape when squeezed in a fist.
    2. Add cold water a little at a time and bring together into a stiff, tight dough without kneading too much. Cover and rest for 30 minutes.
    3. For the filling, heat oil and add cumin, crushed coriander and fennel seeds. Fry for 20 seconds, then add ginger and green chillies.
    4. Add the coarsely crumbled potatoes, peas, chilli powder, amchur, garam masala, salt and cashews. Stir for 3-4 minutes on medium heat, lightly mashing. Mix in coriander and let the filling cool completely.
    5. Divide the dough into 6 balls. Roll each into a 15 cm oval about 2 mm thick and cut it in half crosswise.
    6. Wet the straight edge of a half, fold it into a cone, overlapping and pressing the seam firmly. Fill with 2 tbsp filling, leaving space at the top.
    7. Pinch a small pleat at the back, wet the open edges and press them together to seal tightly. Repeat with the rest.
    8. Heat oil to warm, not hot – a piece of dough should rise slowly after a few seconds. Fry the samosas on low heat for 12-15 minutes, then raise the heat to medium for the last 3-4 minutes until golden and crisp. Drain and serve hot.

    Tips

    • Starting in warm oil and frying slowly creates the tiny blisters; hot oil gives large bubbles and a soft crust.
    • Enough fat in the dough (the moyan) is what makes the pastry flaky and short.
    • Let the filling cool fully before shaping, or the steam softens the pastry.

    Serve with

    Green mint-coriander chutney, imli chutney and masala chai.

  • Fara

    Fara is a traditional Chhattisgarhi snack and breakfast that began as a smart way to use leftover rice. The cooked rice is kneaded with rice flour into a soft dough, rolled into long, thin dumplings and steamed, much like a cousin of the south Indian kozhukattai or the Gujarati muthia.

    On their own the steamed faras are soft, chewy and plain. They become a snack once they are tossed in a tempering of mustard seeds, sesame, curry leaves and green chillies, which crisps them slightly at the edges. Some households serve them in a thin, sour curd-based gravy instead. They are eaten warm with chutney and tea.

    At a glance

    RegionChhattisgarh
    CuisineChhattisgarhi
    DietVegan
    CourseSnack
    Prep time20 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time45 minutes
    Serves4
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice flour / cooked rice / sesame seeds / curry leaves

    Ingredients

    For the dough

    • 1 cup cooked rice
    • 1 1/4 cups rice flour
    • 1 cup water
    • 1/2 tsp salt
    • 1 tsp oil

    For the tempering

    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp cumin seeds
    • 1 tbsp white sesame seeds
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 10-12 curry leaves
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 1/2 tsp red chilli powder
    • Salt to taste
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 1 tsp lemon juice

    Method

    1. Bring the water to a boil with salt and oil. Add the cooked rice, mash it with a spoon, then add the rice flour and stir quickly to combine. Turn off the heat, cover and rest for 5 minutes.
    2. When cool enough to handle, knead the mixture with greased hands into a smooth, soft dough.
    3. Pinch off small portions and roll between your palms into finger-thick rolls about 8 cm long, or into small balls.
    4. Arrange them on a greased steamer plate and steam over boiling water for 12-15 minutes until they look slightly glossy and are no longer sticky. Let them cool for 5 minutes.
    5. Heat oil in a wide pan on medium heat. Add mustard seeds and let them pop, then cumin, sesame, asafoetida, curry leaves and green chillies. Fry for 20 seconds until the sesame turns light golden.
    6. Add turmeric and chilli powder, then the steamed faras with a pinch of salt. Toss gently on medium heat for 3-4 minutes until lightly crisp in places.
    7. Finish with coriander and lemon juice and serve warm.

    Tips

    • Knead while the dough is warm; cold rice-flour dough cracks when rolled.
    • Steamed faras keep in the fridge for a day – temper them fresh just before serving.
    • For the curd version, simmer the steamed faras in a thin, tempered buttermilk kadhi for 5 minutes.

    Serve with

    Green chutney or tomato chutney and a cup of tea.

  • Chhattisgarhi Chawal Chila

    Chhattisgarh is called the rice bowl of India, and its kitchens turn rice into dozens of everyday dishes: fara, muthia, angakar roti, dehrori and chila. Chawal chila, the rice pancake, is the quickest of them, made for breakfast or as a light dinner in villages and towns across the state.

    The batter can be made from soaked, ground rice or simply from rice flour mixed with water. It is spread thin on a hot iron tawa, where it sets into a soft pancake with crisp, lacy edges. Chopped onion, green chilli and coriander go into the batter, and it is eaten hot with a sharp tomato or dhaniya-mirchi chutney.

    At a glance

    RegionChhattisgarh
    CuisineChhattisgarhi
    DietVegan
    CourseBreakfast
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time20 minutes
    Total time35 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeYes
    Key ingredientsrice flour / onion / green chilli / coriander

    Ingredients

    For the chila

    • 1 1/2 cups rice flour (or 1 cup rice soaked 4 hours and ground)
    • 1 1/2 cups water, approximately
    • 1 small onion, finely chopped
    • 2 green chillies, finely chopped
    • 1/2 tsp grated ginger
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • 3/4 tsp salt
    • Oil for cooking

    For the tomato chutney

    • 2 tomatoes
    • 2 green chillies
    • 2 garlic cloves
    • 1 tbsp coriander
    • Salt to taste

    Method

    1. For the chutney, roast the tomatoes, chillies and garlic directly over a flame or on a tawa until charred. Peel the tomatoes and crush everything with coriander and salt on a sil-batta or in a mortar.
    2. Whisk the rice flour with water into a smooth, pouring batter, thinner than dosa batter. Rest for 10 minutes.
    3. Stir in the onion, green chillies, ginger, cumin, coriander and salt.
    4. Heat an iron tawa on medium-high heat and grease it lightly with oil using a cut onion or a cloth.
    5. Stir the batter, pour a ladleful from the edges towards the centre, and tilt the tawa to spread it thin. Do not try to spread it with the ladle like a dosa.
    6. Drizzle oil around the edges and cook for 2 minutes until the edges turn crisp and the surface looks dry.
    7. Flip and cook another 1 minute. Serve hot with the tomato chutney.

    Tips

    • Rice flour settles to the bottom quickly; stir the batter before every chila.
    • If the chila sticks, the tawa is not hot enough or needs better seasoning; non-stick pans also work.
    • Add a spoon of curd to the batter for a slightly tangy, softer version.

    Serve with

    Roasted tomato chutney, or green chutney and tea.

  • Indori Poha

    Poha is a breakfast across western and central India, but Indore has made it a civic identity. Street stalls near Sarafa and Chappan Dukan serve it from huge steaming pans from early morning, usually with jalebi on the side. Indore's version is steamed rather than stir-fried, so the flakes stay soft and separate.

    Indori poha is sweeter and more aromatic than Maharashtrian kanda poha. Fennel seeds and a little sugar go into it, and the finishing touches are crucial: a sprinkle of jeeravan masala, a local blend of cumin, black salt, dried mango and other spices, plus thin ratlami sev, chopped onion, pomegranate and coriander. A squeeze of lemon brings it together.

    At a glance

    RegionMadhya Pradesh
    CuisineMalwa
    DietVegan
    CourseBreakfast
    Prep time10 minutes
    Cook time15 minutes
    Total time25 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelMild
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientspoha (flattened rice) / onion / fennel seeds / sev

    Ingredients

    For the poha

    • 2 cups thick poha
    • 1 1/2 tbsp sugar
    • 1 tsp salt
    • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 tsp mustard seeds
    • 1 tsp fennel seeds (saunf)
    • 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
    • A pinch of asafoetida
    • 8 curry leaves
    • 2 green chillies, chopped
    • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
    • 2 tbsp roasted peanuts

    For the topping

    • 1 tsp jeeravan masala
    • 1/2 cup ratlami or nylon sev
    • 1 small onion, finely chopped
    • 3 tbsp pomegranate seeds
    • 2 tbsp chopped coriander
    • Lemon wedges

    Method

    1. Rinse the poha in a colander under running water for 20-30 seconds, tossing gently, until just softened. Drain well and leave for 5 minutes.
    2. Sprinkle sugar, salt and turmeric over the damp poha and fluff with your fingers so it is evenly coloured.
    3. Heat oil in a kadhai on medium heat. Add mustard seeds and let them splutter, then fennel, cumin, asafoetida, curry leaves and green chillies. Fry for 20 seconds.
    4. Add the onion and cook for 2 minutes until translucent but not browned, then add the peanuts.
    5. Add the poha and toss gently to combine. Sprinkle 2 tbsp water over it.
    6. Cover and cook on the lowest heat for 4-5 minutes so the poha steams and turns soft and fluffy. Traditional stalls steam it in a pan set over boiling water.
    7. Serve on plates, topped generously with jeeravan masala, sev, raw onion, pomegranate and coriander, with lemon on the side.

    Tips

    • Do not soak the poha in a bowl – rinsing in a colander keeps the flakes from turning mushy.
    • No jeeravan masala? Mix roasted cumin powder, black salt, amchur, a pinch of black pepper and a little chaat masala.
    • Poha itself is gluten free, but most packaged sev contains wheat or is fried alongside it; check if needed.

    Serve with

    Hot jalebi and a cup of cutting chai.

  • Thukpa

    Thukpa is a Tibetan noodle soup that became everyday food across Sikkim, Darjeeling, Ladakh and Arunachal Pradesh. In Gangtok's small eateries it arrives in a deep bowl with a side of fiery chilli paste, and on a cold, wet evening few things are more welcome. Thenthuk, with hand-pulled flat noodles, is a close cousin.

    The broth is light but deeply savoury, built from garlic, ginger, onion and tomato with a touch of soy sauce, and the noodles and vegetables are cooked in it just before serving. Chicken, pork or egg are common additions; this version uses vegetables. Each person adjusts their bowl with chilli sauce, lime and spring onion.

    At a glance

    RegionSikkim
    CuisineSikkimese
    DietVegan
    CourseSoup
    Prep time15 minutes
    Cook time25 minutes
    Total time40 minutes
    Serves3
    Spice levelMedium
    DifficultyEasy
    Gluten-freeNo
    Key ingredientswheat noodles / cabbage / carrot / tomato / garlic

    Ingredients

    • 150 g flat wheat noodles or egg-free hakka noodles
    • 2 tbsp oil
    • 1 onion, thinly sliced
    • 1 tbsp chopped garlic
    • 1 tbsp chopped ginger
    • 2 green chillies, slit
    • 1 tomato, chopped
    • 1 carrot, cut into thin strips
    • 1 cup cabbage, shredded
    • 1/2 cup french beans, sliced
    • 1/2 cup spinach leaves
    • 1 tbsp soy sauce
    • 1/2 tsp black pepper
    • 1/4 tsp cumin powder
    • 5 cups vegetable stock or water
    • Salt to taste
    • 2 spring onions, chopped
    • Lime wedges
    • Chilli paste to serve

    Method

    1. Cook the noodles in boiling salted water until just tender, 3-4 minutes. Drain, rinse in cold water and divide between bowls.
    2. Heat oil in a deep pan on medium heat. Fry the onion for 3-4 minutes until soft and lightly golden.
    3. Add garlic, ginger and green chillies and fry for 1 minute until fragrant.
    4. Add the tomato and cook for 3 minutes until soft, then add cumin powder and black pepper.
    5. Pour in the stock, add soy sauce and salt, and bring to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes.
    6. Add the carrot and beans and simmer for 3 minutes, then the cabbage for 2 minutes and the spinach for 30 seconds. The vegetables should stay bright and slightly crisp.
    7. Ladle the hot soup and vegetables over the noodles. Top with spring onion and serve with lime and chilli paste.

    Tips

    • Cook noodles separately and add the soup at the table – noodles left in the broth turn soft and starchy.
    • For chicken thukpa, simmer 250 g chicken on the bone in the stock for 25 minutes, shred and return.
    • A few Sichuan peppercorns (timur) crushed into the broth give the authentic tingling note.

    Serve with

    Veg momos and a spoon of red chilli paste.