Shukto is the opening course of a traditional Bengali lunch, served with the first mouthfuls of rice to stimulate the appetite and, by old belief, cleanse the palate. It shows up at weddings, at shraddha meals and on summer afternoons, when its bitterness is thought to cool the body. Every family has its own mix of vegetables and its own balance of bitter and sweet.
The taste is subtle rather than harsh. Bitter gourd sets the tone, while raw banana, sweet potato, drumsticks, brinjal and broad beans add softness and sweetness. The sauce is thickened with a little mustard and poppy seed paste and finished with milk and ghee, and the tempering of radhuni or panch phoron gives it a distinct aroma. Bori, sun-dried lentil dumplings, add crunch.
At a glance
| Region | West Bengal |
|---|---|
| Cuisine | Bengali |
| Diet | Vegetarian |
| Course | Side dish |
| Prep time | 25 minutes |
| Cook time | 30 minutes |
| Total time | 55 minutes |
| Serves | 4 |
| Spice level | Mild |
| Difficulty | Medium |
| Gluten-free | Yes |
| Key ingredients | bitter gourd / raw banana / sweet potato / drumstick / milk |
Ingredients
Vegetables
- 1 small bitter gourd, thinly sliced into rounds
- 1 raw banana, peeled and cut into batons
- 1 small sweet potato, cut into batons
- 1 drumstick, cut into 7 cm pieces
- 1 small brinjal, cut into batons
- 8-10 broad beans (sheem), stringed
- 1/2 cup bori (dried lentil dumplings)
For the paste and sauce
- 1 tbsp yellow mustard seeds
- 1 tbsp poppy seeds
- 1 inch ginger
- 3 tbsp mustard oil
- 1 tbsp ghee
- 1 tsp panch phoron or 1/2 tsp radhuni
- 2 bay leaves
- 1/2 cup milk
- 1 tsp sugar
- 1 cup water
- Salt to taste
Method
- Soak the mustard and poppy seeds in warm water for 20 minutes, then grind with the ginger and a pinch of salt into a smooth paste.
- Heat the mustard oil in a kadhai until smoking, then lower to medium. Fry the bori for 1-2 minutes until golden and remove. In the same oil fry the bitter gourd slices for 3-4 minutes until lightly browned; remove and keep aside.
- Add the ghee to the pan, then the panch phoron and bay leaves. Let them crackle for 15 seconds.
- Add the raw banana, sweet potato, drumstick, brinjal and beans. Stir-fry on medium heat for 5 minutes until the edges lightly colour.
- Add salt and 1 cup water. Cover and cook on low-medium heat for 10-12 minutes until the vegetables are tender but still hold their shape.
- Stir in the mustard-poppy paste, sugar and the fried bitter gourd and bori. Simmer for 3 minutes on low heat.
- Pour in the milk and stir gently. Simmer for another 2-3 minutes until the sauce is creamy and lightly thickened, then finish with a spoon of ghee.
Tips
- Fry the bitter gourd separately and add it at the end so its bitterness stays in check and does not overwhelm the stew.
- Stir gently with a flat spatula; the vegetables should stay in distinct pieces, not turn mushy.
- Radhuni (wild celery seed) gives the most authentic aroma; if unavailable, a pinch of ajwain can stand in.
Serve with
The first course of rice at a Bengali lunch, followed by dal and fish.