Xitti kodi, rice and curry, is the everyday meal of Goa, and the fish curry at its heart is cooked in almost every Goan home. Fresh coconut is ground with Kashmiri chillies, coriander seeds, turmeric, garlic and tamarind into a smooth paste, then simmered with fish such as kingfish, pomfret or mackerel. The result is a vibrant orange curry.
The taste is sour first from tamarind or kokum, followed by the gentle heat of Kashmiri chilli and the creamy sweetness of coconut. Some cooks add a little tirphal, a Sichuan-pepper-like spice, for a citrusy aroma, and others add slit green chillies and onion. The gravy is thin enough to soak into rice.
Goans eat fish curry for lunch nearly every day, usually with red parboiled rice and a fried fish on the side. The curry tastes better reheated. Many Goan families keep a jar of ground masala ready to make the curry quickly on busy days. Mackerel, sardines and prawns are equally popular, depending on what the market offers that morning.
At a glance
| Region | Goa |
|---|---|
| Cuisine | Goan |
| Diet | Non-vegetarian |
| Course | Main course |
| Prep time | 20 minutes |
| Cook time | 20 minutes |
| Total time | 40 minutes |
| Serves | 4 |
| Spice level | Medium |
| Difficulty | Easy |
| Gluten-free | Yes |
| Key ingredients | kingfish / coconut / kashmiri chillies / tamarind |
Ingredients
For the fish
- 500 g kingfish (surmai), cut into steaks
- 1 tsp salt
- 1/2 tsp turmeric
For the masala
- 1 1/2 cups freshly grated coconut
- 8 dried Kashmiri chillies, soaked 15 minutes
- 1 tbsp coriander seeds
- 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
- 1/2 tsp black peppercorns
- 1/2 tsp turmeric
- 5 garlic cloves
- 1 inch ginger
- 1 tbsp tamarind pulp
For the curry
- 2 tbsp coconut oil
- 1 small onion, finely sliced
- 2 green chillies, slit
- 1 tomato, chopped (optional)
- 1 1/2 cups water
- Salt to taste
- 3-4 tirphal (optional)
Method
- Rub the fish with salt and turmeric and set aside for 15 minutes.
- Grind the coconut, soaked chillies, coriander, cumin, peppercorns, turmeric, garlic, ginger and tamarind with about 3/4 cup water to a very smooth paste.
- Heat coconut oil in a wide pan on medium. Add the onion and green chillies and cook for 3-4 minutes until soft and translucent.
- Add the tomato if using and cook for 2 minutes. Add the ground masala and fry for 3-4 minutes until fragrant.
- Pour in the water, add salt and tirphal and bring to a gentle boil. Simmer for 5 minutes.
- Slide in the fish pieces and cook on low for 6-8 minutes without stirring, until the fish is just cooked through. Rest for 10 minutes before serving.
Tips
- Grind the masala very smooth; a grainy paste gives a coarse curry.
- Kashmiri chillies give colour without too much heat; add one spicy Goan chilli if you want more bite.
- Do not boil hard after adding coconut; it can split.
Serve with
Goan red rice, fried fish and a pickle.